How to Safely Plug a Hole Below the Waterline | Boat Repair with Andy Miller of Boatworks Today

[@restrothunderroad]

Really informative video. Andy is the man, love his work!

[@trailsandsails2722]

This was a really helpful video both in regards to the repair AND use of products. Thank you!

[@tomcory-7187]

Great as always Andy

[@christophermccann6529]

Pleeeeeeease pleeeeeease no music in the background.

[@TotalBoat]

Thank you for the feedback. We have passed it along to our team. If you are having trouble hearing the video, we recommend turning the caption on to help!

[@christophermccann6529]

@@TotalBoatit's just annoying and distracting, IMO.

[@oo7ducky]

I don’t find it annoying or distracting in this particular case I think it was very well done.

[@mvlaubach]

I have to ask about the order of patch pieces, as I've seen it done both ways. In the way that you show, the largest was at the top, so the largest touches the boat and the smaller parts just fill in the concave area. The other way that I've seen it is to put the smallest in first, then work to the larger. This second way has every piece making contact to the original fiberglass. My understanding is that if the inner most piece comes loose, the rest are still adhered. In the "largest on first" method, if the inner piece comes loose, they all are loose. Am I overthinking it (not unusual!) or is the smallest first version more for structural repairs? Love the videos!

[@RA-gk5zg]

I'm a retired aerospace engineer and companies do it both ways. I've read reports supporting each method. Due to the greater area the large first ply has lower inter laminar shear. The second method has a nice progressive failure. They both work if done properly.

[@scottcates]

Armchair Engineer and Handyman here: My usual patching method is to place the smallest fill pieces first, with larger ones progressively over those. This stabilizes the smaller patch edges with ever-larger patches. This also leaves me with just one edge to flatten/sand/fill/fair. The Peel Ply seems to be a bit of a game changer in the opposite layering technique though as it flattens and fairs the topmost surface automatically.

[@nacdaddy5591]

I have always used large first which I learned from this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bH-aioCoa6pobJYfeature=shared

[@jack_d5aa96]

Why is he adding both microballoons and silica to the epoxy, at 6:55 in the video? What are the ratios?

[@TotalBoat]

Microballoons help to create a lightweight fairing compound that is easy to sand and shape. The silica adds strength and bonding to the mixture. When combined, it creates a great fairing compound! It's hard to provide exact measurements for each product as it depends on your project. Adding fillers to the epoxy will decrease your work time. Typically, we recommend aiming for a peanut butter consistency for this mixture.

[@christophermccann6529]

I have the 2:1 high performance resin (and several old thru-hulls to fill). Can the 2:1 system be used for this project?

[@TotalBoat]

It can be!

[@philippeladouceur3846]

Why epoxy it’s not compatible whit gelcoat ? Why not use product that the boat was build whit !!!! Like fibreglass whit a polymer resin and then finish whit gelcoat specifically under water line …. !

[@TotalBoat]

To apply gelcoat over epoxy, we recommend using our 2 part primer, TotalProtect, first over the epoxy before applying gelcoat.

[@philippeladouceur3846]

@@TotalBoat it make the repaire more expensive for that kind of work ! I my self do repair boat for a living and cost effective is big in my line of work specially wen everything is more expensive! I will used epoxy for other projects but never on the outside of boat or under water line ! Tip from a professional 😉