How To: Replace the FEP Sheet | Anycubic Photon M3 Max

A quick walkthrough on how to service and replace the Anycubic Photon M3 Max FEP sheet. More videos to come, I'm only getting started!
***FEP Sheet Supplies***
Anycubic FEP Sheets: www.anycubic.c...
KOYOFEI FEP Sheets: www.amazon.com...
Dryer Sheets: www.amazon.com...
PTFE Lubricant: www.amazon.com...

[@jamesdefrange]

Watched 1000000 videos and not a single vid ever recommended dryer sheets or oil. I extended my exposure time because prints were not sticking to the plate… I think this wore out my FEB faster and it started to leak. Thank god I had a screen protector. About to do my first print with normal exposure and the lube you recommended. We will see how it goes! Ty!

[@marcellehmann3430]

I replaced mine according to your recommendations and it worked flawlessly. Thank you a Lot for this video.

[@BrianMullens-yn1pl]

75 projects completed multiple prints per project and i just replaced the FEP sheet and re leveled it. Don’t know why everyone trashes Anycubic this machine is outstanding.

[@TheGadusi]

Better instructions that the Anycubic video!

[@lifeholdstrategic]

Great information, thank you for posting this.

[@SuperGokuSon]

Nice and informative you did a great job =]

[@BADDERSBETTERDIORAMAHACKS121]

Nicely produced and presented vid. I know you did say that the order of unscrewing the screws when removing the old FEP isn't as important as when fixing the new FEP, but I'd go further and say there is NO importance to it at all. The old FEP is scrap anyway, so it doesn't matter if it gets damaged somehow, even if it's damaged, however unlikely, by some incredibly violent 'incorrect unscrewing order'. In fact the reason most people change their FEPs is because they've been punctured, or torn, beforehand, so what's the point of keeping an even tension around the frame? I'd go so far as to say that whenever I've changed an old FEP, I've deliberately sliced the FEP first, removing all tension from it, ostensibly to ease the stresses on the screws and the frame, but more so because it's FUN! Anyway, loosening/removing screws in the 'wrong' order isn't going to damage the metal frame either. So, the 'screwing order' only matters when fixing the new FEP. But I'm here for all those who've 'fallen' for the old 'Do the corners first' and 'Go around tightening the diagonal opposites like you would a car wheel' Or, 'Do the corners then go around the frame clockwise/anti-clockwise malarkey. They should look at he correct 'patterns' for tightening nuts and bolts on rectangular structures. The BEST order of screwing would be to tighten all the screws down at the same time, keepin even tension across the entire frame and FEP and screws, the whole time, but none of us have 28 or more hands. As we only have one screwing hand, the best option is to screw down every screw, as you do, a bit at a time and do them in a zig-zag pattern opposites. BUT Doing the 4 corners first is the WORST thing you can do! The frame is not circular, or square, it's a rectangle, and those corner screws are not placing the FEP under tension on straight bits of metal frame, or the rim of the vat, but on curves, and those corner screws are not truly perfectly, diagonally opposite each other either. Lay a ruler across those so-called diagonally opposite screws and you'll see that the 'shape' of the FEP either side of the diagonal is not the same. So, tightening the diagonals, which aren't 45 degrees, (as would be with a square frame) or 180 degrees (for a circular frame), lifts the other of the frame, but offset from that far corner, thanks to the curve in the frame/vat rim. With the M3 Max the problem is exacerbated because of the size/length of the vat and the ratio between length and width. Smaller printers have smaller ratio vats. But for all these vats, the best way is to tighten those screws, a bit at a time, sticking to a pattern and repeating until the FEP is correctly tensioned, but tigthen those which are truly opposite each other, so for the Max, that's the middle screws on the front and back length, and then those either side of those 2, zig-zagging up-down, up down, left and right as you work your way out from the centre, and after maybe tightening 6 screws, do those on the left and right hand sides. IIRC there aren't any truly 'middle' screws on the sides of the frame on the Max, but there are 2 screws which WOULD be either side of it if there were one, so do one of those, then the screw directly opposite, then drop down and do the next 2 directly opposite screws. Keep up with that pattern, zig-zag, opposites and leave the corners until last. Then tighten them all down a bit more, following the same pattern as before. I'm a model-maker, not a 3d print chappie, but I will probably produce a vid explaining it better. Sorry for the long waffle, but I'm bored LOL. btw, I've subscribed, and not just by way of an apology. LOL

[@nicknacks3d]

Thanks! You bring up some interesting points. You're right that the old FEP sheet is not important to keep protected, but I'm trying to keep the frame from bending too much while removing the screws. Your method of tearing the old screen might be a great way to get past that though. I'd be interested to see a visual explanation of your suggested zigzag method. I appreciate the thoughts, I'll look into this as a possible alternative to the corners method, though I will say, it has been working great for me so far. Thank you for your thoughts and suggestions!

[@DizzWhazzUp]

@@nicknacks3d Really nice video indeed! Especially concidered it's only your 2nd vid, at least on this channel. It's made in a way that seems like you've done it before and maybe you have, so I was shoked to see it's only your 2nd one, so cudos on that!! I am writing here because I agree with replacing it, but from the video it doesn't seem to be much tension left, after it's been streched over the vat to become as taught as it is when in use/just sitting there. Just un-screwing it seems to get rid of most of it, but I also believe it's good to avoid any bad habits while fixing the printer and all the stuff that comes with it. It's already expensive as it is, and even the pieces that will need replacing sometimes (screen protectors, FEP sheets etc) can also quickly add up, so best to keep it tidy and find good habits/ways of doing it. Mine has leaked a bit I just found out, through a really small hole made in the FEP, so I now have some cured resin on the screen protector itself too, so that'll also need replacement as well as the FEP :P I'd love to see more vids from you in the future, with any tips and tricks! The lube for the surface also seems to be a nice thing to try out. My first few prints had some issues with falling off the supports, but tbf that's also partly because of the amount of supports and how thin they are on that particular model. Not really the best prints for a beginner. I've tried a few other ones now just before I found out about my issues and they're printing way better, with only a few imperfections so far.

[@pauljohnson2692]

Very good info on how to replace the FEP, just need to know how do we get the correct tuning? I have used a spectrum analyser on my other printers but I have no idea of what frequency we need to tune for this one as it is such a large FEP.

[@nicknacks3d]

To be honest with, I don't think a precise tuning is necessary. As long as your screen is pulled tight and without wrinkles you should be in good shape. A test to find the optimal tuning would be interesting, but I have never attributed a print failure to improper FEP tuning.

[@pauljohnson2692]

@@nicknacks3d It is just I have been printing successfully for some time but needed to change the FEP as it developed a small hole. Replaced the FEP but have now been unable to get anything to print successfully, other sites suggested a 118-119 kHz turning but this seems very lose. Frustrating.

[@nicknacks3d]

Hmmm, it might be caused by something else, perhaps. Can you describe print failures you are seeing?

[@pauljohnson2692]

@@nicknacks3d Thank you for your help, I can only get prints now to partially stick to one side of the build plate, even then the side facing the centre is starting to pull away. I have levelled the plate several times including using the vat to level but still no success. I do have a heater in the printer set for 28 degrees C and a VAT band heater as well. I have tried three different resins just in case they were out of date as well. I am not new to resin printing and have over 4 years’ experience with 3 resin printers but this M2 Max has always given me issues, had to replace the screen and motherboard from new. On the second LCD screen now after the 1st replacement failed in a week, it started to behave and printed very well but the vat developed a small hole and I replaced it, now back to square one and nothing prints well at all. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[@nicknacks3d]

Sounds like quite the Christine of 3D printers. With that kind of history, it could be a multitude of things. If it's not bed leveling, could it be the screen itself? Dead pixels, miss alignment? Another thing to consider is the model you are slicing. Does it have suctions cups or large flat surfaces? Sounds like you know what you doing for the most part, so I'm afraid I might not be able to diagnose your problem without the machine itself. I hope you are able to find a solution that works! Best of luck @pauljohnson2692

[@cam_shaftgaming1820]

I want that electric driver.

[@nicknacks3d]

It's an iFu Mini Electric Screwdriver. It's super clutch, I absolutely love this kit. Super well priced for what you get and the case is nice! I've thought about designing some 3D printable organizers to improve the case further, but have not yet gotten around to it lol. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B099KDS6RX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

[@tarekalrifai8551]

Thank you for your video! I'm new to this and I would like to ask the why behind removing the statics off the FEP sheet?

[@nicknacks3d]

Great question! The FEP sheet and the screen will both collect a lot of static electricity when being wiped clean. This static can cause the FEP sheet to not flex properly during printing due to the added attraction force to the screen. This can cause print failures like prints getting stuck to the FEP or worse, folds forming in the FEP sheet. I find it's best practice to discharge the surfaces of your printer especially on first arrival and after cleaning. I've even had static build up on the outer plastic casing and actually pull small drips of resin away from the buidplate! A box of unscented dryer sheets are essential IMO.

[@ExsekiasTrivoulides]

Greetings, I am in Europe thus the 3-In-One lubricant is out of my range pricewise... is there any other PTF lubricant in the European market that you could recommend me??? Thanks

[@zachcrawford5]

I think a piece of aluminum foil would be more effective for removing static. Also, it's reusable and won't leave any waxy residues like a bounce sheet might.

[@stltrekmodels.4157]

I use the PTFE lubricant on the build plate. I hadn't considered it on the FEP film. I also use a de-ionizing infra red light to help take static away from the FEP sheet.

[@nicknacks3d]

I've never heard of using infrared light to remove static, but I'll do some research on it. What benefits are there to using PTFE lubricant on the buildplate itself? My first thought would be that it would prevent propper adhesion and cause failures, but I've never tried it.

[@stltrekmodels.4157]

@@nicknacks3d I put it on like just a few drops, and wipe it with a paper towel so it is microscopic on the plate. I still get good adhesion, but the models come off the plate easier. yea, you cant have it like fried chicken greasy or it wouldn't stick at all. I also do it about every 3 prints, not every time.

[@ajc4477]

So you put a non stick substance on a non stick surface? It comes straight off as soon as the build plate hits the resin and contaminates it. If you have issues with prints sticking to your fep it means the build plate is uneven or you didn't level properly. Why do you think the resin and printer makers don't sell their own versions of it? Recommending PTFE lube just shows you don't have a clue what you're talking about.

[@stltrekmodels.4157]

@@ajc4477 Well I will give you this much of it. #1. I am fairly new to this and have only been printing for about 6 months now personally, so I won't argue with your point. You might be right. #2, I am watching YT video's about 3D printing, I am experimenting with different programs, both Slicers and 3D design programs like Z Brush, although I have been 3D modeling in Blender for 15 years. So when you claim that I don't have a clue about what I am talking about, I would have to say that you are partially right. On the other hand, My business partner has been 3D printing for about 5 years now, and he was the person who showed me how and why to put PTFE on the build plate, and then to wipe it off good, but it leaves a microscopic layer on the plate because we had issues with the parts not wanting to separate from the plates. I have never had issues with the parts sticking to the FEP film myself, but found it interesting that someone else was experimenting with a solution. As far as experience with contamination of the resin, the only problems I have had with that is when i accidentally mixed water cleanable resin with ABS like Resin, and trust me, that made a mess. The only other issues that I have had is learning how to position the parts to get them to print with or without x amount of supports, and or I have had some ghosting issues with the anycubic slicer, so I had to convert to Chitubox, and I am testing the Phrozen Mighty 8K as it prints strait from Chitubox and not from a conversion file. So calling me clueless is about half right. I am learning though and I think you could have worded it better and different, like saying that its possible that using the PTFE might contaminate the resin. I have had over 300 successful prints and about 15 not so successful prints, so I think that you don't have a clue about other people not having a clue. God bless you and have a nice day.😆

[@ajc4477]

@@stltrekmodels.4157 So you're new at this and you don't really know what you're talking about. Awesome that you're doing "instructional" videos, eh? 😂

[@commonsense7754]

Yeah except your meant to use a 13mm spacer so it’s not overtightened as per any cubic website instructions

[@coleschaben]

I followed this but for some reason prints are sticking to the side (used the anycubic test print) but they arent sticking to the middle of build plate

[@nicknacks3d]

This might be an issue related to your slicing settings. You might need to just increase your burn in layer time to make sure prints stick properly to your buildplate. Due to the elastic qualities of the FEP sheet, you'll get more flex in the center than you would from the edges. That flex can sometimes be good because it give the FEP sheet more time to peel away from from your print as the build plate rises. If your prints are peeling away from your buildplate, you need to check that the build plate is properly leveled, that your FEP sheet is well tensioned with no wrinkles or gashes, and that your buildplate has a good texture on it that aids in adhesion. If all those things are good, then failures are most likely slicer based. Test with higher burn in layer times & slower buildplate movement speeds. There are other things like suction cups and proper orientation that could cause these failures as well. Good luck and hopefully this info helps!

[@tyleralexander8811]

What power tool are you using exactly?

[@nicknacks3d]

I'm using the iFu Mini Electric Screwdriver set. It's been really handy for working on this printer and other various electronics. a.co/d/8pxK9Ar

[@JonDohnson]

Hi Nick, thanks for your great vid! I was waiting to long with replacing my FEP and some resin crept below the FEP to the edges of the screen. To my biggest surprise, it corroded the tape around the screen. Talking to the Anycubic after sales support, he confirmed that the tape around the screen isn't resin resistant 🤬 Original text: "The LCD screen’s fixing tape will be damaged if it encounters resin" That's true irony: Anycubic uses a tape for screen protection for their resin printer which isn't resin resistant ... Anyhow: Do you have an idea which tape could be used to replace the corroded one?

[@cameronmalchow7597]

This isn't how I was taught to replace FEP sheets. To start off with, when you are screwing the front of the FEP sheet into the frame, I was taught to place a spacer between your table and the FEP sheet so that it isn't tight at first. Then you screw it into the frame by tightening opposite screws and simply screwing it all the way down. No lube on the FEP, as it is unnecessary IMHO. clean with alcohol on both sides and as long as it makes a tight drum noise when struck, it's at an acceptable tightness and ready to use.

[@marcelogallardo2749]

Well, you forget we are not talking about regular size machines, but bigger ones, for which you'll need way more tension, and if there's something you don't want is to be left with not enough tension.

[@divyanshmaheshwari3402]

I have not been able to tension my fep right. Have wasted sheets on sheets. Been trying all the hacks to do it but no success. I'm not able tension it to 330. Even at 270 in yhe middle it is already too tight in the screws. I dont knkw what to do. Scratching my head on and on. Somebody save me.

[@stateservant]

I don't think you need 330hz for M3 Max. Those videos with 330hz come fronm smaller printers. With larger FEP, the expension of the FEP will also be bigger by default, that's why we need higher Z-Axis lift disctance for every layer. I honestly always hate FEP replacement, i also never check the frequency, yet i can still print. Most of the print failure in my case comes from exposure settings and, lift distance, overcrowding, and overweight of the build plate. Good rule of thumb for me is: 1. Try to hollow the print as thin as possible, 2. Place the objects in a balanced manner, 3.Try cutting down big things into smaller pieces to reduce print time. Printing time is extremely important because your base layers might fail before you finish printing.

[@divyanshmaheshwari3402]

@@stateservant thank you for your reply

[@divyanshmaheshwari3402]

This time when i replaced mine, didn't check anything. Just installed and ready to go. Been printing fine till now

[@stateservant]

@@divyanshmaheshwari3402 anycubic M3 Max is by far the best SLA 3d printer i have ever used. So few maintenance, so few major breakdowns, prints well, and it's big.

[@anlcansakalloglu741]

tanko

[@anthonyvera8524]

So wait....the textured (frosted) FEP that came with the M3 MAX isn't required? I don't like it textured. I feel as if it should be perfectly clear. I'll try the sheets you used. AWESOME video! I'm even subscribing to your channel because of it! COME ON PEOPLE!!! Let's build this guy's channel up!!!

[@nicknacks3d]

Thank you for the comment! I totally agree, these FEP sheets have been a game changer. I honestly believe they preform better than the frosted Anycubic sheets!