How to tame Kodak Ektachrome 100 (Shooting & Scanning)

[@bagnome]

You cannot tame the 'Chrome. You have to beg it for mercy and treat it like the god that it is.

[@bagnome]

I haven't really thought about it, but Ektachrome having a blue cast to it really helps when projecting the film. Projector bulbs tend to produce a warmer light. Especially if they're halogen. So the blue cast cancels that out. I've always found projecting my Ektachrome slides to be the best way to view them and I guess that's why. I can't say the same for Velvia. That film seems to be warmer. Though it still looks great projected. Maybe it's just the way the light travels through the film and onto a screen that a scanner cannot replicate.

[@robinferand]

Thank you for the insight. I was never able to project my slide since I don't have a projector, but you make a good point. I just picked up some Fuji slide (Velvia/Provia) which I'm exited to try and see how they look.

[@ytuberization]

Bagnome, you are spot on. While the Ektachrome looks sometimes bluish in the shadows, this perfectly fits for the projectors. Other films like Provia look perfect on the light table, but too warm during projection.

[@shirtstealer86]

Thank you thank you for not adding music with a sloppy hip hop beat and a “retro” guitar sound. I swear all photography KZbinrs use the same stock beat maker nowadays. Good video also!!

[@monsieurjune924]

For first timers, try shooting E100 in full sun with a light meter. I shot my first roll (my first time shooting slide film) a couple months ago and got good results. Had a few underexposed frames when lighting was poor. The only drawback is the price of the film. Otherwise, I would shoot it more often!

[@AmbercoolPhotography]

Great tips!

[@SolekCheese]

This was extremely helpful. I want to master e100. I love the blue skies it produces.

[@carl_anderson9315]

I recently watched a KZbin video talking about the history of Kodak cameras and films, and it made me laugh so hard how they were talking about it as it was an ancient cavemen device, replaced by the clearly “superior” smartphones. I guess ignorance is bliss for most people. Specially when they don’t seem to understand what is the difference between a toy and a professional device.

[@sprucemoose3000]

Good tips thanks mate. I used to shoot velvia back in the day. Just got a roll of E100 it cost 50 NZD 😬 hence why I’m looking for info don’t want to stuff it up at that cost.

[@robinferand]

Thats tough. In Canada it’s 30 CAD which is also really expansive. I shot roll of Velvia 100 last fall. Ruined 70% of it. It has even less dynamic range than e100. But when you get it right, I really enjoy the colours from Velvia. e100 is more neutral though.

[@sprucemoose3000]

@@robinferand yea I’ve just mounted some velvia I took through my Nikon F100. Over exposed 90% of it. 🙄 was first 2 rolls I put through the camera after I got it. And I didn’t take notes either, so this year I must take notes for all my film photography.

[@AbdonPhirathon]

@@sprucemoose3000 If you set your F100 to Matrix Metering, it will expose slide film properly 90% of the time. Night scenes and or extremely high dynamic range situations like shooting directly into the sunset will yield mixed results. I shot my first few rolls of E100 on the F80 and set to Matrix Metering, and they all came out great, except the odd frame or two that was outside the dynamic range of the film. Nowadays, I shoot with an external light meter, and always avoid high dynamic range scenes. Slide film is too costly to be shooting it carelessly.

[@lst141]

Kodachrome 64 was the king

[@b6983832]

The only reason I didn't use very much this film was the fact you couldn't process it yourself. E-6 is quite easy - even the "correct" process with 6 steps. But Kodachrome was beautiful.

[@thesamuelputra]

Where do you go to develop & scan your film in Van. Island? I'm struggling to find a place I like

[@robinferand]

It's hard. For C41, I send it by mail to Kerrisdale Cameras Lab in Vancouver. For E6, I send it to France (NegatifPlus in Paris). For Black and white, I develop myself. All film rolls, I scanned myself as well.

[@thesamuelputra]

@@robinferand Thanks for the reply! I've been developing & scanning mine at Kerrisdale since the other alternative (Prism) is closed. But they're scans have been a hit or miss imo, looking to acquire a scanner. What scanner do you personally use/recommend? I've been looking into the Plusteks.

[@robinferand]

@@thesamuelputra mirrorless setup (r5C + 100mm macro lens) I used to have a flatbed scanner but it wasn’t my favourite (v660 Epson)

[@cryptobyt2403]

Simple. Object based. Meter on the object you want to be. Thats why slide better for product, portrait, object and geography

[@TerrellDoherty]

I love slide film !,,,

[@Grigori1am]

I have a question regarding an anomoly on one of the moon landing photos of wich I believe to be Kodak Ektachrome film.

[@Bussmicke2305]

The light table you have, which one is it? Seems interesting to be able to choose different color temperatures before scanning. A link to it would be nice. //Micke in Västerås,Sweden

[@robinferand]

It is the Cinestill CS-Lite Light source, great tool! There is a link in the description.

[@tonyfoulkes9289]

Never liked Kodak when i shot on 35mm . Used agfa then Fujifilm. Agfa was amazing slide,( reversal) film in 70,80 &90s. Kodak is $70.00 for 35mm slide film currently,plus processing. Enjoyed your presentation and explanation. Kaipara, New Zealand.

[@robinferand]

Thanks! Slide film is becoming quite expensive unfortunately yes.

[@rajs4719]

Great video

[@emielv7677]

Hmmm looks like I have to get myself a roll of e100. I've got a nikon f3. Would you recon the internal light meter is suitable for shooting e100?

[@robinferand]

Absolulety! I shot most of my E100 with a combo of F3. For contrasty scene, it's good to point the camera at different zones to see the difference in lighting and then you can take an average of the different readings.

[@emielv7677]

@@robinferand great! I will give it a try... iffff I can get my hands on a roll of e100. Thanks for sharing!

[@denisbaranov1367]

Just check it against the f16 sunny rule. If it doesn't work properly, go with a light meter app in the smartphone

[@shang-hsienyang1284]

Is the Vision 3 Ektachrome the same as Ektachrome? The datasheet curves look the same, but the Vision 3 is so much cheaper.

[@pedronunes6401]

Yes it is, e100 is more expensive cause it has to produce profits for kodak alarais and roschester, ehile vision 3 only for roschester

[@kennethakennetha]

just when i thought kodak portra is the epitome of film rolls

[@robinferand]

E100 isn’t as practical but when you nail the exposure, it’s so good.