How To Train Climbing Power Endurance on a Fingerboard

Training power endurance is one of the most important climbing specific sessions that you will do when entering the peak portion of your training/climbing season as a route climber (or if you're a boulderer doing super long problems or traverses!). For many of us, time and access to the best facilities can sometimes be a struggle, so when we're struggling to get on a climbing surface there's the potential to have an extremely effective power endurance workout on a fingerboard.
Like all climbing training sessions, you want to only do this form of exercise once you are familiar and accustomed to both the intensity and form. Build up slowly over the weeks and remember that this is an advanced, intense form of training that needs experience and climbing history.
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[@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy]

Awesome Tom, thanks so much for the information and effort you guys put into these training vids.

[@shanehoubart9832]

Love your work Tom:) Can't wait to do the Lattice Light plan - just got to get a little stronger first! Shine on,Shane HOz

[@PetrShypila]

This is one of my favorite climbing channels on KZbin. Live it for being very informative rather than entertaining. Thank you very much for your work guys!

[@alemakhoul4899]

This is such great content. Major ups from São Paulo, thank you guys so much for the effort put in these :) a few months trying to keep up with your advice and already seeing some benefits!

[@kabafit]

TX Tom for explaining - very useful, the idea with the adjusted harness is brilliant

[@LongBoy.0]

love the detailed explanation. gonna bookmark this vid for later!

[@juliangreaves4727]

Awesome description. Many thanks guys.

[@AcfLavertyy]

Thankyou very much for such a straight forward and informative video. Great stuff!

[@ejl74]

This was beyond amazing. A ton of warm ups which help to vary my routine. Thanks a bunch!

[@alemakhoul4899]

This is absolute gold! Thanks again guys, saving us on this apocalypse

[@stefanmathez]

Great informative content guys. Keep it coming

[@simonkahl4554]

me partying when the gyms are open again 2:56

[@CoffeeStop101]

Flippin sick video!!!!!!!

[@JasonOgasian]

Thanks for the awesome content. I'm going to be working through a lot of your exercises in the next month and then probably signing up for a Lite Plan. Cheers!

[@LatticeTraining]

Jason Ogasian no problem! Pleased to hear that you’ve found it useful 😊

[@leoandre2171]

very nice, keep on going !!!

[@hubarantoine1185]

Very nice and useful video !

[@justinleong5946]

learning so much here. thanks!!

[@gmoooooney]

So awesome! thanks

[@MitchellRoman97]

Thanks Tom 😊

[@felipegarcia05189]

Thanks!

[@McPvPNinjas]

I'm loving the new content! So helpful. Thank you! I was wondering if you guys may release some competition style training plans/workouts? Specifically... I'd like to know how I could create my own weekly training plan to follow.

[@LatticeTraining]

Bean we already work with lots of competition climbers, so yes, that’s something we can definitely cater for! 😊

[@rsrs7880]

Great Video!

[@ugomaranza6778]

great video...bravo

[@muddsnyder]

At first I thought the whole "really effective warmup" @1:09 was just those two backward arm circles! 😁

[@pallade89]

Thank you, extremely well explained. Lazy climber-proof

[@petep1619]

Excellent video, thanks for taking the time. I don't feel quite ready to pay for training, being a 7a redpoint, 6c onsight climber, so having accessible, evidence-based and free content is really important. Gonna go nab that app, cheers lads!

[@LatticeTraining]

Pete P yeah enjoy the Crimpd App! It’s there to provide some free goodness 😊

[@lefauvelegacy]

learnt so much thanks for this qualitative video

[@GCiova]

I just finished this new routine.... it was isane! I did the routine with my body weight (I think around 80% of my max) and the intensity was very high! My first rep was about 2 minute and 10 second of hanging, my last was around 30 sec... insane! I add to my training regime by now! Thanks Lattice for all this cool stuffs, you help folks like me everyday.

[@LatticeTraining]

GCiova this is pretty intense!! You want to carefully consider your rationale for going in at 80%, as if you want more of an aerobic, power endurance stimulus you really want to be looking at a significantly lower intensity 😊

[@ugomaranza6778]

Dead Hang: 20mm Edge 6 sets x 5 reps x 00:07 per rep Resistance: 80% of Maximum Rest 00:03 between reps & 03:00 between sets hi tom .....how many time for week this session ? and how many sets ? thanks a lot a big congratulation

[@borisp9163]

Great video, I have your app and I purchased already and its amazing, but I miss there training program only for fingerboarding, Like how often per day, or per week, or combinations of low and high intensity based on pro experiences. I am after injury right now I dislocated my ankle from falling from Boulder and Hangboard is only thing I can do right now so I want to improve my finger strenght but no overtrain.

[@maxzhernovkov1602]

Hi! Loved the video! I love the idea that the less you hang on the hangboard, also the amount of rest decreases. This workout is targeting one grip type. Would you recommend combining two or three grip types with the same approach in one session? Or what kind of power-endurance training could be done, if I want to use multiple grip types in one session?

[@LatticeTraining]

Yup, for a well trained individual this approach can be used. Generally, you would want to work non-preferred grip positions when fresh and move to preferred as you fatigue.

[@nico5167]

can you guys make a mini series for beginner to intermediate climbers? or illustrate what differences you would prescribe for climbers in that experience cohort

[@aviduke]

Interesting you do 60% to failure when the crimpd offers 70% and 80% workouts with fixed sets and reps . Still a great video and great app. Thanks for making this information available and i look forward to making progress

[@benbuchmann7826]

Hi, thank you for your videos, they are pretty helpful. I don't know if you still do those ask Lattice video, but do you have something for training dynamic moves and jumps? I realy struggle with those coordination jumps and especially when I have to land on my feet somewhere. Do you have an advice for me?

[@NickPierpoint]

I see that the latest Crimpd has this as a specific assessment test workout - 8 sets of reducing rest time based on previous set - great idea and works really well. In terms of measuring improvement between sessions are you primarily looking at increased time under tension or a slower decay between sets? Or are both equally important? What sort of frequency would you be thinking of for both assessment and training? Would you use the assessment protocol as a training protocol when not able to get out and climb?

[@marksacrophoto]

Hi! Love this. How many times a week should I be doing this?

[@Drinkyoghurt]

What's your opinion on adding weight vs making hold sizes smaller? I feel like both have their place and aren't that interchangeable.

[@giopilli1]

Very very cool video - thanks for posting - my biggest question however is what is the abacus in the background used for? I kept looking at it - May be there is a some finger training to be done with it ;)

[@LatticeTraining]

Oh that's some of the coaches in the team who love it for counting sets and reps. Old school! :-)

[@giopilli1]

Lattice Training I found a new meaning for my daughter abacus which I was about to throw away! Thanks!

[@wibby2143]

It would be cool if in the app we could design our own session. Like set the timer amounts for on, off, rest, and the number of sets / reps. I think the beastmaker app has that.

[@LatticeTraining]

Borris good idea! Whilst we do have the “open session” as a freestyle logging session in the app where you can add pretty much anything, we’re going to be adding huge database of sessions this year - also including options for various cardiovascular workouts too. We’re definitely working as hard and as fast as we can on this. Next release over this month is that all Lite Plans will sit inside the app and coaches will be able to view each session completed as well. Progress, progress! 😊

[@wibby2143]

Can you guys cover rest and recovery a bit more? How much one could / should be fingerboarding during the week for instance?

[@LatticeTraining]

Borris we will be covering some of this stuff in an episode coming very soon. If you look out for the next set of “Ask Lattice” we have a little competition for viewers to have their training plans analysed by us.

[@LatticeTraining]

Borris we will be covering some of this stuff in an episode coming very soon. If you look out for the next set of “Ask Lattice” we have a little competition for viewers to have their training plans analysed by us.

[@kigashouse7176]

What's the difference between using a pulley system to remove weight compared to standing on resistance bands?

[@danielball8218]

I’m not sure whether you touched on this in any of your videos but how often do you fingerboard?? I’ve read a couple of times a week is ample but would really like your guidance on this.

[@felixd1127]

Is there an advantage or difference between these cascading cycles and the method from the app: 6 sets, 12 reps , see aerobic power training?

[@dennisvanlier3159]

Thanks for the vid Tom! Great content. Just found out tho that I cannot download the Crimpd app to my mac... :(

[@LatticeTraining]

Dennis van Lier you can access it directly on desktop by just going to Crimpd.com and logging in 😊

[@dennisvanlier3159]

@@LatticeTraining Thanks so much! Should have know that :P

[@DinoTamer23]

Great video! Can this be done same day as a repeater workout if you break for at least 6 hrs in between?

[@LatticeTraining]

Strength and endurance can be trained on the same day. But unless you have a really big background of fingerboard training i'd recommend against doing both forms on a fingerboard. Try to add some more variability in grip positions.

[@giopilli1]

In Crimp the 50% repeaters max out at 12 repetitions with 4 minutes rest. The workout is great but not exactly the "cascade" to failure workout described in the video. I cannot find the exact workout of this video in Crimp - am I missing something? or is just not there? (if it not there would be a great addition - obviously I can do it with other apps but I am log my workouts in crimp fanatic )

[@sanderwerelds364]

could this be combined with doing 4x4 ? Same day ? same session ?

[@MrDziuka]

Nice work 👍 perhaps I would call this workout as strength endurance? If power is strength plus speed doesn't it relate to more explosive movement like campusing or training power endurance on routes or circuits where we can climb more dynamically? Also perhaps leg loops would be helpful in this type of training? Thanks for explaining the calculations 🙂

[@LatticeTraining]

It’s down to the terminology in a way - you look across most sports and “power endurance” isn’t used in reference to power training. Of course you can also term it strength endurance... but typically (darn those search patterns!) people will search the term power endurance when looking up this type of advice so that’s what we go for 😬

[@danielsusser1]

What happened to episode 8?its not on the playlist!

[@910suck]

Do you have videos on tendon recovery?

[@LatticeTraining]

EZ not yet... but we’ll try and keep improving content!!

[@alinalin0]

@@LatticeTraining yes please!

[@SpiritAnimalGO]

please do this idea! would be very helpful to know

[@910suck]

PeturMag ah yeah, seen dave’s videos. But everyone has a different take on the topic so it’d be interesting to hear

[@PeturMag]

I aggree.

[@ebachini]

If people have friends who work at heights, do access or tree work, ask them for old harness and strip them down. A lot more comfortable, higher and thicker than a climbing harness.

[@jptre4315]

Nice video, i would like to see more Q: Is there a special reason why you are using 60% of your body weight? thanks

[@BOodidarma]

He's not using 60% of his bodyweight, watch the video again.

[@yogyclimbs]

Why did you set up the pulley so the cord has to go "around" the pulley? Looks like that setup creates more friction then if the weight end of the cord would run straight down on the "wall side" and the climbers end comes out in the front... Apart from that, again I must say that I love your crimpd, especially the buit-in analytics.

[@LatticeTraining]

It probably looks a bit worse on the video than it is in real life! Ideally (as you point out) you want as close to zero as possible, in terms of frictional advantage in the pulley. Good point!

[@natebussard2670]

Hopefully not too dumb of a question but the weight you put on the pulley system is the difference from your body weight to your 60%? (If body weight is more than your 60%)

[@LatticeTraining]

So what you're trying to do with this is know your total maximum (much like working out 1RM for weight lifting) and then doing the training at a % of this. So for example if you weigh 70kg and can hang for max with +30kg, then your maximum load is 100kg. 60% of this is 60kg, so therefore for a 60% session you'd need to take 10kg OFF your bodyweight :-)

[@aaronreed6585]

How should i use a finger board to supplement climbing as i can only climb once a week. Thanks

[@LatticeTraining]

Aaron Reed come and join our Facebook community group page (lots of help on there) or we also provide bespoke fingerboard plans 💪💪

[@chaozzah]

While this level of detail is great for some, I would personally love a TL;DR somewhere in the video. At the end you somewhat summarise it as "do this exercise 6x with workout-rest ratio of 1-2". Is all that math optimisation at the start really worth it when they key goal is having short but effective workouts? Tip for others - instead of going for a complex pulley system, I use special workout rubber bands which depending on thickness also reduce your body weight by x kg. I still need them to complete even basic hangboard exercises, but you can just hang them over your hangboard not requiring you to screw more holes in your walls/ceiling :)

[@LatticeTraining]

Yes, the exercise bands are a great way of roughly giving assistance! Good for pull up bars as well :-)

[@marcusglue2882]

Why is it called 'power endurance'? Where is the explosive, fast and powerful part?

[@kappydane1]

What is the workout name in Crimpd? I don't see one with open ended 7"/3" with not set number of reps.

[@LatticeTraining]

Richard Dower we deliberately didn’t put the same workout in both as we wanted to give people as many session ideas as possible. Let us know if you need more info and we’ll try to help 😊

[@yogyclimbs]

@@LatticeTraining , that actually is a bit sad because it is one of the sessions necessary for the assessment for your own Lite Training Plan... I missed it and - poor me ;) - had to work out something on my own with a Tabata Timer.

[@mountbeckworth1]

Thanks for the advice, but, please, no generic background musak. Very distracting. Really enjoy your videas.

[@LatticeTraining]

George Carlyle what?! But the poor music composer... think how insulted they’ll be that you thought it was generic 😁. Haha!

[@gst1375]

Isn't this video showing static endurance training and not power endurance ? I always thought power endurance is doing "powerful" moves over longer periodes..

[@lucanussx2718]

Man... just switch the ropes on the pulley and it should be perfect :D. At least it looks like you switched the ropes. I mean... use the carabiner you clicked into your harness for the weights and use the other end.

[@timpeix]

Thanks for the video! I just started my Lattice Training Plan Assessment and wasn’t sure what weight to use to get to the exact 60% of my max load capacity. Do I use a weight on the other side of the pulley system that exactly matches the difference between my body weight and the 60% max load? E.g. if the difference is 11.4 kg, can I use a 12.5 kg weight on the pulley?

[@LatticeTraining]

Hi Tim, yes exactly. Use the pulley to provide assistance. If you need to remove ~11.4kg to be at 60% of max load/strength, using 12.5kg on the other side of a pulley will be fine.

[@curvenut]

@lattice training you should put a table of cintent in the description wuth the time stamp of the video. you video is hard to watch

[@nougiw26]

The fact that you went progressively to 33kg, making lot of tries, doesn't count? It kinda wears you out a bit, no? I mean, isn't it possible that you could have endured those last 2 secs with 35kg if it was on your very first try? Oh, and BTW I can't stand 7sec on a 20mm edge. So, if I get this right, my maximal total loading is less than my body weight, thus I have to use a pulley to take off some weight even for types of exercise that are required to be done at 100% of your ability, right?

[@jackY1392]

60%of total load, is that more aerobic mor than power endurance?🤔🤔

[@LatticeTraining]

Its a sliding scale but still much "power endurance". Its will be more aerobic than 70% for example but our research shows many climbers will need to be operating below 30-40% to mainly aerobic.

[@richardbradley1532]

Surely a 1/4 crimp would be better? 🤪

[@Sepp2009]

great video and content as always but way too long imo

[@LatticeTraining]

T Erha get ready for next we’ll be doing a 6 minute workout 😂

[@assaqwwq]

I didn't get any of it 60% of 30 seconds with 7 seconds on but double that rest time. Why talk so much and say so little. Just put the numbers on the screen. Also downloaded your app. Don't know how to use it. Just cause it's free doesn't mean it has to be this difficult...