How to STOP Elephant's Foot on your 3D Prints

Elephants foot can ruin your practical prints and is really annoying to deal with! In this video I'll show you how to improve 3D Print accuracy by mitigating elephants foot in several ways, using CAD, Slicer and 3D Printer tweaks.
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[@megaglowz8540]

I printed a model of an elephant's foot and enabled "elephant foot compensation". My printer disappeared and now I have a mini black hole in my print room. Thanks, Angus.......

[@gladwintheawesome883]

Hate when that happens

[@tdnam_9989]

I print the elephant foot now my house is full of nuclear radiation and melt my printer :/

[@TestTest-eb8jr]

😅

[@Inventorsquare]

I’m shocked at how much I can relate.

[@Dosbomber]

On the upside, a quantum singularity is an easy pet to maintain, and it'll eat anything. You have a great way to get rid of your leftovers and trash, and if you can train it to spin, you can generate power for the house.

[@DD-DD-DD]

Go to any automotive shop and get an inexpensive set of "feeler gauges". These are a bundle of metal slivers of calibrated thicknesses used for setting spark plug gaps. Choose the sliver that corresponds to your bed offset and slide it under the nozzle until it barely fits. Attempt same with the next size sliver down, if it will not go, then your know your exact nozzle offset is somewhere between the two. Much more accurate and repeatable than the "paper pull" method and only costs ~$10.

[@chuckthebull]

Dude! I never would have connected the dots.. Thanks for this suggestion,,,I also do car repair so I have these too,,,genius

[@gregoryconnors7370]

I preach the Feeler Gospel daily! It makes such a huge difference.

[@n1elkyfan]

Feeler gages are awesome. Not only does it tell you exactly what the gap is, it will also not change thickness or get damage as you use it.

[@anastasiacline6159]

My 3D printer came with feeler gages so I was sort of shocked when he said people use paper to gage the height for the nozzle. Like people who sell these expensive machines don't give enough of an F to give you the tools to use their product correctly? Why?

[@PatrickPease]

Right on, these are old old old machinist tips that only the oldest and probably deadest old timers used to use before numeric control. Get a book from a guy named dave gingery (dead) titled "build your own metal working shop from scrap" it's filled with hundreds of tips like this to create precision machine tools without precision measuring tools. I just got my 1st 3d printer and so much of the advice online is watching people struggle to find these ancient answers

[@mururoa7024]

In Cura it's called Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion. Works like a charm. Rafts produce an ugly finish on the bottom layer.

[@darkshadow31415]

thank you for directing me there.

[@dragonthc]

And I find rafts impossible to remove from PETG prints.

[@RobertoTacconelli]

@@dragonthc yes they are in PETG. I need to use electrical tools and sand it loosing accuracy gained with it. I hate rafts lol

[@jazzmeltsface]

So what would you set the "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" at? Specifically

[@mururoa7024]

@@jazzmeltsface -0.1 (YMMV) to slightly shrink the size of the first layer and eliminate the elephant foot.

[@dicksmith3553]

Excellent. I just bought me ender 3 v2 and it’ll be delivered this coming week. Now you just made me more excited to start. By the way I’m 76 yrs young so I’ve got a lot of learning to do. Never too old to learn. Keeps your mind in tip top shape Thanks again and I’ll start using your Videos once I’m up and running

[@yeldarb141983]

got one a while back for me and the fiance. first printer, so take me with a grain of salt. Still working out the kinks, but I definitely like blue masking tape better than window cleaner for adhesion, though I havent tried gluestick yet (look around, you'll hear all about it). That being said, I definitely find that it can be a pita to get it off pla models sometimes, especially larger ones, but I prefer to not risk the print not coming off at all, even though it's more of a risk with petg, or so I hear. already did the spring upgrade. not really sure if it made it better or worse, but it's all a learning experience anyhow, so :shrug: The big thing I'm learning is practice, practice, practice and tweak, tweak, tweak. good luck!

[@dicksmith3553]

Well a follow-up to my message three months ago I bought some glue for my ender 3v2 glass top and I’ll tell you everthing sticks no Elephant’s feet nothing works perfect especially when you do multiple prints of the same object thru the new Cura slicer. It has a lot of settings to help with the elephants foot and helping things stick but I find glue is best and you can make two or three runs with the same glue on the top then clean it with just plain water ( wet a paper towel then clean) and then a little bit of Windex after the put more glue on and run your prints again.

[@Allen-R]

nice

[@Chlorate299]

One thing to mention: if you slice and print a 20mm cube, no matter how well calibrated your printer is it will *always* measure slightly less than 20mm in the end unless you compensate for material shrinkage by resizing the part slightly.

[@pandajesus5052]

You’re so engaging that I somehow watched all of this when I don’t have any interests in 3D printing.. it was quite interesting, I gotta say

[@nachiket481]

Dude your like the best guy on youtube who does not focus on just one printer model. I like how you make most your videos more general so those with a different printers can follow along anyways. Thanks angus! 😄😀😃

[@ikew3150]

Good video. Have been printing for years and very surprised recently on the “lack” of videos to help with this. Thanks again for everything you do!

[@exqueue3813]

I think it's one of those things people learn to live with because it means your first layer adhesion is really good. Most people don't need their parts to be dimensionally accurate to where it matters.

[@ikew3150]

Ex Queue yeah totally agree! My 3D printers create my living currently, so in the past I’d just take a fine rotary tool and take the flair off for closer to accurate dimensions, but still not perfect. Eliminating it all together is the best thing to do but requires a decent amount of tuning. On both design and hardware.

[@GoatZilla]

@@exqueue3813 Because most people are printing useless landfill material.

[@spikekent]

Great advice as always Angus. Those new models look amazing, can't wait to see and print, always love your fiendish puzzles.

[@radsan3006]

Thank you very much for all the time you spend teaching everyone all these tips and tricks to get by on our printers, it's much appreciated! Please, don't ever stop!

[@kevalinopicks5555]

Tremendous video, Angus. So much useful information. I get these problems and until a few days ago I didn’t know what a raft was!

[@alexandrugroza839]

Exactly, if you home all the axis and level the bed with apiece of paper then you will have a .1/.2 mm gap at z 0 position so when the first layer is printing it will lift up another .2mm depending on the layer height resulting in a .4mm gap. So when i level my bed i lift up the z axis .1 mm and level there with a .1mm piece of paper resulting in a thiny little gap between the noozle and the bed at 0 position because the paper has a little room to play. I was looking for this technique online but didn't found anybody who used it and i didn't know if it was right but it works for me!

[@JamesNewcombVO]

I used to do this too before I got an ABL system. I kind of still do it, but now it's done in firmware and for a different reason. In Marlin I have LEVEL_CORNERS_HEIGHT set to 0.4 and I use a 0.4 mm feeler gauge. Heat the bed, level the corners with the feeler gauge, run a G29 and that guarantees my leveling springs stay at the same level of compression essentially forever (having it set to 0 would compress the springs by 0.4 mm every time I ran a corner leveling sequence, having to at some point loosen the screws when one of them eventually bottoms out).

[@jalensailin]

Thanks so much for talking about rafts. I've always thought they seem super useful but haven't seen many youtubers using them often so I was a little nervous. but this makes me feel better about them!

[@Waltkat]

And in Cura it's called "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion", but instead of a positive number, you have to enter a negative, i.e., -0.3mm or whatever. There's also the command "Horizontal Expansion" which is used to compensate for holes that print out too small (or large). Again, enter a negative number to compensate for holes that print too small and a positive for holes that are too big. Both of these work pretty well for me.

[@shashvatverma5673]

Thanks!

[@yourgamesbeover]

what a good video! Due to other issues with my printer, I've had to make some tweaks that drastically increase the elephant's foot issue for me. It's interesting that this video focuses not on "fixing" the issue, but more on how to compensate for it. Excellent video that just got me re-inspired to print again!

[@coltonames7535]

Elephants foot compensation is “horizontal expansion” in Cura. I’ve used it in a pinch to give models a bit more play or to tighten up gaps for a better fit. Super helpful!!!

[@therighteousmallard8621]

Thanks a lot (:

[@anoirbentanfous]

All your videos are amazingly useful even if we know about what you are talking about already but the fact you emphasize it make the information stuck and now I am finally convinced to use Rafts for the parts that I intend them to be precise.

[@chansepaskins1915]

Found this channel earlier today. As a current biomedical engineering major, accurate and precise 3d modeling and printing is a necessary skill to master. Thanks for your outstanding videos, subbed for sure👍

[@RM_VFX]

Thanks for this, it validated something I've been doing for months. I needed to print some structural pieces on a resin printer without elephant foot and figured a 0.5mm chamfer would compensate for the 0.5mm elephant foot I've been getting. The nice thing is with resing elephant foot only occurs on the bottom layers that have been set to a longer exposure, so it's very easy to figure out how high to make the chamfer and the part is still very dimensionally accurate.

[@johncontreras6190]

Thank you so much for your videos I’m currently saving up for a 3D printer and I’m already picking up tricks and techniques thanks to your videos

[@OwnerOfOwn]

comment comment engagement. comment for the algorithm. Miss your face, glad you're keeping up on projects man.

[@MakersMuse]

Thanks man ! Getting back into it

[@NJDrew951]

Comments for the comment god, and likes for the like throne!

[@kippie80]

You've got the best points on design that are concisely and clearly presented. Thanks!

[@cedriceveleigh]

I love how the elephant foot compensation and whatever makes support material easily detachable are both things that are activated by default in the Prusa Slicer. I just switched over from using Cura slicer with a Creality CR10 Mini to Prusa Slicer with a Prusa Mk3S, and I'm very happy with these two features, in addition to the magnetic PEI bed and the generally excellent functionality of the Prusa Mk3S printer.

[@DanBalan1]

Hello Angus, this issue has been killing me this week with a filament that I put a lot of trust in. I've only been at modeling and printing for about 2 months now, and your videos have been hugely helpful. This one takes the cake though. Thank you so much!!!

[@paramhayaran2052]

delete his third letter of name

[@philevans4021]

It's time to talk about the elephant's foot in the room

[@davidm8371]

Lol

[@noahhall4906]

😐

[@jimster1111]

i read that in CHEP's voice

[@steveharris2451]

@@jimster1111 what

[@Caleb_Guffey]

If the elephants foot is in your room you are probably dead Google it

[@only3dprinting]

You are the channel that inspired me to create my own youtube channel about 3D printing. Keep making great videos!!!

[@miranda.cooper]

This was the biggest problem I've had to deal with lately. Thank you so much for putting this out there! Found the "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" setting in Cura and I'm going to try it tomorrow :)

[@mcsstudios101]

I just started to try printing with Prusa. This is so helpful. Thank you!

[@techheadfred]

Excellent reminder of this and some great tips for mitigating it. Thanks for another great video!

[@animationcreations42]

I don't get why people hate rafts, for some prints they're necessary, especially things like rings where there's not much contact with the bed. I find even a 1 layer raft can make a huge difference, and it really doesn't take that much longer, or use that much filament. I probably waste more changing filaments to make sure the colour has changed!

[@twinturbostang]

For me, I don't like them because the surface finish of the bottom of the model is not as good. But I do use them if I have to.

[@havenview]

A brim would be far more effective with your example

[@animationcreations42]

@@havenview It totally depends, one of my printers absolutely hates printing circles smaller than 20mm on the first layer (probably down to the fake easy peelzy, but I'm too cheap to replace it because it works fine with everything else!) so a brim really doesn't help. My other printer on the other hand can get away with it just fine.

[@CursedBrainJuice]

I've started embracing rafts more than every in the last couple of months for lightsaber parts

[@symmetryninja]

If rafts didn't have a use, they'd not be in the slicer settings :) and people who argue that you don't need rafts simply haven't had the situation where they're needed or they've found an alternative solution... simple as that. They are wasteful of material and they do add some print time but they've really good in certain situations.

[@zimmy1958]

I always love your content for years now, THANKS.

[@TheJaiger]

Great timing. I've been running into this lately. Thanks!

[@jamesfairfoul1265]

cool video dude, just recieved my ender 3 v2, not had chance to build yet, so been watching as many tuition vids to get up to speed!! great info thankyou

[@Bajicoy]

Great troubleshooting video! You can also set your first layer height in the slicer to 0mm or whatever with a piece of paper or even pause the printer at its first layer/temperature to level it then. Anyways, I just eyeball the level and either adjust screws or babystep/set home offset until things are level while printing. I assume a tolerance of .2-.3mm with a .4mm nozzle for projects so there is no need for a raft. Another tip is lowering the bed temperature. I was printing PETG at 85 on the bed and just reducing the temperature to 80 reduced elephant foot almost completely.

[@samaipata4756]

THANK YOU! This was a very well done, very useful video covering the entire spectrum of the elephant foot issue and giving valuable advice and great solution options on how to remedy the issue! 👍👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏👏👏👏👏

[@SlendermanFreeman]

This tutorial couldn't have come at a better time :V I had a whole plethora of issues that I only had myself to blame for - I'm a rookie and made the silly decision of doing my first ever nozzle and bed upgrades (despite the fact that my printer was dialled in to near perfection with my old nozzle & bed), right in the middle of a bunch of commissions for some pals. Looks like I was way too confident in my ability to troubleshoot because it was one problem after another, (bed levelling and the nozzle wasn't fitted properly, ontop of speed settings etc.) I kept my head on and solved everything pretty quick until this damn elephants foot which I've been at for days with little improvement. I was just about ready to call it quits and refund my friends till you uploaded this and now I'm happily on my way to finishing each commission. I think this calls for some more celebratory upgrades. :^)

[@octopus1613]

Oh! That explains that. I'm very new to 3D printing, and have so far printed one thing (on a library printer) and it definitely had elephant's foot. I was wondering why it was a little wider at the base. Nice to know that my plan of adding a chamfer round the base edge is actually a recommended solution.

[@MD-NWWI]

I wish I would have had this info 3 years ago when I first started 3d printing! I knew nothing about 3d printing besides I was getting a computerized machine with a mini hot glue gun on it. The first 6 months or so of 3D printing was figuring out how to get the perfect first layer with no "squeeze out" was what I called it then. In the beginning I thought maybe my filament was too hot, or the heated bed was too hot and my prints were melting inside themselves! I just have to say you have done a glorious job of explaining what elephants foot is and how to compensate for it. Thank you thank you!

[@nimmen]

This was the video I needed. My prints come out pretty well and I'm happy with the dimensional accuracy, already better than some stuff I've seen at Uni. Except for the first 3-5 layers.. I was looking on how to fix this. Trying it tomorrow! Next step: the remaining tiny bit of Z inconsistency and the infill structure slightly popping through

[@dragonslayor987]

I tend to just eyeball my corner leveling. I find its suprisingly more accurite than basing the height on how well the nozzle grips the paper. Just use babystepping to grt the hight perfect while you print your skirt. Also when leveling corners make sure there isnt any plastic on the tip of the nozzle. Made that mistake plenty.

[@spencerdiniz]

Would’ve been nice to see a comparison of a cube printed with and without a raft to see if accuracy is improved.

[@madkvideo]

Whoa, I was having this issue with a test print yesterday! Perfect timing!

[@markmccoy1207]

Top notch advice as usual, Angus. Thanks again.

[@Thor110]

You print some awesome things and make some great Videos, I am getting a Creality Ender 3 Pro soon as my first 3D Printer and have seen some interesting mods for it and I was wondering if you had any suggestions or improvements of your own, though I will likely re-watch your videos and watch many more once it arrives. Thank you for making great content for the community to help people get started with 3D Printing.

[@DioZambrano]

I'm a newbie and your video took me out of 5 failures on my print, thank you so much. i was like on a time loop. :p

[@MakersMuse]

Great to hear!

[@diggraph]

Thanks for this video. I have a persistent EF problem on my Ender 3 but all the other videos I have seen only talk about the EF being on the first layer. Mine is visible up to as many as 10 layers and all protruding outwards, not concave like some you showed. I have tried many adjustments but I will now revisit the problem.

[@pv8685]

you are really smart angus! love your stuff!

[@thequietcraftsman]

For very small parts I find chamfers especially helpful in keeping them dimensionally stable in the X and Y

[@tugtrifeyt7078]

YES I needed this video so much ty

[@json9865]

Thank you so much for this, I really was having trouble with my printer giving me this.

[@carbide1968]

Thank you so much Angus. It's been a big problem for me and now i think my parts might fit.

[@Paddzr]

I have hard time removing parts of rafts, what air gap is recommended and how do I calibrate it well?

[@AdnanASyukri]

This is very informative... Thank you Angus!

[@Jynxx_13]

...not to mention that the "Elephants Foot" is the most dangerous object on planet earth. Thanks Chernobyl!!

[@ilikeyourname4807]

Help, my printer gives me radiation poisoning and is eating it's way through my floor

[@peng6100]

@@chrissieblossom if it does just put it in rice smh

[@Caleb_Guffey]

Ya thats what I was thinking

[@canadianradiochemist4465]

you're welcome

[@theskieshavefallen8408]

Sorry but you're wrong. My Mother in law is the most dangerous object on Earth.

[@wuerfel_schmied]

Just at 11:30, I love rafts. I don't need them anymore, but on my first days working on a makerspace machine it wouldn't have come along without a raft. This bit of extra material is often worth compared to failed prints.

[@jackwhitman9278]

Nice solution! To fix it in S3D, I just add another process just for the first layer and give it negative Horizontal Size Compensation

[@t_c5266]

I would like to say that after 2 years of watching this channel I have finally caved and bought my first 3d printer. Ender 3 Pro.

[@warmesuppe]

Congrats, have fun printing!

[@beware_the_moose]

Wait a minute, this isn't me

[@mickgilbert910]

I was waiting for "Let's get started!"

[@goonermark8565]

Great vid. Superslicer has a setting for elephants foot and also has another setting which lets you select how many layers to compensate for.

[@RavensEyeOffroad]

Wow, I have been fighting with this for a week. Im really new to 3D printing and its been a bit of a nightmare to get it all going. CR10 but the glass was apparently warped out the gate. I bought 12x12 panes from lowes and it took me all day to dial that in. I just ended up using rafts like you said as I still must be off a touch or Z is somehow or being told to increase z height at the start. Thanks for the video!

[@lonewolfsstuck]

Seen elephant's foot in title and was wondering how you could stop Chernobyl's elephant foot with a 3d printer.

[@ipadaccount7059]

I already use most of these things to stop elephants foot on my prints. What i suggest is putting a little bit of glue from a glue stick on the bed before the print and making the first laver height the same of higher than all the others. Really good tutorial. You did a really good job at explaining the fine details for people that are new to 3d printing. A++

[@avejst]

Great updates Good points Thanks for sharing👍😀

[@Liberty4Ever]

Thanks for this excellent tutorial.

[@DarKNG]

Recently all of my prints have been a little off on the base, like it was squished, and i just couldnt figure out what was going on, thank you for this!

[@NackDSP]

Root causes of Elephant's foot, extruded width is wider than you spec'd due to wrong height, perimeter printed last gets nudged out by too wide fill, first layer stays too hot gets crushed. Fix these and get a perfect first layer: 1. Robust tuning to handle bed variation. First layer needs to be the thickest layer so changes in bed level are a small percentage of the first layer height. A 0.1 mm variation in bed level is 50% of a 0.2 mm layer, and results will always be crap. Use a thick first layer like 0.32 and pick a layer that is divisible by 4 full step motor steps for most Z accuracy. 2. Print first layer, stop, peel up and measure on all sides with micrometer. Adjust nozzle height and bed level manually until what you peel up and measure is as close as possible to the first layer specified in slicer. Measure near each level screw if possible. 3. Leave room for extra material due to variation. Set first layer extrusion width to the widest to get great adhesion, like 120%. This both increases flow rate and spaces the traces farther apart. Then set first layer flow rate to 90%. This will allow for variation in bed level before the print gets too big. 4. Print perimeter first on first layer. This avoids overly thick fill traces from bumping out the perimeter. 5. Slow down enough so first layer is cool before second layer goes down. Second layer with the fan blasting, to avoid crushing and expanding the first layer. Those setting at 1:30 are the opposite of what you want. Use First layer height 0.32 and First layer width 0.48, first layer flow 90 %, adjust as needed. Enjoy the perfect first layer.

[@CarlosFandango73]

Thanks Angus, this is really helpful

[@wastedblues2]

Our 2 stratasys printers default to using rafts otherwise they would fuse, the markforged prints directly to the bed but it always looks fantastic. My guess is a combination of accurate leveling and software correction. My printer at home uses foam blocks with HIPS so that's fun.

[@Kevccordion]

Underside chamfer is GENIUS! Thanks!!!

[@ataphelicopter5734]

Hi Angus, found an issue with printing and figured you were just the guy to help My printer, for whatever reason, prints any inner circle, such as a hole through a block, as a square-ish circle, like the cylinder was squashed on the sides. Any idea what could be going wrong? Many thanks

[@chucklamb3496]

Very informative! Thanks so much!

[@philq01]

I printed you clearance castle on my new FLsun SuperRacer at 150mm and no problems everything was prefect!

[@GraphicdesignforFree]

Great tip of the raft, I will use that in Cura now, thanks!

[@Cairdymakes]

Thanks Angus, super helpful 🙂

[@davisdiercks]

If I remember right Cura has an adjustable number of layers to apply elephant's foot compensation; I use it on almost anything that isn't printed on a raft. And yeah, when I really need that perfect accuracy, I do swear by using a raft. One of my prints required several copies of a part being printed on a hexagonal raft about 10mm wide, and since they pulled away so cleanly I made the resulting rafts into coasters for beverages! No wasted material, they look cool, and they actually work quite well!

[@stewarta899]

That happens to me all the time this was very helpful thanks Angus

[@thesteelcolonel]

Me: doesn’t even have a 3D printer. Also me watching this video: Hmm yes, interesting...

[@wispblu]

Y=same

[@krisknowlton5935]

Col_Weab976 YT you should get one. They are a lot of fun to make things with. My grandson asked me what I was going to do with one. I told I didn't know. But since then I have made quite a few things that wood or steel was just not a good medium to use. Plus now you have a good excuse to learn a 3d CAD software to keep your brain from turning to mush (it may fry it though). At 66 I am still learning and having a blast making things.

[@thesteelcolonel]

@@krisknowlton5935 you know what? This. This comment is what’s pushing me over the edge. Imma get one.

[@krisknowlton5935]

@@thesteelcolonel I bought the Ender 3 Pro. It seems to be a good machine. Mine has made excellent prints.

[@thesteelcolonel]

@@krisknowlton5935 how much does it cost?

[@AndrewAHayes]

I fiddled with the settings and tightened my belts to try to get the perfect C cube and I got it bang on 20.00 mm in the X, Y but the Z-axis was 19.96 mm, I knew it was Elephants foot that was causing the loss in the Z-axis height. I am now going to slice my cube with compensation to see if I can get that perfect C cube.

[@lallenlowe]

Elephant foot compensation probably won't help with the Z axis dimensions. It will print less plastic in the X and Y axis on the first layer, but the Z axis will still be squished. A raft might help though. Or you could increase the size of the cube in the z axis in your slicer by like 0.04mm

[@morett91281]

Hi, great video. I have a question regarding your Clearance and Tolerance 3D Printer Gauge since I usually print with a 0.6 nozzle. If it helps me to buy your file and what layer height do you recommend.

[@Steven42192]

Thank you so much for this video you took me from needing tool to get 5 all the way to being able to do 3 with ease

[@parkflyerindonesia]

Thanks for the explanation and tips. I see you're using Ender as well as Prusa Slicer. Do you see Prusa Slicer better than Cura? I have some issues with missing layer in Cura and turns out it could be minimized as thinner wall at that particular missing layer but not totally fixed,

[@atrayyu3016]

Love your Channel, Thank you!! I purchased your clearance tolerance spinner file and no matter what I do, I can't get rid of the elephants foot on the first few layers. This fuses all the parts together on the first few layers. The rest of it seems to have really good clearance and would work well if the bottom layers weren't fused together. Could you possibly add chamfers to the bottom of that model to aid in this?

[@nigmaxus]

Thank you for explaining this

[@moimeme8827]

greatvideo ! thank's ! and now how can we do to have better tolerance? My printer do 0.4 great, 0.3 medium (dependaing of the speed) and 0.2 very bad :(

[@pieceopye4046]

Any advice for damage done to the bed when the nozzle has been too close?

[@chriseverhart6993]

Awesome work mate

[@Kay0Bot]

This man said "Raft" and my eyes rolled back so hard I found inner peace

[@jordyv.703]

After about 5 test prints and too much wasted material I managed to get rid of most of the elephant's foot. So thank you!

[@Koolkole27]

I am designing a puzzle box but I have lots of sliding parts and turning parts but how much space should I add to parts to allow room for the parts to fit and slide properly?

[@mozkitolife5437]

Thank you, Angus. I'm dealing with this now on a complicated device with low tolerances. I'm sick of using a stanley knife to cut off the elepheet!

[@NoMorePlz]

Useful for me. Good stuff

[@oliwally]

Hi Angus, heard you mention the UP printer in this video. We still have two of those at our school but since buying a Prusa it's not being used much, mainly because it seems like we can't use Slicer with the UP - have to use their printing software. What's worse is that their latest software doesn't support our UP printer so they have told us to use a legacy driver. Lot's of fails using that combo. Have you had any luck using Prusa Slicer or Slic3r with your UP printer?

[@shurmurray]

A few words about crazy and complicated 3D designs: procedural generation and scripting helps A LOT. F.e. - using openSCAD in conjunction with Python and SolidPython library. It made possible create 3D models literally impossible to hand-draw in regular CADs, yet going to need at least elementary programming skills and intent to dig into it.

[@esteva03]

How about 2nd or 3rd layer adhesion? I've solved the elephant foot exactly how you did it but then the second layer doesn't rise up enough. I get streaks that get combed on the third layer. The rest of the print come out great. But the first two layers tend to separate. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@danielsantrikaphundo4517]

Very interesting and informative. I think it is also worth mentioning the *temperature of the bed:* the squeeze of the first layer is possible because the bed heats plastic enoguh to be able to deform. By reducing the temperature of the bed after the first layer from, say, 60 to 50 degrees Celsius (PrusaSlicer has a specific option to set this), also reduces the squeeze of the first layer. I don't like using chamfers to correct the printed object, as it is not actually a part of the object, just a trick to overcome the squeeze of the first layer. But it works ^^', just as rafts do; sometimes you have to do what you have to do in order to have the printer make the object well

[@cryptojunkie5875]

Angus could you consider doing a similar video for the same bulge effect on corners. I have this issue on my Ender 3 Pro and finding it difficult to resolve. The actual sides of my prints are fine, just the very corners bulge causing the outside edges to no sit flat against a straight edge.

[@twentyfoursevenmusic5064]

I am new to this type of thing and I have bought a ender 3 and I use the ultimaker software as slicer is it on that named adhesion or is that a other thing ??

[@johnm.davies1859]

I have a geeetech A30T - Love the idea of 3 colours and all though it not exactly what I expected. I fail on the Bridging, and the clearance test and I am not sure if it is me or the printer. Do you have any suggestions and If I was to buy another printer which would be your #1 Recommendation with all your years of using so many.

[@aguywithlaptopand3dprinter]

can anyone explain how to do it with cura slicer with ender 3 printer..i have horrible printing quality rn

[@marcwilkins8787]

Does anyone know where I can get the clearance and tolerance gage model that was mentioned in the video?

[@MakersMuse]

www.makersmuse.com/clearance-and-tolerance-3d-printer-gauge here :)