How to Setup the Woodland Mills Sawmill Blade Tooth Setter

Join me today as I show you how to setup the woodland mills sawmill blade tooth setter. I'll also show you how I revive old rusted sawmill blades that I had lying around using my angle grinder and wire wheel. With a bit of effort, you can save a tonne of money by reusing blades once they begin getting dull. Today I show you how I set the teeth on my Lennox sawmill blades sold by Woodland Mills using the newly released Woodland Mills Sawmill Blade Tooth Setter. With a very easy-to-read owners manual, setting teeth turned out to be a very easy task once I learned the proper technique. I'll also show you in this video how the teeth on a Lennox blade are angled and why setting them back into their original specifications is important to cutting performance. Although I think the Woodland Mills Sawmill Blade Tooth Setter is a great tool, check out my video and you can be the judge. Thanks for watching everyone! Here we go!

[@davidwhalen2924]

I hope you didn't have to pay for that Woodland's Mill hat you wear so often when doing videos. You have promoted so many of their products in a very positive light ... as well as frequently. If Woodland Mill's marketing department was on top of their game, they would be mailing you out some free accessories every so often as a "thank you" and in hopes that you would be even more flattering about their excellent products. Many have great faith in Woodland products and rightly so. Still, a package of five or ten new blades once in a while would go a long way to say a big "Thank You" to "Mister Sandy".

[@marshallbower68]

Run the blade on the mill with water and hold a wire brush on either side takes the rust off quick

[@sawingwithsandy]

That would do the trick!

[@bryansaunter9632]

Your video is much more informative than that of woodlands. Yours is a training vid versus sales, thanks Sandy

[@stevenkofoed1698]

Hi Sandy, you might want to try "Evaporust" on your saw blades. WD-40 makes one too but either would work on your saw blades.

[@laurieslade9344]

Hey Sandy, love the videos. You have inspired me to buy a woodland mill ( the 30 max) Is the assembly of the mill difficult?

[@bluethunder1951]

Sandy, just a couple of things, when you want to buff the inside of the blade just turn it inside out, that way its the same technique for both sides, and easier to manage with the blade below the board. As for flipping the tooth setter around to do the other bend, wondering if also turning the blade inside out would work, that way the handle is always pressing in the same direction away from you, it looked awkward to manage by having to pull towards you. Btw very informative show, thanks.

[@Bass4R3nt]

its a squeeze not a pulling motion the whole purpose of the design was to not have to mess with the blade flipping

[@bluethunder1951]

@@Bass4R3nt I’ve had the setter now for a few months, and sharpened about sixty blades, if you are right handed it works best to turn the blade inside out, Sandy is a south paw, so he didn’t know about that.

[@aeromech93]

Freakin GREAT video Sandy. Thank you! How about that non-offset tooth? In your experience does it tend to stay non-offset? Unless a guy hits something, I would think so. In any even I imagine a careful inspection of the blade will tell a guy if that non-offset is bent. Then I supposed it's just marking it and slightly pushing it back to center?

[@sawingwithsandy]

I find the non offset tooth stays there unless I hit something by mistake

[@heyyoubuddy6749]

Hey there buddy how are ya? Looks like another product I need to have bandit on top when it’s time to get the millThanks as always for showing us how to do the stuff I appreciate you sharing God bless you and yours

[@CaptMike]

Normally, how often does one have to reset the teeth?

[@sawingwithsandy]

I usually check the teeth every time I sharpen

[@CaptMike]

@@sawingwithsandy Thanks!

[@jonheron2604]

Should you set the blades before sharpening or after? I am going to start putting my setter and grinder together now

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi Jon. I prefer to set before sharpening

[@Wedget]

Hi Sandy, does wire buffing your blade damage the cutting edge on your set teeth?

[@sawingwithsandy]

I think it will dull it for sure but haven't noticed any damage

[@tomcrank8701]

This ia a very good video to watch after reading the manual. Puts everything into perspective and takes the edge off the learning curve!!! Thank you!!!!

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great to hear that Tom

[@newfoundlandsawmilling9023]

Great video bud

[@josephperillo7992]

you have a good system going on there good job

[@widukind4834]

Gruß aus Deutschland

[@sawingwithsandy]

Dankeschön

[@canam800r]

I'm wondering if the setter can be bolted to the stand for the sharpener?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Not a bad idea I’m not too sure

[@rogercalza9936]

Please forgive me if I am silly but...Blades are made by first cutting the tooth and gullet. That process causes the sharpening of teeth. Then the teeth are set left, right and left center. So the sharpened edges are twisted away from when formed. In contrast,,,,,We sharpen a dull blade with the teeth set. So our sharpened teeth derive a very different (and uniform) cut angle. This does not seem to be what occurred initially during blade formation,. Am I incorrect?

[@KumarsssKumarsss-l2i]

I want this itam p

[@larrymajorana9269]

Goodness sake hold the camera STILL

[@sawingwithsandy]

Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching

[@garyreinoehl804]

You made a nice video, but I have been messing with this thing for 3days and I cannot set it up so that every tooth ends up the same and for me that’s not acceptable, the blade sharpener works very good though.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Be sure to start right after the weld in the blade and end right before it as the distance between teeth on each side of the weld may vary slightly.

[@garyreinoehl804]

I didn’t mean that the teeth don’t line up I meant that the degree of the tooth set is different on each tooth, in fact I’ve even brook the tip of some of the teeth.

[@misterbrucew]

You'll need realllllyyyy good steel in a blade before the set will be acceptable to any one that deals in less than a thousandth.......

[@dherman0001]

@@garyreinoehl804 Some of the higher carbide more expensive blades will break teeth when setting.

[@gotti5472]

Sandy did you build the work shop or was it there when you bought the property ?

[@Bass4R3nt]

kings head pub.... had some good times there well visiting

[@denismorissette419]

Ho ho!! I see you have been raise with the metic system, I didn't. I was continously wondering how much it is in thousand. 0.000. I'll find it soon because I' ll receive my sharpening kit next week. Tank you for your demonstration.

[@alexanderwlad6689]

1.2mm is around 0.0472’’

[@charlesdaily5549]

So I just go my setter. I put an old blade on to set it, but there is no pitch that I can see left on this blade. Would you say it is shot or should I just start it from scratch and set it the way I want?

[@sawingwithsandy]

If it cuts well without saw marks on the lumber I’d just resharpen it as is. If it’s not cutting well I’d add my own set and cut a bit with it. If it cuts great then You’re all set up but if it doesn’t may need new blade

[@Mark-dp3zf]

What about soaking the blades in vinegar?

[@scooter2049]

that's a lot of work to save 25 bucks

[@bobmitchell5826]

Hello, so your working with a skip tooth blade set, not sure i agree with cleaning wires brush method rust Prevention works for me. (Maybe a brass wire brush) As well consistent set ensures consistent mill results. Tension is important as well. Good vid. Lots to offer as i worked in business years ago. Good stuff sandy. Cheers Bob

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks Bob. I normally wouldn’t let the rust get as bad as it was in that situation but I figured since o was going to originally just discard these blades I could instead use them to learn my new setter and sharpener. Thanks for watching

[@thereedychronicles8572]

Nice job!

[@drandrewclarke]

genuine question and not a criticism but does it matter cleaning the surface rust off the blade if the cutting surface is sharp?

[@sawingwithsandy]

I normally wouldn’t have surface rust on the blades that would need removal but these blades were quite old. I find if I take the rust off it just moves through the sharpener and setter more snoothlu

[@drandrewclarke]

@@sawingwithsandy yes, mine leaves the rust on the setter

[@adambabiuch1298]

keep the videos coming!

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks Adam !

[@charlesdaily5549]

Just got mine today

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great to hear that Charles. Will be a great addition to your tools I bet

[@wilmamcdermott3065]

Can tell the boards you used for the door were green

[@sawingwithsandy]

Yeah the shrinking of the boards as they dried opened up a good gap in some spots for sure. Thanks for watching Wilma.

[@wilmamcdermott3065]

@@sawingwithsandy sorry Iam Dennis i use her tablet . i ordered one of those set tools

[@wilmamcdermott3065]

Blades here cost 40 dollars each

[@dannyhylton3467]

Just got mine!

[@sawingwithsandy]

Right on!

[@derekbueckert7428]

the sharpener and setter are for people who dull a bade at least 5 times a month. and I feel its good value for the price. but I personally feel time is my greatest asset so when its time to cut either get someone who has professional equipment to do it or spend a lot more and get something to cut time in half hours sure do add up if you gotta sharpen sixty blades per month

[@sawingwithsandy]

I can see what you’re saying there Derek. Makes sense in your case

[@vinny9988]

Sounds like a big pain in the ass. Do pliers not work?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Problem with pliers is there’s no way to measure how far I’m bending the tooth

[@aeromech93]

Repeatability would be a problem too. Just one tooth being offset too much will mark up the cut board or plank surface in proportion to how far off it is, so I've heard and experienced a little bit.