How To Sump Pump Install, DIY, Secret is Use a Good Pump

Simple Fast Easy! Zoeller M53 is a 1 /3 hp sum,p pump that will work and work without problems. A great video for Do It yourselfers
Apple Drains
Drainage Contractors
www.AppleDrains.com
We'll Make It Right
The First Time
www.appledrains.com/drains

[@baysbill]

You do a good job on the content of your videos. Detailed, without being overloaded. Specific without a lot of verbiage. And your presentation is relaxed, conversational. Not preachy or rapid fire. Well done.

[@joshuapruden6497]

Chuck You are right about the Zoeller pumps! I have one in my house along with a zoeller check valve. They are old and a little rusty but it still works!! Zoeller rocks!

[@femtoman2357]

Thanks for the tip about the weep hole in the body of the pump. This insures that the impeller always has prime and the pump will not airlock. For this reason I did not drill a hole in the outlet pipe and my pump has never airlocked. Again, thanks for the tip and thank you Zoeller!

[@dogsarefun2]

LOL, just replaced my zoeller sewage pump (model m267-0001) and check valve, lasted 26 years! Check valve was shot too.....great video!

[@stephenwright4137]

Getting ready to replace a Zoeller now. Went to Lowes the other day and they had plenty, went back yesterday and all gone. We've had a lot of rain the last few weeks and mine finally quit after 22 plus yrs. so yeah they do last awhile. Over the years every now and again I had to tap it but overall pretty reliable.

[@frankm2588]

I agree with some of the comments below-you do need a vent hole, not only the manual tells you but I've spoken to Zoeller engineers. Also, with any kind of depth of your sump & a high water table, the pump will be running all the time since the float goes on so early and shuts off so soon. You will need a good quality separate float and just tie up the stock Zoeller float switch. I have had Zoeller float switches burn out very quickly.If this guy had them last that long they must have been installations with very little water. Zoeller pumps do pump water like crazy though.

[@seven73ify]

Thank you Apple Drains:)

[@steveandsarahrutledge9105]

Thanks, do you have a particular brand of check valve you prefer? GREAT video. Very helpful! Thanks, again!

[@pwtheannex]

I love you Chuck. You are invaluable! Believe it:)

[@notta3d]

Nice video. Thank you.

[@intigomez2666]

I just got two zoeller pumps with battery back up for $1,800...hope they work ...

[@mhaddadi]

WHat is the minimum water level required for pump to start.?

[@caprisun2k1]

Great video. Do I need to add thread seal tape or waterproof grease to the threads on the pvc adapter before screwing it into the discharge on the pump? Is it ok if there are still threads showing after I have already hand-tightend it as much as it will go?

[@tc1uscg]

Though the pump may be the best, how about the float unit? I understand thats the weak spot of most pumps. I currently have a Ridgid 1/2 hourse but replacing it with a 1hp Coleman. Last time I replaced the pump, I cleaned out the discharge pipe up to where it leaves the house. Lots of buildup. I'm concerned it could have more build up from the house to the storm drain. Is there a good way, ie. using a snake, to clean out the rest of the pipe?

[@1weirddoe571]

Can I put two valves in series?

[@stuff_n_thanngs7552]

My zoller has a tag on it from 2013. Wont quit running. I got my backup put in but since the zoller still physically pumps can i piggy back one of those cheap float things from lowes so i still have something in an oh shit moment?

[@TheMrhayden8]

I agree. Separate switch is the only way to go...

[@glasser2819]

"I've never replaced one in 27 years"... i just bypass the float switches when they fail ! 👍

[@protectionman]

My sump pit has gravel in the bottom. I installed a Zoeller 57 and a small piece of gravel got in it and it jammed. I got the piece of gravel out and it still runs. What can I put the pump on so it doesn't come in contact with the gravel?

[@mbvizer]

Current sump pump is attached to 1 1/4 PVC for some reason.Any problem with that? Lift from floor is about 4' and sump is 2' deep. There is no anti-backflow valve either. Where should this be installed in relationship to floor?

[@avetsuper6272]

Chuck brother can you tell me please while digging around house to place weep tile what is best way to do ...to open space at all four side of the house at ones ( dig until footage) or its ok to do side by side i mean to connect weep tiles after each side of the house is done ..concerning about safety and stability of the house when take off all sand( here is Toronto is sandy area) so please let me know your opinion and also up to which point of foundation footage should dig..someone said just up to line with footage and place weep tile on the top , but other said weep tiles should be 3-4 inch under top level of footage. Thanks

[@ElectoneGuy]

My Zoeller M98 just burned out after only 5 years (and it's not the switch). So much for Zoeller quality...

[@FlyingPigNJ]

I wouldn't complain about 5 years at all. Though mine blew up after 8 years. I put a new one in and I'm still dealing with the oil all over the place.

[@chaamirkamboh3251]

Nice

[@rogeliosalazar6842]

Disculpe señor una pregunta, esa bomba lleva capacitor?

[@rustyme1122]

Agree the switch is more likely to fail than the pump itself. I personally prefer the Zoeller pump without switch, and use a Rhombus vertical master float switch. Zoeller switches are rated 100,000 cycles. Vertical master is 250,000. Problem I find with all submersible pumps is lack of depth adjustment. They all only pump about 6 to 8 inches of water level. I was able to modify the vertical master and now get about a full 12" of pump down.

[@kennethball1853]

Float switch always goes bad I've replaced so many of them

[@DK-pr9ny]

My Zoeller pump only lasted 7 years. They make good pumps, but the switches are weak.

[@defan2105]

I got 4 years out of my Zoeller M53 for a "pump in a bucket" just used for deep sink and laundry. Switch got stuck on and by the time I heard it, got to it, it burned up and almost melted the box. I have had great luck in the past but that scared me.

[@teslapilot5755]

Hey Charlie, TP from North Charlotte, "Bull tallow land". Great video. I also bought a Zoeller, and came upon your video while searching for tips on installs. I got sick of my crawlspace getting all mushy during wet season. Q1- Zoeller recommends drilling a relief hole in the PVC, right before the check valve... Any reason you don't? Q2- My Sump basin is getting filled with MUDDY water (im currently pumping out using a small Everbilt 1/6 HP). Would the clay sediment not damage the Zoeller? Its crazy how high the water table is here in Charlotte !!! The soil goes wet and it's almost like silly putty ! I already french drained around, and I still get flooding... Due to the high water absorption rate of the @#$ bull tallow 'soil', I'm not even sure the sump pump will be doing much of a difference. Thoughts?

[@dereky1861]

Can you replace the float switches or would you have to purchase a whole new pump.

[@stevenmoomey2115]

Yes, you can replace just the switch assembly, available on Amazon and eBay. But be forewarned that the switch assembly may not include the plastic plug and gasket. BTW, Do not substitute a Metal Plug for the Plastic Plug! The Plastic Plug will, “Blow Out,” Rather than the Switch Body or Pump Exploding due to a Malfunction.

[@johnsanders3947]

Hi Chuck, Great videos! One question: you're pretty high on Zoeller M53 pumps and that's what I've been using. Problem is, I've had to replace them every two or three years because of switch failures, and I understand this is a common problem. I figure two possible things that contribute to this that I might be able to improve on, and I'd like your opinion. 1) I'm not always able to test every 3 months because I live quite a distance from the house where installed. Would more frequent testing, so that the switch opens and shuts repeatedly help by helping to prevvent it from seizing up? 2) There is quite a lot of rusty looking discoloration after 2or 3 years. Should I be putting some kind of cleaner into the sump from time to time? What's your experience with switch failure on these pumps, and do you have any recommendations for me?Many thanks!

[@dallasgirl3470]

Good question

[@DanGinney]

Instead of replacing the pump just replace the switch. The switch is much cheaper than the pump assy.

[@AmericasBasement]

I've replaced dozens of these. Normally bad float switches.

[@jeffclark5206]

You can replace the float switch assembly and not the entire pump. They are much cheaper and easier to replace.

[@TomBTerrific]

Maybe I misread the install instructions on my M98 pump. It said when using a unicheck is installed. Not sure what a Unicheck is. (Check Valve maybe?) a 3/16 dia hole in the discharge line even with the top of the pump. I am thinking this is for air to escape. If the float switch goes bad cant you just use another switch that goes on and off and the pump can plug into that switch?

[@Milosz_Ostrow]

If you have a pump without a bleed hole in the volute, a 1/8 in to 3/16 in hole may be drilled at the top of the male thread of the adapter that screws into the pump base. Placing it there guarantees 100% that the pump impeller will be in water and also that discharge from the bleed hole will always be under water, preventing it from splashing and spraying out of the sump.

[@juniorgarcia5344]

does a ump pump not being use should be no water in it? i open the lid and i see my sump pump flooded with water.

[@Milosz_Ostrow]

It depends on your local soil conditions, water table, how much it has rained, and so on. Most sump pumps can't pump all the way down to the surface on which they sit; two to four inches of water tends too remain. If the water table drops below the level of the sump bottom during the dry season, the sump may get completely dry.

[@juniorgarcia5344]

you just put the pump on the ground or you need to drill screws so the sump pump wont go wondering?

[@DanA-ix7ms]

Pumps tend to move a little when they start, but that movement is typically absorbed and limited by the discharge pipe. If it seems extreme or you're concerned about it moving and binding the float switch, you can usually place a brick or a piece of concrete between the pump and pit wall to limit the twisting movement.

[@Milosz_Ostrow]

Dan A is correct. Don't hook up a sump pump with the crappy corrugated plastic hose that is often sold in home improvement and hardware stores, as it can let a pump move around in the sump enough to foul the float switch, either causing the pump motor not to start, or just as bad, keeping it from stopping. Use a PVC pipe and no-hub coupling to allow a little give, but not allow the pump to twist due to starting torque effects.

[@Rampage00769]

problem putting it that low on pump. I assume it would be ok as the manufacturer made it that way, but i don't see any vids with it like that?

[@redneckgourmet]

Zoeller pumps are notorious for switch problems. I wouldn't have one for free.

[@ElectoneGuy]

They burn out prematurely too.

[@Milosz_Ostrow]

"Check valves do go bad." Yeah, tell me about it. A week ago we had to pump over 7,000 gallons of water out of a basement after a cheap Ace Hardware plastic body check valve costing less than $12 separated into two pieces, allowing the pedestal pump to circulate water uselessly, wasting electricity, until the water level rose enough to short the 120 VAC in the motor, tripping the circuit breaker.

[@cgrant9688]

Milosz Ostrow I

[@concretedavey]

Zoeller pumps are the best. The oil inside of submersible pumps is mineral oil. Couple of things. First rather than making the first section of pipe so short I like to run it so that it extends above the sump liner. Then the no hub and then the check valve. Also on the male adapter use never seize or a thread sealant so that it's easy to remove years later.

[@ElectoneGuy]

Disagree. I put up a lot of cash for a Zoeller M98 and it burned out after only 5 years of moderate use.

[@klandaverde2000]

I only watched this video because my basement just flooded FML

[@portagepete1]

So looks like the junk one coming out is a Zoeller, why not show what happen to it? are you going to take it home change the switch and resell it? Then change the customer a bunch of money for replacing everything?

[@carlengel4760]

I'm on my fourth pump in 10 years

[@marcin97]

what brands are you getting?

[@carlengel4760]

Zoeller.....

[@Rodj12341]

Get a Hydromatic or Nexgen Pumps(Previously called Stevens Pump) sump pumps, I have experience with both of them(Hydromatic: D-A1 Stevens Pump: SS-35F(Now is the Nexgen Pumps 3300 series)) and they are still running great besides of the switch on the D-A1 activating at a higher level(14 inches) than normal(9 inches) though we use a Basement Watchdog BWC1 dual float on it instead. Hydromatic pumps are piggyback and has a newer diaphragm switch which should solve the switch getting stuck in the on position and the off position and should have more consistent on-off levels now. Hydromatic also created their version of Zoeller pumps which is the HP33/HP50 if you want to go with that design. The Stevens/Nexgen pumps uses a diaphragm switch also, but unlike Hydromatic, the switch housing is normally ABOVE the water when it activates and isn't submerged, which means the switch will still have the same on-off level after 15+ years, and they seem to be the only company that has a 24 volt battery back-up system(Model 2400) and it utilizes the companys same pump design and switch and pumps 50 GPM at 5 foot lift and is not a crappy 12 volt system which uses the same pump design across many companys.

[@bardsolo]

RIP the product box

[@TheMotorman116]

The “built in” anti air lock hole is a joke. They work fine, until the cast iron corrodes and they fill with rust and sediment when not running... then when the water rises... failure to move water. This happened to me one spring... heavy rains hit, and when the pump was called upon it ran, but didn’t pump due to an air lock because of this hole. My advice is to drill a hole in the pvc pipe just above the pump base. It will never corrode and will always work.

[@understructurerepair7132]

We use ONLY Zoeller too. There is another professional pump company showing drilling a weep hole in the riser, and in the demonstration they’re using a Zoeller. It’s already got a release hole. Geez !!! Just do what Apple says and forget the rest

[@Rodj12341]

How To Sump Pump Install, DIY, Secret is Don't use a crappy pump(Zoeller's) but instead a Hydromatic or Nexgen Pumps sump pumps

[@TheSteelman72]

love the pumps but their floats suck, switches are fair

[@gatekeeper2012]

any one on what type of oil goes inside the motor????

[@Funexpected]

Someone in this comment section said mineral oil

[@MrYosmitty]

correction "zoeller " I hate auto spell check

[@rustyme1122]

Yes Zoeller pumps are top quality and the only pump I use in my pit. However, you mentioned a vent hole in the discharge pipe is not needed as the vent hole in the pump cavity is sufficient. NOT TRUE! A hole in the discharge pipe below the check valve is ALSO needed. Read the Zoeller manual. I use a tee with a 1/2 branch and plug the branch, then drill a 1/8 in hole in the bottom of the branch so the stream shoots straight down. I did see an air lock once without the second vent hole.

[@MrYosmitty]

zoeller pumps are the best but their switches are THE worst. Listen to rustyme112. Get a separate switch. I have collected over 20 pumps that people have thrown out thinking they were shot but its only the switch.my plumber friend gives them to me and I fix the switches

[@MrYosmitty]

there is no way you didn't have to replace 1 speller pump in 27 years unless by chance you only put in 1 and didn't use it. They're not that good

[@Pro1er]

I have t agree with others here, this pump is a turd. The switch is way under specced for the pump and will burn out in a few years. Also, the short throw of the float causes the pump to cycle more than necessary, putting even more stress on the switch. Even Zoeller says that the switch should be replaced every year. Huh? Read the reviews on Amazon, then go and buy a quality product.

[@calikokat105]

such as ??? Liberty ??? Myers ???

[@Rodj12341]

Hydromatic, or Nexgen Pumps(Previously called Stevens Pumps). Also, for the float by itself, you can use a Basement Watchdog BWC1.

[@mainelyelectric]

Pro1er I have a superior brand pump and I like that brand. I also like liberty they make good pumps to and liberty also has good customer service I've talk to them a few times about a drain pump that a friend has in a restaurant and they sent me out new parts for it at no cost.

[@offplanetevent]

Rotten apple. useless video.