How to Tell if a Guitar Needs a Neck Reset

Related video:
Bolt on vs Dovetail neck joints: • Acoustic Neck Joints: ...
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/ drewsguitarshop
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I wanted to make this video to help educate people who are looking to buy vintage and used acoustics on what to look out for.
It's not just guitars. You should also be keeping this in mind when looking at any fretted musical instrument, especially ones that have a lot of tension like 12 string guitars and mandolins.
This is one of the most common sad cases I get in the shop. There a a lot of people selling old acoustics on craigslist, reverb and ebay that need neck resets. They might put them up at a pretty good price so people buying those guitars think they are getting a good deal, when in reality they are saddling themselves up with a lemon that will need a lot of work to get it playing again. It's unfortunate, but I have had to break this bad news to a number of people who brought me guitars they bought thinking that they had gotten a great deal on.
Drew's Guitar Shop
West Seattle Guitar Repair
Used and Vintage Instruments
www.drewsguitarshop.com

[@37Dionysos]

I have a 1963 Martin 00-21, fantastic guitar---but it needed a neck reset. Took a lot of work to find a technician I could trust, but I went for it. It was like putting your child in the hospital for spinal surgery. Yet when it came back it was a NEW instrument, full of harmonics and tones never heard before, plus hugely easier to play. So---find the right tech, and go for it. Totally worthwhile!

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

It makes such a huge difference :)

[@atravelerofbothtimespace4172]

Glad to hear that went well ...cheers

[@dasistthomsen9]

Yeah because strings can/will get closer to sound hole

[@joq702]

Best explanation I have seen on knowing what to first look at in the neck for consideration of the purchase of a used guitar.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Thank you! I wish that more people watched this video or something like it because this really is a bummer of a thing to tell a customer and I have to do that kinda often.

[@HealthvsWealth4me]

Thank you for explaining this without going into technical specs etc. You made it very clear, understandable easy to watch/listen. Although I looked into this many years ago and understood at that time, I forgot what a neck reset is and why it's needed. Thank you!

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I really appreciate that feedback, thank you.

[@davidjoel5606]

Very nice and concise video and explanation. Every person purchasing a used acoustic should with and be informed of this! Well done, Drew!

[@redrock1963]

As a mechanic I understand that there are items on a vehicle that will need maintenance over the (good) functioning life of the car and an engine's head gasket (as mentioned here). In relation to guitars, a neck reset is a (simular) equivalent. The older the guitar is the closer it is coming to need a neck reset...yes even a high end Martin or Gibson. So don't let this guy put you off buying a guitar that needs a neck reset. I you do buy a guitar and do a neck reset on it, it just means that you are at it's most usable and freshest point for that aspect of the guitar.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

^ This is a good take. If its worth it to you to do a restoration on the guitar, then you will end up with a fine instrument once that work is done. It will take doing the work though.

[@ejdiii333]

Well My 37 year old Alvarez Regent is basically not good for anything but a wall hanger, as my neck looks just like your picture. I think I might just toss it, Being often over sentimental over all things I own, I have learn sometimes you just got to let go. And I wouldn't give it to anyone as it is junk, never mind ripping someone off by selling it. because I don't want to look at it all the time knowing it is unplayable, and sadly 4 decades of poor experiences with a few local guitar shops on lesser issues with other guitars and equipment would be spending more than the guitar is worth and poor results. I learned years ago never send an instrument in the mail, that is a nightmare I do not want to relive a third time. I'll just buy another as I paid a little under $200 in 1986, and I can get a brand new one, same make and model for the same price. Thankx for the well made video, made it easy for me to decide.

[@snuffyballparks6501]

Drew did a great job on my 1996 Guild JF-55 NT. He does excellent work.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I remember that job :) Thank you so much for the work!

[@dzl8596]

Great video Drew! One of the best explanations I've seen.

[@thunderbugcreative7778]

On a cheap guitar if you really wanted to make it playable one could remove the fretboard and reinstall with a shim. This gives two big advantages, first this is often easier especially on guitars with unknown neck joints/dowels/screws etc. and most importantly it allows you access to repair or install a new truss rod. Con: will have a long pie shaped edge binding but most will never notice or care.

[@patrii9100]

Thank you very much! I'm having these exact issues and I've tried everything else to make it work. Now I know what it needs to be done. Cheers!

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Glad I could help!

[@FraJa1980]

Another reason for high action might be a belly curve (the bridge pulling the soundboard up) i've fixed a few of these by doing "the poor mans neck reset" meaning i shave the bridge (the wood) down as well as the bridge piece and deepen the string channels coming from the peg holes so the break angle over the bone won't get to shallow. After that i sand and oil the wooden bridge with some linseed oil to protect it. It's not as "good a job" as a real neck reset of course and there's only so far you can go with this method but it's way more doable for the average Joe than removing frets and steaming a neck out, all you need is a scraper, some sandpaper, a dremel tool and some patience to get some extra years out of an old guitar you don't want to spend more on than it's worth.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I discuss why that isn't an option with this guitar at about 8:15. Its sometimes possible to do a bridge planing is there is enough material on the bridge to shave some down and still have a viable bridge, but in cases where the saddle is low and the bridge is low, its generally not an option. Not to be critical of things that are working for you, but linseed oil is whats called a "drying oil" and you typically want to avoid using a drying oil like linseed, tung or the like on guitars as they dry and create a hard and permanent sort of shell. The usual go to oil for treating bridges and fretboards by most luthiers I know or have trained under is lemon oil, and I know some old timers that like to use kerosine.

[@rodneywatkins4731]

Very helpful! I have an acoustic with the exact same issues. It’s a cheap Yamaha, I hve zero experience and planning on doing a neck reset myself.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Buddy, you oughta research that first. Yamaha neck resets are one of the hardest to the point that its a topic on luthier forums frequently. I would get a harmony as your first reset.

[@flynnhuseby3431]

Very helpful! Thanks so much for the detail and information.

[@yetivanmarshall1473]

Ty, I'm going to look at a 72 guild d 40 today. The owner says it's never had a neck reset or any major repairs. He's asking $1250. This helps me a lot ty

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Guilds are pretty annoying resets to do. Most places will charge more for them if they take them at all.

[@XenoTravis]

This one looks a bit extreme but have you tried to see if it could be from a the wood sinking in? There is a cheap device that let's you drop a sponge in between the strings to sit in the port hole and for 3ish days while adding water back in every day, it may help.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

That would raise the string height if anything. Dryness lowers the belly, moisture raises it. (40% RH is always recommended)

[@hakanaxlund4316]

Excellent run through. Great, thanks.

[@thomasszejnmann3917]

Very good video! But I would like to add one point: Depending on your taste not every guitar needs a high bridge. OK, with a high bridge the sound will be louder and will have more bass power. But oft times I did "the poor man´s neck reset": plained the wood lower, sometimes even routed a deeper slot, made 6 little slots to lead the string downwards into the hole. Most times I liked the result: a faster attack, clearer, less boomier bass notes, more nice overtones. The guitars became very clear and bright and were easier to play also with the right hand. In some cases I liked them better than the same model of the same brand with correct neck angle.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

As mentioned in the vid, lowering the saddle or bridge is an option if you have the room to do so, but if you do not, and you have done what you can with the neck and nut, then the neck reset really is your last remaining option for getting the action down to a normal setup.

[@mojoefelix]

@@DrewsGuitarShop Is it true that as the bridge/saddle height is lowered that the guitar loses bass or fullness of tone? (I have a very expensive low-saddle guitar that sounds thin and I would get a neck reset done in a heartbeat if I thought it would bring out some fullness.)

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

@@mojoefelix yes.

[@eljeffe9545]

Great video, very clear and detailed explanation.

[@ohreally8929]

Exactly! Not a lot of extra yacking like in many videos, just a well thought out, clear and easy to understand presentation.

[@stringpicker5468]

Heaven's above. Just put a good straight edge down the frets and see where it meets the bridge. It should be about 1/8" or so above it. If it is more than an eighth below it a neck reset is required. Good explanation of the reasoning but the test is simple.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Most people don't own a straight edge.

[@daviddouglas7950]

Hey Drew, Very informative and clear. Much appreciated. Thanks a lot, Dave in the Adirondacks

[@heavypizzas6004]

Excellent informative video thanks Drew

[@Briansmusic-]

Why not pull the inlay and drill the holes at a slight angle. it's much easier to do that and to fill and cover the holes? I do it when the opportunity arises. If it does not have a block inlay I can see pulling the fret and drilling there.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

To each their own. I’m a creature of habit and I prefer to pull the fret because that’s how I learned and have always done it.

[@Briansmusic-]

@@DrewsGuitarShop I can respect that!

[@jeffreyschmoldt7798]

Thanks. I almost bought a Epiphone FT-570 BL with the same issue..

[@joq702]

Here is a question I have seen answered before but would like more of your opinion. I really enjoyed your I nonsense explanation as to intonation issue when the action at the 12th is this high. I have experienced this. When it is that high off the fretboard, the depression downward is not only difficult, it is stretching the string to a pitch which is not going to match the note it should be at the 12th. There is a design limitation of the max height to the tone it will emit when depressed downward. If the height is too high, that design is no longer achievable and you get an awful intonation as you go up the fretboard. Here is the question. When a professional does the work, a neck reset, like you, do you think the guitar geometry will hold or will it continue to be flexed back, springing back, over time? Some have commented on other guitar forums that the guitar geometry should hold for many, many years.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

All acoustics will need neck resets. Their geometry will all change with age and tension.

[@davidstevens2555]

Good video. Thanks

[@philthompson9633]

On cheaper Guitars you can do a kung Foo reset. Buy sawing the neck off at the body …removing the fretboard at the 14 fret basically turning it into a bolt on neck. If the customer just can’t part with it! Much easier.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I'd only recommend it in instances where you cant get the neck off by normal means.

[@jasperpearson4624]

thank you this was extremely helpful :)

[@jixxxxer17]

isn't there a simple test you can do with a straight edge placed on the fret board to the bridge and get a visual of the neck angle with the straight edge ? Nice Video i learned good things to know, Peace !

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Most people don't have a straight edge laying around so I try not to use tools that a laymen won't have. If you do want to take that measurement though, you adjust neck relief first and then lay the straight edge on the board and bring it up to the bridge. If its healthy, the corner of the straight edge should kiss the front corner of the bridge.

[@jixxxxer17]

@@DrewsGuitarShop Great Advice appreciated much, Peace !

[@mydirtyguitar1638]

yes, yes !

[@FIGGY65]

@@DrewsGuitarShop . Hello Drew. I’m late to the party , but this was a great little video. How does this straight edge vs the bridge height landing work for the typical Harmony/Kay vintage archtop? What’s the general area of the saddle/bridge ( with a non adjustable truss rod )for the straight edge check? I appreciate your time! Shawn

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

@@FIGGY65 That’s a lot to explain in a KZbin comment. Archtops are a bit different.

[@jayscrappa8296]

Great video. Thanks so much!

[@chic3979]

Thanks Drew👍

[@FriendM2010]

Learned some stuff 👍

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I'm glad to hear it!

[@joeyoungs8426]

If it says Martin on the label then yes it does.

[@BinuralOdyssey]

You're here because you bought that guitar that needs a neck reset right off the bat.

[@leam1978]

i didn't know that the neck wasn't supposed to be parallel to the rest of the body. very surprised that it would naturally move. i guess wood is really just more flexible than i thought.

[@tomformanek3312]

I'm not sure it's simply flexibility. Lots of string tension on wood that dries and ages and settles in. Tongue falloff, humps and truss rod limits along with the incredibly disappearing saddles all require an expert evaluation.

[@leam1978]

@@tomformanek3312 lots of that didn’t make sense to me because I’m a sculptor, not a musician, but it seems that the wood give would be a part of it?

[@tomformanek3312]

@@leam1978 Guitar necks on better instruments are attached with a large dovetail joint and glued in place. You want resonance in the body of an acoustic not the neck.

[@ultimatemassive9501]

Just picked up a 1971 Yamaha FG-180 for $130 that needs a neck reset. Since the guitar isn't worth investing $400-600 into having it done professionally, I'm considering giving it a try myself and treating it as a learnIng experience. The worst-case scenario is that I end up with some cool wall art for the man cave.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Yamahas are a notoriously hard one to do a neck reset on. I suggest a lot of research before an attempt.

[@ultimatemassive9501]

@@DrewsGuitarShop that's my understanding. Apparenty, they used epoxy in some of the models. I'm initially going to try the method in which you apply steam to the neck joint from the sound hold with the guitar/neck braced while applying downward force on the neck. I've seen people have success, albeit limited with this method. It also has some belly buldge, so I'm hoping a bridge doctor and poor mans neck reset will have it playing better. If not, I'll try to tackle a proper neck reset.

[@20iambeautiful]

Thanks so much. Looking into getting a vintage harmony archtop. A lot of them need neck resets. But some don't. I now know what to buy and what not to buy. Thanks so much!

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Oh yeeeeeaaaahhh, those are a pretty common offender in this. So many of those have been brought in by people thinking that they got good deals and they are usually pretty badly in need of a neck reset. Archtops need a particularly steep neck pitch in order to take a good setup.

[@zapa1pnt]

You forgot to mention the possibility of a "belly bulge" behind the bridge causing high action. If the instrument has a "belly bulge", that needs to be addressed First, before doing a neck reset. If the bulge is taken care of After a reset, another reset will, very possibly, be needed. BTDT.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

In most cases, thats going to be the result of humidification thats too high. Not always, but most of the time. In instances where the belly is deformed due to other issues, its still a good idea to get a pro to look at it. In a lot of cases a guitar might need both a reset and to address a belly if it has one.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Its also worth mentioning that most modern "flat top" guitars have a radius. Usually about 50', sometimes less or more. Measuring this to see if its appropriate for the guitar usually requires some tools.

[@zapa1pnt]

@@DrewsGuitarShop: Still, as I mentioned, the belly should be addressed first, to avoid a lot of heartache, later.

[@zapa1pnt]

@@DrewsGuitarShop: Anything referred to as a "belly" or "Bulge" will be a whole lot less and a lot more noticeable, than a 50' radius.

[@rcote1234]

Bridge looks like it is lifting also...

[@crockie2230]

Gotta appreciate Taylors bolt on style necks

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

And Collings and garrison and seagull. More and more makers are getting on board with this. Its a good thing IMO

[@TMoody]

Very nice/informative video.... I am seeing more and more guitars like this one.... low saddle but high action.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

It's a very common condition to find older guitars in.

[@JulianFernandez]

thanks so much!

[@garyyeigh6098]

If the neck joint is tight it is possible to take the back off jack it back straight and glue the back on at the new angle. Of course that is not easy either.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

That sounds like something you should research. I have heard about people doing things like that, but this is not how I learned to deal with this issue from any of my mentors and I have never had the need to deal with it that way rather than do a normal neck reset.

[@garyyeigh6098]

Drew Jones you are right if the body is straight and no work needs to be done inside it is the only course to take, if the body has cracks and isn’t straight plus braces to glue back taking the back off is the best option, enjoyed you video.

[@Candaluk]

Great video

[@masterzippo121]

Thank you

[@frankdow472]

Average cost for neck reset ? $300 or more . That guitar you were referencing to is like my 76 takamine f340 . Love the the guitar n comfortable to play but I think it needs s neck reset . Probably get it done just because I love the guitar .

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

That guitar may or may not take one. Vintage Japanese guitars are really hit and miss when it comes to neck resets.

[@curtiseverett1671]

but still.... NO ONE can tell me what to do when the warp is the opposite so frustrating. Kind of like a back bow, but it's the whole neck past the body.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

This video is specifically about neck joints and pitch. The only mention here about the neck itself is regarding the relief and whether that can be used to reduce string height. I do have other videos about twisted necks and things like that, but without seeing your guitar it's hard to determine what a good fix might be. Offhand I'd take it to a shop for a setup. It's probably fixable.

[@curtiseverett1671]

Thanks, I have a shop and I work on guitars, but I am not a real luthier, I am a hobbyist......I know how to do truss rod adjustments, but that's not what it is. I have had this happen to three or four guitars, because I left them in the garage in the desert, but I didn't have any other place to put them. It's weird. It's almost like they need to be steamed straight or something...... Oh well, live and learn. Thanks, and have a great day. @@DrewsGuitarShop

[@oldpicker49]

screws in a pick guard

[@ranman58635]

I am by no means an expert but I saw many other issue's with that guitar besides needing a neck reset. First observation was, the screws that were attached to the pick gaurd. Are not those typse of guards glued down? And why would thry need screws? Is the top warped as well as it looks like the saddle and bridge is sagging with a bit of a wave beneath it? Am I missing something? I'd take a look see inside to inspect the bracing. Perhaps it's come loose somewhere and is aiding that dip?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

It's a cheaply built guitar as I stated in the video. It has other issues that I did not talk about because those were not on topic for this video. Screw on pick guards are something you see sometimes.

[@Therapyxx]

Hey There! Yeah on this guitar it seems really terrible. But what if - after a best possible setup on my saddle I sanded off on high E string to the lowest possible value, just a little bit left, so that the string will not touch the bridge. But anyways - I still have 2.0mm on High E with healthy neck relief (as you said, business card, maybe a bit less than that). It seems that wooden past of the bridge is high enough to be sanded off, but I really dont wanna do this, as the guitar is still on warranty (8 months old). Does it mean that I have to apply my warranty opportunity and ask for a neck reset? Ideally I would like to prepare: 1st: 1.5mm, 2nd: 1.7mm, 3rd: 1.9mm, 4th: 2.1mm, 5th: 2.3mm, 6th: around 2.8mm. But 1-2 strings are 100% not manageble to get such values.

[@hni7458]

Please remember if you sand down the saddle, that you lose string break angle at the same time - very important so look out esp if its under warranty.

[@brianlegg6009]

What is "Dry Steam"? How is that possible?

[@globewalker99]

Hello Drew. Good info. I'm surprised you don't mention using a straight edge across the fret board to see if it hits just at the top of the bridge to see if neck angle is good. I have always heard that to be a good check when looking to buy an acoustic. I know belly bow can also affect the bridge and therefore action as well.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I generally try to assume that folks watching these videos won't have the toolset that I do at the shop, but yeah, when I have a customer in front of me, shoring them that straight edge is usually when they go "oh.." when talking neck angle. The belly in a guitar can for sure be a factor too, but, you typically want to see somewhere around a 50' radius in the top of a modern "flat top" and people sometimes really freak out when they notice that for the first time. Its normal and healthy and will drift up or down due to humidity. If something comes in with a high belly, I am going to try setting that instrument in a optimal humidity environment for a while before jumping the gun on some of the crazy solutions I see tossed around for that. Often times, when I have someone talk to me about the belly in the guitar, its either normal and fine, or they have been over humidifying it. Rarely do I see anything else.

[@mademepickaname]

Thanks for this helpful video. How much below the top of the bridge would the fretboard have to be before it’s considered problematic? And do you base it on the straightedge laying on top of the frets or the fretboard itself (requiring a notched straightedge)?

[@jelly8594]

Great video! 👍☺

[@cowtippingrocks]

definitely leave it to the pros!

[@paulboden7850]

Do heavier gauge strings put more pressure on the neck joint and increase the likelihood of neck issues and high action?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

You should always have a guitar setup for the strings you are going to use. Heavy gause strings do have more tension and that of course translates to more tension on the instrument, but it does not = high action. It may speed up wear on the instrument and may increase the likelihood of joint failure under stress but assuming we are talking about run of the mill strings that were made for the type of guitar you have, I wouldn't worry about using them. Again, as long as the guitar is setup for them.

[@tonymelendez9295]

Since Steam is water, how can it be dry as it will start to condense as soon as its temperature drops below the boiling point of water.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I am not a chemist, but that is what I was told to call steam that has been put through a moisture trap like the one I have on my unit. Whether that is correct or not I can't say for 100% certainty but I have seen it repeated elsewhere.

[@tombaker8045]

Dry steam ?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Thats what I was told to call steam that has been processed through a moisture trap. I might be wrong about the term but I feel its important to specify using a moisture trap.

[@ineedstuff8286]

who would even want this... better off spending the time to grow more trees, and process them into guitar of choice. An incredibly skilled task to carry out though... HUGE talent and workmanship

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Sometimes the guitar is worth the work.

[@nyacoustics8373]

I have a similar situation on my old Japanese acoustic. My action is 16/64th at the 12th fret the thick e string. Is it possible to get it down to spec of around 5/65 or 6/64 with a setup only?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I don’t know. As I explained here there are lots of factors to look at and without the instrument in front of me its impossible to say what's possible.

[@ishrakhaider9654]

My guitar has a curve at the center of the neck where I can't adjust it with truss rod adjustment. What do I do?!! Plz help

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I can't really diagnose a problem if I can't see it. Make sure you are turning the truss rod nut in the correct direction and that you are measuring with a feeler gage and strait edge to see movement. It may be reverse the normal direction. Be careful you don’t strip it, pop the fretboard off or crack the back of the neck.

[@handsomeasiandude1126]

Someone told me a brand new guitar can “likely” already come with a maxed out truss rod. Is this true?? Also how many setups does it take to max out a truss rod?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Watch my video on truss rods. Its usually not the case

[@handsomeasiandude1126]

@@DrewsGuitarShop ok. I’m not an enthusiast but a guitar tech/rabbi dude who is 70 and has decades of experience told me this. He set up my brand new mij Jaguar just 2 days ago and informed me it can no longer be setup because truss rod has already been “maxed out”. Kinda ticked me off deep down but he said it’s because wood from Asia is “still green” and needs to dry more before it gets put on a body so this problem is common. He did a great setup but said I would have to get a new neck for future setups. Was he full of it maybe? Second time hiring him and we have always been nice to each other but I might be dealing with a dishonest tech for some reason. PLEASE HELP

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

@@handsomeasiandude1126 Sounds like his statements are overly broad and overly general tbh. There often a way to get a little more out of a truss trod adjustment but that goes beyond the scope of what I'd want to talk about in KZbin comments. I have a Ko-fi and and patreon. I'd be happy to talk to you about this in detail if contacted through though sites. Links in the description.

[@allanpennington]

My 74 D35 Martin has worn frets, (beyond the 4th fret too). Would it be best to do a refret first before deciding on a neck reset? The last setup was done by a 'qualified' tech and the nut and saddle replaced, however the action is still a little high and the guitar is stiff to play even at the bottom end. The action could only be lowered so much due to fret wear. Would it be best to do a refret first before deciding on a neck reset?

[@Iazzaboyce]

I don't see how fret wear would prevent a guitar having low action, as worn frets a more likely to be a problem with high action. I would take a look at the height of the strings off the frets. Put a capo on the first fret and see how that plays. If this is notably more comfortable and there's no buzzing then it would suggest the strings could be lowered at the nut. Keeping the capo in place, fret the strings at the body fret. You should now see a slight plectrum width gap between strings and frets 6&7. Now look at the height of the strings off the body fret; this should be no more than a quarter inch. So if you have that plectrum width gap at frets 6&7 you can safely lower the saddle and adjust the nut slots. If you're not confident or don't have the tools, take the guitar to someone with a good reputation.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

@@Iazzaboyce I am not sure how a tech would have determined your frets are an issue, but normally, I only take frets into account with my setups if they are unlevel in a way that prevents me from setting the action as low as I would like. If the frets are low over all, that shouldn’t be a problem, but if you have fretwear that would be another story. You should do the neck reset first and then do the refret after in the same trip if you want my opinion. Its *nice* when you can do a refret following a neck reset. If you do the refret before, you may have to pay for fretwork twice and get a level crown and polish you shouldn’t have needed.

[@Facundomastrocololuthier]

Very good information! How much does this job cost? Thanks a lot! From Argentina

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I charge about $450 usd

[@Facundomastrocololuthier]

@@DrewsGuitarShop thank you! I am luthier from argentina of clasic guitars!

[@billyfreeze1893]

Hi ,nice video I’ve been playing a long time I am familiar with truss rod adjustments on electric and & acoustic full size guitars .Do the same checks apply to a 3/4 classical guitar ? or should finger placement and tapping be done on different frets? The guitar also has a truss rod I’m hesitant to turn before I know-Thank you

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Classical guitars traditionally have a dead flat board or very little if any relief. When I get one in that has a truss rod, that is what I use as my benchmark for adjustment.

[@masonblacklaws8821]

I believe I have this with my electric guitar. I made the mistake of taking all my strings off instead of doing one string a time. As I was tuning the strings I noticed the bridge was being pulled up with the strings and the strings were not near as close at they were before.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I don't think that sounds like a neck reset scenario, but maybe if it's a strat style guitar that the setup isn't appropriate to the strings you are using. Hard to say without seeing the instrument or knowing what kind it is, but electrics rarely need neck resets. I think you should get your instrument assessed by a pro.

[@vwdlamont]

How much would a neck reset cost? Is the price of a neck reset very on the work ? or if it needs a reset the price is the same all guitars?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I generally charge around $450 if I have to steam a dovetail. Less if the neck is already off or mostly loose. I charge about $200 for modern guitars with bolt on necks such as taylor and garrison. The price is based on the hours it typically takes to do the job. The more complex the job, the more expensive it will typically be.

[@bobaldo2339]

In order to avoid future neck resets caused by string tension over time pulling the neck up, some high end guitars are now being made with the necks set angled downward (back) too much, making them hard to play, and the bridge saddle needing a shim, right out of the box. I kid you not. They are to be avoided.

[@stephensimpson2359]

Compare the price & complexity of adding a shim to that of a neck reset. I'll take the shim thank you. And if you don't like the idea of a shim because you think it sucks tone you can replace the saddle with a higher saddle, all an order of magnitude cheaper, easier and as effective as a neck reset.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

That angle is called "neck pitch" and it normal and desirable on new guitars for reasons that are discussed in this video. The saddle height would need to be adjusted after the nut and neck had been dialed in and dependent on where the strings were at that point to get the action within acceptable playability.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

@@stephensimpson2359 @Bob_Aldo, Ya'll are talking about a bit of a different thing here I think. the reason you shim a saddle is that the saddle is TOO LOW and causes a setup that is also too low, which is the opposite of the issue cause by a guitar that needs a neck reset where you will have a saddle that is too low on a guitar that still has a setup that is too high. So, a shimmed saddle would not be an appropriate alternative to a neck reset.

[@bobaldo2339]

​@@DrewsGuitarShop Negative relief relieves absolutely nothing! I am talking about a full sized, uncut Martin factory saddle that has never been lowered at all, that because of the neck being improperly set in the brand new D-28 (which the famous dealer freely admitted was so Martin could avoid warranty repairs way down the road) had to have a shim under the saddle just to make the guitar marginally playable. I have been playing acoustic guitars since the 1950's, and have never encountered such a stupidly set neck by any maker! Of course they took this D-28 back, and totally understood why.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

@@bobaldo2339 It sounds like a lot could hacve been going on there. Neck pitch can be too much in which case if you want to set up the guitar right you may need a taller saddle. The saddle hight is determined by where the strings land after working the nut and relief. The saddle will be trimmed, generally, at the factory in order to dial in the string hight once the nut and neck are properly dialed in. Where all that lands is dependent on the neck pitch belly and bridge hight. There are a lot of factors.

[@paulcowart3174]

Need one on a 69 Gibson 12 string Could you ballpark a price for me I'm shopping around Thanks

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Gibsons are a pain to do neck resets on because they finish the guitar after the neck has been joined to the body causing a thick bead of finish along that seam. I’d probably charge around $500-$550 for doing that and caution you that there may be visible finish touch ups around the neck joint.

[@26chrisi]

One of my acoustics has a neck that isn't completely straight. It bends slightly downward toward where it meets the body. It still plays and sounds fine but not as good as it used to. Would a neck reset fix this problem?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I am not sure if what you are describing is normal fretboard fallaway or if there might be a fallen transverse brace or other issue. Do you have a back-bowed neck? I think that bringing it into a shop would probably be the best thing to do.

[@dlmullins9054]

I can tell you how... if it is a Taylor, then yes it needs a neck reset every year or two.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

That seems like it might be something going on. Taylors are getting around the age that some need it, but generally its no more often than any other acoustic.

[@MrMongo321]

What about a bolt-on neck? Does most of this vid also relate to electric guitars?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Fender style bolt on neck angle issues are easy, you simply shim them. This video would be mostly applicable to set neck electric guitars as well, though, set neck electrics don't tend to age in the same way as acoustics.

[@lucaswelshmusic7607]

May not be worth repairing, but thays the type of guitar for a first timer to try on in my opinion.

[@hymnsake]

What type shape inlays are those? Been looking for that style for a while now

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

"Shrunk" lol, just kidding, I think if you search "block inlays" you will find what you are looking for.

[@moonglow757]

is a lignatone antique worth resetting the neck?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I'd say that depends on what shape the guitar is in and what it means to you to have it playing.

[@northyland1157]

just needs inverted saddle. and skip the neck reset.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Not sure what you mean by an "inverted saddle" but my 20 years and every teacher I have ever had + my time at Roberto Venn say this guitar needs a neck rest to play properly. Care to explain?

[@northyland1157]

@@DrewsGuitarShop Its when you route out a hole where the saddle is.. Its really tall so glued on the back inside panel.. then it comes up though the hole where the old saddle was.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

@@northyland1157 I am having some difficulty making sense of what you are saying here. Are you suggesting routing a hole all the way through the bridge and soundboard etc so that you have a cavity going all the way into the body of the guitar and then installing a glued in saddle of some sort from the inside? The issue that necessitates a neck reset as I showed here in the video is that the bridge and saddle are as low as they can go and action cannot be set properly wither at the bridge or by dialing in the neck or nut. I don't think that severally modifying the way that the bridge works is a better solution on a guitar that should have a neck reset. At least, I am not going to suggest it to the next customer I have with a vintage martin that needs a neck reset.

[@northyland1157]

Maybe that would only work on an electric guitar due to all the bracing on acoustic.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

@@northyland1157 Now I am really confused about what the initial post was about.

[@Arnd2it]

Unless there is great sentimental value involved, this is the type of guitar you donate to a 'luthier in training' to practice on. Then you buy a new one to replace it.

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Or its one you run experiments on. I ended up using some non-conventional techniques on this guitar to fix the neck angle and sold it in fine working condition.

[@shaunmcgraw5083]

Good instruction, well explained. Don't mean to sound like a blowhard, but unlike the word "width", the word "height" has no th sound at the end. It's pronounced hite. Cheers!

[@mikecabral1579]

What is dry steam???

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Steam that has gone through a moisture trap in this case.

[@johnbee1069]

Dry steam is steam that is at the temperature of saturation, but does not contain water particles in suspension. It has a very high dryness fraction, with almost no moisture. Commercially, dry steam contains not more than one half of one percent moisture.

[@alext9067]

@@DrewsGuitarShop No, steam that's gone thru a moisture trap can still be considered not dry if has dropped in temp. Dry steam is simply hot enough to cause all the water to be turned into gas...what we call...wait for it....STEAM.

[@alext9067]

@@johnbee1069 You mean that dry steam is steam that is dry?

[@uncleguitarnerd782]

what guitar is that?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I say in the video, but it’s a mid 60s Decca.

[@sagheerahmad-hw9tq]

I can't hear you 😭😭😭

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

I don't know what to tell you, I can hear it on my phone and computer.

[@sagheerahmad-hw9tq]

@@DrewsGuitarShop ohh don't worry brother,I mean the voice is a little bit low,but you are completely audible ❤️😅

[@edwinsulabo5081]

To much talking bro.

[@stephenvice1019]

A.D.D. much?

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ You can always click on some other video if you don't want a detailed explanation, because that's what I do here.

[@peterlundgren8090]

No this is not right !

[@DrewsGuitarShop]

Peter, I have a education from Roberto Venn, have studied under several experienced and professional builders and repairmen, worked in several pro guitar shops doing building and repair, and 15 years of experience. The information I have put into this video is the same as I was taught by every one of my teachers and is the criteria I use not only to determine if the instrument needs a reset, but also what measurements I should use when performing it. I may have left out one or two things that weren't important for players/buyers that one would need to perform a neck reset, but the information here is good as far as my experience, education and background would say.

[@jelly8594]

@@DrewsGuitarShop don't worry. Don't let nonsense comments like this irritate you, just ignore or delete them. I love your videos!

[@alext9067]

What's wrong? Speak up. We are listening.

[@davidstevens2555]

Good video. Thanks