How to Sew Darts

This week I'm sharing some dart sewing tips - how to mark them, how to sew them (without tying a knot to secure the threads), how to press them and how to sew them in heavy fabrics. Hopefully there are tips most sewers will find useful and I'm interested to hear your favourite tips in the comments too. Darts are often very visible on our handmade garments so it's great if we can get good results. I have also previously recorded videos on how to raise and lower bust darts so I've put a link to that below in case that is useful to anyone. I've also included links to the sewing tools I used - the most important of all being a tailors ham!
► Sew Essential www.sewessential.co.uk
► Hemline tailors ham www.sewessential.co.uk/tailor...
► Prym tailors ham www.sewessential.co.uk/prym-t...
► Chaco pens www.sewessential.co.uk/sewing...
► Prym pin wristband www.sewessential.co.uk/prym-l...
► Prym pins www.sewessential.co.uk/sewing...
► Quilting ruler www.sewessential.co.uk/sew-ea...
► Raising and lowering bust darts tutorial • How to Raise or Lower ...
► Small bust adjustment tutorial • Small Bust Adjustment ...
Carefree Melody by Twin Musicom is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/... www.twinmusicom.org/song/302/c... www.twinmusicom.org

[@swiinka]

As a beginner I love your tips&tricks videos! As a curvy lady I definitely need to know everything there is to know about darts, so this will definitely come in handy. Thank you & warmest greetings from Ireland!

[@SewEssential]

Ah it's a pleasure thanks so much for your kind words and for watching.

[@roxannlegg750]

So nice to see old schooll methods being taught. This is what we did before magic markers etc!

[@danmcd5393]

A singer. Sewing essentials tip from the 1950's. This is a little slower but there is absolutely no thread or bulk at the tip of the dart. Takeoff/ snip the top/upper thread at the spin. from the sewing machine. Pull out at least 18"/50 cm of thread from the bottom bobbin. Reverse thread the machine, needle eye (start from the wrong side, through the guide eyes, knot the bottom thread to the top thread and then pull threading in reverse - take up arm and tension mechanisms make sure you have foot lifted release the tensioner,. Pull through enough free thread at least the length of the dart. Start at the dart point and sew slowly for the first 1/2"/1cm by turning the hand along your mark line. Sew out to the dart leg points and to the hem line. Cut and press the dart as required. No bulk from extra thread or back tacking at the dart point - Amazing!

[@aseret01666]

Brilliant tips thank you. I had heard of tailor's tacks but didn't know how to do them. A really helpful tutorial - thanks again.

[@SewEssential]

That's great to hear I'm so glad it was helpful for you.

[@annebrown3538]

Well I watched the video and thought yes I know all those tips I’ve been sewing a long time, then the very last tip regards putting paper or card under the dart when pressing to stop shine was one I’d never thought of ! Will definitely use that, thanks Lucy never too old to learn new things 🤩

[@SewEssential]

Brilliant I'm so glad it seems like a lot of people learned some new ideas - yay!

[@ginabisaillon2894]

Tailors tacks are my favourite method!

[@SewEssential]

It is the way I was taught although I'm too impatient and usually go for the chalk

[@urszulagoralska9944]

It is also useful to draw a line down the middle of the dart, then you might use it as a guide line when you fold the fabric.

[@SewEssential]

Great idea for beginners Urszula thanks for sharing

[@annjarvis5213]

Great tips, I will try your fastening off in the dart seam tip next time I have to sew darts. Thank you.

[@SewEssential]

Great I'm so glad it was helpful to you

[@johngriffith744]

Great video, thank you.

[@jaynehinton672]

Brilliant tips- thank you!

[@SewEssential]

It's a pleasure thanks

[@jillridley1041]

Great tips, thank you for sharing 💕

[@SewEssential]

It's a pleasure thanks for watching

[@jessicav606]

Such a helpful video!

[@SewEssential]

I love it when people say that I'm so glad

[@maureencullen1008]

Love your tutorials as their so easy to follow.

[@SewEssential]

Ah thanks Maureen that is so lovely of you I really appreciate your comments

[@fergie85bep]

Such a great video: I’ll put these tips in practice! Thank you for sharing 😘

[@SewEssential]

It's a pleasure thanks for the lovely feedback

[@denisedagnone4115]

Thank you Lucy great video 🇦🇺💗

[@SewEssential]

It's a pleasure thanks for watching

[@leedavis5958]

Hi Lucy. Great tips I'll use that tip on the jacket i am making. Thank you. 👍

[@SewEssential]

Wonderful have fun sewing

[@traceystewart6232]

Thank you for sharing

[@SewEssential]

It's a pleasure thanks for stopping by on our channel

[@marshmello1848]

First time watching your video and love it. No time wasting - straight to the point (literally). I'm sold on chaco pen. My main problem is actually aiming at the point of the dart and I sometimes overshoot. One other thing, someone told me you should curve your dart if it's bust as our bodies are curved not shaped. Wonder what you think of that?

[@SewEssential]

Yes I've heard that too and know some people do curve it a little at the end, my advice on both counts would be to practice on a scrap of fabric until you perfect it and feel happy with the results. It won't take long, but you'll learn loads and will be super confident when you come to sew them on an actual garment.

[@Cyrilmc222004]

Thank you so much Lucy, I really really love ❤️ this, and although I’ve been sewing for many many years, I’ve found this tutorial really really helpful and useful too. Please stay safe and well too

[@SewEssential]

Brilliant Mags I'm so pleased to hear it thank you

[@user-fc3sx2cw5x]

Hi Lucy. I just made myself a pattern of a 4-panel midi-maxi skirt. I did the pattern by tracing out a replica shop-bought skirt that I’ve owned for so long. However, after completely having made the paper pattern and added seam allowance to it, I realised there was 1 dart on the waistline of each of the 2 back panels of the original skirt. I don’t want to throw away my pattern and make a new one cuz it took so long. Is there a way I add those darts to the back panels patterns that I already made? Plz help

[@hattiedraper1061]

How about cutting your pattern down the length of the dart and inserting an extra bit of paper in the V ?

[@user-fc3sx2cw5x]

@@hattiedraper1061 aww how nice of you to actually read my comment and help out! Thank you SO much! To update you- I ended up re-drawing the top quarter part of the skirt panel (I.e. where the dart is meant to have been). This way, I don’t redraw the whole thing again. I don’t know how I hadn’t thought of that already. I, too, thought of your idea (cutting down where the dart is and putting paper in the V. But I wasn’t sure if this would give me the correct curve and everything. So I tested it out. Having drawn the correct version, I compared it to the result that your method would give me, and they were very very similar. There was just millimetres between them; and I only had to fix up the curve on the side seams, on your method. So I think it is safe to say that Skirt darts are safe to be done in your way 👍👍 hurray lol. Hope that was useful to you too :) 🤗

[@hattiedraper1061]

@@user-fc3sx2cw5x Yes it certainly is useful. Thanks for the feedback. Truth is that I was only guessing, I’ve never actually done it! So well done you. I hope the finished skirt turns out ok.

[@user-fc3sx2cw5x]

@@hattiedraper1061 thank you 🤗🤗🤗

[@alexaelliott2598]

Measure on your pattern at the waistline the halfway point between the side and midseam. At that point measure down and mark 5 inches. Draw a line from those 2 points. Cut down that line to the 5inch mark. Insert a piece of paper creating a 1 inch width at the waistline between the two cut edges by spreading the original pattern. Make sure you leave about an inch of paper above the waistline. This should now look like a dart shape. To get the correct shape of the dart draw a line one half inch in (down the middle) of the inserted paper to the end point. This will be your sewing line. You need to “true the dart” by folding down the midline. This will create extra paper at the top that should look like a wedge, above the waistline. Remember to not cut off the little extra paper at the top because you need this to form a dart correctly. The easiest way to insert the paper to form the dart is to get a piece of paper about 3 inches by 7 inches. On the side measuring 3 inches draw a line across the paper 1 inch down from top of the paper. Mark each inch along that line. At the 1.5 inch mark draw a line down the centre of the paper to the end. This line will be your centre of the dart. On your original pattern, where you have cut down 5inches insert this paper making sure the points you have measured on the paper fill a 1 inch gap at the waistline cut. If you place the 1inch mark and 2 inch mark on each side of the slashed pattern the centre line you have drawn should go down the centre of your slashed pattern. Tape the paper to your original pattern. Now true the dart as described above. It’s very easy to do despite the detailed description I have written. Good luck.