How to Test Glow Plugs From Start to Finish (With a Multimeter) - The Complete Guide.

[@legolasengine4073]

While watching all these videos, I have never seen an explanation as detailed and simple as you. I really thank you.

[@doitup]

Hi, thank you for letting me know. It's much appreciated... 😃

[@ssdivizion]

Dude, you deserve a big round of applause for this educational video in the style of Do-It-Yourself at Home....Thank you very much and God bless you

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know it helped you out. It's much appreciated... 😃

[@MrZimmaframe]

7:25 I would recommend to everyone before you start removing the glow plugs blow out the surrounding area of the glow plugs with compressed air to prevent and dirt, grit or grim from entering the cylinder or cylinder head threads when installing the new glow plugs.

[@doitup]

Great tip, just make sure you wear some safety specs before blowing any debris out... 😀

[@brendanzio]

yes, definitely, and plug the holes with something too if possible in case anything falls/gets dropped down the glow plug holes

[@jomendez6929]

@@doitup lol yes

[@XIXjlo]

Very clear and simple to understand. I came looking on KZbin as my truck is struggling to start in the current extreme cold weather in UK. Best glow plug issue video I seen today.

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for your comments. It's great to know you found it useful and that it helped you out... 😃

[@Tony-ot4mh]

This has to be the best video on glow plug servicing on the internet, not to mention the calming music. I de stressed about my glow plug issue watching it. Well done, to the point and super clear to understand, thank you.

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for your comments. It's much appreciated, (as it took a fair bit of time to edit). I still made a few mistakes though, (typo's, etc)! Glad it helped you out... 😃

[@connybernhardsson5946]

Wow. It's a really good and calm video that just saved me time and money! Love it!

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for your comment. It's much appreciated... 😃

[@phill3144]

Another basic test is you use a 12v tester with a bulb, put the clip of light tester to battery positive and touch each glow plug, it's a loaded test so if the plug is good the test light should light up, if not, it's defective, don't use an led light tester. You can make a light tester with a headlight bulb and wire if you have no tools. Great video

[@doitup]

Hi, that's a great tip, and well explained. That should help anyone who doesn't have a test meter, or needs another test to confirm a defective glow plug... Thanks for sharing... 😃

[@GeorgiParvanov81]

Thank you for the complete and nicely done guide! Very helpful! 🙂

[@doitup]

Hi, thank you. Your comments are very much appreciated... 😀

[@unicorn_catcher]

Thanks for taking the time to share this. Super helpful and informative.

[@doitup]

Hi, Thanks for letting me know. It's much appreciated... 😃

[@derekbond3512]

Superb video, straight forward and easy to follow this tutorial, thank you.

[@doitup]

No problem... Thanks for your positive comment... 😃

[@gemeinsamesfamilienkonto3304]

Thanx for this Video. A Tip from me: please pay attention! There is a difference in the operating voltage of the glow plugs in the car. There are 5 volt and 12 volt glow plugs. The difference can be seen in the color of the insulator between tip + and thread -. Yellow or orange insulator are 5 volt glow plugs. Black insulator are 12 volt glow plugs. The voltage for 5 volt glow plugs is regulated by the control unit.

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for the great tip. It's a very valid point. Just to expand on voltages a bit, (just looked at the NGK catalogue to see the actual range of voltages). There is a large number of different glow plug voltage specifications for vehicles, ranging from 4.4v all the way up to 23v. The majority appear to be rated at 11v. However, it should be noted that the 11v glow plug will work perfectly fine on 12v, which is the case in the video. I guess they're rated at 11v, in case the output from the vehicle's electrical system is low. Plus they will have a + or - operating tolerance, (which isn't quoted). As you say, the 5v glow plugs will be used on a 6v system, or the voltage will be regulated down to 5v by the control unit. 23v glow plugs will no doubt used on a 24v system. I didn't realise there was a colour coding system. However, I would only use a colour indicator as a guide (past experience, where manufacturer's don't strictly adhere to helpful indicators). The thing to take away from this is, always check your part numbers on the manufacturers website to ensure the correct part is being ordered and fitted. If your vehicle system is 12v and you find 5v at the glow plug (and you don't have a manual). Check the glow plug specifications on the manufacturers website, to check the voltage is correct. 😃

[@drive67ray]

that was a great video not looking forward to this job when it comes along but when it does i will feel better prepared

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know it helped you out. It makes the time and effort making the video all worthwhile... 😀

[@joeedwards627]

You can check them quickly and easily before even removing them with just the spanner to undo the nut holding the wire

[@doitup]

Hi, yes, you're quite right. See the video here... Measure the Resistance (Still Fitted... kzbin.info/www/bejne/lZPbk5-miq6Lpsk. It should be noted that the resistance values of the glow plugs (when fitted), can be different to when they are measured (removed). This is because of the potential for additional resistance when measuring, (say between the tip of the glow plug and an earth point elsewhere). Measuring the resistance (when fitted) should still give a good indication if a glow plug is any good, but there may be occasions when it could give the wrong result? I.e. If a test shows the glow plug as OK, it should be fine. However if it shows bad, it's worth checking when the glow plug is removed just to make sure... There is a table of results here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHfVp62pqaukrac that gives an illustration of the different results, (when fitted and removed). Thanks for your comment, it's great to have extra info that can help others... 😃

[@joeedwards9721]

Just remove the feed wire, activate the feed, tap the wire on the plug, if it draws with a spark it's good, no need for a multi meter or removal. Takes seconds if plugs accessible

[@doitup]

Hi, great tip. Thanks for the extra info... Nice and easy... 😃👍

[@goober650NX]

Really, really good video.👍👍 Very clear, logical and easy to follow.👌 Well done. Thanks for making the video and for taking the time to upload. 🍻

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for your comments. It's much appreciated and makes the effort worthwhile... 😁

[@garydavo07]

PV = n R T

[@doitup]

Hi, on first glance this looks completely wrong and could have been auto directed into the offensive spam box! Definitely a bit of gas, pressure, volume. And with a bit of help from the glow plugs... Temperature. Spot on... 😁

[@xdagasx4153]

Cant be more clear and easy :) Thank you ;)

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know. It's much appreciated... 😃

[@danielschmalz806]

Vielen Dank für das Video. Es war gut verständlich.

[@doitup]

Hallo, kein Problem. Freut mich, dass Sie es nützlich fanden. Danke, dass Sie mich informiert haben, das weiß ich sehr zu schätzen.... 😃👍

[@dorinp007]

Wonderful, thanks a lot. Next video suggestion: How to remove, clean the bores and reseat injectors. This little Corsa seems to be in dire need of this.

[@doitup]

It certainly was... It took me about 5 days to extract one injector. I had to keep walking away in despair and coming back to it. I even made a bespoke tool to jack the injector out, but would it budge... Perseverance got the injector out in the end. Moral of the storey... Always clean the seats and use new copper washers on replacing the injectors. Don't go, "oh, they look pretty good" and put them back as they were... 😕 You were spot on. Thanks for your reply, it's much appreciated... 😄👍

[@maggieandsydfathers8748]

Absolutely brilliant! So informative, and clear instructions. Thank you for posting this. Very professional and extremely helpful. 12:08

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for your comment. It took a while to make the video, so it's much appreciated... 😃

[@m.bouanane4455]

When testing the supply voltage, how to connect the 2 cables of the multimeter? Or just using the red/positive one? Thx.

[@doitup]

Hi, unfortunately I missed this bit (oops!)... The negative lead (often black) can go on the negative (-ve) of the battery connection, or anywhere where there is bare metal work on the vehicle (also sometimes called an earth on vehicles). The bare metal work must be un-insulated and be connected back to the negative side of the battery through the car bodywork (as long as it's not a fiberglass vehicle where a negative cable has to be run back to the battery). There are often earth points on the vehicle's bodywork for connecting any negative leads (usually black) for connection back to the battery, (the vehicles metal body acts as a cable to the battery). For info... Earth and negative can be very confusing terms on vehicles, as they are often the same thing. However, you would never connect a negative lead to earth on household electrics, as this would cause the circuit breaker to trip, or the fuse to blow. So, vehicle electrical naming conventions (and practices), can be different to general electrical naming conventions (in some cases). It doesn't make it easy... Hope this long winded reply is a useful explanation and helps... 😃

[@m.bouanane4455]

@@doitup thx for the detailed response. That's what I did, connected the negative to the battery.

[@doitup]

That's great, you can't go wrong doing that... 😃

[@kylegibson2569]

thanks this was just what i needed nice and clear and easy to follow great job!!!

[@doitup]

Glad it helped! 😃

[@MrZimmaframe]

Thank you for making the video, very well explained and filmed.

[@doitup]

Hi, thank you. I'm just an old fart with a pocket camera and a cheap tripod, so it's much appreciated... 😄

[@Pipmen]

This can only be a german guy! Very detailed :) thanks!

[@doitup]

Kein Problem ... Aber du machst mir jetzt ein wenig Sorgen ... Ich dachte, meine zwölf Zehen bedeuten, dass ich Cornish bin? 😃

[@mattheels166]

Best self help video iv ever seen top job thanks very much 👍

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for your comment, it's much appreciated... 😀👍

[@ioandriment3140]

Hi all. Many many thanks. Super lesson. Much appreciated.

[@doitup]

Hi, no problem. I'm glad it was of use... If you need more info, you can find it here: do-it-up.com/vehicles/engine-transmission/diesel-wont-start-when-cold-how-to-fix-glow-plugs/ I sometimes add this link to a reply, as once the video is uploaded, I can't update it without creating another video. So I add any updates and extra info to the web page... Thanks for letting me know that you found the info useful. It's always great to hear it helped someone out... 😃

[@z0m123]

Great easy to follow instructions thank you, at the end of the video is a puff of smoke injector area is that a bad injector seal?

[@doitup]

Yes, I think it is. I did wonder if anyone would spot that! 😀 The injectors have new copper washers fitted now, so no longer an issue. However, it was a pain getting the injectors out (because of the carbon build up around the injectors). So, two schools of thought... If it ain't broken leave it. Or, fix it as soon as you see it. In the end, the injectors had to come out for another job! All I can say is; always fit new copper washers when removing injectors. It saves a whole load of grief later on..! Thank you for your positive comments... 😄

[@z0m123]

@@doitup yeah I hear they are a pig of a job to do! And your right they are one time use copper crush washes I believe so best to use new ones. The reason I pointed out was it would of made another great video👍

[@TheEdudo]

@@z0m123 you can anneal them one more time if you dont have new ones

[@greasersgarage-zt8cs]

This was just what I was looking for, perfectly and simply explained, my narrowboat can take up to 5 minutes from cold to start up, and...it smokes just like the car in this video when turning over

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for your comment, it's great to know when it helps someone out... 😃

[@bomba4]

Incredible great video. Thanks bro. I measured my plugs and third of four are fail.. I don't have tork device. So I thigntened them normally.

[@doitup]

Hi, if you don't have a torque wrench, then it's not a huge issue as long as you use the torque value as a guide. It's basically there to stop you breaking the glow plugs, stripping the threads, or to ensure you can get them out again the next time (without breaking). Yorumun için teşekkürler. Birine yardım ettiğini bilmek her zaman harikadır... (Thanks for your comment. It's always great to know it helped someone out...) 😃

[@elharkatibrahim3764]

Excellent job, please what is the correct resistance that should be in the Glow plugs

[@doitup]

Hi, the typical resistance value should be approximately 1 to 6 ohms. However... - Newer vehicles may have a low resistance value. If you know the glow plug manufacturer, try and check the glow plug data sheet for your vehicle, to get the actual value. - It's always worth checking your test meter for its resistance value, before measuring anything. There's instructions on how to do it here: do-it-up.com/vehicles/engine-transmission/diesel-wont-start-when-cold-how-to-fix-glow-plugs/#Checking-the-Glow-Plug-Resistance, see 3.1. - There is a table of typical resistance values here: do-it-up.com/vehicles/engine-transmission/diesel-wont-start-when-cold-how-to-fix-glow-plugs/#Typical-Glow-Plug-Resistance-Values. This shows typical resistance values for new and defective glow plugs. Hope this helps... 😃👍

[@bobeever3925]

Great video of my exact van so very helpful to me. I've just resealed my hight pressure pump to cure a leak and bad starting but the pump kit did not cure my bad starting.but when running engine after pump refit I notice like your engine it had a bad injector seals so just done them but while doing injector seals thought would check glowers and I've got 2 good and 2 bad. Thanks for vid keep me coming

[@doitup]

Hi, yes... You spotted my bad injector seal. It took my 5 days to get the injectors out. In the end I had to walk away and come back the next day to try... and try again, (I was so frustrated with them not coming out). Lesson learnt, don't leave the injector seals until later! Glad the video helped you out. Makes the time and effort it took to make video all worthwhile... 😃

[@bobeever3925]

@@doitup no mate all worth while keep doing the vids. Thing is you can't turn the injectors cos of the clamps.thanks andy

[@JuanRojo-bv7jm]

Thanks for the video clear and simple.

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know, much appreciated... 😃

[@bevaughnhenry4983]

Where is the negative connected to during the voltage testing?

[@doitup]

Hi yes, I did omit to say where to put the earth/negative lead in the voltage testing section, (but did include it in the next section kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHfVp62pqaukrac, Oops..!). Basically, if the vehicle uses the bodywork as the -ve (negative) return path, you can use anywhere where there is uninsulated bare metalwork, an earth point, or the battery negative should be fine (-ve earth vehicles). You always need to make sure there is a good connection, even if it looks reasonable, as there could be a thin film of dirt or grease on there. If the vehicle has a fibreglass body, you have to find an earth return connection (wire) back to the battery, (or the battery), as the fibreglass body cannot be used as a return path... Hope this helps... 😃

[@bevaughnhenry4983]

@@doitup after all this time you actually replied....you're goated man

[@doitup]

No probs, it takes awhile to catch up sometimes... 👍

[@thespiritualwayofallthings]

You didnt show where you put the negative, is it to the neg terminal of the battery?

[@doitup]

Hi, unfortunately I missed this bit... The negative lead (black) can go on the negative (-ve) of the battery connection, or anywhere where there is bare metal work on the vehicle (often called earth). The bare metal work must be un-insulated and be connected back to the negative side of the battery through the car bodywork (as long as it's not a fiberglass vehicle where a negative cable has to be run back to the battery). There are often earth points on the vehicle's bodywork for connecting any negative leads (usually black) for connection back to the battery, (the vehicle body acts as a cable to the battery). For info... Earth and negative can be very confusing terms on vehicles, as they are often the same thing. However, you would never connect a negative lead to earth on household electrics, as this would cause the circuit breaker to trip, or the fuse to blow. So, vehicle electrical naming conventions (and practices), can be different to general electrical naming conventions (in some cases). It doesn't make it easy... Hope this long winded reply is a useful explanation and helps... 😃

[@thespiritualwayofallthings]

@doitup wow really appreciate that bud. 🙏

[@doitup]

No probs... 👍😀

[@RaulDahl]

Hello, excellent video!, thank you very much, I have a Peugeot Partner hdi 1.6 16v 2010, and I have voltage in the heaters of 6.5v instead of 12v, what could it be due to?

[@doitup]

Hi, not all glow plugs have a voltage of 12v. The first thing to do is look up the glow plug data sheet on the manufacturer's website to see what voltage they should be, (or in the vehicle manual?). It may be that 6.5v is correct. If not, then all you can do is trace the circuit back to see where the voltage drop is occurring. You can find some more information on glow plugs here: do-it-up.com/vehicles/engine-transmission/diesel-wont-start-when-cold-how-to-fix-glow-plugs/#With-a-Multimeter-Voltmeter. Thanks for your comments, I hope this helps... 😃

[@RaulDahl]

@@doitup Thank you very much, it really helped me a lot. I don't have access to the technical manual and for me, as an Argentine, the prices of PSA are very expensive. Thanks again. Hug

[@doitup]

No problem, I'm glad it helped you. It's great when you can have conversations across the world and help each other out, (I'm in the UK). Thanks for the hug... 👍😃

[@ghulammuradi6651]

Learned a lot from this video, cheers

[@doitup]

That's great. Thanks for letting me know... 😃

[@JanKowalskiiiii]

Świetny filmik, bardzo mi nim pomogłeś za co szczerze dziękuję.

[@doitup]

Cześć, nie ma problemu. Cieszę się, że ci to pomogło. Dzięki za informację, bardzo to doceniam... 😃👍

[@JanKowalskiiiii]

@@doitupSpoczko

[@doitup]

Cheers

[@b-rod5411]

Great video, and great editing, thanks!

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know. It takes a while to make these videos, so your comments are much appreciated... 😃

[@abidmohsen2724]

Hello everyone, I have 2015 VW golf TDI 2.0, currently has 187000 km , I have no issue at all but do I need to change the spark plugs ?

[@doitup]

Hi, looks like you have a diesel (TDI). Diesels get the fuel to combust using compression, so you won't have any spark plugs. If you mean glow plugs... They tend to be left in place until a fault occurs. Spark plugs - With petrol engines it can depend several factors... If it runs fine and passes any emissions tests, then probably no? Years ago, you would generally change them every second service (20,000 to 24,000 miles). However, modern spark plugs are made with better quality materials. You would need to check what you have fitted. The copper type of spark plug will have the shorter lifespan, then its Platinum. The best is Iridium, which could last up to 100,000 miles! Always best to check and clean them (and check the electrode gap) when a service is performed (on older and high mileage vehicles), as they can indicate the condition of the engine by their colour and condition. Hope this helps... 😃

[@yuriynalyvaiko4223]

awesome! better than other similar videos

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for your comment, it's much appreciated. It makes the time and effort all worthwhile... 😃

[@shadowfax49]

one of the best vedios. straight on the subject and very detailed.

[@doitup]

Hi, that's great, thank you for letting me know. I also have a similar video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5yupJWIfa2BiZo (that not many people have seen), for checking your glow plugs if you don't have a test meter... 😃

[@aleksandrk9703]

Fantastic presentation and explanation!

[@doitup]

Hi, I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks for your comments, it's much appreciated... 😃

[@Markicjusz]

Great video. I am going to check mine glow plugs. Car has 220 000 km and hardly starts in -3 C outside.

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks. It takes a while to make a video, so it's great when someone lets you know it helped them out. Hope you get it fixed soon... 😃

[@alexanderthomas412]

Good video 👍. One error: GP #1, U wrote 3 milli ohm instead of Mega. Add a note that new gen glow plugs would have a 4.4V or 7V supply. Short test leads to check the residual resistance which can be deducted from the GP measured resistance. One more point is that the current can be measured w/ a DC clamp meter @ battery terminal for all 4 (will include ECU & Acc) or on each glow plug wire.

[@doitup]

Hi, yep, it should have been an 'M' rather than an 'm'. Unfortunately, once the video is uploaded, you can't change it easily (I've updated the sub titles). I've added some notes on the other info into the description. Thanks for the great info... 😃

[@tahustvedt]

I recommend spraying penetrating oil around the glow plug base before removing and letting it sit for a few hours. They can snap there, especially on PSA HDi engines.

[@doitup]

Hi, great tip. The last thing you want is a broken glow plug! Thanks for sharing... 😃

[@dans2491]

I have WD40, would it be bad if soaking the glow plugs leads to some WD40 entering the engine after removing the glow plugs?

[@evankapantais5300]

Awesomely informative, good work!

[@doitup]

Great, thanks for letting me know. Makes all the effort to produce it worthwhile... 😃

[@RichieRich845]

👍. What is the puff of smoke from fuel injector 2?

[@doitup]

Hi, well spotted! The injector copper washer is not sealing properly... I ignored this at my peril. I needed to remove the injectors some months later. It took 5 days (of going away in despair, and coming back to try again) before I got them (it) out! Carbon deposits had formed around the injector fixing it in solidly in place. Moral of the story: 1 - If you take the injectors out, always clean and replace the copper washers. 2 - See a puff of smoke, replace the copper washers at the earliest opportunity. 3 - Walk away and hope you never have to take the injectors out! 4 - Wish you'd done something different! In my case the following order applied... 1, 3... then 4. You live and lean..! 😥

[@joshhb.5983]

Very informative. Thanks

[@doitup]

Glad it was helpful! 😃

[@bertcroft925]

Brilliant video, thanks for making it easy, Glow plugs for Dummies (that's me BTW)

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know. It's much appreciated... 😃

[@coimanvasile6309]

What means when voltage doesnt hold 22 sec when I checked for ,but just 2 sec. max.Its a glow plug relay problem?Thank You

[@doitup]

Hi, it sounds like it maybe a glow plug timer (relay) issue. However, how long the glow plugs are activated for will be dependent of the vehicles design (and its age). I.e. A more modern vehicle may have an intelligent system where the glow plugs are activated, dependent on a number of parameters (cylinder, air, fuel temperature, etc). Unfortunately, you can't say for certain unless you know the specific design parameters for that vehicle. If you can't find anything else wrong, all you can do is swap out the unit, or run a temporary supply to prove the system. Hope this helps in some way... 🙂

[@anifehalmi242]

best video i ever watch well done great job!

[@doitup]

Wow, thank you! I'm sure a better one will come along... 😀

[@rwibutsoasterie7946]

Thank you so much

[@doitup]

No problem, it's always good to hear it helped someone out. Thanks for letting me know... 😀

[@thinkfirst6431]

Slight correction. The glow plug does not preheat the chamber, it is too small to do that. The glow plug acts like an ignition source much like a temporary spark plug except instead of a spark like from a spark plug the tip of the glow plug heats up red to white hot which is enough to get the diesel to ignite. That is why the ends of bad glow plugs can look burnt or bubbly when you take them out. The heating element dies which is the major cause of a failed glow plug. Also why you have to heat the glow plugs up several times sometimes when it is real cold. The cold chamber cools off the glow plug too fast. Some manufactures design the glow plugs to heat at a lower voltage such as 9-10 volts instead of the supplied 12 volts plus. That makes them heat up faster buy supplying more voltage than they are rated at. The down side is that because they are being over driven voltage wise they burn out faster. Depending on the design the tips of glow plugs can swell or actually break off. Both are a problem when removing dead glow plugs. Plugs that are hard to remove once the plug has been un-threaded some should be lubricated and twisted out slowly with as little outward pressure as possible. If the tip breaks off generally the head has to come off to remove the broken parts, not a great outcome for a "simple" job. Otherwise the tip will bounce around damaging the piston, rings, and valves.

[@doitup]

Hi, thank you for taking the time to comment. This is such great information and is explained so well... Any information that helps others is always appreciated. Thank you... 😄

[@timothysmith7436]

Lose the music

[@deensedudevonand4115]

@@timothysmith7436 music was great , no other sounds was needed to hear

[@vitold150]

What time should it be for glow plugs warm up and what number of omhs would be correct?

[@doitup]

Hi, the warm up time can vary depending on the vehicle and its design... Generally, it should be around 10 to 20 seconds. Some fancy modern electronics, may vary the warm up time in some cases? Resistance - For a standard glow plug, the resistance should be 1 to 6 ohms. There is an illustration of resistance values here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHfVp62pqaukrac. However, the values may be more specific for some glow plugs and more modern vehicles. If you know the make and reference number of the glow plug, you can sometimes look up the specific details on the manufacturers website. It should also be noted that the voltage to the actual glow plugs may be different in more modern vehicles, (not 12 volts). So it may be worth looking this up on the manufacturers website if you can... Hope this helps... 😃

[@knollie0117]

Great video. Very helpful. I have one question, how mutch OHM does hè need to be useful. Thnxxx👍

[@doitup]

Hi, I understand that typically, a new glow plug will be 1 to 5 ohms (I've not measured many). For an explanation of glow plug resistance and heat, see do-it-up.com/vehicles/engine-transmission/diesel-wont-start-when-cold-how-to-fix-glow-plugs/#Glow-Plug-Resistance-Explained. Hope this helps... 😃

[@knollie0117]

@@doitupcan you use instead of beeping with a multimeter als use a 12V voltage finder with a light? It should work the same? Thanks al lot👍

[@doitup]

I've not tried it, but I don't see why not (as it should be the same as testing the continuity with a beeper/buzzer). I have another video that may help. It shows how to test glow plugs without using a test meter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5yupJWIfa2BiZo, as not everyone has a test meter to hand in their toolbox... 😀

[@knollie0117]

@@doitup thank you so mutch for help

[@doitup]

No problem, I hope it all works out and you get it fixed.

[@abderrahmanebourouiba1119]

well presented clear and simple yet very informative thanks, just a question does a bad glow plug, make the fuse to get blown... (in just 3 seconds after ignition ON)

[@doitup]

Hi, It does depend on the fault, but it wouldn't usually cause a fuse to blow (unless there was a dead short). Glow plugs usually just stop working (the resistance is too high, or, they're open circuit). For the fuse to blow, the circuit is drawing more current than it needs. Here's some things you can try... With power off: - If you have a test meter, measure the glow plug resistance and compare each of the results (there should be a low resistance so heat is generated, but not a dead short). - Check to see if the wiring has rubbed and worn away anywhere? - You will probably need a wiring diagram, but check for any short circuits (not always easy if there's electronics involved?). With power on: - Waggle all the cables and connectors to see if that has any effect? Lots of vehicle have dodgy connectors, broken wires, insulation worn away, etc. If all else fails, disconnect everything electrical to do with the glow plugs. Reconnect items one by one, switching the ignition on and off each time (not always essential, but good practice), to try and identify which area is causing the fuse to blow. You may blow a fuse, but you could narrow the fault down. Blowing a fuse to find a fault is not good practice. Warning: Things to be aware of... Fuses protect the circuit, but they don't always blow fast enough. You can still melt wires, overheat components, cause damage, etc. so this is a last resort. As usual, any repairs, fault finding at your own risk. Hope you get it fixed... 😃

[@abderrahmanebourouiba1119]

@@doitup thanks man I really appreciate that not only you answered in no time but with an extensive explanation too :) ... I already tested only one glow plug still installed and it was good 0.5 ohm cuz it was easly accessible... mine are between the dashboard side and the transverse engine under many components that most likely I have to remove to be able to just test the glow plug... i do have the electrical schemes and I already tested the rely and it's fine résistance 55ohm and it does close when supplied... the general continuity is also ok between fuse rely glow plug ... I still have to test voltage in relay terminal the one to the ECU it should be around 3.6volt ... one last thing I realized after blowing the 2nd fuse in 2 3 seconds after ignition on that I had a major rain water leak from the roof inside howses... it was oriented to the back passenger under seats so I found out a huge amount of water a little swimming pool lol so I'm thinking maybe there is some wires that are shorted... the caused this... thanks again buddy this is my first car and it's a 2009 kia cee'd that I bought only 2 months ago ^^

[@doitup]

It's great you're giving it a go to find the fault. Newer cars (2000 onwards) are so much better than the old ones, but when they go wrong... There's often a little knock out plug in the floor to allow for draining (for when the dip the car in paint during manufacture). If you do have a plug in the floor, just crack open one edge to allow the water to drain. Hope you get it fixed soon. 😃

[@abderrahmanebourouiba1119]

@@doitup hi again just wanted to tell you that i finaly my engin succesfully started today & i did found that what caused my 80A fuse to blow was indeed a shorted glow plug (but not a dead one a functional one lol) the rubber isolator between the (+) side and the ground (-) was mostly gone or melted away; the fun thing is that i had to replace it cuz i broke it by mistake (i over tightend while i intende to loosened it)... one of my conclusion is that testing the glow plug while in place is very unrelible (at least in my case) mainly because their low resistance was +/- 0.3 ohm and a defective wire or probe give 0.5 ohm and they are already groundedin engin head so they are always shorted according the multimeter (in the continuty test) ... while i did test the others in place one by one i had to make a small fuse of 20A adapter (a work around), no fuse was blown, (i wonder if i tested the shorted one in place what would happend , since there still some rubber isolator and it did glow when i tested by the battery) any way your answers were very helpful so thanks again and may allah rewards you, blesses you and guide you to the right path :)

[@doitup]

Hi, it's great you found the fault, and thanks for the update. It's always helpful for me, (and others) to see how you fixed it. I'm no expert, just been trying to fix things for a few years and trying to pass the info on. Thanks for asking allah to guide me on the right path... 😃

[@MrBinuarjun]

Simple and valuable ❤

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know, it's much appreciated... 😃

[@ryanh3285]

I've changed 5 of 6 glow plugs number 2 was hard to undo it's now loosened off but just keeps spinning it will lift up a few mm with pliers but won't come out I'm pretty sure its not snapped do you have any tips for this issue.The rest came out easily.

[@doitup]

Hi, Sounds like the thread has stripped on either the glow plug or cylinder head. Unfortunately, the glow plug has to come out, but the thread in the head may get damaged in the process, (if not already damaged). Luckily, there are plenty of kits on eBay for repairing the cylinder head if the thread is stripped. Here are some examples: www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=Glow+Plug+Thread+Repair&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=15&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=3&campid=5338823856&customid=UKThreadRepair&toolid=10001&mkevt=1. First off apply some lubricant and let it soak. Try and unscrew the glow plug carefully whilst applying upward pressure, using mole grips or similar. Feel carefully to see if there is any thread there. If it wont come out, you could see if the engine compression will blow it out. Though be careful, and use safety specs etc, in case it suddenly comes out, or any other debris comes flying out (don't lean over the engine looking at it!). If you do get it out, check the thread in the head by screwing in a new glow plug. It should screw in easily and tighten if the thread is undamaged. Don't overtighten though. If the thread is gone, you will have to use a thread insert, (see the tool kit mentioned above). I don't have any videos on this, so you will have to do a google search. Plus search for other extraction methods, as there is probably a lot more detail on the internet on how to get the glow plug out, (more than I can type here). As usual, at your own risk. Let me know how you get on? Hopefully this helps in some way, and you get it fixed soon... 😃

[@ryanh3285]

@@doitup Thanks so much very helpful

[@ansonjoji4175]

very good presentation.

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks. It took a lot of editing to make, so it's appreciated... 😃

[@vagabondking]

Ussualy glow plugs are working on 5-7 Volts. When you find 12 Volts on the connector of glow plugs, means you burn the glow plugs. Should change relay.

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for the extra info, it's always useful. The video was based on an older vehicle. Since then, more and more vehicles have switched to a 5 to 7 volt system... Unfortunately, to update a video, you have to start all over again from scratch, (there is a note about the voltages in the text below the video "Typical values (next gen) 4.4v to 7v. The resistance value may also be below 1 ohms. You may need to refer to the manufacturers specifications, to get the correct value…") As a footnote, I would check what glow plug voltage the vehicle should have, (a glow plug manufacturer's data sheet online should tell you) before swapping out components. Just so you don't end up down a rabbit hole... Thanks for the great info... 😀👍 P.s. The note in the text was near the bottom. I've moved it nearer to the top.

[@noonaspud]

Thanks. I have a 2003 transit van. 112k. My glow plug warning light flashes occasionally, but not all the time. Engine starts and there’s no white smoke. Any ideas?

[@doitup]

Hi, I have a glow plug indicator on the dashboard of a Vauxhall that also appears so briefly you can miss it. Whereas on other vehicles, the indicator stays on a lot longer? As a guess, it's probably down to the circuit design for that particular vehicle (if the vehicle starts and runs fine, with no white smoke). And it may vary from vehicle to vehicle... Always assume the glow plugs are needed, and wait for them to heat the cylinders, to aid the engine starting process. Glow plugs come on in hot and cold weather, to aid starting and help whilst the engine warms up. However, the length of time they're on may vary (if this is built into the vehicles electronics by design). If you need to check they're working, check the glow plug resistance and see how long voltage is applied for with a test meter. Or, operate them when removed from the vehicle (example video here... How to Test Glow Plugs Without a Test Meter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5yupJWIfa2BiZo) and measure how long they glow for. Best to test the glow plugs one at a time, save melting anything nearby! Hope this helps... 😃

[@maxxonetwo3]

Thank you. Greatly appreciated.

[@doitup]

Hi, I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks for letting me know... 😃

[@tiago10alves10]

Those tests can tell if the sensor pressure working?

[@doitup]

Hi, I've not tested any glow plugs with pressure sensors, so wouldn't be able to advise. It looks like they have electronics built into the head of the glow plug and a diaphragm with a piezo-resistive sensor to measure the pressure. Any movement of the diaphragm will change the resistance of the piezo-resistive sensor, which will be measured by the electronics and fed back to a control unit. This probably means the only way you can test the glow plug electronics, is by plugging the vehicle into a computer to measure the glow plug parameters. Searching the internet, it looks like you can check the resistance of the glow plug heating element using a test meter (steering clear of the glow plugs electronics)? There is also a suggestion these type of glow plugs work using higher voltages? Therefore, before you do anything, I would check the glow plug manufacturer's website for more information, as they sometimes provide data sheets. As usual, at your own risk. I hope this helps in some way... 🤔

[@zam2823]

Really good video 👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@doitup]

Hi, thank you. It's very much appreciated... 😃

[@beastman.330]

Machanics should make videos like this guy 👍👍👍

[@doitup]

Hi, thank you. Much appreciated. Makes the time and effort all worthwhile... 😃

[@rqlk]

Will this work with glow plugs used in small nitro engines like the ones in rc cars

[@doitup]

Hi, I've never tested glow plugs in small nitro engines? But i'm guessing the principle would be the same. Give it a go. I hope it works out for you... 😃

[@rqlk]

@@doitup I used a glow plug igniter from Amazon to test them and they work fine but used the multimeter to check all the other electrical components and determined that everything looks like it should work perfectly but nothing works at all 😂 those nitro engines are a bit of a pain wish me luck lol P.S. I posted another reply before this one but it disappeared on me so hopefully it doesn’t show two replies now

[@doitup]

Hi, I'm glad you managed to get it all checked out. Shame it didn't work afterwards? On the positive side (once you do get it going), you should be pretty good at fixing it should it go wrong again. I had to look up what a glow plug igniter was. Not seen one of those before. My only previous experience with small engines, was with a model aeroplane. You wound the propellor back on a spring and let go, to get it started. You had to get your finger out the way pretty quick! Thanks for your reply. Hope you get it fixed soon... 👍😄

[@rqlk]

@@doitup I also have an rc airplane but all you do is plug in a battery and flip and switch and it usually works, lol

[@nqobizizwesibanda8200]

Awesome 👏, i feel like I know it all thanks to you

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for your comments. I'm sure I must have missed a few things! There's some more detail here if you need it: do-it-up.com/vehicles/engine-transmission/diesel-wont-start-when-cold-how-to-fix-glow-plugs/. Hope you get it fixed soon... 😃

[@odanne29]

Awesome video👌👍👊

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know, it's much appreciated... 😄

[@new.videos]

does the car now have smoke on first start after the grow plugs have been installed??

[@doitup]

Hi, If glow plugs were the cause of bad starting, then starting should be much improved. However, you may get smoke on first start for a number of reasons. It could be due to: - Condensation if it's cold, (the smoke from the exhaust should look different). - Residual diesel left in the exhaust from unburnt fuel from the original issue (white smoke). This will eventually get blown out or burnt off from by the exhaust heat. - Many older diesel's can smoke on start up due to wear & tear. Often improving when the engine is warmed up. However, the reverse can also happen - When hot, heat expansion can cause leaks around, oil seals, piston rings, etc. - If the turbo is starting to fail, it can leak oil. This can cause black smoke. The main thing is... - Has the engine starting improved? - Does the smoke soon go away after the engine has warmed? If not, there may be another issue... Hope this helps... 😀

[@new.videos]

@@doitup thanks for your reply 🙂 When the car is cold, it emits smoke at the first start, I even tried to turn it off after 20-30 seconds and start it again, but it smokes again.. The colder it is outside, I have the impression that it emits more smoke. When it warms up, it doesn't smoke, i.e. it emits a little black smoke when the accelerator is pressed .. It's x218 CLS 350cdi (2014) it has 220k km. I'm going these days to see if the diagnostics will show anything... the car starts well, pulls hard .. the only problem is this smoke one example: kzbin.infoPiUrejjP-hI , but that day it wasn't very cold around 16-17,c°. I can't judge what color the smoke is, but something like white, grayish, bluish..

[@doitup]

Hi, at 220 km, things in the engine will be getting a little worn or loose. It's not unusual for well looked after diesel engines to reach 300 to 400 km before a major overhaul. So with 200 km on the clock, if may give off a little smoke when cold. However, if it's lots of smoke then it maybe a different matter? You could do a compression test to see if there are any issues? Hopefully you'll get to the bottom of any issue's soon, though sometimes you have to wait for it to get worse, before a fault can be identified... 🙂

[@new.videos]

@@doitupmy mistake, I meant 220,000 (220k) 🙂, in any case, thank you very much for the answer. all best 👍

[@doitup]

No problem... I just added to it by assuming you meant 220,000 km and continued the error! 😂

[@BillSikes.]

Thanks bro that was super helpful 👍

[@doitup]

That's great, thanks for letting me know... 😃

[@chiphood2966]

This is a bloody good video 👍

[@doitup]

Thanks, glad you liked it... 😃

[@MichaelMalega]

Oooo cold start sounds good!!!

[@doitup]

Yep, it didn't want to start... 😃

[@edwardadelin689]

awesome video!

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know it helped you out. much appreciated... 😃

[@michaeltoledano4654]

How about sir if glow lamp not working what is the possible cause?

[@doitup]

Hi, I've not studied the subject, so can only give my best guess... There could be a number of causes, but they can probably be summed up as failure due to old age and wear and tear! A glow plug is stressed throughout it's life. It can go from frozen to glowing red hot in a matter of seconds. Expansion and contraction, oil, rust, corrosive gases, pressure, combustion (explosions), etc, etc. Glow plugs have a hard life! The materials used and quality of manufacture probably have a lot to do with their lifespan, plus... Where you live (starting temperature), number of times the engine is started, how long the engine is run for... They're probably like human beings. Some have a long and happy life while others... There can also be other factors. My daughter decided to drive through a deep puddle where water was sucked into the engine: do-it-up.com/vehicles/engine-transmission/car-went-through-water-and-died-how-to-fix/. She naturally tried to start the car, but it wouldn't start (hydraulic water lock in the cylinders). When we cleared the cylinders and got the car started. All the glow plugs started to fail. I presume it was because the glow plugs had been trying to boil the water in the cylinders? So, there could be a number of causes, why glow plugs fail. Hope this helps in some way... 😃

[@yankolex]

Full informational video

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks. Glad you found it useful... 😃

[@yankolex]

@@doitup on all candles the resistance is 0.8. I go further

[@doitup]

Low resistance is good. It means the glow plug will heat up... Here's a quote from Google "The total energy dissipated by the circuit is proportional to current, so the resistance of the heating element has to be low enough to draw sufficient current to generate enough heat"... But, "The resistance of the heating element has to be high enough so that most of the energy is dissipated by the heating element". In other words, I think this means... You want a low resistance, so the energy is dissipated in the glow plug and it heats up. But… Not a really, really low resistance (like a dead short). Otherwise, the energy will be dissipated in the glow plug, and in the rest of the circuit. Blowing the fuse and potentially melting the wires (dependant on the fuse rating and how quickly the fuse reacts!). I'm no expert, but 0.8 ohms sounds good. Note that each manufacturer, or circuit design may have slightly differing resistance readings, due to their design parameters (and the actual condition of the circuit will also have an effect). Hope this description helps, and makes sense... 😄

[@vaalsidemotorsbusiness2105]

Your advice was very helpful.

[@doitup]

Glad it was helpful for you. Thanks for letting me know... 😃

[@heyramanandh8176]

Very useful information thank you so much for you

[@doitup]

No problem. I'm glad you found it useful. Thank you for letting me know... 😃

[@stevefen]

Excellent into, many thanks

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know. Glad it was helpful... 😃

[@TheJohnclive021]

Excellent tutorial thanks for posting

[@doitup]

No problem, thanks for letting me know... 😃

[@vinc9316]

Thanks very clear and precise

[@doitup]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for letting me know, it's great when it helps people out... 😀

[@LuckyGarage85]

Great video! Very useful, just suggest wd40 few days before and compressed air to clean before removing!

[@doitup]

Hi, yes... Great tip. WD-40 and blowing out any debris would certainly help. Don't forget your safety specs though. Thanks for your comment... 😃

[@rcdbraver]

Can i still used the car long drive with glow plug sensor problem?

[@doitup]

Hi, If the vehicle runs OK when the engine is warm, it shouldn't be an issue. Glow plugs only usually cause an issue when starting the engine from cold. However, it may depend on the vehicle and how the manufacturer's configured the vehicle to run, (if there is a fault detected). If there are no warning lights and it runs fine when the engine is warm, you can only assume it will probably be OK. Hope this helps... 😃

[@rcdbraver]

@@doitup thank you sir for the reply. Last week i have a check engine. When we scan the ecu it says cylinder 2 and 4 glow plug sensor. The engine is fine no hard starting. Oh by the way may car is Vw golf wagon 2.0 tdi here manila.

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for the update. The general rule is... If the warning light is amber/orange, then it's just warning you that a fault is present and it should be checked. If the warning light is red, then you shouldn't drive the vehicle. If the amber/orange light refers to any safety equipment like brakes, then get it checked ASAP, in case the fault deteriorates. Hope this helps and you manage to get it fixed soon... 😃

[@robertscott1986]

Think you need to do them injector seals too

[@doitup]

Yep, you're spot on. It took me about 5 days to get all the injectors out! Kept having to walk away and come back to them... It was a good lesson in changing the copper washers as soon as you can, or every time you take the injectors out... 😃

[@gerardjurgens2670]

I have only 9, 5 volts on the positive side of the glowplug and 12,5 volt on the battery when engine is not running! What could cause this drop in voltage!?

[@doitup]

Hi, it could be caused by a number of issues. Bad contacts, connectors, degraded circuits (the voltage passing through a circuit card, old wiring, etc). The best way to determine the cause, is to trace the circuit back and measure the voltage at different points... It can even be an issue with where you connect the test meter (the return path) to measure the voltage (a bad contact). Note: The glow plugs negative (-ve) connection is the screw thread of the glow plug where it screws into the engine. Therefore the engine, must also have a good return path to the battery. Hope this helps... 😃

[@fransstrous9809]

Some cars are fitted with 9,5 V glowplugs.

[@MrLajon69]

If i connect red to glow plug connector, whete the hell do I connect black one?

[@doitup]

Hi, the video does show you... But a bit later on: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHfVp62pqaukrac. Yep, I should have put that bit in the video a bit earlier... 😓. Hopefully you found out where to put the black negative (-ve) connection: - The battery negative terminal. - An earth (-ve) connection somewhere on the vehicle. - Or, on any bare metal work on the engine (as long as it's connected to earth and feeds back to the battery -ve terminal). I hope you were able to get it sorted... 😀👍

[@MrLajon69]

@doitup Thanks for the reply. Gonna try tonight

[@doitup]

Hi, no problem. There's some more info here if you need it: do-it-up.com/vehicles/engine-transmission/diesel-wont-start-when-cold-how-to-fix-glow-plugs/? All the best... 😀

[@PonderingOne]

Great video! Very methodical approach. You have a very nice multimeter, now go ahead and treat yourself to a new pair of disposable gloves 😂

[@doitup]

Hi, your comment gave me a good laugh! Good spot... I hate waste (which doesn't do my waist line any good either). I have a box of these and have to keep extras in my pocket, as they keep ripping! I end up trying to make these last as long as I can and then change them. Only two more boxes to go and then I'll get some better ones..! Thanks for your comment and for making me smile this morning... 😄

[@taydilarel27]

Excellent video!

[@doitup]

Thank you very much! I'm glad you liked it. It makes the time and effort all worthwhile... 😀

[@knulleriboy]

Does it matter if the measurement is made when engine is warm or cold?

[@doitup]

Hi, heat will change resistance values, but it's not something that should make a huge difference in the operation of a glow plug. However, if heat changes the actual component, it could make a difference. I.e. if heat caused the expansion of a component that was fractured, the circuit could open or close (dependant on the direction of expansion). and could cause a failure. Sometimes failures like this aren't easily seen, and are hidden from view? Let us know if you find anything, as it may help others. Hope this helps, and you get it fixed soon.... 😃

[@roberthughes2452]

Cracking video, thank you.

[@doitup]

Hi, no problem. Thank you for your comment. It's much appreciated... 😃

[@attilamajoros3231]

Great video! Thanks!

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know. It's much appreciated... 😃

[@جمالدحدوح-س4ن]

Very nice video teacher ❤❤❤ رائع

[@doitup]

No problem, thanks for letting me know... لا مشكلة ، شكرا لإخباري ... 😃

[@BGSGBF]

Very good video, well done! Now I know :)

[@doitup]

Thank you, I'm glad you found it useful... 😃

[@mihaistanca1866]

Excepent video !!! Well done😄

[@doitup]

Hi, thank you. Your comments much appreciated... 😃

[@Mynthpn]

Best one ❤❤❤❤

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know, it's much appreciated... 😀

[@nagabramhachary5291]

Great explanation... 👍🏾

[@doitup]

Thanks for letting me know, it's much appreciated... 😃

[@dineshrevanna8982]

Thank you sir.corrrect method.. thanks

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know... 😃

[@garymolina1394]

Saying the Ohm reading indicates a bad glow plug is not enough. W also need to know what the proper resistance will read if the glow plug is good. I've watched several similar videos, and all omit that information.

[@doitup]

Hi, please see the video at... 6:36, 9:49, 10:04, 11:16 & 11:27 where it shows new glow plugs being tested and provides resistance measurements for new glow plugs. There should be a low resistance so heat is generated, but not a dead short. Hope this helps... 😄

[@bonvoyage5377]

you werent paying attention, it was very clear, typically, when buying new glow plugs, the resistance values are printed on the box

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for the info... It's a great tip. 👍 Also look out for the torque values, they may be on the box as well. 😃

[@cjason7202]

One of my plugs isn't getting a reading , does that mean it's dead ?

[@doitup]

Hi, it probably does means it's dead! But, you can do a few checks just to make sure (if you want)... - If you're measuring resistance, sometimes it's worth checking your meter reads '0' ohms. There's a brief description on how to do check your test meter here: do-it-up.com/vehicles/engine-transmission/diesel-wont-start-when-cold-how-to-fix-glow-plugs/#Check-Your-Test-Meter. - You could also test the suspect glow plug by removing it from the vehicle and seeing if it works. There's a description on how to do this here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5yupJWIfa2BiZo. - Modern glow plugs are not always 12 volts. So if you don't have a 12v supply, it's always worth checking the manufacturer's glow plug data sheets to see what voltage it should be. Hope this helps, and you get it fixed soon... 😃

[@cjason7202]

@doitup thank you , I'll check it out

[@VISTATREKKER]

Excellent video thank you

[@doitup]

No, no, no... Thank you. I hope it was useful... 😃

[@bosko955]

Perfect teacher!!!! Even the dumbiest person can learn about it!!!!!

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know, it's very much appreciated... 😀👍

[@Tvlt_TheIntrovert]

Great content!!!

[@doitup]

Hi, thanks for letting me know. Much appreciated... 😃

[@tupeganesh444]

Super method of testing and very understandable. Thank you जय हिंद

[@doitup]

Hi, Thanks for letting me know. Hope you get it fixed soon... और दुनिया के सभी स्वतंत्रता प्रेमी देश 😃