How to Shimano Carbon X310 ELILEE Titanium Crank Arms 🚀 Q-factor reduction 12 11 10 Road Bike

[@spartanbike2260]

what size hex bolt do you need to tighten the pre load adjuster on the left side ?

[@Mobilant_US]

A very small Trox wrench is also available. Buy a set rather than a single size. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_on2aEWn

[@spartanbike2260]

@@Mobilant_US what size? i have a t8 torx

[@bahgatmostafa1927]

BTW thanks for the brilliant video

[@lloydusdavies]

What was the exact tool that you used to make sure that the spider was firmly attached to the drive side crank?

[@lloydusdavies]

Don't worry I answered that myself - it's the same as a park tool BBT-22

[@soapowejazz]

is the interface of the spyder to the crank arm an Easton Chinch one? Meaning, could I in theory mount Easton chainrings directly to these cranks without using any spyder?

[@Mobilant_US]

For more information, please contact the seller at the address below. The answer may be sent in a few days.s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_oC2VROb

[@lloydusdavies]

@soapowejazz I can answer this for you, at least in part. It's round and has 16 notches and has a diameter of 40mm exactly at the widest point. I know because I just bought one and measured it. I am not sure how the easton cinch system works but that info should help you. Even if an easton cinch spider would fit you would need to also make sure that it has the same offset as the elilee one or the xcadey one. I imagine they would be the same but you never know.

[@bahgatmostafa1927]

please advise the theory behind the 17mm on the drive side

[@lloydusdavies]

There's no real theory behind 17mm. You would put in whatever amount of spacers that would allow you get the cranks spinning freely but without any play. I measured the distance between the crank arms on the inside on the elilee x310 that I boughtt and it was 95.16mm. So if you measure the external width of your fitted bottom bracket and it was say 95.0 or 95.1mm then you would need no spacers. Presumably on this particular bottom bracket the external width of the fitted bottom bracket was 92.0mm so he added 3mm spacers to remove the gap. The measured external width of my Hambini BB86 bottom bracket is 90.5mm so I will be adding 4.5mm of spacers when I install my X310crankset. The question I need to solve is how much should I add to the drive side and how much to the non-drive side so that the chainline is what it should be. Ugh.

[@lloydusdavies]

Follow up after my actual install. The Elilee install manual suggests adding spacers to both the non-drive and drive side but I had not read that before I did my install. In my case I needed to add 3.5mm of spacers. At first I added them all to the non-drive side. Then I compared the drive side and non-drive side Qfactor and non-drive side was 2.0-2.5mm bigger (further out). So later I went back and reinstalled with 2mm spacers on the non-drive side and 1.5mm on the drive side so q-factor should be the same for both sides. I also have to say these cranks are pretty good. They replaced a Shimano Ultegra 12 speed crankset and they spin very smoothly. For a Chinese branded product they are kind of expensive but are a little big cheaper if you buy direct and when you consider you end up getting a super light crankset with power meter for $600 or so it's kind of a deal. Any European or US branded product like this would cost over $1000. The XCadey power meter they sell in conjunction with these cranks compared exactly (within 1%) with Favero Assioma Duo's using dcrainmaker's analyzer tool. Now all I have to worry about is longevity.....

[@lloydusdavies]

@@JQ0110 Yes it will but seems to shift smoothly and on my bike the di2 software set up for front and rear derailleur (ultegra 2x12) worked fine. I have an email in to them about chainline but I just assumed it would be somewhere between shimano 11 speed and 12 speed both of which would be fine for me. Of course the 12speed chainline should be 44.5mm to be best fit for me. FYI I measured chainline of the big ring on my setup and it was approx 50.7mm so if distance between big and small ring is 8.2mm then measured chainline by me is 46.6mm if my math is right. That's more than Shimano recommends by 1.1mm but as I said - it seems to work OK. And I could get this almost spot on by keeping the spacers on the non-drive side but then the q-factor for left and right would not be the same. Not that I can tell the difference anyway!

[@bahgatmostafa1927]

@@lloydusdavies great to know thanks, also I had SIGEYI PM and when comparing to wahoo trainer it’s just doing great. But please how did you measure the Qfactor precisely on both ends. Appreciate to know to make sure I did the right thing

[@lloydusdavies]

@@bahgatmostafa1927 I was not really measuring the q-factor - just making sure that they were the same (or close) on each side. I used an inexpensive digital caliper. I turned the crank so that drive side crank arm was parallel with the down tube and then measured the distance between the outside of the crank arm (at the place where the pedal gets threaded in) and the non-drive side of the down tube. I put some tape on the down tube so that I knew where i was measuring. Then I rotated the cranks 180 degrees and measured the same on the other side. Again - not caring actual numbers - just that they were similar. That is how I discovered a small imbalance when I installed all 3.5mm of spacers on the non-drive side.

[@aplanedividedthesky]

After tightening the spindle to 40-50 Nm on the drive side, I saw there's also another outer ring for which Elilee provides a nut in the package, so that it can be tightened with a hex key. In this ring, I can see an inscription "close" with an arrow in the direction of the turn, and a recommended 12-15 Nm. At what point do you tighten this ring? After tightening the spindle to 40-50 Nm? Thanks a lot for the video by the way, it's a lifesaver!

[@williamcroson9102]

I'm curious about this one too.

[@aplanedividedthesky]

@@williamcroson9102 If you're interested, I contacted Elilee, and they confirmed that this needs to be tightened AFTER the main nut is tightened. I've done that, and something to point out is that this cap screws in counterclockwise.

[@williamcroson9102]

@@aplanedividedthesky thanks for the info. Much appreciated.