How to Salvage / Hack a BionX Hub Motor for External Controller and 3rd Party Batteries

[@Doctorbasss]

AWSOME idea!!!!!! Thanks Grin team for helping these BionX customers!! i had so many request for BionX battery repair.. This will certainly help solving the problem now!!! You guys are awsome !!

[@amandac6354]

I started this project with a gifted full bionx system and upgraded the battery already. Thanks for all the info!! It bas been a fun project indeed

[@happymanasfksubaru2846]

Hello how did you done the battery upgrade?

[@zeroandplanb4life]

The low drag is not an understatement the wheel spins 3 spins less than a normal rear wheel when testing the free spin and mine is 8 years old amazing motor actually and with some extra sealing like some flex seal on controllers etc it’s even ready for winter riding

[@izzzzzz6]

ANother top tip for people struggling to remove the slotted washer on the side with the cables. I don't have the best puller set so they kept slipping off. I ended up using 100mm pullers (medium size in the cheap sets you can buy). Then i tied some good string around the lower part of the jaws (one complete turn around each one and then spiral and then thread to opposite sides of the opposing string path to pull them all together tight towards the main puller bolt. Basically hold the jaws on tight to the nut by wrapping a good string securely around the gripping part of the jaws to hold them against the washer. Then once pretty tight give the end of the nut a few good cracks with a hammer and then tighten again. Repeat this a few times and you will get results, try to oil the part the day before, it may help. When using pullers against a threaded axle it is best to try to tighten against a nut on that threaded axle, at least keep a nut on there so you can try to clean any minor damage to the thread as you unwind the nut after the job with the puller when that part of the job is done. The best is to put 2x nuts on the axle and then tighten themselves against each other in the exact correct position to best protect the thread of the axle. Otherwise, when using only one nut spun onto the end of the axle it will spin with the main puller bolt and travel down the shaft away from the top of the axle which now transfers all of the pushing force right to the end of that threaded axle creating a situation where you may once again damage the end of the thread. One last tip i forgot to include. This might help someone. The main botl on my pullers is not threaded all the way up to the tip. This meant it would not fit in the small amount of space i had left between the puller nut and the threaded motor axle. So i did not use the long puller bolt till i removed the very last part of the casing later (when it comes away over the cables, on that side). What i did was i took a 50mm long 10mm bolt and nut and i used this nut and bolt combo (smaller diameter then the puller bolt so it just goes through the center hole and the nut goes on the underside inside the puller once it is in place. The smaller nut and bolt was the way i found when the puller bolt did not fit.

[@qrsimon]

I put a small screw in site the axle hole.

[@wolffgramm]

Just purchased a Smart Ebike and its barely used with 58 km"s ! But it is also build in 2012. Hope it stays healthy for a while.

[@oldpoulan]

Dude you are an electronics wizard and guru!

[@gordsnatcher6074]

Excellent video! Highly informative! It is refreshing to see some in-depth technical information on hub motors, their anatomy and their function. Most sources I have found just give a bit of vague hand-waving to the tech while trying to sell you their proprietary, definite purpose hardware, just like BionX must have done in their day. With what I have seen here, I believe that I can effectively re-build and re-purpose the hub-motors I have and, more importantly, make use of the countless 3 phase brush less motors that I pull out of washing machines! (Turns out many of the newer ones are nearly identical to e-bike motors, only bigger!) Thank you very much!

[@GrinTechnologies]

Hey Gord, you are 100% correct in your assessment and we totally shared that same frustration with how this industry operates. The only factory ebike motors you can't adapt to run with an appropriate 3rd party controller if you're willing to dig deep are the rare higher order multiphase hubs, like the Falco that uses a 5 phase topology or the wavecrest tidalforce that was 7 phase. Virtually all others are a 3 phase BLDC, and you are quite free in how you run them once you remove the stock electronics and access those 3 phase wires.

[@jviews1]

Excellent - now I can use my bionix wheel for something other than garage corner filler. - I see a project in the works. Tx

[@GrinTechnologies]

Cool to hear, it's not a particularly easy project to take on but there is something rewarding in taking something that's locked in proprietary obsolescence and making it function again ( with open standards). Good luck if you take it on.

[@hoverbotfpv1425]

Spanner adjustment with a mallet, love it! After watching this I would be like.... just send me a 5T Grin hub.

[@richardlindgren]

This is a good idea for the older iZip/Curries as well.

[@NorkaKnight]

Since BionX system runs off Canbus, I wonder if you can snoop the Canbus signals and try to spoof them without tearing down the motor.

[@simphiwemphiwe8600]

This Guy knows his stuff, thumbs up mate

[@groovygrannysbicycle]

No he doesn't. That mistake (forgetting to thread the cable through the lid first) should not have happened - not to a professional. A professional can make mistakes, but then would have started afresh and do the job properly. Let's hope Grin staff doesn't always work like this.

[@mscir]

My iZip motor stopped working and I'd like to do this to my motor. - if the motor is 3 yrs old is it still worth doing, assuming the magnets and coils and Hall sensors still have a lot of life left in them? - How can I diagnose the copper windings at the 3 power connectors to verify there are no opens or shorts? - How can I diagnose the Hall sensors to make sure they're working well? - Do you like the KT controllers for 48V systems? - My 3 Hall sensors are less than an inch from one another, not 120" apart like yours - is that an issue for controllers? - What cable did you wire in, where can I buy one? Thanks, Mike

[@Marcello1b]

This is a great find! I wish I could do electronic or to bring it in the nearest repair technician near me. Thanks for the tips. I'll keep up my research.

[@BootJamesOut]

I have to give you a thumbs up because you shown that your real. Same here I would of keep the work flowing also then going back a few steps too. Why because I known what I did in doing this mod. Now I know why I Don't see any Bionx dealers. I was going to get one 5-7 years ago, at $15-1800. Very good for not wasting anything great recovery work using what around you. I live in a big city I have no need to own a car or take a bus. I'm the oldman riding my bicycle on snow days in city core not day after. I am that rusty winter chain, that's cranky, and blows bad rear tire air, for you safety suck in the bus flumes. Ride Easy

[@MrSkipturner]

Can I send my motor to have this done?

[@johnfurr8779]

Thanks Justin... or not. I haven't found any bionx systems available locally for less than cost of new golden motor kits.... maybe your video is the reason for that ;)

[@GrinTechnologies]

Ha ha, it's either that or the people who offer battery rebuild services, together we're keeping even these old BionX systems alive and kicking year after year.

[@glenaucoin9842]

thanks for this video i wondered what to do with my ol bionx kit

[@izzzzzz6]

I've opened a bionix motor before that comes from a "Smart" bike, i did this to repair the 3 speed internal sram hub. This one i need to keep original to hold balue of the bike but i have 2 other bionx motors i bought which i have been planning to do this with for years. i have 2x 1500W controllers. One problem i have now on my "Smart" is i tried to charge at 25V to see if it would work (normally 26V) it blew the charge controller transistors which are a very special surface mount transistor, very flat in a metal can casing. I now have the new transistors but it looks very difficult to solder. It was done in an oven at factory. I was considering solder paste but these are 55A each and tiny so thinking solder paste might melt under high demand usage conditions. Will probably pre heat the board and solder from above, either with the iron direct on the casing or perhaps with hot air to see them float into position. I have the parts now, just waiting to build confidence. I plan to use heat proof AC cable found in ovens etc. for the phase wires, just long enough to exit the hub, then go chunkier to the controller. (it has a very rubbery silicone type insulation). Classic mistake. Forgetting to thread the cable through all the holes! i would have started again, personally. I'm used to this type of mistake. do it all the time. Even today, my friend came over for help fitting tow bar electrics and he got carried away wiring the plug before threading all the cables.

[@GrinTechnologies]

Good luck with it and nice to see so many people successful salvaging the motors from proprietary systems

[@izzzzzz6]

@@GrinTechnologies Did you ever do a video on strain gauge amplifiers? It's almost a shame not to use it. There probably exists some Asian controller with a strain gauge port. Personally i would like to see the strain gauge amplifier and find or build a kit people can use to follow along.

[@МішаРоспопчик]

Hallo. Good video and explenation of what you need to do with your Bionix motor...question is, how to make speed sensor inside of motor?

[@GrinTechnologies]

No need since it has the 3 hall signals. For the L10 connector, we just solder the speed signal to any one of the existing halls.

[@huwjones2056]

Thank you Justin. I have just re-celled my 22v bionx and it was doing fine until the controller blew this morning, (the main plug disconnected while going over a bump at high speed on full regen) Now I will be able to get it going again, very pleased indeed!

[@GrinTechnologies]

Hey Huw, well it's not a small undertaking but we've now had a handful of people email us pictures of their resurected BionX hubs with external motor controllers, and once you do that you can easily run at much more than 22V as well to get more speed and power from the hub.

[@huwjones2056]

When using the base runner l10, does the white speed sensor wire need to be connected to one of the motor hall outputs in order to get a speed reading on the cycle analyst?

[@huwjones2056]

Answered my own question, yes the white wire goes to a motor hall output, and the speedo now works!

[@wornoutwrench8128]

I still have my complete bionX setup sitting in a box in my garage from when I did my conversion. I have been trying to figure out what to do with it, not worth anything, can't sell it. But now...

[@GrinTechnologies]

Well, something to consider next time you find yourself with a free day and nothing better to do! ;-) That said, there are also people that will do the BionX battery cell replacements or sell complete refurbished BionX packs, which is probably the easier route to making it useful to someone.

[@SheriffofYouTube]

man this video is really well done

[@qrsimon]

Thermal sensor, some more info on how to wire it?

[@alilacilashamlaoui6864]

How are you, my friend? I have a similar engine. I opened it, removed that part, and installed 3 Black wires

[@GrinTechnologies]

Good, that is step one! Next you have to source and hook up a motor controller.

[@mobilidadelectricarorotec]

Hello! Can you please to tell me wich is the program or app that you use at the end in your vudeo? I mean... When we can see the motor configuration... Thancks a lot!

[@GrinTechnologies]

On this case is a phaserunner motor controller, so we are using our phaserunner software suite. Other controllers may have other software or none at all

[@merkr212]

Hi! I'm currently using this video as inspiration to build a DD hub motor setup for a 10" knobby tired scooter. I managed to break both of the cast "hub" that attaches the teeth portion of the stator to the axle. Very upsetting bc it looks like a promising motor to hotrod and that's not common amongst scooter motors. Any idea where I can find diy parts or any ideas on replacing these? Thanks for always presenting informative fact based tests and reports. As mentioned, you're definitely a major source of inspiration as I walk a similar path as you currently, only in the world of scooter hacking.

[@wheeler2581]

thanks for saving the Earth.

[@Dreadlockyx]

Hey, thank you very much for this detailed dive into the Bionx hub motor. Is it possible to keep the original battery pack, perhaps with some modifications, so that it works with a custom controller (ex. Baserunner) and the motor as modified in this video ? Cheers

[@GrinTechnologies]

Yes, it involves removing (or perhaps just ignoring) the stock BionX BMS circuit on the battery and soldering in a 3rd party BMS, and hooking up the motor controller discharge leads to this 3rd party BMS board.

[@stevensmith5070]

Could you perhaps show us this hack? Please. I have two batteries that I would like to do this with.

[@johnplauche8139]

same thing happened to the GenZe ebikes. be great to see a video on that

[@GrinTechnologies]

Sadly this is a very common occurrence in this space. Fortunately most ebikes don't have the controller intergrated inside the hub motor itself which makes it easier to hack with 3rd party controllers. See kzbin.info/www/bejne/qX2Wk52Hj6ydpbM for a more generalized video on that.

[@jonk8337]

Instead of modifying the motor, can a 2nd aftermarket battery be tethered/parallel connect to the existing original battery to extend it’s life? Or when replacing the existing cells, just simply use a larger housing and install a larger battery while using/incorporating the same electronics of the Bionx system.

[@GrinTechnologies]

If your can do battery surgery and replace all the cells or run another set in parallel then there is no reason to do this. Luckily bionx didn't pull a Bosch and design a bms that permanently bricks itself once disconnected from the cells.

[@MrBastian1993]

great tutorial. attempting exactly the same project. I want to ask what you do with the extra hole you drill? I understand that it is a "stator aid injection hole". Googled that term, didn't find anything.. apreciate any hint :)

[@GrinTechnologies]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIu4XqCeobOWp6c Google is smart, but not smart enough to know that stator aid = statorade!

[@FrodeLøtvedt]

If I wanted to upgrade a sensor-less motor with hall sensors and Temperature Sensor Bead, do I need a phaserunner controller, or could I do autotuning and automatic mapping with the Baserunner Z9?

[@GrinTechnologies]

The Baserunner_Z9 will work great for this too, just with a lower max torque level than the Phaseurnner (55A vs 96A) but still probably a large improvement over the stock controller it is replacing.

[@CKexploresNYC]

My friend gave me his Bionx bike because he lost the charger. The battery and motor works fine.. I took apart the Bionx battery and use my own BMS for my other ebike. For the motor, I guess I'll have to learn how to re-lace the wheel and rewire the motor. All I need to buy is a gear puller.

[@William51115]

Why did you unsolder all the wires instead of just snipping them?

[@julikb]

we all have done it some times....

[@HaggisPower]

Superb demo, thanks

[@izzzzzz6]

My hall sensors were HAL 502A Same pin out.

[@qrsimon]

Hi Justin, thanks for the vid. Served as inspiration to ressurect a 250 bionx motor. But trying to get it working, error 07, for my cheap china display its the hall sensors. Help. They all give (quick) 4.somehthing volts. Any pointers on to appproach this? Further more: motor isnt doing anything an throttle gives small sound. Tried all the six phase wire combo's, hall sensor as well. I found the reverse, more drag. Read all there is, let it rest but to no avail. Thanks

[@GrinTechnologies]

error 07 on a random display doesn't mean anything to us. I'd say make your life easy and get a controller that is both well documented and also which works sensorless if you can't figure out the halls and hall pinout.

[@robertcote2406]

What tool do you need for the freewheel? I understand there's a lot of different ones.

[@GrinTechnologies]

It's called a freewheel tool, there's only one common spline pattern that is used for freewheels these days.

[@escalonatv3218]

Any path to take so that the sensation of torque is similar to that of bionx?

[@GrinTechnologies]

Yes, simply add a bottom bracket torque sensor to your system!

[@jgc5782]

Thanx for the videos I will tackle that on my next project.....I have a problem I disconected the harness that comes from the lcd and throttle..to controller but I have noticed that some wires are switched around and its connected to another connector that jumps to the Hub for example the red to brown and the brown to black...there is 2 reds....can you help me please.

[@GrinTechnologies]

You'll need someone who is familiar with the entire BionX wiring harness and connector specification, and that is unfortunately not us as we never dealt with BionX systems. We just made this video to show how you could liberate the motor from the BionX's proprietary electronics to run it with a 3rd party motor controller.

[@dw8262]

what is the name of that round thing that goes on the axle of a bionx motor. I lost mine and cant usethe wheel unless i have on?? ok i got it a rotation nut..

[@qrsimon]

Just opened the motor, I'm in the middle of it. woehoe:)

[@Rey-Nolds]

Where is your shop located, can I ship a hub motor to you for repair?

[@MistahMatzah]

I have an old Yuba bike with the BionX system, which is of course completely dead. Would any of your controllers be better suited to this kind of conversion?

[@GrinTechnologies]

The phaserunner and baserunner are both great options

[@MistahMatzah]

Thanks! Is there a standard spec thermistor I should be using with your Baserunner controller? Looks like I'll be able to reuse almost all of the controls except for the screen. That amplifier circuit for the strain gauge looks pretty simple, can that signal be used for torque sensing for the PAS function?

[@tudor888]

In theory, if I only needed to fix a defective controller board, I could start my disassembly at 5:41 in order to expose only the board. Does that make sense?

[@GrinTechnologies]

In principle yes but but will likely still need to tap the side plate off or the rotor ring with a dead blow around the flange, in addition to using the gear puller.

[@SwissMadeMax]

Can you suggest a motor controller model well balanced to use with this motor ?

[@GrinTechnologies]

Just about any 6 or 12 mosfet BLDC 3 phase ebike motor controller will work. It's always good to have one that can run sensorless so you aren't dependent on the halls and sorting out the hall mapping. They run just great with our Baserunner, Phaserunner, and Frankenrunner controller series, and we also ran one early with our 25A grinfineon controller.

[@avilaluis8760]

Damn looks way above my skills I'm more of a plug and play lol You are awesome

[@FolinP]

Hi this work for e-bike Ariv Meld by General Motors me problem with battery is BMS optimus bms 12s bionx and the battery no longer makes what can I do ?

[@GrinTechnologies]

Well you can start by replacing the controller and the battery

[@andrewstanley176]

I watched your video on bionx hub motor repair could you please tell me what they call the sensor thing for sensor wires it's 5 volts ground sensor I need to order 3 of those the wires broke please help

[@GrinTechnologies]

They are called hall sensors, but you can make your life easier by ignoring them and just running with a good sensorless motor controller.

[@tirica]

I have a question about the thermistor, I saw the Video several times, it looks like you connected the second wire of the thermistor to ground, is that right? I thought it must to be connected to the +5v cable of the hall sensors.

[@GrinTechnologies]

Most thermistors are ground referenced, not 5V referenced. It's silicon based temperature sensor IC's that would need a connection to the 5V power.

[@ludiagsm]

Thank you I just hacked one .I was confused how to open it thank you verry much 🥳

[@andrewstanley176]

Thank you for your advise and yes your video was easy to understand and it worked other people's videos don't explain the work like your video was the best of all thanks my motor works great bike is a whole lot faster only run it on three five is crazy fast for me anyway

[@watchthisonesoon]

Can the BionX motor assembly be converted to a motor for wind of power generation?

[@watchthisonesoon]

Well that didn't work.... the question ought to be: Can a Bionx motor be converted so that it can be used as a wind generator or micro hydro generator?

[@GrinTechnologies]

Yes, this goes for every single electric motor in the universe more or less. But it's especially easy with permanent magnet machines like you have with ebike hub motor.

[@t77777770]

I have one of the original Bionix Hub Motor. The battery was 22 volts had 10 nickel cadmium batteries in it. I was wondering if you had any idea how many amps that might have been. If you hooked up a 24 volt external supply through it would that fry it or would it have to be 22 volts. I know the nicads really were low output compared to todays stuff but I really like the ride on the bike is on and just looking for a boost on some hills. Anyway just taking a chance you might know. The video was awesome btw.

[@GrinTechnologies]

THey were probably NiMH rather than NiCad. 'D' cell NiMH were 8-9 Ah. 'D' cell NiCads were more like 5Ah.

[@t77777770]

@@GrinTechnologies Thanks very much for the info. Just have hacked an external power supply onto it and have to put the wheel on to see if it is going to work . Everything seems to power up but I think there is a 3 km per hour lock out on the rear wheel so I have to put it on the bike to actually test it. Hopefully it will work as this was one of the earlier units. Battery was Serial Number of battery 1060 9402 4F. Anyway thanks for your info I just would like enough power for the two hills on my route. :)

[@witoldskrodzki5093]

the end was the best!! :) :)

[@jorgedumet8969]

Thank you so much for this !

[@nunzio2011]

Got one for free and will be remove the components...thanks. Do i have plug it in a computer to set it up

[@waderustin9325]

I got lost. Is there a wiring diagram somewhere? Where do I run a ground wire?

[@GrinTechnologies]

BLDC motors are 3 phase AC, there is no ground. If you choose to run it sensored rather than sensorless, then you will have 5V and Gnd for your hall sensor hookup but that's it. In general I'd recommend just going sensorless for a rebuild like this.

[@julikb]

@@GrinTechnologies in my case i have sensored controller and do i need to add additional components between the hall censores and the controller ? Or just hook the wires to the controller.Mine controller is Focan 350w max amp 15A?

[@vornamenachname5237]

Hi Justin! Thanks for all the great videos, you produce!!! - they're really fantastic and i appreciate your work!!! How about the kv and the voltage range you can use the bionix motor? Could i run it at 24v, too? Sincerely karl

[@yogiber21]

Where do I get your controller ?

[@stevebrown5603]

So would it be possible to only bring out the positive and negative and run them through a switch instead of a controller for a steady run speed?

[@zeroandplanb4life]

you cant run a three phase motor with two wires there is no negative positive wires there is three phases which must be converted to accept dc current with speed controller even if you just wired the three phase motor wires to the controller that may not be enough as the hall sensors are there to sense magnets position as it passes through each phase just to answer i asked a while ago why i couldnt leave out hall sensors quick google search can help

[@zeroandplanb4life]

also helps get wire with pvc coating if possible as it as high heat resistance and is easily squished i just completed the rebuild of this motor and am waiting for controller to test

[@fun_ghoul]

You can use a sensorless controller, which will let you use the fattest possible wires for your 3 phases. Still, don't expect miracles with this thing.

[@almondboy111]

my bionx is locked because i just hit 50km so the system needs to be registered by bionx.. but they don’t exist and i don’t want to code with BIB, can i do this to bypass locked assistance and still use factory controler and battery? just add a pedal sensor. thanks

[@GrinTechnologies]

Nope, this modification makes it impossible to use the original controller since the entire point of the modification is to bypass the original internal controller. You will need to then get a 3rd party controller, and to use the original bionx battery you would have to open it up and add a 3rd party bms circuit as well, removing whatever internal bionx electronics are in the pack.

[@almondboy111]

@@GrinTechnologies i do not want to go through that.. any interest in buying my whole kit less than 60k miles p350 kit 48v 8.8ah battery + all components 400 + shipping?

[@stevensmith5070]

Thank you for your videos!

[@Full_Throttle_no_Brakes]

Hi Justin, I currently have this Setup on my bike with 72v battery. Do you have any idea how many amps can I push to this motor before it fries? I am not concerned at all if It does fry because I got this very cheap already converted even with temp sensor. I just want to test the limit but I don't want damage other parts as well. Thanks!

[@GrinTechnologies]

It's time and amps, not just amps.

[@mauricemeza7391]

Hi , Are the p250 and 350 motors the same ? Was wondering if the only difference was the controller and battery..I want to rip out the internal controller on a p250 or wondering if I should find a 350 for more power handling.

[@GrinTechnologies]

That's a good question that we don't actually have the answer to. It's possible that they are the same motor core just being run at different power and speed limits from the controller, and it's also possible that the PL250 is a smaller motor inside too. If you can find an exact weight spec for each motor, that would be a good indicator if one is actually larger than the other or not.

[@merkr212]

Hi! I have 2 older bionx cr(x) that I tore down, one is 250w/24v & the other is 350w/36v. There's a pretty significant difference in everyway really. The winds on the 350 were the first thing I noticed, they are perfectly neat and do not over lap like a yarn ball the way so many other motors are. The 350 also has a wider stator, slightly larger dia and appears to have bigger and totally different mags than the 250(gold tint).I took measurements and I'm pretty sure that the inside of the hub is the same diameter, so I would also be willing to bet the 350 has less of an air gap but can't say for sure.

[@zeroandplanb4life]

seriously i cant find shrink wrap to fit so i used electrical tape on the axle but for the most part i got the wires through without any ripping sounds didnt bother gluing the hall sensors in place as there already glued and since the stator is stationary with this motor seems to be perfect the way it is .... how many volts and watts can this motor take max im just going to run it at 36v 500w but i would like to see top speed the motor has super little resistance when rolling feels like normal wheel hub

[@zeroandplanb4life]

also my magnetic ring came off on the disc brake side resulting in almost no force or slamming when putting it back together idk why or if its messed up but seems to be good i have yet to test run

[@GrinTechnologies]

You can easily run the motor at 1000 watts or so for short times, and it's no problem to run it with a 48V or 52V pack for a higher top speed either. e

[@zeroandplanb4life]

Grin Technologies thank you for letting me know this lol I am getting my controller tommorrow then have to save up for one of yours lol thank you for the video and for the all the advice !

[@TheHeartCharmer]

I just purchased a Grace Easy with Bionx system. But, it has an intermittent fault. It sometimes delivers power ok and sometimes it does not. I think the motor is 350. The transmission is belt drive. It has G2 display and everything seems perfectly fine with the readout. I wonder if you could possibly offer me some idea of where I should start to try and fix this issue. I wonder if it is the controller that is at fault. The display + it's cradle, and the battery have been replaced to no noticeable effect. I need some expert advice :)

[@GrinTechnologies]

Unfortunately we never dealt with BionX or their proprietary electronics systems so can't offer any assistance with those BionX specific issues. I would say contact BionX or the dealer of the bike for help, but that's not very helpful advice at this juncture.

[@TheHeartCharmer]

@@GrinTechnologies Ok. I understand. If I carry out the procedure in this video, I will need a new controller and display to replace existing Bionx. Can you recommend a controller and matching display? I want something that will look neat and able to handle up to 1,000 watts and 48 v. Also, I have existing cables on the bike and wonder if the connections are universal or Bionx own. I imagine you may not have the answers to this question, but no harm in asking eh!? Cheers for your help.

[@TheHeartCharmer]

Hi again, I am going to do this to my Grace Easy Bionx 48v. I would like to ask you 2 questions please. Do you know if it will be tricky to take apart with the internal 3 speed gear mechanism? And would a brushless controller such as this one; Sensored Brushless Motor Controller KT48ZWSRLD-JDF01R DC48V 17A be suitable? I'm thinking not, because it is sensored. But I don't know. If you can suggest a good controller and display that would work well that would be very helpful. I want to use on road and private land. So would like to try and be legal (pref at the flick of a switch). Hoping you can help. Now to watch your vid on wheel building.

[@AlbertoDPL]

I am working on a trike(95% made from discarded materials) that will be about 80 pounds and will carry 350 pounds I need it to travel 150 kilometers. Can I use a motor like this?

[@GrinTechnologies]

It would be fine on flat ground but would struggle up steeper hills Open the full description and click the link at the end to our motor simulator, then spend the rest of the day understanding how to use it and you can start making informed decisions. ;-)

[@bramvandekerckhove743]

@@GrinTechnologies Hello i have seen your explanation about DD engine's it was super intresting. Is it possible to add the bionx engine in your simulator? that would be super intresting. Thanks a lot

[@fun_ghoul]

@@bramvandekerckhove743 It's already on there. You have to click "SHOW ALL" at the bottom of the list first, then click it again and scroll to Bionx. PL350 is modelled with and without Statorade.

[@josecolon6584]

Can you do my motor look like cable got jammed. MOTOR IS NOT RUNNING FREELY 1500:W

[@medshadow1]

I have like this motor one mgnet are broken where can find the same !!!?

[@fun_ghoul]

Cherchez un autre tel moteur fucké...? "Doctorbass" a décrit comment recoller les aimants sur EndlessSphere. Bon courage, mon ami. endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16776

[@medshadow1]

@@fun_ghoul merci. Je lai réparer le moteur fonctione bien ca fait 20 jours

[@fun_ghoul]

@@medshadow1 Génial!

[@conniechung6948]

Thanks how much power can we push these ?

[@GrinTechnologies]

That would depend on the RPM. The faster you spin the motor, the more power in watts it can produce both for short term and continuous basis. Everything is modeled on our simulator, so click the link at the end of the video description.

[@mohammadhazzaz6793]

Hallo. Können Sie mir Helfen? Ich haibike SDURO Trekking 6.0 250W Yamaha PW-SE Motor. Und ich möchte Daumengas auf bauen. Hat das System Taste für laufn, kann mann bearbeiten in das System schneller machen? Viele Grüße

[@yvanlapointe7492]

allo jais une question pour toi comment supprimer les fils du moteur roues pour qu'il fonctionne avec deux fils seulement le positif et le négatif comme sur les vieux moteur roues jais deux moteur et j'aimerais bien qu'il fonctionne comme celui que jais a deux fils pour mon projet svp peut tu m'aider? a oui très beau travail merci pour t vidéo

[@ejonesss]

another solution is to reverse engineer the communications and use arduino or raspberry pi to talk to the controller. you may say what about the dmca? 1 bionx is out of business so there is no one to sue or even threaten a lawsuit. 2. even their lawyers got jobs with other companies thereby have no jurisdiction over bionx systems 3. you are in canada so unless canada has a similar dmca you are free to reverse engineer the communications and just make sure to post the programming files to a site like thepiratebay where they will not remove anything over copyrights

[@fun_ghoul]

I'd bet Bionx's intellectual property was sold off in the bankruptcy, so whoever owns it could sue you if you tried to commercialize it. That said, nothing ever stopped anyone from reverse engineering their own bicycle.

[@tonyfrewin4822]

Thanks for the info

[@t77777770]

Sorry I can't count it has 20 1.2 volts cells so would have 24 volts. No idea though what the original output would be for d sized nicads though.

[@fun_ghoul]

My BionX electronics outlived the stupid hub, which cracked along the cast-in "rings". If you see Frank Stronach, kick him in the knackers for me, would ya?

[@GrinTechnologies]

Will do. We don't exactly share common circles with the likes of Mr. Stronach, but if the opportunity ever presents itself....

[@sunstormev8214]

Why are you calling them Bionicks? Also the batteries are manufactured by BMZ in germany. Also Great video.

[@francoisz5275]

Impact wrench had been much more efficient to remove the freewheel with ease

[@JohnJohnson-tm4cy]

My bionx was a joke. I could not go more than 5 miles on the second assist level. Level 1 just eliminates the drag and counters the weight. I guess I weigh to much for these. I gave it away was not of any use to me rather just ride a quality bike instead of a 50 plus pound set up.

[@wheeler2581]

why can't you just buy 2 12 volt liquid sealed batteries and hook them into the bionx battery holder i mean 24 volts is 24 volts what ever batteries can the system tell where the 24 volts are coming from ni-cad,lithium,and or acid sealed? like the one i have is 20 d size 10000 mah i mean C size are 1.2volts with 1000mah or aa size 1.2 volts what 1800mah won't they all work just less mah's and just hook the up before the senser's i wonder?

[@GrinTechnologies]

It can indeed tell that there is no communication board on your lead acid battery to talk with the rest of the system and so will not power up and run. Many other ebikes only require a + and - connection to the battery pack and so will work with just about any battery that has the right voltage, but Proprietary ebikes like BionX, Bosch etc. also talk with the battery over a special protocol.

[@davel2119]

I just finished wiring in a China battery 24v- 10ah. Bullet style. Made a circuit board box and put it in a triangle frame bag. 2 black wires/2 red wires. Didn’t use any sensors on Bionx batt as new batt already has protection. Now I’m surprised it worked after watching this.

[@BStudioT]

15:39 for Marci

[@franciscoamorim6038]

Hello to all. My bad experience with bionX came when I've replace the cells on the battery boxe. Bike will ot work anymore. All is off. Reset tentative also already dne. No beeppings from the buzzer. I guess the battery control board is dead. Find this video on my searches and very helpfull. Very probably I will go to this hack but that will be my end of the line. I love the control features of my ktm with this system. I'm now looking for a replacement for my battery control board, name is SMART CONNECT 5.2. Battery pack is 36V. If any one knows were to find I will be very greatfull. Thanks to all.

[@izzzzzz6]

You did not remove the cassette how i would. Normally you need to block the cassette to stop it from spinning when you release the locking nut, however you did not need to lock it, so, what you actually did was you used a different tool deeper into the cassette and un-spun the entire thing from the motor casing. Normally, at least the bion X i have has a larger 4 tooth tool that fits that locking nut right on top of the smallest gear on the cassette. Besides all of that, you don't even need to remove the cassette it makes no difference to splitting the top part of the motor off. So anyone wishing to do the same should note the above and also the fact that the tool he used is not the standard cassette tool, it is a slightly different diameter. The bion x tool needs to be a slightly smaller diameter than the standard 12 tooth tool. So if anyone is stuck on this step the above will explain why and why you probably don;t even need to remove any of the cassette.

[@julikb]

i was thinking the same

[@memkev101]

We are in

[@Topsiekku]

Bionx is old mark

[@nuryou6960]

О можно транслит. Перевести на русский язык?

[@reinerfranke5436]

Thanks, nice additional repurpose to spend and temp sensor and outwire the strain sensor. There is also a previous transformation here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZqsf4tpp7iUl80 It seems to me that the transformation work effort done local would exceed the amount of buying a new direct drive. So it is only for hobby or educational reasons. You refer that the Bionx show significant less drag than other DD. Do you know the reason? Is this because of the stator pole shaping or material selection for the magnetic back short? Another option to free the system is to reprogramm the motor controller. The main downside which I found by reusing the Bionx motor controler board is that is lacking DC bus shunts and an accurate battery voltage detection for motor regulation. This is provided in the orginal system by the BMC but makes decoupling difficult. The battery temp is anyway lost in a decoupled system and therefore the Bionx approach is technical best but coupled. Because the first patents expire next year my guess is that strain and controler integrated DD will start and give much cheaper and easier to handle Kit solutions in the future. Obviously they need a coupled display but only DC battery connector. Getting central PAS of either type is a significant burden because of hassle and cost. A decoupled Bionx kind of DD will the ideal kit solution. What do you think?

[@GrinTechnologies]

"You refer that the Bionx show significant less drag than other DD. Do you know the reason?" I think this is mostly a combination of low pole pairs (11, vs 23 for most typical DD hubs) and good quality stator iron.

[@patony_1288]

Is there any way to re-wire my sexdoll to make her stop having a headache every other freaking night? I'm getting tired of her .

[@groovygrannysbicycle]

The Great Grin wiring series - Part 2: don't forget the lid. The master himself makes a newbee mistake and forgets that the cable needs to go through the lid before assembly. Two things here: 1 - write and follow a script, and 2 - use a better microphone.

[@fun_ghoul]

All your video prowess, yet your own video hasn't cracked 250 views in 2.5 years.

[@julikb]

@@fun_ghoul so ?

[@fun_ghoul]

@@julikb So they deleted their unwatched video. 😘

[@julikb]

@@fun_ghoul wich one?

[@fun_ghoul]

@@julikb The only one that the OP had on their page.

[@stevealdebaran626]

boring

[@MrAdamNTProtester]

Thanks a ton