How to Setup, Use and Sharpen a Plough Plane | Paul Sellers

Need to run some grooves and not sure where to start? Paul shows how to sharpen and prepare the plough plane for use, before showing the basics of how to cut a groove.
For a beginner friendly guide on how to use a plough plane, see our sister site: commonwoodworking.com/using-a... to see how to sharpen one, visit: commonwoodworking.com/sharpen...
For more information on these topics, see paulsellers.com or woodworkingmasterclasses.com

[@AntonioGiungato]

Every time I watch one of your videos I think of my grandfather. He was a woodworker all his life, I have some stools he made when he was more than 90 years old! Watching him working is one of my happiest childhood memories. He was always so humble about his work, only now I realize he was a true master. Thanks for all your videos Paul!

[@robdrownyt]

It is very cool the read about you honoring your grandfather. Very very cool.

[@danielgeng2306]

I open Paul’s videos and automatically hit the like button before watching the video, I’ve never been disappointed !

[@gundoguk]

Once again the master explains it in such simple terms that it looks as easy as it should be. Thanks Paul

[@phillipyeager3176]

I'm late finding this, but want to comment. You are one of the very best instructors for woodworking. You don't overwhelm a beginner, and even an experienced old fart like myself can learn alot if we aren't too arrogant to pay attention. We all can learn from each other. Be well, and keep up the good work. Regards from MN.

[@archer9338]

After watching this, I feel like I could pick one up and be able to prepare it, maintain it, and use it correctly. Though, I have never even seen one in person before. That is a great feeling to have and proof of how valuable these videos are. Thank you.

[@lbhunter6341]

Another sage bit of video from our friend, Paul! Well done as usual!

[@rickdafler2515]

Very timely and helpful. THANKS to all involved. 🙏

[@AICTTRADER1914]

Thank you, Paul, love your channel so much, really grateful for the time you put in the amount I learn from watching you is amazing.

[@markarmstrong2592]

Everything well explained as usual thanks Paul

[@watermain48]

As always, a useful lesson. Thanks Paul.

[@nightcatarts]

Thank you, that was extremely informative.

[@ikust007]

As usual. So well explained. Pure joy, must go to shavings now!

[@rogerprice4504]

Fantastic demo and I am now confident to clean up and sharpen the plane I just bought in auction. Using it looks like a new experience too. Thanks

[@rogerprice4504]

Thanks. I picked up a plough plane at a boot sale but never really knew how to use it properly. This is very helpful.

[@johnspencer1145]

Great video I could listen to you all day ! Thank you

[@H_Oscarsson]

Cheers Paul! Best woodworking videos on KZbin!

[@2tall54]

Thank you for this explanation and demonstration...can't wait for my Record 044 to get here to try out.

[@edwardlees2992]

Hi Paul bought one of these a few weeks ago and have used it but found it very hard work because I was doing it how you demonstrated it shouldn’t be used. Will give it a try the way you demonstrated it should be used,.very good instructional video thank you.

[@HWCism]

Thank you. I just bought an old Stanley 45 plain. This demo helps.

[@rolandzurillo7758]

Great teacher

[@johngratton467]

My Dad has just given me a Stanley 13-030 3 Blade Plough Plane (still in the box with spare blades and instructions, looks like brand new) as I come from the 'power tool generation' I've never used anything like this, only recently got interested in hand planes, but there's something very satisfying about using them (rather than having a screaming electric motor, in your ear) I found this a fascinating little plane and I'm looking forward to using it, your concise and clear 'how to' should make the learning curve a little less steep, thank you.

[@jimcarter4929]

He wrote a blog about the newer series of Stanley plough planes that was very informative. He gave them positive reviews. Should be able to find in general web search.

[@cassia_cries]

wonderful.. I might finally get mine working - well, get me working anyway!

[@joekeating8530]

"Offer it to the wood"..these videos are beautiful

[@Austeration]

Very well explained 👍 thanks for sharing

[@mobileandhostile7895]

⭐️ very helpful and very well presented - thankyou for sharing your knowledge ⭐️ 👍

[@imager8763]

Thank you!

[@dmytrii297]

Yesterday I bought this tool for £ 13 and only one knife. Very happy to purchase, I will receive it in the mail soon. I will work on it

[@Sarrienne]

I always enjoy it when Paul gets groovy! I'd love to see a similar video on more advanced techniques, maybe including Combination Planes with their curved beading blades, and the various setups involved. Perhaps common problems and how to resolve them?

[@maineiachomestead7550]

I'll second your motion for a Combo Plane video. I have a nice old Stanley 45 (ca 1902 ish) that I can't wait to use.

[@LaoZi2023]

@@maineiachomestead7550 , I'm thinking about buying a combo plane and am curious what would be better, a combo plane about the age of yours, or buying specific planes for different jobs...

[@MintStiles]

Don't get a combination plane unless you need it. You'd be doing lots of fiddling. It's also a much heavier device. There are very few instances a plough plane cannot do what a combo plane can.

[@Sarrienne]

@@MintStiles A combination plane comes with various blades, which mean I can do T&G work as well as a few different mouldings, and not need to shell out loads of cash on a massive set of moulding planes... and as for being heavier - my Record 050C Combo is 2½ lbs, while my Record 044 Plough is 2¾ lbs.

[@MintStiles]

@@Sarrienne ...mouldings being one of them. Most of us don't cut mouldings or put beadings. I'd probably buy a router bit for that. Not into sharpening plane blades with inside and outside round profiles. I am end-product oriented, so for me it's about grooves and dados and how I can do them faster and far less messy than a table saw or a router. I dont own any Stanley products, but the pictures show the likes of 55 being quite massive. I do own all the versions in Veritas format. I understand that they are similar. The L/R handed ploughs always get used more than the combination. I think I've used my combination plane like 4 times or something.

[@bentyreman5769]

I was having problems with mine but now realise I had the blade petruding too far out, so much better now, I picked up a no44 with no blades for just £6 then bought a set of blades, really great tool.

[@marcsudding]

Thank you Paul

[@josevelez7539]

Amazing!

[@gingetaylor4489]

By gum this is timing, I bought a Record 405 plough plane two weeks ago. I have to make one blade for the set. I've been searching for a video on this tool. Cheers

[@MorRobots]

Paul, I use power and old-school tools and I must say, the No. 45 was one of the best buys I ever made. Ebay, good condition with the extra cutters and all the parts. It only cost me about 100ish dollars (maybe 150, cant remember) It was a total deal. I find it better than my router for oh so-many tasks. I still use my routers but It's an equal debate between them and to be honest, the no. 45 wins a lot of those debates.

[@jangiesen8571]

Top explenation !!!

[@DesignEcologies]

Thank you

[@jim-zb2kb]

I got a no50 record with all the blades for £30 from a flea market, its awsome!

[@ramonching7772]

A lot of people are aghast with these tools. And they they would immediately dismiss them as crap. But its not so in the hands of the expert. Good this channel was offered.

[@c0nnys1]

I love your videos Paul, I just wish the close ups were a bit closer

[@calumblair]

Another great session , I am trying to use hand planes more but I find it difficult to get edges square

[@robdrownyt]

Practice practice, sharpen then practice. Much of it is strengthening certain muscles and muscle memory and sharpening. Oh almost any planing problem can be improved by sharper blades.

[@csteimel]

Very nice presentation. I like the adjustment features on that plane. My Stanley Model 50s don't have those features. Is that a new production plane?

[@MrGdangles1]

I'm very new to wood working but I was fortunate enough to come across a Sargent combination plane with a bunch of blades. How would you go about sharpening the curved or 'U' shaped blades or blades with a curve in general? Thank you for your numerous videos, they've an amazing resource for learning techniques

[@jimcarter4929]

Appropriate sized dowel wrapped in wt dry paper.

[@kettyparenzan373]

Hallo, is it possible to have a video using the plough plane with the tonguing and grooving for two boards?

[@derf9465]

Just used my 44 on a bed frame with a 3/8 cutter. Hot knife through butter

[@Gwynbuck]

I found the honing guide that you use, very fiddley and hard to adjust. The Veritas honing guide which is designed to sharpen narrow chisels - from 3 mm and upwards, is much easier. You attach a depth stop set to the correct angle, slide the blade into position, then turn a knurled nut. This causes two jaws to tighten up onto the blade. You then remove the depth stop and you're good to go.

[@dobbiemark]

And so much quieter than an electric router!

[@AJ-iu6nw]

Hey Paul, Is there any difference between using the Plough plane and a Hand Router plane in terms of the final groove? I have one of those fences that attaches to the Veritas Router and I haven't tested it yet. Thanks!

[@ronaldkearn6368]

Wow, how the old timers made ship lap and tongue and groove. :-)

[@pfswalter]

Paul have you even done a video on the old or vintage plough plane

[@dannyrichard6349]

Paul, I have a craftsman #45, any suggestions on where to find blades? Thanks

[@FearsomeWarrior]

Wish you'd show dados with plow. I'm unsure how to setup accurately. Using guides and running plane along it. Could be done with chisels and router plane but plow could move through repetitive dados faster?

[@PaavoLammikko]

I don't think a plough plane is the right tool for dados. Correct me if I'm wrong.

[@FearsomeWarrior]

PaavoLammikko It is. After I posted that comment I watched a few videos on it. I don't think it's for anything but plowing different kinds of grooves. My question is guide setup to make dados in the middle of boards.

[@mmaffitt]

Paul, how long does a set of the diamond stones typically last you?

[@athmostafa2462]

I bought a vintage one and was looking in what angle will I sharpe the blades ? now I know 30 degree 👌 thanks mr paul .

[@deemdoubleu]

I think they are 35 degs out of the box and that is the angle Record recommend

[@androidgameplays4every13]

Is it possible to use this plane to make rebates/rabbets?

[@m.a.6781]

We're can you buy new bladeblades in the USA or what does I refer too ????

[@rossmorrow3013]

I’ve got a Stanley No.50 with the complete number of blades. But I can’t work out how to get it to hold the small blade, 1/8” to be held by the clamping unit, everything else is fine. Thank you for your great videos. Yours truly ross

[@HWoodCreations]

I know this is an older video, but I just purchased a 44. Does it make a difference if the depth stop (shoe) is pointed forwards compared to backwards?

[@darrenhopkins6987]

I've just gotten my hands on a no43. As you said it doesn't have the fine adjustable screw. But I only have one blade for it. Where can I get additional blades. I've tried ebay. Maybe I'm looking for the wrong parts.

[@RamChickPig]

Hey Paul. Do you always use a honing guide to sharpen the plough plane's blade or just the initial sharpening to established the 30 degrees bevel angle then free hand sharpening the blades afterward? Thanks.

[@phantomcreamer]

What do the plough plane iron numbers mean? They seem to be a completely different system than what you see on modern planes. Is there a resource that lists what each number is?

[@AlexEllis]

Does anyone have suggestions for my Record 044 that came from eBay without a depth stop? Could you also use the plough plane to cut the tongue for T&G by working from either side?

[@ugaladh]

yes you can

[@mergrew0110]

Quite useful, would have been great if you mentioned bevel up or down, my plane could take the blade either way! By running the clip back a couple of times, I think you put it down.

[@cptvanier]

yea, same as a smoothing plane

[@jrkorman]

Note (at about 7:50) that the blade on his plane has to be installed in only one direction due to the notches on the back side!

[@mergrew0110]

Jim Korman. Totally right. But my one is flat both sides of the blades and has no micro adjuster. It was obtained second hand and there were no instructions. I had guessed it was bevel down because it would have dug in too much bevel up, and I did get it to work. I had thought that if he bothered to make a video about this tool he would have covered all the bases. The point was, I think, the method of starting at the far end and not the near end, and that all now makes sense!

[@coreyacre6070]

How wide of a board can you use the plough plane on?

[@LessTalkMoreDelicious]

Can this cut rabbets too?

[@deemdoubleu]

I find this plane (the Record 044) difficult to use with the wider blades e.g. 1/2". The unsupported edge of the blade (on the LHS) has a tendency to grab the wood. It's a bit like trying to take a fine shaving with a bevel down chisel free hand. I shouldn't blame the tool but I wonder if a dual skate plane would be better?

[@paulcleary8829]

Hi, I find that the Record 044 is too difficult to use with blades wider than 3/8" for the reasons you have identified above and because the plane body is not heavy enough to build up forward momentum. I switch to a heavier Stanley 45 for blades wider than 3/8" or I use a rebate plane.

[@EditRoom2012]

Hi Paul one question: how do you go about cutting a groove with a plough plane when the groove does not start or go right up to the end of the wood? I love the plough plane and use it all the time so this was really informative.

[@jamesgarner4968]

You’re limited by the body of the plough projecting beyond the blade, i.e. it’s not a ‘bullnose’ design, and as such can’t work directly to a stop. That said, it’s possible; if you produce a shallow elongated mortise at the end of the desired groove (the same width and depth as required), this aperture effectively accommodates the forward projection of the plough in operation, when working back from your mortise… I’d put a small block of wood at the extremity of the mortise to prevent over-shooting and damaging the end of your stop.

[@EditRoom2012]

@@jamesgarner4968 Thanks James. This is how I do it at the moment. Wondered if it was the only way and the easiest.

[@jamesgarner4968]

I know it’s blasphemy to suggest this on Paul’s channel, but here goes… stopped work is probably easier to execute with an electric router. I don’t know the context of your stopped grooves; but general practice is to alter design (where feasible) to minimise there use i.e. drawer fronts with lapped dovetails prevent the need for stops, as the grooves (for the drawer base) terminate inside the joints. The backs of cabinets even when through dovetailed usually incorporate a small mitred portion at the rear to accommodate a rebate or groove for the back panel, the same principle also applies with sliding doors on cabinets.

[@EditRoom2012]

@@jamesgarner4968 Thanks James. Two situations where I need a stooped groove as examples are: The back of dovetailed draws where the grooves that fit the base peer out the back and when incorporate sliding panels with mortise and tennon joinery. I agree that it is easier with an electric router but wonder how this was done when the router was not around.

[@newmanm144]

A stopped groove can be achieved by starting with chisel and finishing with a router plane. That would be the quickest way without an electric router that I can think of.

[@gilgamst9478]

I have a Stanley plane 45 with the cracked handle,what’s the best way to remove it from the plane?

[@29ginad]

.

[@adcr7829]

hello i recently bought a 1980s vintage stanley plough and in a booklet inside it said sharpen to 35 degrees, is that too steep an angle as yours is at 30 degrees? ive already sharpened at 35 so hoping its okay. thanks i always enjoy your videos

[@jennytalbert5547]

5° difference won't hurt at all and go to 30° next time you sharpen it. You may find out that you liked it a little sharper at 35°.

[@adcr7829]

thanks jenny, i have 10 different sized blades so hoping 35 degrees is good enough. i hate sharpening so definitely got my fingers crossed on that. Another person gave a comment although it seems to have been deleted now that you can go up to 45 degrees, id like to thank him for his advice too. Thanks again.

[@alanmeule2512]

Dear Mr Sellers. Thanks for this video and everything you do. I encounter some troubles with my Stanley #50 plough plane while cutting tongues. I already solved all parallel and perpendicular issues from the blade regarded to skates and the fence. In fact the plane blocks on wood from the very first shaving and makes me increasing the force applied. As force increases the fence looses contact with my reference surface and plane goes across the tongue and causes damages. Cutter seems to be sharp enough and the cutting edge is square with the body of the blade. I tried, in vain, to reshape the cutter's inner U shape since the raising tongue seems to grip inside the cutter. Please, notice that I have no such issue with groove cutters. Is it a matter of relief or something else ? I have read your book and watched plenty of videos and found no answers. Thanks again for your help and the love of traditional woodworking you gave me. Alan from France.

[@rredd7777]

I'm just getting started. Sharpening is very frustrating; sometimes it feels like black magic! I just noticed something last night while trying to sharpen an old, cheap jack plane blade, using a honing guide and anew water stone. After little success, I checked the flatness of my stone. It dipped in the middle. Now I'm wondering if I was pushing too hard downward on the guide, abrading the stone with the guide's wheel.

[@FearsomeWarrior]

Just have to keep using your flattening stone whenever you think you used it enough to wear it in.

[@endemiller5463]

I use a piece of glass and wet the back of different wetanddry sandpapers. I use Pauls windex trick too.

[@jonno8183]

Personally I would ditch the waterstones - they wear too quickly, are messy and expensive over time - and get a couple of decent double sided diamond plates - with different 'grits' on both sides eg 300/1000 or 400/1200 - they last for years and need very little maintenance, also and make and use strop as Paul has previously demonstrated in a video. John B

[@cptvanier]

The other comments here are very good. Also, its all about the burr. Watch paul's vids about sharpening and make sure you have a burr all the way across. No burr = not sharp. Trust this.

[@SlaveToMyStomach]

I agree, get the diamond plates, I did. I started out using wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of plate glass. While it worked okay it's not efficient use of the sandpaper. The SP tends to tear when wet and has to be long enough to allow some for taping down to the glass. The diamond plates can be pricey but, as you say, they last a long time, need little maintenance and stay flat. I bought a spray bottle of generic glass cleaner at the Dollar store, it'll last me a long time.

[@Zigge]

You once made a 'poor mans shoulder plane'. Is it possible to make a 'poor mans plough plane' as well?

[@keithsomerville5387]

What honing guide is that?

[@athmostafa2462]

It's normal honing guide with a small groove in the body allowing u to hold small blades and chisels , I have a veritas version to hold small items for sharpening .😊

[@magnustveten492]

What are the holes on the fence for ? You can see the at 5:55

[@hughtattersall5594]

You can add a piece of wood to extend the fence.

[@jamesgarner4968]

I find they perform better with wooden auxiliarily fences fitted; less friction being wood on wood, and a deeper fence reduces the tendency for the plough to rock on narrow work pieces.

[@magnustveten492]

James Garner ahh of course seems so obvious now that you guys pointed it out lol will try that next time I use it :) thanks

[@malcolmbaptie5156]

Just in time for an imminent ebay arrival!

[@rossmorrow3013]

Dear Sirs, I was just wondering the sizes of yours diamond sharpening stones; to me they look possibly 10x4 - ish....? Yours truly ross

[@richardsinger01]

Ross Morrow 8 x 3 Ezelap I think.

[@peterthewoodworker6655]

Where do I get this plane?

[@johnporter8896]

You may be able to help me here. I have an old stanley plough plane and a pack of blades where some of the blades seem to be too small for the housing in the plane. It may be an obvious answer, is there a special trick to using small blades, or is it that they simply are too small for my plane? I just can't seem to get them to fit without falling out, and I think they may not be for this plane. You will surely know better than me and I thought it worth asking.

[@007marlonb]

Hi John, I've got the same problem with my Stanley no 50. I wondered if you ever found out the answer?

[@johnporter8896]

Mark Leatherland sadly not. They just sit in the box unused.

[@jimcarter4929]

Under 1/4 inch remove one skate.

[@johnporter8896]

@@jimcarter4929 Do you kow, until you said this it never occured to me that the screw would hold the cutter without the detachable skate. Wow, thank you sir!

[@garyschmidt7320]

Does that model plane have the little flower shaped nickers? Or are those only on Stanleys? I presume they are primarily for cross grain work.

[@smfield]

Cool daddy O’

[@alvindueck8227]

Isn't that also called a rabbit plane or rebate plane??

[@rogermiller2159]

your plane looks like you just took it out of the box

[@mikemccollum4521]

Thank you