How to Replace Wheel Bearing and Hub 01-12 Ford Escape

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New Wheel Bearing & Hub Kit from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASH...
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a worn out, vibrating or groaning wheel bearing hub. This video is applicable to 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12 Ford Escape
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2008 Ford Escape
2009 Ford Escape
2010 Ford Escape
2011 Ford Escape
2012 Ford Escape
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver 1aau.to/oXc/1AX...
• Pry Bar 1aau.to/ooZ/1AX...
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/oP6/1AX...
• 18mm Socket 1aau.to/owG/1AX...
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/owG/1AX...
• 8mm Socket 1aau.to/oP6/1AX...
• Ball Joint Press
• Brake Caliper Compressor Tool. Single Piston. Screw Style. 1aau.to/ok/1AXA...
• Brake Caliper Hanger 1aau.to/oca/1AX...
• Pickle Fork
• Channel-Lock Pliers 1aau.to/odk/1AX...
• Side Cutters
• Snap Ring Pliers
• 1-1/2 Inch Socket
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar 1aau.to/ofN/1AX...
• Ratchet 1aau.to/o3P/1AX...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oEj/1AX...
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Bungee Cord
• Cloth Rags 1aau.to/oiM/1AX...
• Rust Penetrant
• Sandpaper
• 7mm Allen Wrench 1aau.to/oax/1AX...
• Center Punch 1aau.to/odE/1AX...
• File
• Floor Jack 1aau.to/oro/1AX...
• Hammer 1aau.to/oqe/1AX...
• Jack Stands 1aau.to/opQ/1AX...
• Pick 1aau.to/omo/1AX...
• Wire Brush 1aau.to/ofK/1AX...
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Check out our playlist:
Ford Escape 2008-2012 2nd Gen: • Ford Escape 2008-2012 ...
Ford Auto Repair Videos: • Ford Auto Repair Videos
For More Info visit us at 1aau.to/h/aiw/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[@1AAuto]

√ *Watch the Video* √ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto √ *Do it Yourself* √ *Save Money*

[@kathleenhurley-caffrey7952]

just put new parts on like he did

[@ryantaube6546]

I like how the rusty spindle turned new.

[@williamseevers897]

Nice how he started with the stock knuckle but ended up with a new one in the end

[@robertmurray6155]

Good video but it would be more realistic if you were allowed to weave a tapestry of profanity while fighting it to come apart. Otherwise good job!

[@Locdawg2009]

Facts lol

[@nicholas2275]

Great video, other videos were weak, but this showed me it's harder and I lack tools and the time, taking it in to a shop, but I have done at least 5 other repairs with your videos, spark plugs, wheel sensors, fan switch, o2 sensors and various lights, thanks guys

[@sergiogonzalez4284]

your presentation deserves a five star rating.!!!! thanks so much for sharing it

[@pagandaniel195]

They do sell entire knuckles with bearings pre-installed as well. Makes it a million times easier especially if it is rusted as bad as this vehicle in the video looks. I tend to replace entire parts to cut down on my time repairing my own vehicle.

[@gregweaver9153]

This is one of the best instructional videos I've seen. Informative, to the point, and good camera work. The video is A-1

[@DinkusPony]

Thanks for this comment. They aren’t even that expensive either. Screw a press!

[@blackmacgyver9965]

Where can you order the complete knuckle with bearings and hub

[@llahdor]

If you notice when he reinstalls it it is a new knuckle

[@dhal6271]

One of the best vds ever. Thanks. I was able to tear down both front ends in just 2 hours. That all joint tool did wonders. keep in mind the ball joint bolt is a capture bolt..it has to be completely removed.

[@orionsimerl6539]

I'm doing this job tomorrow, but based on other videos I've watched this guy makes the job much harder than it should be. Most people will break the sensor off trying to get it out, it's better to leave the sensor attached to the knuckle and diconnect from the engine compartment. Most people don't have the tools to take the ball joint off, and it is much less efficient to take the ball joint off first even with those tools. If you do the ball joint last everything else is out of the way. You can spread the gap tap the ball joint down and pull the knuckle off of the ball joint.

[@Mr_Meowingtons]

they like to sell there tools too

[@michaelrehkop4817]

Local parts stores rent the tools needed to do these services.

[@michaelrehkop4817]

Tap the ball joint down and you'll risk destroying the rubber grease sleeve. Tear that and you're replacing the ball joint unless you happen to be lucky enough to have a car that Moog happens to make replacement grease sleeves.

[@wyattflp6163]

Good video thank you. Im going to buy me a press next paycheck, something Ive needed to make things easier on me.

[@fabio40]

You don't have to remove the anti-rattle clip and separate the caliper from the bracket. Just undo the two bracket bolts and remove the who brake assembly in one piece.

[@michaelrehkop4817]

That's correct. The reason for the kind of dismantle we see in the video is because not everyone is equipped with the strength to lift and hold with one hand the caliper and it's bracket in order to hang that assembly on the strut coil. As a seasoned (almost 40 years) Senior Master Auto Tech, 11 Current certs., and auto shop owner I would have recommended the rotors and pads be replaced and if there were any okay whatsoever in the ball joint it would carried the same recommendation. If a customer didn't want to replace at least the ball joint I would not have warranted the parts or the work because all of these parts work together. If the ball joint is bad it can cause premature failure of the hub and bearing assembly and vise versa. If I were a gambling man I'd wager that front suspension, drive axle and steering assembly had never been taken apart as far as the tech in the video did. From the looks of it brakes were the only thing replaced prior to this video .

[@albertoromo2012]

This is the BEST video I have seen on this matter. Very calm,clear and professional. thank you so mUch 1A AUTO

[@stevevigh5068]

Great video. I also noticed the new knuckle. Personally I would support the inner race of the bearing when re installing the spindle to avoid loading the bearing up with pressure when installing spindle. Cheers!

[@lp1292]

Just did this whole job without a pickle fork, ball joint separator & a press. Let me tell you I learned about 11 new methods today into tonight😂 thanks for the help still very informative

[@dhal6271]

One of the best videos ever. Shop wants $1500 to do this job plus parts

[@stevek5600]

The music is so chill in the background man, and this is the best video I found so far! Hopefully I can getaway with a breaker bar on the 18mm nut, I don't have a impact

[@mr.y1224]

Kind of makes me chuckle as you start off only replacing the hub and the bearing but it's very clear that after you installed the bearing you end up replacing the entire steering knuckle, bearing and hub. So it's likely your bearing installation didn't go as smoothly as you would like us to believe.

[@BobFarmer-m6k]

Thank you for this video, you saved me over 500 dollars if i would have taken it to a shop. i didnt want to mess with the bearings and a press so i just bought the hub and and assembly all assembles for 118 dollars, shop quoted me 650. your video was very accurate except my escape wasnt nearly as rusty and came apart easily with a breaker bar.

[@sergiogonzalez4284]

best tutorial video I have seeing so far. thank you so very much .

[@chien-shengtsai8626]

Very relaxed and assuring presenter, and careful mechanic. 1AAA!

[@stuartschwenke6656]

so professional. nice slow. methodical. well explained.

[@rnrudynh1427]

Funny how the knuckle and dust shield became BRAND NEW once being reinstalled. Good video. Ford and their designers' geneuis.

[@1AAuto]

+John lombard Thanks for the feedback!

[@kameeleon32]

Lol!!

[@SoundGuyDavo]

That pinch bolt came out...just like that?! Whaaaat!

[@beyonkawolak5773]

For reallllllllll

[@MRSROCKINROBIN]

Done mine a year ago on my 2003 Tribute, dude if that's how you work on vehicles stay away from mine... You made this process look much more difficult than what it really is! Merrie~Merrie

[@michaelrehkop4817]

If you remove the bearing and there is a part of the race still attached to the hub you can use MAP gas and torch tip to heat it up and then tap the race with a screwdriver and hammer. Be careful not to score the hub shaft. Or you can use a cutoff tool or thin grinder wheel on an hand held grinder. Cut slits in the race being careful not to score the hub shaft. Then use a wide bladed screwdriver and hammer. Begin to tap in the race in various places and it should begin to move. You may have to apply map gas to keep the metal hot but take your time and you'll be just fine. Never use a ball joint fork tool if you don't plan on replacing the ball joints. The fork will quickly and easily damage the grease boot and then you'll be stuck having to replace the ball joint if you cant find a grease boot sold separately. Grease Boots for the ball joint generally are not available for sale individually from the ball joint. Most of the time they come as a set. Unless you're a seasoned mechanic don't try any shortcuts like mentioned by another poster stated. It's always best to remove things the way the manufacturer recommends if you're not a mechanic and trying to DIY this job. A ball joint service kit can be rented from your local parts store as well as the wheel bearing press kit. If you happen to have a work bench mounted hydraulic press like in the video then it will be much easier. My bonafides: I'm a Senior Master Auto Technician with 11 ASE Certifications, almost 4 decades of auto service experience and a 6 bay auto repair shop business owner.

[@pablopicaro7649]

24:21 A new knuckle suddenly appeared

[@jasona8396]

Very thorough, excellently done video. Thank you very much!

[@GettinDirtyOffRoad]

Thank you for the video, I just made one myself but really did not know where to start or how far I needed to go.

[@MTDixonSr]

Nice job> Love the 1A Auto help videos. You have been accurate on all your fix it videos. I have a ford escape and its old enough that it now needs work on occasion and your videos are so helpful, and accurate. Thank You 🙏 😊😊

[@1AAuto]

+Mark Dixon Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@cb7pwn]

really good video guys! so much more work than on my f150 to get the bearing out holy hell lol

[@1AAuto]

+cb7pwn Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@rsonweb2060]

This looks like the way to go instead of just replacing the lower ball joint. It doesn't totally change the front end alignment.

[@teddydabear242]

Why can't I find a conscientious mechanic like this?

[@deniseview4253]

Thank you for sharing. Very much needed help.

[@scottstaudacher7735]

On a 2002 Escape there are a few differences such as the slide bolts are a T45 not a 7mm or as he said when installing 6mm, also the pinch bolt for the lower ball joint is 15mm on the back side and the nut is 14mm not sure what year the video was done on but there are a few different things i found on a 02 just thought i would share.

[@christopher6161]

False. the slide bolts are 7mm but T45 does work. These measurements also vary depending on if the car has had aftermarket parts installed.

[@scotthewitt6047]

Thanks for the video very detailed

[@1AAuto]

+SCOTT HEWITT Thank you for your feedback!

[@jlb8696]

You get lots to learn boy

[@protreeclimber3080]

What a great video thanks so much

[@paulimendoza4998]

Bet if no one was filming he’d be going crazy 😝😆

[@jdm_eh9367]

What the heck? Did anybody notice that during the reinstall, the knuckle looks brand new with not an ounce of rust to be seen? Hmm........

[@MrKurber]

why would it be rusty if its brand new

[@tylerdarnell921]

I came to the comments just because of it. Lol

[@1AAuto]

+jdm_ eh9 When we do repairs on certain vehicles we will do multiple part replacements at the same time but segment this out into separate install videos to utilize the vehicle being on a lift and taken apart.

[@dimitrishulaiya4074]

Me too!))

[@thomasschaefer3412]

New slotted rotors and all. :)

[@ivantovar5017]

Might as well just buy the one with the knuckle .I thought about doing this thinking it would be easier but i was wrong.

[@JimmerJamesKM]

THANK YOU SO MUCH for this concise video! You saved me a fortune as far as I am concerned! It truly means the means the world to me! (Only thing was the "Torx" 7mm Caliper bolts which I had trouble seeing if it was hex, "Star shaped") So this guy did an ACE job of making the procedure CLEAR!!! friggin awesome, Website bookmarked!

[@1AAuto]

+Jimmer Mackinnon Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@johnkapel2128]

Excellent how to video! AAA+++

[@michaelrehkop4817]

When removing any of the bolts associated with the teardown procedures it is not just wise but a good practice to soak all bolts & nuts with a catalyst like PB Blaster that the man in the video is using. I was a bit taken back by the fact that he didn't bother to soak the speed sensor bolt at the head and the exposed threads at the end of the bolt. These bolts are known to shear off at the head which then means you're going to have to use a bolt extractor to get the rest of the bolt out of the steering knuckle. Whenever working with a car or truck that's as rusted as the one in this video it's always good to presoak all fasteners (bolts/nuts) with a rust penetrator catalyst and let it all sit and soak in . Another thing you can do is when you have speed sensor bolts out you should clean up the threads with a wire brush. Then put a small amount of "anti-seize" lubricant on the threads. Before installing the sensor put the bolt in it's hole and run the bolt all the way down and back out a few times. The reason for this is it helps to keep rust from depositing on the threads and making it difficult to remove. During initial tear down if you feel any kind of resistance in trying to loosen the bolt stop immediately and once again spray with rust inhibitor. I've been a mechanic for nearly 40 years and one of the best things I've seen used to loosen stubborn bolts, dowel pins, etc is just a little bit of break fluid. It does an amazing job. There's another product called Fastenal that is in a very small aerosol can about 3 inches tall and about a quarter in diameter. Use this sparingly as it's very expensive but will penetrate rust easily and quickly. There's also another thing you can do that requires a can of MAP gas (yellow can), a propane tip and a candle. Heat up the bolt/nut with the map gas until the bolt/but it pretty hot (gets red) and then take your candle stick and liberally run the candle around the bolt head or nut and allow the wax to seep in behind bolt head or nut. The wax will literally separate the rust from the bolt threads and you'll be able to remove a stuck bolt. This works especially well where a steel bolt is threaded into an aluminum housing or vise versa an aluminum bolt threaded into a steal housing. Aluminum oxidation can at times be tougher than a rusted steel bolt in a steel housing.

[@patrickhubbard5675]

How did he get that knuckle so clean it looks new?

[@that_won_cat]

Sellin caliper hangers eh? Wouldn't happen to have some blinker fluid as well would you ? --asking for a friend 😂

[@Muscle-and-hustle-garage]

Did no one notice that after he pressed in the new bearing to the rusty steering knuckle he installed a brand new shiny steering Knuckle instead ? 😅

[@salvadorjohnson5956]

Me gusto mucho todo esta bien detallado bien esplicado medidas de los dados y libras gracias por esta video por que lo necesito para areglar mi ford escape te felicito

[@1AAuto]

+Salvador Johnson Thank you!

[@fasteddie8782]

Very good video I learned an awful lot thank you

[@franksloane9579]

excellent job my man.

[@1AAuto]

+Frank Sloane Thanks for the great feedback, much appreciated!

[@javieracosta5528]

Look at all that rust…. So glad I Live in Texas….

[@Mr_Meowingtons]

lets all take a sec to thank FORD for not using a bolt in HUB

[@emanuelblanchette2940]

its crazy to think the only thing holding the wheel to the car is friction, mind meld

[@edgrigsby8610]

Ok... during reinstall, it was a new knuckle and hub. Do they sell new knuckles with hubs, so I don't have to press bearings? I don't have a press.

[@modkot1155]

You can get knuckles with the hubs but they're going to go upwards of $200. I took my knuckle and hub to a shop that had a press and they ran me $40 to press it all in. You can also get a bearing press kit which consists of a disc that threads onto a large punch and you use that with a hammer to slowly drive the bearing in

[@andresalonso637]

Man that salt be eating the cars where it snows but someone has to to the job

[@luisherrera3896]

Great video, I just have one doubt, how do you know if you need to replace the hub too? I mean how to know if the hub is damaged or wear out, thanks for advance

[@wooddawg4868]

When I replaced my front tire bearing I just bought two new knuckles as a pair for $200 bucks with the new bearings already pressed in.

[@brandono.4945]

This is definitely good for a DIY'R. It would take alot less time with an impact but, sometimes you can make mistakes and break something with alot of torque. Also does it look like you replaced the whole knuckle? Just a tip with rusted parts. I've used Fluid Film when putting on new parts. Stuff works amazing! Thanks for the video!

[@1AAuto]

+Brandon O. Thank you!

[@paulferrara9079]

no music needed. good video. Saw a few small cheats. : )) Did I miss the use of anti-size ?

[@kentholmes3648]

What kind of sound does the wheel bearing make when going bad? I have a 2005 Ford Escape.

[@olenaerhardt7725]

Thank you for the very informative film. I have 2 question. In some films you can see the authors lubricating bolts (knuckle -to-strut) with thread lock. Also some lubricate axle before they put a hub on it. Is it better to do it that way? And how do you know for sure how much inside you go with the hub (when you press the hub into the knuckle)? I pressed it in with Harbor Fright press I have, but not sure 100% if it is done correctly. Seems I can press it more inside, but I'm afraid to break something proceeding more. Can you determine exactly somehow that depth?

[@ColdGamersProdutions]

"just a little tap here" *HAMMERS WITH THE MIGHT OF THOR* "yes just a happy little tap"

[@jamiebertrand3282]

Do you have a video of doing the rear of 4x4 and all wheel drive of an 09?

[@blazewood3931]

Question can I take out a 2006 wheel barring and slap it on my 2011 ford escape?

[@rkhale02]

Will it work without the sensor? Don't really care about a light in the dash being on/off as long as it actually works

[@Gumbie40]

Is there an already assembled option for a 2004 ford escape. I don't have access to a press to press the bearing in/out

[@The_Roblox_Viedo]

Ok when taking the tie rod bolt out if it move with the nut is the tie rod still good

[@paulferrara9079]

great video. not sure why it needed music? be better without it. : )

[@1AAuto]

+Paul Ferrara Thanks for the feedback!

[@rexcycle4135]

Music is way intense!!!!!!

[@supercamario]

Why would the bearing move when pressing the hub in if the snapring is in place?

[@paulimendoza4998]

2008 escape has a 9 mm hex or allen socket not 7mm or 6mm as stated in the video best of luck?

[@bigschwingdady]

Thank you for all the very helpful videos. Does the bearing have a ABS encoder ? or is not necessary for the abs system to work.

[@codygorman691]

It uses the CV axle tone ring.

[@gottosahani7571]

You said for the new bearing doesn't manner witch way goes in so what about the abs sensor

[@jamesreed7358]

Good video. You worked on a typically rusty pos. How about trading the music for some good old profanity :)

[@creativeminds9973]

That’s an awful lot of rust for a 2012! I’m guessing the salty roads during winter cause this? Thank God I live in South Tx and my 2011 escape is flawless with no rust whatsoever!

[@JSTRAK-yl8bq]

CreativeMinds99 I live in Alaska and we literally throw salt on the road during winter and mine is no where near that bad. Hahah. And mine is a 09. It’s crazy how bad this one is.

[@bellasstore5438]

Can you help me I just installed new weel bearimgs and hubs. Both a worse than the factory. Loose ,roars. Just not al all good.

[@reembright4231]

What if we don’t have a press or any of these things in a shop?

[@gennarohock1572]

When you press the hub into the bearing you don’t need more grease

[@samwhite9894]

Break the axle nut loose before lifting the car.way easier

[@trakkerp4202]

"Get creative" to remove the bearing, there's actually a press adapter and even a bearing removal kit for this aftermarket. Besides that its a decent video

[@charlespatrick8650]

sure that axel nut isn't 32mm? everything else is metric, why would that nut be different!?

[@teds4983]

It is, had to buy one. Also if he just had the car in park he didn't need the bar. Thats some rookie shit

[@orionmengistu452]

blessd u

[@1AAuto]

+orion Belete Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@searaydrivingguy]

i changed my drivers side front wheel bearing in my 2008 ford explorer limited v8 awd but the throbbing is still there any ideas?

[@MSMgamer190]

searaydrivingguy sound like you put the bearing in backwards or destroyed the magnetic stripe on the inner side

[@searaydrivingguy]

@@MSMgamer190 it turned out to be the passenger side bearing oh well they are both done driving perfect now

[@jamesebbs9021]

What did you muck up to have to replace the entire knuckle LMAO

[@morphinebaby4671]

The write up has 1 1/2" socket..the video and the axle nut are 1 1/4".

[@buder5116]

22:42 new snap ring dosent haev the hole for the tool to be pull out wut???? aslo at 23:00 didn't you say earlier to not push in the center of the bearing ? is there something in the middle under to prevent that ? Edit2: nvm its said at 23:40

[@cr10001]

The end of the snap ring has a cutaway so you can get a screwdriver in to lever it out.

[@rythmman84]

Never hammer a ball joint on the shaft, use a separating tool.

[@bmlaforge]

They must've hired you from Mavis..

[@kentowakai1234]

I don't understand why you don't remove the brake all in 1 piece by just removing the caliper bracket bolt only. Educate me please.

[@tomorrow6474]

Noticed mechanic pressed in new bearings on old hub ... but is using a new hub with bearings back into car ... why?

[@charlespatrick8650]

use two pickle forks, one on top of the other, and the ball joint will come right out, pound one in, then pound the other in right on top

[@1AAuto]

+Charles Patrick Thanks for the tip!

[@mlkelittle1413]

Why does your knuckle new?

[@ryansauer6413]

yeah so I just took my brakes off by unbolting the 2 large main 18mm? bolts on the back I did not remove the caliper bolts at all is that ok?

[@JohnB28]

Same. It worked fine.

[@jeremiegrund]

Perfectly fine

[@ladeedaa]

Why not remove the caliper and pads in one piece? Does anyone know?

[@ladeedaa]

Does anyone know this?

[@ProDMiner]

cant move through the video without a ad every single time, knock that off. Also the pinch bolt, I took my air chisle with a pointy tip, then a socket, and then put the nut back on, and drove it out that way, was rusted to hell so basically stuck. Took a bit but finally popped. Doing my hubs today did the control arms the other day.

[@Btknows75]

So everything has been removed and replaced and he doesn't get dirty. Show real life dude

[@robertberin4872]

My escape makes wheel noises when I drive straight or to the right, but if I turn left or drive done the hwy in a slight left hand bank the noises are gone. Anyone know what it could be?

[@1AAuto]

+Robert Berin Thanks for checking us out! We recommend having a local mechanic take a look!

[@brianbaldwin6745]

That housing comes off, while holding the the caliper and both pads. This guy is adding about 45 minutes-to-1 hour of work to some poor shade tree mechanic out there.

[@danieltaylor9761]

Caliper > than 10 years old Should be rebuilt. YOU SHOULD BLEED THE BRAKES AUTOMATICALLY TO GET THE MUD AND RUST AND GENERALLY FLUSH SYSTEM Debris =PART OF EVERY BREAK JOB! U went to all that B.S. Work to press out the wheelbearing then you installed a New knuckle? Now you should do a wheel alignment. NOVICE WORK!

[@1AAuto]

+Daniel Taylor Thanks for the tip!

[@Tig3rj]

Careful not to get grease on the pad..as he gets grease on both pads... So what is it? At 2:35 you say 7mm allen socket.. Then at 33:32 you say 6mm allen... FYI, it should be 7mm and some Escapes it is 9mm according to FordTechMakuloco.

[@codygorman691]

You showed pressing everything out and then back in and then installed a new knuckle completely, the old one was rusted.

[@geraldwhite2912]

So.... Are y'all not aloud to use air tools at a1 ??

[@ricknoyb1613]

Air tools would be loud, otherwise I'm certain they are ALLOWED.