How to test an igniter on a Toyota/Lexus

[@Hman9876]

This is remarkably helpful. Thank you 11 years later!

[@ScannerDanner]

Great! I'm glad you liked it. My plan is to eventually demostrate all of the testing methods that I am listing in my book. For marketing purposes of course and to help out those who have purchased it and need more info.

[@АлексейСоловьёв-ь3щ5ш]

I've solved a tricky case yesterday. Car was brought to my friends garage after it had visited pair of other shops. Also toyota with the same ignitor. Actually Vista 1996. It had a spark, injection pulse, fuel pressure, alll was ok. But wasn't even an slight attempt to start. Great compression also. Ive assumed TP, MAP, timing - it was alll great. Then ive re checked spark. Yes, it could hit spark plug at the atmospheric pressure, but it couldn't hit a gap of spark tester even 1cm of gap. So ive checked the coil, and found out that secondary winding was shorted. But it wasnt all. After coil was replaced, it could hit 0.5 cm of spark tester but not a millimeter more. I was confused as distributor cap was NEW. I ran through powers, grounds, and it all was great. Last test ive done was unplug central wire on distributor, and tried to check how a coil by itself can hit directly without distributor. Without a distributor - coil easily hit 1+ cm of tester. Ive disassembled the distributor, turned out its basement was old, but cap was new chinese cap. After ive cleaned the contacts, ive seen the system to start hitting 1cm of tester, but with a very very weak yellow spark. It wasnt enough to start a car. So new cap was shit. NEW. My friend brought another distributor - car started immediately. So shitty new distributor cap killed secondary winding of previous coil, and could kill new, but i was fast enough to find it out. That was a fix. I was able to fix that, only because i constantly watch your videos and read your book. You help people alll around the world to fix vehicles. Thank you!

[@mileybabydoll8379]

This is exactly what I was looking for with my No Spark. I'm still leaning toward CKP circuit, but this will definitely help me eliminate the igniters and coils! Thanks a bunch!

[@mileybabydoll8379]

Did this test and eliminated the the igniters and packs! Thanks a bunch! (It ended up being the CKP connector, it was oil filled and not making a good connection. Temp fixed and I've scheduled my visit to Pull-a-Part. WOO!)

[@Datdudejerry.]

Miley Babydoll which wire did you probe to test spark

[@ScannerDanner]

Your focus is certainly toward the ignitors but for both of them to fail at the same time seems unlikely. Make sure you check the main power and ground to the ignitors and also make sure the coil(-) wire (measured at the ignitors) is reading a steady battery voltage during cranking. In a working system this coil(-) wire should be pulsing. If you have my eBook refer to Section 22 page 8 and 9 for "control" testing of coil (-)

[@ScannerDanner]

@MrMratni You could. Keep that power probe as far away from the car as possible for my type of testing. In this video what you are doing is energizing the base circuit of a transistor inside of the igniter. I have seen as little as 3v used as a base circuit control. What do you think would happen if you sent 12v to the base with no limit to current flow? The incandescent bulb in my test light is acting as a resistor (a safety net). Your power probe has no resistance!

[@egn83b]

Nice to know. The circuit design does indicate what is going on. The trained mind will know the untrained mind will never know but it is nice to see someone tell us all how to do it one way or the other.

[@studentoflife5625]

I did exactly what you said on my 95 Lexus ls400 because I initially wasnt getting spark from the coil and was coming to the conclusion that my coils are bad but because of this bypass test i got spark to the coil. Im pretty sure its my cam or crank sensor but i have yet to test them to confirm. Anyway, thanks for this great video, really helped.

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

Okay cool! You've confirmed not only coil operation but also igniter function. So this means you are missing the signal from the engine computer to control the igniter. Possible causes: -input problem (cam and crank) -computer problem (powers and grounds need to be confirmed) -shorted reference circuit Tests you can use. 1. Check injector pulse, if you have injector pulse it is most likely not an input problem. 2. Check for a 5v reference to one of your main inputs. I usually use the TPS because of its accessibility. One of the 3 or 4 wires (I think you may have a 4 wire because of an idle contact switch) should read 5 volts. Let me know what you find.

[@studentoflife5625]

ScannerDanner Premium thanks for your reply. I noticed the wires for the cam sensor was rubbing on the belt and damaged it pretty bad so i fixed the wiring. Then I took off the crank sensor and i noticed it was just soaked in oil then i cranked the engine and realized the timing belt wasnt turning, i marked it to be sure. I didnt take off all the timing covers yet so i couldnt see exactly whats going on but belt is tight. Seems like theres a separation somewhere but until i take everything off i dont know. Any idea what this could be?

[@ScannerDanner]

Sure man. If the belt isn't turning the the teeth ripped off a section of the belt. It happens on older belts. Hope your engine isn't a valve bender.

[@studentoflife5625]

ScannerDanner yea i hope so too lol but thanks again for your help.

[@NateSpring]

AWESOME VIDEO!!!! I'm currently wiring a 1UZ into an old Datsun 280z and cant seem to get spark from either coil. I think this may help me quite a bit. Thanks!!

[@davidessien5465]

Scannerdanner you are indeed a pro

[@jonathanrobinson82]

Well done. You explained how to test the igniter system perfectly

[@dreamer2355]

Another excellent demonstration. Im looking forward to purchasing your book to help me in the field!

[@christopher19691]

thank you very clear simple easy instructions nice to see someone actually with automotive knowledge on here

[@ScannerDanner]

+christopher19691 thanks man! I have so many videos just like this. In fact I have almost 600 videos between my two channels now.

[@sara78130]

never see teacher like paul on youtube good vid

[@ScannerDanner]

+KURDISTAN uk thanks my friend!

[@ScannerDanner]

nice! glad to here how much my eBook is helping already. thank you for the comment

[@tretretre2818]

In some cars Such metod to test spark will destroy coil. Try to test Honda Prelude 1991-96

[@ScannerDanner]

Just backprobe the igniter with it plugged in and with the key on. One of the wires should be hot and another should be a constant ground (unless the ground is on the igniter housing)

[@anyway_anyway]

awsume wish i had u as my teacher when i went to school.

[@ScannerDanner]

will do my friend. thanks!

[@patrick00755]

Great video and my question is since you showed a spark is the ecu bad or ignition module? Thanks

[@ScannerDanner]

nice! thank you! i think i had this one in section 2 on pull-up design circuits right? or maybe an example of module to module communication. there are so many that fall in multiple subjects it's getting hard to remember where i placed them

[@sivucit]

Paul, I tried today and it worked, what I did is like used power hook (newly introduced by power probe) and it have the ability to set max amp. I set to 5 and can be extended to 30 amp.. you might like this tool, because it can pulse AC signal, with very less current 50 milliamps as well.. it have lot of features just an fyi..

[@ScannerDanner]

that test will not work for an ignition coil primary circuit. Coils draw from 6-10 amps of current each and your test light doesn't support that type of flow. Does it have no spark on either coil pack or just one?

[@ScannerDanner]

ok cool. do the control testing with a test light flow chart and let me know what you find. also watch my subaru video where i am demonstrating this procedure

[@EC-zq9bz]

Awesome explanation and display of knowledge. Any tips on how I can develop that type of critical thinking. GOD BLESS

[@ScannerDanner]

keep following along and let me teach you. I am an instructor at a technical college (18+ years) thanks!

[@ScannerDanner]

thanks for the comment!

[@MosoteX]

EXCELLENT!! Man thank you -- this made life much safe and easier. I'm on the right track!!

[@ScannerDanner]

Glad it helped!

[@TradeDiagnostics]

Hi Paul Thanks for your help, I agree that both ignitors prob have not failed, I have noticed there is no ground at the ignitor connectors, do they use the ignitor body for a ground?????, I have checked power supply and they are both good while cranking??

[@YouStanceBro]

Hi can you tell of if you fixed this problem ? I narrowed not down to good ecu and good ignitors still not getting spark what could it be ? Crank sensor ? Cam sensor that's the only things it can be maybe a loose ground ?

[@nickayivor8432]

Good Evening ScannerDanner take care and have a great day ScannerDanner God bless you ScannerDanner 👍 Great tutorial thank you 👍 Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

[@ywhchandlerluker7979]

I am currently trying to diagnose my 1996 ls400, I have two codes reading p1300 and p1305. The only steps I have not taken was testing the coils, ecu, and the crank and cam sensors. The vehicle cranks but will not turn over, my question to this video is what wires do I stick the pins in with? The igt#1 is a black and white wire, and igt#2 is brown and yellow based off the diagram in your video. I wasn't sure if those were the wires I was supposed to test.

[@NickAnthonyu6i]

I enjoyed the instruction on this post and it has helped to a point. I am working with a 96 Toyota Tacoma 2.7 liter with a no spark condition. I have tested continuity between crank sensor and ECM, between Igniter IGT B/L wire to ECM and performed the spark test by jumping with a test light 12v to the IGT by back pinning and received spark. What about a vehicle that has IGF safety signal, which if missing will cut fuel pump and spark?

[@JoelAutomotiveInaction]

Paul on 2 wires coil test if install a jumper from battery - to coil - will that coilgenerate spark??

[@ScannerDanner]

no, it will not work.

[@TradeDiagnostics]

I do have you're ebook and its very easy to understand, love it!!!

[@jpinpin_]

amazing information, appreciate you!

[@davehindmarsh81]

Thanks Paul for another great video keep them coming

[@alex530risky9]

still have crank no start I did your by pass test I can hear the spark but there's no visual what would be the suspected component 93 ls400

[@ScannerDanner]

+Alexis Martinez shorted coil. Is the coil inside of the distributor? If so, take the cap off and re-do the test and have a look

[@ScannerDanner]

potential short to ground if it does, however on some of these circuits the light may be dim

[@АлексейСоловьёв-ь3щ5ш]

Hello! What is a current draw of a test light that you use to check Comp-Comp communication like in this video? Thank you for your outstanding job.

[@bernardocisneros4402]

Most incandescent test lights draw around 200 mA and LED lights draw around 20 mA. The one he's using draws about 200 mA when lit, but in this video it's much less since the test light didn't light. You're not going to hurt anything with either light but when troubleshooting it's best to use incandescent light because in some instances the LED will not actuate what you're trying to actuate because not enough current is going through it.

[@sivucit]

Thanks Paul for reply. it doesn't have spark on either coil pack. I am sure the issue is not coil pack just want to experiment ur video for primary circuit. issue is no pulse. I am thinking of using a jumper wire or power probe to test primary circuit.. will wait for ur advise.. will bad Cam shaft sensor will stop the spark , i tested crankshaft i see good wave form, i got injection pulse. will bad CAM shaft stop the spark? thanks in advance.

[@Z14kt12timandjes1]

I seem to be confused on something in this video. Can you help me? Video states "what we want to know is are the igniters sending voltage to the ECU and the ECU is pulling it to ground (pull down) making the square wave? Or is the ECU generating a square wave, sending it to the igniters in a pull-up fashion?" I thought anytime the ECU supplied the voltage side of circuit, it’s pull down. And when ECU supplies ground side of circuit, it’s pull up. What makes this case different? Sorry if this is a dumb question. I'm no technician, just a home learner.

[@ScannerDanner]

The hard part in understanding or determining pull up or pull down circuits is when you have two modules "talking" to each other. Which one is sending, which one is receiving? Which one is the master, which one is the slave? The igniter in this case is the slave, he knows nothing on his own and the ECU is the master and he tells the igniter what to do and when. By unplugging the igniter and measuring the voltage on the harness side, we can determine the design. Sometimes I will follow this rule if my readings are misleading. If the voltage is high, pull it low, if the voltage is low, pull it high. Using your incandescent test light. And then look for a reaction. I have a ton of lessons on this in my chapter 2 playlist on my website if you're interested www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html

[@Z14kt12timandjes1]

@@ScannerDanner thanks!

[@bricemichalski7254]

I have a 1988 Camry That isn’t getting any spark I would like to know if the ignitor in this car has to be grounded in order for it to start? This is a derby car that ran fine until I moved all of the wiring harnesses into the fire wall area of the car

[@davidessien5465]

You did a very nice work here

[@abhorrentgaming1456]

I don't know if you will be able to help but it is worth a shot. I have a 92 ls400 and it is over fuelling like crazy. I had believed it to be the manifold (they were leaking) but after replacing them I'm still stuck with the same problem. Any ideas with where to start?

[@jean-sebastiengagne8772]

Hi mr danner I presently read your book I want to know if you send 12v with test light like video and its 5v control circuit or other like datalink?? It cannot be dangerous?

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you!

[@marineyacht]

do you have any video of lexus Ls400 or 1uzfe engines injectors signal problems, my car have no power on the injectors when i crank the engine.

[@ScannerDanner]

you'll need a diagram. Post this to my forum www.scannerdanner.com, we can help you there with diagram info

[@robertlesaca3964]

even without using a voltmeter, but being a variable as you mentioned in one of your videos, for as long as you see two signal wires running to the computer, it is a pull up circuit design. Can this be said as a general rule of thumb?

[@AN77]

Nice video. So the ECU pull upp the igniter? The igniter than interupt the current flow from the primary windings in the coil, and generate a spark? When you power feed the igniter with the test-light, will not the light use the voltage, leaving almost zero volt to the pin of the igniter? Im a premium member and this video is a part of your book. Is it best to ask questions here in youtube or in the forum? Thanks and best regards.

[@bernardocisneros4402]

@AN77 Inside of that igniter there's a NPN transistor doing the work. When he power feeds the igniter through the IGT wire with the test light, he's feeding voltage to the base of an NPN transistor. It only takes about 0.7 volts to energize the transistor, but 0.7 V is not enough to light the test light. When 0.7 V or more is applied to the base of the transistor, it closes the path between the collector and emitter in the transistor and allows current to flow from collector to emitter. The collector is connected to battery positive and the emitter is connected to coil, so when he touches the IGT wire on the igniter with the test light, current flows from battery to coil and a magnetic field is produced in the primary circuit of the coil . When he removes the test light from IGT wire, the magnetic field collapses, and a high voltage is induced into the coil secondary circuit. Since the secondary circuit of the coil is connected to the spark plug, the spark plug goes pop.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks for the tip!

[@marlinyoung1606]

I don’t know if this has been asked because of so many comments but what if we do the bypass test on the igniter and we still get no spark out of the plug wire?

[@ScannerDanner]

do you have power and ground to your igniter? do you have power to your coil?

[@TradeDiagnostics]

Hi Paul I have a customer with a SC400 Lexus with the same engine as the vehicle you are working on, it has injector pulse but no spark, I have checked the IGT & IGF with my pico and I have both of them on both ignitors, my question is if the IGT & IGF are both present is it still possible that the CAS has failed or can it only be both ignitors failed???

[@stuiecrosbie8560]

Hi Paul, can the ignitor module itself cause a misfire randomly over a long period of time? or most likely be a crank sensor or pcm problem? I had an ignitor die pretty quick,I hear the dizzy shaft if there's play can upset crank signal, crank sensors in the dizzy on my car. Got this misfire issue, swapped back ignitor but still a random misfire, have replaced all ignition parts so next I've got a fuel gauge on the way to check the regulator and pump as the filter is new too.

[@Lagos3sgte]

Fantastic video that is currently helping me diagnose a no spark condition on my Toyota. In my case, the coil blew (visible damage) and it looks like it might have taken out the igniter, as replacing the coil did not fix the lack of spark. I supplied voltage to the IGT pin as you instructed, and the new coil did not fire. Is there any danger in supplying 12v through the test light to what is normally a 5v control signal on the IGT pin?

[@Lagos3sgte]

A new Igniter did fix the problem! Thank you for helping me pin point the problem.

[@ScannerDanner]

awesome, sorry for the late reply. The answer is no with the test light question. I've done it countless times on multiple different components across all car lines. (using a 12v on a 5v circuit) I did some more experimenting with this however and did another video covering this concern. Let me know what you think. In this video, I am controlling the base circuit of a Nissan COP ignition coil (a 0-4v signal, with a 12v test light) and I compare the current draw using both an incandescent and LED type test light. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6i0h5pmeNmeq7M

[@mahalajohns7877]

thanks for your tutorials.. they are easy to follow and very useful. i followed your ignitor trouble shooting vid yesterday on my 92 v8 soarer (it cranks n sounds like not firing n unsure if its getting fuel but i have bypassed the fuel pump and could hear a flow so i dont think its a fuel problem... i hate to admit but i was jump starting it and accidentally let the jumper leads touch n since then its a crank n no start cond. yesterday when checking ignitors i did confirm decent spark from one but not the other. i wasnt sure if maybe i didnt probe the wire properly and tried a few more times. then we decided to try plugging them in oposite because i could easily get a good probe one the one that seemed fine.....AND THEN... i couldnt get either to spark at all... should i not have plugged them in oposite?? it was cold and dark so i may have just not had good contact with probe wire. im going back to try again in the morning and thought i best check incase im flogging a dead horse??

[@PEKENOJU]

hey man how are you? i have a similar problem on my ls400 1993. how did you solve your problem?

[@RajuYadav-fd9wl]

from where will coil get 12v on igt wire incase of pull down design! because there is no positive voltage on coil.will there be a extra 12v feed voltage wire on coil or some capacitor inside of coil to make igt wire 12v

[@aquapulsefuel]

Your a great teacher:)

[@sivucit]

Hi Paul in this video, u had made a point twice, (test light should not light up) when u connect ur positive powered test light to grounded igniter to create a pulse. I am not sure what it means if test light lid, when u are pulling up the circuit.

[@edynmaniapoto4442]

Hi paul, I am nearly finished section2 of ebook and prem channel but stuck on this. I understand the transistor needs a base v+ to switch the primary, so ecu will send square wave to ignitor, like in this video. But I cant fiqure out how it works in a pull down fashion? If you had 12v at the ignitors and pulled down with a test light, how would that be providing a base signal at the ignitor transistor base? If you can point me to a section in your ebook that will make it easier for me to understand that would be awesome. Thanks so much, Edyn.

[@ScannerDanner]

I assume you are talking about electronic switch inputs? If so, some transistors are energized by a base circuit ground. I believe they are PNP types. The NPNs are energized by a base circuit power.

[@edynmaniapoto4442]

ScannerDanner i appreciate the reply Paul. I didnt know about PNP transistors and thought they all switch with b+ at base as you described in your Coil over plug videos, I still have lots to learn. Module to module gets a bit confusing haha. Thanks for the help.

[@ScannerDanner]

Edyn Maniapoto For sure. It is the hardest one to ID and cannot be done sometimes

[@rafaelara123]

Hello, I have 94 lexus sc400 and I have no voltage to fuel pump and no spark. Please help.

[@StanKindly]

Just a long shot. I'm getting codes 13 and 14 on my 93 Toyota truck. It runs fine but has high HC emissions and seems to miss slightly at different rpm's ( lean miss?). Could the igniter be in a default mode if the ECM isn't getting an rpm signal nor controlling the igniter? I mean it runs great but obviously doesn't have proper mixture.

[@ScannerDanner]

define the codes please

[@StanKindly]

@@ScannerDanner 13 is no rpm signal to ECM and 14 is no igniter signal to ECM.

[@ScannerDanner]

@@StanKindly those codes would cause a no start

[@StanKindly]

@@ScannerDanner I cleated the ECM and they haven't come back...my upstream O2 sensor is reading around .17 V at idle. It's running too lean and shouldn't that O2 sensor be between . .40 and .60 even at idle?

[@StanKindly]

...still stays at .17 with the rpm's in creased to around 2000. Haven't checked the other one (its a pain, I m checking directly on the pins unplugged) but that must be the problem no? The lower the voltage the leaner the ECM adjusts the mixture...as I understand it.

[@fivefortyeye540i]

Scannerdanner thanks a hell of whole lot for the all the educational vids. Im a novelist mechanic without any formal tranning. I herd u mention ur book or books wher can I find them?

[@rafaelandresmartinez]

hi can i do the test with a single test light or is a special test light

[@wikeeclown3093]

What if I do this test exactly like you did and the test light lights up really dim when I touch the T pin and I don't get a spark from the coil?

[@rafaelb4454]

Mr danner I try to fix a Lexus ls400 I have spark when I crank the engine and the fuel pump relay is not working is there anyway that I can jump start the relay terminals and see if the fuel pump work or how can I check the fuel pump voltage to determine if the fuel pump is bad

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

Post this to my forum and include the year and engine size please. Thanks www.scannerdanner.com/forum#/

[@jackdietz8239]

Awesome video but i have a question on a 1995 Lexus ES300 with the same problem. My car only has a single igniter. I traced the wires and the igniter is getting power when the key is on but I don't know what wires to set the t-pins in to do your test. There are two banks of wires on the igniter; the one side (A) goes to battery positive, the 6 coils, and the data link connector. The other side (B) goes to the ground, 6 IGT wires, and an IGF wire. Help.

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

+Jack Dietz IF you have no spark on any of the coils it is doubtful the igniter is your issue. But to do my test you would want to energize the IGT wires. Each one would fire 1 individual coil. For example: IGT6 (Grn-red) would fire coil number 6. Of course you would want to have the key on. I would check for injector pulse before doing the igniter tests. If you also do not have injector pulse, then you have an input problem (cam or crank sensor) not an igniter probem

[@jackdietz8239]

+ScannerDanner Premium I only tested one plug to determine that I didn't have spark I did feel the igniter was not the problem once I determined there was power to the unit. Let me give you some background and maybe you can point me in the right direction because I'm really stumped. I drove car it ran great. Later owner asked if I wanted to buy and I was told it had a dead battery. Car was completely dead; I thought the anti-theft system got messed up with the dead battery. Towed it home and started working on it. Charged battery but still every electrical item was not working. Started testing from battery forward and discovered a 100 amp ALT fuse blown. Never seen that before. Once I replaced the fuse thought I had fixed as all the electrical started working but the car cranked but no start. Checked fuel pump and seemed to be working, also sprayed some starting fluid into the intake and got nothing. Checked and tested every fuse and relay; all good and all relays tested for continuity and opening click with a 9v charge. Put a spark tester on one of the plugs and found no spark. Borrowed a scanner from Autozone and tested but no codes. Contacted previous owner and they admitted to crossing the wires to the battery when they tried to jump start the car. That's why the 100 amp fuse blew I guess. Anyway any help to get me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. I have a 1994 Camry service manual which is apparently the one for this car also but I don't see anything about how to test the ECU which is my current thought.

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

+Jack Dietz with the key on measure your voltage on the TPS . What we are looking for is a 5v reference. It is the best "am I alive" test for the ECU. I have videos on this. Search 5v reference under my video page. Let me know what you find.

[@jackdietz8239]

+ScannerDanner Premium I've got 5v at the blue/red stripe wire on the TPS with the ignition on. So am I to assume that I'm getting this power from the ECU and my ECU is probably good. If it is I'm not sure where to go next. I feel like I'm running out of options.

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

+Jack Dietz yes, it suggests at least that the ECU is at least partially alive. With the battery connected the way it was, it is possible that portions of the ECU got cooked as well as other sensors. Attack it like it never happened. Cover all your bases. If you have no spark, check for injector pulse next. If you do not have injector pulse then check crank and cam signals next. If you have injector pulse then your cam and crank sensors are probably okay and we go in another direction.

[@MrMratni]

Mr Paul, If I use a power probe using a bypass test on any pull-up design component, will I fry the PCM right off the bat?

[@p51302]

I have an uneasy feeling when you applied 12v to pull up. How about if the igniter only expected 2v, 5v, or 7v? Isn't it possible to supply too much voltage? I understand the pull up resistor will prevent too much current flow.

[@ScannerDanner]

There is a good reason to be cautious. Watch this video How to test a C.O.P. ignition coil And also this one How to troubleshoot a no spark condition with a test light (Subaru) (this Subaru uses a 12v signal to fire the base of the transistors)

[@fermate1991]

Excellent master lesson. Thank you.

[@bazzan77]

follow instructions to a tee. used test light and got spark to both coils. However when i crank there is no spark to either. got a new coils and crank sensor and still nothing. I am being told that i may have to check cam sensors? car was running well but had a starter issue for 2 weeks. on this day starter seem to have jump(loud noise) but car started ok. drove home and park and wont start when cranking. Timing belt was changed about 6 months ago. what is your suggestion? Located in the Bahamas and no certified or knowledgeable Lexus mechanic around.

[@ScannerDanner]

The test you did proved you didn't need coils or the igniters. Why did you change the coils? Crank sensor was a good direction but we should have tested it first too. I could have helped you with that. Post this to my forum okay? I'll help more there. Next step, we need to see if the ECU is alive by testing the 5v reference circuit. www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html

[@gravey07]

You are the man.

[@RonnieFrazier-ch1hq]

Thank you for sharing this video this should help me on my 1996 4 cl Camry the coil sparks intermittent and and tach jumps when the key is in the run position - when this happens the car won’t start if it does start it will start every time till it sits over night - then this happens every time - I do have a scope and this video thanks !

[@ScannerDanner]

That sounds like a bad or loose computer ground

[@sivucit]

Paul, I need ur help. I have ford f150 truck with waste spark, it has 3 wire. One is power 12v always, rest of 2 wire are control wire for 2 ignition coil firing total of 4 spark plug, 2 per coil. problem is iam not getting pulsed ground in those 2 wires. pls note PCM has built in ICM . I have to check crank sensor and cam sensor, but after watching ur vides, as part of curiosity, I connected test light grounded and touched momentarily the control wire and see no spark in plug.. any advise.

[@jeffpolaras9273]

I have 93 Lexus LS-400....only running on 4 cylinders....no spark to plugs from drivers side Distributer....has spark from coil going into Distributer but nothing coming out of Distributer..changed rotor..cap..still same...spark from coul wire very small and almost have to touch coil wire end directly to get spark....coil tested ok at AutoZone with meter at 200 ohms...is it possible for coil to bench test ok but not put out enough voltage?

[@Montirproindonesia]

Nice explanation..Great job Buddy..

[@ivantmj]

Hi, I have a problem with my corolla 93, recently my ignition coil fail in my car, i change it and ir work perfectly but now my car dosen't mark the RPM in my dashboard so my cuestion is, what can be the problem?

[@901Made]

Ok I went out there with my laptop and tried to do what I saw you do but I don't know which wires on either side to put the metal prongs in so if you have no problem tellin me then I could stratch it off list

[@alex530risky9]

so been having no spark, coils are good ckp is good haven't checked cmp or icm so if the icm does not give the spark when given source voltage then the bad component will be the icm correct..... and if not will a cmp cause no spark?

[@ScannerDanner]

+Alexis Martinez I'm sorry, what are you working on? year, make, model and engine please. Thanks!

[@alex530risky9]

93 ls400

[@d.e.h.p3090]

hi paul this is a good video, I am from venezuela and I have a lexus ls 400 of 92 my vehicle no crank no signal arrives at the coils, I tried to test the two modules but the voltmeter showed me more than 12 volts, and I could not see the spark coming out of the coils, I did not know what else to do since I do not speak English but I have a clear perception of what you teach, sorry if I do not write well, I am helping with the translator I need Your help to know how I can do to start my car. In my country there are few vehicles of this model. so I do not find a good technician with the necessary knowledge, everything that I have fixed to my vehicle I have done watching tutorial by you tube I would really appreciate it if you can help me

[@901Made]

Ok I actually have the same car having that problem and you help me out a long way with your video so I was wondering what could I check next because I tried that and had no spark so plz if you can help me out I will appreciate it brother

[@ScannerDanner]

@Viper81766 It will be available soon as a PDF download. I'll keep you posted. In the mean time send me your email in a private message and I will add you to the list

[@Viper81766]

Great videos!!! Where can I purchase your book?

[@BUZDRIFT]

so would you ground it if Igniter has 12v?

[@alex530risky9]

hey got spark my igniters were not bolted to my chasis so now im only getting spark with test light my ckp is new and cmp show good resistance value and my ecu was just verified good a couple weeks ago what can I do now also have no fuel only when jumped at b+ and fp diag port

[@mattcrawford4752]

i am melting my brain going between your book and the video. At 4:55-5:10 it seems like you are describing a pull down as being a pull up and vice versa. If the coils are sending voltage to the ecu and the ecu is pulling it to ground would it not be a pull up, next you describe it being a pull up if the computer is making a square wave(supplying a power) to the ignitor. would that make it a pull down instead? im very sorry for the bother and i hope its not a dumb question

[@ScannerDannerPremium]

Not dumb at all! It's really perspective when it come to communication between two modules. Which module are you referring too? Is the question in your mind. I recently (last week) uploaded a lecture on my premium channel that is exactly what your looking for. m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/opzRoHl7o7WLnKs

[@Blingg23]

Awesome video dude !

[@ScannerDanner]

fancy toyota names for ignition control and ignition monitor signals.

[@medosindi7288]

Dear sir my car is Camry 1993 before there wasn’t spark on ignition coil but after i did your way by test light on igniter pin IGT white color wire its responding to start but again cut off what’s could be issue please help

[@charleshenson7756]

Hello, I am trying to register an account on your forum to ask for help in troubleshooting a P1300 OBDII code on a 1996 Toyota 4runner. I have yet to receive a confirmation email. Not sure if it just takes time but I figured I could give you an introduction here. I have been following diagnostic instructions in my Factory service manual but so far they all pass. There are a couple of results I am having trouble interpreting. Basically the engine dies at idle after a specific amount of time. According to the FSM if the ECU does receive a confirmation of ignition (IGF) signal after a number of IGT cycles then the fuel is cut. I have much more detail to add when I get access to the forum. Thank you.

[@ScannerDanner]

It takes up to 24 hours to receive a confirmation. If your still having trouble email [e-mail] My Web designer will fix you up. Thank you! I look forward to your post

[@joshparker7263]

So I found I have a pull up design on my 4runner. I took a test light from bat positive to my igt wire and got spark every time. So I went and checked my cam and crank coils located inside distributor and found that my g- and NE weren't within specification. I also saw that the air gap on one of the coils were arching as the distributor turned. Could this be the cause of my "start" "nostart" problem I'm having?? And am I going to need a new distributor?

[@Jose4416]

Hey scannerdanner. I have a 1993 Toyota pickup with the old OBD and the DTC code that I get is telling that the ( igf signal from the igniter is not input to ECM for 6 consecutive ignitions ). can you me with that I would greatly appreciate it. thanks so much. further, the truck works but vibrates a lot. looking forward to here from you. Buy the way I have a career diploma as an electronic technician. that is why this video caught my attention so much, thanks.

[@ScannerDanner]

yes they probably ground on the housing

[@901Made]

Scanner I did the test and got input voltage of 5 but the coils are not firing at all so is that a bad igniter because I did trace the wires from each coil on both sides to make sure that the wires are good so I'm really trying help brother

[@johnnadiger7782]

I have 1999 four runner with a 3.4 liter engine runs great at an idle stop in the gas me sputters and does not want to create power but if you feather the gas pedal it creates power. It shows no codes when put on the tester also just put in a catalytic converter Any ideas on what the issue is?

[@ScannerDanner]

Check your fuel pressure next. Any further help that you may need, post your question here. scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html Thanks!

[@IntoTheMindlessAbyss]

Is this a common issue with a 1991 Toyota Previa? I'm having a no spark issue. I'm hoping this really can give me a solution.

[@ScannerDanner]

Not sure, but I have plenty more no start, no spark videos that will help you. Let me know what you find. You can also post to my forum scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html

[@lilzap6593]

ScannerDanner

[@itsalifestyle496]

I got a 1997 Toyota Corolla and it says p1300 I need help on fixing it

[@ainsliegreer8202]

I have a 1992 lexus ls400 yesterday my car windows ,dash lights,and ac went out on me but the car still did run but now today those problems are still plus it wont start it clicks like the battery is down but the battery is still good please help

[@rafaelb4454]

i do have spark but i dont have 12 v At The fuel pump The fuel pump relay is burn and i just want to know how can i bypass to have power At the fuel and relay conection i dont even have a 2 second pulse or prime. so i have spark by using your method but no prime or no voltage At the fuel pump relay a little help will be apreciated thank you

[@midiman5045]

Good info. But I am a little is dismay about goofy design with 2 distributors and 2 coils. It's a Lexus, you can look at it this way. It cost them way more to add the 2 coils and distributors that just to use one. Yes I agree more time to trouble shoot but they were not cheap on the car.

[@xbugster]

Nice vid! Gonna try it out on my sc400 1uz equipped. :) Any injectors testing guide ?

[@ScannerDanner]

Follow my chapter 17 18 and 19 playlist for all kinds of injector testing kzbin.info/www/bejne/o561mZaMoK-Xm7M

[@xbugster]

thank you !

[@the1coolkidd]

Would this be more chapter 3 and power side switching? I thought pull up was with inputs. The ecu seems to be controlling the igniter and not really “watching”. My brain is fried from binging on the premium channel (BrannonG92) so I am still probably confused a bit. I really want to master chapters 2 and 3 before moving on any further!

[@ScannerDanner]

Chapters 2 and 3 are THE most important chapter. It is a good place to stay for awhile. Then don't forget about my SDP 2.0 playlist where I am teaching through these chapter yet again, using different examples and case studies when I can.

[@ScannerDanner]

This one would fall more under the module to module communication listed in chapter 2. Yes, you could easily confuse these two chapters within this particular procedure and to be honest, there probably is some crossover here.

[@the1coolkidd]

ScannerDanner I’m not leaving these chapters before I feel I can finish your sentences explaining these concepts lol and oh trust me Paul I’ve already been on the SDP 2.0 and it’s great! Waiting on the chapter 3 stuff to come out on that playlist as we speak haha I’ve been signed up to your site for 3 or 4 months now and am MILES ahead of where I started. My father has been a mechanic his entire life and on more than one occasion your website has allowed me to teach him a thing or 2. You have a member for life 😊

[@ScannerDanner]

@@the1coolkidd That's awesome man, thank you! I think we have maybe 1 or 2 more videos to finish up chapter 2, then we will be starting to upload the newest chapter 3 material. But I have some great CAN system videos coming up too that I want to get out to you guys, so it may be a little bit. Sitting here typing this, yeah, I'm doing a CAN video for you guys next.

[@the1coolkidd]

ScannerDanner I’ll definitely be checking the CAN stuff out before too long. Right now, knowing very little, it seems super complicated. But like everything else you do I know you’ll explain it in a way that’s easy to follow and understand! Keep it up Paul 👍🏻