How to test and replace gas oven igniter/glowbar

[@gregbgregb8487]

Your channel always come through for me

[@drewengles4477]

very helpful. thank you. Working on replacing my second igniter in 2 years from my GE range and looking for a refresher course. leaving foil on the bottom or even a using a pizza stone consistently seems to be the culprit to burning these things out.

[@justins316]

we started using a pizza stone a few months back and all of a sudden we're having the same problem.......... what about them causes the issues, do you know? thanks very much

[@drewengles4477]

@@justins316 I think the pizza stone causes too much heat generated near the core igniter. Move the pizza stone to the middle rack instead

[@jackMcRyder]

@@justins316perhaps you are not supposed to use a pizza stone at the complete bottom ?

[@amrappliancemaintenanceand9428]

Where have you been? Your help has always been great!

[@kathilewis6684]

In the process of replacing ours. Same exact range you have. Took a bit to find you....lol. hopefully this works. Do the small elements always have to look burned out or no? Was hoping you would show that in the video. Also for those asking, you can call whirlpool for parts...this was $85.00 before shipping and tax. Or I went to local appliance dealer. Cost $85.00 after shipping and tax...so a few dollars saving there.

[@kathilewis6684]

Success!

[@moneyman6456]

Man you is a life saver thank you for this video ❤❤❤❤

[@johnnieccrn6187]

My oven igniter keeps going out and has to be replaced, it just went out again. The last one was installed in Jan. My oven is a GE and has 2 igniters one for the oven and one for the broiler. Is there a extention wire so I don't have to pull the stove out to access the wire. I can pull the wire on the broiler one out but not the oven one. And why does it keep going out. I have had to replace it every 1-2 years but this last one only 6-7 months. Thanks

[@Mytagz]

This is my problem too. Replaced the ignitor, used the oven twice, and it has now gone out again.

[@bradfisher2952]

My Kenmore gas oven made a click then popped the breaker. After that it won't heat up. I changed out the igniter but the new igniter won't light either. Broiler and range top still work. Any thoughts?

[@theapplianceapprentice3776]

Solid. All your videos are top notch 👍👍do the schematics show you what amps you should be getting or is it universal

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

I would say 95% of them are the 3.2 to 3.6 amp range. Most defective igniters will show you 2.8 amps or so. They can be broken and not pull any amps at all. May sure the igniter is getting 120v or ohm the igniter. Not sure what the ohm value is supposed to be. I mostly just get an eye in the igniter and see if it’s broken or not. Just a quick tip for your videos, turn your camera sideways.

[@theapplianceapprentice3776]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair thank you I'll do them sideways from now on!

[@kaywhygg6980]

Im trying ti fix a ge wall oven like in your wall oven fuse video but im having a hard time getting behind it, i dont have a multimeter with a clip can i still use my multimeter ? Im thinking its the fuse or the control module/panel. But if i just tried to light it and see if the igniter got red like that then i can move to the back to ccheck the fuse. The power works but doesn’t heat up bake or broil it turns on and stays at the startimg of 100 when normally you hear it light up within 39 seconds

[@James-us8nt]

Possible for igniter to crumble from shoving the oven over a little bit? Had to move the oven a bit which is a bit old but went to move it back and I'm getting a decent amount of popping or crackling sounds. I have Parosmia so i can't smell things correctly at the moment so turned it off after hearing it popping for a bit. Don't have a meter to check atm but am able to take the bottom out and look around. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

[@melanielandon6924]

Thanks so much it helped me so it myself

[@whhuttohutto2268]

I’ve replaced my igniter with a brand new one and it is still only drawing 2.7 amps. I purchased it from a reputable appliance repair shop. Could it be anything else?

[@barnabasmorton6795]

Have the same oven , what part is that. The model of the igniter

[@jbod2018]

Awesome video… thanks

[@yevgeniyburda1332]

Thank you very good for very good info . What if my igniter not coming on at all , that could be a control board issue ? Can it be safety preventing igniter to glow ?Thank you

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Could be the igniter going out completely. If for breaks or in an open position the bar will not glow. You can verify by making sure it get 120vac down to the igniter.

[@mhalquist]

I’m having similar issue. My igniter won’t glow. I disconnected and test it out of oven and it will glow. So wondering if something to do with board or relay?

[@robertgreatsinger9179]

Thanks , that looked like Mom's style Whirlpool..... I don't have that tester but gentleman in other video suggest these are usual problem... Lol

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Was that the problem?

[@robertgreatsinger9179]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair igniter glows but oven does not heat up. I ordered the igniter from Genuine Repair Parts, got it Thursday... Work out of town so on way home now... I don't have tester, so winging it...

[@robertgreatsinger9179]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair WFG320MOBW0 -Whirlpool

[@essam8697]

Thanks for the video. Is it the same procedure for testing and replacing an infrared broiler igniter? is the igniter the same? Thanks

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Should be similar yes. May not be exact but should be close.

[@edgarnoriega9698]

How much energy have to pay for this kind of stove ?

[@nottthereyet4872]

Question: If you have not checked the amps on a newly installed replacement igniter, but the oven works well, does that mean the igniter connection is okay?

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Yeah if it is working you're good. I just showed what they were supposed to look like. You should be good to go!

[@nottthereyet4872]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thanks so much! Puts our mind at ease.

[@UkeDoggie]

Great video, thanks for helping me save some money!

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

No problem 👍

[@MarkTurnbaugh-e9k]

Hello. I need to order a new igniter but the oven has two.one for bottom broiler area and the one bake area. My question is range igniter glow bar and the other is labeled igniter glow bar. Model pgs930yp6fs

[@ponylatin]

Very helpful -Thanks !!!

[@Coollady488]

Are electricity went out one day when it came back on I went to use the oven and my ignitor won't glow at all can you help me😢

[@gregdoh]

That's what happened to me as well- happened after a piwer outtage, so I just started looking into the issue. What did you end up doing?

[@handsomepackage7004]

Which new ovens have a glow bar? I have a whirlpool model W10775533A with a ignition lighter that went out 5 days ago. The cost is about $390.00 to replace. Which would probably go out again. I used to have a 1984 O’Keefe and Merit with a glow bar which lasted 30 years until the oven door hinge broke. Then I bought this piece of crap at a Best Buy Sale for under $600.

[@katelee3956]

Thank you for this! So helpful. Where did you get the ignitor from? How much did it cost? I’m tempted to call someone to come and fix it but if i can save some money and do it myself then that would be much better.

[@johnnieccrn6187]

The part is about 30.00, It is not hard I have done it several times. No special tools. Even for me a women. I just wish I could find out why mine keeps going out. Good luck

[@katelee3956]

@@johnnieccrn6187 I got the part and put it in myself 😃👍🏽 Cheers!

[@qigong1001]

So, maybe I don’t understand how ovens work. When you activated the igniter with your clamp there, what if the gas lights? I’m assuming the gas valve is off? Is this correct?

[@malkiefrank1300]

the gas valve must be on or the oven won't light. It takes about 30 second or so for the ignitor to get to full glowing power and then a couple more seconds for the gas to actually light. Take it off quick once it measures enough amps. or just plan to cut the oven off after it reads a number you're satified with. Then turn the oven back on to make sure you are actually getting gas and the oven fully lights.

[@qigong1001]

@@malkiefrank1300 So the test is for the proper current for proper igniter function, NOT if it turns on or off. I asked several repair guys and they test it with gas OFF, since it does not affect the current which is what you are interested in for this clamp-meter test. In our case, our oven sometimes ignited, sometimes did not . I tested our igniter with gas off and it had current, but below the proper number. Probably from the little cracks I saw. We changed it, and it works perfect for quite some time now. Saved $$$$

[@Pretzel114]

Hi, love your vids. I am a apprentice technician. I wanted to ask, what do you do when you come across a appliance you never worked on before? Being a new tech I worry about messing up when the home owner is watching. Thanks for any advice.

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Thanks man. I run into units I haven’t seen before all the time. Problems I’ve never seen before as well. You can do this the rest of your life and still run into new things. It’s just part of the job. What I recommend is being persistent. Don’t give up easy. It will pay off more often than not. I’ll be in a call where I expect to have it figured out in 30 minutes. Next thing I know I’m 2 hours in but I have an idea of what the thing is doing. Never give up, never surrender. I look at each repair as a boxing match. I will not lose lol. The appliance may win a round or 2 but I will end up kicking it’s butt in the end. Having a working knowledge of how these things work is key. You may run into an appliance that you have never seen before but they work essentially the same way. It may be designed a little different than another brand or model but they do the same thing. Where it gets tricky is with high end brands like Viking. I hate working on those things. Way too complicated in my opinion. Parts are too expensive as well. So know how the appliance you’re working on works. A washer fills, agitates, drains and spins. That’s it. The way it taken apart could be different or may have a transmission a different type of drive mechanism and you can narrow down your issue just by know what it’s doing or not doing. Listen to the customer complaint. You can find the problem a lot of times just by listening to what the customer has to say about it. Some key words tip me off to what to look for. Out of balance washer, look for bad suspension rods. Refrigerator not cooling in the fresh food but cooling in the freezer. I look for a fan or defrost problem. The longer you do this the more you will figure out trends. If you have a call go bad look at it as a learning experience. If you broke a tab or something taking something apart all you can do is learn from it and move on. May lose some money doing it but you learned something in the process. With these new appliances knowing diagnostics helps a lot. It can point you in the right direction. You can also test things on command. One that that helps with customers making you think you are a seasoned tech is going straight into diagnostics and getting error codes off these machines. Going right to the tech sheet when you get there surprised them as well. Little things like that can make you look good. Not giving up can as well. Customers appreciate that kind of stuff. I hope this was the info you are looking for. I loved the question and glad I could share some of this stuff I have learned over the years. I was in your shoes just a short 5 years ago. Started doing this work in 2015. If you care about the customer and their appliance you will do fine. Don’t get complacent and be a part changing monkey. You may get the the point where you know what the problem is just by listening to the customer but it will take just a little bit of time. One last thing. Having access to tech line or a Facebook group may help as well. Early on I relied on them. A couple times a week. Occasionally now a days. Starting out you need access to help on occasion. You can’t know everything. Lol. Take care and good luck on you endeavors my friend. P.S. The use and care manual will help you understand the little tid bits of each appliance. I ran into a washer the other day where it wasn’t filling up in the rinse cycle. Found the info in the book about which setting does what and in this particular case the customer was using the “Normal” cycle which is the special cycle now a days. It uses less water so it was a spray rinse instead of a tub fill rinse. Use and care manuals can prevent you from chasing a problem that doesn’t exist. Use and care manuals help you out by letting the customer know what they are doing right and wrong. I refer to them on a constant basis.

[@Pretzel114]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair Thank you so much for taking the time to comment and give me your advice. You gave me a lot of things to keep in mind and things that also made me feel a little less scared lol. You mentioned the Viking brand, I just worked on one with the fellow I am riding with and my goodness I can see why you hate those things lol! I wish there were more techs willing to lend a hand as you do. Again, thank you so much for the advice. Keep the vids coming cause I'll be watching them. Be safe out there.

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

I will make em as long as I have the time and motivation lol. Guys like you he’ll keep that motivation up! Btw I added one more tip at the bottom of that last comment for you. About use and care manuals.

[@Pretzel114]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair thanks again sir. I can see how those manuals would help. I mean, if you can't operate the unit how do you know what may be right. Great advice. Thanks.

[@mayeri3083]

Wow thanks. Been looking everywhere for what the measurements 3.2-3.6 meant. I thought it meant ohms of resistance. Here was my question and freind took me to your video! Great job I must say and will do the test right now. Just curious does ohms of resistance ever give you an accurate reading for an oven ignitor? Yes it can tell you if the element is broken but what about if it's weak or not? Changed an oven ignitor, reason for changing was supposedly a weak ignitor. (Claimed it wasn't heating up as fast and cooking time takes much longer). I've changed the ignitors on that oven quite often, in my opinion it's an old oven and I would put it out for the sanitation. But being that it's not mine I have the ability of a suggestion and not much more! ;) Now the oven ignitor looks perfect, so to double check that I took two different multi meters, a cheap $10 one from Craftsman and then a more expensive one from Greenlee and got the same results of 245 ohms of resistance. Now being that I'm not sure what the normal ohms of resistance is supposed to be, I did a quick Google search with results showing 3.2-3.6 is the normal amount. Not exactly sure how to get those numbers and then the other results that turned up were 40-400 or 70-180, which were possible to achieve. With lot's of mixed reports, i took it to the next level and tested with my two multi meters once again another 4 brand new Oven ignitors and came back with results of 109, 98, 225 and lastly from all 4, a real OEM GE ignitor which came back with 51 ohms of resistance, yes the other three were knock-offs for a fraction of the price of a real GE ignitor. So hoping I can find a someone here who is familiar with the correct range of ohms of resistance for a working igniter? Meaning what display should I find on my multimeter for a week igniter?

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

Not sure about a resistance reading. I just get amp readings. I wish I could answer your question I just know what amps they should be around. OEM parts are a must on these appliances. I have installed aftermarket parts before and have been burnt because of it. Either they fail early on or spring a leak in a water valve. I only work with OEM parts now. Good luck though and thanks for the question, sorry to be of no help there.

[@mayeri3083]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair Not to worry! You were very helpful with the video of yours, been searching for a while for a vid in how to test a week ignitor and for some odd reason none of these showed up! But now that I found it, it came in handy!

[@mayeri3083]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair I love the way you tackled the job by putting your multi meter clamp in the oven and saving time by not going under or in the back. But in your video or the beginning of your comments on the video you should advise that it's best to test it on the bottom where the tray is located, or by pulling the oven out a bit and test from behind vs working with a live oven(meaning an open flame), even though it takes around 60 seconds to ignite.

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

That is a great point. I’ll have to do that! Thanks for the tip

[@mayeri3083]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair Your welcome!

[@pattyabbey4894]

Your awsome

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

I Know ;)

[@javieroliva5893]

My GE oven smells like gas I replaced the ignitor and still does not ignite I smell the gas so is it the oven temperature sensor or the bake burner tube?

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

If you’re smelling gas your valve should be working. I’m leaning towards your tube. Did you see any damage on it when you replaced the igniter? They rarely go bad but you can see it damaged if it does 99 percent of the time. I would make sure the igniter is aligned properly. The valve should not let gas through unless it’s warm enough to light the gas. If it’s not aligned properly you can run into a similar issue.

[@tombrown1032]

AWESOME!!!

[@goldwoodguy20]

thanks for the video man, I replaced the ignitor, and burn tube, the oven lights but I'm still getting preheating and cooking gas smells and the occasional "mini gas explosion" poof, Do you think its a bad ignitor not drawing enough amps? I'm picking up a clamp meter to test soon

[@BeardedApplianceRepair]

I would make sure your putting on the right one. Give me your model number and I’ll make sure your putting the right one on. Igniter can cause that issue yes. Also the gas valve can. I can look up both for you if you like. If igniter is the right one I would do the gas valve next. Also called the safety valve.

[@goldwoodguy20]

@@BeardedApplianceRepair mgs5875bds21 seems like i fixed the issue of flame lifting off burner by closing air mix off a bit from the burn tube. factory setting must have been too rich of air?kzbin.info/www/bejne/sKbLhquwabmLfqM ignitor is pulling 3.4amps

[@gamelover420]

Would’ve enjoyed a cowboy music in the background with a eeeee haaa at the end.

[@CJ-xd2xr]

naw music's fine

[@Coollady488]

My glow plug on my gas range will not even glow😢

[@Coollady488]

Mine doesn't either so that's why I am going to replace it with a new one hope it works

[@obsoleteprofessor2034]

Where's the grease and mouse poop?

[@Noved-jv2mi]

Shalom good health

[@ohmyquadfpv6648]

Very helpful. Thank you!