How to replace rotten decking

Remove rotten deck board and replace.
How to use a ratchet and socket set:
• How to use a ratchet a...

[@18betz]

Thanks for the great vid. I especially appreciate the "lets keep it real" concept. (not replacing what is still ok) Lumber is expensive...lets not get nuts! The tip on screwing in very long boards that may have a bit of a warp was brilliant! Thank you.

[@wdaub]

This is a great video. I view this video almost one year ago and went back to it because I'm starting work on another deck. If your don't do this type of work every day it reminds you of things, like using spacers. One of things I did was buy a power miter saw. It cost $100 but now all of my cuts are straight and square. I would strongly recommend it.

[@JohnDoe-mp1zk]

just a tip to other folks that don't use a saw that much or at all. Make sure the board you are cutting on deck is up high enough from the one just behind it. I accidently cut the board just behind the cut board when pulling back on the skill saw. Duh! No to bad and thankfully expectations were not high. Hope that saves someone else who's expectations are higher or not using semi/solid stain afterwards. The video really helped a lot and thanks for making.

[@lisahind8858]

Thanks for this informative and easy-going video. I am only replacing a couple 2x4s fortunately.

[@evajeca]

Thank you so much for this video. It is the BEST and most helpful video that I have seen so far for replacing rotten deck boards.

[@danjoe22]

nice job, great vid, lots of tips. Were those boards pressure treated? That deck sure is a mess, and blue!!

[@praticalorigami]

Thank you for this video. I figured it was this easy but I wanted to see it. Thanks again.

[@smokymountainlife]

Thank you for the video. It's exactly what I needed to learn to do on my deck.

[@alisonbliss961]

The extra step of pre-drilling would've prevented all of those boards from cracking at the edges.

[@chastainmills6140]

Most pros including myself do pre drill. Even if it doesn't split when putting in the screws, you're giving the board extra stress without drilling. You can take away a lot of the boards strength without pre drilled holes. And you could always split the board from the inside which can trap water over time and cause it to rot a lot faster.

[@samsen3965]

Good job. But two things: 1- Any reason why you haven't painted the new wood, before installation, when you could easily and completely paint all surfaces for better element protection? 2- Don't you find deck screw a huge pain in a body part, next time that you have to do the repair and the screws are rusty rotten? I have had crowbar bending out of shape due to this problem along, where nails always come out easy (Giving the same easy to be lifted every now and then in Spring, after a melt of snow and wood contraction). Despite nail securing less, I prefer them for this exact reason. What do you think?

[@robertc9594]

Fantastic video. I learned a lot. I need to do replacement, many boards.

[@noahhurley-abelew6536]

Glad to know it's as simple as it seems!

[@jansen_music]

Saved my lots of time. THANK YOU!

[@backyardmech]

Feel free to make a better video Keith - let me know when you've uploaded it :)

[@huaching876]

do you have more update videos? you are really good!

[@backyardmech]

No problem Jevchance .

[@newzone1975]

well done !!!! good tip !!!!

[@elirich3145]

That’s why deck screws are better than nails.

[@gilbertojones6788]

his tools are rustier then the rotten deck.... lol

[@brockr4537]

deck boards are so cheap, why not just replace the whole board? 12' 2x4 is like 5 bucks at most? Also, why not use a nail extractor instead of prying on other boards?

[@FrancescaWellons]

Ken R >> ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬ஜ۩۞۩ஜ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬ Hey guys have you tried >====>> TedsWoodworking23.blogspot.co.nz

[@GB3770]

+Ken R And his repair used $1 of wood...why spend $5 when you can spend $1...

[@brockr4537]

+GB3770 where do you find $1 wood? id like to shop at your store. Not the point anyway.

[@GB3770]

Ken R You buy the big bit of wood and cut it into smaller pieces...duh.

[@cowsongs]

Not really. A 2x4 12' in cedar is a lot more than 5 bucks, more like 15. He's not using cedar (or any exterior grade wood, which is a big problem). Aside from that, I'm with you. Once a board has been out in the weather long enough for part of it to rot, forget it. You may as well replace the whole thing, as long as you upgrade it with an exterior wood that will last.

[@kingtut5923]

Sorry but that whole deck could use a facelift.

[@sirenrose351]

woot canada bahha...

[@55098]

2x4 as decking thats an oldie

[@waitersluvhjy66]

I am sure you can still buy handbook with all info you need on woodprix. Just google it.

[@gamebreaker5518]

terrible looking deck..neglected for sure..

[@rickj6048]

I have a 23 year old treated lumber 2x6 deck that needed a re-hab. Instead of buying new wood I flipped the bad boards over and screwed them down. Looks new compared to the others. The joists are 24 inches on center. After flipping, if the ends were split or rotted, I cut off a foot from each end and added a 24 inch filler from spare 2x6 boards I have that were salvaged from old benches and picnic tables that were previously dismantled. Cheap fix and I "kicked the can down the road" for another 5 or 10 years.

[@robgarneau7926]

Much better to predrill srew holes to prevent end splitting! Also would be better if you seal old screw holes in joists before reattaching new board. They are a reservoir for water and future damage. Finally, seal cut ends, before reinstalling.

[@A10TOES]

Thanks, no one has ever mentioned that.

[@jezzichan]

Thanks for this tip. I had just asked about how to deal with this.

[@defhead2]

Thanks so much for this great tutorial. Im going to change some of my boards tomorrow and have the knowledge now to do so.

[@ljones98391]

Thank you, sir. This is exactly the situation I have on a 12’ deck board. I appreciate your thorough video. Wow, that square has seen a few projects.

[@ladyocrawford3164]

Excellent video step by step instructions easy to follow although a tedious job however the outcome is great. Thanks

[@plscott43]

This was very, very helpful. Thank you for the great advice. Two - thumbs up.

[@Pillow829]

The procedure shown in the video works if the boards are fastened with nails. However, if they are very tight nails or nailscrews then you won't be able to lift the boards as shown. In that case, you need to use a Dremel Multi-Max tool or similar to cut out the portion of the wood that you want to remove. You can use the same tool to cut off the screws.

[@gobrad]

Great video but would’ve been nice to see it finished … as in how you painted it

[@dattape2828]

I would screw a board under that plank against the joist to further support the replacement plank

[@mapiador]

excellent idea!

[@tonysummers9095]

Perfect, that's what I was looking for...how to cut a long board at the joist and drop in a new one. Thanks!

[@backyardmech]

Tony Summers Glad it helped Tony !

[@8825able1]

Great video! Appreciate how you show how to replace only the rotted wood & to save on lumber costs! Sealing the cut ends before installation is a great idea.

[@annettebrent]

Seems very straight-forward. I will be trying this this week. Only difference is that I'm working with screws vs. nails. If those heads are stripped or strip while trying to remove them then I'm hoping my sawzall will work. Thanks for covering the details.

[@RickHenderson]

I’m glad I found this. A few videos showed the guy placing the skill saw down without lifting the good end. Scares the heck outta me because the skillsaw I borrowed has a spring guard on it. My deck is screwed down and the screws are stripped but at least you’ve given me hope!

[@patricecomedy]

Thanks for a great video! I just bought a new home and need a "DIY Dad". Thanks!

[@adamhoffman2]

Great video! I have the confidence now to do this myself. Thanks for posting!

[@CaboWabotv]

your first mistake was painting that deck. Paint always eventually peels and looks nasty. I've learned to only use a clear sealer now on my deck instead of paints and stains. Then I can just clean and reseal with clear every few years. The deck looks newer longer

[@DaveLisenbee]

Very helpful. I did not have access to a sawzall so was going to replace the whole board. This is an excellent tip that I had not thought of. Thanks!

[@michaelpelon4133]

good video - but you should pre drill holes and countersink those holes to preserve wood

[@kysupersport]

Thanks for some good tips. I m working on one like the deck shown here.

[@miketidwell9546]

A small piece of angle iron or shelving metal would protect the ajoining deck board from damage. Tie a cord to it to retrieve it as you will drop it through the deck a few times as I did.

[@Avital4414]

super basic question: why do we want a space between the boards? doesn't that space allow water to get to the joists and rot them out?

[@LL-ue3ek]

it'd be nicer if you pre drill small holes for the screws so the end of the wood does not get tiny cracks.

[@annettebrent]

It worked out fine. I had to use my Sawzall quite often as well for my screws but it is now restored. New cedar boards where needed and saved a ton of money doing it myself. The estimates were close to the price of a new deck. Thanks for the video.

[@morganjon5545]

i think the best place to find well laid out deck plans is to the *mysecretblueprints. com* one

[@judyle7691]

Thank you so much. Your video helped me out a lot! Bought a new house that needs a lot of upgrading...husband got busy at work, so I'm working to try and figure it out on my own!

[@Outdoor_Don]

I just walk under my deck and hammer the board upward

[@pkfan5112]

Skip the pilot hole will make crack in the future, it is bad

[@greystark7414]

Loved the video, it was explained very well with tools/equipment needed. And also what I liked was you really took your time describing everything, and those last min tips at the end of the video were very helpful.

[@TerrapinCreations666]

What sucks is now the new boards will never match the rest of the deck.

[@12Radius]

Get under the deck and hit it with a sledgehammer works!

[@capergal51]

Not always and much more dangerous.

[@12Radius]

Yeah a crowbar good best!

[@lisahind8858]

Better than using your good sterling dinner knives. LOL !!

[@yesyoumay]

Question; I am replacing old deck boards and pre-drilling and using deck screws (instead of nails that were on old deck) There are a few boards where the bottoms are decent and I want to simply flip over. Can I use the old holes in the boards and joists since I'm replacing the nails with long deck screws, or should I stagger the board placement somewhat and drill new holes in the boards and joists? Thanks for any help!

[@Pixie1141]

What I did - cut bad board(s) perfectly flush with supporting timber ( easy because the supporting timber edge is your guide). Then install treated section of 2x4 underneath as support for the new board. Use the length you need depending on the number of boards you are replacing. Comes out perfect every time; rock solid. ** Note: Let the new wood dry for a week or so.**

[@richardwheeler1387]

Obviously, you're showing the technique. It's distracting to me that a lot of the board's picture need replacement and sealing.

[@mrhanson9922]

I enjoy the idea of cutting the part of the board that is rotted. Plus you can wash the old board with soap & water to remove the algae, then or repaint as you wish.

[@genedandy]

Dude, nice video, but please, get yourself a new square 📐. It is as bad as the deck ! 😂

[@terrymckann5594]

I did know square could rot i think i works fine silly

[@mikecooper9507]

Great video. Thanks for posting.

[@JohnSmith-ys4vg]

Good video, long enough in length to make your thoughtful observations and instructions unhurried. I will definitely tackle my own back deck repair now that I have seen your tutorial. Thanks so much.

[@thomashanes2751]

I am replacing a few boards on my deck, two are 20 feet and two are 8 feet. Should I purchase the treated wood 2x6 and lay it down on the deck to settle with the weather first? or purchase 10 foot board instead the 20 foot board? should I stain the boards before I lay them down? Thomas

[@kennethclark2425]

The Whole Deck is a MESS!!! Remove it all and who paints Gray anymore? Really slick when wet.

[@hghurst4870]

The brief notes section at the end is worth as much as the overall concept. Thanks for a great explanation and demo!

[@karlosfraser]

Hiya backyard owsome video only one suggestion the joint piece pre drill the hole then screw otherwise it will split the middle parts on no need to predrill hope i didnt offend you by giving my opinion

[@johng4250]

why nails and not screws. You must be in the east, in the west it seems everyone uses screws (preferably torx drive) for decks.

[@sok8888]

You should pre-drill holes before putting in the deck screws. Otherwise the screw will crack the board.

[@elrico1364]

allot of boards a still good on the other side... just flip em over and get another ten yrs out of them. I did.

[@davidbyourplanb]

Thanks! Didn't know how to cut out a section of an existing board!

[@lonnietran1925]

i would replace all new board if that deck were mine ... they all look rough

[@brettjones8806]

Thanks, very informative

[@anastasiaprentiss2552]

Thanks! This was helpful!

[@sherwoodplayernr1]

Just close your eyes and relax 8:21

[@Sleonieann]

Thank you very much for this post... I am about to replace some rotten wood on my deck and then use that deck restore on the rest that are okay......fingers cross

[@lijie6431]

How did it go?

[@gregjones3660]

Just put some deck renew on it...

[@jezzichan]

This video was so helpful. One question-when the deck screw was drilled in, it part of the board seemed to crack a small bit. Is there something you do so preserve that area around the hairline crack or will the stain and finish fill that in?

[@sundancerproductions8290]

Pre drill pilot holes

[@relee67]

Sure is a lot of rust on those tools

[@starkaran8390]

I have found a detailed design for it on the stodoys website

[@pi1810]

Great hands and fingernails for a working man.

[@jerrykelley4470]

Your accent is similar to the Ocracoke NC brogue.

[@bob6610]

Stain the new board on all 4 sides before installing !

[@Lazer3321]

Just a thought here. You mention the nice straight edge that you get from the mill. Well, you can duplicate that very easy by using a mitre saw or a chop saw. Try it! It works very good and does a fine jop on making a straight edge and a right angle.

[@alfievann9312]

Thank you for making the video, I'm forced into lots of handyman work from buying our first home. Subscribed & Watching your other videos.

[@backyardmech]

Alfie Vann Thanks for commenting and enjoy your new home Alfie !

[@MrBj2020]

Good job. When you put those screwed in, it ripped the end of the wood; would that be of any concern?

[@pawloskys]

Video was a great help, thank you for taking your time to help me. I've put the task off because I didn't know the exact process, but I'm excited to get started now!

[@wdaub]

Thank you this was very helpful

[@lenf3641]

This guy is so unprofessional that it's so funny. I was LMAO

[@Ed-iz4wm]

I think this guy would do better just headin' out to the bar for a beer.

[@piyushsopory5817]

great video. very helpful.

[@gman1003]

This deck is a goner, replace the whole thing before you fall through and break your legs.

[@53toddk]

I suggest you try Abaton's LiquidWood and/or WoodEpox after digging out the rottted wood. Mix with some sawdust and it becomes sort of a plasticized wood filler. Saves lots of wood and money, and the repaired area is stronger than the remainder of the board.

[@lizstowers8860]

Very helpful thanks

[@christopherpugmire2969]

Thank you for the handy video! Btw, I love your accent. Where are you from? Reminds me of a Norfolk accent.

[@backyardmech]

christopher pugmire Thanks for commenting Chris - I'm in Nova Scotia; on the east coast of Canada

[@FrancescaWellons]

christopher pugmire >> ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬ஜ۩۞۩ஜ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬ Hey guys have you tried >====>> TedsWoodworking23.blogspot.co.nz

[@FfejTball]

Francesca Wellons I think we all know what kind of wood you're working with, Francesca.

[@ElishaPercival]

Francesca Wellons that web sight is closed

[@davidfoster4806]

Skipped over an important step. It's not recommended to fasten replacement boards to only half the width of the joist. The preferred method is to glue and screw a clete to the side of the open 'shared' joist. This provides each adjoining board a full section of joist (original plus clete) for support.

[@serges6251]

What is clete?

[@marklasson3177]

Serge S, a short piece of wood nailed parallel to the joist. "cleat" if you are just being a grammar natzi... Lol

[@jevchance]

Good info thanks for posting.

[@robertor6564]

Very Informative video. Thanks

[@gattbe5611]

if you are using 5/4 boards, joists should be on 16'' centers ..rusty tools ..I would not want you near any work that matters..sounds like a " jack of all trades, master of none..

[@FfejTball]

gatt be Food for thought: Critique is important, often appreciated (except, typically, by the young). Rudeness is not.

[@radekbonk9185]

+gatt be I am very confident this guy does not want to anywhere near you or your tools. He is providing a video for do-it-yourselfers as a courtesy. This isn't rocket science. It is tools, wood, and nails.

[@FfejTball]

Radek Bonk Well, to be fair, he has a very good point concerning board width and joist placement.

[@nickspiegel8870]

That ain't right lol he's just a home owner trying to help his hillbilly friends

[@cowsongs]

There's nothing wrong with trying to help homeowners do it themselves. The problem here is that he's doing a number of things that are just plain unsafe. Replacing decking with wood that isn't exterior grade, and leaving the rotting joists in place (you can see that they are rotting when he removes the deck boards), for example. Using long deck screws so that if the joists are partially rotted, the screws will go down into the part that isn't rotted??? In other words, leave the partially rotted joists in place? He even says that he only plans on this lasting a few years. Agreed - it's better to be polite when criticizing, but there's some really bad practices in this video. Beware.

[@MrKartman68]

What accent is this?

[@barkatthemoon100]

Sean K It sounds Canadian to me.

[@chilliewilly41]

Maine

[@cowsongs]

Pretty scary. Those replacement boards do not look like treated wood, or exterior grade (like cedar or redwood), so they are going to rot quickly. In the scenes where the old deck board has been removed, you can clearly see that the tops of the deck joists underneath are rotted on top. Even if the rest of the joist is okay (just has rot at the top edge, which is common), those need to be replaced before they go completely. In the meantime, those new deck boards are going to start sagging and jumping up and down on top of the joists due to the rot (when you walk on it). I had several of those in my own deck. To HECK with it. Rip out the bad joist from underneath and replace it with a pressure treated one. It will outlast the rest of the deck and avoid a lot of problems. Joining two deck boards over a single two-by joist? That means the end of the deck board only has 3/4" of wood resting on the joist. Not great. If you are going to do a splice, add a block screwed into the side of the joist at that point so you have a full 1-1/2" to nail or screw each deck board to. The fact that he starts out saying that he only intends this repair to last a few years is very telling. It sounds like this is a quickie repair intended to allow the house to be sold off, leaving the next owner with the chore of tearing out and replacing the whole deck. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for trying to replace only the bad portions and not rebuilding an entire deck if you don't have to. But this isn't the way to do it.

[@jeraco73]

thanks for the helpful video!

[@macoak3869]

On a positive note - he articulates well and speaks clearly. The video imagery is smooth and clear and he provides decent close-ups where appropriate. Other than that, I can't find other redeeming value in it. What you see/hear in the video is not worth your time. Keep searching for one done by a professional deck builder. I am one (have not done a video though) and would not want this guy doing any work on my property. The tools a "Pro" uses say a lot about them. A carpenter with a Framing Square and Hammer that look like his (not to mention the circular saw that could be bought at a yard sale for $10. A Pro would not own it.) should be shunned/avoided. All the deck builders I know would use a Speed Square where he attempts to use his Framing Square. Appears he is installing "white wood" (pine - not pressure treated). We don't know where he is, but all wood-surfaced decks in most of the USA have either "pressure-treated" deck boards, a "tropical wood" or a domestic that's naturally decay resistant - like cedar or redwood. As others have already mentioned, he fails to provide LOTS of VERY important info. In my opinion, he is a homeowner with time and a camera on his hands - that does NOT build/repair decks for a living. Search for better info - it is out there.

[@terrymckann5594]

Your are reala jerk this video worked for many including who cares what his tools look like they still work. you are a hate full person this poor world has to put up with uncompassionate people like you heaven help you to put kindness into you heart and tame down that ego

[@murali1981in]

Thanks for the video. how long do you wait before you stain the new wood? Also do you treat the cut end of the old plank so it doesn't rot there?

[@davidcameron6016]

i think the best place to find well laid out deck plans is to the *mysecretblueprints. com* one