How to train like a pro

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[@devinshende1805]

Great tips ! Cool to see the training center spray wall

[@isaacleff9207]

Love the video dude!! I definitely need to work on flexibility 😬😂

[@nikkarolides]

Never enough flexibility

[@adrienmateo549]

Thanks for the advice, definitely need to focus on flexibility and knowing when to adjust volume-intensity ratio

[@nikkarolides]

Glad it was helpful!

[@D4NKN4]

Hello! Great tips, especially in terms of cycling training/boulder intensity. However, do you have any specifications in how long should we cycle climbing intensity and even finger training? Like 1 week (let's say for a regular person i.e., 3 days a week) volume next week limit bouldering? or 2 days volume 1 day limit/week? For finger training as well, any specifications on pulley health? (as a person who has popped 2 pulleys now) Max-hangs prior to climbing or within a delay or...? Or again, should we cycle repeaters then recruitment pulls then like max-hangs? any thoughts or insights? Really wanna re-train my finger strength appropriately once my a4 pulley heals. Anyways, great video! Suggest to use music, text, and maybe graphs if you can manage to do some!

[@nikkarolides]

Good questions, I mostly was referring to building volume over a training cycle 4-6weeks. Ex. If your a runner build mileage with more performance runs closer to event (higher intensity lower volume) Although you can definitely cycle volume throughout a week as well. As far as pulley health I’m not a PT but I would say that doing lots of hang-boarding could be putting a disproportionate amount of stress on your A4 of middle and ring finger. Heres what I would consider. 1) use un-level edge, open hand or board climbing for strength gains 2) be wary about velocity and volume on fingers (especially half and full that put extra pressure on pulleys)

[@nikkarolides]

I also have grade 1 a4 strain rn. Reduce volume, build intensity over time. Tape to keep finger in open position to reduce risk, and build confidence. Stick to open hand positions / three finger drag. Good luck!

[@YDAE4]

Awesome video! Also I’m having this problem with finger training and I was wondering if you could help. So I’m climbing 3 times a week (Mo, We, Fr) with some strength training on the other days and if I add finger training in between my climbing sessions I feel noticeably weaker the next day, when I warm up on a hangboard before my climbing. So should I accept the weakness and just add a deload week every couple of month or should I stop training fingers in between my sessions (in this case should I hangboard just before the session, so I have a full rest day for my fingers in between the sessions)? What would you suggest?

[@nikkarolides]

I would first suggest climbing more 4-5 days a week, build volume over time. If your goal is to train then don’t worry about performance. Hangboard on your climbing days and stop your session when you have a force loss. Full rest day is good, but totally volume on fingers is what matters.

[@YDAE4]

@@nikkarolides I see. And if I train for 4-5 hours 3 times a week is it less affective then 3 hours 5 times a week? (my commute to a climbing gym is pretty long) Thanks for your advice anyways, it is really helpful

[@jakmogestv9821]

streching before training makes your muscles weaker always do it after or on rest days

[@nikkarolides]

“…short-duration StS (≤60 s per muscle group) trivially impairs subsequent strength and power activities (∆1-2%)” pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6895680/ Climbing is a skill sport that demands mobility.

[@44sashilo10]

really useful tips, however, can you tell me what I should do if in my vicinity there are only 2 gyms? Though they are not massive, I am able to climb all 7a-7b in them in 2-3 sessions

[@nikkarolides]

Try creating constrains that force new learning outcomes. This will increase intention, and focus on working specific skills. Hopefully you have access to a board for limit climbing, but you can also do these on set climbs. Here are some of my favorites: setting climbs/eliminates, static strength circuits, complete a boulder every 2m, speed repeats ect. These change variables such as difficulty, number of moves, rest, time, and muscle focus.

[@Asdfghjkl-ls1or]

I thought it was bad to do static stretches before climbing, because you lose some of the elasticity in your muscles (and thus strength)?

[@nikkarolides]

There is acute decreases in strength associated with stretching, particularly with longer duration stretching. This is very negligible compared to the benefits. My only concern would be potential injury risk without the stretch reflex as a safety net. (Don’t do long intense stretching before pushing yourself extremely hard Ex. Comp)

[@Asdfghjkl-ls1or]

@nikkarolides awesome answer! Good luck with trials!

[@Zyromixs]

Such good tips! Put some music behind the audio 🧑‍🍳

[@duelort4856]

Hell no

[@natenbezonb397]

the voice is a bit low volume it's a little hard to hear

[@laurensschroots4017]

There is nothing else but the voice so just put your volume up

[@natenbezonb397]

@@laurensschroots4017 my youtube, windows, and helmet were maxed, i was saying it was low compraed to the videos i watched right before