How to spread thinset for tile

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How to spread thinset for tile. Ceramic, porcelain, marble, travertine or any kind of tile need to be installed on an even well applied bed of thinset. To achieve this there are a few steps that I find helpful to always get a suitable bed of thinset for the tile. First all debris contaminants etc. must be removed from the area to be tiled, in other words the area must be clean. It is always important to "key" the thinset into the substrate; this is achieved by using the flat side of the trowel to press and spread the thinset into the surface. This does make a difference and this step should not be skipped. Once the thinset is keyed, it is time to spread the thinset to cover the area to be tiled, first just spread the thinset out over the area, do not at this point try to get an even coverage of thinset, and just spread the thinset over the area. Once this is done, it is time to "Comb" the thinset to an even, consistent, uniform bed. The trowel lines should always go in the same direction without swirls or comb lines crossing. This may seem unimportant, but a uniform bed of thinset with lines all going in the same direction will help achieve maximum coverage on the back of the tile.
All tile installed by Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area. This video contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you click on the product link.
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[@rodgerq]

How do you work so cleanly? I mean, I'm just a diyer but bloody hell, as soon it's mixed I've got up on my clothes, on my face, up my arms, SOMEHOW, it just manages to travel everywhere 🤣

[@aportman58]

Sal, you rock on everything you do regarding tile installation! I enjoy watching your instructional videos and have learned a plethora of information!

[@SalDiBlasi]

😊

[@michaeljones1410]

Love the final look at how the professional's work. Very nice. Thanks.

[@maryc8070]

Worth a thousand words.......thanks for sharing! Well done.

[@SalDiBlasi]

One more word, Thanks.

[@fasteddie8782]

Thanks Sal learnt so much from your videos you are a tile expert No Doubt. Thank you

[@SalDiBlasi]

I appreciate that!

[@fasteddie8782]

I JUST BOUGHT A NICE WETSAW ...NEED GLOVES WHEN GROUTIN FOR SURE..YOU WERE RIGHT DOUES NUMBER ON BARE SKIN...I GOT GLOVES NOW. TILE SAW VAPER AINT BEST EITHER..TASTED TILE FOR A WEEK AFTER...NEED TO CUT TILE OUTSIDE OR A DIFFERENT ROOM..SCHOOL OF HARD KNOCKS..CONSTRUCTION WORKER ALL LIFE..BUT NEW TO TILE LOT TO KNOW..

[@fasteddie8782]

Thanks again

[@katlincota7165]

Thanks man, your a boss!

[@peterschenck4067]

Sal, I love watching your videos; they are all very educational. I have a genuine question regarding uncoupling membranes... I see you applied the thin set and tile directly over concrete (I'm assuming that this is a residential job and in the basement or other slab-on-grade installation). How do you decide when you need an uncoupling membrane and when you do not? I will be perfectly up front and admit that I have not purchased the TCNA Handbook yet, so if it is covered in there, I apologize for the uneducated question. Thanks!

[@SCU3A_S7EVE]

I think two years is the expiration date for KZbin comments, so to answer your question: you want to use an uncoupling membrane on any surface that you expect might crack as a result of settling over time (like slab foundation) or shrink/expand as a result of temperature and humidity change (like wood subfloor). The membrane is flexible and allows for a minor amount of movement to occur underneath that otherwise would have been transferred to the rigid mortar and tile above, likely resulting in cracks along your grout lines and/or buckling that cracks the tiles themselves. I assume Sal, a seasoned professional, is installing this tile on a crack-resistant surface, otherwise this video would be a great Exhibit A for the client’s lawyers.

[@nholt]

My legs are so sore from being down in that position doing my laundry room tile. How do you combat that?

[@askthisoldtileman5401]

Hey sal, if you look at the dry wall section at home-depot they have a scoop that really works well in getting out the thinset. Hope it helps. Keep up good work. I have been doing this since 1978 , and still like seeing good quality work. And take pride in what they are doing.

[@SalDiBlasi]

I will check it out, Thanks.

[@xaljaruno]

You make it look so easy, Sal! Haha, you should have seen me struggling with my not-nearly-wet-enough mortar yesterday. Question, if you have time: I will be hanging 12x24 8mm porcelain tile on a surround this weekend--what kind of consistency should I be looking for when I mix the LFT mortar?

[@SalDiBlasi]

best thing to do is see what the bag says for the amount of water. in any case it needs to be able to hold a notch without slumping, i like more on the looser side.

[@brandonday9324]

Hey Sal if I have a uneven floor and was using self leveling, would it be best to then use ditra for my underlayment

[@erickramer3050]

TCNA 100%. Sal is the real deal.

[@SalDiBlasi]

Thanks for watching my video.

[@Amopower]

In the first part of the video when you were laying thinset on top of the Ditra, I guess that was for the tile...but the part where you secured the Ditra to the floor with thinset, that was before the video started, right? thanks for posting, learn alot!

[@SalDiBlasi]

I installed the ditra the day before. I had some thinset left over, so I used it up by prefilling the ditra. You can see some of the dried thinset in the video.

[@ourminihomestead]

Thank you so much for all the info and videos. I am DYIer for my shower and I have one Q. I am tiling the shower walls with 12 x 24 Porcelain and using ProLite Custom Building Products thin set for large tile. I am finding that my thin set thickens is coming to 5/8" thick. is that too much thin set? thanks a lot, I learned a lot form your videos.

[@SalDiBlasi]

Bottom of the first page on the right "Non-slip, non-slump for heavy floor and wall tile and stone installation up to 3/4" (19 mm) thick " www.custombuildingproducts.com/TDS/TDS-114.pdf

[@pingpong9656]

When I spread the thinset, I always get a thin amount at the beginning of the stroke - it's like the first two three inches of the strip get dragged along - then I have to go add more thinset and redo. I tried slightly thinner and stiffer thinset mixes, but it just does - is there some additive that makes it go more smoothly?

[@SalDiBlasi]

Apply more than you need, spread it out and then comb the ridges to the correct depth.

[@christinadrinkwater1322]

Hey Sal, I love you and your videos. What thinset would you recommend to use over Ditra with 12 by 12 glazed porcelain? I’m not going to use the schluter thinset....what other kind do you like best for a project like this? Thanks again for empowering me to redo my bathrooms.

[@christinadrinkwater1322]

I’m gonna use Tec uncoupling membrane mortar I think...

[@SalDiBlasi]

Tec uncoupling is good, so is Bostick Ditraset, has to be a premium unmodified if you don't use schluter thinset

[@christinadrinkwater1322]

Cool, thanks for the help!

[@jamesstufano1504]

Hey Sal. Getting back to your videos as a refresher for myself as I take on another tile floor home project. I wanted to ask you if you like spreading thinset with a float on top of Ditra XL ? For example I spread ALLSet thinset on the wood subfloor and roll out the DitraXL then press down the Ditra with a wooden flat float tool. I like to then take ALLSet that is left over and rubber float over the ditra holes and let it harden. It creates more of a flat surface for the next step of spreading out thinset for tile and buttering. The tiling is the hard part and I think filling it in ahead makes it a little easier on the large tile step. Do you do this ... hoping for your thoughts.

[@SalDiBlasi]

Not usually, I will use up left over thinset, but I feel it is pointless to add an extra step by filling all the ditra letting it dry and then spreading it again to set the tile. I do however know many tile guys that like to pre fill.

[@mzdznugz7365]

Hi Sal, would you back butter ceramic wall tile 9x12? Thanks

[@SalDiBlasi]

+Desiree Williams yes, the only tiles i don't back butter are the very small ones like subway tile or 6" tiles.

[@mzdznugz7365]

Thxs, what size trowel would you recommend for 9x12 ceramic wall tile?

[@SalDiBlasi]

Desiree Williams 1/4x3/8 inch

[@paulchristiansen8554]

hey Sal DiBlasi i just did my first tile job which was about 1000sq ft of 6x36 wood looking tile and unfortunately i got a decent amount of thinset on the top of the tile, i was able to get all the big chucks off by lightly using a floor scraper but there still is a white residue in all the spots the thinset was, probably because its in the texture of the tile, what would you recommend doing to get it off? if tried using a swiffer steamer and the abrasive side of the sponge but it bearly comes off, just wondering if there was a trick of the trade to get it off easy.

[@paulchristiansen8554]

also because it took me awhile to lay all the tile the thinset sat on the tile for atleast a week, in hindsight i should have cleaned the tile as soon as i was done for the day

[@SalDiBlasi]

Try white vinegar and water ratio of 1:1 but first try on a scrap piece of tile to make sure it does not damage it. Then try straight vinegar if the diluted one does not work. next step is Sulfamic acid amzn.to/2vC54Ty CLR might work. Always test before proceeding. Note: Natural stone will be etched by these, but porcelain should be safe.

[@KBWheelin]

What size trowel would u recommend for a 10x14 ceramic tile

[@gbengoosewuru4139]

Is that pre-mixed mortar or did you mix it yourself for those lft's? I'm having a hard time find lft premixed mortar.

[@SalDiBlasi]

Pre-mixed mortar is junk, don't use it. It is just mastic with sand.

[@richardmckrell4899]

Sal, do you ever do a dry pack mortar base over an entire floor, like over concrete in a basement, if you need to level or change the height by a few inches?

[@SalDiBlasi]

I have not done that in many years, but you would do a bonded mud floor over concrete, a lot of work, and old school.

[@richardmckrell4899]

I was thinking of unbounded over concrete with a cleavage membrane (plastic maybe). I need the basement slab about 3 inches higher. I thought I might try to screed an area with a 5 to 1 dry mix. Just a thought.

[@seansmith720]

What size notched trowel do you use for 18x18 tile...thx

[@SalDiBlasi]

1/4x1/2x1/4 or 1/2x1/2x1/2

[@jtoker9758]

Hey sal, you ever make any cream cheese icing and wish it was the consistency of some thinset? LOL I'm new to tiling, just doing my bathroom, and everytime I spread the thinset, I'm like, "Damn this would be the perfect consistency for some cream cheese icing".

[@littlebeebs1]

My boyfriend and I are installing 12x24 tiles with the Spin Doctor System . He only trowels one tile’s worth of mortar at a time because we are moving pretty slowly . Is that ok to trowel that way instead of at least troweling a nice row and then laying the tiles into it ? To me it seems to offer less coverage under each tile at the corners because the Spin Doctor bases get in the way . He thinks everything is fine because he is back buttering the tiles

[@SalDiBlasi]

Recommended coverage for a dry aea is 80%, as long as you are getting that you should be fine. Back buttering helps with transfer, it does not ensure coverage. if you can still see ridges when you pull up a tile to check for coverage, then you are not collapsing the ridges of the mortar when you set the tile.

[@littlebeebs1]

Thank you so much Sal ! We’ve pulled tiles up and had zero ridges . The only problem we’ve had is that I couldn’t feel mortar under a couple of corners when I inserted the Spin Doctor bases . I was just concerned there might be voids under the corners , causing breakage in those particular corners down the road . We pulled one tile up because of that and it broke due to having so much suction created by collapsing our trowel lines . Thank you so much for doing these videos ! I’ve learned so much from you . We learned how to use the Spin Doctors thanks to you as well 😊

[@arthur962]

I notice that you mix your thinset pretty loose. Not sure if it's just the video or not. Is there a reason or just a personal preference? I myself tend to mix mine a bit stiffer.

[@SalDiBlasi]

Not as loose as it looks in the video, but not at all stiff. It is just how I like to mix it and it is easier to get good coverage with it more on the loose side.

[@mkguskzjf]

I'm laying 15*30 tile in my kitchen tomorrow. What size trowel should I use and what was that red/orange grid thing? Thanks

[@SalDiBlasi]

15x30 inches? The orange stuff is Schluter Ditra, an uncoupling membrane.

[@mkguskzjf]

14 1/2* 29 1/2. I have Hardibacker down, I believe I need a 1/2 inch trowel.

[@SalDiBlasi]

@@mkguskzjf yes, I would notch both the tile and the substrate for tiles that size.

[@rogersref]

What thinset are you using, thanks.

[@SalDiBlasi]

Not sure which it was on this job, but probably a modified thinset from Mapei or Tec, or even Laticrete

[@kseries1982]

What's the best thin set you use for cement board

[@SalDiBlasi]

+kseries1982 you don't need an expensive thinset under the cement board.

[@kseries1982]

+Sal DiBlasi high do you recommend now for on top for porcelain tile

[@micdiva]

Whats the open time on thin set? How do you know when to stop using it and mix a new batch

[@SalDiBlasi]

Varies by type brand, environmental conditions, some have a pot life of 4 hours some 2. If it starts to get stiff mix it again to loosen it up, but never add water. At a certain point you will have to toss it.

[@micdiva]

@@SalDiBlasi so would ypu say 2 hrs minimum? In most cases?

[@SalDiBlasi]

Try it and find out, but I would say you are probably correct.

[@MIZUNOMP60]

Does it matter if the "combed thin-set ridges" run the length or width of say 12x24 porcelain floor tile? Thx Go Sox ;-)

[@SalDiBlasi]

Best to go the short way, but as long as you get correct coverage it is all good.

[@MIZUNOMP60]

@@SalDiBlasi Thank you, I thought so, more ridges that way so maybe better bonding!

[@katc7765]

Sal, I'm watching this again because last night we started in my small laundry room. Put down the ditra with no issues, and mixed the thinset like you show here. I used the t-levelers from Floor Decor and More. This morning...it has been 12 hours, I removed some of the levelers (maybe I didn't wait long enough) and some of those tiles are not stuck. Maybe we didn't use enough thinset? We did back butter though and I thought had used enough thinset. We did have to step on the tiles a little to get in a corner though, so could that be the problem? I don't think we forced any thinset out from under the tiles though.

[@SalDiBlasi]

Did you completely fill the ditra with thinset before notching the thinset for tile? What size tile, and what size trowel? What kind of thinset? and did you ix it properly? Does the back of the tiles that were loose have good coverage or is the tile back visible. Here is a video to help understand coverage and trowel selection. kzbin.info/www/bejne/maLFiq2Jic5_fZY

[@katc7765]

Thank you for the video. I think our thinset was a little thicker than yours. We did allow it to stand for at least 15 minutes. I am putting down ditra over concrete with a 3/16 x 1/4 v notch and filled the ditra holes full before then putting more thinset and pulling a notch with a square 1/4 x 1/4 trowel. My tiles are 8" x 24", and I'm putting down in thirds so some were 8x8 and some 8x16. I'm using Mapei Premium Unmodified thinset and I had a man mixing it. I told him to make it fluid but just thick enough to hold a notch, but he brought it in too thick and I sent him back out to add water and mix again. I still felt it was a bit thicker than yours appears to be. I used Goldblatt 1/16 t-level system which have that curve and I feel may have lifted the tiles too much. They also do not tighten to 1/16" grout line but more like 1/8". I took photos but don't know how to upload them for you. The backs of the tiles are not fully covered. What should have stuck to the tile is stuck to the ditra. In other words, after I pulled up the loose tile, you can see the thinset that should be on the tile is still sitting on the ditra...thicker in that spot. I still don't know how many didn't stick because I haven't removed all the t-levelers yet. I don't know if I should just take them all up and clean them and start over or if only a few are loose, just put those back down. I am not sure how to put them back down either. If the tiles that will be under the washer and dryer don't have a good bond, I am sure they will come up because the washer and dryer vibrate. Suggestions?

[@SalDiBlasi]

I think your problem stems from the trowel you used, much to small for a large format tile, Should have been a 1/2" deep trowel like a 1/4x1/2x14/ or a 1/2x1/2x1/2. The curved spacers just added to the problem, Should have used a system with a flat base. Might be a good idea to start over. Mix the thinset according tothe instructions on the bag, very important to get the correct consistency. Measure the water, add the powder and mix for the number of minutes required. Most thinsets need to slake and then mixed again. Doing it according to directions insures the thinset will perform as designed.

[@katc7765]

Okay. So I need to take up the tile and the ditra? And how do I get the thinset off the tiles so I can reuse them? So I need to also take up the ditra too, I guess. Suggestions for how to get it up? Problem is...I can't even read the print on the thinset bag because it is too small.

[@katc7765]

I guess I know what I'll be doing tomorrow. I guess a multitool with the vibrating blade would remove the thinset from the concrete floor and the backs of the tiles?

[@jevaunnybarton2986]

Can grout be used on wall rather than the thinset mortar to lay tiles?

[@dylanbetterton6603]

So some guy named "ask the builder" says that u can have swirls and comb lines go over each other and it not leave air pockets. Is this truth or does he not know what hes talking about??

[@SalDiBlasi]

Don't as a builder, ask a qualified tile installer. The only methods and standards that are acceptable to follow are TCNA, ANSI and manufacturer recommendations, everything else is just an opinion.

[@dylanbetterton6603]

@@SalDiBlasi that's his KZbin channel name. And I only do as u do lol

[@350zee1]

I love telling people sometimes, when people say I've been doing this for 20 plus years I say to them,.."well sorry to hear but you've been doing it wrong the entire time, keep them lines straight, it actually does make or break the end job.

[@timl7647]

Only a savage would install baseboard and then tile the floor

[@SalDiBlasi]

Grrrrr.

[@ziggiesaquaticexotics8270]

Way to wet wth

[@dudecontadeis4488]

Do you get paid by the square foot? How much? Most tile guys i know don't key in the thinset and backbutter the tile because they get paid only $4.00 sq ft so they can't afford to waste time like that....They go faster so they can make money.

[@SalDiBlasi]

+dude conta deis I never discuss how much i charge on an open forum, but if you can't charge enough money to do it correctly, then move on to the next job where you will get paid. I did the hurry up and get paid thing when i was younger and did not know better, now i do the take your time and get paid for it thing. People will not remember how fast you did the job, but the will be reminded every day how well you did it.

[@shawnp8429]

+Sal DiBlasi indeed brother !!! another reason to vote for Trump

[@TimKollat]

Are you seriously going to lose much money just because of back buttering tile? What 50 bucks more in thin set for a normal sized job? If a bag or two extra thin set is going to make or break you on profit, then I think you might want to look into a different career or bid your jobs better

[@fakerating]

i can tell you have done this before...

[@SalDiBlasi]

😊👍