How to Setup and Use Round Over Bits on a CNC Router

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Get the IDC Woodcraft round-over bits → link.idcwoodcraft.com/o8iz5h Get the Muscle Chuck for Makita → link.idcwoodcraft.com/8irif7

[@jeffreyhalye3281]

When do you think you’ll have a Muscle Chuck available for the Dewalt Trim Router?

[@phillipfreer6715]

Best tutorials I've found! Thank you!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

phillipfreer6715, you are so welcome brother!

[@LouCarusone]

Great video. I just got the round-over bits for Christmas and this helps explain what I needed to know. 😀

[@IDCWoodcraft]

user-do6jn2nb3n, I am so happy to hear that my friend! Happy CNCing.

[@earlthornburg9777]

Timing was perfect. I just ordered the 1/4 round over bit from IDC Woodcraft and then checked email and your video was up.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Earl, excellent timing my friend! I'm looking forward to you trying it out brother!

[@GyWO10]

I’m looking forward to this since I just bought them from you! 🤩

[@IDCWoodcraft]

GyWO, right on brother! Im looking forward to getting those bits out to you.

[@doggoneproductions]

Thanks Garrett, as a newbie your videos have really made it easy to get deep into CNC.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

profbyers, you are so welcome my friend.

[@Davesshoppe]

Great video showcasing how to use the round over bit! Something to try out in the future! Thanks for sharing Garrett! Dave

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Dave, glad it was helpful brother! I'm looking forward to seeing what you make with it soon! Happy cncing!

[@gregsettle1581]

Another great video, Garrett. I was familiar with roundover bits, but I learned a few new things. Also answered a question I was wondering about, which was using router bits with bearings. Thank you!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Greg, thanks for the kind words my friend! I'm glad the video helped clear up some confusion with the round over bit! Happy cncing!

[@ralphalameda1381]

Thanks Garrett Another great video on round overs bits. This would make better use of my time by using theses bits rather than on the router table. You made using the bits easy and instructions were right on

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Ralph, you're so welcome brother! You're absolutely right, the round over bit can definitely save you some major time with your projects. Happy cncing!

[@chrispelletier3661]

Very cool. Will be getting mine!!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

ChrisPelletier, right on brother! I am excited for you to pick up this game changer bit.

[@RickS5448]

As always Garrett, great and helpful information for the community!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Rick, happy to help brother! Keep up the excellent work my friend!

[@JoeCook-h6r]

Great job! Good information. I always appreciate your information/teaching. I find it to be very useful.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Glad it was helpful my friend! Happy cncing!

[@LYTOMIZE_Woodshop]

Time to up my game yet again... thank for constantly adding more to our knowledge base!!!! 👊

[@IDCWoodcraft]

LYTOMIZE_Woodshop, you are so welcome brother!

[@LYTOMIZE_Woodshop]

​@IDCWoodcraft Coming back for a refresher. I'll be adding beading to future projects... these videos aren't one time resources - they sort of grow as we grow. Hard to believe I'm almost three years into my journey - I keep growing with experience and through you and your videos.... new AND old!

[@metalmangler5507]

Thanks great demo your delivery is easy to follow and understand.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

metalmangler5507, you are so welcome brother!

[@michaellevine6019]

GREAT JOB Garrett!! I have not yet used any round-over bits with the cnc. Great tutorial and explanations on everything.....

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Michael, Looking forward to seeing what you make brother!

[@Kindbus]

I was actually going to email you and ask you how to do this. Bits set ordered thanks for the great video!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Kindbus, glad I could help my friend and that the timing worked out well for you! I'm looking forward to you giving it a try!

[@urbancare5972]

Thanks, Boss! Much appreciated- This makes it very clear! Mike in Maine

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Mike, you are so welcome brother!

[@spunkybrewster1972]

Awesome info, yet again! I found I was getting excessive tearout from my pointed roundover bits. I ended up slowing the feed rate, and making several shallow passes. It did help some, but it's far from perfect, and fairly slow going.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

spunkybrewster1972, I'm glad you found the info helpful! Slowing down and making multiple shallow passes can definitely reduce tearout, but it's great that you're experimenting to find what works best for your setup. Have you tried using a climb-cutting technique or a different type of bit? Sometimes switching to a compression bit can also offer cleaner edges. Keep at it, and you'll find the perfect solution!

[@paulbicknell4378]

Clear and detailed as always!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

paulbicknell4378, glad to hear it my friend. Happy CNCing.

[@TerrapinCreations666]

Did you seal the wood before applying the masking to prevent bleeding?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Absolutely! That's very important to do. Great question and insight!

[@wagsman9999]

Another great video. Thanks!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

wagsman, you are so welcome my friend.

[@oldNavyJZ]

Awesome video. There are times I want to use a roundover on the CNC, but for the most part, I find it far faster to do it manually with a trim router, which I can do in the time it takes me to change bits and set the Z.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

oldNavyJZ, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! You're right; sometimes a trim router can be much quicker for those roundovers, especially when you're looking for efficiency.

[@theyardsalellc6092]

Every time you do a video, i want to buy the bit.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

theyardsalellc6092, LOL well now when you get your round over bit you'll be ready to hit the ground running with it my friend!

[@KimFowler29]

very nice! great directions!! Thanks!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Kim, Thank you! Very glad you like the video

[@eddiejones4708]

Hi Garrett, do you have a tutorial on how you created the gear style for the clock face? As with all your info a great explanations. Keep up the good work, looking forward to Wednesday with Kyle.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

eddiejones4708, Hey! I'm glad you enjoyed the content. Unfortunately, I don't have a tutorial for the gear style clock face at the moment. Kyle and I have some exciting projects planned, so stay tuned!

[@bluesuede69]

Great video Garrett, thank you. I will try mine out on the next project I make, likely another cribbage board...😎

[@IDCWoodcraft]

bluesuede69, thanks brother! I'm looking forward to you giving it a try!

[@bubba6945]

I run an offset of .015 to remove that line left by the round over bit when i do the od profile cut

[@IDCWoodcraft]

bubba6945, That's a great approach! Adjusting the offset helps achieve a cleaner finish by compensating for the slight imperfections left by the round over bit. It’s always interesting to hear how other woodworkers tackle similar challenges. Happy machining!

[@BrianCobb-l9n]

Great training, thank you

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Glad you enjoyed it my friend!

[@JavierDeJesusSr]

Great video. Which I would have seen it earlier cause I have a question... If the radius is the same as your stock thickness, can you use it to cut out your piece at the same time?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

JavierDeJesusSr, you sure can brother but for the cleanest cut and longest life for your bit I suggest you use a seperate profile toolpath to cut out your project first.

[@NWGR]

Garrett, I downloaded your database for carveco maker and noticed that the beast isn't in there. Do I just select the 1/4" upcut?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Use the data that is in the IDC Woodcraft app. Of you didn't have it, just go to your app store and search IDC Woodcraft. Either apple or Android

[@JS111952]

Garrett, great video on the round over bits. Question did you cut through the material with a profile Toolpath prior to using the roundover? If yes, what kept the material in place? Tabs, Instant Glue?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

JS111952, I sure did use a profile toolpath to cut it out prior to using the roundover brother! For this project I used the painters tape and super glue method.

[@lylehandeland8020]

Is the muscle chuck available for a cnc spindle?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

I didn't have it for spindles unfortunately but got the the muscle chuck website. I'm pretty sure they have them there

[@PaulSchuster-yj4zb]

I have not zeroed from the machine surface before. When doing so, do you set the material depth at its actual distance or add a bit? AND when using the rounding bit in this context, and considering the cutting depth for the roundover bit is critical, causing the appearance to vary with small changes, do problems show up if you are cutting stock with slightly different thickness... or How critical is consistent stock thickness when zeroing off of the machine bed and using form tools like the roundover bit?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

PaulSchuster-yj4zb, great question brother! Zeroing from the machine bed can be super useful, especially when your material isn't uniform. You measure the material thickness, tell your software, and you’re good to go. This way, even if there's a little inconsistency in your stock thickness, it won’t mess with your cut depth as much because your starting point remains the same. With a roundover bit, getting that cutting depth just right does matter a lot for that perfect edge. If your material thickness varies and you're zeroing from the bed, you might see some differences in the profile. But if your pieces are pretty close in thickness, it should all work out okay. If you’re really looking for precision or your stock varies a lot, zeroing from the top might be the way to go for each piece, particularly when you're aiming for a flawless roundover finish. It's a bit more work, but hey, it can give you that consistency. Hope this helps, and if there’s anything else you’re scratching your head over, just holler. Always here to help out!

[@craigmc2223]

Very nice video, thank you. I haven't tried this yet but suspect that any unevenness in the CNC bed will cause noticeable issues when using these round over bits? Also, very much looking forward to the day America adopts the metric system 😅

[@IDCWoodcraft]

craigmc2223, I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Unevenness in the CNC bed can definitely affect the quality of the cut, especially with roundover bits, so it's great to make sure everything's level before starting. And adopting the metric system would certainly simplify things for many woodworkers!

[@williamvalachovic]

As usual Garret awsome video! FYI cnc'rs, IDC is the only place to buy your bits!! Garret is teaching us for free . They earn from what we purchase.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

williamvalachovic, Thanks for your kind words! It's great to see the community supporting one another.

[@billholt5573]

Hey Garrett. Is the muscle Chuck still available? I don’t see it in your store.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

billholt5573, The muscle chuck is currently not for sale. Some CNCers were having problems with them and I want to make sure the product is perfect before releasing it again brother!

[@JamesLinger-wl8sq]

it seems to me that I could put a round over bit in and use the 1/4 inch endmill tool selection as long as you are cutting on the line and remember to set your depth of cut for the roundover bit. The simulation would be different but how would the machine know the difference. Also can the muscle chuck be used in a 3 hp spindle. Thanks

[@IDCWoodcraft]

JamesLinger-wl8sq, that would be a great call for a setup brother! As for the muscle chuck, not yet Ive been working directly with muscule chuck to provide more options for spindles in the future. Ill keep you in the loop!

[@peterlokhorst6881]

Very helpful

[@IDCWoodcraft]

PeterLokhorst, so glad to hear that my friend.

[@kaseylarson3266]

Great informative videos! Thank you! What's the best way to eliminate witness marks when routering HDPE is it the same idea as changing to a shallow last pass depth? Using an o flute up cut bit. Thanks in advance

[@IDCWoodcraft]

KaseyLarson, great question! To minimize witness marks when routing HDPE with an O flute upcut bit, a shallow last pass is effective. Additionally, ensure your bit is sharp, your machine is stable, and the feed rate and spindle speed are correctly set to prevent the plastic from melting. A consistent cooling method to keep the material cool can also help achieve a smoother finish.

[@kaseylarson3266]

Fantastic thanks so much for answering my question! I really appreciate your help!

[@TerryBarlow-o4r]

Using this form tool does it make a difference if you select a climb cut versus a conventional cut? Always enjjoy and learn from your videos.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Brother, this one really depends on the wood, grain, and specific project you're working on. In some instances yes, but its a little tricky to walk you through over comments. I recommend joining Kate and I for our weekly live sessions we host every Wednesday at 8PM EST and we should be able to give you some tips!

[@jeffteeter501]

Oh, brother! I am reminded of my apprenticeship where I learned to grind my own form tools. Is the shank on your round over bits, hss or carbide?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Jeff, great question brother, the shaft of the round over bit is HSS and the tip of the bit is carbide!

[@cnclaserarteu]

Thank you.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

tangovictor-q8m, You're very welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed it.

[@TetraCNC]

Nice I just bought both round over bits when I got the badger and wondering how to use them, now I don't have to experiment as much. I was going to ask With the bead - do you need to run the round over tool path first or can you run it as one but I see you already answered that question below - Yes Multiple passes

[@IDCWoodcraft]

TetraCNC, right on brother! I'm looking forward to seeing what you create with them now my friend! Happy cutting!

[@johngibson540]

Hi Garret, great vid as usual. One question about using a round over. If you have a finished project eg a cutting board and you wanted to round over the edges, is it possible to measure so accurately that you can achieve a consistent round over? John

[@IDCWoodcraft]

John, that is a tricky one brother. For that I might recommend that you perform the roundover manually with a manual roundover bit.

[@johngibson540]

Garret one further question. Is it advised to protect the edges of an end grain board in case of chip out and if so, how? What settings would you advise eg feed rates etc? John

[@timothyburchfield2220]

What happened to the Muscle Chuck? I can't find it on your site.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

timothyburchfield2220, We've discontinued the Muscle Chuck due to changes in our product line. Our current focus is on providing the best woodworking tools and accessories for our customers. Thank you for your understanding.

[@timothyburchfield2220]

@@IDCWoodcraft I understand. But, perhaps you should remove the reference to the Muscle Chuck from the video so others do not go on fruitless searches like I did. BTW, excellent video otherwise.

[@cablsurfin]

Would a V bit be able to do the same cut as the 1/8 rnd in this case? If so, what's the advantage of using the 1/8 rnd? Thanks.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

cablsurfin, Excellent question brother! It all depends what you're trying to do with the cut. A V bit would be able to make the same cut, but the edge would be straight. I was looking to get a gentle curve in the Ying Yang design. That's why I chose to cut with the IDC 1/8 Round Over bit.

[@cablsurfin]

Ah, that makes sense. Thank you for clarifying.

[@HowToFromMeToYou]

Hey Garrett another great video! Will that muscle chuck fit the routER11 router ?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

HowToFromMeToYou, not yet brother! But I have been working with Mucsclechuck to provide more options to routers like yours in the future.

[@HowToFromMeToYou]

@@IDCWoodcraft thanks Garrett, keep me posted... I'd like to get one ASAP

[@JOHNGARNETT-r2z]

The 1/4 inch roundover seemed to magically cut through the 3/4 inch material?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Sometimes it feels like magic brother. If I understand your question, you're asking why I used the 1/4 inch round over on about 3/4 inch material. The 1/4 inch refers to the cutting radius of the bit, not the bit length. I was looking to get about a 1/4 inch radius on this project in addition to the Bead cut. To Accomplish this I used the IDC 1/4 Round over bit for the curved edge. At the end of the video I show that extra little line on the project that you can sand off, that line is where the tip of the bit stops. That line shows where the bit stopped being able to cut. Hope that helps!

[@JOHNGARNETT-r2z]

You did not understand my question. It appears on the video that the ¼ inch roundover bit, when used to create the upper 1/8-inch step, is cutting through a ¾ inch material. That is not possible. I have used roundover bits for many years on a router table to achieve an similar appearance, such as on the edge of a dining table. I feel that a second cut with any vertical bit would be necessary to complete the separation of the pattern form the stock. It appears to me that you used MDF for the video, I assume for ease of demonstration. I only am working in hard woods; therefore, I believe your presentation is either incomplete or disingenuous for folks new to woodworking. I do not intend any disrespect for your bit. I have used it and it delivers the expected round edge. I am now trying to perfect the so-called bull-nose with your bit on the Longmmill. Respectfully, John Garnett

[@tsmarcot]

Garrett mentioned that he is doing the cutout first and just shows a quick video if that process as it was NOT related to the roundover bit toolpath. He used a strait bit and you can see it briefly after he mentions that he was not going to show the cutout process in detail. You are correct that a roundover bit is not the correct bit to use for a cutout, but please remember that Garrett is professional and is well aware of this. There is no need to leap to conclusions and accuse him of being "disingenuous" when the video shows that a strait bit was used. @@JOHNGARNETT-r2z

[@Sil3nt1985]

What masking material is it you are using?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Sil3nt, I use Oramask. I absolutely love the stuff. Makes painting and finishing projects so much easier. Here's a link amzn.to/3RCMKkL

[@Sil3nt1985]

@@IDCWoodcraft Thank you so much. It looked like it cut away so easy. I've had other stuff that would rip off as the cutter passed.

[@casenundra78]

Do you have a Muscle Chuck that will fit the Carbide 3D router ?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Not yet! I have been working with muscle chuck to provide more options for machines like yours so thanks for your feedback on that one. Ill keep you in the loop!

[@kenyounce4479]

@@IDCWoodcraft Desperately need one for the X Carve Pro spindle! That is time savingly AWESOME!

[@sinsofvorador]

When are y'all going to have the muscle chuck in a er11 size

[@IDCWoodcraft]

sinsofvorador, not yet brother! I have been working with muscle chuck directly to develop something like this for your ER11 collet. Ill keep you in the loop!

[@sinsofvorador]

@IDCWoodcraft awesome. Love to get my hands on one

[@pigpickler]

The link to the Muscle Chuck is wrong. It takes you to industrial calipers.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

pigpickler, Thank you for bringing this to my attention. I will update the link as soon as possible!

[@SamAgro2024]

I am posting this here because this channel seems to be very knowledgeable in the field. I want to punch very precise multiple holes (0.5 - 1mm diameter) on a sheet of substrate (similar to PCB but softer rubber like) reproducibly using a cheap chinese CNC machine. The sheet is already marked with circles where the holes should be made. I am aware that the XY 00 can be set every time i place a substrate workpiece on the bed. However, the substrate overall dimensions are not always accurate and therefore, there will always be some rotational misalignment of the entire layout each time i place a new substrate. I am wondering if there is any way of manually providing the software 2 or more reference points across the substrate (e.g. one at xy=00 and others at the far end of the substrate and the layout) so it knows the angle of rotation and maintains the alignment and hole locations precisely within the circles on the substrate matched with the CAD drawing? The second part of my question is whether i can connect an automatic center punch (with a hole pin instead of a solid punch pin) instead of a drill and tell the machine to simply lower down where holes need to be made. Then move up, go to the next position and lower again and so on.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

SA-wp4vt, This one is a little tricky to walk you through over comments my friend. I recommend joining Kate and I for our live sessions we host every Wednesday evening at 8PM EST. We should be able to help walk you through it then brother!

[@vigenboghossian6452]

Hi there is your product available on amazon

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Vigenboghossian, I sure do brother! Here is a link: www.amazon.com/IDC-Woodcraft-Edge-Rounding-Bit/dp/B0C9NQWFHZ/

[@vigenboghossian6452]

Thank you

[@jimpalmer1944]

Good to know.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Jim, glad it was helpful brother!

[@bentebrunsvelt319]

Super cool 😂😂😅

[@IDCWoodcraft]

bentebrunsvelt, so glad you enjoyed this one brother.

[@zachmiller4981]

How do you zero x and y ?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

zachmiller, I have a video that should really help you brother! Here is a link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5Knfq2ilL-LjMksi=OG1vMKMLR9xIIG0s

[@zachmiller4981]

@@IDCWoodcraft Thank you !

[@zachmiller4981]

So in the video I watched is it the same process you would do with a roundover bit ?

[@jeffcrawford3458]

Your tool database does not work for Vcarve pro 9.5. 9.5 is tool_db wont let me import

[@IDCWoodcraft]

jeffcrawford3458, sorry about that brother! Vectric made a change with version 10. Sorry I cant help you on this one. Here is a video to manually import: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bGiTia2dm5V_n6Msi=8UoIBfOsSEokvYAn

[@seannalexander]

oh what a coincidence, I just bought this bit.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Sean, excellent timing brother! I'm looking forward to you giving it a try for yourself!

[@windmillbk]

I really like the way you stick with the training on-hand. It would get so confusing if you had to show everything. Not to mention a very long video.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

CRSpices, glad you liked this one my friend! Happy CNCing.

[@wadetomczyk8043]

Now a video I can watch fully all others eh toooo long I get bored fast haha.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Wade, fair enough brother sometimes I do get a little long winded! I'm glad you enjoyed it! Happy cncing!

[@emostorm7]

Hi Garrett

[@IDCWoodcraft]

emostorm7, thanks for watching my friend!

[@raadouro226]

If I want to spend about $5000 on CNC which one should I buy

[@IDCWoodcraft]

raadouro226, I have a video that should really help you narrow down your CNC choice. It will really help you determine what to look for when buying a CNC. Here is a link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rX25f3lmgZKNmrc

[@TheUnionStreetWorkshopcom]

If you were going to do a beading profile from the start would u have to make multiple passes to reach full depth?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Hi Mike. Yes you would. Great thinking about how to do this!