How to Troubleshoot a QD Control Box

[@noelmartin504]

By far the best information on the internet and on KZbin. Regarding this subject, I wish you were doing close ups of the procedures for those of us New to this. Please do another video of this with close ups, thanks.

[@cristianbelteu1659]

Just tested my QD controller start capacitor and it is absolutely dead. Explains the problems I have been having. Thank you for this helpful video.

[@RCworstwater]

Glad it helped!

[@leatheljay6509]

What was your problem?

[@phillhuddleston9445]

Thanks, I wasn't sure what was wrong with my well, it wasn't working at all but it turns out the capacitor was bad, no Ohms reading at all, changed the control box and it's working. the capacitor on the new control box has three wires to it but it works, my old one was the exact same as the one you used as an example.

[@RCworstwater]

Happy to hear you were able to get it goin!

[@regansadler4360]

What brand of tester did you use

[@joshneumann7364]

This was very helpful, I was getting an ohm reading of about 20 across the relay and couldn't find a replacement on a Saturday. Just replaced the whole box that's been there for at least 20 years

[@jdman7170]

Thanks! This helped me diagnose a bad capacitor.

[@RCworstwater]

Thanks for watching!

[@cackleberryfarm4598]

Your videos on this subject are GREAT! You explain things VERY well! Thanks!

[@RCworstwater]

Glad you like them!

[@artfarmfennville]

Thank you for these excellent videos.

[@marktrozzi990]

Thanks! Big help. Looks like our capacitor is the problem.

[@estherurrea4140]

Why does my capaserder keep burning out

[@chadepierce]

Very detailed and clear instructions for sure. I'm old and would ask for close ups off the test points. Keep then coming! Thanks very much, Chad

[@devinreese2481]

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[@briggsjaxon8059]

@Devin Reese instablaster ;)

[@devinreese2481]

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[@devinreese2481]

@Briggs Jaxon it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy! Thanks so much, you saved my ass :D

[@briggsjaxon8059]

@Devin Reese glad I could help xD

[@vinnyboywo6571]

Excellent video. It would've nice to see a close-up of the meter display, but your descriptions were sufficient. The only thing I would have really liked to see is what readings should we see if the pressure switch was at cut-out (high level achieved/rest).

[@larrybailey3436]

Thanks your a life saver had a bad relay in my control box!!

[@RCworstwater]

Glad I could help

[@freecycling6687]

Thanks for all the videos you guys have made, they've proved very useful. I have one question after running through the steps in this video. When checking the "cap" and "B" terminals on the triac, my meter started out showing infinity ("0L"), but after about two seconds, the resistance started decreasing, and went down to about 12 megohms. Is this a problem? (And if it is, is there any way to buy just that relay? I got the part no. off of it and searched, but can't find it listed anywhere!)

[@robertmedred3767]

Another problem that can occur is that the contacts on the lid, where the capacitor and relay are attached, may not come into firm contact with the contacts on the box where the wires are connected. Vibration over a period of time could cause enough corrosion on a non-firm contact to stop power from going to the capacitor. I found this out by light banging on the box, and the pump started.

[@RCworstwater]

Good Tip!

[@martinhavens9916]

My well pump quit working yesterday, I'm going out of town I 2 weeks and I have 2,000 gallons stored until I solved problem. I have voltage to the definite purpose connector but no power to the control panel which then goes to the pump. When I manually depress the contact in the dpc. It just hums and their is power to the control panel but tested with the cover off. Suggestions? Thank you for the videos ,they are helpful.

[@hh-rd5uo]

Very well done. I can't believe that you don't have more views. For me you have without a doubt BEST systematic step by step progression how to diagnose issues and I am grateful for your videos....it's making my life so much easier right now :-). By the way to the comment about the wires where you hung the clamp meter. I don't feel you have to explain it because (at least) on my QD franklin box it actually says what wires you need to check for amps. I still haven't resolved my issue but if I do get about 9 amps going to the well then it must be frozen line because everything else checked out well. By the way thank you for explaining in another video how to diagnose the relay and capacitor......you're the only one who did that on youtube as far as I can tell.

[@franmurr374]

Thanks! just what we needed to know, and a few what if's as well.

[@xiantor]

Do voltage check on line 1 to y and b and r and so same to line2

[@tomreynolds4941]

Excellent video. I will scroll through your other videos. Trouble shooting why if I turn on a faucet I'll have pressure sometimes and other times a trickle. I just replaced pressure tank, all the plumbing and pressure control switch. I have the same control box that is in your video. I have a 30/50 pressure switch, I set my tank (32 gallon) to 28 pounds, yet I am still getting a random water pressure from the faucet sometimes steady flow other times a trickle. Any ideas what I should check next? Thanks

[@RCworstwater]

What is happening on your pressure gauge when the water stops? If it is acting erratic then it could be that the pressure switch is clogged and needs to be replaced.

[@billwtsn]

The video is good but how do you check when you have a low pressure cut off pressure switch?

[@richk6827]

Thanks for a really nice set of videos. I got my pump running this morning just by taking the cover off the pressure switch, after shutting off the breaker. I looked at it and didn't see anything wrong, so I put cover back on, closed the breaker, and voila! It started running! What is the make and model of your inexpensive meter? Thanks!

[@juniorbuddie5261]

What does it mean if the voltage doesn't spike back up?

[@jodybateman1657]

What do you turn the voltage meter to when you check each park

[@paulo1149]

Your site and this video have been very helpful. Thanks much.

[@calliber1176]

Nice man your saving lives

[@12mak]

What does it mean if the resistance reading on the capacitors does not show any numbers, just infinite resistance?

[@audiemullarkey9973]

Ok i would like to know your qd box is good but if you got a wire going to the deep well pump that has a short can you bypass some wires to make the pump work.

[@mikecompsci3160]

Heard an extremely loud POP during dinner. The Capacitor in the control box was the popping noise. The capacitor blew apart and is in several pieces in the control box. Why did it blow apart like that? Switched off well pump at the electric box. $125 to replace the capacitor. Hope that is the only thing that needs to be replaced.

[@laverdadesmejor]

I did this test exactly as described and the readings came back showing the capacitor and the relay were in good order, however, the control box was NOT good when placed in service???? Hmmm???

[@CrazyGSPMan]

So if it does nothing at all it’s bad? Right?

[@grindupBaker]

Thanks so I just did those because my well stopped pumping without warning during the present 11 days of non-stop sun and 30 degrees while I'm repairing patio/deck every day with no house water suddenly, after pumping fine through the previous 6 weeks of unusual cloud and masses of rain I could have caught in barrels if I could foretell the future. Please note everybody per 4:07 that C A P stands for "CAP" in case you thought it stood for "CAT" (sorry about that). Is the capacitor a timer ? Is it that there's a transition from longer to shorter windings after start-up timeout ? (Can't be Y-Delta transition because it's 1-phase) ? Or maybe it's capacitive (heat-less) resistance pushing back against the 240V potential, I suppose it's the latter.

[@sheepishmclemmingston5550]

The capacitor is kinda like a different type of battery. Kinda like if you compared a deep cycle 6 volt RV house battery to a Vehicle starting 12 volt. The Deep cycle 6v is meant to provide a nominal amount of current draw at a constant rate over a longer period of time. The 12v Starter is meant to create an In-rush of current, all at once in order to engage the starter motor which in turn has MASSIVE resistance to overcome in the way of needing to turn the flywheel, which rotates the crankshaft, which cycles the pistons, rods, and wrist pins and also rotates the camshaft cycling the rocker arms, lifters and associated valve stems. This all creates massive drag, which in turn equates to resistive force AGAINST the Starter motors bendix (rotating toothed gear that when engaged moves forward and out of starter assembly and engages with its mating with the toothed flywheel of the engine. This whole process( because of the needed energy to engage and move the starter motor, which then turns the bendix as it being the rotor of the starter assembly motor) as well as its need to start all of the integral components I listed prior into motion requires a LARGE current draw. Thus, the 12v starter battery provides what is known as an "In-rush" of amperage. Massive amperes and enough voltage (whatever the system is set up for, on a vehicle its 12v, but for lets say a 48v DC refrigerator condensing unit would be just north of 48v. Likely eight below 50 in all reality) to move the amperage forward. Voltage is like the pressure p.s.i. of a piped water system, and amperage is akin to the flow volume (gallons per minute). A capacitor is the same type of difference between the 12v starter battery and a 6v deep cycle. Where as a battery would be used to get a smaller l, continuous draw of lesser amperage over a period of time, a capacitor is meant to give a "Boost" of in-rushing voltage AND current (amperage) to the designated load. MOST, if not ALL inductive type motors need this type of "kickstart" in order to begin the ROTATION process at startup. Without it, single phase does not have enough "Oomph" to start the "ball rolling" so to say. And will bog down, creating the phenomenon of excessive current draw as it continues its attempt to engage ROTATION of the rotor within the stator, driven by the reversed polarity of the electromagnet created within the windings of the motors. The capacitor is set in line within the circuit of the motor in order to achieve this "kickstart" by providing a "shot" of inrush energy to the motor to get it moving from a dead standstill. Without it, the rotor will fail to rotate within the stator, and instead creating excessive amounts of heat from sitting stationary with energy coursing through the windings yet NOT spinning the rotor, also engaging the cooking fans also attached to that same shaft. This will likely wind up throwing the internal thermal overload shutoff, and further preventing the motor from engaging indefinitely. Hence the NEED for a Starting Capacitor on MOST if not ALL Single Phase, Inductive Motors. Be they 120/240/480 v. ALL require a starting capacitor integrated into their circuit

[@richwarner6376]

My relay is saying 175 ohms between CAP and “B”, what does that mean?

[@user-zs6uy6ew6n]

I dont have water when I turn the well on at the breaker the control box starts to smoke

[@vzNostalgia]

Thank you for your wonderful and informative videos, R.C. Would it be possible to make a video of how to bypass the control box, just to verify that the problem is with the box?

[@RCworstwater]

The control box houses the needed starting components, so there is no way to bypass the box and turn the pump on without it.

[@tjvandenhoek]

I am having an issue where my pump stops after 15 seconds. I have a 1hp qd control box with a pump saver. I removed the pump saver and still have the same results. If I cycle power it turns on and delivers water for 10 to 15 seconds again. I don’t think my well is dry because it continues to deliver water when I cycle. I have tested my pump leads and all seem within spec. I got some weird results originally with my cap, so I ended up just replacing the whole box, still having the same issue. Couple my pump just be old and hitting thermal overload or something?

[@RRaucina]

Better discharge that start cap first! Only way to get the right readings and not to get a bad shock. Always short the terminals between tests because you are loading the capacitor to 9 volts or whatever voltage dc your meter employs.

[@RCworstwater]

Right you are!

[@lancer59]

Thanks for the video. My question is my control box has a Mallory 59mfd Capacitor which I think is bad. The capacitor has three wires coming out of it, a main (B), one going to L2 and one going to number 1 on the relay. Most of the capacitors I see as replacements have 2 wires. Is this normal? The numbers on mine are 275461-108 220VAC. Any help would be appreciated.

[@lancer59]

Just an update, My Franklin Box number is 2301050101 1/2hp, it might be 280 in the front, the tag is really hard to read. Thanks.

[@Travos69]

Well I don't have a clamp on amp meter but I do have a standard meter and so I skinned the wires coming out of the control box and noticed while I had power into the box that I had none coming out. I really hope it's a $80 box and I don't have to pull this pump 400' out of the ground again. 😅

[@chrisking1945]

What if you test L1 by itself would it read 120 and L2 by itself would it read 120

[@markbryan7981]

Would love to see you do this test with a analog meter.... Please

[@RCworstwater]

We'll add it to the list! :)

[@markporden5794]

If you measure the voltage of the yellow, black, and red wires connected to ground coming out of the box what should the values be? Mine is L1 to L2 coming into the box is 243 volts. Coming out of the box with the pump disconnected is Black to ground 114 volts, yellow to ground 108 volts, and Red to ground is about 2.5 volts.

[@RCworstwater]

All of those numbers look good. The red wire is only energized for a split second to start the pump, then it runs off the yellow and black.

[@mrnascar9129]

Have you ever done videos on grundfus pumps?

[@stevengallegos7286]

Mine shows .5 from B to LI. That means its bad?

[@timothyroberts80]

My capacitor stop reading at 38.1. Does that mean it needs replaced we’re getting constant water but barely coming out.

[@RCworstwater]

If the pump is starting then the capacitor is likely fine. Check out our other troubleshooting videos or give us a call: 855.329.4519

[@danabugg2750]

We replaced the fuse in the box, but now its sparking. Why?

[@spyadagani]

I want to know if i can add an additional relay to this QD control box which can be activated by an irrigation controller? Thanks.

[@RCworstwater]

You sure can. Make sure the relay is rated for the amperage of your pump if you don't intend on using a separate contactor.

[@robertm2663]

My well pump was running unreliably, and I finally discovered that the L2 contacts between the rear and front cover was misaligned. It was not a secure connection and was shorting and heating up even though the pump still got power.

[@DuraTex556]

What were the symptoms of your pump when this was occurring?

[@emadabdulrahman9234]

Thank you 🌹

[@RCworstwater]

You’re welcome 😊

[@richdavis100]

My capacitor has a spec range of 86-103uF, but only measures 20 to 50 variably, and was leaking oil. Problem was the line circuit breaker trips after about 10 sec. Does it sound like the problem is the capacitor in my QD control box?

[@RCworstwater]

Leaking oil is a dead giveaway the cap is bad and needs replaced.

[@TraumaChaplain]

If the white dot is bulging, us that indicative of failure or normal?

[@RCworstwater]

Any bulging or leakage indicates a failed capacitor.

[@davidjackson9689]

So if my little button type thing on my capacitor turns yellow, it's bad ??

[@RCworstwater]

More than likely, yes.

[@rlrettino]

How do you trouble shoot if you are not getting any voltage to the QD control box?

[@RbgrosEn]

Hi there how you doing I have the same issue I don't have any voltage coming to control box. What do you do. Did you found de issue?

[@axelhischer6926]

When I test the compassitor my meter goes from OL TO 00.0 AND STAYS THERE METER IS SET ON 200K OHM IS THAT the right reading. I should have? The problem I'm having is no water psi really. My pump keeps turning on an off on and off?

[@RCworstwater]

Please give us a call for help troubleshooting: 855.329.4519

[@shanek6582]

My well breaker in the main breaker box keeps kicking, sometimes a couple times a day, sometimes only once, I ordered a new control box but it’s not here yet, could it be as simple as changing the box out or is there another possibility? The water works fine, same pressure and all, it just kicks the breaker, thanks 🙏 for any advice.

[@RCworstwater]

There are a number of things it could be such as sediment buildup in the pump, a knick in the wire, old motor, etc. If the new control box does not solve the issue give us a call: 855.329.4519

[@shanek6582]

R.C. Worst & Co., Inc., thanks so very much sir.

[@Reynol0520]

How do you know what terminal to wire when replacing a capacitor?

[@snoopdogie187]

Late reply, but a capacitor isn't directional. One two terminal capacitors, you just connect them. When you get to specialty capacitors, which a/c units with more terminals, then you have to pay attention. Generally those are 2 capacitors in one package, and will have markings on them.

[@MrMichigan]

Now what if I have checked my microferrads and its higher than what the capacitor states. What does that mean?

[@RCworstwater]

What reading did you get and what's the rating on the capacitor?

[@MrMichigan]

@@RCworstwater the rating was 83-158 I believe and I was getting around 230 microferrads.

[@SergioGonzalez-tf9kq]

Number of Capacitor?

[@jasoncassidy2517]

Do all well pump systems have a control box?

[@RCworstwater]

2-wire pumps do not, learn more here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmfSgIJ5gK-ajck

[@JC-so4ey]

he pvc about 5 inch from the ground is leaking how do i stop the water from coming out of the well so I can glue new pip

[@RCworstwater]

Turn the power off to it

[@JC-so4ey]

power is off its like a artesian well is 3 inch going in ground with 1 inch inside of it

[@RCworstwater]

@@JC-so4ey You'll need to call an excavator or someone to come out and plug the pipe and install a valve so you can shut the water off and repair the pipe.

[@JC-so4ey]

can not plug my well would not have any water and no valve have to have 1 inch pipe going in to well would a rubber no hub couplingor any glue for running waterthank u

[@kyle2kmaxima]

im still trying to figure out why some systems have just a pressure switch... and other systems have both a pressure switch and a control box..

[@RCworstwater]

2-Wire (+ground) pumps have all of the starting components located within the motor. 3-wire (+ ground) pumps DO NOT have the starting components in them, instead they are housed in the control box for easier maintenance should they fail. With 2-wire pumps, if any of the starting components fail you have to pull the pump. They are also limited to 1.5 HP, anything large would be 3-wire and require a control box.

[@phillhuddleston9445]

A control box in your home is easier to get to than a pump motor 350 feet underground.

[@ShawnCrowley]

Should of waited for the capacitor holding a charge comment before starting lol ouch

[@mikecope5727]

3 wire pumps require a start cap hence the 3rd wire. 2 wire pumps do not need a need a cap or relay.

[@robertbrawley5048]

You could improve your instructional videos by filling the viewfinder with the control device with out the inclusion of the guy. And the camera is not even focused

[@RCworstwater]

Thanks for the suggestions. We will be working on better camera shots in our future videos.

[@robertbrawley5048]

@@RCworstwater I look forward to more close ups of the subject at hand

[@3dfossils]

Not done very well give it a70

[@RCworstwater]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@3dfossils]

R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. ya man everything was done well except you didnt take the time to explain were you were touching your probes or what wires you hung the meter on for amps. Dont you think people need to know those things?