How to Restore Fender Deluxe Reverb Tube guitar amplifier Repair Noise volume drop Live Demo

[@mobicus1]

No reason to apologise Terry. We're all lucky to have what you do share with us, truly!

[@dengsiao]

Tony is getting better every time and today he's got the blues! Best sounding amp i heared for a long time. All the best for you.

[@susanjoy1969]

Uncle Doug and others would struggle with the way you wired the new 3 prong cord right to the AC outlet.

[@p_mouse8676]

Also with caps (as well as old tires), they are so old, they might go bad tomorrow, next week, next month, maybe next year. Worst case will damage an awful lot more, on the worst possible timing and means re-sending it for repair again as well. So it's not only you're just "selling caps", from a longevity and safety point of view it's just not wise to keep them. Like an old car, certain things just need replacement, that is just the nature of it. Nice video as always!

[@GregsGarage]

Sounds beautiful!!! You make these repairs look so easy... That is a testament to your knowledge and skill level.

[@60retired]

Never could figure out why my 67 Silverface Deluxe Reverb strain relief hole was smaller than other amps from that time period. Heyco used a 6P-1 strain relief in some 67 and later amps but it wouldn’t fit this early amp. Didn’t know some amps in 67 came with flat cords so it probably had a smaller strain relief. Had to open up the Double D hole just a tad to get the new strain relief to fit, used a Heyco 6P-4. I recommend getting the Heyco tool it adjust for multiple sizes and will not leave marks in the plastic like the plier jaws do.Thank you for posting this video, I’m going to take your advice and replace those grid caps, don’t want to loose those RCA 6L6GC black plates at 300 bucks a pop.

[@rayvoorhies7180]

I remember seeing Fender Deluxe and Princeton Reverb amps in garage sales for less than $80. Champs were $20. It was the late 70's and solid state amps were lighter and considered more reliable. A lot of boomers were cleaning out their closets. I regret not buying a dozen Fender amps and RCA replacement tubes when they were dirt cheap.

[@richardleerodgers5303]

Great Job . I have a strain relief tool bought it 30 years ago from a local TV parts shop they make the job a breeze. Love your Chassis holder

[@metalmix7773]

I'd be embarrassed to show you what I did my amp. But you live and learn and I'm going to continue to work on it. It started by replacing some tone pots when I shorted it out with some solder Wick.

[@DeadKoby]

Your approach on this amp is pretty much the same thing I would have done as the tech. Approved.

[@mymessylab]

The amp is supeb, the repair is magic and the sound is in space....what else we would need? Great job as ever.

[@worldwarwe]

I always enjoy your videos, you were a huge help to me when I built my little 5f1 champ. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us!

[@jeffreycollins7297]

Boy that amp sounds beautiful. Lots of rich overtones. Nice to be playing it through a good cabinet too. Really lets that low end come through.

[@fiddlix]

Tony just keeps getting better and better.

[@ericcollins617]

Now, that was a GREAT sounding Deluxe!!!

[@guitarpenter3357]

Thanks for Posting your videos, I Have 1968 Fender Twin Reverb that I had work done on. It had slight volume drop. Still sounded great, got it back and doesn’t sound half as good. I wish I had left it alone, they gave back all the old components.

[@rciancia]

Another quality restore/repair. DLAB is really busy these days... I hope you are having fun with these repairs... Busy = good stuff.... god bless

[@johnflower8648]

The tool you require is a strain relief gland tool made by HEYCO tools.

[@douro20]

R-29 strain relief pliers, Heyco part no. 0022. $44 at Amazon.

[@ScottyBrockway]

Heyco also makes the chassis punches for the strain reliefs so you can make proper holes instead of hacky drilling/dremeling.

[@billmiller7138]

I bought the Proskit version for $14 on Amazon cause I only need them a few times a year. I'd buy the Heycos for daily use though. I made do without either for 40 years.

[@donniefisk2252]

Does anyone know the exact name of the soldering iron used to solder to the chassis? Thanks !

[@douro20]

@@donniefisk2252 It's an Ungar 3700 and I believe it has a 4035 heating unit in it.

[@johnsimms3957]

Good job Terry. Nice playing Tony. And that's a nice sounding amp.

[@simonkormendy849]

I've got a big soldering-iron that's temperature controlled and switchable between 50 or 100 Watts, it has a big tip on it and is really good for soldering/de-soldering chassis solder-joints, I nicknamed it "Big Bertha".

[@izzyauna8814]

Love your knipex pliers. Best ever. I use them everyday at work.

[@ryanwestenbarger2121]

You make it look easy my friend... great work! I watch all your vids... Love it.

[@kylestrickland1112]

Why didn't you replace the carbon comp dropping resistors?

[@wadereynoldsgm]

Amazon has the Heyco pliers - Heyco 0029 R-29. They're around $40 which is expensive but if you install the strain reliefs often enough, it may be worth it

[@rodrigobortoloti2830]

Terry, congratulations from Brazil. Nice job.

[@electrolytics]

Rock and Roll as always D-Lab!

[@KC-vp7wn]

I have the tool to put those strain relief plugs in. It was a kit that had different size strain relief plugs too. I'll look for a part number and if I remember I purchased it from Grainger.

[@edwardhannigan6324]

Nice repair, and very informative Terry..Love it, such a sweet old beast..Top job as usual, and thanks for sharing..Ed..U.K..😀

[@thomasburnett4712]

I worked at McIntosh Laboratories Inc. in the early 70s and I believe they used something called “gas pliers” to install and remove strain reliefs. I looked on eBay and they have used ones for varying prices down to less than $10.

[@guitaradelic]

Yet another great repair. Excellent video, and excellent demo!!!

[@kylestrickland1112]

You are there to ensure a reliable, properly functioning amp. I know that's what you mean.

[@travishein]

I know what you mean about that tool I used to have one, But that was a long time ago. And yes, they are hard to find now. I sort of changed my preference. Lately I like to put IEC power connectors on my amps, so I can use the common interchangeable and detachable power cord. Some cords I have are a lot longer or shorter so I can adjust the cord for where I am using the amp at the time. I know it is different than the attached cord. But I also don't miss the attached cords either.

[@jeffreyhaynes5774]

Hey Tony blue jean blues sounds good on the Fender amp.

[@cloudconnect]

at 12:00 - its because old parts were conservatively rated, with a tolerance of up to 20%. That means a 400 volt cap probably was able to tolerate 480 volts easy. Direct evidence is right there. They lasted 53 years and may have still been okay. Good that you changed them, but just saying. With new parts, especially chinese electrolytic caps, you need to over-rate, and they still won't last as long. As to the "tool" Terry mentioned, its the chassis punch tool he's refering to, not the specialty pliers. He had to ream it because a two-wire chord is much more narrow than a heavy duty 3-wire, which is what he correctly installed.

[@sski]

Nice amp, nice work Terry, gotdamn play it Tony! That amp sounds awesome with the proper input.

[@billyrey9679]

Regarding Strain relief, spray with silicone.

I enjoyed this repair! Good post!

[@ewetoobie]

I assume you vacuumed out the metal filings after drilling out the hole for the new power cord, yes?

[@howardrose8481]

Heyco Manufacturing used to make the tool you are looking for. I found mine using an online search some years ago.

[@f.k.burnham8491]

Terry- Heyco makes the tool as well as the bushings. I got mine at the Puyallup Hamfair for $2.50 20 yrs ago. It has been a big time saver amd saved a lot of hassle. Heyco:

[@richardbrobeck2384]

that is the tool I use

[@fostexfan160]

Great video.....would the amp incur damage if the filter caps were not powered up with a variac?

[@hestheMaster]

Crimper for strain relief is made by Philmore tools part number 63-640. Less than $20 on Ebay. Will do the job and costs HALF of Heyco 's tool. Regards, Steve

[@rwhit79L]

Great sounding amp. Nice job!

[@jerrymcgeorge4117]

From the look of the two screen resistors that poor amp was infected with the dreaded early CBS era Jamaican resistors. Nice work!

[@seanhershey3390]

I'm having the same issues with my 72..(I'm also from Pa.)....:).. my guy put Reverb on both channels & utilized the Intensity knob for a slight boost

[@haroldsparkman6008]

Love your videos Terry. I have a Super Reverb that makes a horrible buzzing noise. Tried replacing all the tubes. One I replaced I thought was correct but evidently not. Made it worse. Do you ever spare time to look at it

[@richardbrobeck2384]

Nice Job Terry !

[@andydelle4509]

Actually using a screw for the AC cord ground lead that also mounts something else is not legal under UL. A submitted product will fail if that is done. Many people (including me for DIY) use one of the mounting screws on an IEC connector for AC ground. That's not legal. You have to have a dedicated ground screw for the ground. Of course soldering the ground to the chassis is also perfectly fine. The thinking is that the ground lead may be overlooked after what is holding it down is replaced - like the power transformer.

[@cloudconnect]

This makes no sense. I think you are talking about new products intended for market, not refurbishing old equipment. Are you suggesting that the power cord should have been left as two-prong if not done the way you are suggesting?

[@andydelle4509]

@@cloudconnect I'm not suggestion that all. In fact I did say what DLAB did was fully compliant to current UL standards. Yes, I am referring to the current market, that being since 1986 BTW, requiring the AC cord ground connection tied to chassis through a dedicated mechanical connection. You cannot attach the line cord ground sharing a screw that also serves as a mounting means for some other component. Of course repair of vintage equipment is not under UL or any authorized test lab's jurisdiction. But still the DLAB repair is fully compliant to current UL standards. He did mention that he did not want to use the power transformer screw to attach the ground lead. I am just pointing out that is also the official safety standard and why it is so.

[@teechui2401]

@@andydelle4509 I seem to remember reading a long time ago that it is not advised to solder a safety ground, because the solder can melt out under a high-current short situation, and then there goes your safety ground. Instead, a mechanical (I.E. crimp) connection is recommended from wire to terminal to (dedicated) ground screw in chassis. Although legally this might only apply to new manufacture, there's sound reasoning behind it, and it doesn't take much more work to accomplish, so I follow this approach even with retrofits to vintage equipment or DIY projects.

[@paulcargo4233]

That is a sweet sounding amp...

[@bryantcrawford5664]

Hey Dayton for some reason I haven't had any updates from your channel so I checked it and it said I wasn't a subscriber and I know for a fact I was. I don't understand what went on there.anyway I fixed it. Cheers from Tennessee

[@tsyde2008]

Hey Terry, who did you purchase your steel shop shelving from? Manufacturer? Thanks for the great videos too.

[@natureandphysics403]

Wish I could find why my 1969 Kustom combo has a 20% tone drop when the trem-vib circuit kicks in. Been to a vintage amp tech but he never fixed it.

[@dprice1077]

OK Terry new to this, so wondering why not use F&Ts for all the caps?

[@dwightbehm2886]

Hi terry I like you very much and love your work. You are very knowledgeable and thank you for sharing so much. Please try to quit doing that J hook up stuf. You are better than that. Clip the ground side 1/8" from the eyelet then bend it over toward the edge of the board then wick some of the old oxidized solder out then install the caps like they should be. They will look so much better like the professional that you are. Please and thank you terry. Dwight. ps. Sorry about it Terry I had to write.

[@stormriderkaos]

Hey D Lab: I often wince when people remove the 0.1uF blue turds feeding the power tube grids in vintage Fenders, and wonder if there's a way to put a couple 0.47 in series with them to "keep the mojo" while protecting the tubes / bias. Theoretically it wouldn't change the tone as the resulting capacitance of 0.0825 passes all guitar frequencies. Any thoughts on this?

[@JasonHobbsGuitarist]

Hi, can you explain why you changed those grid caps , aren’t they the “tone caps” that nobody wants to change unless they really have to? Just wondering, that’s all I’ve ever heard.

[@kengevers8738]

Terry, there is a tool for the Heyco clip for the A/C cord. I believe Heyco sells that tool, but hang onto your wallet when you purchase it. In Canada they go for about $120 bucks. Your local electronics supplier should be able to fix you up. Keystone mfg have those pliers. Good job on the video, and the Deluxe Reverb sounds great. Cheers😀

[@MrJukeman]

have you ever work on a gretch rouge amp or a gretch nashville why do they not show how the front end is made they show the output but not the preamp they just have a block

[@brucemillar3015]

What do you think about replacing the 3-prong AC socket with a 3-prong grounded socket?

[@michaelbennett1883]

I love this channel but if you get near my 1965 deluxe with that Christmas tree there would be problems.lol

[@jeremiahlyleseditor437]

Great Job Terry. You should think about sending the service overflow to the Uncle Doug KZbin channel. He does repairs. Look him up.

[@patlaw53]

Uncle Doug is just as backed up as Terry.

[@jeremiahlyleseditor437]

@@patlaw53 Then Doug might be able to recommend someone. Seems to be a shortage of facilities especially since Guitar Center is going under.

[@jesuscardben5140]

Mr ,how much Is the wattage of the phantom load connected? Thanks.

[@elwrongo]

wow that was great fun, thanks!

[@nigman2023]

Heyco tools i got mine off Ebay they are a life saver

[@entztrix]

I love watching your videos, I am looking for someone to work on my 66' bandmaster. It is operating fine, but I have a feeling it could be quieter. I don't have a local person willing to look at it in the way you youtube techs go over stuff. when i mention it has a little noise I hear "old tube amps do that" from my guy. Do you have a suggestion for someone relatively close to my area that could go over my amp and put it in top notch playing order? I have a deluxe reverb reissue that is blackfaced and quieter so I tend to use it, but I can't help but think I rather use the bandmaster. I live in Missoula, MT so I'm somewhat isolated..

[@d-labelectronics]

Hello, Sorry I do not know anyone in your area. Not many Tubesters around anymore

[@flintdavis2]

@@d-labelectronics What is a death cap?

[@mikemiller4838]

How many watt is the old ungar soldering iron. I need one

[@cclol8786]

Hi Mike. I think Terry uses a 100W tip (the tip sets the power on these, you can change 'em...).

[@willykanos1044]

I use a 350 watt Weller soldering gun for the same job. Works well. $10.00 at a yard sale.

[@georyans]

need a little help i've been building amps for years but this small single ended amp has me stumped I have this low level hum even when the volume is zero and i've tried all the known tricks to me this power trans has a filament center tap but i've tried two 100ohm resisters no effect i've tried elevating the 100 ohms off of ground no effect i've tried where all grounds are connected no effect i hope you may have a suggestion that works Thanks George

[@Tonetwisters]

IMHO, after 59 years of this, I have found that Fender blackface NORMAL channels always sound better than the Vibrayto channels!

[@jothanankrogh]

Agreed, they sound better with dirt pedals to me. I was trying to work out why I liked my Princeton reverb better than my deluxe reverb. It turns out the deluxe normal channel sounds like the Princeton reverb, gainwise, and the vibrato channel on the DR is hotter and makes dirt pedals too fizzy.

[@Tonetwisters]

@@jothanankrogh I am generally a clean player. But bought a ToneKIng Soloist several months ago, and found it exactly what I need for a bit more "character" and a smidgeon of dirt.

[@OakCliffs]

Output cap for that section is Twice the size in Normal vs. RReverb Channel. More Oomph ! (.047 normal vs. .022 Reverb )

[@jloewenheim]

Look up strain relief pliers on Amazon. Cost is under $15. Great video

[@d-labelectronics]

I have a set on the way, provided by a thoughtful person

[@buffalo7163]

Great sound!!!

[@dwightjt]

Sometimes I will J hook some connections For the same reasons That you do. Some people just love to criticise. I have watched others hear On U tubeless And have found that You and Uncle Doug Differ alittle how you do things with amps But Are the very best Out hear on U tubeless. Does UTube have any Proton or neutron tubes?

[@boco1951]

I have a couple amps I need to get singing again wish you were driving distance!

[@russellesimonetta3835]

50+ year old electrolytics,,, thankyou for your service,,, see ya!

[@jesseyasaitis9036]

how long does it take that Unger to heat up?

[@sabremh]

Terry what you want is a set of strain relief pliers sold by Tube Depot

[@kornami8678]

What about the toggle switch marked Ground? Shouldn't that be removed since the death cap has been removed and you now have a 3 prong power cord installed?

[@cloudconnect]

No! you leave the damn thing there because it can be used as a solder connection point or you can modify your amp to turn it into a feedback loop defeat switch. Remove it and you are left with a hole to fill. I HATE chassis holes!

[@jman1428]

Nice video.

[@Retro.Studio]

Nice repair again, does Tony has his own bed at your shop or does he sleep inbetween? 😂

[@jonathanbobohunt6507]

I'm probably late to the party on the tool but it wouldn't be the first time!

[@seanhoward5562]

Heyco Original Strain Relief Bushing Assembly Pliers Part No. 0022 (R 29).

[@georgejobin1744]

I got my strain relief tool on ebay I got a nice older one for 15 bucks

[@mcaloon66]

Heyco 0022 R-29 Standard Strain Relief Pliers

[@georyans]

p.s. this amp uses one 12ax7 and one 6l6gc and the power supply has a choke

[@roberthurless4615]

I got my strain relief install tool from McMaster-Carr. They cost $66.72, and the part number is: 7413K37.

[@mike60510]

Knipex pliers are the best!

[@ProphetNikoz]

that was Joe Bonamassa stuff in the end

[@kellykane312]

Oh no not j hooks! Those eyelets are made where you just unsolder and put the new lead in. Don't be lazy!

[@sting1111]

not a fan of j hooking but i guess every tech makes the best use of his time. same result it just cosmetics.

[@artisanmetalcraft]

OoooLaaLa!

[@boonedockjourneyman7979]

It’s too bad you’re not there to restore and preserve irreplaceable gear.

[@Robert-un3cf]

Well, if you leave junk old caps in the circuit, you really risk destroying other things. Like tubes and transformers.

[@saltyscorpion2151]

Terry, what the heck is wrong with you letting a day job get in the way of your hobby? :)

[@voxpathfinder15r]

I want to rewire that transformer!

[@idahovintageelectronics3589]

Strain relief pliers Just type in YTH-205 e-bay or amazon just under $11 I have had mine almost 2 years no problems!

[@VintageElectronicsGeek]

I can second that, had mine about the same time frame. ~Jack, VEG

[@danielsaturnino5715]

No one buys old crusty tires to have mojo on their car do they?

[@d-labelectronics]

Good point man

[@user-mv5bu2kk8b]

Pro'sKit 300-151 Strain Relief Crimper Amazon $13.99