The Fillister Plane | Paul Sellers

In this video Paul gives you a detailed look at the fillister plane’s mechanics and efficiency when rebating.
Paul has been using the fillister plane for over 50 years because of its versatility, compactness and reliable neatness. The fillister plane is simply a rebate or rabbet plane and can be called such in the day-to-day of benchwork.
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[@billgiles3261]

Much quicker, and quieter, than all the trouble of setting up a noisy machine.

[@ADVJason]

I have this plane. It is a new one. I found a few issues with the casting on mine. Not hard to fix but something I think should have been a QC catch. But I know they aren't putting any more had time into them than they can due to cost. I agree with another comment I read that the bull nose part would be interesting to see a demonstration on.

[@MrMikeEdie]

Something I've found is to keep the plane as vertical as possible so there is no slope on the groove. (Speaking for experience ;-)) Very lovely tool.

[@raynierllewis2827]

So why can you not spur cutter when cutting along the grain

[@gbwildlifeuk8269]

Every time Paul demonstrates a tool theres a rush on Ebay 😁

[@612morrison]

And the price goes up and up lol. I always miss out on old router's probability thanks to Paul 🤔😁

[@luvspud1]

I know, he's like the Delia Smith of woodworking.

[@Brangustx]

Mine has been on the shelf for years because I didn't know how to use it. I'll be getting it out today to play. Thanks Paul.

[@j.d.1488]

So true.

[@JarlSeamus]

Paul, I've been watching your channel for a bit over a year, and I'v probably seen every video you've produced at least once. I have to say, your wonderful instruction style, obvious love for the topic, and tremendous skill has been both an inspiration, and you've improved my own woodworking skill by miles! I'm at a stage where I prefer a hand tool in many cases where I would have used electric before, and the quality of my projects is far better. Thanks you, sir, for helping me be a better woodworker, and relighting my love for the craft.

[@WoodByWright]

One of my favorite planes! thanks again for the wealth of information!

[@thomasarussellsr]

Hey, James.

[@mm9773]

Nice one - I just bought a 78 a few weeks ago. I understand that Paul makes money on KZbin, but I still think it’s incredibly generous to share his wisdom with us this way. Thank you very much, Paul and team.

[@paulsellers7953]

Just so you know, our costs of creating quality videos exceed what income comes from it.

[@mm9773]

@@paulsellers7953 Interesting to know, thanks. And based on what I’ve read about monetisation on KZbin, I can absolutely believe it as well. All the more admirable: thank you for enlightening and delighting us.

[@onlywiseman]

4:20 Mr Seller does not need a ruler. If he says a half inch then it is indeed 1/2".

[@mannmanuel7762]

It's all about the experience

[@man_v_snacks4299]

Would love to see a demo on using the blade in the front slot (bull-nose?) cheers

[@maxmeranda]

This.

[@gazpal]

Great idea and well worth getting to know. In essence, the cutting iron is set as you would for the rear setting, but lacks the adjustment arm. This leaves the need to set the cutting iron to approximately the required depth, refining lightly tapping the heel of the iron if advancing it and by lightly tapping the heel of the plane - using a small leather faced/rubber headed mallet - to reduce the cut. NEVER strike the nose of the plane, as - although made from ductile cast iron - it will either distort the nose or snap it off.

[@athmostafa2462]

Little confused here , so the blade should be flush with the plane when I take a shave or not being out a little bit from the plane ?? help pls 🙄

[@gazpal]

@@athmostafa2462 advance the edge of the iron until it removes the desired shaving

[@athmostafa2462]

@@gazpal NO , no I meant the edge side of the blade 🤔 not the front ?

[@RickRose]

Had one for years and figured out most of it, but of course learned some finer points here. I thought the scribe cutter had the blank side simply for storage; I didn't realize you only used the scribe for cross-grain planing. Also, I didn't realize you're supposed to start on the forward part of the rebate. Thanks for sharing.

[@bryzabone]

You’ve taught me 80% of my woodworking skills,I thank you paul 👍🏻

[@androidgameplays4every13]

90% of mine, and I thank him as well.

[@maciejtrybilo]

It may be a little odd one out, but it would be awesome to have a detailed video about the Stanley 13-050 Combination Plane. Especially the beading fence is confusing.

[@phbrinsden]

Greetings Paul from a student of yours in 2002 in Texas. I use my #78 and I also like my #50.

[@jackwaycombe]

My late Dad left me his. For some reason I didn't use it much for years. So a revelation when I finally 'discovered' it years later, and found it could do many rebates with half the fuss it took to set up and use an electric router. I've been surprised once or twice by people who don't know what the wee spur cutter is for - or sometimes even that it's there at all.. And if you do get the mouth clogged - on any plane? Buy a cheap dental pick. Works every time.

[@phbrinsden]

Had a #78 for years, actually 2, one is modern, about 1940’s and one is about 1910. Both work beautifully. Also like my #50 as a quick handy rebater.

[@sj_harris]

That is sooooo weird! I have literally five minutes ago just fitted a replacement fence to an old 78 I picked two weeks ago. I thought, “I really should find out more info on this plane, I have no idea about it...”. Thanks Paul for hearing my psychic cry!

[@garethjames3826]

Love these planes Paul,as a professional woodworker very often reach for the no 78 ,great for small rebates and usually quicker and easier than a router or spindle moulder,always use mine for making 12mm x 1mm rebates for piano hinges,thanks again

[@ungarlinski7965]

What's the difference between this plane and the Stanley 90 bullnose plane? I mean why choose one over the other for making rebates for box bottoms?

[@robertmansell3667]

I bought one of these at a flea market all the parts were there and after sharpening and a setup I love it as Paul says not essential but it does what it’s intended for beautifully

[@bighands69]

They are essential if you use them to cut rebates or to cut tenons.

[@adamwilks]

Thanks for sharing Paul. Really useful and interesting. Your videos are always a joy to watch. All the best.

[@T3hJones]

The first plane I bought at a second hand shop which started my interest in handtool woodworking :).

[@AnchorDesigns]

Friday and a Paul Sellers Video! Perfect!

[@dariocarafa3788]

Why didn't you talk about the bullnose aspect

[@thijsberkman4576]

Is there a chance that you can make a tutorial about how to sharpen it?

[@js8039]

I struggled with this tool for so long. I thought it was junk and ill-designed. Then Paul showed me my plane irons were not and have never been "sharp." Now this plane takes front and center.

[@Sojourner-ql6du]

Thank you for teaching me so much, Paul. I am also a teacher and hope you realize how much we appreciate you sharing your expertise with us. I am restoring my first No. 78, at this time, and I am now much better prepared to use it when I complete the restoration.

[@matthewcaird7448]

I own one of these (the same as what's shown in the video) they are great planes I find it to be a great addition to my tool kit. Thanks for the great video Paul. Long time subscriber here!! 😁

[@TrevorDennis100]

I love your user name. 😄

[@matthewcaird7448]

@@TrevorDennis100 thanks Dennis

[@matthewcaird7448]

@@TrevorDennis100 I have a channel if you'd like to check it out. Just type my user name into the KZbin search bar

[@StarDustSid]

I Inherited one of these planes, but it was missing its spur cutter. I found replacements are rather difficult to get hold of.

[@MJ-nb1qn]

A good metal fabricator could make you one easy.

[@simongilchrist3329]

I found a couple for my #45 at an antique tool show. Your area may host one as well. Did you ever find one? Next time I'm there I'll pick up as many as I can.

[@StarDustSid]

@@simongilchrist3329 I never did find one, thanks for asking. I'm still on the lookout. You can get copies of this plane in the UK and I'm trying to get one of the manufacturers of them to supply a cutting Spur that will hopefully fit my old 78.

[@simongilchrist3329]

@@StarDustSid whenever the show opens again, and assuming I can get a couple, I'll ship you one. Sucks having a plane like this and not being able to use it.

[@louistodd4857]

How many irons are there for the 78?

[@brianpatmore8418]

Hi Paul, I know this was done a few years ago but I loved it as my dear old Dad left one to me (less a few pieces missing) and I intend to restore his old tools. His was made in Sweden, so, it may be metric. I don't know for sure. I will try Stanley to see if this is so. I want it to be a functioning tool for me to use as well as the nostalgia. My aim is to make a tool box to hold what is left of his tools and to use them. I have some of my own and am trying to get into hand woodworking but with a planer thicknesser, small Aldi bandsaw (at least at first) and an Aldi wood lathe to learn on. He was an amazing carpenter-joiner. He could do anything with anything, a natural craftsman but did not want us two boys to get our hands dirty. But that is exactly what boys wanted to do in our times. I am 74 myself, so you know what I mean. Many thanks for your help and inspirational videos. If I get a chance to visit the old dart, I would very much like to visit you. I am in Brisbane Australia and Dad and his family are from Launceston Tasmania. I know you would love the place and the beautiful wood in that part of the country. Cheerio my friend.

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Thank you Paul for the explanation of the filleter plane. I have a Sears Craftsman model and have used it only a few times when not using a router for my rebates because I was usually frustrated with how it functioned. Now you have shown me the proper way to set it up. As I move more towards hand tools in my work this plane will be getting more use.

[@jean-philippegaudreault3549]

I have that plane. It’s a gift from my neighbor. I didn’t know how to cut in end grain. Thank you for the video.

[@Rodneygd]

As always, a top notch video. Could you demonstrate sharpening the scoring blade.

[@androidgameplays4every13]

It looks intimidating and challenging!

[@wdtaut5650]

I second the motion. Please, Paul.

[@JustAnotherDayToday]

Finicky tool isnt’ it. It takes more time to adjust it than to use it.

[@ralphlivingston894]

It took me two videos to figure out that “rebates” are what they call rabbets in the UK.

[@achmadosman9807]

Rebate is the original English word for “reducing or taking away”. In woodwork the US use the term rabbets, probably a corruption of the original rebate. Rebates are also referred to in English financial terms for a reduction of a fee.

[@TermiteUSA]

Got one from a clueless flea who thought it was broken for 7$ and love it.

[@noxew]

I got one in great shape just few weeks ago! This video could not have been uploaded at a better time, thank you Paul.

[@jeha1918]

good !!

[@kathleenbasieiwcz4636]

I bought 2 of these planes off E bay @ 5 months ago. One was in rather poor shape, so I refinished it. Took a while, but well worth it. The other one didn't need repairs and it came with an extra blade. I think it was a pretty sweet deal.

[@PapaJoeWalsh]

Very, very helpful. I've been thinking about investing in a rebate plane for rebates on family picture frames. I hate using a router for this purpose as I need to set mine up every time in my very small workshed. I am definitely moving towards using hand tools as much as possible; a fraction of the dust and almost zero noise. Trying to find the right one is a problem as I've never seen one in real life! Thanks again for the amazing tutorials Paul.

[@mickwhatley]

Paul what's the front mounting for?

[@mm9773]

It‘s for the same blade, to get (almost) all the way into corners. You can actually turn the plane around and mount the fence on the other side to get into the other corner as well - you just won’t have the spur cutter and the depth stop.

[@ahmadifwat478]

Front blade mount is used like a bullnose plane

[@paulsellers7953]

For stopped rebates. Create the bulk of the rebate length at the regular setting and then move the blade forward to take down the very end having first chiselled sloped cut to receive the end of the pane.

[@thusharaparanawithana7909]

Dear sir, I am a novice handtool woodworking hobbyist who takes your advice for restoring vintage hand planes. Following your instructions I successfully restored a Record Marples No 04 and it works beautifully. I am now on a hunt for a Stanley no78 rebate plane. During my search I noticed there are two Stanley models. On one the name of the manufacturing country is mentioned as MADE IN ENGLAND. On the other model it is MADE IN ENG. I am quite confused about this. If you spare a couple of minutes, I would like to know your thoughts on this. Thank you for enlightening us.

[@simongilchrist3329]

Paul, I love that you have so much knowledge and are willing to share it. I just picked up a #78 and I'm just doing a little clean-up on it. I noticed a hole drilled through the top of the tote. Didn't think much of it until I noticed the same on yours. Clearly manufactured that way. Do you, or another viewer, have any idea what that's for? Or is it just part of the manufacturing process?

[@fredosachoff]

Thank you! Just getting started and your instruction is amazing. Trying to decide between the stanley 78 and the record 778 with the two rods. Is there any advantage to the two rod system in practice? The stanley 78 that I have tried has a fence that seems to wiggle a bit but the pivot point is quite near the blade so perhaps it doesn't matter? Any thoughts would be appreciated from yourself or the community at large here. Thank you in advance.

[@roriquevernonii8439]

Kinda scary! I'm about done cleaning up an old one I bought with a lot of planes. i was curious about how these work, and this video pops up! Thanks, Mr. Sellers for the knowledge!

[@JoshuaMichail0]

That is a superb rabbet plane, I have one just like it, a Stanley too. I've used it to make tongues for tongue and groove board joints. The plane does make the job so easy.

[@thethirdman225]

My grandfather, who died when I was 3 years old, had one of these but it's a really unusual one. It's not a Stanley or a Record. It's an 'Anchor' brand plane that was made in Sweden. It doesn't look especially high or low quality but it's still in very good condition. A number of years ago I managed to source a set of depth and fence attachments for it but the threads were not the right ones for the plane and although I did attach them, they were never properly secured and the plane didn't really work properly. I suspect the threads - being Swedish - were metric. By the way, there's another word for these that seems to be unique to Australia (where I'm from). Here they were known as 'rebbet' planes. Similar in pronunciation to the American 'rabbet' but with an 'e' instead of an 'a'.

[@Anna_and_Tiger]

👋🐯 I found one that was new old stock in the box and came with three fence rods, I understand using a long fence rod to cut a dado but that would be a thick dado for thick stock, is there an operation I can do that I'm missing out on? Maybe a raised panel. Is there any literature on other uses? I forgot to mention the rods are 2 7/8"-5 6/8 and the longest @ 9".

[@teoconserv9954]

"I'm showing off" he says in the least show-offy, voice possible. Just matter-of-fact casual dismissive, no attention was drawn at all.

[@geowhiz1]

I cannot think of anyone who knows more about planes than you, and I have a question about the Stanley 39 dado plane. I am trying to restore one for shop use, and I have acquired the proper knickers, but NOT the screws. As they are rarely available alone, would you know or be able to identify the thread and size of those tiny screws? I will probably have to go aftermarket to find them once I can identify size and thread. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@nealwalden3543]

Excellent video and instruction! So useful. I own the Record version of this tool and it benefits by a two post fence attachment and a nice(r) blade advance mechanism. Highly recommended.

[@eddy270384]

Hi all. I have one question. Considering this tool being designed for right handed people, I find strange having the vertical machines face of the plain body facing right. In this way you are not actually seeing the surface you are plaining. What's the reason for this design I'm missing right now?

[@738polarbear]

I know what I'm about to say will not sound right but I truly believe that if you practice what Paul preaches you can al.ost say he gave you an apprenticeship. I mean, he shows you all about joinery, tools and wood . What do more could you want?

[@derekrisk1925]

Is the bevel on the spur toward the body of the plane? I assume you want the flat part of the spur cutter against the "wall"?

[@Nduk123]

If you remove the guard it looks the same as a bull nose plane? Especislly with the front blade bed.

[@harlowchandlerjr.6371]

PDF of old 78 manual here www.contrib.andrew.cmu.edu/~flip/wood/planes/stanley-078.pdf

[@612morrison]

I got my Stanley 78 on ebay for £20, complete just needed a tidy up.

[@robling7738]

me too

[@radinsyah1574]

I’m always getting problems with lateral leaning in one direction or the other, as it the fence or depth stopper arent big or wide enough. Any tips?

[@pz5341]

Hi. How much should the blade protrude past the side even it shouldn't be even as you say?

[@tonyennis1787]

I am not as successful with my #78. I think my spurs are all dull.

[@horsetowater]

Interesting festool has only recently bought out a tracksww that scores the material before cutting when this has been doing it for generations already!

[@EggyOrphan]

Does anyone know where we can see how to make our own spurs from a hacksaw? I keep hearing about it but don't know how to go about it.. Thanks.

[@Splatterpunk_OldNewYork]

Having purchased one last year, I cannot imagine not having one in my arsenal now.

[@intrepidshedman3309]

If only Stanley still made this plane rather than the lumps of scrap metal that look like this and have the same number. I don’t recommend the new ones

[@mattfairfield9103]

What a fascinating tool! I like watching that one at work, along with a ploughing plane. Soooo satisfying haha!

[@TomasRosberg]

I have a few of them I can sell if anyone is looking for one with all the parts...

[@sethwarner2540]

Wow, I have this plane and need the spur, fence, and depth guage. How do I contact you?

[@TomasRosberg]

@@sethwarner2540 insta a t tinyroomwoodworks

[@micheljauvin3536]

could you used it to make a raise panel

[@robertsparkman8516]

I just started using my Sargent 1080, Stanley 45 clone, I see it does all this. I was chopping out grooves with a chisel before.

[@btudrus]

are there wider filister planes? like 3-4 inch wide cuttings?

[@Mr_Rick]

What about the forward blade position? What's it for please.

[@guitarsandsuchetc]

Why is it that to create a wall with the 78 you need the blade to stick out a little to side of the wall your creating, but on a shoulder plane the blade needs to be flush.

[@01132436606]

Thanks Paul, another great video. I bought one a few weeks back, now I know how to set the iron properly. Cheers

[@Ashevillein]

With the fence across the blade, doesn't that mar the blade?

[@ZX9RDan]

What is the full purpose of the rent blade housing?

[@louismac1]

i.got one but someone grinded down the blade flush with sides

[@jamesblevins6078]

where do I get a replacement spur? haven't been able to locate one. Mine was broken when i got it new..

[@harlowchandlerjr.6371]

Search for Stanley part# 1-12-715; they are available for very little money at many retailers online. You will get a kit with 3 new spur cutters and six new screws, because they know you're going to lose that tiny screw on the shop floor every time you try to change the spur.

[@whatnowstinky]

THANK YOU!!!

[@zigazalar599]

Hey, can you also mount the blade to the front side?

[@Dustwheel]

Poor Man's rebate plane is much better!

[@indalcecio]

Without the fence can it be used for dadoes and grooves?

[@benjamindbailey]

Picked up one of these on the side of the road. The guy was set up next to his truck and sold it for $7! Thanks for explaining what this type of plane is for! Looks useful.

[@smasica]

Once a person gets used to setting it up and using it, I would think it would be quicker than using a power router or table saw for that type of work.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

Probably depends on batch size. With the table saw you have to acocunt for att the sleds and jigs you have to build to make it do things is wasnt intended for and wether it's worth building dem to make 4 pieces.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

@@adamf1347 Yep for a hobby / one off custom furniture shop I agree but for production applications had tools can get tedious quickly. People very much over use CNC machines and such in hoppy environments aswell. Maybe that's because their hoppy is the machine rather than the end product though.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

@@adamf1347 Amateur woodworkers is fine. The other term just seem pompous or pretentious.

[@whitacrebespoke]

If you got a one off this tool is great. It’s when you got a set of 20 windows to make the spindle moulded becomes very attractive. I often use my rebate plane on site instead oh a hand held router things can go wrong fast on a door edge with a router but less likely with a rebate plane.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

@@whitacrebespoke Yes. That's exactly my point. No reason tho get tribal about what tools you use. Is like for me as a mechanic the power tools help me get through the day without locking up my joints too often. I do like using good hand tools aswell though.

[@ianpearse4480]

Very interesting. Cheers Paul.

[@woodsniffer]

What would I use front bullnose for?

[@kardRatzinger]

Thumbs up for "just showing off" :D

[@johnrcoben]

he needs a longer screwdriver

[@drewpearsonmusic]

Thanks for the video Paul(and team). Is there a way to adjust the depth of cut of the knicker? When I tighten the spur it centers itself around the screw and end up protruding a 16th or more. The plane blade ends up not being able to take a shaving unless I really bear down on the front of the plane.

[@DIYWoodworkingHobby]

The snicker can't be extended or shortened (as in traditional fillister), is that okay, Mr. Paul? (sorry my english)

[@joseangelmorales2151]

Thanks Paul!

[@MACLADILLY]

Hi Paul, can you talk about the front position for the blade on the 78 plane? I assume it's for getting closer to the finish line when cutting stopped rebates? Love your channel, thanks.

[@Alphalion1968]

Hello Paul, I like Your Channel. I search for my Stanley 55 Kombi-Plane the little Crosscutter. On my Plane are both to short. Do You know where can I buy this??? Trank You!

[@thomasarussellsr]

Just found one in semi-decent shape at a flea market (car boot sale). Only it is missing the fence and depth stop. Approximately 60% of the Japaning is gone as well. Was definitely a used tool by someone over the years, but no signs of abuse. I'm guessing the missing parts got separated in a drawer by the previous user and maybe the children didn't know to look for them when their dad died? Anyway, as with all older tools, if only they could talk and tell you all of their stories.

[@pperly]

Excellent video! How do you use the plane when the you need to cut a rabbit against the grain (not a cross-cut)? Every time I try it, it rips (up) the wood. It's like a need a "left-sided" fillister plane. BTW, I'm using a Record version.

[@eddy270384]

Hi Paul and everybody. Looking at the body of this plane design it has also a front seat for the cutting iron, isn't it? I would like to learn more about this. It seems it doesn't allow cutting iron protruding adjustmen or do I have to move somehow the regulation leverage? What is this position meant for? It make the plane work like a bullnose plane? Sorry if it's trivial for you all, I've still a lot to learn. regards.

[@FranklinArtSite]

Enjoy your vids. Only thing I would have added is to point out that the nicker is flush with the side of the plane. It's obvious but important not to overlook. Thanks for all you do.

[@dichotomy88]

I’ve recently bought a a Record #50. The plane has a few extra parts that seem inexplicable. Anyone have a copy of the booklet it might have have a guide? Also any suggestions on sharpening the spur cutter? I can send pics if anyone has knowledge on this model.

[@zimmermaniacs]

finally I know how to handle that plane that's sitting there for over 25 years, doing absolutely nothing but being safely stored in a wooden box....let's get it out :)

[@TrevorDennis100]

They say that really good editing goes unnoticed by the viewer, and I have just realized how good your editing is. Lots of cut ins to closeups all perfectly focused and appearing to be in real time. Very few of the channels I watch do proper editing. They just turn on the camera, and upload the entire thing.

[@chm1701]

There are times that I would appreciate a different camera angle, Trevor, to really get close to what Paul is adjusting or talking about. However, I do agree that his videos are superb. I’ve learnt so much over this past few years. He’s a wealth of knowledge and I can’t thank him enough.

[@johnkneemtb]

Why do you think they aren't in real time? 3 cameras?

[@TrevorDennis100]

@@johnkneemtb I own a canon XF300 which is a broadcast quality 4:2:2 video camera. I paid NZ$13 for it several years ago. It can't sync with other cameras though. For that you need the XF305 which can be synced to more similarly equipped cameras. So I was thinking it not very likely you could mix multiple GoPro type cameras in real time, but checked with Google before making a twat of myself, and I was astonished to find that it is indeed doable. What the heck?! www.timecodesystems.com/how-to-sync-gopro-hero6/

[@randomscandinavian6094]

They still sell these at my (expensive) local hardware store. I didn’t know so I got an old one off eBay. Ended up costing almost as much with international shipping and 25% VAT + customs fee. The spur broke almost immediately and the only part they seemto have changed over the years except the handle grip is the spur. The later ones are thicker. So a replacement won’t fit the old plane. I suppose I could sharpen one of the other sides. A knife line works well but the whole thing irritates me.

[@Jeff034]

Tried to use a plough plane to rebate - because I forgot I owned a 78. Argh - cross grain chip 😬