How to Secure Billet Steel Bars

this video is How i secure multiple billet steel bars.

[@MyBootinYorass]

Thank you for providing education for your viewers, it's always good to have someone out here making content for those eager to learn. Gonna pick it apart now lol... There's a case to be made regarding how to hook your straps on both sides of the "argument", for lack of a better word. In your example of how you do it the down side would be what happens if/when the strap becomes loose for various could-be reasons. I.E. load shifting a little, loosening the strap....the hook could simply fall off the rail and dangle, not securing anything, to any degree, at that point and there would only need to be about 3 inches of slack created for this to occur. A DOT wrap faces the multiple stitching and multiple layered side outward to resist abrasion and cuts, by design this type of wrap is protective. Federal reg doesn't require alternating pull to be in compliance, that is company policy and/or personal preference. Federal does NOT require 2 in the last 10....also, on that note, when articles of cargo are blocked from forwarded movement or placed in a position where it (forward movement) is prevented by bulkhead, other secured cargo, etc.. you are not required to place an additional tie-down in the first 10 ft. This is a misconception by many drivers that don't read their regulation book and continue on the word of whichever previous company(s) told them this. As always, you can use as much as you want, I'm just speaking on minimums.

[@roadlifewithchris1053]

i appreciate your comments. some trailers do not have hook pockets and keepers like fountaine trailers typically have and if the rub rail is rated with a WLL then the use of a DOT wrap is acceptable. i have spoken with multiple DOT officers in Oklahoma and Texas and if a trailer has designated securement points (Hook Pockets) it is preferred that they be used. you are correct alternating pull is not required by FMCSA it is a personal preference. also no the FMCSA does not specifically say 2 in the last 10 but it does discuss that you have 1 securement for every 10 feet of product so following that guideline will automatically give you the 2 in the last 10. I will do a better job of explaining that in the future to reduce any confusion. Texas, Oregon and Washington have stricter guidelines and require a securement every 5 feet. and you are correct that if forward movement is blocked by a bulkhead or other secured cargo then you dont need to throw an extra tie down however on loads such as lumber or plywood/osb on a standard flatbed without a bulkhead it is recommended to throw an additional tie down on the leading stack to prevent forward movement. again thank you for your comments discussions like this is an amazing way to help each other and learn new skills and methods

[@testosteroneinc.3800]

Thanks for these videos! After 20+ years pulling food grade tanker, I've decided to make the switch to flatbed. Found a mom and pop with 20 trucks, that will train me. I start May 1st!

[@roadlifewithchris1053]

Awesome congrats and flatbed is a rare bred lol also thanks for being a driver it keeps America going

[@tariqrobinson5689]

100% I do agree

[@lifeitsgreat]

Dot don't ask to pull opposite...a 48 feet trialer only have winches on the driver side

[@roadlifewithchris1053]

Correct DOT does not require opposite pull and many trailers are set up with winches on one side many however have the track for winches on both sides and can be set up with opposite pull. That is a driver preference and I am showing how I do things including my preference I don’t believe I stated that opposite pull was a DOT requirement I believe I was speaking to the spacing between straps

[@EVILROCK1995]

thanks for making vidoes like this im getting back in to flatbed and its nice to see how stuff is done

[@roadlifewithchris1053]

welcome back to the flatbed community and thanks for watching my videos be safe and i truly appreciate you

[@jeffreymendez7877]

Thank you

[@roadlifewithchris1053]

You're welcome

[@alexisschecter6554]

Nice video, thank you for the information!

[@roadlifewithchris1053]

Glad you liked it and thank you for you comment

[@ricandbinggomez363]

Thank you for making video for this. Please keep making videos on how to secure. Also, when do you check your load when yoo start driving. I was rold every 3 hours or 150 miles. I was told first 50 miles. What is the comfortable or right way on your experienced or what is your suggestion. Also, do you do it on rest area or truck stop. Thanks

[@roadlifewithchris1053]

Will do thanks and doing load checks is the first 50 miles and then every 3 hours or 150 miles and also every time you make a duty status change so fueling or during post and pre trip inspections bathroom breaks plus while your driving your checking straps and chains during your mirror checks I do most of my load checks in rest areas because it’s quicker to get in and out there and trucks stops take more time always waiting on other trucks to get out of the way

[@xbigman78x79]

Hey what was the pay like at Paul? I’ll be Alabama Regional.

[@roadlifewithchris1053]

Alabama regional was percentage so not sure if it still is

[@MayorofDipshittery-lq7if]

Am I right in thinking some states don’t let you hook straps onto rub rails and you must hook onto a separate anchor point or chassis ?

[@roadlifewithchris1053]

It depends on the trailer manufacturer for instance most newer Fontaine trailers have a hook pocket built into the trailer and it must be used as that is the rate anchor point for those trailers if a trailer is not marked or factory labeled with working load limit decals or plates then you should anchor to the strongest point of the trailer which is usually the winch track I have seen some that anchored to the frame of the trailer your best option is to research the trailer manufacturer to locate an identify the correct wll ratings for you specific trailer.

[@roadlifewithchris1053]

It not jut states that require that it’s also federally mandated that a trailer that has anchor points designed into the trailer are to be used because that will be the safest and strongest anchor point. And yes some states don’t like using rub rails as anchor points unless the manufacturer has listed a wll rating specifically for the rub rail for instance a reitenour trailer typically has the rub rail rated

[@jimbojimson]

Yeah where I drive we're not allowed to have anything whatsoever on the outside of the rub rail, it's gotta be hooked underneath