VW Bug how to prevent engine overheating

best deal on goodyear air hose check this out amzn.to/3b5cJvy All these things i suggest have been tested with gauges back in the 80s at my buddys shop. The only thing I left out is Cool tin which is type 3 replica tin for all vw engines. It goes under the cylinders. has metered holes. Really works well it is on the other modified engine video. you might want to watch it as well.

[@Mikefngarage]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z563h51rmrmKoKs Here are additional key information for modified engines plus more cooling stuff...

[@thevacuumtubejunky9774]

Mike F : In regards to cooling systems, check out Jake Raby's D.T.M. cooling system. Each cylinder receives 20% cooling and the oil cooler receives 18% only 2% loss of air throughout the entire system. "R.A.D." (Raby Engine Development) has documented proof of the efficiency of his system. I personally own one of his T-4 2056cc engines in a T-1 bug configuration, although somewhat pricey it turned out to be great insurance for keeping an aircooled engine "Properly cooled" in the harshest conditions. Being able to drive the death valley in August without overheating is quite satisfying. These D.T.M. systems are also available for the factory T-1 vehicles as well.

[@garyhickey4789]

Run it faster. It's air cooled

[@johnnyturbo8460]

What is an acceptable head temp, and what is considered "to hot" / when us as the driver should start to worry.

[@bills3060]

VERY enlightening!! I've been around bugs since 1960, yeah I'm THAT old! Through the years, it's amazing how many things we forget. Just got a VW Trike for the wife. Engine's fairly open, so I wasn't worried 'bout bottom tin. OOPS, gonna install them. I like that you brought attention to oil temp. vs engine temp! An engine can literally 'smoke' itself before the oil temp goes up.

[@hubertschuppe-wurmer3649]

Great explanation! Good job and nice bug! Just a little improvement: Relocate the fuel filter below your tank to avoid leaking and fire in your engine compartment.

[@DanielinLaTuna]

And place it before the pump rather than after. Better to have the pump sucking through the filter than pressurizing it

[@tomm7096]

Ditto on removing the fuel filter. Relocate under the wheel well. Also, lace the hose clamps where they connect to the carb and fuel pump as the brass fittings frequently slip out of the casting. This together with ensuring you have a good grommet where the metal fuel line enters the firewall and you will have mitigated 99% of the risk of fire. Very nice car. Please do not let it burn up. I have seen too many, all the same cause.

[@Mikefngarage]

yea grommet or wrap the metal line with hose. a little silicone to hold it in place. Like these comments and hope more people read them. I have never had a fuel filter crack yet but I am a bit more worried about the new stuff now made so cheap.

[@ocavant]

Never put the filter on the pressure side of the pump!

[@randallp.8313]

Instead of lacing the brass fitting, I put a drop of Loctite on it. Then I inserted the brass fitting (which has about a 15° bend in it) into the fuel pump. One second later it was impossible to twist the fitting. The Loctite filled the clearance between the two parts.

[@thomastalbot5947]

Good advice on keeping top and bottom of the motor isolated, that's key as is running all the tin including "sleds" underneath. As VW increased fan capacity they started adding the deck lid louvers. My 1970 has two rows of louvers and a rain shield but not the dog house shroud, just a wider fan. Doghouse flows a lot more air. You may never have a problem but the best place for fuel filter is where the fuel line comes out of the chassis at the back of the pan and use a metal one, not plastic or glass. Almost everybody tossed the flaps and thermostat when rebuilding but the flaps actually redirect a little more air over a section of the heads even when fully open. It's not vital but does help cool the heads some. I run them in my bug but not in my speedster. I also don't like how the new thermostats fail closed but the old accordion stats can still be found. If you run stand offs you can use baja bug tricks to keep your bug running in the rain/wash. Hair spray on the plug wires was one of my favorites. :)

[@FixinBugsNStuff]

Mike, you are a wealth of information. 100% of things you mentioned I had to figure out though out the years with many failures.

[@RJDCR]

yes , and keeping engine clean & oil free....I created channel adapters , from aluminum....I run J-tubes , they take the place of the heater box sides....sold a pair , on my '67 bug.....kool vid , thanx from all bugheads everywhere

[@mikeglenn3333]

I have never had an overheating issue with my '71. When i adjust the valves, I always leave #3 a bit loose. I also have an oil cooler and filter (aftermarket) Also, keep the seals in good shape as well. Every 1500 miles or 3 months, i inspect the fuel pump, lines and fittings.

[@ocavant]

It's funny that most people's engines always have those tin screws that secure the bottom tin to the case missing. Not sure why, but I bet it's well over 50% of the motors I look at have those 4 screws missing. I'm sure you also notice that the carb preheat tubes are missing the inner and outer top seals. Not a big deal, but still missing and a place air can recirculate back up top. You obviously know your way around ACVWs but for those that don't know what complete tin looks like, you might want to point that out. Great vid none the less.

[@rickmartin7062]

This is for the guy that uploaded the video some of what you are saying is true but for the most part it sounds like you are Repeating something you heard from that doesn't know everything about aircooled VWS Dr Porsche would give you an E for Effort for making this video without all the facts you can post this for all of your viewers you want to Run a 3.88 ring and pinion if you gonna be running on the Freeway at 70 plus mph I want get into all of the other ways to keep the engine cool ok maybe one more just for you I noticed the deck lid on the car with the Dual Port engine didn't have any Vents where does the heat go when the car is parked...it normally goes up but your car has no where for it to go oh and another thing you fuel line the rubber section are a fire hazard you might want to change those ASAP or sooner...and be safe

[@joeysarmiento1925]

I grew up with VW but not a handyman. I never install a 009, just a vacuum centrifugal advance because former makes engine run hot. Nice video. 😎🇵🇭👍

[@MartinSage]

My 71 bus(12yrs)had a Berg $5 oil dipstick temp gauge. Made the red oil light flash when oil got hot. Used it on my 1776cc dual carb. I added a deep sump and external oil cooler w/ electric fan mounted away from engine under floor. Course my oil volume went from 2qt to 6qt. I totally agree that ALL SHEET METAL has to be there.

[@JohnnyRebel1776]

Been running an oil temp gauge for 20 years and has served me well. If your oil temp gets too high you know your heads are too hot. Best thing i did for my engine run cooler (being in southern California where it gets very hot in the summer) was to space the engine lid. Dropped my oil temp like 40 degrees. It has never overheated since.

[@cubey]

Cheaper and easier than a cylinder head temperature gauge. I will eventually add an oil temperature and maybe a pressure gauge too. Running a 65 40HP in a 64 baja.

[@larrybrinley8222]

What is " to space the engine lid" ?

[@ultraclaw798]

@@larrybrinley8222 i think he means the "hood" of a bug. more airflow?

[@brianallen9810]

How to prevent your air cooled VW from overheating ? Just assemble and install it the same as they did from the factory with all of the same parts that it came from the factory. The folks at VW put a lot of Deutschmarks into designing it so it would run well, don't try to re-engineer it.

[@Mikefngarage]

that is mostly right there are some improvements you can and may need to do. The car was designed to be used in Germany Not the Califonria desert or worse yet AZ or NV. I highly recommend cool tin for under the cylinders if you are building a new engine. It really works. There is a reason they put it on Porsche and airplanes. plus the jetting for todays fuels.

[@razorburns8651]

german parts only if possible,just saying have you seen those Chinese aftermarket parts?they are really bad.

[@theoldwizard3876]

except it wasn't designed for 115degrees in Az..:(

[@lasvegasira]

Even if completely factory fresh, #3 cylinder still overheats and has problems with valves and pistons going bad due to how the fan cools the oil. As much as I love VWs, that's an inherent design flaw.

[@arthurbttf]

Some bugs here are all original and yet overheat all the time. Any suggestions on having a bug in a very very very hot city?

[@vwbugkidmechanic7248]

Love this!!! As far as air flow goes, I agree about the firewall tin... however for fire sake, I don't agree that this can be removed. Anything that helps block flames from the cabin will give passengers valuable time to exit in case of fire.

[@cubey]

I'm amazed how many people still put the fuel filter in the engine compartment with the known fire risk from the distributor and exhaust right there. It's not that hard to put it up front instead. At least yours isn't over the distributor like most people do.

[@DanielinLaTuna]

Yup, been running premium gas since the lead was removed (ages ago). Since the Bug gets pretty good mileage I figure spending more on gasoline (per gallon) evens out in the end. Costs less to operate than my Toyota Land Cruiser on regular gas. I used to run my old Karmann Ghia with full instrumentation: tach, volts, oil pressure, oil temp, head temp. And the doghouse cooler, after Gene Berg did tests showing the German engineers knew what they were doing.

[@russhaig4116]

Never been around beetles and somehow this video came into my feed. Very interesting watch! I think in regards to the cooling points made, you have guys coming from water-cooled backgrounds unaware just how much engineering work went into that ducting. They chuck it thinking its a weight mod or hindering the ability for easy maintanence.

[@Mikefngarage]

thanks for watching

[@Mikefngarage]

be carful they are addicting the basic technology that was used was enticing.

[@mammadbughi3327]

This type of air cool engine is very sensitive to tiny oil leak. Air if move fast can sitting dust on surfaces as head cylinder and cylinder plates if plates oily. Good assembling and sure to oil sealed is important.

[@marcconyard5024]

On my Type 2 Transporter I routed the fuel line/filter round behind the manifold at the rear of the Carburetor. A little harder to get at but I learned after a near catastrophic engine bay fire it was worth the hassle.

[@Mikefngarage]

yea that is cool. I have seen some with fuel hose rubbing on the throttle cable doing that just keep it clear of that. Had them both ways and never had an issue. But I have seen the barb slip out of the carb an burn several of them to the ground.

[@carlk3]

Back in the '80s I put Bus wheels on my Ghia: an inch shorter and an inch wider than original. I found some relatively low profile Michelins that were just about the same overall diameter as the original tires, so I had the same gearing and my speedometer was accurate. For clearance, I only had to grind the rear bump stops a little bit.

[@johncollins5552]

14 inch wheels look wrong as there is a big handwidth between the bodywork and the tyre. Acceleration would improve but the motor would need crazy revs for safe highway speed driving with a standard transmission. You cant get something for nothing. For a ghia has a heavier,wider body than a bug to haul around. I suggest installing a heavy duty power pulley, that helps increase the fanspeed and maintain momentum. Gene Berg having the bestquality but think csp or cb performance also do them.

[@Volkswagenplanet]

great info video. a must watch for all newbies to the VW family. Keep dubbing

[@Mikefngarage]

for sure you wouldnt know how many guys still have those holes in the rear tin still open that have been driving that way for years and wonder why they keep having to change engines. Look at cars for sale and open holes in rear tin or missing. want a fortune for the car.

[@Volkswagenplanet]

Something so small and simple can save so much. When it comes to engine bay all that chrome won't get you home. It creates more heat or vapor lock where gas will start to make. bubbles. im curious to see the views on this one. I will be posting more videos and starting on first car. Whichever that one may be. Keep your eyes open. keep your videos coming. I have learned alot. keep dubbing

[@noaleche8100]

volkswagenplanet knowing you have a lot of vw experience, I'm thinking about getting a beetle and wondering what maitnence I should do and what to buy when I get one. in mind I want a small turbo so what should I get for a turbo set up. Thanks if you can help out :)

[@stephengardin2423]

Tire width and sidewall aspect ratio will always determine the final gear ratio on any vehicle. Bear in mind that a larger overall diameter/circumference tire will make the wheels spin slower and you must watch speed because indicated speed will be lower than actual. The only mods to VWs that are really worth it are ones that route the air around the engine more efficiently.

[@Magnusscipioiterum]

Front engine tin is necessary to prevent heat from being suck in and additionally is the front tin seal. It is necessary also.

[@Mikefngarage]

better if it is on, but we did tests with temp gauges in the early 80s and did not get any different results with the front off. The rear of the car oh yea if you want to burn up a motor just leave some holes in the rear.

[@ady-bdavid1173]

Get a vented lid or stand off hinges or both... It helps more then most things he mentioned

[@Mikefngarage]

+ady-B David the only thing I don't like about them is water comes in the engine compartment and causes problems when you wash your car

[@Mikefngarage]

yes they do work but every time you wash your car you are in for a big job.

[@razorburns8651]

those dont really work when you are idling,the deck lid is designed to draw air down over the engine blowing all hot air down and away from engine,the deck lid being open compromises cooling ability.plus it looks like crap

[@snugbug5067]

Mike F we put a garbage bag over the engine when it's washed. But we make sure the engine is cool.

[@finno123456]

If a bug overheats normally she will cut out let her cool completely before starting her up again. As it is an air cooled engine very same as a ride on lawnmower. I remember we had a heat wave in Ireland. The push petrol mower cut out i let her cool down and ran her again. Vw beetle uses the same principle

[@CosgroveNotts]

Best to run in a cooler country.. Heads crack around or near the plugs. Built in flat spot on standard carb in the 70s

[@Mikefngarage]

flat spot could be from loose throttle shaft makes motor run lean. too watch out on that one.

[@joeysarmiento1925]

You mentioned doghouse oil cooler? I used a type 4 as advised by my mechanic. It is hot in my country 8 months in a year. Good video!!!

[@Mikefngarage]

Great point! we also did that in the Bulletproof engine build. Type4 cooler modified the shroud . I would do that in hotter climate too. also putting the electric fan powered cooler works good too. I also use heads that AA puts out that have opened up air finned area. better flow especially with the cool tin installed.

[@marlonalva]

This is one of the most valuable video about Vw I’ve ever watched!!! Thank you man!!! I think you just save my poor engine!!!! I was doing it all by ignorance.

[@Mikefngarage]

Glad it helped!

[@marlonalva]

Mike Fn Garage Oh yeah!! 👍🏻

[@marlonalva]

Mike Fn Garage Mike, where are you located? Just in case we’re close, I’m in NC 😁

[@bluejayoutpost9170]

On a 67 beetle I am trying to get running right the carb is new from a different mechanic. The main jet and air screw does not seem to lean out as it should..sootey.plugs of course..compression is 120..on all cylinders..and changed over to electronic ign..going up on throttle is sluggish too.tks 👍

[@Mikefngarage]

the carbs need to be jettied right out of the box. Rough jetting is 55 idle and 130 main jet. but you need to check them with a sizing tool. I have found several stamped wrong. Jet sizing tools are available from empi. also they have jets check the size before you install.

[@bluejayoutpost9170]

@@Mikefngarage Thanks sure like your VW'S..And your speedy responce..👍

[@badaxelbrewski]

Make sure your old tar board insulation on the fire wall is in good shape, attached, or replaced. Dangling or broken firewall insulation will suck right over that fan hole no problem.

[@stavangerrockcity]

this is good thinking and it helps me out now. cheers from Drangedal, Norway!

[@laurentiu.panait2536]

If I had a Beetle, the first mod I would implement is a way smaller pulley on the generator/air fan shaft for greater speed.

[@peteremmanuel2762]

Dont do that. The fan consumes quite a bit of horsepower. The smaller pulley has less grip on the vee belt. Combine these 2, and you will have a slipping belt at even moderate RPMs. Result will be a fried engine. You could use a late model larger oil cooler and the slightly wider cooling fan impeller.

[@nor4277]

I bought a after market oil cooler that screwed on the back of the fan housing, and it also came with a oil filter that use a regular oil filter.,A head temp. Guage would be a good idea.and 30wieght synthetic oil which handle the heat better.I see your engine has a 09 distributor and a Bosch coil good improvements .

[@rexfreelom4300]

You do have Mercon V fluid in the Volkswagen air cool transmission at the back. You need to stop bubbles in the transmission fluid by add in more steering pump fluid of 5 speed forward so add in Lucas ZDDP Additive and/or detergent and Plus try the transmission 70W80 oil pump low volume and oil cooler. There oil cooler Misnomer brings the fluid cooler radiator that comes with transmission cooling oil sensor also named heat sensors for trans.fluid.

[@mitchellzen8021]

Just wanted to clarify something. It appears what you are saying is that it is best to, say, seal the engine area up to prevent the engine overheating, or to keep it at an optimum cooling capacity? Thanks

[@edwinhsingmaster9135]

Check your pulley sizes. Shutters in your fan housing? Gene Berg oil temp. dip stick. Then you know.

[@uncontrollabledogs3791]

Good video overall but don't forget to prep the heads first. Most all heads need the fins cleaned up and profiled with a circular saw and speed controller . All the flashing and shitty casting benefit. Even drilling out flashing where possible. #2 fix all oil leaks. Super important.

[@jamesc5279]

I have a '79 convertible - How can I tell if it's running hot, especially with the top down, driving 2-3 hours to the beach, on the interstate? Thanks!

[@gtgodbear6320]

Maybe put a dry sump system in there with a 5-7 quart oil tank and it'll never overheat with all the stock parts. No extra oil cooler to block airflow. IDK if you could put a dry sump system on a Beetle engine.

[@ramvanbobby3889]

I agree with this hears my question doing it this way will be great in stop in go traffic and Fwy driving

[@patinabrothers2944]

This video is packed with useful info!

[@corf8674]

Awesome cooling tips, thanks !

[@RodderFiles]

mind is scrambling thinking what i need to do on the bug now this ugh added to the list lol

[@lux-3001]

the best thing to do by keeping the stock look is to modify the dog house fan housing and install a wider fan.

[@marianfunk7395]

adjust the fan regulating thermostat to factory spec to prevent overheating, and also to provide wintertime heat for the passenger compartment.

[@KingDupue]

Hey Mike, Im working with a guy to restore a beetle for me and I was wanting to put dual 40 IDF carbs on the engine. He keeps telling me that dual carbs will cause the engine to overheat all the time. Its an 1835cc engine. Do you have any idea if 2 carbs will cause the engine to run much hotter than a single carb?

[@enwri]

I've seen a cooked engine from the firewall insulation being pulled, against the fan inlet, blocking it. And +1 to all the comments about fuel lines failing at the brass insert into the carb or pump, if you've just fitted a filter in the line, you probably gave those brass inserts a wobble and a tug getting getting the hoses on the filter. If they were ever going to come loose at all, it's probably now. Is this the right place to talk about the fires in the back seat because of the missing battery cover?

[@Mikefngarage]

good point about the battery cover. There should be a plastic piece on top of the positive terminal. plus you should always use a group 42. Myself if I have passengers often I use a old prestone bottle and cut it in half and put it over my battery.

[@Mikefngarage]

another big failure is electrical but almost a whole other issue. Missing or worn out grommets like the positive terminal grommet or

[@dwalker399]

I've seen them swallow the brass shot pump nozzle in the carb also.

[@edwinhsingmaster9135]

HOW TO HOT ROD VW's. "Only a fool would remove fan housing air shutters! Gene Berg described how air vortices occurred inside fan housing missing the shutters. Air leaks and coolant leaks..Depending of air temp. you also need the thermostat to prevent cyl wash. Painted cases always run hot! Think about it. Valve guide wear is why #3 exhaust valve breaks. Just the way it is, freshen heads at 50k max. and toss old exh. valves. If new exhausts valves have no markings, toss them too!

[@LivingBGLegend]

I just inherited a 73 bus with type 4 engine. I’ve been daily driving it and will do so all summer (hopefully find a beater for winter) it gets 100+ and 90+ everyday from June thru August I’m a little worried haha Have all the original tin, adjusted valves, degreased engine and cleaned everything up better. Change the oil frequently and am still worried about overheating. Thinking of making a lid prop also to have the engine lid gap at 5 inches or so Also just ordered a new engine surround foam seal as mines deteriorated and half there

[@edwinhsingmaster9135]

Were to get air from to "cool" the engine? Let think about that. Low pressure behind vehicle going down road(as in wind tunnel) wouldn't be a good idea as air is hot the closer you get to surface of road + exhaust heat is down there too. Air leaks are death to engine because all the air is coming from low, exhaust area. ALL air must come into engine compartment from built-in scoops on side of buss. The scoops are not where by accident, that a high pressure area, at speed from frontal air displacement .

[@LivingBGLegend]

Edwin H Singmaster makes sense

[@bigrebone]

Good stuff. Really eye opening for me.

[@Mars36912]

Thank you for the video I'm new to VW, i got a 75 and I'm curious if i put a temp head gauge what the temp i should keep it. Thanks

[@geoffdearth7360]

What about making sure the belt is snug? And that there is enough crankcase oil? 45 years ago when I used to pump gas in these things I very frequently found those items needing attention. And that was when the speed limit was 70 (before it was lowered to 55).

[@VWClassicFix]

Great video, as always Mike!

[@cartoonist1975]

I feel like the best times to enjoy these air engines are in fall temps .

[@Mikefngarage]

yea like right now it is just right. I dont like the summer in my vws. too hot inside the car and too hot for the engine.

[@emmettmitcham1958]

And don’t paint your block it traps heat

[@Core1Chara]

Well fuck

[@pedinhuh16]

The paint job will melt away before that can be a problem

[@ocavant]

Bob Hoover says....

[@lepystudio8974]

That s not true

[@juusosalokangas9707]

Thanks! I learned a lot from this video👌🏻

[@MrGGPRI]

VW BUG HOW TO PREVENT ENGINE FIRES: Remove the defective designed POS press-in fuel fitting at the carb, tap threads using a 1/8" pipe-tap and SCREW-IN a brass fitting. (been there and fortunately did not burn-down my '68 Bug. )

[@Mikefngarage]

yes that is the most common problem right on or you can use a hose clamp and put a leash of wire to one of the carb bolts. if you know what I mean

[@ernestogallardo6720]

Thanks for all the information sir and I need to buy almost all the important. Parts for my 68 thanks so much and great video 👍

[@albertvasquez6171]

I'm watching and learning! 👍 thank you

[@jeffrey4547]

i got 2 bugs both running and driving no rust in them but are baja's one is a 63 the other is a 74 the 63 has a 72 bus trans axle in it got both for 400 bucks think i got a good deal with extra parts and custom wheels good tires the 63 takes chevy 5 hole car same as my camero center line wheels

[@gregguenthner3059]

Thanks for the tips. What main jet should be run for a stock rebuilt 36 horse power ? I would like to know?

[@ezeddie9747]

I have a question. My bus run fine until it's hot then stalls. I have to wait until it gets cold to start again

[@eyecam286]

we have installed 10-12" electric fans with 140f thermostat goes on and turns off all by itself sometimes we run bit higher thermo max 180f ..just like today's water cooled cars they have electric fans as well as mechanical..just saying in the desert of 118F in the summer it is not like Europe nice and cooler . running a bit fatter main jet runs a bit cooler but run 89-91 RON better burn we run mixed for performance E85 . remember vw beetle back in the day as it reads on the gas flap door min 91 RON @ 7.5:1 compression !!!! higher octane runs cleaner ..you dont see NASCAR running 86-91 octane do yah ???

[@ilijazivanovic3698]

I tought of that

[@Mr69volks]

Do deck lid standoffs help at all ?

[@Kingstonsmac]

I’m having heating issues with my 63 bug and it’s driving me nuts.

[@bjodaddyo]

Your side engine compartment heat insulators are missing.

[@albertoacevedo5465]

Thank you for the tips !

[@Hoodhistorian562]

On my 65 sunroof I bought a convertible decklid for it also. Hopefully it will help

[@Mikefngarage]

the do a little. I just dont have one because of the water getting in on the distributor.

[@Hoodhistorian562]

Mike F true, check this out why IN THE HECK DID I GET SHOCKED when i touched my spark plug wires on my distributor? Are my cheap spark plug wires causing that ?

[@Mikefngarage]

Bosch or NGK spark plugs only for vws.

[@davidharrell8890]

Very informative, thanks.

[@coyotebite397]

Stupid question, couldn't you wire up a fan system over the tip of the engine to push air downwards? That way it's getting cool air and can force the hot air down?

[@Mikefngarage]

yea but it is really hard to make sure the direction of the air is going downward. sometimes it swirls and goes back up into the fan and doesnt work you would need to make a shroud system and it is very tight up in there where you would need to do it. just putting a fan up there might not help or might inhibit flow.

[@tiger121372]

wire a fan from the battery terminals and stick it on the inside of the decklid

[@james66872]

I hope that you changed your fuel filter by now

[@TheDesertwalker]

I have a 64 Baja bug and there is no "give" when I push down on the front end. Do I have locked up shocks, or is the problem actually in the front end itself? Thanks.

[@shanesmaineshop]

Lots of great info

[@snugbug5067]

I learned a lot !! Thanks 👍😃

[@soilmanted]

Lots of correct info however the owners manual for my 68 beetle lists the maximum speed and the "cruising speed" as being 78 mph. www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/68bug/68T1-50.jpg "Cruising" speed meaning you can go all day at that speed without a problem. I never heard my engine ping under any conditions, even in the early 1980's when leaded gas was replaced by unleaded. I remember I did something slightly different with the onset of unleaded gas but I don't remember what it was. I think something to do with lubrication of the valve guides. I did notice that on every enigne cylinder #3 would begin having problems at about 85,000 miles, losing compression, and if you let it go much longer, the #3 cylinder exhaust valve stem would stretch into 2 pieces and the valve head would get sucked into the cylinder, usually ruining left side head, #3 cylinder, and #3 connecting rod. I was told the reason was because the oil cooler was near #3 and therefor #3 didn't get as much cooling air, would run hotter than the other cylinders, and cause it to fail first.

[@Mikefngarage]

good info the 68 had 4.12 gears so yes max cruise would have been 78 with premium 91 octane leaded fuel as listed on the fuel door. The cars in the video were both 4.37. The valve guides and exhaust valves were effected most from the unleaded fuel. We used to use a upgraded exhaust valve on every rebuilt engine at the shop I worked at. Dont remember what they were made of maybe stainless. We used all original kolbenschmidt parts mostly not available now.

[@soilmanted]

@@Mikefngarage In the United States what I seem to remember is that the owners manual and the fuel door for my 68 beetle with the original engine said to use 86 octane or higher, according to octane rating system used in the US. I never used anything higher than 87. I never heard pinging. Same for my 67 beetle. The only change I made to the 68 was to defeat the second, tiny, "fixed" mixture screw on the PICT 2 carburetor, to allow the engine to run richer. To do this my friend who worked for a VW dealer - if I recall correctly he warmed up the adhesive and turned the screw a bit. We left it there permanently, and from then on I adjusted only the normal mixture valve, normally. My 67 beetle with a PICT 1 carburetor was run without any changes to it at all. I rebuilt the 68 twice, maybe 3 times. The first time my friend got me some good low-mileage 1500 cc pistons and cylinders. It needed new ones because one piston and cylinder (as well as a connecting rod) were damaged when the engine sucked a valve. The second and third time I rebuilt the engine, it had low compression in cyl #3 but I got to it before any damage was done to it. Nevertheless at the second rebuild, I replaced the cylinders with 1600 cc cylinders. I don't remember if I replaced the rings or not on the third rebuilt. Rings were inexpensive so probably I honed the cylinders and replaced the rings but I can't say for sure. I definitely replaced the exhaust valves and exhaust valve guides - I always did that on every rebuild - as well as did a precision resurfacing of the intake valves and all the valve seats. Anyway - I still used 87 octane gasoline with the 1600 cc engines, without hearing any pinging or knocking. I had several customers whose engines I rebuilt, some with dual port cylinder heads, some single port. I don't remembering any of my customers saying anything about pinging or knocking. I don't know what kind of fuel they used. I don't remember discussing it with them but I probably did and if so I would have recommended that they use "regular." On the 4 to 5 air-cooled VWs that were owned or used by me or by my girl-friend at the time - they all were run only on regular gasoline. There was at least one VW which had the "pancake" engine.

[@pacificovw9522]

Mike, thank you for the cooling tips! Any brand of Premium Gas that you would recommend? I have the non-doghouse engine oil cooler that came with a protective metal mesh in front of it and I cut that mesh because I thought that it was too restrictive and besides it is inside the fan housing, I think it helps. I would prefer a doghouse cooler but is it hard to install in a single port?

[@Mikefngarage]

not really it goes right on easiest though with the engine out of the car. SP are great sturdy engines and have less things to go wrong. No intake boots that leak.

[@Mr00934]

USE ''STAR TRON''...cap full per 6 gallons eliminates the ethanol. 2 caps per tank in vw, cant over use

[@Mikefngarage]

I will try that.

[@Mr00934]

MOST auto stores have it or ebay. good price free shipping 32oz for 26 bucks.

[@rexfreelom4300]

What is the temperature ambient Fahrenheit right next to your cylinder head and please best use laser thermometer and the reading. Before you can change the needle hole jet into more lean fuel and air mixture. Lower amount or gasoline the better it fire the combustion explosion internal. It's better than rich mixture in 175 degree Fahrenheit in the water radiator. Super hot invisible flame fire heat jet is my hot SHO and it produce highest Hydrocarbon exhaust temperature right there tailpipe. What is your oil temperature? Please, plus use copper tube connected to the oil main pressure?

[@Isa.M568]

Thanks

[@wakeupmofoers691]

how about ecm's and over the decklid oil coolers

[@Kagaines]

Should those air outlets be capped if you run J tubes?

[@virgojoe72]

You didn't mention anything about the cooling flaps in the fan shroud and the thermostat

[@Mikefngarage]

I remove them all. they restrict air flow. Thermostat and flaps...

[@pacificovw9522]

Good! I feel better now because that's how mine runs: without thermostat and flaps; it worried me that it was an incomplete cooling system.

[@martinharris5017]

VW put those flaps there for a reason, you should never remove them as they allow the engine to warm up properly and guide cooling air here it's needed, when it's needed. Might get away with it in a permanently hot climate perhaps?

[@Mikefngarage]

they were made for Germany or super cold climates. Most people who drive VWs now are summer only. Flaps gotta go. they fail more often then they work on stuff today. Germans even today seem to make their cars based on their climate and fuels. That is why we have so many problems here that they dont have there. Like TDI hpfp failure on late models.

[@martinharris5017]

I live in New Zealand Mike, and we.ve got morning frosts right now...and I do drive my '68 1500 in the cold! Gave your clip a "Like" though as all the rest of your cooling info is great and spot on. cheers Mike

[@shamendraperera921]

Very informative thanks

[@josephheston9238]

What about replacing the decklids with those from a Vert (since they're louvered)?

[@Mikefngarage]

does help but sometimes in the wet or rain can come back to haunt you when your car wont start because distributor is wet.

[@brandonsmisek]

Thanks for this vid and good info.. peace.

[@Smegacool]

Nice looking VW's...

[@Hoodhistorian562]

they have my after marker oil cooler is on top of the tyranny. it was like that when I got it

[@Mikefngarage]

that is the right place

[@Mikefngarage]

wonder if it was at my buddys old shop in riverside at one time. Not too many people know that one.

[@TyronePatOne]

These VW's are mistakenly called air cooled. The air cools the oil by means of the oil cooler, therefore they are really oil cooled. The use of heavy engine oil is another indicator of this. You cannot use modern 10/30 etc on these engines, instead it's SAE 30 or similar, as used on lawnmowers. A lawnmower is not air cooled. I would disagree with sensing cylinder head temp. Oil temp variation from sump to pistons is not going to vastly differ once engine is up to operating temp. Good servicing stops engine running hot. Oil cooler fins cleaned and making sure oil runs freely through cooler and pipes are not gunged or restricted. Respectfully disagree with sensing cylinder head temp. Have had 10 plus Beetle's in our family from 1968 to 1983 and never had a mechanical breakdown nor an engine fire. What we did have was a VW trained foreman mechanic who always serviced our cars. Realise how fortunate that is now, after reading various feeds on other peoples experience with these engines.

[@Mikefngarage]

Im sorry I absolutely disagree. I use multi weight oil. With today's oil technology you can use. the straight weight was good for yesteryear but not for today. Heads are where the fire is do you see oil in the heads to cool them down. NO No oil there.

[@usecoperator6357]

What about a beach bug? Its all open in the rear.

[@sharkhead7839]

How long can you drive it before it over heats?

[@naacosta78]

Mike F You were talking about different gasses to use if I have access to ethanol free gas would you suggest using that?

[@Mikefngarage]

Well if your car is jetted for that fuel it might be better than e fuel. If it is jetted for the e fuel it will be fine too. So for instance usually if your using ethanol free fuel it will require a smaller main jet. So if you switch to the ethanol free fuel you car will run more rich so it will probably run cooler or it may not like being that rich and not want to run right or foul the plugs. You can even jet your car to run on e 85 and if it is jetted right it will run cool on that too. Having the proper main jet is a very crucial item to making your car run cool.

[@rick01jetta]

your fuel filter should not be between the pump and carb, that how vw's burn up!

[@aircooledrides4846]

VW bug how to prevent engine fire

[@pacificovw9522]

Rick Jolicoeur is right people: if that fuel filter leaks right onto the sparking distributor or if your fan belt snaps and hits that fuel filter and causes it to leak it will be the Hindenburg all over again, "Oh, the Humanity!"

[@Mikefngarage]

I have had vws my whole life over 35 years. Never had one of those plastic fuel filters fail all of them in the same place. . But you need clamps on it for sure. The biggest problem is the carb brass insert falling out at some point. The glass ones are the ones that I would never put in that position. thanks for the reply.

[@massacmongo995]

And always check oil level . The mechanical fuel pump can leak gas into the crankcase when it becomes worn or seals fail.

[@Mikefngarage]

yea the fuel pump leaking into crankcase i have had that happen too many times.

[@juggalalo10]

Hi, quick question. I have a 1973 bus and just got the engine rebuilt today. I drove about 3 hours keeping it 55-60mph. When I got off the freeway and turned onto a street my oil pressure light flashed once and shut off. Then drove alittle farther and it flashed one more time. By then I was at my destination. Do you have any advice?

[@Mikefngarage]

put a gauge on it. pull the sender and check the oil pressure. you just need a dash gauge and you can screw it right into the engine. MIght be a bad sender.

[@skypilot3237]

Rick Jolicoeur how does having the filter there cause them to burn up? I only ask because that is where it is on a 72 I just bought.

[@skypilot3237]

Dan Smith, Thank You for the help!

[@bedlamite42]

The plastic filters are notorious for leaking. Put the filter in front of the engine by the transmission, and when it leaks it won't be on the engine or exhaust.

[@jeffcohen9246]

It's hard to believe someone who still is running a plastic fuel filter in the engine compartment.

[@jayocular]

I just bought a 69 beetle with a 1600 and it overheated on the way home and I am pretty sure I can solve that( Wrong coil,no heater hoses,non vented dec lid,etc…) but now its the next day and it was extremely hard to start and it wont stay running at idle. Did I permanently damage it or what do I need to look at after I address the cooling issues?

[@williamfroese6626]

Thank you so much

[@doginu]

Plates work better if they have the screws holding them to the case...

[@Mikefngarage]

Yeah if you have the original plates you really need to have every piece on there

[@Mikefngarage]

But the super cool tin or type 3 engine tin work great especially when you can't put all the original ones on because of a modified exhaust or something like that. Imo The super cool tin always works a little better

[@Jeff-wl7zm]

nice video. thanks.

[@EvanMarkham541]

So this doesn’t have to do with cooling. I have a 1969 bug, when leaving a stop my first gear pops out, not all the time, but most the time. The more gas and quicker clutch let off the louder/worse of the pop. If I’m leaving my drive way I let off very slow and give it a small amount of gas and it still pops out. I’ve adjusted my clutch cable multiple times. I’ve tried to give it a second or two before putting it into gear and still, same issue. Have you had this issue? If so what helped? I’m only 17 and have had my bug about 6 months, so I’m not super experienced with this. Thank you!

[@Mikefngarage]

well yes and the answer is the gear, shift fork, or bearing is wearing out. Time for a rebuilt transmission. Common on these older cars. Check out Benco Website, KCR website for pricing they will be the cheapest and good quality work.. Not too often you will find a 69 and up that is in perfect condition used. Rebuilt is the way to go. If you baby it you might make it for a while but it will get worse. and sometimes it will start popping out of other gears. 4th and reverse are the most common.

[@razorburns8651]

take off in second,until you can have your transaxle rebuilt,check the fluid if ok ,theres no linkage adjustment,so my money is on worn parts.

[@MichaelRGlatfelterJr]

I had the same problem on my '68 Type 3 Fastback. It was the transmission mount. The transmission would pop up and twist just enough that it would pop out of gear.

[@Danoie67]

Trans..pull the motor and label...get the car up in the air and look it over......just start in 2nd and check fluids until you have money to pull and replace and check mount.......replace all parts..