How To Rough In a Switch Box Feeding Lights & Outlets

[@dhender85]

16 year sparky here 1) when pulling wire into the box, pull one tail extra long per gang. That gives you extra wire for pig tails at each box. 2) always lable your Romex. Not necessary if you're just going outlet to outlet, but if you have switches, it helps keep everything organized. It also gives you a ready made label after you strip. 3) linesman pliers make twisting easier. 4) an ECX bit makes driving the screws about easier. A Phillips bit is more likely to strip the head. 5) over all, great video. Pretty much every modern electrician agrees with not backstabbing, and I agree with the tape. We generally wrap kitchen outlets because the tile guys usually have to do backsplash, and I usually tape if it's in a metal box.

[@Velo1010]

I just purchased my first lineman pliers. Can’t believe I’ve been doing my own electrical home improvement without them. They are very useful. And at Harbor Freight they only set me back $20. Good quality and heavy.

[@seanstrickley3992]

​@@Velo1010try the Knipex linemans and strippers you will have your mind blown pricey but if your wiring alot well worth the money

[@itomba]

As a retired 40 some year tile guy I wish my electricians had followed your outlet taping method. Always needed a hot outlet for a radio or light so you could not shut off the breaker.

[@ricoludovici2825]

I always enjoy your vids. Real clear. Straightforward explanations. Real-world scenarios. I also like how neat your work is. But the best part is how you do all this super-neat and professional work in those old houses. I started out in the midwest before I moved to California, where most of the houses are post-WWII vintage. There is nothing I like more or would have enjoyed doing more than modernizing the wiring in a 1900s farmhouse. Like, making it bright enough to actually work sun the basement. And all the wires are run parallel and square along the structural members. Like you do there. Don't stop. Of course, there are a lot of paste-eaters in the trades too. The only thing they agree on is that you are doing it wrong. But you are doing it just right. You ought to do a 'This Old Wiring' with The Sparky Channel.

[@jonathanlamarche6349]

I’m currently doing the electrical rough in on a house I’m building by myself. Watching lots of videos (and reading a lot of NEC) and yours videos are extremely helpful. Thank you.

[@scottalexander8856]

I have watched a million videos on this same topic, and hands down, this has been the best one I have seen. Very informative, good camera work. Keep it up, and cant wait to watch future videos.

[@ralph5450]

Hey Scott, A million videos.... I've told you a billon times not to exaggerate.😊

[@robertlane6675]

You are the man, your wirenuts have wings, no back stabbing and proper wire direction on the screw terminals. I would have no problem working with you on an electrical project.

[@edmorrow7621]

This was by far the best wiring instructional video I've seen. I have been looking for this video all weekend

[@jaywood8296]

One of the better tutorials-thanks! I use a hook blade to slit the romex sheath, and diagonal cutters to cut off the pieces. I also use crimp connector on the grounds, leaving one (or more as needed) long to connect to the device(s), and leave that ground pigtail a bit longer as it has a loop in the end, but the other conductors sometimes do not. One other bit, when adding a pigtail, if you bend it instead of the rest of the wires, it helps to keep it even with the group, avoids bending the rest of the wires, which makes their ends uneven, and allows adding a bit of tension when twisting the wires, helping them lay together.

[@abulbrahman4325]

A very thorough description of how to wire electrical connections. Thanks a lot.

[@billhandymanbill2775]

Excellent step-by-step video! In all the years I have done electrical work, I have never used the back stab method. My 15 year old house was back stabbed on every outlet and switch when done by the original electrician. I have found two switch bodies cracked at the back stab hole and both switches eventually failed because of back stabbing since the wires fell out of the switches. Using tape over the screws is a “belt and suspenders” safety approach and a personal preference of the installer.

[@illestofdemall13]

Linesman pliers will do the twist or pre-twist easier than the needle nose.

[@aaron74]

Yep, I'm so anal I like to grasp a bundle of wires with Vise-Grips to hold them in place about 1.5 inches where I twist with lineman pliers. Nice tight twist without creating a braid.

[@cfgdr3]

Klein makes a wire stripper with a fatter head to serve the same purpose as the linesman pliers. They look weird, but you only need one tool to do the job.

[@illestofdemall13]

@@cfgdr3 I have their hybrid pliers with the grey handles that also have the stripping holes.

[@cfgdr3]

@@illestofdemall13 How do you like them? Are they worth the money? I'm on the fence still? But I really like the idea of having one tool to do the job.

[@illestofdemall13]

@@cfgdr3 They are pretty cool but I rarely use them. I like the idea of multi tools but sometimes I go back to doing things the way I have been doing them for years.

[@kanento]

Awesome explanation was trying to find one with using 1 home run most I found was doing 2 one for switch lights and one for receptacles. Thanks : )

[@YourAflacGal]

OMWord! I have watched COUNTLESS videos and this was the ONLY one that made complete sense AND was easy to follow! Thank you !

[@tallpaul8880]

Wago type plug in connectors really simplify the process and allow the switch or outlet to be pre wired on the bench in bulk and easily “plugged in “ when ready. And they also eliminate the need for pigtails. The cost is well worth the convenience. IMO. Excellent content. Thanks for the video. ✌🏻🇺🇸

[@dtm8073]

Wago type plugs is for lazy people!

[@tallpaul8880]

@@dtm8073 well like my dad always said “work smarter not harder”. I suppose by this way of thinking nail guns and power saws of all kinds are also for “lazy” people. Good luck with your build!

[@dtm8073]

@@tallpaul8880 You get a much more secure and reliable connection with wire nuts. I agree with your father about working smarter not harder. Nail guns and power saws are definitely ok, I never said they were for lazy people. Cheers!

[@tallpaul8880]

@@dtm8073 agree with your points. The new and improved wagos have a lock lever design that has improved the connection over the push in type. They are widely used in commercial and residential construction and proven. ✌🏻

[@mikekick2334]

Wago 221 are great and just as reliable as a wire nut. Anyone who does electrical and doesn’t know that is ignorant. People get so stuck on the old way of doing things they can’t fathom that a newer way could be just as good if not better.

[@luisserrano8898]

Thanks!

[@lamnag01]

Thanks Benjamin, always a pleasure to watch. You have helped me so much as a home owner.

[@NathanHarrison7]

This guy is amazing. The perfect how to video. I would subscribe twice if I could. And such clean wire management. Such clean work. You have to love mild OCD. My guess is he is a third generation electrician.

[@arthurvandelay7677]

I had to troubleshoot a GFI circuit that went through multiple bathrooms in a townhouse. Two outlets worked fine, but the last in the chain didn't. I initially thought that the hot wire was broken or a rat had gnawed through it (there had been a rat problem in this townhouse before). I noticed that the installer used the stab connections on the outlets, so I thought I'd correct that anyway. Putting the wires on the screw terminals solved the problem.

[@kirktrussell5502]

Great teaching video on how to do it right. Clear and concise. Thks! Non-electrician / self-Home builder!

[@bluestarorion]

Greetings! Thank you for all this amazing content! I am quite OCD, and seeing neat, tidy and labeled electrical work is a breath of fresh air. I almost was convinced to DIY a subpanel for my electric car (my main panel is FULL), but since I know it would have taken me days of work, I hired a professional that will do it in 4 hours. After that, I'll be installing all my new circuits into that box, and tidying up my old box as well.

[@tonytigro2687]

Great explanation. Also using electric tape is always a good practice! Keep up the good work! Thank you.

[@briansearles935]

A tip for making it easier and a cleaner install is to run all of your romex cables into one side of the box so they are easier to tuck into the box once the connections are made up.

[@hms1018]

Very understandable, love it! Next time use the holes in your wire strippers to make the loops, makes it soo much easier.

[@Reanimator7336]

This is exactly what I needed. Wiring for fan and receptacle was on same switch which is what I did not want. Excellent work and explanation. Thank you

[@shadypt100]

Thanks you for sure make the best videos on KZbin eazy to understand and just the facts not long winded. Thanks guy!! 😊

[@camerondavis4639]

Very helpful. Thank you fir the comments regarding the smart switches. I was wondering when it became standard for home wiring. Now knowing it is just a neutral wire I am not questioning my ability to install a smart switch.

[@johnsutcliffe5895]

i would never do it that way. yes it will work BUT think about this. it’s night, the lights are turned on you plug something into those outlets and it trips the breaker for some reason, then you are left in the dark because the circuit you tripped is also on the light circuit. you should always keep your lighting circuits and outlet circuits on separate circuits.

[@cfgdr3]

I agree with keeping lighting circuits separate from outlets when possible. I use a lable maker at my panels and like to label my lighting breakers in one color and outlets in another. In the case of my own home all labels are black ink, but outlets are white background and lighting circuits are yellow background.

[@surferdude642]

I'm not an electrician, but I get your point. If it's not done initially, I don't see how it can be changed without a complete rewiring. I don't think separating lighting circuits from receptacle circuits is commonly done even in modern homes. From what I've seen at electrical panels, if marked, it's always by room or location and not by separating switches and receptacles. As long as the expected load is less than the circuit breaker and wire gauge you should be good.

[@jimpintchuk8058]

All my rooms have a fan light on one circuit and led lights on a separate circuit. I drop my power feed for each rooms LED lights to a box in the basement labeled so I can isolate each room if I need to troubleshoot an arc fault. Since LEDs are 7 watts each I then run a single home run, 14/2 back to the panel. PS As Benjamin suggested on another video I also connect my Smoke Detectors to the LED light circuit. If I lose my Smoke Detector Power I will know because lights are off. I have separate circuits fir fan lights in every room so I’m not in the dark in case of problems.

[@icevariable9600]

​@@cfgdr3 I like this idea, of coloring labels based on type of load. Thanks.

[@brandynkoogler4500]

As a former electrician, no, you do NOT have to run 2 separate circuits for lights and receptacles, nor is it even recommended. As a former electrician, fix them plate screws it hurts to see that.

[@charlesbryant219]

I definitely recommend taping the switch if using metal boxes.

[@shadowopsairman1583]

That appears to be plastic...

[@charlesbryant219]

@@shadowopsairman1583 DUH! If you would listen to the video, he mentioned taping the switch if you are using metal boxes.

[@paulbogden7391]

Taping is for people who do t know what the hell they are doing

[@a-yates]

@@paulbogden7391 its code if using metal boxes where I'm at

[@vandoo66]

Only if you’re filling a box to capacity. Once the ground is correctly pushed to the back of the box there is little risk of anything shorting.

[@fsoileau]

Looks like a proper box make-up. Good job.

[@bigdaddy7670]

I have had to go back on several jobs and fix the "Back-Stab" switches & outlets installed. Always install on screw terminals.

[@stankahuna5271]

In new construction for example building a house, I would never mix lighting and receptacle circuits, its ok if your adding something in years later and would have to cut tons of drywall to get a feed back to the panel, but as a general rule don't mix lighting and receptacle circuits, and now with the arc fault breakers sometimes they don't like switches, things can get messy real quick after the dry wall goes up and now that light switch keeps tripping the arc fault breaker....

[@wilbready]

When I wire up the projects for my clients (sheds, garages, etc.) I always separate the lighting from the receptacles. Not a fan of daisy chained circuits.

[@KitchenerLeslie2]

That’s a waste. I wire to waste the least material and never overload a circuit. There are very few problems with arc breakers now. If you have problems with switches on arcs it’s because you screwed up your neutrals most likely. The only problems I see with arcs are plugged in devices having an issue. But, I know how to splice.

[@stankahuna5271]

@@KitchenerLeslie2 if your suggesting separating lighting and receptacles are a waste of material, fine so be it, better looking at it then looking for it, most of the stuff I build is Custom homes and mixing lighting circuits is not an option, as a lot of it is controlled by smart controllers not light switches, and the arcing at switches is not a neutral problem at all, its the switch itself, but whatever if your building a shed it dosn't really matter but when your building a home it makes all the difference in the world to lay out circuits separating lighting loads from general receptacles and its just a good wiring practice, I really don't understand your resistance to it other than the notion of saving material, and as I said earlier better be safe than sorry having to rip drywall to run a new wire, and that not fun, I hope we can agree at least on that, have a good day,

[@KitchenerLeslie2]

@@stankahuna5271 we do custom homes, but with regular switches, dimmers and controls that work with arc breakers. So I don’t see the point in wasting wire to keep outlets and lighting separate. If you don’t put your lighting on arcs because they trip, maybe you need to buy better devices or learn to rough and splice better.

[@stankahuna5271]

@@KitchenerLeslie2 thats twice now you have doubled down on a stupid ideal and twice now that you have questioned my workmanship, clearly your an idiot, you can take your ancient wiring methods and go build an outhouse

[@mikeyd717]

When I join wires together on my buildings I wrap electrical tape over the wire nuts in the same direction with the nuts. Just as added insurance that the nuts don't back off the wires. Or at least have to fight the tape to do so. Only because I've changed out outlets and switches in the past and have had old or existing ones fall off when I pulled the outlet or switch out of the box to change. I've had a couple of mine come off as well where it was a tight fit with the wires and I prob didn't get the nut as tight as I could have. Haven't had an issue when backed up with the tape as of yet though. I like the clamp style connections on the switch/outlet. The regular screw I've seen a few times someone has tightened it and the wire squeezed out enough where it eventually popped off the screw. I've also had to break the some old outlets trying to get the wire out of the backstabs. I don't understand what the danger of using them are since they are directly connected to the screw connector and are designed where you'd pull one out of the screw long before you'd pull it out of the backstabs. Maybe I'm missing something. I personally don't see how they pose a problem.

[@robertsteich7362]

I personally would make the home run wire longer than the other two when installing. The reason is so I can use the grounding wire from the extra length of it. Cut all conductors and the other two grounding wires to length, leaving the HR grounding wire long. Then use a “greenie” to twist the grounding wires with the HR one sticking out to terminate on the device (switch). And if necessary use the black and/or white for pig tails. With wire in my state doubling in prices in the last month. Tossing the scrap isn’t much of an option now.

[@shadowopsairman1583]

I would of made a drip loop

[@nicholassauer2612]

@My Name the pros too busy pulling wire and reading blueprints to make YT vids lol.

[@johncontos9577]

I'm not an electrician, but I play one as a handyman! very interesting work! I'm a carpenter by trade!

[@allenbuck5589]

Thanks for the video. Need to learn this From my hill top in. Sc.

[@michaelhinchey]

I always do the neutrals first. I put them in the very back and out of the way because they are usually unnecessary except in scenarios like you have mentioned. Then i do the grounds and so on..

[@gekorec]

The little holes on your wire strippers can be used to create the "hooks" to attached to the switch's screws.

[@jackriley5974]

There are screwdrivers made with handles that will twist most wire nuts??

[@seanstrickley3992]

Code is from the point u enter the box cable length is to be at least 8 inches out. Rule of thumb from the outside of box grab the wire with your fist and stick your thumb out. Where the cable hits your thumb cut the wire

[@jameskelly2777]

Very thorough Benjamin.

[@keyray7574]

Always, always, great information, presented so professionally! I learn so much from the tips you provide.

[@jeffkuipers1030]

perfect timing i want to do the same set up in my moms attic for a switch and outlet.

[@alvinstreicker4579]

Good video. Quick easy to follow. I like the labeling owires in and out, also the tape on outside of switches. Thankyou

[@donho1776]

A reason for taping over the connection screws even in a plastic box is to prevent contact with a bare grounding wire that may not be tucked well enough into the back of the box.

[@Slyder42]

There is a hole in the side of the wire strippers to insert your wires to make the J-hook easier. Just a thought. Insert and turn outward and you'll make an ideal J-hook that will fit easily around the screw terminal.

[@TheChaztor]

Good point but he may have found like me, that it makes the hook a touch too big.

[@Rawhide_Rumble]

I watched so many videos... And you actually explained it perfectly to a average person like me! For the life of me... I could not understand why there are 3 black wires coming out of my electric switch. At 10:19 mark, it totally made sense 👍👍 Awesome video!

[@bruceprosser8332]

Thanks! For a plastic single gang box there is no reason to wrap, but if it is metal yes. Double or more gang box I do even if it is plastic. That is what I do.

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

Seems logical.

[@jethronh]

love your videos, super clear and easy to follow. However, this is the first and only time i have ever seen someone put a switch on the ceiling. Is that even allowed by code?

[@TubedoDerek]

Thanks for this! You steered me right on a sleep deprived day after tripping my breaker and blowing up a switch.

[@carlcapello9956]

Like you said, if the box is metal then it's a good idea to wrap electricians tape around the terminals but, since you have a plastic box, it's not recommended.

[@malan828]

You should never use a blade that high on the wire incase you cut the wire usually u want to cut towards the end of the wire and pull the wire and insulation apart. But amazing work buddy keep it up!

[@aurvaroy6670]

For inexperienced people, you're right. But once someone knows how much pressure it takes to cut sheathing, they can go as deep as they want as long as they start with minimal pressure at the beginning of the cable, which is what Ben does

[@patrickarchuleta9594]

I've seen it all you can't judge if you want to teach then teach the correct way don't talk. Walk the walk. God bless you.👍🙏

[@juliosalgado9816]

@@aurvaroy6670 facts. I personally like to pinch the side whit pliers and pull off a pice and it works but some time I'm force to use the utility blade and is not like you going to put pressure on it as long as you make a line whit out pushing down you can strip it off

[@narlycharley]

The Southwire (Romex) stripper is SO nice for 12/2 and 14/2 wire. Highly recommend it.

[@gregiseneker-pk4lb]

I definitely like the way you make up the box in the order I do as well, get the grounds outta the way first and then pack them in back of box, then same with neutrals, last is hot wires then you only have the wires hanging out of the box you are going to need for the switch with the exception of the neutral tail for future use if you tailed one. My comment on the plug in back wire method is it may be fine for low current draw applications such as a few lights and you don’t add a bunch of lights at a later date. Some people use that method for duplex receptacles and I have found circuits that had eventually burned the inside of the switch wire contact points to the point the circuit became an open circuit burned and not allowing any current to pass through the receptacle and the insulation on the wires charred. Luckily a fire wasn’t started that burned the place up!

[@johndavies2949]

Same goes for GFI's that are wired to protect receptacles down stream. Line comes in cable next to stud. Load goes out other knock out. You can mark the load with a short striped off insulation on the black and white. The neutrals do not wire nut together. Completely independent on one another. Back of GFI receptacle is labeled to make it easy to figure out. Be sure not to get your neutrals interchanged with the black wires. They have to pair up with their corresponding black conductor coming out of the Romex sheath.

[@jtltet]

Very thorough explanation. Thanks for the video.

[@Ab2kgj]

I can't say that I always remember to tape the screws off but I try to do it if I think of it regardless of the style of the box. I had a USB receptacle that I hooked up in a relatively new house (2012). About 6 months later the circuit started tripping out of nowhere. Turns out that the ground wire was sitting out too close to the hot terminal and caused a trip to occur. Once I learned about taping the receptacle after that I tried to do it as often as I could remember to. Yeah putting the wires in a better location might have done the same thing, but you can never trust yourself to do everything perfectly. One more brick up on the wall helps the whole thing stay up better.

[@Dmitrytln]

Some electricians using cordless drill to twist nuts, which can damage insulation. In old houses with aluminium wiring electricians used soldering iron to cover twisted wires with stannum because wire nut could easily damage aluminium conductor. Some tip to future: always leave ground wire slightly longer than load ones - if somebody casually hook or pull the cable, ground wire still be connected as it is longer than hot and neutral.

[@stankahuna5271]

during the ruff in stage when you have two grounds in a box tie both onto crews don't cut until final installation of receptacle or switch, if you tuck the conductors deep in the box and then leave grounds at front creating a shield for the conductors in case the drywallers hit the box with cut out tool...

[@keithharrington6181]

Dmitry, it should be noted that "electrical equipment" (switches, receptacles, and yes wire nuts) must be rated and approved for use. If you have aluminium wire, ensure your parts are rated for aluminium or both copper and aluminium.

[@mariopendejo8294]

The rough in electrical does not include the termination of the wires to the switches or outlets. The title of the video is incorrect. But it is an excellent training video for a switch wiring. well done

[@bryanhernandez2986]

You can also use the hole on the stripper that’s normally used to cut 6-32/8-32 screws to help make the loop on the wire to attach to screw on device

[@KitchenerLeslie2]

Those strippers have a hole just for looping the hooks.

[@ronrowhani8428]

Back stab connection is done if you use 14 Awg wire and since it is spring loaded it will become loose in time, so making a hook and go around the screw clockwise is always a better installation.

[@buildsbymaz]

What if you need to add one more switch (i.e. for a fan) to this setup? Thanks for the help and great video.

[@MGPackers]

I wrap my outlets and switches to prevent someone from getting shocked if the device needs to be troubleshot while hot. It can also be a hassle to take the tape off of the device.

[@DanielinLaTuna]

You are a good teacher. Thanks for sharing

[@muniznick]

Used to go behind an OCD electrician who left his cvr screws in a vert position & move them slightly & drove him crazy

[@buc900b3]

i do all my cover screws that way

[@illestofdemall13]

@@buc900b3 Me, too.

[@monteglover4133]

So it’s you doing it to me :-)

[@johnstown2451]

North of the Mason Dixon line, it’s probably a law that they go horizontal.

[@billr.5808]

Too funny! 🤣

[@johndavies2949]

One of the methods we use is all your "hots" (power in and power out) are installed in the knock out closest to the framing stud. This allows for as many as 4 romexes. 2 in the knock out on top and 2 in the knock out on bottom. The rest of the openings will be used for the switch legs. Using this method you won't have to be identifying which wires are what. If you want to do that, we make it a rule to identify the switch leg. Some guys like to put little crimp marks on the switch leg. We strip back the black wire just a little. Crimp marks are hard to see.

[@sritchie58]

Always do a Courtesy wrap on all switches and receptacles.

[@jackriley5974]

BS!! That's not necessary. Do you wrap them while they're hot?? If so, do you unwrap them while they're hot??

[@tubeuser3655]

I put electrical tape on all my switches and receptacles, even on plastic boxes. Once I had a problem with a pull switch light that when it was push in place, one of the screw conductors was touching with the ground. My breaker would trip and it took me about 10 min to figure out what was happening. I know you can't put tape on a light sockets but the same issue is possible with a receptacle or light switch. So probably not necessary for a simple installation, but if doing a whole house, then I would recommend it. It would suck trying to backtrack trough a circuit not knowing that this could be the issue.

[@jefferyshall]

Damn, actually thinking about Smart Switch in future. I want this guy as my electrician!

[@monteglover4133]

I am an industrial electrician with 30 years experience 1) Never! Ever use the stab in the back connections.! Always a problems waiting to happen. 2) Always twist the wires before putting on the wire nut again problems waiting to happen especially on 20+ amp circuits 3) Standard practice is the hot connects to the top of the stitch 4) Tape on the device is generally not necessary and a nuisance and messy when servicing * Around here conduit is required even for single family homes (as it should be)

[@BenjaminSahlstrom]

Excellent! Thank you for sharing your experience!

[@aaron74]

You're in the Chicagoland area, I bet! I love that they use EMT and steel boxes. Very professional and extremely safe, not to mention highly configurable and expandable to fish new lines in the future.

[@monteglover4133]

@@aaron74 and keeps the number of hacks down

[@aaron74]

@@monteglover4133 Yes and it keeps electrician employment high, too. I wish it were the practice all around the country.

[@SIE44TAR]

I agree on the stab-in-the-back connections. I bought a new house and although it took 18 years, a circuit failed because of one of those. Obviously it was before AFCI's and the connection had been arcing, potential fire hazard.

[@alexgeorge6417]

Great job. Well done. I only tape with metal boxes

[@johnbrandon1416]

That was pretty good. First video ive seen that you took a sharpie and wrote on the wire, what it was.

[@robertfakler8564]

The only thing different I would do is use a metal cover plate, since it's located in a rough area and not on a finished wall. It was good to follow your procedure and compare with my own.

[@Bludcharg4214]

Obviously you dont know what you're talking about

[@rcrepps3949]

I know in Minnesota it's code to have a metal cover, well the code thing is what the state inspector said.....

[@johndavies2949]

Plates now are made of a pliable plastic that won't crack or break, especially if you tighten the little screw too much. It sucks to install a ,4 gang switch plate and then you overtightened the last screw and the plate breaks.

[@Aaron-ii5tx]

Strip from the end. You take a chance of nicking the wires. Then you can pull the sheathing back.

[@adirondacker007]

I have a pair of stripping pliers that also have sheathing cutters for 12 and 14 gauge romex. I usually cut the sheathing without removing it until it's in the box and I'm ready to make connections. It's fast, and makes a very clean install.

[@petem6291]

John this is a thorough well-made video one thing that I find helpful if wiring a house or shop I like to wrap One time around red tape on the incoming power wire to a box or use the LabelMaker it’s kind of future proofing but this way you always know which wires bring power to the box. I have found this little tip to pay me dividends after the job is done...

[@ronaldoleksy8264]

I.like to keep 1 of the grounds long an use a green wire nut...

[@circuitbreaker9001]

In my option the only ones that wrap tape around switch or connectors are not sure of their work. Also I see you in the US you like doing tails on all your wires even if the device can handle 2 wires at each terminal. In Ontario each wire connector counts as box fill. It also takes more time to do tails. On another note we can only staple 1 wire not 2 . Just showing my thoughts and that codes are different every where. You do nice work and you take pride in your work. I enjoy watching your videos.

[@stankahuna5271]

everything you wrote is spot on except the very first line, I'm also in Ontario, and had an inspector suggest to me I should be at least wrapping switches in a multiple gang box, fan switch and light switch in the bathroom, and said I should consider wrapping all of my devices that are attached by side screws, he said it wasn't absolutely necessary or any kind of deficiency but made it clear that he would like to see it at a minimum on the switches, and the tails thing is a commercial wiring thing, for example wiring floor receptacles with stranded t90, in pipe, they like terminals crimped on to the stranded or a solid wire tail, just saying....

[@circuitbreaker9001]

That is a inspector personal preference and not code. I hate when they do that. Our code also says 6 in. of wire total not beyond the box. Never done commercial wiring so can't comment on that. It is also recommended by the simplified code to strip the wire before putting in the box.. I know everyone has their own way of doing electrical. i am just saying how I do it. Not taking away from anyone. thanks for the feed back. I see the US code and workmanship is different from us. I do thank you for the feed back

[@stankahuna5271]

@@circuitbreaker9001 I hate when they do it too bro, but at the end of the day you don't want to be on the guys bad side, so I do it, on the other hand he knows my work so well, I often get drive by inspections, and he hands me a sticker to go put on the panel, so it works both ways, our code is much better than theirs, but it seems that our code is trying to become NEC, any thoughts?

[@circuitbreaker9001]

Now that we are on risk base things are really changing. Several years ago a inspector who is retired now told me That ESA was heading towards the same as TSSA. We was right. Funny I have been thinking we were heading towards NEC. I am closing up my company at the end of this year so will be done with residential. Most of my career has been in high voltage service testing and install. Companies like Westinghouse and Schneider Electric .

[@dakotbeastj]

@@circuitbreaker9001 y'all are both very knowledgeable. Thanks for all the information about how the do it in different places. I like learning stuff like that.

[@ToneCrushers]

Awesome video. Seems a little silly to add a nuetral pig tail "just in case", but you know more than me!

[@scorpio6587]

I'm surprised you didn't use the automatic stripper. Very helpful video.

[@miket5506]

I don’t use back-stab connections because they get loose over time and heat up. I had one melt at my grandma’s house behind her fridge and cause a small fire. I think back-stab connections ought to be outright banned in the NEC. This is part of the reason I don’t use residential grade receptacles/switches, only commercial/industrial grade. The higher grade receptacles/switches lack the back-stabs for a very good reason. Also, I always wrap my switches/receptacles with 33 tape from 3M.

[@jaybutera3353]

Thanks for this great demo and the clear explanations.

[@sancop]

Wow. How detailed and helpful!!!!

[@foughtyp1]

Nice job well explained. However, making a joint by twisting the wires with a pair of klines is the best method to insure a mechanically complete connection. Not necessary but in my opinion a good practice.

[@gnap-x]

I think wrapping the switch with tape in a plastic box is good if the box is stuffed just in case a ground wire or exposed wire doesn’t touch a screw and short it out

[@williamdawson6351]

The screw is the best choice a must better connection.

[@mattwalker534]

I think many people do not realize that the screw is still live even if they use the push-in connection

[@williamdawson6351]

I am sure of that some people have no idea of how a switch even works.

[@illestofdemall13]

I like the clamp connections the most. Otherwise I do a hook/loop. I never back stab.

[@jarrydee2799]

I agree...never never backstab!

[@lampoyo]

You're talking about the holes on the back of the receptacle/switch, correct?

[@illestofdemall13]

@@lampoyo Yes, the ones that just push in and are held by a spring. They have been known to fail.

[@mytubebobbie06h]

I would wrap it in electrical tape not only because the electrical box is metal but also if there’s more wires like in 3 gang box where you would have multiple switches. I’d like the ground to stay back as far as possible and for it not to accidentally touch anything else. The tape just gives me peace of mind.

[@jeremie2599]

Hey Benjame thank you for coming back

[@CrowCreekOutdoors]

I struggle with removing the main sheath when the wire is in the box. Always worried I’ll accidentally cut the sheath on the hot wire. I’ve found it’s easier to use a self adjusting wire stripper on the wire before it’s inserted into the box.

[@rolandos64]

I’d mark box with what breaker cavity this circuit correspond w panel including the back side of the switch cover

[@cfgdr3]

I write it with a black sharpie on all the covers I work on. It eliminates any question which breaker, and saves the time to figure it out.

[@charlesrandall6835]

I will jump separate lights in a bathroom. But those for me are always 15amp feed. All my outlets will on 20 amp feed. He must have deep pockets to 12/2 everything in his house. If he's going from a 15 amp switch to a 20amp outlet//outlets or visversa he'll be blowing breakers constantly.

[@mikejustice1196]

@3:08… guaranteed not to nick/cut insulation on wires by starting at the tail of the sheathing hanging out of the box?

[@ajyhimst2782]

Always connect your grounds first. It's just a good habit to commit to. Especially if you work on live circuits, as a lot of service electricians do.

[@shadowopsairman1583]

Grounds and neutrals

[@ajyhimst2782]

@@shadowopsairman1583 grounds then neutrals

[@KitchenerLeslie2]

Not on toggle switches or light fixtures you hold while wiring. You ground a toggle before the hot you have to play Operation with 1/16 of an inch clearance on the device yoke. If you ground a fixture you are holding and Soozy the Floozy homeowner turns on the light for you, you get blasted when touching the hot.

[@SoulsaverNlife]

I always wrap electrical tape around the receptacle screws so if I push it in or pull it out its safer as far as a circuit being on & it holds it all in place when you push it all in the box.

[@kealaniburgos9963]

This is such a helpful video!! So many useful tips. Thank you!!

[@mavicaerials8825]

Your left hand wire running from the box (home lead) was not stapled close enough to the box. It's supposed to be fastened within 6" of the box.

[@dakotbeastj]

I think it's 12 inches... at least in US. 334.30

[@claytonsprague7316]

12 in if it is in a box with a clamp connector, since this is a plastic box it needs to be stapled 8” from box

[@dakotbeastj]

@@claytonsprague7316 good catch!

[@mavicaerials8825]

@@claytonsprague7316 actually, section 334.30 states 12" is the requirement.

[@claytonsprague7316]

@@mavicaerials8825 yes it does, then there is another section check out 314.17(c) exception and see what you think on this specific installation

[@edward-x3s6f]

Great video Ben , can you do a video on a 5-2-1 hard start for an outdoor A/C Plz 🙏

[@harrygilbert4593]

Those a easy but why do you need one? I thought he’s an electrician not a HVAC Technician. Unless he wears many hats?

[@brianwest1501]

You don’t need a hot pigtail. Why not leave the hot longer then drag the hot wire in the middle. Put that middle part on the switch. Then wire nut the outlets hot out to the hot in. Get some Klein’s. So, do you now have four hits and four neutrals for box fill?

[@NadeemAhmed-nv2br]

Do you think using a crimp Style terminal connector and attaching those to outlets is fine?

[@hsbrooks]

I’ve never found a loose twisted wire connection in a wire nut. I have found loose wires in untwisted connections. I noticed the loose ground swinging around in the ground bundle.

[@homemechanics3349]

Really great video. Thanks for the easy and clear explanation.

[@harveywilterding3736]

Like how you read how pre twisting is not necessary but fail to notice that when putting on wire nut it says to keep twisting til wires twist together