How To Split Your Beehive With Queen Cells

[@veragiles981]

Thanks for such a clear video. Now I need to check my hives for capped honey frames acting like a follower board!! Live and learn!

[@robcrickett]

Just brilliant Lawrence. I have made your underfloor entrances for our hives here in the monastery, and also I loved your magnifying of the cells and eggs-embryo in another clip of yours. Your teachings are soooo good!

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Ah thanks Rob! You have made my day :D

[@danielharvey8551]

Exceptional content, great. Following you from the US, I live on Lake Superior getting ready for winter. Techniques you demonstrate in beekeeping are global. Thank you

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Thanks Daniel. Really appreciate the kind comments :)

[@beebob1279]

Excellent demonstration

[@philipbarker7672]

Nice one Lawrence brilliant as always

[@ordinaryguy6869]

Great instructional video. Thank you.

[@robertfranc2365]

Absolute gold. Well done mate.

[@wes3479]

Great video. I have known this to be called a walk away split. I’m in the US. I just did this to 3 of my hives last week.

[@JohnStraussmusic]

That was a great video - thanks for sharing

[@eternall87]

what a star you are mate! this video has given me the solution I was looking for! love your accent too! haha

[@chrissteinbacher6552]

Excellent video from a fellow 🐝 keeper in North Carolina! I enjoy learning from 🐝 keepers from around the world.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Thanks for watching! Hope you bees are doing well

[@ericbussert8170]

Excellent, I had to do something similar here today as well. Your stream apiary sounds like a good place relax after working your bees.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

It's a really lovely spot!

[@TalRohan]

I like it...nice and simple , no complicated stuff and succinct. Great video.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Thanks for the feedback. Glad you enjoyed the video.

[@razaullah4261]

Plz your mobile no

[@grahamkingsland]

Great video. I am quite new to all this so following with interest. Lots to learn!

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Thanks Graham. Glad you enjoyed it

[@JOSIANGREENVLOGS]

Very useful video.Expect more such videos

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Sure 👍

[@seanloughranent]

Great video. Could you have kept the old queen in the original hive and moved over the queen cell frame

[@Shakingstevesallotment]

Good video, I however do it slightly differently, move queen and frame of food,and new frames, I dont give brood, as they dont take brood in a normal swarm

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Probably 100 different ways to do it ;) Your way sounds great too! I always give any artificial swarm brood as it means they are effectively 3 weeks ahead of a broodless swarm. No harm in not giving it though :)

[@SageandStoneHomestead]

We moved over capped brood in our simulated swarm to help the new colony with population density.

[@shaungell4032]

Where did you buy the Nucs from? Are those deep brood frames?

[@armanbarasjid4932]

Do virgin queen mate inside the box or it have to be outside to mate?

[@gino2465]

Question : when you take the nuc 3 miles away to you block there entrance for a few hours or just leave as normal.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Leave as normal when you move 3plus miles

[@stradz9564]

Please answer. Is it needed to take the new hive that far. Or can I keep it beside the before hive! Like feww metres away. Please answer

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Live Q and A Comments Stream - 11th Feb

[@richdaly8756]

Thank you

[@timhull8664]

How long do you leave the colony in the nuc before you transfer to a normal hive.. can you do it straight away?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Yeah you can do it straight away. Just dummy down the hive to suit

[@strugglingbeekeepermarkcot9642]

Great video I am going to do a split today. Very informative video.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Cheers Mark. Hope is goes well. Great time to do a split!

[@booboo747]

When do you transfer from nuc to hive please ?

[@MrJeepmarine]

Thanks!!!

[@davidgarner3171]

Thanks, a nice clearly presented video. Is there any chance that the original hive would produce more Queen cells? Or had the queen already stopped laying and so no eggs young enough?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Thanks David. Highly unlikely they will create emergency cells as they already have a cell to feed. If they do, the first virgin that is a week ahead, will dispatch them all. I always just leave them but you could go back and knock down any additional cells that are formed after 3/4 days. I wouldn't go I'm after the first virgin emerges though

[@davidgarner3171]

@@BlackMountainHoney Thanks. That makes a lot of sense. Hope you have a good season

[@paulmarshall8630]

what if you haven't got a second apiary to take the nuc to?

[@sarahwalters6979]

What if you dont have another apiary to take the nuc to?

[@clarabelbee]

Thanks, this is a great video. Do you have to move the nuc more than 3 miles? just wondering as lots of the bees will be nurse bees would they be ok in the same apiary but a different position? And then would they orientate to the new position or would they still fly back?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

I always recommend 3 miles away as it means you dont need to balance the hives any more and can judge the amount of bees at the first pass. In the same apiary, it can work but you always end up with loads of drift and uneven splits. Much better to move them away and bring them back if you can.

[@richardevans7248]

Beekeeping blacks an your right no need to move miles away leaving in same yard is fine all field bees will have flown back home before lid is put on leaving queen an nurse bees only moving is fine also should you want to build up more yards

[@joshuasherrin9238]

Thank for this one. I was taught to leave the queen in the original place so that field bees returned to her and then remove and take all over frames / bees away (as as you did but reverse the boxes). Any harm or better outcome doing it either way? Thanks

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Either way is fine. It doesnt make a massive difference. As long as the boxes are balances with bees, brood and queen/cells then you will be fine.

[@paulironmonger5430]

Hi Laurence, another superb video thank you very much. I’ve had a 5 frame nuc in a standard brood box for 2 weeks. Did weekly inspection today expecting to think of adding super, but found 2 queen cells filled with royal jelly (couldn’t see any larvae) which took me by surprise. I have 4 full frames of brood in all stages, 2 full frames of stores, 2 newly drawn frames and 2 undrawn. Because I saw queen, I knocked down the q cells. Not sure where to go with this (new keeper), hence found the vid really informative. Could you please advise me? Thank you. Paul

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Hi Paul. If it were me, I would have pulled them down and monitored going forward. Doesnt sound like they were trying to swarm but it's not unheard of before they fill the box.

[@robharry4848]

Hi Lawrence. I have just done this type of manipulation on a hive that was about to swarm. However, I don’t have another apiary at a separate site. The nuc is 3 yards away from the original hive. Is this a problem? What do I need to look out for, or do if so?

[@EllieHeard]

Do you have to take the nuc so far away, or was that just what you happened to do here?

[@TheDanspence]

Off toplic, but, if and when you oxalic acid vape your swienty hives. Does the vape fit through the entrance? I have a swienty 14x12, and they are bee space entrances.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Yeah the outlet fits through fine. Its about 5mm and the entrance is 8mm. You need to seal around the entrance though as a lot can escape. I use a foam bung.

[@TheDanspence]

Great, thanks for that. Also use foam to reduce the entrance if wasps are an issue?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Yes you can do but I find they can protect the Swienty floors quite well if up to strength

[@dennistaylor7653]

If you were to shake more bees into the queen-rite box, could you take that hive to a closer yard (vs 3 mile)?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Ive shaken a FULL box in before and tried to leave in the same apiary and EVERY bee went back. Its hit and miss. Much better taking them away to a new site

[@remyd2130]

hello, and thanks for this video! Question which beehive format do you use? Thank you! Remy from France.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Hi Remy. I am on the national format

[@remyd2130]

@@BlackMountainHoney ok thanks!👍

[@howardmcadams3852]

Thanks Sir

[@BlackMountainHoney]

All the best

[@stevenedwards4371]

Hi Make a NUC lets say in May, what time of the year would you move it to a permanent hive tx

[@BlackMountainHoney]

I'd go once it's covering 5 frames of bees in a 6 frame nuc

[@teachbearcop]

What if I don't have a second apiary? Can I still do this?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Yes a lot of flying bees will return to the original hive. Stuff some loose grass in to the entrance to confuse them a bit ;)

[@danielwagner6290]

You forgot to mention where you put the the new box? Do you leave it there or move it somewhere else and where? How far away?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Apologies. Thought I mentioned it. Needs to go to a new apiary IDEALLY. Around 3 miles away minimum. Can do it in the same apiary but I would use a different method for that

[@TheFixIsIn-fe1jy]

You shouldn't be turning the queen cells sideways, you should keep them upright so you don't drown them, keep the cell upright at all times, you don't want to kill the cell before you get it split.

[@jamestownsendjrtbees3226]

Thanks for all the videos, very helpful. When you remove the queen from a large production colony and let them raise a new queen does it reduce honey production or will they carry-on like normal?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

NP James. Depends on when you do it, but it most instances, Yes, it reduces honey production. There is normally a 3 - week lag though until you see numbers start to reduce if you just remove the queen.

[@jamestownsendjrtbees3226]

@@BlackMountainHoney I figure it's either pull a split with the queen when queen cells show up or they swarm. I am assuming if they swarm honey production would be even less than the split? I have tried buying in queens to introduce back into the big mother hives but it doesn't always work for me and now I have to try to find another queen cell from another colony or just eggs and that slows the process down. I am going to try to keep the queens in their boxes this spring and just pull splits with the queen cells to knock them back and try to stay on top of more queen cells, plus lots of space. Thanks for your time.

[@loamette]

About how long should I leave the nuc at the far apiary if I don't have a permanent place to leave them? I'm still finding that if I ask people if I can leave bees on their property, they always want honey as payment. :( I'm just starting out, and only using feral bees. So I won't be getting gallons of honey any time soon!

[@BlackMountainHoney]

At least 1 round of brood, so min 3 weeks, some will return to the old location but after 3 weeks it will be minimal.

[@loamette]

@@BlackMountainHoney Thanks so much!! I love your videos!

[@BlackMountainHoney]

@@loamette Glad to hear it! 👂🙏

[@arronbwabw504]

I have 3 swarm cells, what am I looking for when you speak about the "best" cell?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Preferably open. Largest, longest, most royal jelly, dimpled, nice position on frame so can be protected

[@arronbwabw504]

@@BlackMountainHoney thank you for such a quick reply 👍

[@Makermook]

Do you feed the nuc for a while since there aren't many foragers bees in it?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Depends on the weather. As long as you move the splits away you cab make an even split. Once a round of brood emerges the number of bees is boosted. Can feed 1:1 syrup if you want to strengthen the queen right half of the split

[@gimmieshelter1597]

Hello...a vídeo to explain to make a Split un the same apiari? Sorry for my ENG. Cheers from Spain..

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Will do. Its on my list :)

[@garyhofer8405]

Aren't they just super seeding, since the queen cells are on top, I thought swarm cells are on the bottem

[@BlackMountainHoney]

No that's a common myth. Its all about the number of cells. 1 cell = supersedure Any more than one, its swarming.

[@cornerslice]

You gotta keep the frames tightly next to each other to avoid extra comb build up.

[@patdwyer6274]

Original hive will now make emergency cells alongside the cell you left. When the queen emerges from that cell she will swarm leaving lots of those sealed emergency cells in the hive to cast swarms too. You need to go back 6 days after this video and breakdown the emergency cells leaving only your chosen cell to emerge.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Yes - this is true Pat. We always go back round for a clean up after knocking back. I have included this on future videos :D

[@KayAteChef]

Recky... Squaddie identified.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

I'm very confused 😕

[@KayAteChef]

@@BlackMountainHoney Squaddie unidentified.

[@jamescurtis6682]

How successful are you using this method?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Its really dependent on the weather. This year in the UK all of these splits would have failed. We tend to make splits with mated queens now

[@veganactivist8860]

why did he say make sure the wheel is closed

[@bradgoliphant]

My goodness. I would be fully suited up with those agressive bees as well. Why are they so testy? Have you tried re-queening? Are they Russians or are you working with Africanized bees?

[@BlackMountainHoney]

This a production apiary where we bred from the best honey producers over temperament. Still some legacy stock left over there. Since moving to grafting from an F0 breeder queen, the different is quite remarkable. 👌

[@loamette]

He also mentioned he never smokes. Is there a reason for this? I've heard it does cause the bees to start to gorge on honey, that seems like it would set them back a bit.

[@BlackMountainHoney]

@@loamette I have actually reverted to smoking now. Especially for videos. Just makes for calmer bees and nicer videos. 👌

[@bradgoliphant]

@@BlackMountainHoney I agree with using smoke. There is a reason it has been used by beekeepers all over the world for hundreds of years. Yes, I agree it does cause bees to gorge on honey, but not the entire hive and not always. If you use smoke correctly, like only puffing twice right in-front of the hive, and a couple time on top of the hive, what you are doing is blocking out any alarm pheromones. This is the reason bees seem calmer. And it's helpful for both bees and beekeeper. TIP: Try not to angle your smoker downward into the top of the hive. Just puff smoke over the top of the frames. This way it does not get down in where the queen is. Thanks everyone.

[@roystheboy]

you have 3 of this same video in the play list

[@BlackMountainHoney]

Hmm. That's strange. I dont make playlists but assign each video to one. Ill take a look. Cheers Roy.

[@leandrozuniga5634]

Why are those bees so agressive?

[@knifeblanksaustralia]

those bees look really pissed off.

[@TH-cl5be]

so was the poor performance of the hive down to the old queen

[@222boneal]

If she makes it back from her mating flight that is!

[@patrickbodenham6879]

you've only got one brain of food ... frame of brood. need lunch

[@keithsteele5580]

They are supercedure cells not swarm cells

[@BlackMountainHoney]

I have never bought into the position of cells theory and go by the number. There were 7-8 cells in this colony, therefore in my mind they were trying to swarm. If there is only 1 cell, then regardless of position, I take that as a supercedure.