How to Replace Rear Shocks 08-16 Chrysler Town & Country

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Shock absorbers help your vehicle stay stable and safe. Signs of worn out shocks are knocking or bumping noises, loose handling, or a bouncy or bumpy ride. The typical service life of a shock absorber is 50,000 miles, depending on conditions. TRQ shocks and struts are engineered to fit your vehicle perfectly. This video shows you how to install shock absorbers on your 2008-16
• Check here for more videos on the 2008-16 Chrysler Town & Country • Chrysler Town & Countr...
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2008 Chrysler Town & Country
2009 Chrysler Town & Country
2010 Chrysler Town & Country
2011 Chrysler Town & Country
2012 Chrysler Town & Country
2013 Chrysler Town & Country
2014 Chrysler Town & Country
2015 Chrysler Town & Country
2016 Chrysler Town & Country
Tools you will need:
• 18mm Wrench
• 16mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 18mm Socket 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• 3/8 Inch Air Impact Gun
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Rust Penetrant
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
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Chrysler Town & Country 2008-16 5th Gen: • Chrysler Town & Countr...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[@TRQ]

√ *Watch the Video* √ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts √ *Do it Yourself* √ *Save Money*

[@benmagie6260]

So how bad is it if I did all this, but forgot to "charge" the shock absorbers first?

[@mattconnor6779]

Again with the "VEER-icle"! You're killing me!

[@DRock558]

Dude it made me cringe every time. 😬

[@fox1110]

Lol

[@godfrey_of_america]

Nice to have a lift and an impact wrench.

[@andrewdelapp]

I was able to squeeze my 18 mm open end wrench in from the front on both sides on the top bolts and not take out the 4 bolts which many people complain about breaking. It’s not easy but it’s worth it versus breaking bolts.

[@Dave-jc6ky]

What was the torque for the 4 mount bolts? Thanks!

[@stevenb320]

Beware if you remove the upper mount the bolts Snap due to crap designing

[@jrjohn77]

Yeah, for the life of me, I cannot get that bottom bolts to break free. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one struggling.

[@BassManStrikes]

Ya , i did this today. You dont need to remove the top mount on passenger side, you can get a combination wrench in there.

[@billyoung8118]

Thank you for this video. My dad asked me to come up to his house to replace the rear shocks on his wife's 2009 Town & Country. Always nice to see what I'm up against before starting a job. This one doesn't look like it is that big of a deal.

[@FleetTech97]

I’m a mechanic that dies this for a living and I still watch videos of jobs before I do them if I have time. Always good to know what to expect

[@ChameleonClouds]

I always watch your videos before beginning. Thanks again!

[@sailr]

nice to see a super easy repair!!

[@andrew7629]

Those swivel impact sockets are nice.

[@alwarkentin6095]

Excellent video my man! I wanted to watch before attempting this job as I am new to working on my own vehicles. Thanks a bunch TRQ!

[@TRQ]

+Al Warkentin Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ

[@adamtedder1012]

ive been doing it for a long time and I still watch videos before I tackle a new task.

[@OutWalkingIowa]

Do NOT take the bracket off!! Buy an S-type wrench at harbor freight. It squeezes around those lines with ease. Taking that bracket off will almost always result in broken bolts and having to drill them out and buy new bolts from Mopar.... no fun!!!

[@easternshoreblinds9477]

You can use a stubby 18mm wrench instead of removing the bracket. Fyi

[@pthomaswa]

Thanks! Stubby wrench worked great. I read you are supposed to torque down everything once the weight of the vehicle is on the suspension as well. You need to be able to tighten those bolts with the bracket on the car.

[@bozobergfun4340]

Exactly what I needed thank you!

[@KevinMLloyd]

Exactly what I needed

[@TRQ]

+Kevin M. Lloyd Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ

[@justinrivera2072]

Definitely pulling the bracket to put it back in it was a pain to get off with the line in the way

[@vincent7364]

Do you really have push the shock up and down that many times and why ?

[@USER_AE86]

Just got yourself a new subscriber

[@TRQ]

+___꒤ꇙꏂꋪ___ Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ

[@thewillmercer]

Bolts are 18mm. 55 lb/ft torque

[@jhonnyblossom3034]

Thank you" exelent video !!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍✌

[@smokeskull]

Charging the shock sounds like a journeyman was pranking you..wouldn't it charge itself once it's installed?

[@bozodog428]

Thanks!

[@kevinzimmerman557]

Anybody know if those bolts on that upper bracket have a torque spec

[@jm100368]

trying to figure out if the rear shock absorbers need to be replaced. should i be able to grab the top half of the shock absorber and easily twist it left and right with my hand. how tight should the rubber bushing be? (play in the rubber bushing itself)

[@saulcruz2483]

i had mine replaced but seems like its lower in the back...any idea why this happened?

[@joehess5481]

Check if you have load leveling shocks from factory. Replacing with a standard shock will make the rear sag

[@leetnessgaming9751]

Can anyone tell me the type of locking pliers he used for the nut attached to the bar link?

[@michaelmcallister3462]

I removed my rear shock from our 2010 Town and Country and there were bushings on the shocks at the mounting bolts, and they are rotted so I can't try to reuse them. Are they not necessary I don't think I saw them on the ones you installed on your video?

[@melissamatthieu4858]

are those load-leveling? judging by the diameter they seem to be

[@MrRGM10]

I'm planning to buy set TRQs. My t&Country 2013 has nivomat stock can I use non nivomat and change all 4 of then? Hard to find nivomat and quite expensive?

[@TRQ]

+@MrRGM10 The parts would have to be able to work for Nivomat suspension or be a conversion kit to work.

[@stevenb320]

Another chrysler Crap Design for the rear shock upper mount bolts.... Why didn't they weld the nut on the upper mount like a smart designer... Then you don't have to fight to get to the nut with the hoses in the way or drop the entire bracket.

[@fjcarterfc]

Love the videos but hate the word “veeracle” never heard the word vehicle said that way

[@jbossnack]

I just replaced my minivans rear shocks. I just have a jack and stands so it wasn't fun laying on the ground but it's done. Took for a test drive and still have the clunking in the rear. Unsure what it could be. A bushing in the trailing arm or worse a broken coil spring. You have any advice on what to look for clunking in rear if shocks have been replaced? I don't see anything loose back there.

[@ECelisa]

I have the same issue- did you get it resolved?

[@Snackwog]

When I went to remove the first of the four bolts holding the bracket it sheared right off at the head. Now I've got that problem and I'm reluctant to move forward with any of the others. Anyone else attempting this, be warned.

[@KevinSun242]

On another guy's video, he said one of the bolts just snapped in half when he tried to remove it.... sounds like a real quality problem...

[@evansalibi8023]

Just had the same problem with mine...

[@armoricain]

@@mronemanband1 I did the same on my wife's Town & Country... one of the screws was really hard to remove, so I took my sweet little time by loosening it a little and tightening it back a little, and bit by bit it got to a point where I could finally feel it was fine to loosen it the regular way the rest of the way, and all this by hand.

[@mgherter]

Yeah, same here, 2 of snapped clean off. They sit vertically right by the wheel well, so there's a lot of opportunity for salt and water to just hang out. An easy-out did it but I was not loving it. I replaced every fastener (8x M10s into the frame and 4x M12s through the shocks) which cost as much as the shock absorbers. Mine is an 08 so if I am back there doing shock absorbers again something has gone really wrong...I don't plan to drive this vehicle another 100k miles (175k on her now) but who knows?

[@PaulDo22]

All of this snapping of bolts is only due to the mistaken idea that the nut behind the bracket is unreachable. The nut is very reachable. Just get an 18mm "S" wrench from Harbor Freight and get underneath the bracket with a light where you can see the nut to secure with the S wrench. Now place a metal rod of about 1 foot through the 17mm opposite end of the wrench, which will create a perpendicular handlebar so you can hold it steady before the next step. You'll need a second guy to loosen the bolt from above with a breaker bar or ratchet with cheater bar. Make sure to liberally apply rust penetrant and allows it to soak the bolt and nut. Also get the bolt to rotate a bit with an impact wrench before you apply the penetrant so it creates some space to work it in.

[@nmoran2046]

Am I the only one who didn’t get to see the end of the video went to commercials and then that’s it I don’t know if I take my vehicle to your shop you don’t finish the job

[@jmack619]

watch part 2

[@SunshineStateofMind1981]

You da man.