How to Shade and Highlight True Metallic Gold - HC 376

In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through how to shade and highlight true metallic gold. What paints and colors to use to and how to apply them to really get that metal to pop.
#warhammer #tmm #ageofsigmar
0:00 Intro
0:45 Basic Painting
5:02 Intermission
5:35 Finishing & Smoothing
9:50 Outro
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[@themobius8077]

I know this is a video about Gold but that skin is truly smooth and the tones on the belly are particularly pleasing.

[@tadelong]

I actually found it distractingly smooth. Had to go back and listen again 'cause I spent too much time thinking about how many stretch marks a distention like that would have. Not complaining, it's beautiful! Just suspicious.

[@wing459]

Haha I know what you mean, I was thinking the same about the armour panels and the leather as well.

[@gabrieljones8879]

@@wing459 I've watched this video twice now because I just can't stop looking at the skin tones... I swear I'm developing ADHD! :P

[@zramirez5471]

If I hadn't had the same issue I'd swear you guys had issues pervin on purified ogre flesh XD

[@jakelilevjen9766]

I thought the armor panels were particularly awesome. Great color transition from very dark to bright.

[@TheSuitness]

I love using guilliman flesh for the brown gold shading. Hardly need to thin it down because it is a contrast paint.

[@TheGeppywizard]

That looks so cool! Your conversions always have just the right amount of purposeful chaos (pun not completely intended) in your design....meaning if I didn't know better I'd think it was an actual GW kit. Then your brilliant painting on top of that...wow dude...just wow.

[@Malthus]

Lets get, to the technique, and learn it Vince-V style!

[@idiealot9958]

Sir, literally yesterday I thought about asking you “how to approach TMM Gold”. And today I get this movie. Thank you. From the bottom of my heart.

[@pkmcleod]

Perfect timing as always - just working on some TMM! I also love the transitions on your armour panels! They look great!

[@Winterydee]

Correction about the Airbrush which you used... I believe that is not an Iwata... that is your Harder & Steenbeck. I only say that because I have the same airbrush.

[@bethanygraham427]

Love the skin and those armour plates - so smooth...

[@cuthulux]

I've been waiting for this video! Thank you!

[@apollux012]

Thanks for all. You really deserve the 100k subs. All the best for next year. You are really a true insipration and a very good teacher.

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you so much 😀

[@Rosarosa106]

Another great video ! Thanks so much Vince !!

[@walshmobile37]

Took me halfway through the video to realize this was the model from the kitbash video, lookin good!

[@karlmills4848]

Incredible model, it's looking incredible

[@Izzyspaintingworkshop]

That guy looks beast! Great video as always, and it was cool to see that conversion you showed us painted up!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you liked it!

[@LaLaObeRoT]

"Think of it as one volume, one shape..." Can't tell you how helpful this advice was. Thank you.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@scottbaker2451]

Great tutorial. Thanks for the top tips! I've had some success with raw umber oil washes over Vallejo Metal Colour gold, particularly on flat surfaces, where you can simply lift of the washes from the flat bits.

[@RedMageUltra]

Got myself a Helbracht model recently so I’m using this video for his armor!

[@AdamSpokes]

Amazing, this is exactly what I was looking for after watching your magic gold video. Also that paint job is insane

[@VinceVenturella]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@mikaelpettersson2052]

Such a cool model! And great info as usuall.

[@Thertra70]

Excited to see how quickly you got paint on him he came out great

[@br42]

I scaled the Vling (Vince Bling) Gold recipe up awhile back to mix larger batches. I think I got the math right, but 🤷‍♂. Measuring drops was a challenge. Anyway I came up wi/9ml of gold, 6ml of copper, 3/8 of tsp (dashx3) of pigment.

[@jonbauml225]

I love TMM this was just what I needed to see

[@Jackaljkljkl]

As an aside, if you have something silver with small gold details on it, I found that Iyanden Yellow Contrast (mixed 50-50) with the Technical Contrast Medium) over silver works well and is obviously less fiddly than actually using gold paint for the details.

[@goldmundswelt]

Thanks si much for these tips I really love your tutorials ❤

[@davidhintz1249]

That ogre is absolutely gorgeous! WOWOWZA!!! Video is very helpful, with great instruction. At the moment, I am shading some TMM gold, and this video has been a huge help in achieving more realistic results. Thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@geteavnroc2250]

Correction: Airbrush is a H&S Infinity. Not an iwata.

[@benrichardson5662]

I'm no pro but I consider myself decent, and I've had some good results with thinned Gore Grunta Fur. It is definitely subtle as Vince says, but you can build it up with patience and the warmth of the brown works very well, for the same reason Rhinox Hide (one of my absolute favorite GW paints) works so well. I just find the contrast paint to be much easier to get a smooth result with.

[@xenocide1307]

You can could try to add some varnishes to help with these issues. Gloss with contrasts helps keep the shine intact, and matte with the base metallic helps future layers adhere, and the full shine can be restored at any point with a gloss final coat.

[@VinceVenturella]

I'm not generally a fan of varnish over metallics. When you have a true shine metallic, a varnish layer will always look fake or disruptive over the top, but a good paint can adhere to even glossy metallics without too much issue.

[@zramirez5471]

Vince it is absolutely incredible to watch you work your magic. I have an obsession with metallic alcohol inks and I think given some brush control and better management of the amount of ink in the brush (so far the hardest part with the fast-drying alcohol inks: especially the metallics!) I am going to figure this out!

[@Crying94Wolf]

I hopes that, there will be guide for those badass armor plates. Definitely should paint like this for one of my chaos knights

[@jakobo88]

your tutorials are insane, great job

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you like them!

[@RoboticDragon]

I only discovered your videos the other day, but your videos for me stand out compared to others. The main reason is you tend to share every little detail you do. You dont just expect people to understand the things you do as you leave out things. Its good stuff for newer painters, wish I had found your stuff when I was younger and new. I also appreciate where you highlight. You highlight realistically.

[@VinceVenturella]

Welcome aboard! Glad to have you along on the hobby journey and happy you like the videos. :)

[@johntailby74]

I was busy playing spot the donor kit for all those different pieces.

[@RochelleHasTooManyHobbies]

I was crossing my fingers to see this guy all painted up!! He looks absolutely stunning, perfectly grotesque, a glorious nightmare. And the gold against the black just makes him pop even more. Thanks for the TMM tips! I'm experimenting with mica powder to see if I can get TMM with colored light-sources - mixing in paint just seems to ruin the effect. But boy howdy, playing with the consistency is not fun (but is also, simultaneously, very fun).

[@novanIV]

5:03 Shout out to that Basandra, Battle Seraph art on the monitor. One of my favorite bits of Angel art from MtG. Was never able to make an EDH deck work with her as the commander before I stopped played, RW was a hard color combination (at least for our group back then) and she didn't have enough support to justify running her over other RW generals (cough Gisela cough), but man did I try. More on topic, great tutorial as always, will try this out next time I am working on gold!

[@MB-THX1138]

The colour scheme is great

[@coryway6951]

I've already been using your recipe for The Gold on my Custodes. Excited to add this next step. I'm thinking that experimenting with more purple or green browns might yield some interesting results for an internationally less realistic gold 🤔

[@cmleibenguth]

Great Gargant conversion

[@cliffwood7386]

Big fan of the gold recipe, I've been shading/highlighting mine in a similar way, but still good to have a reference and some more tips!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@markgnepper5636]

Great stuff friend 👏 👍

[@Randytravis247]

Still the gold recipe I use on all models since watching the original video; thank you!

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@nathangerardy2669]

Great effect. Just can't get me to agree that NMM looks as good as actual metallics. Thanks!

[@isisnmagic1812]

Awesome video, ano6great tip going forward, thanks for posting.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful!

[@samshinners6557]

Love the video as always Vincent. Def a time and a place for TMM and I think you picked it! Are you going to release a video about the rest of the painting? I would love to see it! ❤

[@Mithlinthar]

1. Thank you for this tutorial. It's something I really wanted to learn 2. I would strongly reccomend you to check out new GSW metallic paints - Chrome Metal Antique Gold and Chrome Metal Bronze. It's basically their glorious metallic pigment pre-mixed with an alcohol medium in perfect ratio. It's as awesome as Vallejo Liquid Gold, but much easier to use (even with an airbrush).

[@VinceVenturella]

I'll have to check it out!

[@themodelhobbyist]

Thanks for the tips an technics to what looks to be a super cool figure. I just love the look of that things. 🙂Thomas over at The Model Hobbyist

[@christophercassidy-schroed9169]

Nice one Vincey V... closing up on the 100K subs, great Job!

[@VinceVenturella]

Fingers crossed!

[@Mikey__R]

I like Armour Brown for shadows on yellow metals. It's even more purple, and will turn gold into dark grey.

[@justincalahan1211]

It didn’t even cross my mind to use silver as a highlight... no wonder my gold looked a little lackluster... Definitely going to be trying this.

[@jakelilevjen9766]

Request: As someone who does not own Citadel paints, could you also be sure to note some other substitutes, or at least a description of the color you are using? You did briefly in this video, which I appreciate, but doing it with the first mention of the color or paint being used would be really nice. Thank you for all the amazing content, Vince!

[@ringodeathstarr9795]

great gargant man

[@komma8203]

Iawata is probely super happy that you said that the realy nice harder&steenbeck infinety was a Iawata 🤣🤣🤣 But in all seriousness, great video, its pretty colse to how i work with them, but the gsw metal pigments are great, i did order them the first week they where out after release, and i just love them

[@wolfparable2018]

Another excellent video I’ve had a couple questions/ video requests I suppose for a while 1. How would you go about painting older or weathered skin on standard sized minis? 2. What about reptilian scales/ textures and more natural but unusual color schemes?

[@VinceVenturella]

Those are both some complicated answers, I’ve covered scales and such in a few previous videos, but those sound great things to add to the list for a future video!

[@warpfiendstudios9815]

Great vid, i feel like my TMM has slipped behind my NMM lately so it's good to see some clarification on how you work the paint. My main frustration tho is that TMM paints eat my spare brushes and I find it so hard to keep a tip on them and have full control over the paint, any tips on that?

[@ForgottenStreams]

Very cool process, thanks! Do you have any guidance for painting bases to a display quality level?

[@VinceVenturella]

My basing videos have a whole playlist, so check that out, but really, it’s just about lots of tonal variation and creating the layers you see in nature (mud, grasses, bushes, plants, fallen leaves, so on) that stack of the natural world.

[@IamTheActualDave]

This is great content as always. For the Rhinox hide, do you glaze this in?

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes, usually, I will sometimes vary the paint or color used, but this is the most common.

[@jamesgoodsell1678]

Incredibly useful advice Vince. I’d be interested to hear your thoughts about drybrushing TMMs over a black (or brown) base coat, especially for mass rank army painting?

[@VinceVenturella]

I'm generally against it, as it just doesn't sell close up and it's really hard to be that precise late in the game (and I don't like metals first). NOW, that being said, it can be good for mostly metallic miniatures when you want to create that roughness to show weathering or such, then it works great.

[@jamesgoodsell1678]

Fantastic, thanks Vince, much appreciated!

[@nare2503]

Thanks for another great video, more TMM guides are always helpful! I've been working on some 3D printed miniatures I bought online. When painting TMM on these, the layer lines (otherwise almost invisible) really pop up and start showing especially on flat surfaces. Do you have any tips on how to work around this?

[@VinceVenturella]

It's tough, because the metal/high gloss is going to show any flaws in the print or anything similar. With paint, there isn't much you can do, if you dull the metals out/rust them and so on, you won't see it as much, so that's one option. Otherwise, you are talking about prep - so you're talking about sanding and so on.

[@traiantulbure3819]

Hi Vince another great video. I Love the colour scheme on this model and I’ve stolen it. I just wanted to ask your opinion on using oil washes on metallics? If you’ve found that’s a method that works, and how it compares vs regular washes/ contrast paint or acrylics for shading TMM? Thanks!

[@skynes]

I adore your gold mix. It's the only gold I use now, everything else is just so... orange. The big issue I keep running into with it though, is how do you CONTROL it? I end up having two options: Wipe the excess liquid off on a paper towel. Doing this means it loses some of the reddy warmth, and its coverage is weaker, and more speckly (which I assume is the pigment). Leave some liquid in there. Doing this gives it much better coverage and colour, but it runs more easily and if I'm painting trim out to the edge, it runs onto the panels quite often.

[@VinceVenturella]

I will wick a little off, the key is messing around with the mix so you aren’t getting that much flow, pull back a little on the flow improver or similar and you should be in a good spot.

[@califax512]

Cool video! What do you think about gloss shades from citadel for shading metallics?

[@VinceVenturella]

I'm not the biggest fan, but they can certainly work in place of the normal wash you see here, but it can make later layers harder to paint.

[@ArtworkByBoneless]

I've got a request topic, because I cannot find anything on it! How to paint Orange Hi-Vis clothes. I thought it would make for a great unique take on my Orlocks, but am scared about where to start.

[@bensdn3969]

Hi Vince. Once again thank you for this video. What do you think about glazing with differents metallic colours? (Obtained by mixing them with medium).

[@VinceVenturella]

Sure, totally doable.

[@Wijkert]

Have you ever tried the glossy version of the GW shades to see if the fare better than the regular ones when it comes to not killing the shine of mettalics?

[@VinceVenturella]

I did, I didn’t like the result. :)

[@wimvanackooij2594]

Awesome stuff ; Really great armour as well ; Is it a visual bug or was there some gold to go on the second to top left armour chest plate (at 8:38) ? If so - or let's say hypothetically - is that something that you would fix at the end of the process or "immediately"?

[@VinceVenturella]

I would fix it immediately if at all possible.

[@georgesutherlandhoward4417]

Hey Vince, have you ever tried using a purple tone to shade gold and brass? I've found it creates a really interesting color variation in these warmer metals.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, in some previous videos, I talk about using purple as a shade color. :)

[@TheJhfkgf]

Its been really fun following your true metallic series, thanks for the effort you put it. One question I have, in terms of shading, can you mix your gold recipie with ink( as in, basically to make a new colour paint)? The one alteration I made was to use the vallejo metal colour varnish with the pigement cos is seperated a lot when I mixed with with vallejo gold and copper. Im not sure for a varnish would interact with inks.

[@skynes]

I actually did mix the gold recipe with a burnt umber ink. It made a darker, redder, tone, that looked quite nice for airbrushing into shadows.

[@TheJhfkgf]

@@skynes oh right, cool. I wanted to make the gold a slightly different time using yellow and orange ink, hopefully it'll work out

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, you sure can.

[@perfidy1103]

I am reminded, once again, that I need to try out your gold recipe. That gold base coat is just... it's so smooth. Did you apply it through an airbrush or with a brush. The thick trim on the vambraces looks like it was probably applied with a brush, but I'm not sure.

[@VinceVenturella]

All brush work.

[@Vortid]

Yay much anticipated! Seems like you could have lots of colouring options for gold shades, like subtle green or violet. One question on metallic paints in general: I have sometimes seen painters use metallics but 'force' highlights with regular matte paint, do you ever do this? I feel like sometimes you have a surface, like weapons held very straight out, where you would like to highlight part of it quite bright to make it stand out, but it is maybe facing a way where the metallic paint will just not catch enough light in most situations. So with just metallics it ends up looking a bit boring.

[@VinceVenturella]

I will push shadow with matte paint, but I find matte highlights just look bad, good metal paints should really pop.

[@warlock2101]

Vince,what’s the gold paint you’re using here? It looks really nice.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's from this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGfCYoptr7dgmaM&pp=gAQBiAQB

[@krisj451]

Looks like a Harder & Steenbeck to me

[@dannythompson9642]

👍👍

[@meticulouschaos]

How would you varnish this model to protect it while keeping the shine on the metal but not everything else?

[@VinceVenturella]

I don't varnish metals. :)

[@docbun]

Is "Garaghak's Sewer" the contrast paint you mention? Just out of curiosity. I suppose any ink / contrast / speed whatever paint with a dark ochre-yellow tone will work?

[@VinceVenturella]

Correct on both.

[@McWerp]

Rather than a classic wash, could you use an oil wash? I’ve really liked oil washes on my steels, and was planning on doing the same with my golds.

[@VinceVenturella]

100%, it's actually a stronger choice.

[@McWerp]

@@VinceVenturella Wonderful! Thank you!

[@trevoradams8675]

Sorry if this has been asked but what model is this ?! Awesome videos as always,

[@VinceVenturella]

A custom giant I converted in this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/r3yTqZJ9mMRjeZo

[@Smilomaniac]

Vince, I have a question relating to what you're talking about early on in this video, about changing the surface of a paint, which I believe is called a filter in non GW hobbies. I have an orange army that I paint (trollslayer orange), that I put seraphim sepia over to tone down the neon paint and give some faux depth. Works great for knee pads and basically every panel and surface of a marine because it's easy to control and high quality isn't the goal. But, how would I go about it on a tank, like a Land Raider, with massive surfaces? Should I airbrush the wash? Get a massive brush? Varnish first? It's very hard to apply evenly without staining and I've used other solutions, like simply spraying a light cover of brown over it (since I'm post shading anyway), but what if I don't always want to break out the airbrush because I'm working with an in-between surface size? Thanks for this tutorial/explanation by the way, I was having thoughts on this exact topic the other day (highlighting true metallics).

[@VinceVenturella]

Generally, this is where pin washing with oils or something similar is the key. It’s gives you the depth but in a controlled way.

[@Smilomaniac]

@@VinceVenturella Also known as panel lining, but I want a smooth even coat of seraphim sepia across the whole surface.

[@subversive1219]

What wash did you start with on the axe?

[@VinceVenturella]

Just Agrax earthshade

[@subversive1219]

@@VinceVenturella Thank you ;)

[@DarthVZ]

Iwata CR Plus? Technically the truth xD

[@RedGeist]

I am fixated on your antique gold recipe. Are there any paint products which have come out since that video, which you believe might enhance that green-gold look?

[@VinceVenturella]

Not really, it’s all just mixing around VMeC, varnish and the pigment and inks/paints.

[@ramonrivera4604]

4:35 Iwata cr plus? did you mean Infinity?

[@VinceVenturella]

I meant infinity CR plus. :)

[@benrichardson5662]

Kinda related, but I'm wondering if there's anything I can do to keep metallics usable on my pallette longer? You're not supposed to use a wet pallette, and metallic paints dry out very fast, especially when thinned.

[@VinceVenturella]

So it's always a problem, but I use a well palette (the little round hole, concave palette) as that is less surface area, but that is about all I have found.

[@M0U53B41T]

you said you went around and did the brightest edge highlight (the silver) on both sides of the filigree - does that mean where it may also be in the shadows? Sorry I have a really really hard time seeing light placement on metallics =/

[@VinceVenturella]

Yes sir, all the edges will bounce.

[@M0U53B41T]

@@VinceVenturella thanks!

[@KerfluffinMcWooly]

What silver color are you using?

[@VinceVenturella]

Vallejo Metal Color silver.

[@KerfluffinMcWooly]

Thanks @@VinceVenturella

[@Fagerlund_]

Maybe I didn't pay attention, but how do you decide where to put the shading in the first place?

[@VinceVenturella]

It’s something that can be tough, but in general, with metal, you’re talking about pushing the shadow to the top of the flat surface and in the recesses as a simple rule.

[@Fagerlund_]

Thank you! That seems a bit counter-intuitive which is probably why I struggle with it. I'll give that a go next time.

[@Born_Stellar]

what? you did this like 7 years ago. its settled. its settled!!! jk. I do use your recipe on all my gold. I don't always use the mix of VJ metal colour and GSW pigment, but I always use the techniques. speaking of which that warhound isn't painting itself.

[@Wijkert]

4:24 *Harder and Steenbeck CR Plus. I thought the 2 in 1 version came with a .4 needle and nozzle as the largest option.

[@wolvie90]

When done properly, I firmly believe TMM is much prettier than NMM.