How To TRAM Your CNC Router Using Basic Tools, CNC Router Tramming Tutorial Video

[@Sbregher]

Finally, someone that explains "tramming" so that I get it! Thanks much Garrett!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Sbregher, glad to help my friend!

[@danneil7806]

Time to tram!!! Got the machine running much better now with a USB cable bought locally. Cable that came with it was no good. Cables I had at home were no good. Cable I bought was specified good for high speed data transfer. That worked flawlessly. Really cool to jog that thing around. .

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Dan, glad to hear you got it sorted! Im excited to see what projects you make with that bad boy first.

[@TheWingnut58]

To simply this process, several years ago I made myself a tramming bar akin to those used to tram milling machines. A half inch square bar of aluminum 6 inches long with quarter inch pin for the collet at one end, and a small dial indicator at the other....works great

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Rick, that is a great idea brother! That Definitely simplifies the process.

[@hanspijpers2100]

Exactly, that is the most common used method I come across the internet No difficult holding of a square against a small piece of the router body, but directly from the collet outward and that gives a 360 degree view of the tramming that you need. Should be the first thing to do on a new spoil board, and then shave off a wee bit off the surface.

[@totesmcpreesh7617]

Literally the issue I’ve encountered and didn’t know the words for it. Thank you!!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Totesmcpreesch, you are so welcome my friend.

[@mr.p9882]

Thanks Garrett!!! This is the FIRST video I have found of this type on youtube, and I really wanted it!!! My machine arrived Tuesday, it was damaged due to what I believe was not such good packaging, and am working with Seinci to resolve that. Both Y axis rails were beat up and the edges the wheels ride on were nicked up and I am afraid to run the wheels on them. When I get it up and running I will DEFINITELY use your video to verify my machine is trammed in properly. Tramming the heads on mills at work is a common practice since we have to tilt them for certain milling processes (on the Bridgeports and Trak Mills that only have a three axis capability)...and sopmetimes a mill process requires the head to be set at specific angles. I have followed other machinists who have not properly trammed the head and ended up with mis-drilled holes or worse. I've learned to NEVER assume!!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Mr. P, I'm sorry your machine had some damage on transport brother! I'm glad Seinci is working to make things right with you. I couldn't agree more, definitely don't assume! It can absolutely ruin your projects if you do!

[@WaterN2WineCreations]

Thank you for the heads up on tramming the router…. As a retired machinist with all my indicators in a drawer, I will use the indicators to get it spot on! I will probably use a 1/4” dowel checked for straightness and chuck it into the router.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

WaterN2WineCreations, glad to hear this one helped you brother!

[@LYTOMIZE_Woodshop]

Thanks! After doing all the Easter, Mother's Day and Father's Day work I resurfaced last week... and found exactly what you described. Now I know what I'm doing this afternoon or tomorrow. Another timely video - I should have watched it 3 weeks ago, but it has been nuts with the end of season kid activities!! Keep up the great work!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Michael, no problem I'm glad to help! Just in time for a weekend project my friend!

[@bubba6945]

Just offering you some free insight and a simple thanks for your teaching us how to use the vectrics program

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Brian, thanks for the input!

[@zippe43467]

Thanks Garrett, my mill will be here this week from my son's shop, and I had concerns about checking everything after the move. Very helpful video.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Zippe43467, you're so welcome! Glad to help my friend!

[@arcwoodworking6293]

Great video Garrett!I wish I would have watched this before I wasted hours trying to tram my Longmill Z carriage using only the eccentric nuts. Thank you.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

ARC Woodworking, I'm so glad that it helped! Sorry to hear you wasted all that time.

[@douglasmitchell4063]

Thanks again Garrett! Always learning from you.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Hey Doug, hope this took you to the next level!

[@georgethomas6392]

Garrett, your content is great. There are lots of great how-to channels out there, but yours goes above and beyond with the web store, all the support files that go along with your bits, etc. Just followed your instructions in this video to tram my first machine (a Next Wave Shark). Turned out my machine was not trammed well along the Y axis, and I fixed that by shimming the mounting bracket. You really have a great little ecosystem here to give people everything they need to get going. Highly impressive. Kudos!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

George, wow thank you so much! I'm humbled! I truly love what I do and getting to be a part of our awesome CNC community here! I'm glad to be a part of your cnc journey and hopefully make things a little easier along the way!

[@deanroadifer6013]

Garrett, thank you for sharing all the good information. Today I decided to use your method to check my machine and found I need to make some small adjustments. Since I just had cataract surgery my vision isn't up to par yet til I get my new glasses and since it is a challenge to hold the square steady on the spindle I decided to go the other direction and put the long edge on my spoiler board then slid the square up against the spindle and used a feeler gauge between the spindle and the square to find if it was true or not. Worked great and is much easier to do.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Dean, I'm glad you found it helpful brother. It sounds like you got things all figured out and ready to roll. You're method sounds like it worked like a charm, nice work!

[@Chaosweaver-1]

I've been trying to tram my 30x30 with no progress. I have one side looking perfect, and the other side is way off. I adjust, surface, and it's back to being off.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Andy, I recommend taking a look at all your bolts and making sure everything is tight! If there's any slop in the machine, it may explain your tramming issue!

[@Chaosweaver-1]

@CNC Routers, Beginners & Beyond - Garrett Fromme I'll double check everything as soon as the current carve is done, thanks

[@blazegbs]

On the mark again Garrett!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Thank you JR

[@scottyboy2oo1]

Nice, you jsut saved me several $100 bucks. Much appreciated.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Scottyboy2oo1, no problem brother I'm happy to help!

[@kulrajsingh6426]

Thanks for another great video. Just did as instructed in the video and the surfacing is smooth as can be. Thanks.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Kulraj, right on my friend! Happy to help!

[@michaellevine6019]

Nice tutorial Garrett.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Hey Michael, hope you found it helpful

[@JasonKunda]

Thanks! This is exactly what I needed for my new Longmill. I have a Bosch router and, here, I always thought I had to adjust the spindle holder (the 2 larger screws that clamp the router in place). So far I made your spoilboard and a practice inlay based on your videos. Thank you, they are very helpful

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Jason, you're so welcome! Glad I could help my friend!

[@jessietapia4]

Thank you Garrett I'll have to check mine to see if it needs any adjustments. Great video!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Jessie, it's definitely a good thing to check. If your machine isn't trammed properly it can really mess up your projects! Happy cutting brother!

[@SothpawDesigns]

Great video. Thanks!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

SothpawDesigns, Glad you enjoyed the video! Happy to help.

Hi Garrett, iv added an ooznest workbee cnc to my channel and I have to say your videos on the vectric software has been absolutely invaluable in getting me up and running so thanks very much. I just need to build my audience now 🙂. Tommy from Ireland 🇮🇪

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Tommy, very cool addition brother! I'm glad the videos on vetric have been helpful! I know that learning curve can be a little steep! The best advice I can give you to build your audience is always lead with value! Keep up the good work!

[@woodskid4ever]

I've used threaded inserts, over hex head machine screws for leg adjusters. Add a backing nut so it doesn't work itself loose. Don't use cap screws or anything recessed since they can get full of junk and must be cleaned before adjusting. You may have already considered this...Good video. Gotta be plumb in the Z axis!

[@josefonseca2672]

Thank you Garrett, this is a great help.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

JoseFonseca, you are so welcome my friend.

[@pwoike]

Thank you so much Garrett….great job!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Hey Paul, thanks I'm glad you found this useful

[@Ryan.Chapman]

Garrett, I built a DIY CNC router about 8 years ago or so using Dave Gatton's plans to build the majority of the CNC out of plywood. That being said I have all the electronic components of a CNC machine. I would like to convert all the plywood rails, gantry, etc. to aluminum extrusion so that it is easier to setup and adjust as you show in this video. The plywood system works fine but adjusting anything is not a quick process. Do you know if I can get a machine such as the Longmill CNC without the electronic components? Just the skeleton (rails, gantry, and hardware).

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Ryan, that is a great machine brother! I am not too sure about your machine choice on that one. Most sell with electronics. The AVID CNC is one great one that sells them separately.

[@ronnorris1504]

As always, thanks for an informative and helpful video.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

You're welcome Ron

[@divchief07ut]

How about holding the square on the router body with some large rubber bands?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Divchief, that could work but it might be best to hold it by hand so it is more accurate!

[@BrianW2979]

Would it be effective use a digital angle finder? Zero it out on the table, then make sure it also reads zero on your router body

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Brian, that could work but the problem you might face is we are working with very small degrees of measurement. Your digital angle finder might not be accurate enough.

[@JMarcusPedroza]

Garrett another great video thanks for the details! While using your surfacing bit I’m getting small ridges in the other direction. As if the router tip need to move towards the user? Is there a way to adjust the Y axis tram? The ridges are barely catching with the fingernail test, so it doesn’t need much. My issue is: if I loosen the router I don’t have any way of knowing where I started from. I messaged longmill and they have no suggestions

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Marcus, your best bet is to install shims in the mount of the router to adjust this y axis tram. It might take a little bit of back and forth work to get it calibrated absolutely perfectly however.

Very good tutorial. I'm in the process of mounting my LongMill. I wasn't aware of the concept of traming and would have happily overlooked that so thank you for saving me from trouble down thr road. Something troubles me though. Maybe somebody can correct me but it seems to me that the only thing that the router/spindle should be perpendicular to is the CNC working plan created by the XY axes mouvement. It shouldn't matter too much whether the table is aligned with the floor not, as long as it's perfectly flat. Am I missing something?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

JB, congrats on your new longmill! And to answer your question, you are correct, if you have your router and spindle perpendicular to the work plane, you are set to go.

[@mohammadlateef7543]

Nice job sir you can allso use the inner side of the squere by tuching it to the router I think it can do better by decreasing the unlevelled area

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Oh, this is a better way. I'm glad you shared this to so others can read it!

[@jongrace9133]

I'm new to any kind of CNC. I bought the new Genmitsu PROVerXL V2, which came with a 400 watt spindle. Looking at videos most are using routers. I own the Makita router that on the LongMill CNC. Should I change it out for the router. Your video on waste boards, the new V2 already comes with T Track type bed my question is should I add another spoilboard on top of the original. Thanks your videos are very helpful.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Jon, I'm not too sure on this one brother. I'd recommend reaching out to Sainsmart directly and see if the router would be compatible for your machine. You shouldn't need another spoilboard over the top of the t tracks. You could add one, but this will compromise the z height you'll be able to use.

[@jongrace9133]

@@IDCWoodcraft I don't have any problem doing it because they provided the 65mm mount for it. Also, there main Ad shows using one. Will the router be better. I know there is a torque difference. If I add a spoilboard them I'm already reducing the z height. The z height is 4.33". As far as the router verse spindle you see a mix bag so I'm at a loss. So instead of adding a spoilboard I still want to add a grid. When you have all the open tracks due you lose how effective the blue tape method.

[@flashinthepan1965]

I have a new Shark 520, which has a aluminum bed. I would assume I should Tram my spindle to the aluminum bed? and then mount my spoil board and surface it?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Flash, it depends if you're going to use an aluminum bed or spoil board? If you're going to use a spoilboard, you'll want to tram your spindle to your spoilboard.

[@mr.p9882]

Tramming is one of those things noone talks about UNTIL you buy the machine and find it doesn't cut flat. THEN, you find someone like Garrett who talks about it.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Mr. P, how right you are my friend. I'm glad the video was helpful, and you were able to figure out what to do!

[@mattozx6rr]

Exactly cuz the only tramming discussed by longmill is the X and Y axises. Z seems to be the red head stepchild. I used a digital level attached to the router instead of a square. Both work just fine but the digital level allows a bit more accuracy and speed to the adjustment.

[@kidvicious2227]

My problem right now.

[@stephenmarshall9229]

Thank You Garrett

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Stephen, you're welcome!

[@reddsmorris7053]

Good video thank you

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Reddsmorris, you are so welcome my friend.

[@mikesmith7989]

Is it necessary to also tram front and back? Thanks

[@IDCWoodcraft]

mikesmith7989, it depends on your machine brother! For the Longmill, you typically don't need to tram front to back.

[@grahamrankin4725]

Glad you made this.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Hi Graham, I hope it helped

[@barry584]

Thanks Garrett, as usual a very useful video. When I surfaced my spoilboard I found a sawtooth finish across the the board indicating the router is out in the Y axis. I tried adding another washer between the bottom V wheels to change the alignment of the carriage but that didn't make any difference to the 0.008" runout I measure with and indicator when running the z axis up and down. How do you adjust the tramming in the Y axis?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Barry, have you tried installing a shim in the y axis of the router and also making sure that there is no material in the router clamp? Let me know if that helps brother!

[@ronc1231]

What if you removed the router, placed the long level across the bed, lowered the z to the top of the level? The mount for the router is either machined or printed to precisely fit the router, so if it's true, the router should be true as well. Just asking, I've never trammed a machine but I'm about to.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Ron, the main thing that we are adjusting is the router itself. The mechanism that holds the router inherently has some very minor play in it to allow for tram adjustment.

[@ronc1231]

@@IDCWoodcraft I thought the main thing you were adjusting was the bracket that hold the router . My misunderstanding.

[@bubba6945]

I suggest that when anyone assembles their machine to check how parallel of the gantry to the machine work bed then as you add the router mount use the the digital angel finder to check its relative position to the spoil board then surface then install the router and surface the spoil board and if tram is off use a tram arm you can buy or build on your machine to hold the indicator and fine tune the tram as required. tip from the struggling beginner lol

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Brian, Great tip. Thanks for sharing what you learned.

[@mr.p9882]

Actually, attempting to tram mine, x is fine, it is y that is out. I have loosened the screws holding the x/z gantry and attempted to rotate the gantry backwards, and it helped a little. Still out though. Not sure what else I can do...thought about shimming the router in the holder with some card stock or some very thin steel shim stock....

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Mr. P, a steel shim stock is a great idea brother! That should do the trick for you!

[@davidorourke9920]

Garrett there are 4 bolts that secure the motor mount to the Z axes assembly. The Longmill manual tells you to secure them square to the plate during assembly. Would that possibly be the first thing to check? I notice mine is oh so slightly uneven with the edge of the Z axes assembly.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

DavidOrouke, that is a good thing to check brother but it is also very important to check tram as well.

[@tomcollick8111]

Do industrial CNCs need tramming?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Tom, if you assemble it yourself, then yes! But if it comes pre assembled, then typically no. To get the best accuracy out of your machine it is something you should check once you get everything set up.

[@WaterN2WineCreations]

If you needed to adjust it front to back, how would you make that adjustment?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

WaterN2WineCreations, your best bet for that is to loosen the router body and use shims!

[@WaterN2WineCreations]

@@IDCWoodcraft the indicator and a dowel chucked in the router did not work. I used a mount so I could sweep the indicator. It barely touched in front and maxed out in back. I got it to within .004 in a 12 inch sweep, but was using aluminum foil (folded to .010 thickness). I ordered brass shim stock and will get it closer when it comes in. The 1 1/2” surfacing bit was giving a little more than .007 step with each 1.05” pass. I will get this adjusted and start making projects, I promise.

[@TheJonboix]

Thank you

[@IDCWoodcraft]

You're welcome Jonbo

[@booyahhh4642]

Is there a way to tram the front and back?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

booyahhh4642, reach out to sienci on that one brother! They might have some good suggestions on exactly how to do that. Here is a link: sienci.com/contact-us/?ref=idcwoodcraft

[@jwar2163]

Garrett is this spoil board for the new Longmill MK2 ? Will it work with the MK2 48 x 30 sized CNC? I followed the link and the CNC pictured is the Longmill MK 30 x 30 . Just need clarification as I would like to purchase the files.. Thanks

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Jwar, I have the MK2 48 x 30 spoilboard file in the making. The one I have on Etsy right now is for the MK 30 x 30 so you would have to make some adjustments to that file to make it work for your MK2. I'll let you know when that Etsy file is posted!

[@accessiblecruisetravel-dre3383]

I need to adjust the front to back tram. How do I do that?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

accessiblecruisetravel-dre3383, Consider using shims on the router body brother! That should give you the adjustment you need to make sure everything is calibrated perfectly!

[@williamcovell6324]

Right on 👍🌵

[@IDCWoodcraft]

There's my cactus!!!

[@dzee9481]

The other thing to keep in mind is the play in the bearing on these cheap routers. If you have a Spindle you will find that have either 3 or 4 bearings 2 near the Collet and 2 in the back of the spindle. These ensure the accuracy is well with in those tolerances on a router. As for making wood projects the router is more than enough. But to properly tram your machine you would need a straight pisece of hard wood with a 1/4 inch bit mounted in the middle of the hard wood with 2 needle point screws or nails and you mount it on the router such that it can spin. Not the router MUST NOT be plugged in but you bring the router such that the 2 pointed screws just touch the surface of the spoil board. You spin the jig and see if the points hit the spoil board with the same height and if touching the same amount of friction. Where the jig gets stuck you need to adjust the router. You keep doing this till you have hit the 4 corners front back left and right side where the points on the jig are of equal height. Some CNC might have a problem especially if they ride on bearings cause if the bearings on the axis is loose that would cause them to lift.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

D Zee, you bring up some really great points about spindle vs router! Thanks for sharing brother!

[@ohiowalnut]

Where does the word "tram" derive from? I am unaware of its root origin?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

I don't know.

[@DaveParkersonofficial]

Good morning Garrett, you may have heard this question before, so I guess it’s my turn to bother you with it. I saw another video that was explaining that the router should be tram’d to the gantry and not the surface. What’s your thoughts on this?

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Always tram to the table. Not sure what they are thinking unless the gantry can also be trammed to the table after you tram z to it

[@DaveParkersonofficial]

Thank you sir 🙏. It’s a lot more difficult to do. He claims that the X axis movement is based on the gantry and therefore should be aligned accordingly prior to surfacing the waist board. Here’s a link if you want to see what I saw. kzbin.info/www/bejne/amapeHpsd5djoMk

[@TheCNCGuy51]

Actually you should be using either a plate of glass or a piece of tile that you know to be truly flat. I would also set the wide part of my square on the surface, and check for light on the side of your router or spindle. I have 5 machines and this is the process I use when tramming. Use could also use a 1/2" dia. rod known to be true in your router.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Thank you JR. I always appreciate input on my videos, because I I do miss things and I'm not perfect. The good thing is, you shared an awesome tip with the glass. I will remember that and make sure I talk about it in the next tram video I make

[@TheCNCGuy51]

@@IDCWoodcraft You're welcome. I try to pass on to users tips and tricks I've learned over my 16 yrs of designing, building, and using CNCs. No one is perfect, but if I can help someone with my knowledge, I will. By setting the wider part of your square on the glass you won't have to hold the square, thus giving you better control.

[@mp6814]

Great video, thanks. How about this idea: instead of using a square, we have a ½” rod with a flat piece of metal attached to it at exactly 90 degrees. We mount the ½” rod in the chuck, and now are able to rotate the flat part in any direction we need. By doing this close enough to the table, we can use the light test, too. This would be much less prone to human errors once this simple jig is made (it could be 3D-printed!).

[@IDCWoodcraft]

mp6814, great idea brother! Let me know if you end up giving it a try!

[@mp6814]

@@IDCWoodcraft This'll have to wait, no CNC router lives in my abode yet... :-/ Perhaps one day. It's on my list.

[@bubba6945]

the twist in your table and x and y axis must be removed prior to assembly of the z axis router holder and adding the spoil board. so many users do not do this. if your base level (table) is out of wack everything from there will follow and probably be exaggerated as you build your machine

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Brian, thanks brother for the input and helpful tip.

[@alhefner]

Using the body of the router or spindle can introduce even MORE error. Always, always, always, use the collet with a known straight tool chucked into it! Raise the spindle as high as it will go using the machine controls to raise the Z axis, place the longest straight tool you have into the spindle, and chuck it securely. Then, using the appropriately sized precision square, check for plumb and adjust s needed. Tramming the CNC router or spindle is exactly the same as trimming a drill press or other milling machine.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

alhefner, that is a very good point my friend. I can definitely see your perspective on this one.

[@jayyocis8643]

HMMM I would tram the spindle relative to the LongMill not the wasteboard. A angle cube would do well.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Yes, the method is not perfect. But at least it is a method. I will do an indicators tramming video soon.

[@alhum5542]

I have a bit of issue referencing off a newly installed surface for tramming. If the new surface is really out of whack, you might not have enough adjustment travel on the Z- axis. The spindle should be tram to the running edge the v-wheels runs on, both in the X and y axis. This takes how level the table is out of the equation. The second issue is how parallel is the router body to the spindle axis. Tramming should reference to the spindle axis, not the body. The endmill cutting surface should run parallel to the v-wheel running track otherwise on a large sign you might have a flat surface but top and bottom may not be parallel after surfacing. Since I have a metal milling machine, my next project is to build a tramming jig that mounts in the spindle of the router and use dial indicator to tram off the v-wheel running edge.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

alhum5542, That sounds like a great project! Using a tramming jig with a dial indicator will definitely help you achieve precise alignment. By referencing off the v-wheel running edge, you can ensure that the spindle is aligned correctly in both the X and Y axes. This will help you avoid issues with parallelism and achieve accurate results in your woodworking projects. Good luck with your tramming jig build!

[@iwannaapple7190]

I loosened up my screws now I can't get on of them to tighten back.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

iwannaapple, are you sure you didn't strip out your bolts brother?

[@iwannaapple7190]

@@IDCWoodcraft Thanks for asking and thats a good guess and normally that would seem to happen but I was actually loosening and not tightening which would strip it out. When I went to tighten it back it never grabbed a thread too tighten. I didnt have a problem with the other ones. Just that one. Would you happen to know what size that is? Maybe I can locate another one. I might even have to order from longmill. Come to think of it, I don't even know if I can get it out. I kept loosening and loosening and loosening and it just spins. It might have broke in half when I loosened it? Thats my best guess. The other half is broke in the threads which is probably interfering in tightening.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

@@iwannaapple7190 contact the machine maker over this

[@iwannaapple7190]

@@IDCWoodcraft ok. I will today then.

[@bubba6945]

get you a very affordable tool called a digital angle finder and save yourself all the hassle of fiddling with the square save time which is money. or a cheap indicator. you can buy either for less than the price of the bits or spoil board

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Brian, thanks for the info brother. I'll look into those.

[@johnmcclanahan2272]

The first thing you want to do is make sure the square you are using is truly square.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Some things we have to trust.

[@mr.p9882]

The only problem I see here (for me!!) is that using a level may certainly not be correct because my floor is not level in my shop. My table is on wheels also, due to space restraints, so shimming the table is not an option. If I move it, the area I move it to may be less level or more level than the previous spot...LOL, can't win for losing!!!

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Hey Mr. P. We work wioth what we have.

[@Festivejelly]

The machine doesnt need to be level to the ground. Just level to the table its sitting on.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

FestiveJelly, good point brother, ill consider this when I make a future video about this tramming process in more detail.

[@swavydefalty2761]

just me who watches this guy for the joke

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Hey SW. I don't understand what you mean. Please explain

[@swavydefalty2761]

@@IDCWoodcraft i watch you to see the joke at the start if the video, they brighten up my day 😂

[@CncNewb]

My legs in the middle don’t touch my table.

[@IDCWoodcraft]

CncNewb, It sounds like there might be an issue with the measurements or the design. You might want to double-check the leg length and the table height. Ensuring everything is level can also make a big difference!

[@CncNewb]

Do you do one on ones that maybe you can help me get this set up right?

[@CncNewb]

@@IDCWoodcraft I should have been more specific. On my longmill the 2 black middle legs on both sides do not touch my tabletop. I also have issues with small detail where one side touches and carves great but the other side doesn’t touch.

[@paulbergman8228]

At

[@IDCWoodcraft]

Paul, thanks!