How to take apart the motor on a Singer Featherweight: Singer Featherweight Tutorial - Part 7

[@EnEyeCeeOhElleEee]

I think I could do just about anything if you walked me through it! I would have never imagined taking apart a sewing machine motor, but now I'm feeling confident to give it a try

[@SewingMachineRehab]

I am rooting for you! Don’t do anything you are not comfortable with. Most motors come apart easily but sometimes the wiring will need replaced. Inspect that first. If you are not comfortable soldering things then make sure you know someone who can. Reach out if you have questions!

[@SewingMachineRehab]

I am rooting for you! Don’t do anything you are not comfortable with. Most motors come apart easily but sometimes the wiring will need replaced. Inspect that first. If you are not comfortable soldering things then make sure you know someone who can. Reach out if you have questions!

[@armick57]

Much respect for a woman who is not afraid to get her hands dirty!

[@reniearrigo]

Excellent video! Thank you so much!

[@SewingMachineRehab]

You're very welcome!

[@featherweightswoon6855]

Your explanations are really good and you are very well spoken. Thank you for the information.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

You are welcome! Also, I took a peek at your channel and I love your Featherweight watercolor!

[@deborahwoodward5578]

Thank you so much for another wonderful teaching video Jen. I am very grateful for these. My machine helper son has moved away. He was my eyes for closeup work on motors etc. Your videos are always filmed so good that I am confident that I can do it without him. I am wishing now that I hadn't let them sit here a year after watching this. I am going to love doing this far more than the 15-91 and 201s. Wishing you and your family the most wonderful holiday season. Blessings

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Deborah, you are always so kind and encouraging. Confession, when I work on my machines I use my cheater glasses from the drugstore. I don't need them for anything really but it really helps with the eye strain from looking at all the little parts up close. I also use an Ottlite with a magnifying light. Don't know where I would be without them! A very Merry and blessed Christmas to you as well!

[@mjremy2605]

An excellent demo series! You did a fantastic job of explaining the mechanics of disassembly and reassembly. How fortunate we are to have this. Many thanks!!! Note to viewers: 7:40 Pull out carbon brush SLOWLY, and stop before brush comes fully out. Check direction of curve on end of carbon tip. Is it horizontal or vertical? Make a diagram on paper showing curve of carbon tip so that you have a visual when putting the used one back in after maintenance. It makes no difference on a new brush, but the old one has a curve matched to the commutator curve inside due to wearing down from contact. This is particularly important in this particular model, as the brush seems square not rectangular. In my vintage Viking machine, the brush is rectangular and only fits one way inside, so it is foolproof.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Thank you so much! I was sad when this one was completed, it was so much fun and I have immensely enjoyed the interaction with all who have followed along!

[@dhscts]

You could call the little washers shims. They are different, as the shims are used to adjust end play. How far the shaft moves in and out.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Good point! Thanks!

[@catfisher4449]

Wow. Thank-you for your videos. I've wanted to take mine apart but was afraid to and there are no courses near us. You're videos are inspiring and confidence building. Excellent training. 😊

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Thanks for watching and saying hello!

[@angiecatalano5074]

I am so grateful for your instruction. Thank you for sharing!

[@SewingMachineRehab]

You are so welcome!

[@scoopold]

Thank you very much for the detailed video! I happened to stumble across a featherweight in decent shape from 1964 at the thrift shop for $12. I definitely didn't pass that up haha and I've been enjoying the process of resurrecting it and this video is super helpful!

[@SewingMachineRehab]

I am so glad you are enjoying the videos! A $12 221, that is quite a find!

[@immolder]

Watching your video series, the content is top notch, and production quality is also. You are a rare breed, as a rehabber selling these machines yet still sharing in detail how it is done. Not keeping any secrets, you are sharing for free more than other rehabbers are sharing in paid classes. Keep it up.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Thank you! I enjoy the process so much!

[@butterflyonmywall6183]

Great video! I didn't know there were springs where the wicks are. I have flushed the wicks in place but have never removed them. I'm anxious to see how it all goes back together. When I take the motors apart it always makes me a bit nervous but it so needed on some of my machines. Looking forward to the cleaning process. Thank you! 🦋

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Thanks! Not sure if the cleaning process will be one or two videos long, but I will cover all the info that I think is important to know. Hopefully after watching someone else do it you will feel less nervous. :)

[@sewterie]

Hi. Newly subscribed. sent by Bob Fowler. You video was very helpful today as I was servicing my Featherweight. I am looking forward to watching more videos. Thanks.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Welcome! Thanks for saying hello and Bob is one great guy!

[@BobFowlerWorkshop]

Jen, this is fantastic! Merry Christmas to you and yours!

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Thank you Bob! Merry Christmas to you and Liz, blessing in the New Year as well!

[@michellewalker3153]

Hi Jen, Thank you so much for the Featherweight tutorial. I am rehabbing my first Featherweight and your videos are guiding me along beautifully. I have run into a problem that I could use your advice on. I cannot remove the screw that loosens the motor. I have applied penetrating oil several times. I could get someone stronger than I to try, but I'm afraid of causing damage. Do you have any advice I could follow before resorting to brute force? Thank you! Michelle

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hello! are you talking about the motor mount screw? It is a pretty hefty screw so you shouldn't be afraid to be a little forceful with it. If you have a way to get some leverage it should come loose. The chapman screwdrivers come with a little mini ratchet tool that fastens on to the shaft of the screwdriver, I don't know what I would do without that sometimes! It helps you get more torque when you are turning the screwdriver. But yes, maybe it's time to call in a little more muscle! I hope you can get it loose!

[@janetsicking5489]

While cleaning out my attic this week, I found a Featherweight 221 in it's case that has been sitting there for almost 30 years! It is a 1952 and looks like it was rarely used. I have been following along with your videos up until taking apart the motor. If I tackle taking the motor apart, where can I buy new wicks for the grease? I am assuming they are hard as rocks by now. Thanks!

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Wow! That is wonderful! I think I will go look in my attic for a Featherweight haha! I actually sell the grease wicks on my site now: sewingmachinerehab.com/shop/ols/products/grease-wicks-for-singer-featherweight-221-motor ….and good luck with your restoration!

[@davidmarshall7519]

What caused these rouges on the commutation? Thanks, Dave

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hi! Probably thread and needle strikes. Hard to imagine thread could do that but if a machine isn’t maintained properly over the years then it is possible. Almost every Featherweight I work on has those marks…makes you wonder if the hook assembly design could have used some tweaking…

[@grahamcracker1054]

Good Evening. I am so happy that I found your KZbin Channel. I was gifted a 1952 Featherweight. It is in need of some TLC. I have removed parts following your instructions. I even have the cap off the motor and have the other side to loosen to get to the wick. I noticed that the armature is black and not the copper color yours is. I am assuming that I can wipe it off, not sure if I can get back to the copper color. Is it normal that it should be black and not copper? If you have any suggestions on how to handle this, I would be greatly appreciative. Thank you and Cheers.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hi! You can wipe off some of the carbon you see with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Then I polish it using very fine sand paper, around 3000 grit and wipe it again with alcohol. You should see copper under that black when you are finished. The featherweight shop makes a rubber honing stick which also works well. I hope that helps!

[@grahamcracker1054]

Thank you for your reply. Another question: The coils on the armature that look like a flower are also black, not copper that I have seen on your videos. I have tried to wipe it off and nothing comes off. So, can an armature have dark wire opposed to the copper wire? I was wondering if there was a time that Singer made their motors that way . FYI: The machine did run before I took it apart. I look forward to your thoughts. Thank you in advance. Cheers.😀@@SewingMachineRehab

[@Rob-mx9dq]

Armature shim washers,is the proper nomenclature(discription)

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Thank you!

[@nicmert]

Thanks so much for documenting this! Do you have a source for the motor grease wicks? Thanks!

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Are you looking for just two?

[@nicmert]

@@SewingMachineRehab Well if all goes well, I will need 6.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

So sorry, I meant to get back to you on this. There are a couple sellers on Etsy that sell them. The wicks are a little thinner than the original wicks in a 221 but they work. If you are looking for a direct source you can look at McMaster Carr, it would be under “Firm felt cord” and you would need to identify the diameter you need. Hope that helps!

[@cynthiaporter8300]

Could you point us to the McMaster-Carr item number for the grommets? I know they are sold in packs of 100..thank you for sharing you knowledge. Thanks!

[@Mowdy19]

did you find the grommets? i am looking for them too- I am using my bf's youtube tv account - my name is lana

[@cynthiaporter8300]

No, i used shrink tubing around the wires.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hi, a little late on this, sorry. The one I use is B811. It is the closest fit I have found that still has a larger inner diameter so that you can fit the original thicker wires through if you want to. They are a little fiddly to get in but they do fit well. I think you have to purchase 100 at a time but they are not too expensive. I hope that helps if you still needed to know!

[@cynthiaporter8300]

Thank you, I know you must be very busy. I can’t imagine how much time and effort it takes to do these videos and answer everyone’s questions. 🥰

[@jayjoob]

would i be able to just use electrical tape instead of heat shrink tubing? btw thank you for this series, it is amazing... i have 2 featherweights all taken apart ready to be cleaned now, thanks to your helpful detailed, descriptive videos! ur an angel

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hi! Thank you for your kind words, I am glad you like the videos. I would stay away from electrical tape in place of the heat shrink tubing. I am not an electrician but from everything I have researched the heat shrink tubing is safer. I hope that helps!

[@jayjoob]

thanks! one more question, can i just skip the heat shrink tubing altogether??@@SewingMachineRehab

[@Rob-mx9dq]

Harbor freight has heat shrink tubing, you don't have to shrink it, if you don't have a heat gun !

[@KarenC-rv2zp]

Thank You for the video Jen. I am not able to get the set screw off the shaft. Is it the end of the world if I can't get to that wick to change IT? I used Kroil for several days and used the hair dryer without success. I was able to get the other wick and wick spring out

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hi! You are welcome! Do you mean the set screw to get the pulley end off?

[@KarenC-rv2zp]

@@SewingMachineRehab yes

[@SewingMachineRehab]

@@KarenC-rv2zp I just saw you replied to this. If you can’t get it off then you can just clean in place. I would add grease to the port and then when you are able to run the motor and it can heat the grease up check to see if you need to add more. I think it would be ok to add a drop of oil in the port before you add grease just to soften the wick up if it is hard. Then add the grease. Sorry I didn’t get a reply back right away!

[@KarenC-rv2zp]

@@SewingMachineRehab thank you for the information. I just received your wicks and got the spring and the wick back in the other port!!! HAAA. Also The wicks are they wool or cotton?

[@SewingMachineRehab]

@@KarenC-rv2zp Just realized I didn't answer this, they are wool. Sorry for the delay!

[@lilolmecj]

If necessary, let’s say a wire is frayed or corroded from water exposure (!), can replacement wires be purchased, or do you know if the correct wire ratings can be found on the repair schematics? I am not quite there yet, and I need to have my husband look at the motor for his professional opinion. While not a small motor guy specifically, his career involved fixing anything on a seagoing vessel that needed repaired, . I did get brave and take the motor off and open it. I am now taking a break.😸 in a weird turn of fate, one of the brush screws was obviously broken and repaired with some type of hardened goo, maybe an epoxy. Like the one you are working on, mine has been cleaned or “repaired “ by someone before me. Someone with gorilla strength where screws were concerned.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hi! Yes, you can replace any of the wiring with 18 gauge copper stranded wire. I usually replace the wiring for the light and switch and the two wires that come out of the motor. If your husband can solder (sounds like he can!) then you should be fine. Good luck with the brush cap screw, that’s frustrating but at least you can buy new ones. Let me know if you have other questions, I haven’t made a rewire video yet.

[@lilolmecj]

@@SewingMachineRehab thank you very much for the reply!!

[@jenc7086]

As you were removing the brush covers, you mentioned a link to get new ones. However, there is no link for the covers. Mine on my white featherweight are broken or sheared off. Can you please tell me where to find new ones? Is there someone who can make new ones using a CAD program and a 3D plotter? Any information will be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hi! Here is the link: singer-featherweight.com/products/motor-cap-screw-small/?aff=57 I will try to add it to the video description as well. I don’t know if anyone who can make them with a 3D plotter, that would be great if there were someone who did though!

[@jenc7086]

Thank you! Do you have a code to get credit for my purchase?@@SewingMachineRehab

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hi again :) That link will do the trick! Thank you for asking!@@jenc7086

[@Graceofelegance]

My featherweight light comes on but the motor stop working? Do you have any suggestions?😪

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hi! Without seeing it, it would be hard for me to tell. I would unplug the machine, make sure the motor brushes are not worn down all the way and then I would check all the wiring. It could be a number of issues, sorry I can’t be of more help here!

[@dougshaw9701]

Curious..what is your education background?

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Hi, beyond high school, I have a little college and no degree. I’m self taught. My husband says I consume everything and I have my dad to thank for my mechanical abilities. That’s pretty much it!

[@Rob-mx9dq]

Adjusting the motor drive belt too tight ,only slows down the speed of the machine.

[@SewingMachineRehab]

Agreed!