How to TRAIN ENDURANCE on a small board, woody, spray wall

[@jonpk4760]

fantastic stuff keep up the training related vids plz!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Cheers. Will do!

[@elooouan]

this channel is pure gold. Have been watching for a few months but now that I'm getting back in the training grind this is so useful!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Sweet! Psyched you’re finding some valley. Have fun getting back into it all ✌️😀

[@jacksonwhite23]

Bloody good quality videos!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Cheers!

[@haywardab]

Loving the regular videos! Way too often I get bogged down in the specifics of training and not in grounding it back to outdoor specific movement/pacing

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Easy to overlook. Keep the goal the goal is a great one I like to keep in mind.

[@Domje]

Great to watch the board dismantling video where you send the 8a proj. I watched that video before this one so was good to see you trying it in this video. Loving your channel, keep up the good work!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

It's good having recurring characters haha. Psyched you're liking the videos :)

[@kevedwards]

Just recently built a board and been looking for tips, thanks for the vid 👍

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Ahh good one. I’m super close to building my new board and there’s a ton more I’m keen to share ✌️. Stay tuned 😀

[@joonseokim2364]

sick man! I totally agree with the Instagram bit; sometimes addiction takes control of all of us. Love your videos.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yes, it really can. Not the best thing. Psyched you like the videos :)

[@NEMESIScreator]

I am gonna try this tonight. Hi from Townsville, QLD!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Nice one. Enjoy! Gday from the blue mountains. I do miss North QLD!

[@ryantaylor6470]

Quickly becoming one of my favorite climbing channels!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha thank you! Glad you’re enjoying it

[@normipaiva]

Good video. Been hitting the spray wall now and I feel like it might kick me out of my rut.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Ahh nice one. Annoying when you find yourself in a bit of a rut. Sometimes a new direction, like time on the spray wall, can help for sure. Sometimes you just need some time off too. I made a video about it a little while ago. Something along the lines of 'reset your performance enhancer,' or something like that.

[@martinplot124]

Thx for tips, i am just gathering some info so i can build spray wall in my bedroom, your one looks epic 🤘

[@TomOHalloranAus]

ahhhh that was my dream as a kid!! that's rad. have fun with it!

[@comptonstills]

Warms up on problems harder than I can climb max effort....project looks sick!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Project is very good!

[@BoulderBook]

Nice wall !🔥

[@TomOHalloranAus]

It was a great little one. Really enjoyed climbing on it

[@martinplot124]

Thx for tips, great stuff 🤟

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Glad you liked them 😀

[@MF3652]

Awesome video, thanks!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thank you. Psyched you like it

[@Jordan-mq7ez]

Such good content brother 👍🏼👍🏼

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Glad you enjoyed 😀✌️

[@micchops3921]

Awesome vid, im straight onto couch setting some circuits after this one

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Double trouble! Nice one

[@chandlerstotts3968]

Love the content my friend 👌

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thank you 🙏

[@LukeRockCimber]

Really enjoying the content lately! Noticed you don’t have a lot of tiny crimps on your board and I was wondering why?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Cheers. There are a few on there, you just can’t see them they are so small haha. Nah I have stayed clear of having too many of the real mincer edges. I get too excited by them and end up going over board and hurting myself. But there’s enough their to wet the appetite 😃

[@LukeRockCimber]

@@TomOHalloranAus That makes sense; I understand and respect it! thanks for the insight! I really enjoy the spray wall content and have put up a spray wall of my own. I added a lot of tiny sharp crimps so that I could train small edges on the board and then only train heavy hangs on the hangboard as Tyler Nelson has been preaching about. Admittedly, I am early in my training experience compared to someone like you but its interesting to see your approach.

[@mojoofo]

awesome video mate! i fell your pain with the rain.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

It’s a pretty monumental amount of water coming down

[@mojoofo]

@@TomOHalloranAus yeah mate I'm in Brissy and it has been flooding

[@olivierroy7369]

Wow really good video I learned a ton!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Awesome, glad you got something out of it

[@louisdoherty]

Awesome video! Thank you for the great content :)

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thank you :)

[@ceppuno]

fenomenal

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Glad you enjoyed 😀

[@LemonLimeFlavoured]

sick vid! ...pretty sure I would be dead after your "warm up"

[@TomOHalloranAus]

haha oh no!

[@strongarmclimbing]

Sounds like the weather down under is just as finnicky as New England, hope you get some prime conditions soon!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

It's junk, and only getting worse!

[@strongarmclimbing]

@@TomOHalloranAus Fall back and wait for winter!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

sounds like a plan

[@alvarorodolfodavilamorales4118]

Fantastic video Tom, can you provide me the name of the app that you use at the beginning of your video, I'll be more than grateful with that

[@TomOHalloranAus]

For the board? Stokt. It’s great

[@RealWorldClimbing]

Ya, that looks intense at that angle. Power Endurance perhaps?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yeah more in the power endurance end of the spectrum at 20 moves. The 40s are proper endurance though

[@frankheiser2775]

Just discovered your channel, and love it! Great information, and like your style a lot :) Training quite a bit at home some very inspiring for me!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Awesome! Thank you and welcome aboard. (no pun intended)

[@JorgePacker]

Noice one!!! I'll stick with my v5's for now though... Lol

[@TomOHalloranAus]

'for now' ;)

[@BlakePizzey]

What's the grid on your wall? Do you like it? Recommended something different?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

The tnut layout? 200mm x 200mm. But offset by 100mm. I made a home wall tour video that goes in depth about it all 😀

[@gvanaco]

What is the density of climbing holds that you have on your wall. What's the distance between the T-nuts? Nice wall.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I’ve gone with 200mm x 200mm for tnut spacing. Made a ‘board tour’ vid which goes a lot more in-depth for my whole training set up which you might be interested in 😀

[@Animatedron]

Loving your content mate. Very jealous of that board! Was wondering if you had any insight into having an adjustable angle board? I'm currently planning my own board and was wondering if it was worth having it adjustable? Was thinking of having it at say 20-40 degrees, or just fixed at 40. It would be a mini moonboard hybrid. Keep up the content! 💪

[@TomOHalloranAus]

If you can easily make it adjustable (construction point of view) and you think you’d use it (ease of adjustment) then it’s worthwhile. I’d be inclined to just do a fixed 40 though. 40 is a great angle and if you have a varied selection of holds you can get a lot out of it. A couple volumes makes the wall pretty good too

[@Animatedron]

@@TomOHalloranAus cheers for the input. 👍 Basically what I had been thinking, so good to have the reassurance it was logical.

[@emericq]

Any tips for building a good home spray wall? preference for 40 or 50? Building one soon, with the goal of improving body tension and pushing hard bouldering!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I'm very keen to make a video discussing this! Some quick ideas though. If you plan on popping a few volumes on the wall i think 45-50 is pretty awesome. I'd definitely recommend volumes if you can make it happen. another consideration is the holds you have (juggier/small etc) and the desired use of the board. power/hard move board, endurance board, both? This will dictate how you set. The main thing is set it for you, and whoever else will be using it, and your desired outcomes.

[@vincentkrause7097]

How long is the duration of the 20moves circiut? How much costs such a small board plus the holds?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

generally around 60-90 seconds depending on move complexity. A board can be anything from almost nothing, to $20,000+. Scrounging materials from people, second hand bits, make your own holds from off cuts, old holds from gyms etc. You can also buy 6 fibre glass features and be out of pockets $3, 000. This hold collection is nearly 20 years in the making. T-nuts and bolts are from my home wall when I was a kid. If I had a wild stab in the dark, I'd guess replacing this, starting from new, would cost about $6,000-7,000. Holds are kind of expensive these days. The construction materials are relatively cheap.

[@b04rdpr0ducti0n5]

Awesome video! Really been enjoying your content. Quick question: besides board climbing what else do you do to work on endurance?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Usually, lots of time at the cliff. However the rain had been relentless here so not much of that happening in the last couple months

[@DontFaultTheUnderdog]

nearly castrated yourself on the brick wall for a warm up 😂

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Avoiding the dab on the last move is a bit of a crux haha

[@andreporto8731]

awesome video! what's the size e angle of you wall?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thanks. Wall is 3m (wide) x 2.7m (climbing height) plus a kick board and headboard. It’s at 45 degrees

[@bouldersuechtig]

Very nice content!!! How relevant is this kind of Training for boulder comps? When (in the season) do you make this Kind of sessions and how often (per week/month)?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

This probably isn't a bad base level of endurance for bouldering. It's building a bit of that capacity to work. Though I'd be swapping to something closer to the power end of the spectrum when in season. Like a 'boulders on the minute,' or something like that. Re how often 1-2 I'd usually do, depending if I'm getting outdoors and getting pumped as well.

[@bouldersuechtig]

@@TomOHalloranAus Thank you!

[@wanderfra42]

How is possible to add personal walls to Stokt?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Jump on to the stokt website and the info is there. Essentially high res pic, email them, they populate the holds and upload for you

[@HatoriHanzo1]

Fantastic! I love the short and good videos and appreciate them - thank you 🙏 Is your board 40degrees? I was thinking that for capacity work, maybe 25-30 degrees may be more appropriate. What are your thoughts on that?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Board is 45. For me I think this is the magic angle. Especially with a few volumes screwed on to give some angle diversity. I’d hesitate to go slabbier than 40, it’s just too low angle, but that’s just me and what I want to get out of fun board climbing/training. Depends all on the resources you have at your disposal, the space you’ve got and your goals for your climbing 😀

[@HatoriHanzo1]

@@TomOHalloranAus totally! You are right. It really depends on goals. I use my moonboard at 40d for strength, and it works well for me for high end power endurance (~60-80s) but a bit too steep for me for lower end capacity work. Or I am just not strong enough 😂 or may have to add a shaking jug somewhere 🤷‍♂️

[@TomOHalloranAus]

@@HatoriHanzo1 haha a moonboard is pretty savage for endurance!

[@christianfranklin3]

How does this compare to just doing 4x4s? Seems like the main difference is jumping down off the boulder vs down climb, so you wont be constantly pulling on the holds. Do you think 4x4s will have a similar effect here?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I prefer this to 4x4s as you don’t have the down time, as you mentioned. I’d argue they both point in the same direction on the endurance spectrum though

[@martinwolczyk891]

Thanks for making these training board videos , great content here. A question, I have a 50 degree woody and it’s quite hard for me to train endurance on, I’ve seen some videos where you can train endurance with feet on the ground and doing moves just using hands on the board and leaning back, sustaining that for about 5 min. I’ve tried this and I’ve never been so pumped before. would you recommend this approach for someone who could not sustain 20-40 moves because of the sheer steepness of their board?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yeah 100% that’s a great way of doing. I’ve actually recommended that approach to friends in the past. Even play around with a few moves with feet on the wall, a few moves off. Could also be worth investing in a few more juggy holds :)

[@nbka8rs]

I do this on my minimoon at home. If its too hard then move your feet away from the wall. if you want to make it harder bring the feet closer

[@projectone1022]

Which app do you use to highlight your spray wall/ woody? Cheers!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Stokt

[@Li_Qifei]

nice video man! just curious how big is your wall? thanks

[@TomOHalloranAus]

wall is 3m wide x 2.7m long. plus small kick board and headboard

[@Li_Qifei]

@@TomOHalloranAus Thanks for the reply. It looks really nice. Can I ask how often you reset? Actually, I'd very much like to know more about this board. It could be another cool video.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Board room tour is on to do list. Once we've stopped flooding under our house. I'd reset every 2 years I think.

[@Li_Qifei]

@@TomOHalloranAus Nice! Subbed and looking forward to it.

[@MatteoCapellini]

how high is the wall?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Vertical height from the top of the headboard to the floor would be about 2.5m

[@Boomshakalaka8174]

Is there a workout that you use for core?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

TRX is great. But mostly bouldering. Strength training vid is in the works

[@mikerockell8590]

How long are your 20 moves taking ?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Usually around 60 seconds

[@mikerockell8590]

@@TomOHalloranAus 👍3 seconds per move. Still quite a fast pace unless you’re Ondra or you. Great anaerobic endurance training.

[@noiseforthealgorithm4668]

how wide is your wall? cheers

[@TomOHalloranAus]

3m. I made a full breakdown video of my wall. Go into all the details of the build, thought process etc ✌️

[@noiseforthealgorithm4668]

@@TomOHalloranAus great, thanks, I’ll have a look. Nice content !

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thanks. Hope you find it helpful 😀

[@thusspokezarathustra1600]

Looks like Tom you should stay at home and make woody videos... Your outside ones don't seem as popular.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Not a chance! I love making the outdoor ones

[@zakmorgan9320]

@@TomOHalloranAus good on you, do whatever you enjoy man, love your channel