How to set a boulder - setting for a comp // challenges & difficulties

0:22 setting & testing the boulder
10:30 how to mark & strip a boulder after setting
11:35 birthday comp & finalists climbing the boulder
Welcome to another episode about how to set a boulder.
This time we watch niki set a women final problem for 9Degrees Parramatta first birthday competition.
Niki shows specifics which you have to keep in mind for setting a comp boulder.
Furthermore he´ll explain & show how to reset the boulder for the comp after the whole was stripped for qualification boulders - participants aren´t supposed to see the finals!
Stay tuned until the end to see how it works out for the finalists & how the boulder has been climbed in different ways!
9 Degrees Sydney offers climbing & bouldering in in 2 gyms - in Parramatta & Alexandria. It´s a great gym for every level, beginners to pros and offers new set boulders every week!
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9 degrees Parramatta
Unit 11 METRO CENTRE
38-46 South St
Rydalmere NSW 2116
Sydney, Australia
Website: www.9degrees.com.au
Email: [e-mail]
Facebook: 9degreesparramatta
Instagram: 9degreesparramatta
Gym Front Desk: 02 8872 1052
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QUESTION - Have a question about Bouldering, Climbing, Route Setting, Technique, filming or Anything Else? Post in comments section of this video!
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--------Cameras Used To Shoot This Video ------
Panasonic Lumix GH4
Lense:
Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 12-40 mm 1:2.8 - amzn.to/2vBvSUb
SanDisc 64 GB SD Card - amzn.to/2wv5TtB
Rode
This VIDEO was EDITED with Final Cut Pro on a Macbook Pro and iMac
About this video:
In this videos we behind Beta Routesetting share our passion for Climbing, Bouldering and our profession: Route Setting!
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[@jaegardoty1708]

It's nice to see that there's a growing space for highly specific analytical climbing content. Keep up the good work dude!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

ah we will thank you!

[@SkipBaney]

Nice to see all the work you did to make it not be height dependent pay off (considering the height difference of those three competitors). Great job!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

thank you! it´s always a gamble ;) cheers niki

[@BoulderingBobat]

Oh how we miss you Niki!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

i miss you too guys

[@sftd9703]

Awesome. Nicely shown how much work and effort is actually put into competition routsetting :).

[@BetaRoutesetting]

yes. adding all the concerns while the comp, it´s a thriller sometimes! :)

[@gramophoneloopers]

As a coach and routesetter I really enjoyed the video. Keep posting similar ones!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

we´ll try akos!

[@RonaldoMessina]

yours is by far the most interesting setting channel, keep it up Niki! It is curious that none of the climbers went really low on the dish, that would have made reaching for the screw-on around the arête easier. The points seem to indicated a sort of path to follow, would that not give away some beta?

[@tobiasthiel5291]

I think the point marks didn't give away anything that wasn't obvious anyways - that the problem climbs from left to right and then upwards.

[@RonaldoMessina]

Tobias Thiel My question about the points was "in general". In this case even if the points showed the screw-on, the first climber (Angie?) did not go for it on her initial tries.

[@tobiasthiel5291]

Oh, okay. I see what you mean. But thats more a question of knowing all the holds of the problem rather than actual beta isn't it? Because in the interview she said she first tried to use the screw-on after somebody told her it was there, which makes me wonder whether there was no observation period before the final.

[@RonaldoMessina]

I dunno if the points really give away some part of the beta. Maybe in some trick move with non-trivial order.

[@BetaRoutesetting]

yes in a non obvious tricky move it would but then we wouldn´t add points to clarify the sequence.. i guess. usually we use the system just in general to make it more obvious for the audience to know who´s leading and to show which moves are hard or could be the crux - because you get more points for the crux... thanks for your props!

[@liambeme]

510 mocasims yeah boi

[@tobiasthiel5291]

Great video.

[@kewinner1203]

I'm wondering how hard Boulders from a final are in specific grades? Is there a gap in witch between the difference is for boulders like this or is it depending on how good the routesetters expect the participating people to be? Am really wondering if I maybe would be able to stand a chance if im able to reach a final in such a comp or if i would just blame myself ^^

[@BetaRoutesetting]

grading indoor boulders & especially comp boulders is pretty hard. also keep in mind solving a final boulder all on your own raises the pressure and makes it more difficult for you. this goes into the "difficulty" of a final boulder: complexity, time pressure, being nervous... final boulders itself have different difficulties in the final set and an order which can be mixed up in case you want to raise the tension or not (always a big guess how it works out anyway...) i don´t know if you can reach finals at a comp - did you ever participate in one? and in case you make it into the finals everyone is with you - no one would blame you or stuff like that!

[@kewinner1203]

Ok thank you very much for this answer :) at the beginning of april i returned to bouldering from a 3 year break so at the moment im only at a personal best of 7a but i'm really looking forward on doing a few smaller competitions in the future and hopefully reaching the finals in one or two ^^

[@zennydoo]

Urban Climb represent!

[@BetaRoutesetting]

UC!

[@marcferrer3301]

How to routesetting? That s easy Rule 1: avoid double and triple dynos, that s parkour, not climbing Rule 2: set boulders that are REAL climbing

[@BetaRoutesetting]

Cool to know that you define whats "real" 😉

[@marcferrer3301]

@@BetaRoutesetting tell me, how many outdoors boulder have you seen with double o triple dynos? (link the vids, please, I wanna see them) You know why I mean: crimps, monos, two-finger pockets, sit starts...even that cool crack they made.... Some people call it classic routesetting.

[@betaglot]

What is a "droppable" move? 8:19

[@annika464]

Christopher Duncan I guess it means low percentage

[@BetaRoutesetting]

Yes. I meant low percentage move. Risky... easy to fall of! Thanks alte Socke for the explanation! Niki

[@guillaumenadeau621]

Best video of the reality of comp setting! We will definitly fly you in mtl for a training camp! (Movementfactory) !!! Please keep up the good work and awesome videos

[@matt014908]

Music 1:52 please?