Woodland Mills Grindlux 4000 Sharpening Lenox Blades

[@bluethunder1951]

Hey Sandy, keep an eye on the build up on the side of housing from the sparks, it really packs in there tight and could cause alignment issues if not removed periodically. Also one thing I do is always start on the tooth next after the weld, as some times the weld has a different spacing and could throw off the settings causing the grinding wheel to take off to much, due to a shorter stroke at that tooth. Also if the weld spacing is longer it’s opposite it will not take enough off. I usually stay with a blade for it first time being sharpened to reset the tooth spacing sometimes having to back the blade up to get right, then after that it’s usually ok for next time. All in all its a fairly simple process, and, as I do other things around the shop I listen for any change in the grinding sound. Very informative show, thanks.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I appreciate all the tips. You definetly gave me some great info that will surely save me from damaging any blades as I continue learning about this new tool. Thanks again

[@bluethunder1951]

I sharpen blades for locals for a small fee, so it pays to get it right, no complaints so far 😏

[@martinbreuer2442]

Hi Sandy I'm Marty & I'm a retired saw filer. i've never worked on or with this small of a band mill, i was taught the GRINDING prosess by a number of different people & almost all agreed the freshly shaped & dressed grinding wheel should move DOWN the FACE to the bottom of the GULLET & up over the back of the TOOTH.touching all parts as close to equally as possible Grinding to hard or to fast never showed me anything but problems witch i already had plunty of. Grinding is very important. God Bless & happy filling.

[@bwillan]

If you saw mill regularly, it doesn't take many blade changes before the sharpener pays for itself. Eventually new blades will have to be ordered once there isn't enough material on the tooth and gullet to sharpen properly. Good video and very well explained on the operation of the blade sharpener.

[@sawingwithsandy]

That makes sense about when to replace the blades with new ones. Hope all is well with you

[@jasonc514]

Thank you for the video's. Thank you for taking the time to put out the info and taking everyone on a very addictive journey. I was intrigued that you said you should never take the back of the tooth off. Maybe try it on one of your blades as a test and let us know if you find a difference in the way it cuts. Taking a small grind off the back of the tooth can ensure that all of the teeth are at the exact same cutting height and will give a more uniform cut. The shape and grind of the stone is everything. The more you take off of the right side of the stone, the deeper in the gullet you can grind without touching the back of the tooth. These words of wisdom were passed on to me from a 5th gen saw filer that I had the pleasure of learning from. Hope this is helpful and keep up the great videos.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks for the message Jason and I appreciate your nice words about my channel. I normally don’t grind the back of the tooth just because I’ve only ground some of my most recent blades Once so I haven’t taken off enough material to hit the back of the tooth. I think I’ll likely take more of that off on future passes. That’s great detail you provided about reasons to get by he profile right and I’ll be sure to give it a try next few blades. Take care and thanks for watching.

[@woodlandns689]

My father in law has been sharpening blades for a while. He has a Woodmizer sharpener and also makes a light touch on the back of the blade. His grinding wheel seemed to be thicker, which may make it easier to touch the back.

[@rodmagee7895]

I have been using this grinder for about 3 years. I tried using the smaller 12 volt battery, but changed to a larger car battery. I found that the small battery didn't fully power the motors and caused drag once the wheel hit the tooth. I don't have power at my mill site so I run my truck with jumper cables to the battery to keep the battery charged full. Much better grinder performance with the larger battery. Also, keeping up the profile on the grinding wheel is very important. Fresh profile per blade works for me.

[@David-fv7zg]

I think this is a great idea. You had a video a while ago with a spreadsheet going over the cost benefit of these sharpeners, but I had a little different take on it. $23 for a blade and throw it away. Buy a sharpener and it pays for itself with 20 or so new blades($450) or so. Each time you sharpen you cut the price of that blade in half. First sharpening means you paid $12 for the blade, sharpen it again that blade is even less...... If you get 4 or 5 Sharpening’s that blade gets cheaper and cheaper.

[@sawingwithsandy]

That is a good way of putting it

[@FMcanada]

That's the way i figure it too. If you sharpen a new $25 blade 5x, that means you've used it 6x, which means the blade really only cost you $4.19 [+ initial cost of sharpening equipment + your time]. The initial cost of sharpening equipment pays for itself by the time you've sharpened your first 10 pack of blades [or else alternatively you would have bought 50 more blades @$25 per = $1250].

[@gotrocksinhead]

We sure appreciate you sharing this info. I'm looking to get a Woodland mill next year once I am able to put some roads in through my forest to reach the timber. You've got some very helpful information! Thank you. That sharpener looks like it works pretty slick! Nice setup.I'm getting a lot of good ideas from your videos.

[@OregonOldTimer]

I've sharpened a few blades with a Dremel and 5/32 chainsaw sharpening bits, but with only 30 hours on the mill, I can see the need for a sharpener and tooth setter in spite of the high prices.

[@johnhudson5420]

Sandy, I have the same sharpener. you can remove the white paper on the plastic plate in front of the grinding wheel so you can look directly at the wheel when adjusting. I had to look close to realize it was a protective cover paper .

[@sawingwithsandy]

You’re right John. Took me a little while to realize this . Felt pretty silly after that haha

[@thomashipps8418]

Enjoyed the video , got mine today via Fed ex .hope to sharpen some tomorrow ,

[@outbackrider6438]

Thanks for the video, great information. I have been looking at this unit for some time. Your video helped me to decide, so I ordered one. Looking forward to using it, just a hobby mill here, but I have plans to mill for several sheds, etc. Just one note, when I saw the gas and fuel cans, off to the left, I shuddered a bit, you may want to consider moving those outside, not trying to be safety patrol. Stay well.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I appreciate the input and agree completely. Putting the gas cans too close was not a good idea on my part. Thanks for watching

[@michaelevans8267]

Very good information thank you

[@galanjones8123]

I have one and I like it is very good for the job.🤙😍

[@melebmotors]

i have the same unit . i found the guide for the stone doesnt necessarily match the tooth profile you may need to adjust to get the full profile. i also had to drill anothe hole in the piece that the arm (shaft) rides up and down on to be able to adjust it far enough to follow the full contour of the blade and now it follows the full profile . if there is a tooth missing from a blade chuck it

[@sawingwithsandy]

Sounds like you've got some of your blade sharpening details dialled in. I just run the blades typically twice around to ensure the grinding stone matches the full profile. I also have had success running blades after sharpening even with a broken tooth or two as long as I manually skip those teeth on the sharpener. Happy sawing!

[@melebmotors]

@@sawingwithsandy i also put a self tapping screw in the arm that holds the unit where you set the degrees i found that it moved with the system they have .set it where you want it hten put in a screw and mark it then if you change to a different angle you can go right back to the exact spot where the old hole is.might help good luck with the mill. i just got 70 cords delivered one more load coming tomorrow

[@SuperHurdman]

On you little tool to turn off the machine when it gets to the end of the sharpen I put a little piece of duct tape on mine so as not to hurt the switches great idea! also where did you get the bearings I didn't get any with mine?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Good idea with the duct tape. Mine came with the bearings when I ordered it.

[@JasonDunnHogHunting]

The long rod with the acorn nut is it supposed to be loose

[@gerrybabin5191]

Sandy I’m thinking about purchasing the sharpeners. I asked some questions on the site and I’m getting lots of mixed reactions.. some people are saying it takes 40 minutes and you have to watch it. I don’t know when your videos I seen. It just said it in gold 20 minutes. I need like to get your opinion on that.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I don't have the exact time it takes off hand but I would say each time around probably is about 20 minutes give or take. I don't find it too hard to use. Just a bit of a learning curve. I find the convenience of being able to sharpen my blades are handy as long as you have the time to devote to it.

[@gerrybabin5191]

I agree it's a retirement hobby I was planning on getting one and I'm not too far from u im 60 mills from north bay ont. And I would have to send them out to get sharpened 15 $ each and shipping just doesn't make sense to me. I got 20 blades to start with. And just broke my mill in so ya. I'll be ordering one next month thank you

[@randyoregon3429]

I love my woodland mills saw!! Have 2 have sharpener

[@sawingwithsandy]

Yeah I’m with ya there

[@mr.prinstergradyr1402]

When you were doing the second pass adjustment for the gullet I didn't notice if you locked the adjustment knob below the top knob that was loose. Seems that vibration could move that height adjustment over the course of the blade. Best regards!

[@sawingwithsandy]

You’re absolutely right. I forgot to lock the nut. I think I got away with it this time but otherwise I could’ve had an issue over time. Thanks for pointing that one out

[@stan7764ify]

I will buy one Friday.

[@travdad76]

Nice DWLink hanging in the corner. Is that an ironhorse? Yeah yeah good stuff about the sharpener.... we make wood to build so we can live so we can ride!

[@sawingwithsandy]

That’s my Giant

[@ShootingOrion]

Very helpful! I have one of these, but the bearings that allow the blade to move is kind of rusted, and sometimes I have to manually give the advancer some slack, is there a problem with that? By the way if you know a website that I could print instructions for this that would be great! Thanks

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hey Red! I think there may be a Manila on the woodland mills website that may give a bit more detail but I’d try to scrape off the rust and oil it a bit to keep things moving smoothly if possible

[@pstoneking3418]

There should be a locking nut on the knob that adjusts the grinder height so the knob can't come loose.

[@lr22same47]

Thanks Sandy. Just leveled my mill deck, took quite a bit of time, chasing level, side to side and end to end, basic rail plus 2 extensions. How did your leveling go? Did or do you, have to adjust often? And sharpener is still in the box. Tomorrow, assembling the mill head!

[@garyjones4216]

Your small shield still has the protective film on it still... I do believe

[@sawingwithsandy]

Haha absolutely right .

[@bigwolf8135]

hey sandy on the sharpener the acorn nut plate to keep the grinder in the gullet longer is it all the way OUT or all the way IN

[@rafaelramos9403]

Buenas noches Disculpe como puedo conseguir esta maquina

[@deanbell1834]

Hey Sandy I think your profile of your stone is backwards I believe your straight edge should be on the right that may give you a clean gulit cut

[@jasonc514]

It seems like being rounded on the left would fit the bottom of the profile better but that would make it difficult for the back of the tooth grind. Profile for the left side should be as straight as possible. As it comes down it takes the face off and should never be changed. The shape of the right side of the stone will determine how low you can come down in the gullet while taking a little off the back as it comes out.

[@claytonnicholson4639]

Hey Sandy, another great video...could you clear up a little confusion for me? Could you define something for me, what EXACTLY is a "money shot"? I'm dying to hear your answer! lol

[@sawingwithsandy]

Haha (no comment)

[@mdgreer6640]

Hi Sandy. I have the same sawmill you do. Where do you buy your Lenox blades from? Thanks and stay safe. MD

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hey MD, I get my blades from Woodland Mills

[@bigwolfie8980]

Hey sandy can you change the 10 pitch to a 7 pitch on a blade that was a 10 pitch or do you have to keep it the same as you buy?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Making the blade into 7 pitch would require a bit of material to be ground off the blade with likely several passes with the sharpener but I don’t see why you couldn’t make a 7 degree blade from a 10. I think it would be ideal to buy a blade with 7 degree pitch from new if possible however to avoid having to grind the tooth as much. Impersonally haven’t done the switch from 10 to 7 though

[@morganmosher3479]

Did you ever look into the range road sharpener?

[@sawingwithsandy]

I hadn’t seen it until now. Looks like a good option worth looking at for sure

[@David-fv7zg]

9:05 I noticed that it was cutting a little different after about 10 teeth or so. It lost zero after a dozen or so teeth? Were all the teeth sharpened evenly?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Reason it appeared off slightly was because some of the teeth on that blade were missing so the pusher arm part of the sharpener moved the broken tooth at slightly different increments. Only happens when I try resharpening blade with broke teeth

[@michaelbradley8508]

Great video... Very slick machine... Do you actually need to sharpen the gullet - the cutting is done by the tooth? What would happen if you didn't sharped the gullet? Michael from Alberta

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hey Michael thanks for watching. From what I’ve heard, small fractures begin to develop in the gullet and so by giving them a little touch with the grinding wheel it reduces the chance of the blade breaking

[@cancelchannel3394]

What about tooth setting ? 🤔

[@stephenpeters5903]

Curious why you couldnt go deeper with first pass. Also, bought a Champion Sawmill last year, sharpener is a bit pricey. I assume a sharpener from any supplier would do the trick. Thanks

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hey Stephen, thanks for watching. I prefer to do two lighter passes than one heavier pass just to make sure I’m not stressing my small sharpener motor. I could probably go a bit deeper with some passes but I mostly keep it light

[@sawingwithsandy]

Another reason is I’ve found that if I go too heavy with the sharpener then the small inline fuses blow

[@competitivespeed2]

You can remove the white plastic film from the grinding guard that way you can see through it.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Thanks forgot to do that

[@davidwhalen2924]

Gee Sandy, I would pay BIG MONEY to see you ride that tiny bike of yours which you have hanging on the wall of your shop! Better pump up those tires before ya give it a spin!!

[@ccodymac28]

Hey, great video. Have you had any problems with blowing fuses? I keep blowing the 15amp fuse. Woodland just sent me a new motor because I went through multiple fuses. I sharpened 2 blades and blew the 15amo fuse out of nowhere. Just wondering if you've had any issues.

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi Cody, I’ve blown two fuses early on with the sharpener but haven’t had any issues since that time with it

[@HippocratesGarden]

non-electrician but first question, what power source were / are you using, have you measured the voltage, especially while using the sharpener. If the voltage drops much, the amps go up and fuses blow based on amps. Just a thought.

[@johnhenley862]

Sandy. Where did you get the grind wheel profile tool for your sharpener? I looked on the woodland mills website but didn't see it. Keep the great vids coming

[@sawingwithsandy]

Hi John, my grinder came with that profile wheel when I bought it

[@johnhenley862]

@@sawingwithsandy ok thanks sandy

[@ricklarade3593]

thank you very very much...lol, i have the 126,

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great to hear Rick. Good machines those 126

[@brianwestveer9532]

Good video,will that blade cut good even though it has couple teeth missing

[@sawingwithsandy]

That’s a good question. I’ll be trying it out this weekend

[@KaizenSteelDrums]

It's called the blade index arm

[@Wedget]

Hi Sandy, awesome videos mate, just curious as why you don't want the back of the tooth ground ie why not grind the full tooth profile?

[@sawingwithsandy]

Great question. I try just to touch the back of the tooth without grinding it down to keep the height of the tooth and just take enough of the back of the tooth to prevent stress cracks from forming

[@randiegadberry5448]

The white shield is actually a film on it. Remove it and then you can see the wheel better.

[@heyyoubuddy6749]

Hey buddy how are ya? I was wondering if ya set the depth so that the wheel cleans out the gullet after it sharpens the tooth in one pass? I haven’t played with it yet I guess I’ll find out when mine arrives. As always thank you so much for taking the time to help the rest of us out. I really enjoy your channel very much!

[@michaelhamlin4585]

From what I saw on the Woodland review; I agree, the wheel depth could be lowered a little more for it to clean out the gullet without the 2nd pass. It's all a learning curve.

[@inhthienbk212]

Mấy mài này gửi sang Việt nam đi a ơi

[@wilmamcdermott3065]

Better to go 2 times around less heat build up

[@sawingwithsandy]

Good tip Wilma

[@wilmamcdermott3065]

Dennis i use my wifes tablet for youtube

[@cancelchannel3394]

How much is $849 Canadian dollars, in U.S. dollars ? I don't know what the current conversion is "/

[@peropopara]

When you finished destroying blade,go to shopand buy brend new blade.Whit this is impossible sawing enithing hardening then chees.Use protractor and you will see diferent before and after "sharpening".Grind wheel angle and hook angle must be identicly.Yor grind wheel is put on ten degree,hook angle is zero degree.Why?Becouse you trying remove too much material for too short time.Grinding only gulet and back side of tooth and nothig else.Removing max.0,1mm materials.For more,must have kooler to saving original hardenig tooth.

[@sawingwithsandy]

I’ve had good luck sharpening like this. Blades have ended up cutting quite well. I’d imagine different techniques for different folks

[@pearsc5d]

You haven't got it adjusted right . That's why you aren't getting the gullet. The only thing that sharpener doesn't seem to be able to do is the backside of the tooth. Some sharpeners do ,some don't. I have the same sharpener and have played with it for hours to get it to do what I want . It's a learning curve, once you get it it's a good machine

[@sawingwithsandy]

I'm still fine-tuning my skills with the sharpener and as you said, I didn't quite get the back of the tooth in the video but that is something I"m working on. Thanks for tuning in!