How To TIG Weld ANY Gap

Sharing my go to method for TIG welding up a gap. This is one of many ways to do it but I often end up with a weld that looks just as good as a perfect joint.
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[@JustVoss]

I made a newer, shorter version of this video using the same technique. It also shows the process more clearly. You can watch it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIiqqXR8npt4i68

[@ukandeugoldpanningadvicean9921]

One of the best tig vids Ive seen very clear and articulate bloke. well done

[@musicman_hd607]

that de-rusting was the most satisfying thing ive seen in a long time

[@554drago]

I’m guessing you’re new to the welding world?

[@TreYay83]

The initial tacks are good. But your right as far as weaving afterwards. It's super ez. Just point your tungsten at the toe add a drop of filler and feather it to the next toe. Rinse and repeat all the way down the gap. I love tig, and I can get lost in that arc, brushing away! 😁

[@justinfryer1347]

the last thing you want on a root pass on anything is a weave technique.. youtube can not teach you how to properly weld.. it can infact have you chasing your tail trying

[@TreYay83]

@@justinfryer1347 I've bent tons of tests that were purposely gapped. it's inevitable, you will run into it

[@Beamer866]

TreYay83 the toe is the distance across your weld aka how wide you weld is.. so what your saying is to point your tungsten down and weave? You certainly can’t mean point it back your weld would go black. Forward would point your tungsten into the gap. I’d like to see that weaved in one pass🤦‍♂️ So much heat, so much warp, so much burnt stainless, so much wrong. It wouldn’t happen nicely. From a red seal welder. I would tack the corners. Lay one fill pass on the corner of the square stock. Starting at the wider end. Let cool. Then with a slight weave hugging the fill pass and whipping to edge of other tube. Using a back fill technique with my filler rod. That would be my preferred method. On the 4th side I couldn’t back fill I would lay a 2nd fill pass on top of first, and then weave the last pass keeping my fill rod in the gap but closer to the edge of perpendicular tube. The “ teeth method “ works but would be very prone to contaminates, and inclusions. ( in pipe welding bridge tacks are always cut out due to them being filled with porosity and being hard to burn threw, we usually use plugs when possible ) Also your heat effected zone becomes much larger with all of the bridge tacks. Even multiple stringers with a high rate of travel would come out nice 👍 Remember a colourless stainless weld is the best! All this rainbow shit you see in weld porn is actually not ideal.

[@TreYay83]

@@Beamer866 i meant point your tungsten at the corner of the initial bridge and the work piece. Get a dab of filler in there then drag the arc across the bridge and point the tungsten towards the other corner of the weld and the work piece, another dab of that sweet molten filler and then drag it back across. Come on man

[@mikeboileau8342]

Can we talk a little bit about the driving simulator in the room lol, great video!

[@JustVoss]

Haha, built that for iRacing a few years ago

[@todaywefly4370]

Thanks mate! Good effort.

[@welders485]

25 years of experience tigging stainless, here is the best advices your going to ever hear about tigging a gap. Take your bad parts and toss them into the scrap bin and start over. Don't believe me try welding up a gap and see what happens. You will destroy your whole project when everything moves on you. Stainless pulles like crazy.

[@27walker27]

I’m just starting out tigging stainless, I purposely came on KZbin today to try learn about tacking thin stainless, I’m struggling to tack without vaporising it, if I can manage to get the 4 tacks I’m away, but untill then I’m just blowing holes instantly. I’m finding the gap has to be absolutely perfect!, and even when I feel iv got the gap right I tack one side and instantly it’s pulled on the other 🙈

[@shaund4155]

If the gap isn't as severe as that but still wider than your filler rod, try flattening the wire out in a vice or with a hammer to make it slightly wider, I've used that before and it works a treat. You could also maybe try doubling up on the rods so you have double the rod width to help bridge the gap. Just a couple more ideas 👍🏻

[@flatbedtrucker]

You would make a good welding teacher I’ve been welding around 13 years and I would recommend you to anyone your laid back and very knowledgeable nice channel by the way 🤙

[@JustVoss]

Thank you for that! I’m wanting to starting building more cool projects and hopefully people can pick stuff up along they way and I can also learn from them.

[@ashton6478]

Idk why I’m watching this I’m a very experienced tig welder but I’ll give you a like since I’m here. Pro tip; practice walking the cup or weaving your gaps, it makes filling gaps much faster

[@JustVoss]

Appreciate the like!

[@alexhise968]

The technique he used minimizes distortion. I do the tacks at the corners like he did but then I just do stringers to fill the gap without letting the stuff get fully joined till it all cools down.

[@roberthubbard9590]

I would use 2 or 3 filler rods and just weave the entire gap to save time. Not sure if that is the proper way but whatever works. I would imagine the tack method keeps the heat affected zone down though so maybe that is the correct way.

[@correyy]

I agree. This was painfully slow

[@Shifty51991]

you should warm him how much a pain in the ass walking the cup can be (fucking overhead) lol but if he can tig weld this good im sure he knows all about it :P first thing one of my instructors told me at the trade school i went to is he has seen grown mean cry from trying to learn tig haha he was about 65 years old himself and would admit he wasn't the greatest tig welder around.....stick on the other hand

[@tptrsn]

Really enjoyed this video, and especially the one arc shot that you had exposed low enough to see your technique was really interesting. I saw that your process was: Add filler, back up a smidge, and then move forward to the next dab location. Very interesting!!

[@peteclark9763]

I would "pad" the heavier side (the corner will take heat better) and build up in one or two passes with filler rod and let cool in between. when gap is the same size and closed up, then weave or whatever your preferred method is, Bridging is ok if necessary but puts a lot of stress on the weld as it cools and makes for more distortion. ALSO bad tacks and porosity may be a chimney effect of non inert gas blowing thru the tube from underneath.

[@Imwright720]

That’s some seriously clean metal. I spent about 3 hours yesterday cleaning up a trailer to weld and it still looked worse than what you started with.

[@maggitmaster]

Lay wire and walk the cup or pad it then fill. I like the tooth tack technique, could be very useful where positioning is crucial.

[@hrlydave831]

The way i do that is to run a little bead on the tube. Now the gap is small enough to bridge . Thats how i do it.. It works well for me.

[@Thewaldo12345]

hrlydave83 yup I just run a bead on each side of the gap depending on how big it is then just fill in after.

[@lalogzztx]

I call this buttering it up lol 😂

[@GrindhousePerformance]

Really appreciate the care and attention that went into you producing this video. Very well put together! Thanks for sharing.

[@talmania1]

Good method. I use another one: i weld all along the long tube once, from side to side of the short tube, and repeat the line again, towards the short tube, until the gap is completely closed. It's faster, it's cleaner, and it looks better cause no tacs.

[@JustVoss]

Appreciate all the comments, sadly I converted my KZbin channel today and KZbin deleted all of my replies! Painful part of the channel transfer process but should be good to go from now on.

[@kellyaraujo273]

Perfect.

[@ConstContact]

Watched the video.... and was ready to comment on the sizzle and spadder... I was ready to say hey no gas or wrong gas and as soon as you said different manufacturer parts! Got me thinking!!! I went through 3 different bottles of argon.... same not so nice!!!! Did everything changed from water cooled torch to air cooled and same thing... won't get into names but changed my cup which I loved and went back to ceramic cup and all gooooood! So yeah you are correct !!! Different collet, lense, cup will cause a nightmare!!! Thanks for the vid!!!! Nice to know I'm not the only one or crazy!!!! I mentioned to over 20 welders and I must be doing something wrong..... well I was !!! Just assumed I could take a lense and a collet and a cup from elsewhere and assemble it on one torch !!!!

[@raging_naclholic4636]

The "proper" way to do this (from my four years at welding school dont quote me in not a professional), or at least the way I would bridge gaps like this is to use filler rod that has the same width of the gap you are trying to weld and work in the filler metal with tiny half circles as you move along to spread it out nice, worked like a charm and came with some nice uniform welds! but i like the creativity in this video although i feel if i tried it i get way to many keyholes lol, but great vid!

[@solenceisi]

Just wondering if you watch This Old Tony? Some of your content is pretty similar. And that thumbnail is too

[@danieltubbs458]

Where is your shop? You mentioned air gas and I'm only familiar with the one off the 71. Are you in CA? If so are you hiring? I am in the welding program at Mt.SAC and working for an apprenticeship. Thank you and have a great day. Feel free to contact me [phone]

[@kenhollywood4990]

I’ve have been a welder for a long time and that is how I was taught back in the 80s,good job 👍

[@cooper67]

nice video, but i recommend some earplugs when grinding!

[@kib2675]

When I was young I used to be a shipbuilder/welder. When we were stick welding heavy steel and there were sometimes gaps up to 30-40 mm. On a sunny day the sun might give you a hand as the temperature of the steel was rising, but normally we could not wait for that. So we would use a copper plate on the back as a form work and build up the weld.

[@fastone371]

A chill block!!!

[@streetfighterguy1909]

I would break the flux off of arc rod and use it as a filler wire feeding it into the arc puddle. It worked to fill some of the larger gaps very quickly.

[@kib2675]

@@streetfighterguy1909 I am sorry to say that some guys did that, but only once. They were sendt home. They were warned about that at their welding courses. Those welds had complete lack of fusion, penetration and looked like a swiss cheese on x-rays.

[@streetfighterguy1909]

@@kib2675 let me give it another run since it has been about 18 years since that old guy showed me that trick but I never remembered it having a lot of porosity. I'll toss something up today and review it again.

[@ceesteven]

Nice work showing real situations. Perfect fit ups aren’t always possible or even practical. Good tips and nice cleanup on the work before welding. You’re quite a good fabricator. Thank you.

[@andrewgable7273]

That was a pretty niffty idea. With luck, I should be learning TIG here soon. I'm excited about it. Liking this channel, getting to pick up some good tips and just over all basics. Thanks!!!!

[@TheDarmach]

The collets should in general be exchangeable between brands. You had some bad luck I think.

[@JustVoss]

Yeah I think I did too

[@ronniesmith8504]

Absolutely! Collet would have had nothing to do with it! Good catch. 43 years experience sez gas coverage problem. A collet is a collet . All it does is hold the tungsten. Lol

[@ronniesmith8504]

Try to keep filler material under the shield gas. Quit stabbing it in and out of the coverage.

[@JustVoss]

Ronnie, the gas lens seats against the collet. If it was machined wrong in a bad batch it could cause a number of problems. I’v also seen gas lenses that didn’t have a step machined in it that all others had. Right above the threads. Also caused problems.

[@ronniesmith8504]

@@JustVoss tungsten would fall out if collet was bad. Gas lens threads in and bottoms out. No way a bad collet causes a coverage issue. No disrespect.

[@kurtknapp4864]

Radnor is just the private brand name for Airgas, IMPORTED. I have been selling welding equipment and supplies for many years and have come to rely on CK Worldwide. CH has a wedge collet that to me is the best.

[@JustVoss]

I talked to them at fabtech this year. May start using their stuff.

[@kurtknapp4864]

@@JustVoss You will not be disappointed. All their torches are 100% Duty Cycle AC or DC, unlike Weldcraft and others with a reduced duty cycle on AC. Download their catalog and check it out, all the do is TIG so they have specialized torches for all applications.

[@valveman12]

Good tip and I have been doing this for years. The multiple tacks are a great idea on thin metal as it reduces the length of time the heats stays in one place and therefore prevents blowouts and reduces warpage.

[@mathewmolk2089]

Tacks are deadly on code welds. ,,, Sorry gang. This is junk welding at it's best.

[@nonconformist4802]

@@mathewmolk2089 Sorry, but not all of us work for NASA

[@shadorourke8955]

I run a bigger filler rod and keep the rod in the puddle. Maybe not the best way but it works for me.

[@monte9401]

I use a larger filler rod pushing it in until filling it, sometimes working torch side to side and back to the center and watch the puddle drop slightly then move forward. The larger rod helps to control the heat

[@djyul]

I have been welding for 40 years now.Collet is not the problem.They are all a peice of copper with a split in them. I would put the sparking down to the corrosion inside the box being pulled out when tacking up.I can see you cleaned the inside but the corners are harder to clean. Dont waste your time putting lots of tacks in,just start and push your filler wire in and swing between sides. How do you think we weld pipes with a root gap in??? Also,always start on the box/pipe where the gap is tightest,that wil crimp down,then do the gap,starting from where the gap is tightest to the biggest.This enables the gap to crimp/shrink uniformly and keeps the pipe/box straight. And use bigger filler wire,looked liked you were using 1.6mm,go to 2mm-2.4mm,i am in europe,dont know what the inch size is. I am an x-ray qualified pipe welder. Hope that helps.

[@Donce333]

Man, that rust cleaning is so satisfying

[@rebel1187]

You're not a pipe welder are you? Honestly what you have there is a standard if not slightly small gap. Walking the cup would be much easier and faster for that.

[@mightiflier5813]

That is the one of the beauties of a TIG welder. I'm not sure if the weld is as strong as a close fit, but looks like it should work. Also, lacquer thinner leaves a residue, acetone leaves virtually none.

[@lyleg6553]

CK Worldwide wedge collets. check'em out. I run weldcraft gas lenses with the CK wedge collets no problem. Radnor is kind of low budget...

[@chrisbraid2907]

Sadly the light of the arc fails to show the surface of the weld whilst welding, either better filtering with a strong light illuminating the work when not welding or processing the video sections with the welds in progress would be more instructive. I know when I learned to TIG weld over 45 years ago, watching the pool form and fill were key to me learning how to get a great weld.

[@iaminyashed4968]

If you’re fit out game is that bad maybe Welding isn’t your biggest problem Maybe you should make a cutting video first on cutting material square if you’re not too busy washing your hair

[@JustVoss]

Funny

[@iaminyashed4968]

And true 😂

[@billshafley6048]

Welding gaps is not difficult at all! Take your time and keep bridging...

[@MrRatkilr]

Welding gaps not hard. But with big gaps and more welding you get more warpage to deal with. fine line. The bigger the gap to fill the more warpage to deal with.

[@michaelwatson4822]

hi could yo just run a bead on the corner of larger piece to help bridge the gap and then weld the two pieces together

[@TrojanHorse1959]

How do I bridge a gap? I just rub on one side, after a little while the other side gets jealous and comes over to the side I'm rubbing...

[@fewridge6479]

I had to quit watching. I’m a AWS CWI and have been welding pipe and boiler tubes since 1993 and I’ve never seen or heard of such. Turn your heat up get a bigger piece of wire and weave it. Avoid all the start and stops you can. I’m not making fun of you just trying to help.

[@drsexy2491]

Tacks are a big no-no on boiler tubes aren't they. He probably isn't going to be working on anything that's xrayed so you can kinda just do whatever as long as it doesn't break

[@drsexy2491]

It says how to weld ANY gap. There are gaps in superheater tubes, walls, headers or anything really. You sound very intelligent by the way.

[@fewridge6479]

There should be a gap on every fit. With a very tight to zero gap you are guess on the penetration. Every welder has tried to make a X-ray weld the wrong gap and and blowed the wall out. The reason we have always tried is to not have bur bit shavings all over you. Kinda like porter wagner. The vast majority of fits on boiler tubes is made by a pair of welders. If you put your tacks in on a bad fit than weld belongs to the welder no matter what. Unless there is porosity on either side of the heat affected zone which is very very rare. A lot of welding partners will only put two tacks on a fit to have the fewest start and stops. I hope this kinda clears things up. The only reason I ever committed on this is to maybe help a young guy from busting a test because he put 231 tacks on it.

[@chuckles9094]

@@drsexy2491 ??? If the pice was cut right dont you gap it to size of the filler rod???

[@jasomkovac9115]

@Swampy,bitchy ass welders make a living welding, if you do let me know what you've done so I can stay away from it.

[@johnstuckey8229]

Off topic: welding across the faces of square tubing warps the pieces in a major way. Avoid warping by staying on corners and ends.

[@MrRatkilr]

Thats why it is better to just weld the sides. when you go across the piece... more likely for warpage and or stress or cracks.

[@ryanjones9305]

I actually like that technique. I would generally pulse like a maniac with the foot pedal and pump a ridiculous amount of heat into the joint. I'm going to give that a shot next time. I've also ran strings on one or both edges to build it up to a point where I can just weld it out like an open root joint.

[@ricafe]

I am not saying you can square the tubes nicely to avoid those huge gaps and bla bla bla, I underdstand the purpose of this video. Maybe one thing could be done as "another method", filling the gap with a piece of the filler rod laying on the gap, tack it on each extremity and run the bead over. That's how I would try. Thanks for sharing !!!

[@diannekiefer2839]

That's what we do!

[@davidevans9543]

Also known as "slugging" Slugging is not a recommended method especially on structural joints that are required to handle heavy loads.

[@ricafe]

@@davidevans9543 Agreed my friend !

[@jeffreyking6016]

Cope the tube...and it'll sit right flush up against the other

[@zippy3711]

I could not see anything. You need to shoot video through a filter.

[@Vinwelder]

He does eventually in the video...

[@melgross]

I’d just like to remind people that you can’t use the same brushes and wire wheels with aluminum, steel and stainless. Aluminum and stainless require stainless, and regular steel can use anything. But you can’t use aluminum stainless brushes and wheels with stainless, and visa versa.

[@hateoradethe3rd747]

You can you will just have contaminated welds lol. Label your brushes people.

[@lukewarmwater6412]

good point!!.... fought with that when I as first learning how to weld cast, or what I like to call 'floorsweepium' because they swept the floor and put every bit of garbage they had into it... I hate cast.

[@hateoradethe3rd747]

@@lukewarmwater6412 cast is a nightmare.

[@melgross]

You really have to heat cast. I’ve got a laboratory oven I bought on eBay some time ago. It goes to 550. I heat the cast to about 350, more if the shop is cold. This isn’t just required so that it doesn’t crack later, but it gets rid of a lot of crap you can’t get to with the wheel. Then, it’s not too bad. Just use the right stuff to weld it with. Unfortunately it’s so expensive.

[@ricardomontes373]

Awesome! Thank you Justin, the little teeth technique does work when filling gaps.

[@JustVoss]

You bet!

[@matt112485]

Ok guys it’s been 8 minutes 40 seconds, we’ve got the torch set up and 4 spot welds, let me show you how to fill this gap!

[@JustVoss]

🤷🏼‍♂️ I ramble sometimes

[@scottwillis5434]

Thanks for the video! Also a great motivational video for doing a better job of fitting up before welding.

[@munkul333]

are the tacks cracking because you have no slope-down on the current? It just looks like the arc extinguishes. Other than that, I like your approach.

[@evanarnold3663]

Yeah, when it comes to TIG, and you’re at the end of your weld, or just need to stop in the middle for any reason, it’s always best to slowly let off the pedal at a steady speed. But that’s when you’re using a pedal for your amperage. When you’re using a scratch start or lift start, it’s called “tailing off” in which you stop feeding wire and you start moving back and forth at a much faster rate so the puddle doesn’t have as much time to heat any one spot up too much, and then you eventually break the arc, and if done correctly, you won’t end up with a “fish eye” or dimple where you broke the arc. I personally hate doing any TIG without a pedal. Scratch start and lift start requires you start off by essentially contaminating your tungsten (even that little bit, yes) before you even have the chance to fuck it up yourself by dipping it, lol. Also his method of filling a gap is okay for welding things that aren’t crucial or particularly load bearing. But for anything that shoots X-ray or even ultrasound testing, this method is a big no no. But he was just mimicking a gap on a square tube weld, generally something like a handrail, or building a table, something simple. So it’s nbd in this situation

[@munkul333]

@@evanarnold3663 Anything critical has a much better fitup than this anyways... that's just kinda par for the course. I would never do it this way anyway, I'd rather pack the joint with something else and allow normal tackup and proper seam welds. But it's always interesting to see what other people get away with. More modern lift-arc sets actually have a voltage sensing setup so you close the arc right up

[@evanarnold3663]

Matthew Ramsay I’ve fiddled around with the torch buttons and the slope settings on our Miller Dynasty (i keep her in my area so the other two welders don’t fuck it up, lol. I’m the only one that seems to take care of my shit, company equipment included) whenever we aren’t buried with parts to weld. I’ve just never been keen or scratch or lift, but that’s me. I feel like I’ve got shit tons more control with a foot pedal, and I don’t have to either A. Reach for the button to stop and end up twitching (even if it’s minuscule) or B. Have to keep my finger resting on top of the button the entire time, limiting my repositioning options mid weld. Absolutely, in this instance, it’s just some simple joint for non crucial parts, so all that ever would really matter is the aesthetics in the end. That being said, it’s different where I work, because we are a job shop, but we mainly do structural stuff, so when we get some TIG in the shop, it usually means it’s real fuckin crucial and I can’t be fuckin around layin down shark teeth n shit 😂 just my take though, but you were absolutely right. Simple shit, anything goes, just filler up bud haha

[@alecgray3075]

Personally I would use an 1/8 filler and do a slow weave at about 80 amps because the tubing is so thin, but that's also with a 3/32 tungsten, and not done the tacks

[@shelliesman7552]

Justin, you are a very Qualified Welder, TIG Welder, and I’m sure that you are just as good in the other Welding Methods, Types of Welding. I made the Error of Selling my Just 2 Year Old Lincoln 300/300, that I Bought Brand New, that I Later told myself at the Time that I was Moving.... “I don’t want to Pay for any Storage, so I’ll just Buy a New Welder when I get into a House!” Hah!!!!!! I Paid for Storage anyways.... and I never Bought another Welder yet! 🤧🥴 I do have Four Beautiful Grown Kids, and 5 Great Grandchildren! I still Dream, I Dream Big Time!!!!!!! I have a Trailer that I would Love to Customize, without removing anything in the Garage, and so I’d like a TIG Welder to be able to do that. Keep up the Good Work!!!!! You Da Man, Man! 🥴👍

[@JustVoss]

Yeah definitely slower using a tig welder on a trailer but you wouldn’t have to worry about throwing sparks all over your garage like a mig.

[@juliob3]

good video man. im getting into TIg welding at my shop and this helps alot. thanks for posting. you got a new subscriber

[@edbishop4307]

Appreciated the video. The correct way is the way that works for you. Looks successful.

[@JustVoss]

I agree

[@eliapple1224]

To fill a gap focus more on the base metal add extra filler and then with the tungsten have the pool jump at the Gap Do a small bead on the edge of the base metal outside corner and then have a second pass that would fill the smaller Gap

[@evanarnold3663]

That’s how I’ve always done it on square tube 👍🏼

[@jeffreyking6016]

The radius is the thickest part of that fit up. So stack there and walk over

[@danielsheffer9912]

I usually just shove a ton of 1/8 fillet rod in! Works every time!!!😂

[@SWC44]

Been doing that for 40 plus years! THANKS

[@howder1951]

Nice! Being at an extreme rookie phase with no instruction, I am amazed at the level of detail in regards to cleanliness and buffing in comparison to "burning it out" with a 6000 series stick rod. Cheers and thanks!

[@jagboy69]

Stick with CK consumables. The only thing I buy at airgas is stainless brushes.

[@fiqryhuhu7747]

Fill the gap with filler rod..n start weld it with another filler rod

[@Bbakke12193]

get you some 1/8 filler and walk the damn cup.

[@chadhelms4948]

Brian Bakke exactly

[@willtrippe8982]

I think he forgot to open the valve on the tank 😂

[@aymack4648]

bruh...

[@Redletterearthworks]

Hey dude, I’m a pilot for Victory Air and realized about halfway through this video that you ride with us, thanks for the tip!

[@0rez]

#humblebrag

[@JustVoss]

Hey man! I swear I replied to your comment! You flying this coming season?

[@nunyabizniss6934]

Usually the way I do it is to run a pass along the thin edge and thicken it up. Works with TIG or MIG. Then you can run a weave and easily drag the puddle across 1/8" gap, or you can just really push the filler in and run a straight bead. Another trick we used was to cut a piece of 1/8 rod and lay it on the gap, then weave over it with .030 rod. That was on chromoly race car control arms.

[@No1414body]

Once I get it tacked at 4 corners I build off of the tack with a weave, I go 1/4of the way from each corner then fill in the center

[@justinfryer1347]

you have no idea what you're doing... that is okay though. youtube is full of missinformation. never weave a root. always bevel your tube, pipe, plate. when you weave on properly beveled edge it destroys the underside and ultimately makes your underside pass after the fact 3 times wider than the top side. never weave a root. its a waste of time and an improper way to weld.

[@No1414body]

To be strictly correct this is not a situation that would require multiple passes, also I would have corrected the fit up prior to starting the weld. We all have to do things we dont like,and it depends on the gap, I personally keep 1/16 and 3/32 wire for tig, if the gap is to big to fill I scrap it and redo.

[@justinfryer1347]

@@No1414body you cant always scrap and redo.. ive been welding pipe for 15 years, yo7 cant always improvise so doing things the right way is very important

[@No1414body]

Justin, you are exactly right in a perfect world concept but that was not the way the question was asked. He said non structural home type welding. If it is just something you do in your garage to make do,byou do what you can. I personally have a complete machine shop, also on big gaps I have used a structural filler or lap plate per AWS, but in this case for home and farm use it's not worth it also if I was charging someone and assuming liability it would be much different

[@justinfryer1347]

@@No1414body cutting corners one time sadly leads to cutting them again. do you drive to work in reverse? no because forward is the way to go.. there should have been a question mark in the title of the videe. proper welding and prep should be used in everything you do. if there is an exception.. its because your exception is cut wrong. do it again!

[@LuisTorres-xb3rb]

Hi! From Puerto Rico. Why did you remove the first weld?

[@offgridd]

Hi Justin, love your relaxed and informative skill sharing! Just started TIg welding because I have been soldering - electronics - all my life and doen't like to spatter around when welding something together. Still have lots of challenges to even get the arc in the middle of the two pieces (square pipes) together but this tutorial helps definately! Your cleaning tool running on air pressure is an eye opener for me, can you share what scotch type of sanding pads you use? Gonna go right to the store tomorrow to look for an air driven machine tool you are using 🙂 Keep up the good works!

[@johnschmidt2123]

Love tig. So versatile. Can sculpt with it.

[@JustVoss]

Agreed

[@hermesjackle5903]

Us welders use grinders and forget that wiping things .

[@jasonmetzgar2671]

But he has a miller shield he must be a great welder🤷‍♂️

[@t54760]

Enjoyed the video and gave it a like but I lol at this comment.

[@danielostle9460]

When I’m filling gaps I like to weld in reverse pulling torch backwards and adding the wire from the back of the pool ( bit like welding into a corner )

[@davidwhite9906]

Tack each corner and use a 1/8” filler rod and weave it in and make sure to wrap the corners

[@weldingjunkie]

Justin Voss 1/8 is probably to thick of a rod to melt on that tubing. What was it 3/16? . I would never use 1/8 on anything that thin especially with a GAP. You were right on. This guy Dave always likes to give people bad advice.

[@davidwhite9906]

Welding Junkie my Instagram is davey2103 and I can assure you I know how to weld!!! You know nothing about tig welding and you’re not much of a mig welder!

[@melaniew77msn]

@@davidwhite9906 Please pay no attention to Welding Junkie he is the village idiot of welding videos on youtube. He is the Charlie Daniels of the skin flute and being wrong about welding!

[@davidwhite9906]

tdej80 you’re exactly right and that’s a hard award to earn on here!!! He thinks I meant dab 1/8” filler when I said use lay wire and weave it in. I do it on stainless tubing all of the time

[@tater0909]

Use a larger diameter filler rod

[@evanarnold3663]

Not a good idea with a 1/16 tungsten. You’d end up having to pump more heat to get the filler to actually melt down and transfer to the puddle instead of balling up and being a general pain in the dick, ending up with bad warping, and sometimes total weld failure if it’s bad enough.

[@sickandtiredofcomplaining6574]

My ex had a huge gap...apparently I never filled it properly🥺any advice?

[@A_Man_In_His_Van]

Nope, sounds like someone else is doing the crack repairs now.

[@tford4471]

LMFAO

[@ryandass15]

Cant see anything man, Im pretty sure they make something for cameras because I can clearly see the puddles in other welding youtubers.

[@ollybarg4683]

I actually feel uncomfortable welding Pipes without a descent Gap. I need to see the Edges that need to be welded. I even like to check the welded Root through the Gap I´m welding. When you can throw a Cat through the Gap, you can weld it! :) Keep up the good Work! Nice Video!

[@MrRatkilr]

If you cant grind a bevel to the metal before welding... gap the metal. Otherwise you wont get good penetration. But that's just me and don't listen to what I say.

[@Get.better]

welcome to Tech Tip Tuesdays, Today we're Tig welding Two by Two Square Tubing. Rolls right off the tongue! lol great start to the channel guys!

[@MrAcanine]

This looks really cool. I hope this Welding School I plan on going to in NYC opens soon. Covid 19 shut everything down. Look forward to learning more thru this channel until it opens.

[@xiu-quiahuitlleal3427]

I thought the thumbnail was a This Old Tony video.

[@correyy]

Me too......:(

[@paultavres9830]

Another way Ive done it is to cut a piece of filler rod tack it into place in the gap and weave it in to the pieces wanting to weld together

[@CaptainVillanueva1]

I was thinking the same thing

[@crookedriver2079]

That's a good idea I might try that!

[@lannyfullerj3852]

Do one with oxyacetylene welding

[@UncleKennysPlace]

Easy to do with any method, with practice. First, you practice making holes, and doing setups with large gaps. I found that the easiest part! Then you fix your errors. TIG is the best way to fill aluminum.

[@merlin4809]

Let me say up front that I like the video, and if I had to bridge a gap and my mig and stick welders were broke this is the technique I would use. But let me also say this is a very labor intensive way to join two mismatched pieces of metal. It would be far quicker if material allowed to properly cut the tubes so they butt up nicely, then you could lay a nice stack of dimes after tacking up square. Barring that, there are stick rods (ie 7014) that are designed to bridge gaps from the get-go. Mig welding is also a fine choice if fits are poor and appearance is not critical. Structural and fail strength must also be taken into account when choosing your weapon.

[@MrRatkilr]

Its not the best way to do it. But it can get the job done. Depends on if structural integrity is important. or for warpage. I have used this technique on non-critical items.

[@banzaiib]

need a mask lens in front of your camera :) still love it... oh... there it is :)

[@JustVoss]

I’v been watching out for that in newer videos.

[@bencannon2847]

Just weave across the gap and fill it mate. Depending on the size of the gap sometimes I might get 2 pieces of filler wire, clamp one end in the vice and other in a drill chuck and twist them together.

[@stevo68]

I'd never thought of doing that, I'll have to try it one day.

[@jaxonsantos5788]

I would walk the cup

[@Interdiction]

You need to filter the cam ..I cannot see jack when you strike up

[@hunterromano5562]

RADNOR is the biggest pos company ive ever done business with. idk how they did it, but even their basic welding rods (6011,6010,7018) were all absolute trash they all ran like they had been waterlogged for like 10 years. needless to say but i lost about 28 pounds of rods because they wouldn't take them back and i couldn't use them.

[@ronmiller682]

I absolutely live watching your videos. You talk as if we are all equall (whixh we are lol) you dont seem to get to excited and ya work through the problem. Im learning quite a bit watching you. Thank you foe sharing. I would love to move down south and get a job working for a race team. Its my altimate goal.

[@Roensmusic]

do you also clean your table when you clean every part youre going to weld xd .........didnt see it in the video, but i think the only dirt left was on the table, some rust at least

[@JustVoss]

I wipe it off a lot, only scotch brite it once in awhile.

[@jimwardlow7830]

I was looking to see you wipe the tube with cleaner after you cleaned the weld with the wire wheel. Thought sure you would. Maybe you did off camera. Enjoyed the video very much good to see a deferent way.

[@JustVoss]

If I showed how many times I wipe stuff off I feel like it would get old.

[@Obliteratu]

I'm sorry, maybe I'm just in a bad mood or maybe I'm jaded by modern fast-paced videos but I never even got to the technique. For my money, this could have easily been a video of 10 or even 5 minutes. And I'll happily sit through a tool restoration video for half an hour. I really don't need to see you buff every surface to a high shine if you're just welding the end. Horses for courses. I'll stop now, be about your day, sirs.

[@darkforcex7362]

I usually keyhole gaps. Feed the wire from the back side. Its easier to weave the puddle. Then again you can just use 1/8 rod and lay wire the gap. Depends on the application.

[@adysdelicias1465]

Dam I don't know you needed to stay with the same brands . Maybe that what's wrong with my Miller welder it seems to once in a while go crazy... It seems to just build up carbon black spots while welding like if I had way to much argon.. almost like a car exhaust pipe building up carbon on the tail pipe ... Gets me upset sometimes

[@spudpud-T67]

I wonder if forming individual teeth as you call them isn't more difficult than just starting at one side and bridging continuously as you go left to right.. That way you have the two sides and the recently finished fill to join to. Forming teeth is like working with 20 problems ( 20 separate gaps) rather than just 1 initial gap then weaving to 3 faces. If you have tacked the corners then there should be no twisting. The technique I describe is my go to for arc / stick welding.

[@tybays]

I'm guessing if you have a tig, then 99% probability you have a mig. Not talking trash but I would've definitely miged the gaps and run a final pass with tig for looks. No shielding gas on the inside of the tube while running tig can cause alot of problems.

[@JS-yc8wj]

for stick welding I do C shape from smallest side to biggest side building a bridge along the way, smallest gap side doesnt burn out quickly like it does when you get to the end of the big gap side. CCCCC

[@dirtywelder483]

Wedge collets will fix tha problem for you mate.i had the same problem with standard collets swelling and twisting from use and heat..switched to wedge's and problem solved, made things so much easier..

[@catmechanic1261]

this would be a triple bitch if this had to be done "in place".....First thing,....measure twice, cut once.....mission accomplished

[@LestonDr]

Great job keeping the camera stable... nice audio too! thank you.

[@RMS-gl6wl]

That "gap" is easy if you use the "lay wire" technique you should only use bridging for x-ray welds. Lay wire is getting a bigger wire and lay it across the gap then you can run it over with the torch and some more wire. That undercut is because you don't use enough filler wire.

[@atticus9907]

You COULD just get bigger filler rods or even tack 2(or more) smaller diameter rods together side by side and weld it in one pass...just a suggestion.

[@Aint1S]

Just put two opposing tacks on the work and a third on the backside to keep it locked in place the measure you want your gap to stay... Then start at your first tack/bridge and run with it! The weld pool will follow your tungsten, you don't have to hedge your bets, by doing all of these unnecessary tacks. You'll see a good sized keyhole with a nice gap and honestly, it's easier with TIG to know what your penetration is going to be with a big gap. For most of the travel while walking the cup, you don't really need to add much filler wire since you're using thin metal. You've got to take the training wheels off and run with it to see the keyhole form and add filler where needed... Keyhole will let you know. Then keep on walking and you're going to finish the part.

[@david131092]

If you cut the box “crooked” filled the gap up with wire so it shrunk & took that long cleaning the base metal before welding in my place - you’d get the sack for being a sap.

[@chrismannifield3222]

Be careful with certain lacquer thinners, and esp brake clean, when weld arc is flashed on them they produce phosgene gas, and given enough years and saturation, youll be pushin daisy's. There are no old welders after all.