How to test toyota corolla ignition coil with multimeter? Is Recycle part as good as new one?

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My car recently has a Check Engine Light (CEL) P0352 which indicates a bad ignition coil. I wonder a used one (recycle/junk yard/donor) which I bought has the same specification as the new DENSO OEM part. Based on my test, I was surprised the specification is almost same as new part. I also able to determine that the ignition coil that create the CEL P0352 is not within same specification as the used one and the brand new one. Thanks for watching.

[@enriquehernandez8652]

Hello, excellent video, I have a 2007 Toyota Corolla, it works perfectly, but when I turn on the air conditioning and apply D or R, the car starts to rattle, when accelerating it works perfectly, without turning on the AA it works perfectly. What do you suggest, thank you.

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

Hi, Enrique, thanks for the kind word. Since this issue is when you turn on the a/c, I believed it is a/c related. I would check the belt since it added more pressure/load when a/c is turn on. I think it may be related to the a/c compressor. If you don't have cool air from a/c, that may be it; however, I don't know why when accelerating it works and a/c is cold (compressor working. May be the noise still there due to high RPM. Do you have check engine light? When CEL turn on, check that code. May be you have a weak coil, a weak coil would make engine rattle when car is stop and turn on a/c made it run harder. I would check the belt, compressor, coil or even spark plug. Turn on A/C made all these parts run harder. Thanks for the comments and thank you for watching.

[@enriquehernandez8652]

@@diycheapdaddy2113 Good evening, could you please indicate what are the resistance parameters of the ignition coils of the Toyota Corolla 2007, thank you

[@enriquehernandez8652]

Thanks for responding, if the compressor works, the check engine light is not on, I would like to know the resistance ranges of the ignition coils of the 2007 Toyota Corolla, thank you

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

@@enriquehernandez8652 Hi, Enrique, I don't have the specification on 2007 Corolla and the video is based on 2009 Corolla 's coil which has a different engine (2ZR-FE). Normally, when the coil goes bad, it starts with 1 and then the other 3 is not that far behind. I think you can compare each one and see which one is really out of range or slightly bad. What I think is some parts is near fail condition but when you put more gas to it, the symptom still there except it is not that noticeable due to high RPM. I think eventually the CEL will turn on and you can identify that issue by the code. You may also check the engine mount, fuel injector, fuel pump/fuel filter because those are the part about time need to be replaced and can cause rattle but when engine is rev up,, it covered it. If your a/c is cold then the compressor is fine. You can also start monitor the coolant level (head gasket) and engine oil and see whether it is lower or gone for no reason. Basically when a/c is turn on,. it put extra load on lot of parts which is slightly off the limit but which one is what we try to find out. If you able to identify the issue, please update the comments here so that we can learn something new. Thanks again for your comments.

[@enriquehernandez8652]

@@diycheapdaddy2113 Hi, I already checked Gasoline pump and filter both Ok, I replaced the spark plugs, I did maintenance on the injectors, maintenance on the throttle body, I tested the coils following the instructions indicated in your video and according to measurement the results were the following: 200k 2000 1- 34.5 .355 2- 35.4 .367 3- 34.6 .355 4- 06.7 .995 Coil 4 is not original denso, it was a replacement that I placed 1 year ago when the original one was damaged, I am going to locate 1 original to replace and I hope it improves, otherwise I will have to measure compression in the cylinders, thank you very much for your attention, if you have Any other suggestions, grateful.

[@tuanas458]

Thanks for the vid. I had no clue to how test the coil with a multimeter even watching a bunch of other vids but this one hit the nail. I have the exact same readings on my bad coil. What do you think about using aftermarket coils? OEM is just too expensive mane. I was replacing a headlight ballast and didn't plug in the plug all the way and turned on the headlights which made a buzz. It fried the battery but not sure if it messed up the coils also lol.

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

Thanks for your comments. If you really have a bad coil, you should have a check engine light and the code should be P030x where x is the cylinder number. which can be 1, 2, 3 or 4 if you have 4 cylinder engine. In your case since the number is the same (or around the same no), the coil may be ok, you can swap the coil and see whether the check engine light 's code changes. Based on Amazon review on third party coil, it is good at the beginning but they did not last long (1-2 year, read the review comments). I have luck in ebay when seller actually listed the where the used OEM coil come from which year of vehicle and what kind of mileage when junk with VIN number. I did good on the used OEM part. It is more than half compare to OEM. You can pick a more recent year on your model but be very careful on new part on ebay because a lot of them are fake part. Also, if one coil is bad, the rest of the 3 is coming soon; therefore, you can get a set of 4 used OEM (save shipping) from good seller with good review. Some good seller even offer few months warranty. Look for seller offer 'seller will pay return postage' which means they stand behind their product or seller offer free return 30 day return with seller pay for postage. If you have few cars plus your family car, a code scanner is a bargain and it is not expensive when you find your issues from code scanner. by the way, you can cross reference your part number in rockauto and search / review for the latest corresponding part number. Thank you so much for watching.

[@ukaszb5004]

You should also measure the resistance between high voltage exit to spark plug (positive/red probe) and B+ power supply pin (negative/black probe) which is number 1 on the connector. This would be secondary winding resistance so the most important thing

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

Thanks so much for your information.

[@johnmcminn9455]

What setting on the multi meter for that one, Luke?

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

@@johnmcminn9455 Hi, John, I set it 200K ohm and touch 1 & 4 and 2000 ohm and touch 1 & 2. Thanks for your comment.

[@johnmcminn9455]

I have a reading of 28 on 2 coils and 23 on the other 2 Denso toyota 2003 will that make it run rough? Thanks in advance for the info

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

Hi, John, thanks for your comment. I would change the one with the bigger differences first which is the 23 first and see whether it improves or not. Also, I would not get no name third party coil since they usually don't last long enough and you may end up get stuck in freeway or national park :-). I would get some what known name brand or good used OEM instead. Did you clean the MAS sensor or the throttle body yet? those may also cause the issue. Also did you have the Check engine light turn on? Thank you for watching.

[@anthonyelhosri2229]

Honest person ,great video tx

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

Thanks for the kind words. Thank you for watching.

[@marioland2576]

i have toyota auris 1.6 vvti dual and i check it. 1 and 2 show 26 ohm but 3 and 4 show 34 ohm why?

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

You may have to find the original coil's ohm through internet or get a new one to measure in order to determine which one is more within the specification. Thanks for watching.

[@mr2man11]

Would it be in the 190s for other toyota models with denso coil packs? Thanz

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

I am sorry, I don't know but I think you can compare the number of the other 3 coils. Normally, one go bad at one time; therefore. you can kind of use the good coil's number as a baseline. The bad one is the one has the number which is way far off. If you ask me to guess, I would guess it is Cylinder 4's coil (the one near the brake master cylinder) because I have two Corolla and that is the one goes bad first, not sure why. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

[@johnmcminn9455]

so lower resistance is good, I see on your chart

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

Not exactly. Basically I used a good one compare to a bad one. As long as the number is not way far off, then that coil should be fine. Thanks for your comment and thank you for watching.

[@johnmcminn9455]

@@diycheapdaddy2113 ok thanks for the response. I actually did the switch test between cylinder 1 and 2 last month on my 2003 Corolla , P0302 misfire code . got the code P0301 when I switched them , replaced the coil and it runs well now . the thing is , the bad coil has a good reading on pin 1 and 4 , not sure about pin 1 and 2 . I had a oil leak from the gasket into the spark plug wells on the cylinder head, and over heated the coils . it's my understanding the 4 pin have more electronics in them than the 2 pin . I am wondering what the tolerances are on the coils, I guess I will google that. I am thinking over cooking the coils have compromised them, and like you are saying on several threads , a new or referbished matched set, will make a difference. thanks

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

@@johnmcminn9455 Hi, John, thanks so much for your information.

[@germangonzalez3736]

Hello, thank you for your video. I did what you have done. My car pulled all four p35x codes. So I measure as you have done it. My numbers are for pins 1 and 4: 22.5, 23.4 , 17.0 and 24.6. I thought i have all bad ones. Because I was expecting as your numbers in the 190s. I bought a new one and the readings came as 16.6. Why i am getting these readings? Thanks

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

Thanks for your comment. My video is for 2009 Corolla's coil and I am not sure you have the same made, model and year. Normally, the car will have rough idle first and if you continue to drive, it will throw a P035x code on one of the coil because it is out of the specification. It is seldom that all coils are bad at the same time but of course, things can happen. I would check the connectors or fuse or connection to the ECM to make sure they have contact. I would also check for the grounds and continuity of the wires to the coils. Last time when I have a P0352, I swapped the bad one to other cylinder (ie. #4), then I got a P0354 and it confirm #2 has a bad coil but in your case, it is hard to test this way since you have all 4 marked bad. Thank you for watching.

[@germangonzalez3736]

My is a corolla 2004. I put all coils back in the car, not using the new one. It seems something else triggered that series of codes. Now, my car has restored power. Iam wating to see if my light comes back again. Do you think a vacuum leak could have caused these codes? Nevertheless, thank you for your reply.

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

@@germangonzalez3736 Excellent news that everything back to normal for now and no more CEL; however, I believed you may have a ground issue somewhere. Please follows the ignition coils wires and make sure the ground are ok. You can unscrew those ground bolts/nuts (some connected to top cover) and clean it and put it back. In additional to that, there is a "big" ground near or under the battery. Normally for old car, that bolts / nuts (since near battery and got corrosion and acid) to ground may be rusted or have bad contact. You may want to check that out. You can follow and trace the cable connected to the negative cable, it should mounted with a bolt connected to the car metal plate. If your car has hit a big pot hole before this, I would double check the connection to the ECM. I also wonder any recent works or replacement on the spark plugs too. I would also monitor any rough idle or misfire and MPG (gas mileage changes). The MPG is a good indicator that something is not right even you don't have CEL. Your 2004 Corolla should have around 28 mpg mix driving. Good Luck. Thanks for watching my video.😁

[@bsecat7252]

So if I have a coil in the range of 34 - 35 then it is bad and should read similar to the numbers you posted -in the 190'?

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

Thanks for your comments. That's is correct; however, if your have your check engine light turn on and if you have a scanner, the code should be P0351 (1st Cylinder)....to P0354 (4th Cylinder) provided you have 4 cylinder engine. The last digit tells you that coil is bad. But if you don't have scanner, any coil which is way off among the other 3 coils, would very likely to be the bad one. Thank you for watching.

[@TheBaze90]

Hello, thank you for the very good video. I have a yaris 1.0 VVT-i (KSP90_) (1KR-FE) with 3 cylinders and 4 wired ignition coils (part.no: Denso 90919-02239) I noticed sometimes a rough idle and while driving downhill in 2nd or 3rd gear around 2000-3000 rpms the car is stalling and sometimes decreases the rpms. Can you please give your opinion if the ignition coils are in the normal resistance range? Below are my measures: 200k 1-4 (33.8, 34.2, 36.0) 2000 1-2 (352, 352, 351) Thanks !

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

Hi, sorry, I am not familiar with Yaris; however, the coils normally don't go bad the same time. You can compare the other 2 coils and if the "bad" one is really out of range compare to the other two, it may be that one, but yours is so close, I may pick 36 and 351 but in order to be running rough, I think the range has to be much wider. I am not sure it is coil, it may be connection or ground or even fuel injectors, mas sensors. 1) if your check engine light is on, then you can scan for error code, the error code should tell you which cylinder coil is bad. A lot of auto part store has free scanner/code reader borrow program. 2) I found out if one goes bad, the other one can go bad anytime too since most likely there were installed or manufactured the same; therefore, you may want to change all 3 if the car has some mileage on the old coils already. I believed coils has certain life on it and it is part of the maintenance. 3) If you need new coil, I would get the OEM because based on the review in Amazon, some third party coil failed within a short period of time. You do not want the car to fail while in no where land. Thank you for your comments and thank you for watching.

[@minkang2910]

Man thanks

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

You are very welcome. Thanks for watching.

[@danmaverickmanalustresmani7494]

What ohms to select in multimeter meter when testing?

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

Sorry for the late reply. When testing terminal 1&4 use 200K ohm. When testing terminal 1&2 use 2000. The numbers should be very similar. The bad one has the number way off the normal range. Amazon is about $50 each. I bought 1 new in Amazon so that I can fix the problem and then watching for good deal in ebay. I able to locate 3 used OEM's Denso from ebay for about $15-$20.00 each (good seller - 100% feedback and can be return with 30 days). I changed all of them to have peace of mind because the car has over 180,000 miles on it with original coil. After that, the car back to running great (No more rough idle). Used OEM made by Denso is still better than any New third party brand made in China. Thanks for watching.

[@laurasalo6160]

Great. The only video I can find like this and I cannot understand what you're doing... Are these 3-prong or 4-prong? Which prongs are you measuring, and when? Problems: • I can't see the prongs in the coil so I don't know which you are measuring. • I can't understand your hand gestures. • I can't read your symbols or writing (on my phone screen it is all too small/blurry). • I can't read your multimeter dial positions (my multimeter is different, and analog). • I don't know which combinations are unnecessary (I found no readings measuring combinations: A->C, B->C on my 8, 4-prong coils, hence I have recorded values of "zero", see below.) • I don't know within what range is normal...? I only know the exact values of YOUR coils, but that info is no good to me unless my coils have the exact same readings as one of your 3 coils... Could you make a chart using A, B, C, D as viewed left to right, head on, coil upright: ABCD ( - - - - ) [Red/black leads interchangeable] A->B = A->C = 0 A->D = B->C = 0 B->D = C->D = I wish you would have just talked everyone thru it, or added a chart to the description. Too bad cuz I really needed this video ☹ BTW I have NO IDEA what the numbers mean. I know its measuring resistance and im going to guess that more resistance is bad...? I don't know. Anyways, all I could think to do is take every measurement of all my old coils and my new (used) coils and compare them to see which are different. The only ones that vary are A->D and they vary from 7.25 to 6.75 (×1000), and B->D which varies from 7.75 to 7.0 (×1000). I also don't know if I'm using the correct ohm scale (×1000) cuz for A->B I get 19.0 on all of them but its analog so its not very exact and if it matters that it is measuring 19.0 or 19.5 or 19.9, then I may need to get a digital meter cuz mine only has options "×10" and "×1K"...

[@diycheapdaddy2113]

It really depends on the car model ignition. If your ignition coil is bad, most likely your car has Check Engine Light turn on. If that is the case, then use a car scanner to detect which ignition coil is bad. Normally, it starts with the code start with P035x. while x can be 1 , 2 , 3 , 4....corresponding to your car's cylinders. With the code scanner/reader, it immediately identify the problems without guessing. (i.e. is it Gas Cap, Spark plugs, ignition coil...etc) especially you and your family has multiple cars, it paid back in no time. In additional to that, you can also use scanner to check your smog/emission status. This is the scanner I used and a lot of time they are on sale during Black Friday. Autel Autolink AL519: amzn.to/381tGqf​ Thanks for watching and your comments.