How To Sand And Refinish Pine Floor - Satin Urethane - Ask Questions - Post Comments (Ep#28)

[@birdsfan3705]

Man that’s pretty. Well done

[@carolinaherrera559]

AMAZING 🤩

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

👍Thanks for watching!

[@arthurbandian604]

Hi, what grit do you use for pine time floor from start to finishing and how many times do you sand the floor before applying polyurethane? Thanks again

[@MelissaWilson-i7n]

Awesome job and music i'm about to do my heart pine floors this weekend do I need a drum and orbital sander or can I just use one of them along with the edger?

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

Best to drum sand, edger, and orbital sand it. Thanks for watching!

[@alexanderbalthazar5330]

Thank you for this detailed video, we have recently installed new pine floors, in some areas we have begun the staining process, however the stain is not the same color as it should be throughout the space, we now have to re sand the floors, in doing so do we refill with wood filler?

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

You can apply filler if you like, and it should be a stainable wood filler so it'll all look the same. Thank you for watching!

[@BigTex347]

I had the local sawmill (in East Texas) cut 6"x10' tongue and groove pine flooring. They kiln dried the wood and I installed it in a 100 year old building (I removed the original, damaged, oak flooring). The room measures 12'x30' exactly. The floor installation was completed by me and I had a professional carpenter sand, stain and poly the floor. The stain was applied one day, and within 24 hours the first coat of Minwax super fast drying Polyurethane for floors (semi-gloss) was applied by pouring the poly on the floor and spreading it with an applicator. The instructions state that you can re-apply a second coat of poly in 4 hours. The first coat was blotchy, a little too much here and not enough there. The second coat was applied one day later and it had the same splotchy issues. It was easy to see where the second coat was too thick and too thin. A third coat was applied the next day and it took forever to dry (four weeks and it never fully dried). Also, it developed large bubbles and soft spots where the poly was applied too thick and the outer layer was somewhat hard, but the first and second coat were still gummy and liquidy underneath. Finally, after waiting one month, the floor was walked on by hundreds of people during a grand opening for this building, and the polyurethane did not fair well. The large bubbles popped and the poly went everywhere, also the poly tore up in several places. I need to remove the poly coat and start over. What method would you recommend for removing 3 layers of poly coat? I don't plan to re-stain the wood. Thanks.

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

Sorry to hear of this. There are several things concerning to me..1st off I don't use that product as I've used it in the past and it didn't dry in 4 hours as they claimed, it also wouldn't harden properly but rather felt rubbery even after a couple days so I couldn't screen sand it between coats...also several years ago I was called out to correct a job by another contractor as the homeowner told me the guy poured a gallon of the Minwax semi on the floor and simply used an applicator to spread it telling the homeowner that the poly will "find it's own level". She freaked out and fired him, then called me. When I checked it out there were some areas 3/8" thick and other areas less than 1/16" so it didn't "find its own level" as he told her it would. Also you're in Texas so I imagine at this time of year it's at least 100F, and likely humid..the poly won't dry properly in high humidity. Also if the floor was stained first its integral to do a white cloth transfer check the following day after staining - preferably 24 hours later. Press a white cloth onto the stained floor, if any of the stain transfers onto the cloth you can't apply poly. The stain needs to be totally dry before applying poly. You can try screen sanding it first to abrade the existing finish, you may need to manually so you don't go through the poly and remove the stain. Try starting with 180 screen if its not working, or gumming up to quickly, you can drop down to 120 or lower, if that fails you'll need to sand it all off and redo the entire job. Good luck and thanks for watching!!!

[@BigTex347]

@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 Thank you - the contractor said he would "fix it" and I just wanted to get another professional opinion about what should be done. The poly was applied to the floor the first week in April, 2024. It has completely dried as of now. Some areas are flaked up like corn flakes or potato chips, and other areas look like moon craters where the bubbles burst. There are many shoe and boot prints in the poly, as it was soft and squishy on the grand opening day - we had to open - it couldn't be helped. Thank you for your advice. I'll follow-up with an up-date once we get the problem corrected. One final question: if you don't like the Minwax product, then what poly coat do you recommend? Thanks.

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

Duraseal or Fabulon for oil based

[@BigTex347]

@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 Thank you.

[@camwells9726]

Good video , I see other videos with guys smothering floor with gap filler after they have sanded , when is that required?

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

Filler may be applied wherever gaps are present. Realize, all gap filler will eventually break loose and lift from floor at some point. Factors such as seasonal temperature changes where planks expand and contract, moisture build up, and evaporation in planks, flexing of planks all contribute to the filler loosening then breaking away.

[@MuddyRiverWildlife]

I've watched your video several times and have to compliment and thank you for it! I'm in FL and about to start finishing a brand new pine floor. It is very flat, dry and tight. Would you think I could skip the drum sanding since and go right to the orbital since I'm not stripping any previous finish? I would appreciate any insight and thank you again, I really enjoy your videos!

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

To flatten the floor its's faster to drum sand the new unfinished softwood first prior to orbital sanding with the OBS 18. If the planks are reasonably flat before sanding, 60 grit on the drum should suffice as softwood breaks down very quickly. Plank ends are usually the more difficult areas to flatten as solid pine tends to warp. We have in the past used the OBS 18 to sand pine from start to finish. It just takes longer. Start with 36 grit on OBS 18. After several passes (5 or 6) over the 1st row of planks vacuum the dust pile then feel the plank ends to check for flatness. If its smooth and seamless with no bumps finish the remainder of floor. Then vacuum, progress to 60, then vacuum and finish with 80. Then apply your choice of finish.

[@jfelipino]

I have pine upstairs and oak downstairs. From watching your videos, I take it that pine has a way, way less aggressive sanding regiment. My question is, after you do the orbital with the 80 grit, and clean the floor, is is ready for a coat of poly? I've seen elsewhere where they do another 120 grit on top of the 80 but would that be overkill for pine? Is the 120 meant for oak? Thank you for your videos, they've been most helpful.

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

80 is good for oak or pine...if you want to go to 100 thats okay also. The screen sanding between coats will be 180, then 220...your floor will have a glass smooth finish.

[@jfelipino]

@@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101 Sounds great. Thank you for your knowledge.

[@pennychambless1481]

How long does it need to dry between coats ?

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

Oil based finish should dry between 6 to 8 hours, water based finish between 2 to 4 hours. Dry times are always printed on product labels. Thanks for watching!

[@Swenser]

I'm deciding between clear water poly that turns the white wood to a richer brown OR doing a poly whitewash to keep the lightness. I'm bored of brown,orange,yellow floors and like the look of enginnered light floorboards, but the whitewashing affect may come out blochy and silly looking. I'm stuck on choice but will probably risk and try the whitewash tomorrow. Wish me luck.

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

Take your time and it will look good 👍

[@deannacorbettwhite1]

How did the whitewashing affect turn out? I would love to see it; we are redoing our pine floor and we too are tired of the yellow/orange tinge.

[@kniknayme9865]

If the floor needs some repair spots would you fix then sand or sand then fix?

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

Do repairs first, then sand.

[@SWATT101]

Oh hey your in Bowmanville!...do you go up as far as Bancroft?

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

No sorry..try Higgins in Peterborough

[@ricardohernandez5399]

Floors look nice! What water based polyurethane in Satin sheen would you recommend?

[@HardwoodFloorRefinishing101]

Loba Viva satin