How to replace the driver and passenger side lower control arms on your 2013 Volkswagen Passat VW

This was a little more challenging than I expected, since in reality you’re only taking out five bolts. On the passenger side we were able to lift up the engine enough to get the screw out. On the driver side we had to disconnect the whole front end and drop it about a inch to get the bolt out. It took about 2 hrs, I could do it in half the time if I had to do it again.

[@TJTodd604]

Pro tip. You don't need to remove the subframe bolts and jack it up. I just did mine the other day. Remove the DOGBONE bolts (2) and use a pry bar to move the trans pan away from the bolt to remove. Less work AND only 2 TTY bolts to replace, instead of 6 on the subframe

[@RealityUniverse]

Good to know! Thanks for watching 😀

[@majklxxx]

@TJTodd604 does it work also on AWD cars or propshaft will restrict movement (push autotransmission)?

[@bucasbill2592]

Is your car an 09G auto or dsg?

[@majklxxx]

@@bucasbill2592 DSG has problem with arm's bolt, so I will try removing dogbone and try to move engine+trans with pry bar, if it doesnt work i Will remove engine mount and jack up eng+tran.... dont want to unscrew subframe

[@jogu1732]

I took my '13 passat TDI in for an alignment after replacing all wheel bearings. After shop performed visual inspection, I was told they couldn't do alignment because both front ball joints need replacement Left and Right side. I am glad you made this video, It will save me some money. I appreciate it you taking the time to make this money saver. 181k miles on my VW. Thanks again!

[@bassimobten7856]

i think you only need alignment when replacing both ball joints, but not needed when replacing wheel bearings. i am not an expert but just saying based on the work i got done on my 2013 passat.

[@SS-iv7wv]

I did a transmission drain and refill by dropping the drain pan, that bolt on the drivers side control arm hits the drain pan but once dropped you have access with no issues, so I will knock out 2 birds with one stone next time. The drain pain is an easy job, filling is a pain though but they've all gone that way with "lifetime" fluid as they claim (bs).

[@russellspaddy9065]

You make it look sooo easy! Thank you for uploading. Now I have to make the attempt... wish 🤞 me luck!

[@Calebt1981]

I admire your courage and really appreciate your willingness to share what you learn!

[@RealityUniverse]

Thanks for watching… I am glad you enjoyed the video! Always something exciting 😉

[@red2g]

I watched a youtube short where you can place a bottlejack or factory jack between the frame and engine block. First you must remove both dogmount bolts (The middle mount). You then just push the engine away from the frame with the jack just enough to slip the bolt out, about to verify this lol. Thanks for this video nonetheless

[@red2g]

Update: So what I did was undo the 2 middle bolts that go to the dogmount. Then with a big prybar you can move the engine forward enough to wedge it for now. So I wedged a deep 1/2 socket next to the bolt you need to get out. To get even more room, I then placed a block of wood toward the front of the oil pan and jacked up slowly. This raises the engine away forward just enough to slide the bolt out. I kept it there until I torqued the bolt down! Piece of cake

[@chrisday0707]

@@red2g so in order to get the driver side out you only took out the dogbone bolts? Not the subframe bolts?

[@red2g]

@@chrisday0707 Yes, but you need to tilt the engine forward and hold it there. So you need a decent prybar, just take a look under there and you will see.

[@chrisday0707]

@@red2g thx I'm gonna do it this weekend...do you think there's enough room for leverage to tilt the engine while doing this on jacks? I've got some thick heavy duty screwdrivers

[@red2g]

@@chrisday0707 I had it on jack stands, plenty of room

[@RIVERLOPEZ]

Subframe bolts are one time use only. They need to be replaced each time since they are elastic bolts. I learned that the hard way. But it’s good to replace them otherwise you will have same noises in the near future due to bolts not staying in place. Cheers

[@matthewweldin7888]

Yes, they are a torque to yield bolt. They are designed to stretch. If you reuse the bolt, they are prone to failure because they are already torqued to yield. There are 6 that need replaced. FCP Euro is the site to use.

[@joefoglia735]

So I'm shopping for control arms on my 2012 jetta se. And I can't find a definitive answer whether or not I need the arm with that little metal bracket or if it is the style you have here. Will they both fit?

[@RealityUniverse]

I had to look under the car, I would probably recommend that! They are different.

[@unruly_876]

Can you just replace the bushings on the sway bar ? Or do you have to get a new sway bar and bushings? Thanks

[@RealityUniverse]

You can just replace the bushings

[@rosagutierrez1386]

Hi do you mind telling me how many bolts/ which bolts are recommended to replace with new ones? And possibly dropping links to them.

[@RIVERLOPEZ]

What kind of car do you have? Model

[@Rockwell1977]

Where did you find the torque specs for the subframe bolts? I'm about to do the same repair and I am not sure where to get these specs.

[@RealityUniverse]

the Bentley manual… it's 81 ft/lbs plus 1/4 turn BUT only if you’re replacing the bolts, like you are supposed to.

[@jrrome]

google 'nhtsa quick reference' for your car. There's a pdf with torque specs for every bolt on the vehicle.

[@jwj500]

70 ft pds on existing bolts.

[@jwj500]

It doesn't appear you preloaded the control arms bushings before you tightened all the way. This isn't how the car rides with the wheel hanging all the way down. You can use a jack to raise the control arm to ride height before your torque the bolts down otherwise bushings will fail. If you didn't do this, loosen the control arm bolts, pre-load and then torque down.

[@RealityUniverse]

I loosen it and torque it after it’s on the ground. Then get an alignment.

[@monsieur420]

whats the torque spec for subframe

[@RealityUniverse]

I am not sure, I will check it out and get back to you.

[@stevereedatx]

Great video, but man I second that torque spec as well

[@eyeback]

@@stevereedatx 70 nm + 180° turn and 50 nm + 90°turn for the middle foward subframe to engine mount bolts

[@jwj500]

70 ft pds with existing bolts

[@laststruggle4533]

Why not share everything 😢 and the skipping 🤦🏽