How to replace mazda 3 rear brakes 2004-2013 correctly

[@conrad5858]

When I chenged mine rear breake pads on my mazda3 I figured out its also easy used regular wrench & just turn right to piston go inside brake caliper without the special tool if no acces on time. Thanks for posting this videos of how to & another about Mazda 3, very specific and helpful. Have good day

[@s33therfan]

Nice tip , thanks for sharing , and thank you for watching

[@bfitnessjoe]

I am having to do this, just bought a Mazda 3 2007 that came from Minnesota to Texas. I have never seen so much rust on the bottom of a vehicle in my life. It looks like the integrity of the car is still there, but I got blast, grind, sand, brush all that rust away and replace any parts and bolts that look like they will not survive the process. Wish me luck.

[@s33therfan]

Sounds like a great project , keep me updated and best of luck on your project .

[@alexruex7833]

Thanks brother, you made me look like a pro infront of my wife and mother in law.

[@s33therfan]

Thank you for the great feedback , it is much appreciated.

[@soyeldiego4878]

Thanks for posting this video. Helped my son and I replace the rear rotors and pads on his 2013 Mazda 3...

[@s33therfan]

Thank you for the kind words, and great job getting those replaced. I'm glad to hear the video made things easier . Thank you for watching

[@TheMcs33]

What size was that tool to twist calibers in that you use

[@jdh6000]

Wow I feel like a moron. I didn't realize those clips engaged a ring in the caliper piston. It seemed odd to have the pads at such an angle (when I installed wrong). Thanks for teaching me something.

[@s33therfan]

I've been working on cars a while and still make mistakes , it's a part if it. I'm glad the video could help you .Thank you for the feedback and thanks for watching .

[@maxxhenry747]

I replaced these once already and thought I had it this time and completely forgot those clips engaged!

[@augustinsrc]

Okay so there is a trick around the special tool! This sounds dumb, but after getting the caliper off, pump the brakes a few times to send the piston out… it makes it easier to turn. Then screw the bottom of the caliper into the top of the mount to hold it there and brace it with a piece of wood between the back of the caliper and the front of the shock. This will hold the caliper still while you man handle it! Now get a strong pair of needle nose pliers, and place them in the two holes on the front of the piston and twist to the left until it starts to move( it moves easier to the left). Now, with all your strength and hand and eye coordination, put your knee on the ground and lean into it while turning the piston clockwise (to the right) and keep and much pressure on it as you twist as possible. Keep going until it’s really far in. Like until you are completely sure it’s in far enough because it takes a while to undo all the bracing you did an hour ago. Plus you are probably working tomorrow morning and don’t have a back up car….. so stay motivated. It might be tough to get things moving but if you are determined and strong, it will work with pliers! And don’t bleed any fluid out, it doesn’t help at all. Just take the cap off the fluid reservoir. I tried bleeding some fluid off and now I have air in the line because, like me, you are probably doing this by yourself! So please don’t do that to yourself. I finished at 12am last night and drove it home. I’m going to find someone to help me bleed the later. Best of luck to you all!!!!

[@digdrewzter]

This was very helpful. I got the tool and it didn't fit in the piston, so I used needle nose pliers, then I still couldn't get it all to fit back on the rotor. The drill trick saved the day and I got the pistons all the way in. 1 comment about the videography - the shakiness makes me motion sick.

[@s33therfan]

Thank you for the feedback I appreciate it and thanks for watching.

[@graysonsheridan1593]

Agreed... some of the most important things he is trying to show are either blurry or shaky. It is a 7 minute video. Find some extra hands for 10 minutes for those parts.

[@wayneboydston7615]

If you back off the handbrake adjustment ant disconnect the cables the job is so much easier, hot tip from a real mechanic

[@flingturd5395]

geat vid, thanks for making it easy. i got stumped a year ago with the spring under the rim. did it right this time

[@s33therfan]

Thank you for the kind words and thanks for watching

[@luiszelaya6299]

Thank you so much for your video. Damn Mazdas are so different to other Japanese brands...

[@s33therfan]

Thank very much for the feedback and thanks for watching

[@azarahwagner2749]

Mazda as far as I know are all Made in Japan as Toyota and Honda have production plants in North America.

[@lard1892]

@@azarahwagner2749 Most Mazda's are made in US with mostly Ford parts

[@jstepp1025911]

People like you are an asset to society. keep on keeping on man

[@s33therfan]

Thank you very much for the feedback , and thanks for watching .

[@MikesFitnessGoals]

Excellent video, I appreciate all your details included as you proceed.

[@s33therfan]

Thank you for the amazing feedback , much appreciated.

[@mattlyon4522]

Instead of pushing the brake fluid back into the reservoir you should open the bleeder to let the fluid escape. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) so it is a good idea to flush some through anyways.

[@s33therfan]

Very good information , thank you sir

[@Mechanicsville804]

You absolutely should not do that unless you want to bleed the entire brakes system.

[@augustinsrc]

@@Mechanicsville804agreed!

[@aztek2059]

Great job! Thanks a lot for all the details! It helped me a lot to replace my rear breaks and rotors.

[@s33therfan]

Thank you for the great feedback and for watching hope all goes smoothly .

[@pabloyarzon6208]

Thanks for the great video , very well explained. Cheers from Canada

[@s33therfan]

Thank you very much for the great feedback , much appreciated.

[@harpoon_bakery162]

on the rear passenger side, how did you get the caliper off without the emergency brake and brake fluid hoses pulling too tight? the caliper is at the rear and yanking it off pulls on those two lines really badly. I'm afraid they are going to give way

[@davidarabian8883]

Thanks for the great video. Great tip about boring out the holes on the piston; I tried to do this job today and just could not get any purchase on the piston with the tool. I will definitely have to bore those holes out. Why would manufacturers decide to use this PITA design vs the piston you can compress with a c-clamp?!

[@s33therfan]

Thank you for feedback I appreciate it , I'm glad the video could help you out . Thank you for watching

[@daveblack7344]

Thanks for a great tutorial, followed it to the T...you did a great job, thanks

[@s33therfan]

Thank you for the great feedback I appreciate it . Thank you for watching.

[@markb216]

Thanks for posting, the video was very helpful.

[@s33therfan]

I'm glad the video could help out , and thank you for the feedback and thanks for watching

[@jonathangaliano2617]

I know this is an old video.. but is the rear brake setup of this car and a 2009 Mazda 5 exactly the same? Reading conflicting information. Some people say they are 100% the same parts and everything.. some say they are the same but just smaller.

[@s33therfan]

As far as I know they are the same pads. The caliper itself may be different but it is pretty close to being the same. Hope this helps.

[@davedave2109]

I have a 2012 Mazda 3. The pads I took off didn't have any clips on the inner piston pad? The new pads didn't come with any clips? The service manual doesn't show these clips anywhere ? Is this something that ended before 2009- 2013 model ???

[@scottmenser9731]

I’m very new to working on my own car and know whatever KZbin taught me. Thank you for this video, but I’ve run in to an early problem. What can I do if the bolts you were removing at around 2:20 won’t come all the way out? They loosen easily and keep turning the proper direction but will not come out all the way for some reason, frustrating, thanks for all of your help!

[@s33therfan]

Its just a slide pin and sometimes they stick into the part of the caliper it slides in. You can see the pin coming through and how it tightens into the caliper bracket there. Take a screw driver and push where the threads are lightly until it pushes out enough to get a hand on it . Once loosened all the way the pins should push out . Hope this helps and thanks for watching

[@s33therfan]

I will also add the brake piston tool is a must on compressing these stubborn pistons . Also using the 1/4 " drill to slightly reem the holes seems the only way to get the tool to work on these years unless using an oem mazda piston tool. Thanks again

[@scottmenser9731]

Great! Thank you, I’ll try that!

[@AreaThirteenThirteen]

Just wondering if you had problems getting the wheels off after the lugnuts were removed because I literally had to pry them off with a crowbar because the wheel was very tight to the center hub and not even rusted too bad lol..

[@s33therfan]

I have had this issue a lot with different cars over the years. Everytime you remove them they are stuck. I usually use my 3lb shot filled ( harbor freight special) orange mallet to get them to submit. Anyways thanks for the feedback , much appreciated.

[@thesource8741]

Thank you for video Canniot get piston to compress with tool Seaized caliper ?

[@s33therfan]

They can seize , mine was pretty stubborn . I about thought I wasn't going to get it to compress . I used wd40 and kept working with it , with my tool and a small cheater pipe. I don't know why some of these are so stubborn but it seems to be quite common . Hope you get it and thank you for watching .

[@thesource8741]

@@s33therfan went and got a new caliper figuring just change it. Cold not loosen brake line or figure e brake cable. Gave in and just took to gagrage The driver rear inside pad was down to metal on metal Passenger rear inside pad had lots of pad left...gotta be fried calipef

[@s33therfan]

Yes that's quite a failure definitely not much you could have done with that , glad you have it fixed now . Thank you again for watching

[@matrodmedia]

I’m just changing the rotors on mine, but The little springs on the back of the inner pads broke into little pieces at some point. Are they 1000% necessary to have on there? The pads are like 6 months old so I was hoping to keep them

[@matrodmedia]

Nevermind I just went and bought new pads just to be safe

[@s33therfan]

Sorry for the late reply but you did make the right choice . Another great reason is that since you put on the new rotors , you will be starting with new pads which is also important. Thank you for watching

[@benjarvis2530]

What are the springs made for? My friend did my brakes and threw them away and now my brakes make noise, just wondering if I need to get them put back on or not

[@s33therfan]

The difference usually is not that significant but it could cause some rattle. Its possible it may be the type of brake pads . I try to stick with ceramic only . Thanks for watching

[@benjarvis2530]

s33therfan thank you, I’m just going to get them from somewhere and put them on just cause

[@FlowtnWitWalden]

you say "7mm" but forgot to mention that they're "hex keys." For those wondering... 7mm hex key - not a bolt/nut.

[@hosshandles]

Got me too bro

[@MagiqProductionsV2]

So theres no need to put grease on the back of the brake pads to stop noise? Since there are those clips on the back?

[@s33therfan]

I usually don't put grease on the backs but I do put a small amount on the points that go into the slides. Thanks for watching

[@aplayahobo]

Does the car have to be turned on ,to compress the caliper back in?

[@s33therfan]

No it does not . Thank you for watching.

[@aplayahobo]

Ok thanks

[@Michael-yv4uh]

When I did mine the parking park wouldn't work or hold after a normal pad change.

[@s33therfan]

Try turning the piston back and forth. If that doesn't free it up the caliper may need replaced. I would suggest checking the cable arm , but if it was working prior , that wouldn't be the issue. Thanks for the feedback.

[@Firenine]

Thanks for the video. Can you use needle nose pliers to screw in the pistons or is the tool a must?

[@s33therfan]

+Firenine yes the tool is really a must you can rent it from autozone with a deposit , don't remember the price but wasn't much . You can do it with needle nose , but it's more trouble than its worth. With needle nose you have to twist and push inward keeping pressure at the same time. Depending on how stubborn the piston is it may not even be possible . I probably mentioned it in the vidoe but when you do your brakes make sure that piston is pushed all the way in as far as it goes, it just makes it way easier to install. They sell the tool on ebay for less than 20 dollars in some cases. Seeing how common these brakes are I'm probably going to just get a tool myself . Hope this has been helpful and thank you for watching

[@tedgallo740]

Does the tool have a name? I’ve been to three places looking for it and they act like I’m nuts

[@graysonsheridan1593]

@@tedgallo740 The tool description and # is at :35 of the video.

[@royquesada5295]

Dirt and rust are probably not going to let pads slide evenly and also the dirt and rust on backing of caliper and piston will probably cause squeaking. Please people clean all contact points.

[@rudilam6405]

What brake pads brand do you use? Looks very high quality and they have spring clip at the back of the pads.

[@s33therfan]

I can't remember the brand a lot of times I either go to the parts store and grab some decent ones . I've ordered some from ebay and remember getting some raybestos . But the oem had the springs on mine so I'd definitely try to find some with the spring clips . I know if the parts stores don't have the ones like oem that they have all sorts of brands on ebay , and seems like any of the ceramic do really well. Thanks for watching

[@rudilam6405]

@@s33therfan im searching on ebay for Raybestos is only available in US, there is nothing even the similar ones in Australia, anyway, thanks for the info.

[@s33therfan]

I didn't realize the availability difference across different countries , I also have used nakamoto brand they have done well and have the clips . Anyways hope you can find some good ones , wish I could be more help and thanks again

[@alianbaba9330]

Is Mazda 5 in same year. Same type of brakes

[@s33therfan]

Yes , and I believe even the pads are identical . But yes these will all have the screw in type rear caliper , because it serves as park brake as well as rear braking . There may be a slight variance on the piston on the caliper but either way you will need the rear caliper tool which you can get from auto zone as a loan a tool and cost nothing once returned . Sometimes they can be pretty stubborn to twist so have some wd40 on hand just in case. Also make sure and grease those slides up while you're in there . This mazda 3 was an 05 , I guess mazda 5 started in 06 but from 06 to 2010 would be the same caliper and pads as mazda 3 I believe. Hope this has been helpful and Thank you for watching

[@tewydelossantos3950]

What brand and part number are those brakes?

[@s33therfan]

These are basically the same. Thanks for watching. amzn.to/3DhK2Ma

[@Crimson_Hawk_01]

You don't need a special tool. A good ok fashioned C clamp and one old brake she is perfect. Been doing the job for me for 30 years.

[@NarwhalGamingTV]

These calipers unfortunately need to be compressed and turned at the same time. Had to learn that the hard way on my speed3. Tried c-clamp, pliers to turn it, didn't work. The tool is a must

[@yotasinthewild]

@@NarwhalGamingTV did you break anything by using the c-clamp?

[@NarwhalGamingTV]

@@yotasinthewild no, it's a bit hard to put enough force on it to break anything. Wouldn't recommend it either way lol

[@imbrok3n882]

Every time I step on the the brake pedal my car farts

[@thecommonsenseconservative5576]

And this is why I love my Lexus. Wife has this car though. Does anyone get a weird sound when reversing and tapping the brakes. Only does it when it is humid out

[@s33therfan]

I would change the pads first. If all is good with them I would try and determine which caliper may be at fault. It could be many things. Best of luck on solving this issue. These Mazda 3's are really great cars. Thank you for watching.

[@ebarcoutdoors]

What happens when the caliper piston spins but don’t compress back into the caliper

[@s33therfan]

The tool is supposed to force it back in as it spins. Try some wd40 and keep working it , if it cannot be twisted back in then it unfortunately may need to be replaced. Thanks for watching.

[@stevendhanjal3679]

Mighty fine video.

[@s33therfan]

Thank you for the great feedback and thanks for watching

[@katienewcombebasker158]

the springs on mine only come out on one end?

[@s33therfan]

I'm not sure if I understand , but the spring clips on the pads only slide under the piston one side . If the spring for the caliper itself isn't coming loose but one side it's stuck. Thanks for watching

[@joysilva777]

Hi. Can you please explain why my traction control is acting up (engaging & light on while driving on the road in good driving conditions) and there is a clicking/something loose sound in my rear tires now that I've just had my rear brakes changed on my 2013 Mazda 3.

[@s33therfan]

+JB Silva Was the abs and traction control light on before the brake pads were changed ? Another thing you could do is take it to auto zone or other parts store and have them read the codes( free of charge) , they are not always 100 percent accurate but can help give an idea of what to focus on .

[@joysilva777]

No. I've had no problem before the brake change. The guy who fixed my brakes went back under and told me he didn't know how the stabilizer bar got loose. How could the stabilizer bar suddenly get loose? He tightened it back up and everything is back to normal now. And BTW thank you for your reply.

[@s33therfan]

+Joy Silva Either it wasn't torqued properly or something settled on the bushing . Seems unlikely with the year of your mazda it would be worn out but a possibility. Those shouldn't have much movement . Either way it would definitely be something to keep an eye on , could be the mechanic torqued it properly and it won't give any further problems. I hope this has been helpful . If you like my videos I invite you to like and subscribe if you haven't and thanks again for watching

[@joysilva777]

So this is something that he would of had to touch while changing my breaks? I was thinking of getting it inspected at my Mazda dealer. Never had any issue with it before that break job. I watched your video and didn't see that you had to do anything to the stabilizer bar while changing the brakes. And I did like and subscribe :-)

[@s33therfan]

+Joy Silva no no one should have touched the stabilizer , it's possible they didn't torque it properly at factory or it could be worn but being worn seems unlikely . Dealers can be really pricey but I'd agree with a second opinion . Another bit of advice when taking it to be inspected be skeptical . I'm not saying all but some will try to up sale and have you replacing alot of unecessary parts . That's been my experience so I know first hand . However there are some really good shops too , so I'd say a second opinion would be a good idea in the future. Thank you for the subscribe and again for watching .

[@dontpanicmorty]

Hi, s33therfan! What type and size air compressor did you use to power your impact wrench? I'd like to invest in one and want to make sure I have the proper CFM and PSI to power my tools.

[@s33therfan]

The one I have is a 20 year old bostitch 6 gallon 2.5 cfm compressor I bought for my nailers framers trim etc . I'm basically using it until it breaks ha. I'd recommend one with a 5 cfm and above the tanks size can range from say 15 to 30 gallon. I've had good luck with my Lowes compressor so probably will go with another in the 30 gallon range from lowes . If one wanted to power the heavy impacts with 2000 lb torque like for big trucks tractors they'd need a 15 cfm and at least 60 gallon tank I'd imagine. I'd like to get a 80 gallon and never worry but the size of them and lack of being able to move it easily turns me against those . So yes a 30 gallon 5 cfm and above , and I'd go with a Lowes brand they seem pretty good for the price. Main thing for me is being able to move mine around easily. Another thing I'd mention is the style you'll see those with belt driven compressor and those without . Now if you want something a little quieter a belt driven will be your best bet . The components I believe are easier to find and replace from what I've heard. I will definitely go with the belt driven style my next compressor . All that being said you definitely will not regret getting a compressor , my shoulders simply can't stand up to the struggling with bolts anymore , so I absolutely love my impacts . I'd also say for 99 percent of the automotive I work on I don't have issue removing anything even with my way undersized compressor . Hope this has been helpful and thank you watching

[@rareform6747]

One of my calipers on rear will not go in even with the bleeder open ?

[@s33therfan]

Try pulling the rubber boot back and spraying it with penetrating fluid , and let it soak. It's common for those to be stuck . After a bit take small cheater pipe for leverage for the piston tool . I had one that was stubborn every inch of the way but the pb blaster helped . If everything fails it may need replaced , but I'd try that first . Hope this helps and thanks for watching

[@rareform6747]

@@s33therfan thanks but it did turn but not inward ? Just tossed out with new ???

[@s33therfan]

I would probably take it out and work with it on the bench first ; those calipers are somewhat pricey . Since you have it turning you may be able to apply enough pressure/force with the tool by continuing to tighten it as you rotate the tool . It may be fully extended and hasn't grabbed just yet. Would be worth a shot I've had a few and they were brutal the didn't want to turn press in or anything but finally got enough force on it. Yours may be more severe though and I'd just say give it another attempt , you pretty much have nothing to lose at this point . I wish you luck on it and thanks again

[@DB-um1ij]

Thank you sir.

[@s33therfan]

Thanks for the feedback if you like the video please like and subscribe if you haven't already thank you again for watching

[@MuaadElSharif]

The piston fell out of the rubber housing, what should I do?

[@s33therfan]

If the whole piston came out you'd need to replace it . If it's just the rubber that peeled off then I wouldn't worry about it . Half the ones I've replaced the brakes have either the rubber ripped . Now that's as long as the piston is still functional . Ideally it would be good not having it ripped but it will still work but just wear out prematurely from lack of that rubber boot . Hope this helps thanks for watching

[@nickblets69]

@@s33therfan my piston came out because i was turning it counter clockwise. I just spun it back on clockwise by hand and then with a clamp and adjustable pliers. Went in all the way and now works well without any leaks.

[@SuperJaski]

Where Did you purchase the tool to push back the brake piston

[@s33therfan]

I went to auto zone and got their brake caliper too part # 27111. It's a loaner tool $60 deposit you get back in full if returned within 90 days I believe. Here's a cheap one on ebay if a auto zone isn't nearby . rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132410376501 Here's more expensive but a master kit and better option in my opinion. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142716676342 Either one will get the job done but a lot of these tools that I don't use a lot it's just more convenient and cheaper to get a loaner tool . Just saves having buy special tools for everything . I'm usually in there getting parts and supplies etc anyways. I will also warn you ahead of time those pistons really like to stick sometimes I like to spray them with wd 40 or something and sometimes have to use a little cheater bar to crank down on the little caliper tool handle to get it to move . But don't worry it will move just sometimes they can be stubborn . Hope this has been helpful and thank you for watching

[@Graham_Langley]

+s33thefan I'd add that you'll need one that has pins at 19mm centres - some DIY tools like your eBay example only do 23 and 33mm. I only found this out after removing the pads but fortunately it was possible to knock out the pins and drill two new holes at 19mm centres.

[@s33therfan]

That's a very good point , I'm not sure if it's too easy to find one that fits these particular years without getting a dealer tool I've only used the loaner but that's a clever idea just to modify it . I ran into the same issue and went the other route and reamed the piston out slightly with a 1/4 I believe , it didn't take a lot. I know some mazda are using a u shaped slot on the outer part of the piston , seems to be a better design and gives a little more play for the tool fitting . Thanks for sharing the information

[@Graham_Langley]

+ss33thefab There was a bit of swearing but the solution was obvious. Having a decent pillar drill helped. With the tool now in front of me, what I did was drill, counterbore and tap for a couple 12mm M4 socket-head screws to give a bit of leeway in the accuracy of my marking out.

[@ericrollins4607]

What symptoms would the car have if the brake pad on the piston side wasn't correctly slid under the lip you're talking about @5:30?

[@s33therfan]

+Eric Rollins they are anti rattle clips so you could get some chattering noise. The ones on my car there had been installed wrong previously but weren't making any noise . However they won't sit flat on the piston. Hope this helps and thanks for watching

[@this_time_imperfect]

"Tookin"

[@glennrichards9448]

perfect video very helpful

[@s33therfan]

Thank you very much for the feedback and thanks for watching

[@mab6751]

serais le fun fun que tu vas plus loin ou finisse les decouverte trop bon quand tu les fais mais apres cela plus rien

[@bjhachannel6747]

back video

[@terryjackson9055]

please get a tripod or have a camera person do the video for you.

[@setonas23]

Now i know why it's ticking...

[@s33therfan]

Best of luck on your project and thanks for watching

[@garysmart1]

is this a mazda3 hatchback?

[@s33therfan]

This is not a hatchback it's a mazda 3s 2.3l , however my mazda 3i 2.0l had the same brakes . Hope this helps if you like the video please like and subscribe

[@1silvervespa]

Japanese Cars Metric Sockets.....

[@mab6751]

trop jeune. lol mais les secret ou teno ds les trop arrrrgg lol

[@mab6751]

tapperre surtout et oui. snnneesss.

[@mxta1374]

Too much talking