How to Replace the Gearcase on a Maytag Vertical Modular Washer (VMW)

[@signedelacroix7213]

Some other videos don't remove the tub and it's very hard to put back the gear case. WIth the tub out, it's a breeze. Thanks for the video.

[@tracyhurst4393]

This video is exactly what I needed...except that I found it after I watched all of the other KZbin videos and took it apart myself. My problem is that I need to change the bearings in the gearcase and I don't know if that is possible. Otherwise, the gearcase seems okay. Also the gearcase is too expensive for an eight year old dryer and I don't see any that are available anyway.

[@UnchokedStroke]

Definitely need a 2x4 a small jack some blocks and socket or ratchet adapter to push the tub off the shaft and making that setup makes it longer than the “hour” it takes to do this repair.

[@marshallmort3190]

For those having a hard time with removing the tub. You can use a board that bridges across the tub (i used a 3/4"breaker bar which was 21"long instead of a 2x4 cut to length.) I measured wall to wall inside the tub to get an idea of the length I needed. After it was most of the way off I put the bolt back in the end and threaded it down several rotations then repeated the process in the video I posted here, this got me the extra separation. Also be aware that the car jack rod may extend far enough to contact the inner wall of the tub. Keep an eye on it My problem now is when I assemble everything after replacing the gear case the tub sits too low and I feel like I should shim it up. m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYXTh3SGrdtspLs

[@signedelacroix7213]

Did that and did not moved. When I used a tsp of vegetable oil, it popped in 5 sec.

[@tankdathomie]

Any tips on if the gear case is stuck to the tub? I can’t get it to come off. I saw some rust but dang.

[@searspartsdirect]

Once you remove the spin basket and gear case bolts, the only thing holding the gear case in the tub is the tub seal. If detergent residue is causing the seal to stick to the shaft, you can likely break the shaft free by hitting the top of the gear case shaft with a rubber mallet. If the spin basket is stuck to the gear case shaft, corrosion and detergent residue are likely causing the spin basket to stick to the shaft. You can spray some penetrating oil on the shaft to help release the spin basket from the gear case shaft. Let the penetrating oil soak in for an hour or so--then try to lift out the spin basket.

[@joehall3388]

My washer was hit on top of controls , it will turn on .fill Then not go into washing cycle all I hear is a hum

[@Paiadakine]

My washer wash making lots of noise when in the spin cycle. You cannot replace just a bearing, so you have to replace the whole transmission. My washer is slightly different in that the agitator/impeller is held down by a spanner nut (aluminum) , squeezing a drive block, not with a clip as shown at 1:58. Otherwise everything else is the same. This video shows the transmission easily sliding out and onto the drum. Mine was all FUBARed with the aluminium corroded to the shaft. I had to take a cutoff wheel to the spanner nut and drive block and to the hub and get all that out. Even then the transmission shaft would not budge. I had to hammer the shaft with a 2 lb sledge to shove it down. Problem is I broke the water pump plastic housing. So now I'm waiting on a water pump from ebay. Took be three hours to remove the transmission using lots of cutting and hammering. The installation of the tranmission back in to the drum is straight forward and took less than hour. I cleaned up the drum where the seal and the shaft inserts.

[@Paiadakine]

+Pay Way One other thing if your washer makes a grating noise when agitating, try tightening the clutch bolt on the big white plastic pulley at the base. The pulley is under the white plastic slotted cover.

[@grisi24]

This is what I am noticing right now. Aluminum spanner nut that is not going to move in one piece. Time to trash it. It is not worth repairing. It sounds like my bearing is bad. It started with the shifter module but that lasted 2-3 washes. I have a MVWC400XW3

[@whiskeysmoke6500]

any tricks or tips on removing the adjatator? i removered the shaft bolt but this sucker wont budge. tried prying.

[@waynea4686]

Whiskey Smoke Corrosion or detergent residue on the motor shaft is probably causing the agitator to stick. Try this - grab the top rim of the stainless steel spin basket inside the washer tub and jerk the spin basket upward to break the agitator free of the motor shaft. The spin basket should have enough play so that you can use it to free up the agitator.

[@61JWolf]

I run a 3 foot long wire that is strong but not too thick into the seam between the impeller and basket and then pull it tight so that it slips beneath the impeller and then pull up on it. Also helps to pour some piping hot water at the center of the impeller.

[@cynthiawright4936]

pour dish detergent and let it soak for 15 minutes than remove.

[@MichaelAHall-ur1eg]

My washer spins but won’t agitate. Clicks and barely moves agitator during wash cycle but spins fine. How do you test the gear case? Can I spin the pulley by hand in either direction to test?

[@treesandthings8853]

Did you ever resolve this issue? My Maytag is doing this currently. Thanks.

[@johnnyb7560]

​@@treesandthings8853sounds like the shift actuator needs to be replaced.

[@Twix2013PSN]

Bolt that holds the impeller to the drive shaft does not come off that easily I've been trying on my maytag MVWC415EW0 Washer for hours

[@searspartsdirect]

Spray the bolt with penetrating oil to help dissolve corrosion and free up the bolt. Let the penetrating oil soak in for an hour then try to remove the bolt. If that doesn’t help, then you can try using an impact wrench to remove the bolt. If you still can’t get the bolt out, then you’ll likely need to have a service technician remove the bolt and repair the washer. Here’s a link to schedule service in case you need it: www.searshomeservices.com/ If you need more help, let us know.

[@SweetMami33]

Can't pull the wash basket out feels like it's "caught" on something.

[@marshallmort3190]

You can use a board that bridges across the tub (i used a 3/4"breaker bar which was 21"long instead of a 2x4 cut to length.) I measured wall to wall inside the tub to get an idea of the length I needed. After it was most of the way off I put the bolt back in the end and threaded it down several rotations then repeated the process in the video I posted here, this got me the extra separation. Also be aware that the car jack rod may extend far enough to contact the inner wall of the tub. Keep an eye on it My problem now is when I assemble everything after replacing the gear case the tub sits too low and I feel like I should shim it up. m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYXTh3SGrdtspLs Then

[@SweetMami33]

@Marshall Mort I already have my machine fixed lol it was kinda rusted on to the old gear case

[@lcshotta]

I'm about to drill out the machine pressed stamps to gain access to the bearings

[@lcshotta]

Success, just need a new gear shaft seal

[@msw812]

Al Coholic My shaft splines are worn too bad. Can shaft and bearings/seal be bought alone? Lookin to avoid buying whole new gear case

[@stephengoad3091]

Yes I successfully replace the bearings in this transmission just be prepared to have a shop prince available to you and remember you have to have it big enough to fit the entire shaft top to bottom with room to spare and a propane torch for heating the o-ring seal sleeve that's on the shaft above the bearing. Once I was able to get the bearing and sleeve to move it came off freely with the press. Then just flipped the shaft over and press the new bearing number 6006 2RS and seal sleeve on all together. But you do want to take apart the gear housing off the bottom of the shaft which is made out of plastic. Be prepared for some oil spillage. To get to the shaft you will have to drill out the spot welds on your housing. and to rebuild the transmission just drill out the holes and install bolts and nuts, just try to get a flat-headed Phillips bolt to go on top since it has to fit up to the flat plastic bottom of the tube. hopefully this will help someone not have to buy the $200 transmission gear assembly.

[@kennethkeough3622]

@@stephengoad3091, I found the bearing you specified, but where should I get the seals from?

[@stephengoad3091]

I had to go to advance Auto parts and bring the old seal and had them match it up. But most places will not want to do this because it takes time. If you can measure the seal inner and outer you can probably look on the internet and get a part number and look it up in an auto parts store. That's my suggestion.

[@10degreesbtdc]

Nothing said about replacing both seals, WHICH IS WHY THE BEARING WENT BAD IN THE FIRST PLACE! LEAKY SEALS RUINED THE TUB BEARING! NO MORE MAYTAG/WHIRLPOOL/KENMORE or any others made by same crappy company.

[@bobfortino7274]

Never mind about where the capacitor goes and how to remove the impeller...I just wanted to see the pretty technician's face

[@ET-fm6mp]

this video was useless it didn't even show you how to change the gearbox

[@crunchybobjones]

Don't think you noticed that they removed and replaced the gearbox...