How To Test a Mazda 3 Purge Solenoid

How to test a Mazda 3 Purge Solenoid, demonstrated on a 2012 Mazda 3 i 2.0L. This was part of larger troubleshoot for a small leak (P0442/P0456) that indicated a functional purge solenoid, but a problem with the aft area of the evaporative emission system (Canister Vent/Gas Cap/Charcoal Filter) in the vehicle rear.
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Note: Amazon has great painted Centric brake rotors, but the ones I ordered that claimed they would fit did not fit.
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Oliver Porter, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Oliver Porter assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. I recommend safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Oliver Porter, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Oliver Porter.

[@LeaoDN]

Testing the solenoid with the tips so close in one side and directly connected to the battery in the other side is only for the strong, nerves of steel, hard core mechanics.

[@kevinh9262]

Yeah, I think I'd throw a piece of electrical tape in between.

[@rulotutos9720]

I got P0446 code on Mazda 3 and sometimes when I drive long distances I press the gas and the car don’t go fast and white smoke. I’m just waiting for the purge valve I ordered from Amazon to replace it and hopefully this work.

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching, hope this helped and the problem resolved. Much easier to replace purge than vent!

[@davidchavez3510]

Did it work ?

[@collinduffany7363]

How do you get the goddamn electrical connector off - ive literally spent an hour on JUST that. Everything else is straightforward but the connector is not coming off

[@collinduffany7363]

OK figured it out for posterity Flat blade screw driver at the side closest to the valve, to get the connector up over a fairly tall clip. Found this to be easiest once all of the hoses had been removed, and had the valve rotated out if position

[@OliverPorter92]

@@collinduffany7363 Thanks for watching and for this! I will make a connector-specific video when I get the time, I think it is worth its own quick video! They can be difficult. All the best to you.

[@collinduffany7363]

@OliverPorter92 sure thing, and thanks for putting this video out, it was EXTREMELY helpful! It was on my sister in laws car and I'm just sitting there going "I'm gonna break it and then everyone's going to have a bad day!"

[@grantski10]

@@collinduffany7363 W comment

[@mrsassypants8218]

And while you’re working on this, the battery is disconnected the whole time.?

[@adtrshynarh4596]

Can I drive my car without a purge valve? If I can, will the check engine light still be on?

[@OliverPorter92]

Yes and yes. Thanks for watching, and hope it helps, sorry for late response.

[@wellyjonathan2189]

How if i disconnect the purge, and the car run smoothly? I had error p2177 and p2187

[@OliverPorter92]

If I am understanding your question correctly - you disconnected and were OK. This is because the impact of the evaporative emissions system is mainly to reduce emissions, and has little impact on airflow/mixture to the engine, so, while not recommended, removing the purge likely did not change engine operation.

[@jeremystephens8982]

Can a aftermarket canister purge valve with the hose work on my 2008 Mazda 3? The original cpv is not made the same. Instead of having 3 hoses on it, it has 2. Auto zone don’t have the one in the video.

[@OliverPorter92]

Hi I am not sure on the 2008. The aftermarket vent (not purge) one in the companion to this video has worked since I created that other video, but not 100% sure. Sorry!

[@amyyjjane]

I have a check engine light with the codes p2177 and p2187 on my 2007 Mazda 3. I’ve replaced the mass airflow sensor and downstream o2 sensor. My car is having a hard time starting and accelerating. I found something that said a cause could be a stuck open purge value. Do you think that this could have something to do with it?

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching and sorry for the late response. It may, I am not familiar with that code, but the purge should normally be closed. This valve is easy to check on the Mazda 3 per the procedure in this video. Hope this helps !

[@sherwinzuniga4626]

That could very much be your problem. A stuck open purge valve could cause a vacuum leak from the valve, which could lead to a lean condition because your car is getting too much air from the valve, preventing the car from starting because it is cutting fuel to make up for the extra air. Basically, the stuck open valve could be confusing your car.

[@TheAgentAaron]

Not sure if you've resolved your issue but you mention hard to start and accelerate....if when sitting at a light or stop sign your rpms begin to drop and feel as though your engine will stop or does stop, your EGR valve could be a culprit. Just throwing that idea out. It's not a very pleasant job to do. It can be made easy or difficult. Everything I've seen on YT suggests linking together various sockets, going up, down and around this or that. By following this method the first time I learned quickly how to strip a bolt and not get a good placement with the new gasket. So, I redid the job new gasket, tapped the engine block and bolt hole on the EGR valve itself (to accommodate new size bolt) and slightly increased to a new bolt. To make this job easier and with a better result, in addition to disconnecting the battery, draining the coolant and removing the standard engine cover pieces and air box, I also removed the battery, battery box, pulled PCM wires and wire bundle to fises, pulled all wiring back, disconnected coolant hoses, (underneath EGR valve and ECT) and removed the VV tumblers. This gave me a clear path into the EGR without snaking connected sockets through. I replaced the EGR gasket and if you pull the VV tumblers you'll need a new water channel gasket ($5 at auto parts store). I was able to get a good fit, well secured and a drastically noticeable improvement once no air was being successful in around the EGR valve. May or may not be your problem but it was for me a while back and complete disassembly was the trick to a complete and thorough replacement. Hopefully this will be of use at some point. I drive a a 2008 Mazda3 2.0L

[@ap2062]

@amy did you fix?

[@stevel4035]

Something to consider. Is the vehicle fully factory? I had an 08 Mazda 3 that had a mazdaspeed cold air intake. Ended up with a P2187 and P2188 off and on, car would run horrible if at all. Check out the wiring to the MAF sensor. In my case, the short wiring to the sensor was damaged due to being essentially tugged on. The ground wire was the main source of the fault

[@andrewm2008]

From 0:36 - 0:45 do you actually hear air rushing out or does it just make a clicking sound. I tested the same you did and all I hear is the electrical bolt make a sound. Let me know thanks

[@OliverPorter92]

Hi when you apply 12V power, it should open and let air through if you blow on one end. Un-energized, i.e. disconnected, it should not let any air through. This is because the purge is normally closed; it only opens when the ECU commands the engine to draw a vacuum from the engine. Hope this helps!

[@kiratouimoussa6602]

I think the question was about the air flow sound. Is it your mouth's blowing into the hose or it's the part that pulls in air itself (making the noise that we hear in the video)?

[@ricardoramirez3922]

Yes, in the video he's blowing into it.

[@alexpolicarpo4344]

Hello buddy, I have a code p0456 (evap system very small leak) I took it to 2 mechanic and they both said the car is good to just drive it and it will go away but honestly my car cab smells a little like gas and I’m not comfortable driving it even if it drives like it has no issues. I checked this and it is a little wet like around it. You think it could be this? I would appreciate answer please

[@ap2062]

I just watched a video and it could be the locking cap on the gas tank.

[@just_ben1951]

This test by mouth won't work. You need to test with a pressure gauge to see if there is a small leak.

[@OliverPorter92]

Agreed in my other video the small leak was so tiny on the vent solenoid 😂

[@HomeTheatre101]

What would the Symptoms be for a bad one?

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching! -Check Engine Light with P0441/P0446 on Mazda. --If purge valve sticks/does not close fully, un-metered air may enter the engine, causing: -Rough Idle -Hard Starting Car. -Bad Engine Performance -Failed emissions test Hope this helps!

[@HomeTheatre101]

Oliver Porter cool thanks!

[@ceej5714]

@@OliverPorter92 what about p0171?

[@OliverPorter92]

@@ceej5714 Likely something else, fuel pump, filter, or pressure regulator was google's top symptoms for that one. Lower probability of emissions leak.

[@markgibbons4937]

My valve works with your way. Thanks. Now what? Still has check engine light.

[@OliverPorter92]

Thanks for watching. Error is code-dependent and could be several other items in the EVAP system. The other purge error could be a purge that leaks a slight amount of air (need a vacuum gauge to test.)

[@NattyTwinsss]

If that fixed your problem and if that’s the only reason the code came on, then delete the code

[@Ahmad-Str]

@@OliverPorter92 so just to expand on his statement, would the engine light immediately turn off if the purge solenoid is the only issue? Or would it stay on for a little before turning off? Just wondering about how quickly the check system responds to a fix

[@OliverPorter92]

@@Ahmad-Str Hi it has to run through a standard check cycle to test, may take 50+ miles of driving at different speeds; the Mazda check cycles are specified in different forums online. If you have a code reader you can erase the temp code, but it would take the drive cycle to confirm if it is truly gone.

[@Ahmad-Str]

@@OliverPorter92 Ok wonderful, thanks for the quality response, it's very helpful and will keep a lookout when I try and fix my issue soon!

[@thomasedison9838]

Hello my friend I have code P0172:00-E8 Does the gasoline vapor in this video cause damage, please? Mazda 3 2012 engine capacity 1.6

[@tariqchoudry9048]

My friend please help me I have 2010 Mazda cx 9. All mechanics are giving me runaround. Scan is tell me bank 2 running lean and coming up with code 174. They are telling me that engine may have to be replaced. I am confused. Please help. The car has 67000 miles on it

[@PedroHenrique-iv9sp]

I have p144c i replaced everything from the canister to the purge valve and i still have this code coming 🥲