How to tell if your VW engine is running hot

[@miltcarlton2593]

I was raised on VW"s. 1957 beetle, '58 8 passenger bus, '59 Westfailia Camper, 1966 Beetle. We drove from Corvallis, OR to Iowa (temps in the high 90"s). From there on up to Canada, then back down to US through Maine and on to Washington, DC. Then back across to Oregon. The engine would sometimes be so hot that it would continue to try to run after the ignition was turned off. Easiest solution was to put the bus in low and let the clutch out as the ignition was turned off. Definitely wore gloves when checking the oil. Oil consumption was nil as long as it was changed at the VW prescribed interval of 1000 or 1500 hundred miles (straight 20 wt winter, 30 wt in summer). There were no multi-viscosity oils yet. In Arizona people ran 40 or 50 weight oil. That camper had over 100,000 miles on it when my father traded it. Still no use of oil. Valves adjust every 3000 miles. He followed the booklet that said what to do when and was then stamped by the dealer as they were done. I don't know why today I hear of over heated engines. If left stock with servicing done as was prescribed, I think almost all of the air-cooled VW's would have run just as well as my father's cars. The best advice for all air-cooled VW's is to not lug them. I'd love to have my old 1957 VW Beetle back. I bought it with over 80,000 miles on it. Followed the booklet, and got a new book at 100,000 miles. Sold it to a friend having had no problems. It finally did need a new clutch. Milage: 143,000

[@ericknoblauch9195]

My mother always used non detergent 30 Weight oil in her VW's. She never used multi weight oils. Also she did have valves adjusted like you did here. Her 1965 bus had a lot of miles on it, and the odometer rolled over more than once. It did overheat once because someone put the wrong belt pulley back on when they did some work once. The wrong pulley caused the belt to slip off. The pulley was from a later VW engine. She also had a later bay window bus that always had to have engines replaced because the valves would get sucked down into the crankcase. Her 1965 bus was the one that never had any trouble, and racked up the miles. She paid $1750. For it in 1967 with 37,000 miles. When she sold it in 1996 the odometer had rolled over several times, and she got $1500. for it. That was before vintage VW's started to climb in value. I have also seen our 1965 bus on the road quite a few times recently. It is still running to this day.

[@mikehammer4546]

Mike, I’m surprised that you didn’t talk about the oil pressure and too thick of oil causing the motor to run hot. I was chasing a hot running issue and found the valvoline VR1 20-50w was too thick and caused the oil pressure to be too high. I changed to VR1 10-30w which dropped the oil pressure and opened the control circuit so oil could flow through the stock oil cooler. Might be worth mentioning.

[@Ratkill9000]

From the bit I've read, the engine is most happy at 350⁰F to 400⁰F. They do make cylinder head temperature gauges. Has a small probe that is a small washer that takes the place of a spark plug washer. Put it on cylinder 3 and put the gauge on the dash.

[@With-respect]

They sell small metal tabs that you use a “glue” to attach it to cylinder heads, at temps to high the flu will melt and drop the little tab off. (One method)

[@felixkalali4752]

Thanks Mike for the very sober and tested theory as you called it, I believe it works. We've been killing our Bugs with some of these "dont you dares" to cover up for initial overlaps and lapses. I did side scoops as per 1 of your videos, they work! I also did a "crazy" 1 put undercar airscoops on both sides directing air(pipes) to cylinders and jugs and 1 to fun. It works!! I'd way in 2003 installed your last item a cooler blowing cool moist air to the fun it works!! I only removed due to noise but will re-install. Thanks and sorry for the long read. Happy Holidays.

[@martinharris5017]

I'm a convert to Cool-Tins on the Type 1 motor thanks to Mike's recommendation. They work great!

[@K7ZUZ]

I've watched 100s of your vids. And I know a few things about VWs. John Muir was our hero back in the early 70s...ur probably the closest thing, on these youtube channels, to his OCD level of the Basics. Including the non-stock projects, tests and situations, all abundant. Mostly enjoy the local events. Carry on brother.

[@Mikefngarage]

thanks so much for the comment.

[@CTmoog]

Good tips Mike! Thanks for sharing!

[@benshore7357]

I have heard that the type 3 tin actually restricts air flow around the cylinders and forces more air to the heads which is where most of the heat is generated.

[@benkrom2737]

Impossible not to notice belt breaks. Without any resistance from fan and generator will make your bug feel like it's a 6 cylinder until it overheats .

[@Mikefngarage]

ALWAYS RUN PREMIUM FUEL ON YOUR AIR COOLED VW. premium fuel burns faster than regular gas and therefore it is a cooler faster burn.

[@OkFixer]

I’m not trying to pee in your post toasties, and I mean this in the nicest way..........ummmmmm, no......premium fuel actually is LESS volatile than regular gas. It burns more evenly and less explosive because of the chemical composition. It has anti knock additives in it. Yes....always use premium in air cooled engines. But probably the Germans didn’t even have anything more than 87 octane during the 50s and 60s They ran their Messerschmitts on 87 during the war. Also, if you use the correct parts for your car....distributors, thermostats, camshafts. And if you have all the ORIGINAL tin and seals, with all the parameters set correctly...dwell, point gap, timing, valves etc. your engine will NEVER run hot. When you try to out engineer VW With huge cams, huge dual carbs, wacky race/ sawmill distributors and 2300 cc engines that make 300 hp for twenty minutes.......things go wrong quickly, and expensively.

[@TheKmdelm]

Is is pumping a 95 Octane is better for the engine ? In terms of cooling , I’m guessing it wouldn’t give the extended mileage because of carb operated ? Rookie ( VW 1977 Late Bay )

[@Mikefngarage]

@@TheKmdelm If you have high compression like 9 to 1 or more it might run cooler with it. Or in summer when cylinder head temps are higher. Higher temps = higher pressure. Might be a good idea. Winter really would not help under 80 Fahrenheit under 8.5 to 1.

[@tacoman864]

Awesome video. I have an 1835 with a sump 1.5 qt of extra oil, always use 15w40 mobil1 she never runs hot

[@Mikefngarage]

Thanks for sharing

[@marlonalva]

I don’t what they say, I buying these tins right now! 👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻

[@Mikefngarage]

really makes a big difference especially when you have a merged header.

[@TedBishop1]

informative video Mike I like your approach and your attitude count me as a subscriber !

[@Mikefngarage]

thanks got lots of good stuff coming thanks for watching.

[@pablovdr6539]

Hi Mike...any problem with the type1 sled tins and type 3 cool tins ??...my best

[@timathysills26]

Hay Mike. Looking to add a water mister system to help cool the engine. Message me if you can. Would like to ask you a few questions

[@reddmann2216]

How about an electric fan installed under rear hood? To help cool?

[@vulturedroid9804]

Great info im always learning.

[@ciscoxzy]

one of those infrared hand held thermometer would be handy to keep in your bug

[@onehappykombi]

Great info Mike, a couple of questions for a similar build to your 74mm stroker. Im going for a 88mm thick wall with 74mm crank: - Can I run a single 34PICT3 with this setup? - Can I still run a stock style exhaust system? - If I don't want to go crazy on the cam, would you recommend the Engle 100 or just stock? This is for a traveling bus, no need to race any bugs, just get to the trailhead without overheating. Torque is our friend, don't care about HP. Thank you !!

[@Mikefngarage]

sure it should run fine. I had a friend who did a 92x74 with a pic 34 ran great!!! is your case OK?

[@Mikefngarage]

if your going to have it line bored have them cut for 90.5 it works better. and if your heads are bad you can buy the AA performance ones that are already cut for 90.5 or better yet go 92 thick wall and get the 94 heads. Super torque monster with stock carb. you may need to trim the piston skirts on the 88s with the 74...the 90.5 drop right in. no trimming. that is why I say.

[@onehappykombi]

You are amazing Mike, thank you!! Not sure if the case is OK, I mean… the engine is running so it should be rebuildable. I have to tear it apart and learn. Hope all is well with you 🤙🏻

[@scottwallace3449]

Eventually I may like to upgrade my engine with oil temp & head sensors with temp dash mounted gauges. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks!

[@Mikefngarage]

most important is head temp then oil if you can only do one the head temp is the most important.

[@scottwallace3449]

I’m wondering if you’re familiar with these? There’s a bit of a story on the development of these to overcome problems with the discontinued VDO version. www.discountegauges.com/cyl-head-temp-vdo-cockpit-cylinder-head-temperature-kit-310-901-p-127.html

[@knockout818]

Sell me that bus Cheap! I’ll be your number 1 fan

[@chivosadventures8171]

Haha I thought the only way to find out if your VW was overheating was when it catches on fire. 😂😂

[@Mikefngarage]

yea yea burn that decklid

[@whatsstefon]

No, that’s when it’s too late. Hahahaha

[@ericknoblauch9195]

If your fan belt breaks or comes off you end up with no air circulating in the fan that circulates down to cool your engine. There is a fan inside of the metal shroud that the generator bolts into. The fan is behind the generator. When the belt breaks, the fan does not work or move. My mother had a belt slip off of her 1965 bus with a 1500 engine. She had to have the valves replaced after that. When the VW mechanic went to do the work, he discovered that someone installed the wrong belt pulley at the end of the crankshaft. The pulley was from a later VW engine, and that is what caused the belt to slip off.

[@smokelake25]

Mike, Great info! Question -what could an engine knock be coming from? : At ambient temp in PA of 75 deg F, I get an Engine knock under load (on hills) at mid to lower RPMs - most noticeable after warmed up engine. I did use 87 fuel (will go higher Octane next time). Engine shrouds are in use though not the cylinder head shroud you are showing. Engine idles great, cylinder temp gauge mounted on cylinder head stud (meant for the sparkplug) reads 345 deg F Any thoughts? I had some engine compartment smoke but i think it was due to the engine fire wall tarboard insulation kit i installed .

[@smokelake25]

One important detail left out. I discovered that my fuel pump was leaking out the weep hole…. Maybe this fuel leaked into my engine oil? This thinning of the oil, could also contribute to knocking…?

[@ivorwm2291]

Would you recommend the Type III piston cooling tin for a 36 hp engine?

[@vayabroder729]

Not sure it would fit.

[@marianocastro7658]

Easy, if you can't hold the oil stick easy in your fingers it's too hot

[@bobbader4789]

Where does one get this tin to make our bug run cooler?

[@daneberry7301]

What about the gas in the gas filter in the engine? I’ve seen it bubbling in the filter, making me think there’s air coming through or scarier, that the gas is boiling. What do you make of that? Thanks!

[@garyphelps9123]

keep the rubber engine liner around the engine

[@robo2901]

I'm not a vw expert but that plastic fuel filter seems real close to the exhaust header.

[@4saken404]

To address both aspects of your comments: That's actually an intake. The way it's set up on these is that the carb sits in the middle and then splits off left and right through that intake thing to go to the cylinders on each side. (The tube section on the bottom is actually separate and not connected and is only there to help with heat dispersion.) And any really hot exhaust stuff will be below this tin (in order to keep the heat away from this side of the engine).

[@allenbrian72]

I got my type 3 tins to snap in to my engine it was tight but it locked in

[@gooddoggy3257]

Does running the heat cool the engine?

[@Mikefngarage]

no it actually makes it run hotter.

[@knockout818]

So if you are not to have any holes on the Tin’s, then why do some guys drive with their Deck Lid off?

[@Mikefngarage]

well if you have your deck lid off it wont matter as much if the holes are not covered. because when the decklid is on the heat comes back in from the rear and circulates into the fan intake. When you have your deck lid off your engine can run cooler because you have lots of cool air into your fan. just running with your deck lid off or stand offs you will have problems every time you wash your car. or it rains. wet distributors can be a pain. Plus if you have a big motor the cops will be on you like flies on horses.

[@REVNUMANEWBERN]

With today's 12 volt electric fans can't they be used to be a superb way to cool them?

[@Mikefngarage]

that squirrel cage fan from the engine puts out some serious CFM of air. Many years ago with the fans on the market then we could not get anything to compete with the original fan. Now I haven't tried that recently but I am pretty sure the same rules apply. But putting a electric fan on a full flow extra oil cooler is really good with today's stuff.

[@knowone6214]

your asking for a fire with that fuel filter placement Mike

[@chrisdavidson3180]

Thanks 🤙

[@jamesdodson9417]

rocks on a tin shed

[@diegodebunks8459]

Please clamp your fuel filter

[@mra2957]

Better yet, move it to under the gas tank. Otherwise stand a good chance of a crack or leak in the cheap plastic filter and your VW will burn to the ground.

[@vintage76vipergreenBeetle]

Get rid of that fuel filter in your engine bay. It's a fire hazard.

[@spittman75]

I hate it when they install the generator 45 degrees out

[@soilmanted]

Weird. It is the same dham engine on the beetle as on the van-bus. How could the air deflector that works on the bus, not work on the beetle? It makes no sense. Why would VW say not to use them on the beetle. I think it is your secon guess that sounds most likely: if it runs cooler with the bigger deflectors, why would we not have used them? We do not want to recall all the beetles and put new deflectors on them!

[@Mikefngarage]

I believe it was because of cost. I have tested them and they do work. IMO. vw would NEVER admit there was a better way to cool the engine. Can you imagine the legal liability of that.

[@sandraburkinshaw2875]

Too much misinformation here!

[@benkanobe7500]

The one other thing you forgot to mention was to make sure you remove that stupid thermostat and those cooling vanes/fins that direct air at the cylinder head (you know where the heat and valves and valve seats are...) and not the cylinders. Get rid of that stupid German Engineering. What do they know anyway? While you are at it, if you modified your engine to have or if it has a doghouse cooler, remove the stupid Hoover Bit and all the sealing foam from around the oil cooler (more stupid German Engineering). I knew a guy that pulled a trailer uphill in the summer with no Hoover bit, no insulating foam, no vanes/fins, or thermostat and his enigne lasted 250K and the only reason he rebuilt it was for fun. Engineers are stupid and they never do testing. Guys that play with bugs are way smarter. Go with the urban legends!