How to replace the Front Main Seal

[@joebarrington7753]

Thank you for the tutorial. Working on my first big block today, and really needed this step by step.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Glad it helped! You've got this! :)

[@LMBee00]

The front seal on a 1982 Chevy V6 2.8L gave up today. I came here to learn what I have to do, to replace it. Thank you

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Good luck, you've got this!! :)

[@Glens1965]

Excellent tutorial as usual. Also for you guys with the seal that needs to replaced from the rear. After the cover is removed, use a de-burring tool and remove the front lip that the seal stops on. You can now use the seal Andy used and will aid for future maintenance.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Great tip!

[@classicstangbrn8964]

You beat me to the same reply.

[@fxdwgriding]

@@AndyKruseChannel I’m in the process of doing the front seal and was going to use the one you did. I have my timing cover off was just curious about the de-burring. May I ask what that means I’m not exactly sure. I like the seal you used. Thanks in advance.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

@@fxdwgriding The lip on the older Timing Covers is pretty thick, but it can be removed with some elbow grease. Filing it away may be the easiest for those that don't have access to a Mill or carbide tipped bits for air grinders. You'll want to take your time if you're going this route. The alternative would be to pick up the newer timing cover (like what I have in this video) and just put in the new seal. :)

[@fxdwgriding]

@@AndyKruseChannel thank you so much I appreciate the info. Will probably get the new timing cover. By the way your channel is great thanks.

[@TheGT350Garage]

There is a good chance the timing cover is not quite aligned to the crank and it’s wearing the seal. Early 221-351W engines do not have alignment dowels in the lower holes of the block for the timing cover. This means that if the timing cover is installed without using the balancer to align the timing cover, the front seal rides against the balancer in one spot until they leak. If this leak comes back that’s most likely the issue and the fix is to remove, clean, realign using the balancer and reseal the timing cover to resolve the issue. Your timing cover is a modern reproduction because it has the cast in pointer and flanged front seal. Nothing wrong with that, but for anyone watching with an original ‘62-69 timing cover for a passenger inlet water pump, the seals are serviced with the cover removed from the engine and those early seals are much harder to remove and install from the timing cover without damaging them.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

That was my first thought, but it started leaking not too long after I originally installed that cover, making me wonder about that cover alignment like you mentioned. But I actually think it was the snout of the harmonic balancer not being cleaned thoroughly when I was last in there. Also, this seal rides in a slightly different location on the snout than the original seal, so cleaning the whole surface was really what I needed to do to begin with. It has actually been quite a while since I filmed that video and I have not had any leaks since. :)

[@SmackeysGarage]

Nice work with that seal. Definitely easier to do if removed... but more of a pain!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks! If that seal was leaking and the timing cover and water pump gaskets were old, I would have pulled all that stuff because you're correct, it's easier to do the seal when it's off the car. :)

[@DRTE22]

Super informative, thank you. About to begin this on my 351w

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Cool! Maybe double check which type of seal your timing cover accepts before tearing everything apart? I'd hate to see you get in there with the wrong seal and realize the timing cover has to come off and you need a different seal. :)

[@DRTE22]

So after watching this and a few other videos I decided I’m going to find the casting number, properly ID everything and then replace the whole timing cover, seal, and harmonic balancer with the correct cover & parts as I suspect the timing cover is off an older engine on a newer block. That way I’ll know for sure what everything is, and that it’s all new.

[@DRTE22]

From what I’ve seen most all the SBF motors use this same seal and even timing cover (yours looks identical) someone even told me the 289, 302, and 351 use the same block. Liked and subscribed btw thank you again

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I only bring this up because my motor had the "old" style where the seal has to go in from the back side of the cover, meaning it has to come off the block along with the water pump. This newer style timing cover was offered on these motors in the early '80s, so that's why they seem to be the more common cover. You should be able to get everything you need to make this a pain free install. Good luck! :)

[@chrisf8176]

Awesome video. Thank you for making it!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

My pleasure!

[@jamesbeckwith780]

Tip. Put some grease in the grove where the spring is so it pop out while hammering the seal in. And yes that spring does pop out.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Good tip, I really don't want to go chasing that thing down in the oil pan. :)

[@djschives4673]

Great video, Thanks needed this for my project on the go! 🤝

[@AndyKruseChannel]

No problem 👍

[@davepreston5207]

several companies make a stainless sleeve to put over the surface to cover the grooves, i've used these on many sbf's to prevent repeat problems like you appear to be experiencing,, without the sleeve, i would have used whichever new seal was different height than the seal that you took off to change where the seal rides on the surface

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I did this to be able to service this seal without needing to take the timing cover off next time.

[@warusweims]

The red stuff on the outside of the seal is called, "Bore tite". At least that's what SKF calls their green coating. I'm sure National has their own trade name for it.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yeah, I figured there was a fancy name for it. :)

[@brianevans656]

Too clean...too new..too easy.. As Lee Iacocca once said. "..just buy a new one!"

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Sometimes it's easier to just buy new. :)

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

Way to think ahead with the 302 timing cover. Way more work to get that out the back side.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I have to give credit to Thunderhead289, I watched one of his videos quite a while back about this very thing, figured I'd do it that way if I ever needed to replace my timing cover. It worked out just like he said. :)

[@AlfsMustangGarage]

@@AndyKruseChannel nice! He has some good helpful tips.

[@swooshdave]

Keep an eye on that harmonic balancer. The rubber elastomer on yours looked serviceable for now but they aren’t expensive. Did the new seal do the trick?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yeah, that balancer will probably need to go. Seal is good.

[@iGThomas]

Hello Andy thanks for the very instructional video! I have a possible dumb question.. Do you need to drain the oil before replacing the seal?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

If you have the timing cover where the seal can be removed from the front, then no, you can leave the oil in the pan. However, if you have the timing cover where the seal can only be removed from the back side of the timing cover, then it's usually a good idea to drain the oil and drop the pan. This is because the oil pan gasket is also sealed on the bottom of the timing cover, not just the block. Most cork-style gaskets have separate pieces that are just for the timing cover, so it can be resealed when you're done, but if you drop anything down into the oil while you're removing the timing cover, you'd have to drop the pan to fix that issue. Good luck, you've got this!! :)

[@Ronniinskeep-x8c]

Thankyou

[@AndyKruseChannel]

You’re welcome 😊

[@mikepatton8367]

I have an old timing cover where they installed the seal from the rear. (66 fairlane). Could I dig out the old seal from the front and debur the lip off from the front and then install this style seal all without taking off the timing cover (from the front)?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Honestly I think it would be really hard to do what you just described. That lip the seal is up against that you want to remove is thick, and the end of the crankshaft will be in your way. Also, you'll risk getting aluminum shavings down in the oil pan during that whole process. If you like the simplicity of accessing that front seal down the road, you're better off buying the correct type of timing cover and putting this seal in. That way you'll be in the spot you want to be next time you want to service that seal. :)

[@mikepatton8367]

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks

[@rosemcbirney5123]

Part number for that seal

[@AntiMaxer]

i may be wrong but im almost positive 1983 and before use the rear seal and 83 after use the front seal on the timing covers *edit* unless you buy the updated aftermarket timing covers then itll be the insert from front seals nmw

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Correct, the timing cover I used is the later model, specifically so I could use the seal that installs from the front, without the need to remove the cover. :)

[@mars_mystic_2320]

How can I tell what seal I have before I start the project, whether it’s in front of or behind the timing cover?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

If you have the seal that can be replaced from the outside, you'll see a wide lip that goes around the front edge (this is where you pry up on when removing). If there is no lip and it looks like your seal is sitting down inside the cover, you have the other style. You should be able to see both styles in the video, look at both timing covers I have in this video and you should be able to notice the external difference, then check your car. If your car is pre 1980 and it's the original seal, you probably have the internal piece, the kind where the timing cover has to come off to replace. Please note, that if you have the old style and you want the new style, you also need to buy the newer timing cover, like I did in this video. :)

[@Michael-Homerepair76]

Andy,, I have a question and I did look through the feed for my question and didn’t find it previously answered. I’m working on a Chevy not a Ford, but it’s been my understanding not to put oil between the harmonic balancer and the seal as it seals to the spinning shaft of the balancer. If you apply oil to the new sealThat will lead to failure of the new seal. Any thoughts on this? Thank you Mike

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Hmm, the seal is going to get oil on it once it is placed in the engine, so...... If someone is relying on the microscopic part of the seal that is dry (where the oil is not touching it) to do all the work, then I think they're in for a surprise. :)

[@TheGordybombers]

I've got oil all over the passenger side suspension. Thinking it's the front seal. Is the one you have linked in the description for a 289? or 302?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yes, the seal in the video is what I reference in the description. 🙂

[@shafferjoe1962]

Does this work on the 1994 Ford 302 / 5.0? Thanks

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Replacing the front seal is more or less the same process, but I don’t know if the timing cover is the exact same. They moved the seal to be serviced from the front back in the 70s, but I don’t know how long they kept that timing cover design. 🙂

[@magz7274]

So what did you ACTUALLY do to get the seal in? I can’t get a swing on it. Following your video to get this done but you skipped the most difficult part.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

A healthy dose of patience was the first thing I used. I have a 5lb sledge that I turned sideways so that I could "swing" it farther. I used an old oil filter socket that was shallow enough to give me some room, but deep enough to clear the nose of the crank shaft. Lots of small hits and it eventually was driven into place.

[@magz7274]

@@AndyKruseChannel yeah, I think I just need to get a bigger hammer. Can’t seem to get enough “mmph” with mine. Thanks Andy! I hope my question didn’t come off as being a jerk. I’m just very frustrated lol

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Haha, no problem. With the Rad in place, there really isn't much room to install the seal easily. Just in case it wasn't covered, you need to have the same style timing cover that I have as the OEM covers for my year (and years around mine) require the seal to be installed from the rear of the timing cover.

[@magz7274]

@@AndyKruseChannel yep I do. My 65 has a 302 in it. Same style seal as yours. I’ll be able to get it done tomorrow. Sometimes it helps to walk away and regroup for a day.

[@andreapassaretti5655]

Hi, the bolts to create the leverage point are 15/16 ?here in Italy I have just to search 15/16 bolts or there are other specifications?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Which bolts are you referring to?

[@andreapassaretti5655]

Minute 1:48​@@AndyKruseChannel

[@andreapassaretti5655]

@@AndyKruseChannel at the 1.48 of the video the three bolts on the pulley. I have the 6 cylinder in line 1967 and the 3 socket are free...

[@AndyKruseChannel]

The 15/16" is the size of the socket to remove the large crank bolt. The two bolts I thread into the harmonic balancer are the same ones that secure the pulley for the alternator. I do not recall their size, but they're the same ones from the pulley. :)

[@andreapassaretti5655]

@@AndyKruseChannel yes but my belt is located directly on the pulley,my 6 cylinders haven't the other part before the pulley. For this reason i need to know the size of the bolts

[@rajarsidhu9637]

You have to drain the oil first right ?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

It depends, if your front main seal is installed into the back side of the timing cover, you may find it easier to drain the oil and remove the oil pan since the timing cover needs to come off. If your seal installs from the front, you can leave the oil and pan alone, swap out the seal. :)

[@rajarsidhu9637]

@@AndyKruseChannelhow can I tell if the seal is installed from the outside or inside. Thank you

[@AndyKruseChannel]

@@rajarsidhu9637 If you have the original timing cover, it goes in the backside. If you can see the rim of the seal like what I have in this video, it's in the front. In this video, I had already upgraded to the timing cover style that allows for the seal to be installed on the front side.

[@rajarsidhu9637]

@@AndyKruseChannel thanks I replaced mine today thanks for the video and help.

[@teamhpg1043]

Very helpful but maybe cut back on the intro music and let’s get down to business 😎

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks