How to ROUND OVER speaker cabinet edges

[@Sonmut]

Dang, this was super helpful. I was going to use a 6mm round over but the 12.5mm you use looks way better

[@nopochoclos]

Thanks for explaining in such detail, I have a machine like this and the manual is the worst thing I've ever seen, it doesn't indicate how to calculate depth, nothing, what you've said so far was the best I've seen.

[@thespeakerproject]

Good to hear that you found this useful. I agree, the manuals can be quite vague.

[@philipdonovan6510]

Thank you, very helpful and nice approach to sanding.

[@thespeakerproject]

Glad you found it helpful!

[@czh998]

great video. exactly what I needed. thanks mate ❤

[@thespeakerproject]

Cheers, glad you found it helpful!

[@digitalmonqui]

Couple follow-up question on the corners - I understand it’s good to round all your sides first to you have the round profile at the corners. I don’t understand why it’s okay to go all the way around on one corner but stop and go the other way on the other. Is this because of grain direction? Also if you go the opposite direction on the second corner, doesn’t that violate the counterclockwise rule for outer sides?

[@lsu1992]

I had to watch that twice myself 😆 I wish he would've explained this AS he was actually routing, would've made sense the first time. What I think he means is when you are making your first edge cuts (starting on the speaker SIDE panels) with NONE rounded over yet, stop a few mm from all 4 corners because the perpendicular (FRONT & BACK) edges beneath them are still sharp/ 90 degrees. Flip the cabinet/box to the other side panel, stopping at the corners as before. Now you can do the perpendicular edge, and since you are working toward an already rounded edge, you can follow all the way around without the chipping risk.

[@thespeakerproject]

Sorry, I could have explained this more clearly. The reason has to do with how the cutter interacts with the grain of the timber. You want the cutter to spin into the grain to avoid the risk of large chips. When you start from one long side, the cutter pushes into the timber grain, which minimizes chipping. However, as the cutter moves across the grain and approaches the edge, the unsupported timber is prone to chipping. By starting from the other side for that edge, you can reverse the direction to ensure the cutter always spins into the grain, mitigating the risk of chipping.

[@hellhound59]

Nice video. Is that solid wood? Or plywood? Looks like real nice work there. Thanks from up in Alaska.

[@atlasgouverneur2737]

Hey Rick, it's 8mm solid Alder glued onto 10mm marine plywood. The same stuff that we use for our speaker kits.

[@VAPSPRESENTS]

What is the name of that rounding bit you were using at the beginning?

[@thespeakerproject]

It's called a round over bit, or sometimes called a bullnose router cutter.

[@nicolasnicolas3889]

Nice video Bro! I can see by your subs you have a new channel, I'm sure with a bit of application your channel could do really well, so eh! Also thanks for mentioning the safety thing, I had a fiddle with my router on and my finger nail bounced fortunately off the router bit.....a close shave dude, Mama Mia! Have a great day! :D

[@thespeakerproject]

Thanks, Nicolas. Over time I'll be adding more content, and I hope everyone enjoys it!.

[@dozyproductionss]

I know for cars you want to sand in a crisscross pattern. Wouldn't that be that the same for wood?

[@thespeakerproject]

When painting an automobile, sanding in a crisscross pattern is often recommended to create a uniform and smooth surface for the paint to adhere to. The crisscross pattern creates tiny scratches in the surface of the car that help the paint to stick better. However, sanding wood is a different process altogether. When sanding wood, the goal is typically to remove imperfections, such as scratches or gouges, and to smooth out the surface. Sanding in a crisscross pattern could potentially create more scratches and imperfections, rather than removing them. Instead, when sanding wood, it is generally recommended to sand in the direction of the grain. Sanding with the grain helps to avoid creating scratches and imperfections and results in a smoother finish. It is also important to use progressively finer grits of sandpaper when sanding wood to achieve a polished and smooth surface.

[@dozyproductionss]

@@thespeakerproject good to know. thank you!

[@MelvinDlaCruz]

which one will be more heavy, mdf or wood?

[@thespeakerproject]

Some woods are very light while some are heavy. But typically hardwoods will be denser than MDF. The stiffness of the material plays a big part in the sound of the speaker cabinet too. So that should be considered along with mass.

[@MegaDalveer]

bit no please for round the edge and the bit you use for make the speaker hole half deep for ring side of speaker

[@thespeakerproject]

Hi Dilpreet, I use a 9mm straight flute cutter for the speaker driver cut outs and rebates.