How to set a boulder - professional routesetter making of // routesetting in bouldering gyms

[@Ascentyon]

"Never shut them down at the start" - Very wise words! The boulders I hate the most are the ones where the start is super awkward. Let me at least start the problem before it gets difficult.

[@wasabichips]

Personally im relieved when thats the case. It starts off hard to get easier. But it it gets harder then that then imma have to head out on that one haha.

[@nilsp9426]

I actually like the odd bad start. It really makes you think hard when it happens and I learned a lot from hard starting moves. But ofc it should only be 10% of the boulders, so you can experience a larger variety of moves overall. Wouldn't it be a funny curveball to set a boulder where the start is simultaneously the top, but holding it is terribly tricky?

[@SleepyCrystalStudio]

I really appreciate the mentality behind the different body types. Being on the shorter side, I get a little discouraged when all of the problems at the gym require me to make dynamic moves, even at the start! "Never shut them down at the start" It would be cool to see different types of people climbing the problem after seeing your whole process behind it. Thanks for the awesome video!

[@nilsp9426]

This really makes me appreciate when routesetters put in the time to get it right. From what I saw, the boulder improved a lot with testing and tweaking. Maybe I should keep that in mind when I see some boulders hang on the wall for months and instead value their high quality a bit more!

[@imagzz4942]

As a fellow climber and routesetting that's only 16, i love watching these videos. They teach a lot, give a lot of insight, and it's great inspiration. Someone else already said it, but i'll say it too. These videos are great, I love them, and I could watch them forever while still having fun and learning! Would love to see more :)

[@BetaRoutesetting]

thank you so much! we try to do some more in the next time ;) would you like to share some of your boulders? cheers niki

[@imagzz4942]

I would, though it will most likely be a little while, as i need a new phone (not enough money for a camera, haha), or/and need to try out my GoPro. I'll look into sharing photos too :) It's super fun, and I'm very passionate about it. I've made a playlist stuffed with videos which I think in one way or the other are great for routesetters. Also, I'm guessing you'll keep doing those too anyways, but I really enjoy your analyzations of the world cup problems too. Very exciting and full of information!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

sounds great! let us know if you have any questions :)

[@imagzz4942]

Sure thing! I'll let you know once i get to uploading something, though it might be a little while, as it's currently the time of exams.

[@SkipBaney]

Love these videos. Hearing the rationale behind your decisions is super valuable. I feel like a learn a ton, both about setting and climbing in general. Thank you!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

yeah! that sounds great :) you´re welcome! niki

[@OnBouldering]

Good stuff! Keep them coming!

[@adehaan11]

Love watching the process! Could watch these all day!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

sounds like something we´d approve ;) try some climbing in between! thank you!

[@ginachen8460]

I love your route setting videos! I want to try route setting myself, but I'm not really sure how to start (and I've only been climbing for about a year, so I'm worried I don't have enough experience). I could watch setting videos all day! I really like the route you set. It looks like a lot of fun, and I'm glad you make sure to think about climbers of different heights and builds while you set! It's always really frustrating to find a climb that would be so easy for a taller climber that I struggle really hard with because I can't reach the same holds. Also I appreciate that you try to make the starting positions and first moves manageable so that people will try the boulder a lot! I get so frustrated when I find a boulder where I can't even get off the ground. Thanks so much for the videos, and please keep making them!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

we will! how about you just ask at your local gym if you can volunteer or have a peak for one day? it´s not always important to be the best climber or strong, just be open and being a team player is very important as well! cheers niki

[@ginachen8460]

I think I'm going to try that! I know there's a really cool route setting apprenticeship program at one of the local gyms, and I might try and apply for that.

[@WanderlustVanlife]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video, I really enjoyed it! Cheers.

[@BetaRoutesetting]

no worries! it´s our pleasure :) stay safe and warm on your travels! cheers niki

[@somaini2]

Brilliant work! It's fascinating to watch the evolution of the route develop. Can't wait to learn more!

[@moominlemurien4052]

Love this ! Every time I have fun on a boulder problem I wonder how did the routsetter came up with this idea

[@SachaGreif]

Great video. Funny to hear you say "never shut them down at the start", I climb in Japan and hard starts are super common here. Part of the reason is that gyms are smaller, so problems tend to start very close to the ground to take advantage of the entire wall height.

[@ruttonoise69]

thanks for all the good ideas and tips!

[@WayUpFilms]

Loved this video! A little suggestion: a wireless clip-on mic might significantly increase audio quality.

[@hAYASHII89]

9 degrees parra!

[@Okirai]

Hey Niki, I was just wondering how long the process of setting a climb takes from planning the climb, choosing the holds, setting and testing?

[@BetaRoutesetting]

depends on the problem, how complex etc. sometimes 20mins sometimes for comps longer than 2 hours until a day for one bloc was possible as well... i guess usually around one hour? roughly... this one took a little bit because of the filming etc. never rush!

[@birtegutmayer]

Bitte mehr von "How to set a boulder"

[@crespo9921]

Do you think the hold next to the top is necessary?

[@BetaRoutesetting]

Not for everybody. Just wanted to make it less scary because it’s very high up and if you’re scared to cross further it’s nicer where the penultimate is. Some people skip it but I don’t like to skip it because it offers more control and flow 😊

[@dashr4143]

What grade did you give it ??

[@BetaRoutesetting]

There are no “real” grades indoors at parramatta here. It’s something between V4-6ish in our gym indoor grading system. Fontainebleau grading something between 6a - 6b maybe? Grades...

[@vincentd333]

awesome, thanks!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

you´re welcome vincent! niki

[@wasabichips]

Its funny. The more chalk surrounding past holds usualy means they were harder. The ghost of bouldering's past.

[@jamesboreson]

I feel your pain.. We start setting routes at 7am!

[@swoggofroggo9320]

How do you become a routesetter? I know to get a job, you would need experience, so how do you get that experience?

[@keithdavison9642]

never shut them down at the start? most of your sets have a really tough/awkward start!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

Hey Keith! Which ones are you talking about? Alexandria or parramatta? Cheers Niki

[@keithdavison9642]

Beta Routesetting Alexandria mainly.

[@keithdavison9642]

But the purple in the cove at parra has a pretty stiff start

[@BetaRoutesetting]

which purple in the cove? do you mean to the left of the prow?

[@georgepilkington9350]

if you wanna see a cool slab problem, check out the video on my channel at the moment it’s awesome, i’m,so proud of it

[@Adamjen]

I liked everything except that wonky music.

[@SachaGreif]

Great video. Funny to hear you say "never shut them down at the start", I climb in Japan and hard starts are super common here. Part of the reason is that gyms are smaller, so problems tend to start very close to the ground to take advantage of the entire wall height.

[@BetaRoutesetting]

Yeah! And Japanese climbers are very very used to move in and out of uncomfortable positions honestly. They have a total different approach to fun at climbing. I guess even most „normal“ paying non comp climbers there don’t really care wether it’s comfy or not. Total different thing here 😊 At which gyms do you climb there? Do you live in Japan?