How to Simple Key Switch Test

[@larryeaton7384]

I did research high and low to gather what you gave in one brilliant lesson. Thanks. This is a very good educational lesson on 7 terminal switches. Thank you for speaking plainly in layman's terms!

[@miker8188]

Awesome sets of videos. Has allowed me to avoid purchase of stator, voltage regulator, and key switch and track down charging issue to some faulty connections. Thanks for all the time and effort put into these step by step explanatory videos.

[@lawncare97]

Thank you for sharing. My key switch was bad it was not charging my battery was not charging my mower. I changed it and it's changing like a charm. Thank you for showing me how. You are a blessing 🙏😇.

[@nonnie2428]

Mr.Sartin, You are an exceptional teacher. I appreciate the detail. Im not a guy but am a granny. I have a lt2000 I could use some advice on. I’ll keep watching your vids. Ty.

[@sartingarage8045]

Nonnie Thank you and you are Welcome

[@davidsteinfeld9123]

Got to say I was hunting the world over to find something explained as you have in this video I have the same style switch on my arians garden tractor although I do have a question or a few Instead of the key switch I would like to put toggle switches would like to plug them to the existing terminals on the same wire harness with out all the cutting and spliseing I have see guys who race mowers do something like I want to do I am so glad to have found this video in it's purest knowledge of this procedure you think the methods described still applies to this wanted options I have tried to explain Now as I may not have said anything that makes sense but wise people are few these days I do hope to hear from you on this topic Thank you in advance

[@sartingarage8045]

You can do the Toggle switches The Toggle Switch will go to the same terminals in this video So say for lights would be B to L Toggle Switch in line B on one terminal L on the other

[@boatbuilder1954]

I have a older key switch from a 1983 782 Cub Cadet with 5 pins, only 4 of the terminals are marked ,A-S-M-G I assume the unmarked terminal is B ? I am not sure what original motor was in my Cub Cadet but I am putting in a Kohler CH20S with Magneto ignition and have read I have to do something to prevent burning up the coil but not sure what I need either maybe a diode? Thank You,

[@amberafarin8249]

Thank you very much for your fantastic video. I've got a 21 year old 42" yard machine riding mower model 13AP608G129 that I've been working to keep running these few years. Thank you very much for your fantastic video. I've got a 21 year old 42" yard machine riding mower model 13AP608G129 that I've been working to keep running these few years. Should there be any continuity between the G and A1 when switch is in off position?

[@sartingarage8045]

@amberafarin8249 I'm pretty sure that is a No You shouldn't have any connection on A1 to Ground Should only be A1 to B

[@ron1beverly807]

i have a cub cadet rzt50 kawasaki 22 hp engine year 2009. i love your videos. with my ignition switch off i am getting battery voltage to the voltage regulator, is this ok?

[@sartingarage8045]

I'm gonna say No That would drain the battery down I think your key Switch is shorted Unplug connector from key Switch Check Voltage at Regulator If there is NO Voltage Replace Key Switch

[@edwardsquires4740]

2👍for you Sir! I combined this video with your voltage regulator instructional video. I have a DR mower with an electric clutch to engage blades. Come to find out, I had a multitude of issues with mine (bad voltage regulator & bad key switch). Without your help, I would have had an engine that runs but wouldn't cut grass due to the 12V required to keep blades engaged. Effectively an expensive lawn ornament. Thanks again for people like you that take personal time to make videos & share the knowledge. Subscribed, liked, & bell ringer here. VR

[@nikao7751]

Thanks my friend. It's been one problem after another this season with my two Kubota zero turns I use for work. I was just getting ready to go home and put one away and nothing. I know the batteries good so I was thinking switch and this is going to be a big help. Thanks again.

[@5trillion1]

ive got a 48 volt battery golf cart switch that reads continuity in the on position with no power and 48 volts in the off position. im thinking the switch is working fine ive just got a totally disconnected ground somewhere. because the lights and everything else works not effected by the starter. can you chime in any suggestions? thanks bud. ive been chasing gremlins in this thing for 6 months now. funny thing is, all the years i worked i never sat back and dreamed of spending 8 hours a day working on projects in my garage that frustrate the heck out of me. lol. great video by the way.

[@sartingarage8045]

If Im understanding you correctly Switch is working I'm thinking there is 48 volts to one terminal on switch. When you turn Switch ON , Connects and sends the voltage thru Switch to Second terminal out to whatever it powers.

[@gregwolfe4881]

best video on testing switch I've seen. My old switch was bad, bought a new one and mower still won't do anything, not even the lights will come on with the new switch. Battery was tested and is good, so there also must be some other electrical problem to research

[@sartingarage8045]

Power to the switch comes from. Starter Solenoid. Follow battery positive wire to solenoid. There will be a small wire attached to the same post on solenoid that battery positive goes to. There will be a fuse in this wire also

[@lorinkenfield6937]

@@sartingarage8045 Same problem, Just tested as per your instructions, my key switch on a Cub 1046. The key tests ok. Replaced the Starter Solenoid and still no power when I turn on the key. I checked the fuse. It's good. The red wire coming out of the end of the fuse had broken off. I reattached the wire to the positive red battery cable. Still nothing. Is there a second fuse up behind the steering wheel I'm missing?

[@sartingarage8045]

@Lorin Kenfield On the connector to switch Check the B terminal for battery voltage Test your battery Ground Meter on Ohms One lead on Battery Negative Other lead touch to engine block and other metal to make sure ground is OK If you don't have ground there will be No voltage

[@NotJustBBQLLC]

If you’ve narrowed down everything before the switch for the charging system and the charging terminal check fails would the mower would still start? Assuming you have manually charged the battery to full with a charger.

[@sartingarage8045]

So B terminal on key switch has 12 volt DC to switch, but nothing to voltage regulator DC wire. Most likely will be bad key Switch Could be broken wire, but usually unlikely

[@davidsteinfeld9123]

I may also add the tutorial on this problem and it's corisponding processes is by far clearest I have seen so far I do think a Man with this talent should teach As it was once said to me years ago good correct information is hardest to find half ass truths are everywhere a great reason nothing works anymore just saying 🤣 With people as your self will and can keep us inspired with great tutorial know how

[@moyote53]

I have 2 questions. 1. You say that when I connect A2 to B I should hear a beep. If I don't does that mean the switch is bad? I tested a brand new one and when I connect A2 to B it doesn't beep either. 2. When testing the ignition coil with a multimeter, when the key is off it doesn't beep. That does mean the new ignition switch is bad?

[@sartingarage8045]

@moyote53 Should be A1 to B I will have to check that in Video if I have misspoke Yes on the M to G If Doesn't beep with key off Switch is bad

[@kaliknows8221]

Thank you for taking the time to show this. Your explanation was really simple. The good news is my switch is good. Must be the solenoid.

[@davidevans6072]

Great video for a layman like myself. Thanks.

[@jimhmod]

Again, just what I needed for tommorow.

[@michaelholt4925]

Do you have a video on how to remove and rebuild a head on the Kawasaki FH580V? Get one thing fixed and have another problem. The mower is about 18 years old and have not had any trouble out of it. I did see a mouse run out from under it so there could be a nest on top of the cylinder causing it to run hot. Bent both valves about just alike. Thanks for any help and keep up the videos, they are very informational. Thanks again Michael

[@sartingarage8045]

I do not have a video on rebuilding the cylinder head. Sorry Pull the top shroud off and clean out from under it. Your flywheel helps keep the engine cool. So if a mouse has built a nest under there. The air can't circulate.

[@michaelholt4925]

@@sartingarage8045 Thanks and keep the videos coming!!!

[@michaelholt4925]

Keepem coming and I'll sure keep watching.

[@Dmax04]

Great video. My switch looks just like that one but it doesn't have the L terminal. It has G A1 A2 B M S. Which one would be for the lights? When checking the charging is it A1 or A2 and B? Thanks.

[@sartingarage8045]

Will be connected to A1 or A2 Most likely lights stay on all the time while engine is running

[@basil9934]

Great video on the switch, also learned some settings on my volt meter !

[@MrJake1851]

Excellent Video ! ! Thank you showing how easy it was to check out the Key switch. Trying to remove the actual switch was the hardest thing to do. Good Program

[@bullnibler]

Thank you for making this video, it helps to know how to check the switch and diagnose the bad Solenoid

[@Smalltechguy]

I have one of them older switches. I just bought it new this morning. I've also replaced the solenoid as well. I checked all the grounds and still nothing. I can get the solenoid the click only with direct power. My issue also is the fuse holder. when I put the connector on the left solenoid it blew the fuse. When I change it back, I get nothing. I wish this opposed twin would fit in one of my good frames just to see if the starter will engage. I was able to follow your video though and seems that this switch is good. I have that voltage gage on this 6 prong switch.

[@hungry1011]

Thanks. I think my switch is good. What about the wires going into it?

[@sartingarage8045]

Follow what the terminals are on the switch. B = Battery which actually goes to Solenoid on Battery Post Side of Solenoid. L= Lights And so On

[@albertquick6598]

My husqvarna 48" riding tractor keeps going thru key switches! And it seems to be getting worse I used to replace it once a year now with the mowing season only half over again key switch is shot! It cranks but wont fire! I cant seem to figure out why it keeps happening. Any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you love the channel

[@sartingarage8045]

I think you have other issues, Carburetor problems, ignition Coil Problems, Possibly more major problems that are unlikely, but possible Low compression, Valve adjustment

[@albertquick6598]

@@sartingarage8045 tonight I replace the key switch again it fires right up runs great is it possible the voltage regulator is putting out too much voltage and frying the switch? No continuity between A1 and B also the A1 terminal is a different color than the other terminals. Please let me know your thoughts the carb is new due to ethanol fuel also replaced the head gaskets when I was at it the mower has lots of power and runs great

[@sartingarage8045]

I would definitely test the voltage while engine is running. Should Not be over 15 volts DC. Most common about 13 to 14.5 volts DC. Also make sure your using the correct key for that switch. Wrong key can damage the connections inside the switch

[@paulwall1080]

Yea man awesome job on this thank youuu😊 I'll finally get to use my multimeter after 6 years

[@drs9547]

Thanks for the video - very informative . You might find this interesting. I had a problem with my Craftsman mower with a Kohler Command 17.5 hp engine ( a very good engine) The mower started to get hard to start and after you ran it for a little while and shut it off it would not start unless i sprayed starting fluid into the carb . I believe this started when i discovered mice made a nest under the engine cover. I replaced the spark plug, double checked the ignition coil gap, installed new carb., new fuel line and filter and finally new head gasket. Did not help. Not sure why, out of ideas i guess but i watched your video . I performed your test very carefully and did it twice, it shows the switch is ok . My brother who is a pretty fair mechanic insisted i try to hot wire the switch - i did that and bingo the engine starts just fine, and then it also starts after you run it for awhile just like it should . Installed new switch ( 7 pin sw. ) and problem appears to be solved. This is the second replacement switch in ten yrs - i would think that is abnormal but with the very poor quality of parts now maybe not. If you actually see this after all this time - thanks again, you got me pointed in the right direction.

[@sartingarage8045]

Glad you got it figured out

[@tierneywilson171]

Hello, How are you? Thanks so much for making this video. I have a Snapper Pro Zero Turn Mower. I shipped my wire harness to a guy in Oklahoma for repair. Upon return, the guy in Oklahoma put a note in the box stating that, "Will have to add 1 Red (+Positive) and 1 Green (- Negative) wire to the battery. Diagram does not show how long". How do I go about adding them to the battery? Do I need to run it from somewhere else and hook it to the battery? He didn't give me specific details. Every time I call to try and get in touch with him, his line is always busy. I'm hoping you can help me out. Thank you!

[@sartingarage8045]

Not real sure what he is meaning. But my thoughts are the Red wire would be actually from Battery post side of Starter Solenoid to the B terminal on key switch. The Green wire which he is saying to go to battery I would think should be black as it is ground. Which should also go to key switch to G terminal on key switch. Maybe look in the key switch connector for which wires are missing. The key Switch terminals have letters on them to determine what connects. Match that to the connector side and trace that wire

[@tierneywilson171]

@@sartingarage8045 Thanks for responding so quickly. I'm waiting on some Safety Switch sensors to arrive to see if that is the issue. If not, I will defintely be hitting you back up for your input if you don't mind. I really appreciate you doing this video because you were very detailed and I received so much knowledge from your video unlike other videos I watched on here. Could you please do a video on how to run/install a wire harness on a Zero Turn? I haven't saw a video on that. That's if you ever have the time. Take Care! Thanks again!

[@sartingarage8045]

I'm assuming you have the repaired wiring harness installed. What is the mower not doing Will engine not turn over or ?

[@carltoncroom9006]

Hello, I've been asking you for help on that 74170 toro. You want believe what I fount today. I'd downloaded the Maual and I'd forgotten about it. But I found the wiring schematics of that mower. It shows everything I need to see. Thank you for your help. And I may need help later. But I just wanted to thank you for everything. THANKS, Carlton Croom. If there's anything I can do for you, just let me know!!!!!!

[@josealfaro9514]

Hello sir, maybe you respond I will appreciate it, I have a Craftsman dgs 6500 when I turn SW. On, it blows a 20 amp fuse any idea? Thank you.

[@sartingarage8045]

Most likely shorted in key Switch Here is a Video to test Key Switch kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIDUqJVmgMZ7h6s

[@theeagle4540]

Enjoyed the video, tried testing my switch as you did, I could not get anything when touching B and S and turned to start but nothing happened, parked the mower after mowing and was going to move it but nothing no click, no start. I saw the fuse was blown so I unhooked the clutch, wires to the engine, everything else I could find to unhook but still as soon as I turn on the key it blows the fuse, could this be a short in the switch, lights haven't worked in a while. Don't know where else to check. It will spin the motor if I jump the relay. Thanks

[@sartingarage8045]

First if your not getting anything between B and S terminal on switch. The Switch is defective. B is battery and S goes to starter solenoid. Which is why it wont do Nothing in Start Position. I would replace the switch First.

[@theeagle4540]

@@sartingarage8045 Thanks ordered one see what happens. Appreciate the reply.

[@HaiPham-jz8uu]

@@theeagle4540 i have the same problem, does new switch fix your problem? Thanks

[@sartingarage8045]

You need to test your switch as in this video If your not getting anything between B & S Terminal with Key in start position. Then yes you need a new key switch also

[@stuestrade7494]

Stu Estrade 0 seconds ago I have a Snapper RER Mower 7800920-00 with a 17 hp B&S Intek engine 31C707 603 E1 What non-Snapper product is available for an ignition coil, solenoid, starter, and spark plug is applicable to my mower and engine? Snapper parts are pricey! Thanks

[@lorinkenfield6937]

Excellent teaching! Checked out my LTX 1046 Cub C ignition switch it tested all good. Thanks. I've replaced the starter solenoid switch. While doing the replacement , I noticed the fuse, which was good, had the red wire on one side was hanging free. I reconnected it to the larger red wire coming of the solenoid. Still I have a tractor that does nothing when I turn the key. Is there another fuse behind the steering wheel close to the ignition switch? Any suggestions? Also, do you have another video that would address this problem? Just subscribed . Thanks again, great job!

[@sartingarage8045]

The little red wire you reattached Make sure you attached it to the solenoid post that the battery cable goes to the battery One side of solenoid post goes to starter Other side goes to battery If you connected it to starter side There will be no voltage

[@thunderfoot007]

Great video, there's a few times you said resistance when I believe you meant continuity. Thumbs up and I subscribed :-)

[@sartingarage8045]

Yes Thank you for subscribing

[@proactivelinks8177]

Hello there I have a switch that rings the meter when it in the off position and I get nothing through the coil which everything is new my question is the switch is going to ground? That’s what I think This new switch is on a1973 hodaka 125 wombat Any ideas will be great thanks Ty

[@sartingarage8045]

Ignition Coils are made 2 different ways. Open or Closed Open being ungrounded to spark Closed being Grounded to spark Most are Open Coils If yours is Open Coil Key Switch should be grounded /Buzzing on meter with key in OFF position. This Grounds the coil out and turns engine off. Kills the spark Once key is turned on there should be No Ground or buzzing on meter Which opens the circuit for coil to fire If it's Closed to spark Key switch will be the opposite Just seen this is a motorcycle. Ignition doesn't work exactly the same These Ignition Coils are usually ran with voltage and they depend on a reference of when to fire based on a trigger from usually points and condenser or other component to tell ignition coil the piston is at top dead center. If the reference is not there , Ignition Coil will not fire because it doesn't know when to fire, it's not receiving the signal. I hope this helps

[@bakerman636]

I just subscribed,,, been looking everywhere on how to test this particular switch,,, thanks for the info,,, this was a big help... 👍👍👍

[@sartingarage8045]

Thanks you for Subscribing

[@njf000]

Thank you. Explained it very well and it was a helpful video

[@slimvice9002]

I brought a husqvarna ignition unit with 7 terminals but the plug connector has only 5 to fit in the middle leaving A1 and G terminals expose. When I start the tractor, I also have to turn on the light switch that I assumed are the missing wiring for A1 and G. So when the light switch is off, then that wire must be for A1 and when the light switch is on, then the other wire must be for G(the ground) Is that correct?

[@sartingarage8045]

Did someone change the factory connector from a 7 to a 5 terminal. Or is the 5 pin factory ? I think you may have e the wrong switch. Make sure you look the switch up by your model number

[@slimvice9002]

@@sartingarage8045 Yes, for a Husqvarna YTH2042 it suppose to have that ignition with the 7 terminals just like the sticker between the foot rest. Most of the wiring was already rigged before I brought the tractor. I'm not sure about paying over 80 dollars for a correct wiring harness including the plug for the hour meter because I'm not that the solenoid was bypassed in order for the motor to run.

[@sartingarage8045]

It may be worth the $80 to overcome the trouble your having. Will be hard to explain how to wire the tractor.

[@thomasfrazier969]

It is 9:18 here, I have the letters, b,m,s,y,a,and g on my the back of my ignition switch on my gravely zt 1740. There are actually 7 terminal on the back, b,m,s,y,a,g and it's either an I, or L I'm not sure ?

[@sartingarage8045]

@thomasfrazier969 B= Battery M= Magneto / Ignition Coil S= Starter Solenoid Y= Will most likely be an accessory A= Armature/ Charging System G= Ground That I should be an L L= Lights You can Verify this with a Multimeter Disconnect Battery Put meter on Ohms Match the terminal on key switch to wire you want to test. Let's say your testing lights Match the L to the terminal on connector Put your Red Lead in that L terminal on connector Then take the other lead and go to headlight Unplug and put the other lead in the connector on Non light side. This will help you figure out what Y actually goes to

[@joevonderheide4356]

My Quest has only 5 terminals and none are identified? How do I figure out? Thanks for great info

[@sartingarage8045]

@joevonderheide If you have a metal type key Switch The letters are stamped in the terminal May have to clean them to see the letters

[@joevonderheide4356]

My switch is plastic. W/ stop, run and start. On the back side are 5 terminals. On the side housing …PA66-GF33 and INDAK. ExMark Quest 50”.

[@sartingarage8045]

@joevonderheide4356 Can you get me model # off of it Usually under seat or around the back near engine

[@sartingarage8045]

I'm thinking your switch is the one in this link The Second Picture shows the letters of the terminals. amzn.to/3yw3YqG

[@stephensimmons4583]

The Visio was very helpful if you would use a pointer it would be awesome for with your finger we can’t see exactly what we need to see we have to guess at it.

[@sartingarage8045]

Great Idea ! Thanks

[@jsurges1]

I have an old metal ignition switch that will start the tractor but will not turn it off. I have to cholk the engine to turn it off. Is this a magneto or ignition switch problem?

[@sartingarage8045]

Test the switch M terminal to G terminal M = Magneto / ignition Coil G = Ground If switch test ok Check Ground on G terminal but connector side to Actual Ground. Also Ground wire to ignition coil could be broken or disconnected.

[@jsurges1]

Thanks so much. I really appreciate the help. Great video, I will keep in contact.

[@james-duncan]

Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it. I’m looking to add a led light bar to an Ariens. Currently the tractor has no lights. It has a similar switch as you have in this video. I want to utilize the light position on the switch. Can I use the L and A2 terminals? By the looks of the video I’m sure I can and not mount an additional switch. Also I’m assuming that if during the daytime the lights would be off if the switch is no on the light icon. Thanks

[@sartingarage8045]

Watch my Boss Stereo install on Husqvarna I also added LED lights to it and the video shows you where to connect lights to use key switch. There are 3 parts to video

[@james-duncan]

Sartin Garage thanks I’ll check it out.

[@tonymann9207]

I can’t get fire from the wire that comes from the switch to the voltage regulator when the key is turned on, stater, regulator, and switch all test good,but when I pull the pto switch on it kills the motor?!

[@sartingarage8045]

Test Key Switch Key Switch has battery voltage to it When Key is turned on connects inside Switch to wire that goes to voltage regulator

[@carltoncroom9006]

Also on my toro 74170 how many prongs does it suppose to have to key switch. . I have a five prong plug. My two coils, the wire is not put in. Someone changed key switch and it want cut off by switch anymore..

[@sartingarage8045]

1-543070 is the Toro original Key switch Part number, Maybe wrong switch was installed. M terminal on key switch will go straight to ignition Coil Kill Wire. M terminal connects to G terminal when switch is in off position and kills engine. G is ground

[@carltoncroom9006]

@@sartingarage8045 thanks for help. Appreciate it.

[@carltoncroom9006]

This same B&S engine now has no fire. Because of changing from kawasaki to B&S , the wire colors don't match. I have mess with this thing. It'll have fire and then it don't. I don't know. Can you help me out. Thanks

[@sartingarage8045]

Find the color of wire to ignition Coil or Coils. Connect that wire to the M terminal on key Switch. So if the wire to ignition Coil is Black Wire on M terminal on key switch is Green Connect black wire to the green wire I hope that makes since

[@carltoncroom9006]

Ok thanks. I'll try it. I'll let you know what happens. Thanks

[@carltoncroom9006]

What is a 24hp B&S suppose to charge at ? Thanks

[@sartingarage8045]

B&S have several different charging systems If the engine has voltage regulator then the charging system works the same as kohler or kawasaki. The wires will just be connected different on the regulator. Test AC from two wires coming out from shroud to voltage regulator. Then Single wire for DC voltage.

[@frankdavidson9675]

the craftsman manual shows that switch with all the pins labeled go thru to pages 35 +

[@bwspacity]

Why would my battery wire from key stay at 13v with or without key on.i take it from this my key switch has crapped out.i have 30v at stator

[@ggillman265]

I am getting a beep on M and S with the key in the off position. Is it possible the switch is shorting? In fact, with the key off, I jiggled the wires and the starter engaged and tried to crank the motor. Wierd! No other connections are getting a beep. I assume it is time for a new switch.

[@sartingarage8045]

I would say that switch is faulty

[@jimmy6501]

Hi, my switch has following letters: B, L, M, S, Y, G, A. Would appreciate it if you could tell me how my letters correspond to your letters. Thanks.

[@sartingarage8045]

B= battery + M= magneto/ ignition Coil S= starter Solenoid G= Ground Y , A and L can get confusing L= usually Lights But sometimes will use L for something else like Anti Backfire Solenoid on bottom of Carb. And use Y for Lights Also can be vise Versa A= Accessory or sometimes Amperage Meter.

[@jimmy6501]

@@sartingarage8045 Thanks Much!!!!

[@SparkyJP7]

My switch has a icon of tractor backing up instead of lights icon. Should the test be the same?

[@sartingarage8045]

I'm pretty sure its the same. I don't have one on hand to refresh my memory to test.

[@jamesstanford3264]

Lawn mower is running good but when you engage the blades the lawn mower cuts off what can be the problem

[@randyracos198]

I have a old toro 3650 snowblower,r tek,how do i test the switch before replacement if the coil

[@sartingarage8045]

For the ignition coil circuit on the key switch is terminal M and terminal G on back of switch. Key off should be continuity and Key on should be No reading.

[@cayetanococ7470]

Can you give me a diagram for that ignition letters to where i connect them to the riding mower

[@sartingarage8045]

A1 will go to Voltage Regulator Depending on your Engine Brand will determine what connector it connects to on voltage regulator. B = Battery Which goes to Starter Solenoid Connects to same post Battery positive Cable is connected to on Starter Solenoid. L = Lights Goes to one terminal on headlight Then second terminal on same headlight Jumper wire over to second headlight Last terminal on second headlight goes to ground. M = Magneto / Ignition Coil

[@melindabaskins4775]

I have a Craftsman riding mower and I’m having some issues. It will start when it’s cold or has been sitting. If I turn it off and try to restart it, it won’t do anything. Any suggestions of what it might be?

[@ivonlopez8221]

Thank you for this video. You explained clearly what the switch does. I am still confused in one area, so I apologize if I sound stupid with my questions, but how do you know which two to put the multimeter probes to? For example, I know M & G go together but what about the rest? I have a 7 terminal switch I'd like to test but don't know to which two do I connect the meter probes to or if I turn the key on or off when checking for continuity.

[@sartingarage8045]

B= Battery M= Magneto / Ignition Coil G = Ground Y = Accessory or Sometime Headlights A1 and A2 are Accessory If I remember correctly A1 goes to charging/ voltage regulator

[@randallwordlaw7731]

very good and understandable , thank you

[@Debunderwood]

Excellent video. Although my switch tested fine🙄 Thank you for sharing your knowledge😊

[@davidturnbo1699]

If you getting same reading from battery wire on voltage regulator to frame with keyy off and key on. Im checking 12.6 with key off and when i thurn key on its the same.

[@Lovinflyindrones2022]

I just found ur channel. I wonder if u could maybe do a video on basic to moderately complex electrical systems like on a mower. I kinda know how it works but need a lot more training like how does a ground work. How do they wire all the safety switches with everything else and it works. Thanks for sharing your knowledge

[@sartingarage8045]

William I do have some videos on Ground But I will most definitely make some more on this information. I work a full time job 12 hour shift 5 6 and sometimes 7 days a week. So it may be a bit before I can create one.

[@Lovinflyindrones2022]

@@sartingarage8045 ok I sure do appreciate what you've done and will do in the future. Thanks very much. What's your first name

[@sartingarage8045]

Chris

[@cayetanococ7470]

A2 connect to which part of the mower?

[@sartingarage8045]

A1 or A2 = A is meaning Accessory Usually A1 is Charging A2 is used for different things depending on your mower. Just follow the wire that is connected to A2 on switch Follow where it goes from Key switch

[@cayetanococ7470]

Great and thanks for your help. Will subscribe more for your channels

[@nhoffman1987]

I have a 3y/o Cub Cadet XT1 with the Kohler SV540 engine. I've had a slight charging issue since new where after weeks or months the battery will get weak, hard start then eventually the clicking. Originally I thought maybe someone left the lights on or just a bad OE battery. Fast forward to the next mowing season (last year), I put a new Interstate 375CCA battery in it. Made it to fall and the issue happened again. Now to today, battery tested good, stator output tested good and the voltage regulator to battery tested good. But one thing I noticed was the voltage regulator battery wire/terminal tested identical volts as the battery regardless if the ignition switch was in the on or off position. With this switch having the reverse safety and all that on it should it be showing 0 at the voltage regulator while in the off position? Thanks!

[@sartingarage8045]

Should be No Voltage with Key off Remove key Switch and test it I will do a video really soon on How to Test for Voltage Draw on Battery with Key off very soon. It is one of the coolest Tricks for this very problem. This video will help you easily figure it out if its Not Key Switch. But usually the power to that charging wire comes from the key switch. And the key switch is at fault

[@nhoffman1987]

Sartin Garage do you have any advice on getting the switch out? I started working on pulling the dash and gas tank but it got dark. Do these need to be removed or is there a way to get it out of the dash without disassembly? TY

[@sartingarage8045]

@@nhoffman1987 Some Key switches are easily removed. Some are not so easy. If it is the plastic switch. There is a tab on the top and bottom of switch. Push down the tab and push the switch out toward the front of dash. Same for other tab being careful not to latch the other tab back. Getting to the Key Switch is different on every mower made. So without seeing your setup. Would be hard to explain

[@sartingarage8045]

@@nhoffman1987 I just looked up pictures of your exact mower. Looks like that one the gas tank is completely blocking any access to the key switch. I have to say I have never repaired a Xt1. I cant tell you how it comes apart. Sorry

[@nhoffman1987]

@@sartingarage8045 I got the switch out for testing. With the key in the off position I was getting readings at M & G, M & A1, and G & A1. Do any of these indicate the switch is the source of my issue? Thanks again.

[@bwspacity]

You are the man.❤

[@mlm7598]

Thank you so so much for this video. I hope this works on our key switch. Much appreciated!

[@zacherymaneval6673]

What would cause my starter not to disengage? I just did this test and the switch is good.

[@sartingarage8045]

When you say engaged Starter stays spinning the engine Or starter Gear just stays up If engine keeps turning over Replace starter solenoid If the gear just stays up This sometimes will happen if engine doesnt start. But if the gear stays up while engine is running. I would replace abbendix kit

[@zacherymaneval6673]

When I try to start it, the gear goes up and stays engaged with the fly wheel. Im don't even get a full revolution.

[@mdunbar6187]

you stated A-1 to B for charging then you stated A-2 to B for charging. Whats up?

[@sartingarage8045]

M Dunbar On this paticular Switch A1 to B is the connection for Charging

[@chasechase7036]

I have a starter switch that has R B S A and the 5th pin doesn’t have any letter next to it I’m trying to fine the Magnito and ground

[@sartingarage8045]

Use a multimeter Disconnect Ground on Battery Meter on ohms preferable with buzzer One lead in the connection to Magneto Then use the other lead to probe connector to key switch. Once you find that connection in connector Match that connection to switch

[@KNARF1]

Thanks..appreciate the effort. Very Helpful.

[@thecuttingforce]

Subed your videos helped me out .. least I can do thanks. Thought I had a had stator ...

[@davidwarner5717]

Can you show me other side the colors

[@sartingarage8045]

I can , But depending on your manufacturer of Mower, They will use different color wires. So may not help you Best thing to do is take a continuity test Pull wire off of component say voltage regulator put one lead in that end Then put other lead in each terminal of key switch connector. Meter on Ohms or Buzzer works better. Disconnect battery before starting this test.

[@paulmelanson1527]

Hello I have a 7 prong metal ignition switch for a craftsman 12.5 hp lawn tractor. The letters are A Y G M L B S. the lights don't work but I have continuity from A to L. I was wondering what Y does. It's a 3 position switch, on the console How do I send a picture. PAT. No. 3497644 Others pend

[@steveginder436]

Excellent!!!

[@adrianwillis3580]

Great job very well done

[@sagesenteno133]

Research led me here🙏 fresh battery won't even turn over I'm thinking it the ignition switch

[@sartingarage8045]

Engine won't turn over could be a number of things, Key Switch, Brake Switch, Blade Engage Switch, Starter Solenoid, to name a few. I would test key switch first Then a easy test to see if starter Solenoid is possibly bad. There will be either one small wire or two small wires on bottom of starter Solenoid. With key in start position should be battery voltage to the one wire or on one of the two wires if your solenoid has two. Also make sure your grounded good. There is a video for testing ground connections on my channel.

[@sagesenteno133]

@@sartingarage8045 it ran last year it was cover with tarp!!. I tested switch but my multimeter is cheap and doesn't beep like yours it would flash couple high numbers then go right back to 1 on the screen... nothing has been tampered with just wonder if condensation is a factor also in those parts you mentioned failing(solenoid and ig switch etc)

[@sartingarage8045]

I would invest in a bit better meter at least one with a beeper.

[@sagesenteno133]

@@sartingarage8045 🙏 thank you master for your wisdom..

[@Mike-su8si]

Mines a cheap all metal brand the only plastic one I have is on the John deere

[@sartingarage8045]

There will still be letters on the back of switch, Sometimes on the terminal themselves or on the switch at bottom of each terminal.

[@Mike-su8si]

@@sartingarage8045 there is. I have a big battery charger I could test it with and other mowers I could test it on if the wire plug in was the same Lowes sells the switch I'm needing. i haven't bought it yet because i been looking over the wiring i was trying to see how did the blue and red melt a little so those 2 are melted into the black wiring plastic what you plug into the switch

[@Mike-su8si]

@@sartingarage8045 the switch might be good then it might not it is old and full of rust the guy we bought the mower from always kept it parked outside

[@sartingarage8045]

You can test the metal switch with a Multimeter. Put meter on Ohms. Depending on which switch you have You will test terminals B to S with key in start position M to G with key off L to B with key on or in Light position Depending on what your problem is May need to do other test to switch

[@sartingarage8045]

Yeah that's Not Good If it's rusted up I would probably just replace it to prevent future problems

[@williamdavis9943]

What is the "Y" terminal used for?

[@sartingarage8045]

I am not 100% sure about this, But I believe the Y is for the headlights. I believe the Y actually means the connection splits two ways from the stator or voltage regulator. One to the headlights other to charge battery. One way to find out for sure is to follow the wire that connects to the terminal Y and see where the wire goes

[@Hero1957]

Thank you

[@michaelholt4925]

My Ferris keeps blowing charging system fuse when i turn the key on.

[@sartingarage8045]

@michaelholt4925 Most of the time this will be a short in wiring to ground or defective key switch. This Video doesn't show how to test key switch for a short. But basically you test the same way as in this video, but say when your checking your charging side of key switch, rather than just check A1 to B terminals. You want to check all the terminals. Connect one lead to A1 and the other to all other terminals on switch, You should only have continuity thru A1 and B, So if you do this and you have continuity between A1 , B and G. That switch is shorted to ground. And also your wiring and connections may be different. and to figure this out Disconnect Battery Remove output wire from Voltage Regulator Put one lead of meter in this wire And at the key switch use the other lead to find which terminal your connects to on key switch. Another short test to Disconnect Battery Connect one lead to single wire on voltage regulator Other lead to ground Turn key on If meter beeps then you have short to ground. Make sure Battery is disconnected or you will damage your meter.

[@michaelholt4925]

@@sartingarage8045 Thanks

[@shogun678]

Awesome video man 👌

[@bernardpnicolau2211]

I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower kzbin.infoUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!

[@davidentrekin190]

I check my switch with you my is not cutting off went I turn my off

[@MS-xj2xs]

At 7:17 you say “connect to A2” ... I think you meant to say “A1”. Thanks for the great video though!

[@sartingarage8045]

I did. Sorry

[@ChillaKaya]

hello how are you

[@sartingarage8045]

Im good How are you

[@ChillaKaya]

Sartin Garage I am trying to install a new key switch not going so well ! Any advice .. don’t I just plug in the new one

[@sartingarage8045]

@@ChillaKaya Yes as long as its the correct Key Switch Look up your make and Model number of your equipment. There will be a part number for your exact key switch You then will be able to unplug old one Then just connect new one

[@sartingarage8045]

@@ChillaKaya If you would like Give me your Make and Model Number and I will look key switch up for you and send you a part number

[@ChillaKaya]

@@sartingarage8045 ok so model number is 937748

[@jimcantu1487]

👍👍👍👍👍

[@elainegergely5769]

*Built well, **Bestfor.Garden** also recommend plugged right into my rider 4500 series. Was short the rubber cap key and was was sent right out in the mail. Just ordered another ignition switch for my 6500 rider.*

[@Mike-su8si]

I don't have no meter

[@paulettepier5526]

Will someone PLEASE show a video on How to remove a key switch??!! (for us "gals"

[@sartingarage8045]

Paulette Pier What Mower do you have

[@sartingarage8045]

I will try to make a video this week on How to remove key Switch. If it is this same switch that is in the video. On the back side of switch there are 2 Tabs exactly straight across from each other. Another words if you had the switch in your hand there will be a tab on right side and the left. Push one tab in as you push up on switch at the same time. Switch will come up just about eighth of an inch. Then do other side tab being careful not to latch the side you just got loose to latch back

[@paulettepier5526]

@@sartingarage8045 It's an older model of Troy Built Bronco the brake & accel are on on the same side..

[@sartingarage8045]

If it is the same switch in this test video There are two Tabs on the switch Lift hood and reach under dash and on the top and bottom there is a tab Push the tab down with a screwdriver while pushing out on the switch The switch comes out the front of dash The tabs are on the back of dash

[@sartingarage8045]

Paulette Pier if it is an older tractor it may have the old style switch If its plastic it is described in previous comment I sent to remove it If it is a Metal or aluminum key switch it will have a Nut on top. Just remove the nut and Switch will come out from back side of dash. NOTE: Sometimes this Nut is covered by a rubber cap. The key goes thru this rubber Cap. Pry the rubber cap off with a screwdriver. You will then see the Nut

[@shannonbrooks8834]

I put a gun too my head during this presentation.....

[@lesstime1678]

for meter's ,,,fluke ,,,for Knockout Punch's klein and greenlee ,,,,not meter's please,,,

[@sartingarage8045]

So do I need to name every brand of multimeter they make. Fluke, Craftsman, Klein, Ames, Performance Tool, GB, Can-Tech , Brymon, Greenlee, just to name a few. Not everyone even knows what a fluke is There all multimeters with a different brand. Doesnt matter what brand you use as long as its decently accurate and has AC & DC capabillity. Just trying to understand where your coming from

[@stephensimmons4583]

Thank you