How to turn a mega flow into a full siphon.

125 gallon reef ready RR aquarium fish tank megaflow overflows converting from durso to bean animal herbie with over the back return using full siphon open channel no emergency standpipe

[@nicholasmatassa4684]

I inhereted a 120 with this drain set up and was at a loss as to how to plumb it. Thank you so much for this!

[@johnterpack3940]

I've been wanting to rework the overflow and return system on our 75g almost since we got it. For some reason, it never occurred to me that I could use both holes as drains and run the return over the back. Brilliant.

[@NinjaSushi2]

Heh

[@muffemod]

This is what most people SHOULD be doing with their megaflow setups and then return over the back. Well done.

[@BenOchart]

Great and easy to understand video. I have a large (150 gal) tank with sump in our bedroom and the durso probably saved my marriage just for noise reduction, LOL! I did a similar video dispelling the myths of sumps. Almost impossible to flood when dialed in. Thanks!

[@SHIZZILANILLA]

I think i will be copying this setup . Very simple and effective . Thanks for the demonstration .

[@reisingsreef3527]

Popping in to give a quick thanks and thumbs up. I used this video as the guide for plumbing my new 125 with mega’s. Dead quiet, amazing flexibility and peace of mind with the added drain lines. I inherited a Jebao DCT12000 with this tank and it can handle that at full blast if I wanted to run the Mississippi through my sump. Thanks for the great visual reference and demo 👍🏼

[@williamwiese9963]

I bought a very nice and clean 120 with a 20 sump and it came with the previous plumbing, so now I know why there's a hole drilled into the supply line going into the sump. Thank you so much!

[@tycoon6661]

Hello, my friend! I've seen a lot of samps and systems. Yours is just perfect. Like 👍

[@ibepressin]

Absolutely fantastic video. This is exactly what I'm going to do on my 180 (with all 1'' drains) Thank you so much for making this video!

[@davidt7910]

Simple and effective I think I'm going to do this with my 75 gallon megaflow thanks a lot that was very helpful👍

[@danielnorman531]

Finally a video with the info i was looking for. Informative and simple great work man.

[@chervaunbryan479]

Wow i don’t ever see this flooding i love it you have made me feel safe with sumps

[@pgxtinction]

Phenomenal explanation and demonstration.... thank you!

[@bassicaudio27]

I have this same tank and will definitely convert it to this system. Very nice work.

[@123klaas]

Great system, thanks for the clear demonstration!

[@jessejohnson529]

I found this incredible helpful and am going to try it in my new 125 tank. The plumbing kit that comes with this tank is so LOUD! All the air that gets into the Durso does a lot of gurgling in the sump, like it needs a breather down below (but I'm not about to do one of those). I think this will significantly quieten my system.

[@paulmurray3837]

Nice setup. Thanks for sharing.

[@nobrainsnoheadache2434]

This was a great video, glad you posted it, I think I might use this idea a bit on my new 90

[@davidmichael3137]

Great video, I love the design

[@jeffkeith1198]

This system is very similar to what I manufacturer Put some syphon breaker holes in the returns, below the waterline on the inside of the aquarium. Make sure you drill the holes so they neither on the bottom of the pipe or shooting water above the surface. This way the nozzles can be trained in any direction and plumbed to any level.

[@bmac_1691]

Really nice job on this!

[@muffemod]

It's amazing that most people don't do this with their setup.

[@-8_8-]

It's pretty cool. Why does one do this instead of the factory tubing?

[@muffemod]

@@-8_8- It's more quiet, actually completely silent. It's safer than a traditional factory setup, in case of blockage.

[@-8_8-]

@@muffemod it seems to kind of defeat the purpose of a drilled tank with that giant tube coming over the back of it. But I guess worrying about clogs is a big deal in some set ups. I do have weird problems where the side hole on the factory durso act as my drain hole instead of the open 90 with the cage on it. Which I think is for sound mitigation, but I think I might have to plug it and do the Dan hershaw air shut off valve out of the top.

[@HotdogbaconHotdogbacon]

Good informational video. Thanks

[@ScottM]

Really nice video and information. I subbed your channel.

[@DeeFromBrooklyn]

Good Video. Nice set up. Mark the valves and re-tuning is a breeze

[@t.lledsmar6052]

Better yet, add a ball valve in series for service shutoff.

[@ManCaveReef]

nice setup.

[@bhen2753]

wow very cool setup. Wish you were my neighbor so i could check this out! lol

[@hotelaccounting4217]

Great video! Have a 125 that am going the same route with, but will use the two 3/4 returns as the siphons since they should be about 1500 gph combined. And the two 1" should gravity feed any extra needed. Was planning on a Jabao dcp-6500. Considering you used the 1"er's for siphon was wondering how much your valves dialed back the flow...

[@xflamezz174]

Amazing video.

[@tylersfishtanks1799]

nice setup subbed

[@robertsesny7171]

This setup is amazing--Any chance you could take a beter shot of the return lines to the tank? Just trying to source the PVC for the return from the pump and looking at the back of the pipe it is hard to tell. Great work

[@uletek1]

Great setup. How did you determine the height of your siphon pvc?

[@green3760]

Great video, thanks. Whats the tank look like now?

[@kevinrobson444]

I copied this for my 535 lt. marine tank and I turnover more than 4000 litres per hour (via twin Aqua Medic Eco Runner 6000 pumps . It is now TOTALLY silent and restores quickly after power cut. My tank uses 40mm piping and gate valve, but apart from that the setup is the same. Takes a little bit of trial and error to get the perfect result. Start with balancing the flow with the valve then adjust the height of your overflow pipe to get the best results. It's really weird that the tank makes NO sound and the loudest sound in the lounge is the ticking of a clock!

[@teeboaquatics4011]

Like a boss!

[@j.w.7579]

I'm doing the same thing with my 210 gallon except that the one inch full flow drains on mine have 1 1/4" normally closed electric solenoid valves that stay open for water flow when energized and close if there is a power failure. They are saltwater and acid rated with a 100% duty cycle. I used 1 1/4" valves to match the flow specs for one inch PVC since the valve's internal construction causes a little flow loss. The 1 1/4" valves are CPVC construction with stainless steel components. None of the stainless steel internal components come in contact with the saltwater because of the way they were designed. They are a little pricey but to me they were worth the added insurance.

[@WoodBob]

So almost like an electronic version of a "check" valve except it closes with no power. I do like the idea in concept, but would not rely on it for flood control. Like a check-valve and the reason they fail is marine growth within the valve. When/if the time comes that you need this to close because power went out, you may find that it doesn't seal all the way.

[@NinjaSushi2]

I will have to try this with my 75G.

[@jackdunn5147]

I like your design, the only concern I would have would be something that could clog those small air holes you have on the overflows. Snails or algae could clog that and prevent proper draining.

[@badmotherhumper]

your sump has a dead area with the spillway on the top. Kudos on the spray bar tho. good build

[@peter220nyc]

I'm thinking of doing this as it looks great can you tell me the measurements you have for the piping. thx

[@amosskyline6034]

I have a 8ftx2ftx2ft and plan on using this idea, Im thinking 2x 32mm overflows one full siphon and one open channel what would be a good lph pump for that number

[@wrath6647]

I recently got a 112g aquarium with dual overflow towers and my plan for plumbing it was going to use the bean animal method by plumbing the two towers together. One tower would house an emergency along with a durso overflow while the other tower would have the full siphon. I'm tempted to copy your set up however.

[@WoodBob]

I also considered that design but my fear was not enough water in the open channel drain to keep that tower from becoming stagnant. And if running the full siphon in one and the open channel in the other it would be a lot harder to get the drains balanced.

[@wrath6647]

robc The rest of my fittings are coming next weekend but I'm going to try connecting the two towers with a full siphon on one side while the open/emergency overflows in the other tower. I'll give it a try and I figure worst case scenario I can just close the valve between the two towers, add the needed hole for another overflow and then go with your method. I'll let you know how it goes. ;)

[@Atpnyc]

Good video

[@craftcolors]

Thank you! I'll be duplicating that!

[@1ReviewGuy]

Another question for ya Bob. In your sump does the first glass baffles after where your drains come in go all the way to the bottom of sump so water has to go over or do you have the glass baffles raised a little? And then the last glass baffles does it go to the bottom as well? Lastly the gate valves on the overflow pipe is it absolutely needed or can I just plumb it directly into sump? Thanks!

[@WoodBob]

I do not have any path under the baffles or a bubble trap. I have 3 separate compartments and water flows only over those baffles. You do not need any valve on the overflow pipe. I have it only for maintenance. The full siphon does need a valve though.

[@crawford813]

This is a great set-up (and a very well done video) and I think I will do the same with my 90 gallon. Thank you! One question though, do you find you have to top-off your sump frequently due to evaporation? The last chamber in your sump (where the return pump is) is necessarily small (so you don't flood your display tank in the event of a drain clog), but I'm concerned that evaporation loss would mean you were constantly topping off the sump.

[@WoodBob]

I have an ATO (auto top off) unit (Tunze) that keeps it in check. This tank loses 1-2 gallons per day in evaporation.

[@richardportelli1983]

Very very clever

[@jc49fishniner4lif7]

wow amazing

[@TheDlacey31]

I have to jebao 12000 on the same tank.... how much flow will two 3/4” full siphons be? I’d rather just keep my 1” mega flows how they are and just modify the 3/4” returns to become full siphons. Thank you sir

[@A.R.C.77]

The weirs is one place water will never become stagnant

[@danleehill]

that is cool

[@t.lledsmar6052]

You can avoid any chance of getting dry running pump by adding a float switch. Being that you have a dc pump, a boat bilge switch can be wired right in.

[@WoodBob]

That is a great idea thanks! That Jebao pump failed I am back to my reliable eheim.

[@ricksliny]

Could the two drain lines be joined in a tee for a sump with 3 inputs? Or would this interfere with tuning each overflow via the gate valves? Seems like they will have minimal flow and if the sump water can’t overflow the tank it should be safe. So it’s just a matter of doing so would still allow each overflow siphon to find a level.

[@WoodBob]

The 2 full siphon drains could not because they run at full siphon unless you tee'd them into a drain that could handle the flow. The trickle/open channel drains could with no issues.

[@slothbowyer3926]

You could use this method with a single overflow right??

[@paulortman3584]

Do you have a parts list for some of the items in your plumbing?

[@michaeldomingos-idtbd8711]

Hey Bob, another one here - You have gate valves on both the Full Siphon & overflow siphon on each side. You mentioned that the overflow siphon valve is just there to turn off/on if needed. So in that case do we even need a valve on it or can it be an open pipe right into the emergency section of the sump? Does that valve you have on it now serve any other tuning capability or simply just on/off?

[@WoodBob]

Nope it is totally unnecessary.

[@corysanceciz1488]

I've been researching Herbie overflows, and even did one, but I'm having trouble understanding the "open channel". Is it completely empty as if it was an emergency drain in a standard Herbie?

[@WoodBob]

The open channel exists because it isn't possible to maintain a full-siphon without a little water running into another pipe to even (tune) things out. There will always be a little water trickling into the open channel.

[@1ReviewGuy]

Morning Bob. So I have my tank running for couple days and notice aome things and want to see what you think. I have a little stream a water coming out of the emergency drains is this normal to have and if so does that pipe go into the sump below water line so it's quiet. Also I have my flow pretty High I think which I kind of want because I have random flow generators on my returns and want those to create flow, but since flow is high I have a little more noise coming from my overflows but it's simply because of that fast flow. What do you think? I habe the mdp-15000 pump which I know you don't like but have it cranked up to 75 out of 100. This is on a 220 gallon tank with 4 large 1" returns and a 1-1/4" return feed pipe to those returns.

[@WoodBob]

Yes this is fine because it is not an emergency drain it is the open channel used to balance the full siphon. There is no way to keep a full siphon going exactly so some water must trickle through the open channel. I have mine just below the water level into the sump so it is silent. If the noise is from the weir it is probably just the drop from water running into the weir. There isn't much you can do about that accept maybe raise your open channel stand-pipe as far as it will go (and still be 1/2 under water). Sounds like it is working great! 🙂

[@g2delena]

Also add a simple mechanical float switch that would kill the return pump if the water level falls too low. Would save your return pump from burning up.

[@WoodBob]

This is a good idea. But not sure how this could be incorporated to actually electrically disable the pump. The Tunze includes 2 float switches for normal operations. I'll investigate a float switch that can cut power to the entire mechanism. Thanks!

[@jeremykerber9781]

I just acquired a 75g with a megaflow. Do you keep the 1inch fully open and tune the 3/4? Or the other way around?

[@WoodBob]

I use the 1" as the full siphon but it doesn't matter you could use either one. Just remember the full siphon stand pipe needs to be lower than the open channel so the extra water slowly rises up and trickles down the open channel.

[@JimMcPherson1]

Hello WoodBob. I have the same exact tank and am getting ready to do the plumbing as you have designed here. The sump I have chosen has two inputs that go through the filter socks and a third that can be configured. My plan is to have each siphon feed the filter socks. Can I combine the plumbing of the open channels, since they are "trickling" compared to the siphons, into a single drain without impacting performance? TIA

[@WoodBob]

Yes that is a great idea!

[@gino.from.chicago]

I’m upgrading to my first tank I’ll have to actually plumb - coming from a Red Sea. My question is what - do the full siphon is the primary drain correct? Well what’s the secondary/open channel for? Also, do you use a lid with the way you built that HOB return line? Awesome video thanks a lot! God bless!

[@WoodBob]

Thanks for the kind comments! The open channel is needed because it isn't possible to keep exactly the right amount of water for a full siphon to work continuously. The remedy is to return slightly more water than the full siphon can flow and have the extra water go into the open channel. The open channel is "variable" so it will work with the little extra you'll need to keep the full siphon happy and any variance that your pump may have.

[@chrisemata18]

Wow!!

[@fishrrelaxing9361]

Hope you’re still monitoring this old video.. I just picked up the exact same tank second hand and was not happy w the small holes and thinking of doing exactly this. My question is.. what gph are you running after head and how much room is left on your valves? Sounds like you’re running them around 60-65% open. I’m asking cause I’m looking to run around 1450-1600 after head and still not sure it can be done. I’ll be running the bigger dct8000 pump with 1-1/4” hose so I’ll have way less head then what it looks like you’ve got. I was also toying with running one size larger pipes into reducer at bulkhead which should help some

[@WoodBob]

Yes this is just about exactly what the flow rate I calculated. Around 700-800gph per side so ~1500 total. To this date I have yet to have a single issue with the setup it is rock solid. WIth the 8000 you could run more flow there is definitely room left in the valves. I have thought about reversing the pipes actually and using the smaller for the full siphon and the larger for the open channel but it is just running flawlessly that it is not a huge priority. If I had to do it again that is probably what I would do. I don't like running with the full siphon valves cranked so far closed since I had a clownfish that ended up jumping into the overflow and getting stuck in the partially opened valve. On this tank I do occasionally find a fish in the filter socks I am not sure how they get there since I have covers on the weirs! I have actually found fish in the ATO reservoir! That is one lucky fish to have jumped out of the tank and ended up exactly in the ATO tank!

[@fishrrelaxing9361]

robc thanks for the response. I did the math and wasn’t looking like I would achieve that much flow going reverse like your saying but it’s hard to calculate the overflow amounts unless your a rocket scientist who knows plumbing lol. That’s crazy about the clown loaches though.. mine rarely leave the substrate and even then maybe mid tank at best.. although I do have them in a cichlid tank with some predator haps swimming up top which might deter them from swimming up that high lol. One more question as I had to reseal this entire tank as it bowed so bad it broke the seals at the middle between the front pane and the bottom glass. I should’ve broke it completely apart and rebuilt but half assed it. I filled it with water let it sit for 7 day’s and it never leaked but I was getting 3/16-1/4” bow across the front and back panes. This is the deepest tank this size I’ve ever had and I know they will bend due to the water pressure but not sure if mine is still more then it should be. If you don’t mind could you put a straight edge across yours and tell me how much bow you’re getting? I’m trying to figure out if I’m ok to run this a couple years as is or if I actually need to (know I should but....) tear it completely down and rebuild the entire tank.

[@kgollehon]

What are you going to do for top off? Are you going to have a reservoir? Just curious because if all 4 drains do some how clog, don’t see it happening, and your return section becomes dry, won’t the ATO empty itself?

[@WoodBob]

I do have an ATO (Tunze) and have tested with it. Even when it is full (5 gallons) there isn't enough water to flood the top tank.

[@gino.from.chicago]

So I messaged you last year and I think I’m ready to upgrade! Looking at the 180 or 210! Couple questions - what size tank are you using for the sump - what would you suggest for a 180 or 210? I want a big section for a fuge and section for a skimmer, even though I rarely turn mine on, and a dual manifold for my uv and reactor. Also, what size pvc are you using? First time I’ll be actually plumbing a tank. How soon could I leak test once glued? Thanks again! Wish you lived in Chicago I’d pay you to set mine up haha

[@WoodBob]

Hey @Gino. I use a 40 gallon breeder for the sump. This is primarily because they go on sale at Petco for $1/gallon. For your tank that would work or you could try to source a 75 gallon. I had custom glass cut which was $15/piece. Glass, like everything else, has probably gone up. That PVC is 3/4" and 1". For the PVC usually you can test/use in 1/2 an hour. Check instructions on your PVC glue can as different glues have different wait times.

[@theaquariumhobbyist2326]

Would a check valve on the return pipe toward the top eliminate the possibility of the return becoming a full siphon in case one of the u-lines got knocked down?

[@WoodBob]

Eliminate is subjective! Theoretically, it could. But I don't like relying on anything that could fail. Check valves are highly unreliable in an aquarium environment especially a saltwater setup. The easiest way to prevent a siphon is to drill a hole just beneath the water surface on the return line which will break the siphon once exposed to the air. On my setup the returns are just under the surface and my sump tank can take anything that would siphon down until the tips are exposed and the siphon breaks.

[@cbh3571]

What fitting did you say you don’t need for the 3/4 open channel where you drilled the hole?

[@WoodBob]

Use slip (glue) connection bulkheads and simply set the drains into place without gluing. This allows for easy removal for maintenance. I use keg lube on all gaskets just be sure not to over-tighten (hand tight only).

[@russellkeith3193]

how did you hook up drains & returns to bulkheads thx you

[@WoodBob]

On the bottom of the bulkheads is a threaded connection (slip would also be fine) and in the weir the drains are simply set in place. They do not need to be water tight in the weir but coming out of the bottom, they do.

[@superpokebanger3962]

Running this setup without emergency drain will only prevent flooding if you don't run auto top off folks, unless you are manually topping it off.

[@WoodBob]

Partially true. Most auto top offs will stop after running 2-3 minutes. This tank uses the Tunze Osmolator which will shut off after it runs too long. It will not overflow the tank in my configuration. It is all about good design.

[@derekramsey9248]

I'm want to plumb my 125 the same. I'm ordering 1" ABS bulkheads for the large drains and 3/4" bulkheads for the small drains. What size pipe did you use for these? Anything holding them in the bulkhead like a rubber seal?

[@WoodBob]

The 1" and 3/4" pipes in the overflow compartments are just sitting in the bulkhead. The large one is sitting in friction fit and the smaller one is sitting friction fit in a threaded to slip adapter. At the time I could not get a slip to slip bulkhead so I got a slip to threaded and use that adapter. It is not necessary to attach these as they do not need to be water tight and you want to be able to remove them easily for maintenance.

[@derekramsey9248]

Do you remember the overall height you made both drains including the elbows or does it just need to be close?

[@WoodBob]

It doesn't matter. The open channel (smaller one) just needs to be higher than the larger one (full siphon) so that it will slowly drift up to it. When your pump is off, the level of the lower pipe will be where the water drains down to though.

[@rameshrajamohan6383]

Very impressive setup and instructions. Can I do this setup for a 225 Gallon tank?

[@WoodBob]

Yes. Any tank with built-in overflows will benefit from this setup.

[@michaeldomingos-idtbd8711]

Hey Bob does it matter on which side inside each overflow the full vs. emergency siphon is on?

[@WoodBob]

It doesn't matter other than if one of your holes is larger like mine, I suggest making that your full siphon.

[@michaeldomingos-idtbd8711]

Ok ya both holes take 1" plumbing in them in each overflow so it doesn't matter then if I pull the full siphon in each overflow on the left or right side correct? I ask because it helps with routing the plumbing. Thanks!@@WoodBob

[@WoodBob]

Yep - whatever makes it easier to plumb.

[@bigmike9830]

Hey , Great video.. question: where did you get your shut off valves from and also your connectors?

[@WoodBob]

The PVC gate valves and compression fittings from Amazon and the rest from Home Depot.

[@bigmike9830]

@@WoodBob thank you! I couldn’t find the valves at first. I left out the (gate) parts😃 thanks a lot.

[@michaeldomingos-idtbd8711]

Hey Bob here's another question. Wanted to know why you didn't put any type of Strainer screen or something over the Siphon holes to prevent snails etc. from getting into the plumbing? I'm trying to decide if using one would be a good idea. Thanks!

[@1ReviewGuy]

Sorry I meant a strainer cover over the actual siphon plumbing. Not a cover over the overflow housing.

[@WoodBob]

This is a good question Mike! I did have a cover over each weir which prevented fish from jumping in. But there was probably room for a snail to get through the cracks. My snails were all too big to get into those cracks. It is not a bad idea though.

[@WoodBob]

Yep - same thing. I see no issues putting a strainer on the siphon openings.

[@keithphelps8465]

I just bought a 180 gallon tank with a single overflow. 2 bulkhead in the overflow, a 1 inch and a 2 inch. Up til watching this video, I was planning on running a die so in the 2 inch and a single return in the 1 inch split into 2 lock lines. My return chamber doesn't have cut-outs for return (lock) lines. I was trying to figure out the best way to plumb this. Now that I've watched this, I'm thinking my best option is to go with a full siphon setup like yours and running my return behind the tank as you've done and over the back rim. Would this in fact be a better option with a single overflow?

[@WoodBob]

For sure a full siphon is a better option! Over the back returns are much better and allow greater placement of return flow like I did with multiple returns across the top.

[@keithphelps8465]

How would you handle the 1 inch and 2 inch bulkhead in the overflow? Would you step the 2 inch down to a 1 inch at the bulkhead to keep all pvc 1 inch?

[@WoodBob]

No it doesn't really matter what size the pipe is as long as it fits the fittings. The bulkhead holes will dictate what size pipe to use I suggest not changing the size but I doubt it matters either way. I know there is a durso video out that talks about using bigger size pipe and necking it down but this is a full siphon so it doesn't matter if the pipe changes size or not.

[@3051buckmaster]

Super video! I am running a 125 double corner flow in my barn. I don’t care about water noise. Is there any other reason than noise that straight downtubes to the sump wouldn’t work in lieu of the siphon 180’s?

[@WoodBob]

The main design advantage of running at full siphon is increased flow through the sump. That it is also whisper quiet is really just an added benefit.

[@3051buckmaster]

@@WoodBob Thanks for the reply. Do you adjust the level with the full siphon gate valves?

[@WoodBob]

Correct. Get it going at full siphon, then slowly close the full siphon gate valve until the water rises to the open channel and just barely trickles. The open channel gate valves are not needed during normal operation I have them strictly for maintenance reasons.

[@Atpnyc]

How does the full siphon re establish if it drains below the opening. Wouldnt air get stuck in it?

[@WoodBob]

The siphon is fully automatic since it relies on water being pumped up into the tank. There is no real "starting" of the siphon. As soon as the flow starts, the siphon starts. When it starts, any air is pushed out. If the water should fall below the full siphon stand-pipe (like if the pipe loses flow for whatever reason), water will still drain (slower flow) until the water level gets above the siphon again and then the siphon starts. This process will repeat in a "flush" cycle until the return water volume is increased or the full siphon drain rate is decreased (with the valve). You will frequently see this flush effect in Durso style drains when people push too much return water in an attempt to get higher flow.

[@kimpapka3941]

Do you have how to plans on building this? it really cool and I would like to do this to our 120 Aqueon tank.

[@WoodBob]

Sorry Kim I don't have any plans other than this video. Really it is just plumbing though. As long as you are close to this design everything should work great.

[@jonathansimpson1106]

Nice plumb job! I just got a 130 gallon aquarium recently with dual durso over flows and my bulkheads on the stand pipes are broken. Where can I find those bulks' and what two sizes should I get for drain and return? I'm new to this. Great video

[@WoodBob]

Bulk Reef Supply has all the bulkheads. You measure the diameter of the holes and match it up with what they sell. Make sure to get slip connections as threaded usually leak.

[@drewlong77]

Great video! Question...I'm going to do this to my 90 as well..what happens if the the full siphon clogs? The other drain becomes full siphon? I got new bulkheads to fit for Both my drains to be 1"..is that ok? (Both holes in bottom of tank are same size, apparently they didnt used to be in older models)

[@WoodBob]

If just 1 full siphon clogged, it is possible that the open channel would go full siphon. I don't think it would carry the load though but the other open channel might be able to take up the slack in that scenario. But the design doesn't depend on this for safety (from flooding). I'll have to experiment with this and see what it does thanks for the idea!

[@drewlong77]

@@WoodBob Thanks! just asking because I'm going to do this with only one overflow, but I guess it doesnt matter what the 2nd drain does because compared to the durso single drain it came with..its much safer just to have a second drain at all.

[@WoodBob]

Ah ok - I see part 2 of your question. With just 2 holes both being 1", if the full siphon of the 2 failed, the other might go full siphon but it would not be able to carry all the load due to not having an open channel. In this case it would probably flush until you realized something was wrong and corrected it.

[@leftyleft8424]

Forgot to ask what is the gph return rate with this setup? I have 4 - 1" bulkheads. did you start with the same setup and just reduced 2 bulkheads? I am looking to have around 600 gph. Would you suggest I reduce 2 of my bulkheads? Sorry for the many questions. Thanks again for the great video!

[@WoodBob]

My return is a Jebao DC-6000 which does around 1500gph (minus head). I think I am probably somewhere around 1200gph or so. That is right around 600gph per full siphon drain, of which I have 2. I have 4 bulkheads. 2 in each overflow. If you have 4 bulkheads like mine, I suggest using all 4. 1 pair as a siphon/open channel for each overflow.

[@leftyleft8424]

robc Great. I just want to make sure my 155 gallon was ok for 3/4 and 1" pvc. I am doing the exact same set up

[@peter220nyc]

I'm also looking to do the same but i have a 55gal tank and i'm just starting new. I will be just setting up 1 overflow as a siphon/open channel is that ok for now?

[@jkpisces]

with an overflow system like this , is the suction strong enough generated by the siphon effect due to the overflow water?

[@WoodBob]

Strong enough for what? The flow rate for this setup is very high about as high as you can get for these sized pipes.

[@jimmiewad]

just curious? did you have a problem with your evaporation rate in your sump? where does the water level drop? it seems like the last chamber, where the pump.

[@WoodBob]

Yes, I lose about 2-3 gallons a day to evaporation. I have an ATO (Auto-top-off) on the tank (Tunze Osmolator). I plan on making a new video that shows this setup is still safe/flood-proof using the safeguards built into the Tunze to prevent too much water from being added to the tank in the event of a blockage.

[@Tim_Mcleod]

Hi Bob - I realize this is several years old, but wondering how the Jebao pump is holding up in your system. Too, why did you modify the Megaflow/Durso to a Herbie, were you not getting enough drain GPH? I am setting up a 210 that has the megaflow system and if I'm calculating the flow correctly, with the two drains I should have more than enough to support turning the tank 10x per hour. Just curious, but I do like your modification and would definitely use it if needed, ~Tim

[@closewatcher8586]

The Jebao has failed along with every single other Jabao product I owned (pumps, wave makers, etc). I replaced it with the bulletproof Eheim and will never purchase Jebao again. The conversion was done primarily for noise control. The Herbie is dead silent. But add to that the increased flow from going full siphon and it's a big win. Thanks Tim good luck!

[@Tim_Mcleod]

Thank you. What GPH Eheim are you running with this setup

[@closewatcher8586]

The 1262 ~ 900gph.

[@Seanmmvi]

Is there any concern with detritus building up at the bottom of the overflow towers?

[@WoodBob]

I have never had that issue. The weir towers themselves have multiple inputs at the bottom, middle and top. That keeps the water in the weir circulating. If it did though, it would be fairly easy to vacuum out.

[@leftyleft8424]

can you provide a list of parts used? I see the 2 main drains & return are 1" and the siphons are 3/4". Size of the gate valves etc. thanks for the great video!

[@WoodBob]

I always suggest getting 2-3x what you think you will need and return what you don't use. It is better than making multiple trips to Home Depot. The compression fittings and PVC gate valves I got from Amazon as Home Depot doesn't always have them. The loc-line came from bulkreefsupply. Always get slip (glue) over threaded. Threaded almost always leaks and is not worth the hassle IMO. Finding the right fittings to match your return pump can be a challenge. Sometimes they come with what you need but if not, take the pump to Home Depot to match slip x slip bulkheads - match your holes - bulkreefsupply has these 2x1" gate valve 2x3/4" gate valve 2x1" PVC compression fitting 2x3/4" PVC compression fitting 3/4" elbows (45 and 90) 1" elbows (45 and 90) 4x 3/4" Loc-Line Modular Hose (6 segments) 4x NPT Connector for 3/4" Loc-Line Modular Hose 4x Flare Nozzle for 3/4" Loc-Line Modular Hose 4x slip to 3/4" NPT fittings (returns for lock-line to screw into) PVC Strapping (to hold pipes up)

[@joeymerrell8585]

robc it's not a complete project without at least 3 trips to home depot...js lol. awesome video I'm just about to set up a 90 gal myself and I will be using this setup.

[@dustinhendon]

ive got a 220ga aqueon tank fresh water with the jabeo 6000 dual overflows into a sump .... im getting a flush every so often from each side ive tried tuning with valves with no luck id greatly appreciate your help or suggestions! its my first time having a tank this large with overflows ive read an read but cant seem to figure out the flushing

[@WoodBob]

Flushing means you have too much return water. Put a valve on your return pump and crank it back a bit or else set your pump to a lower speed. Full siphons do not have this issue but Durso style drains do. There is only so much water they can flow and then they flush.

[@dustinhendon]

robc thank you i will give this a try i just have a ball valve do you suggest a gate valve like you have or doesnt really matter? also as far as the the 1" bulkhead return pipe should my pvc be larger than the bulk head and use a bushing to reduce back down to 1"? thanks for the quick response!

[@WoodBob]

If you have a Jabeo 6000 pump you can reduce the flow with its controller. If not, then a gate or ball valve will work (gate is better). I don't think for the return water it matters if you have a larger going down to a smaller pipe with a bushing (drains can benefit from this setup). I would just use what works. 1" is what you should be using with a 1" bulkhead.

[@mikenelson6174]

Do the openchannels drain water? Or are they just used for emergency’s?

[@WoodBob]

They drain a small "trickle" of water and help to balance the full siphon channel. There is no emergency channel in my setup.

[@toddhayslett8269]

What's the advantage over using the standard megaflow kit?

[@WoodBob]

The standard kit is a Durso style drain which is not full-siphon and somewhat noisy not to mention has relatively low flow and tank turnover rate. Durso drains have largely been replaced in the industry by full-siphon style drains such as Herbie and Bean drains.

[@russellkeith3193]

how big are the holes drill in top of return need to be thx you sorry to ask so many questions my first sump dont want to flood room

[@WoodBob]

If you mean the main siphon standpipe, 1/4" or larger should be fine. It is just an air-entry hole to allow water to flow properly.

[@russellkeith3193]

@@WoodBob thx you so much

[@garyjohnson6164]

Can you do a tank update

[@aaronirwin5586]

Only thing I would add is to put a check valve on the return pipe so that it can't siphon back down from the jets when the pump is off. Otherwise I think this is a perfect setup and I might use this on my next tank.

[@WoodBob]

Thanks for the comments! In my case, I want the water to drain back down as it is part of my water change routine to have more water in the sump. I typically do a 20 gallon change and with the drain back amount this makes it easy to do entirely from the sump. Also check valves with saltwater tanks can be problematic as marine life and ditreus tend to collect and make the unreliable.

[@aaronirwin5586]

Makes sense. I usually do an oversized sump (1/3rd tank water) whenever I can fit it for same reason. As well as add as much water to total system volume as I can. Thanks for the video​ will reference this for sure on my next new sump in a few weeks (tank pending wife approval).

[@cmason87]

awesome setup, I definitely want to replicate this with my 90 and single over flow, is there any benefit to splitting the return and having some flow go to the refugium directly? or does it get enough flow from the skimmer chamber? I was looking to use the ruby elite 30 or ruby 36S which the elite has the fuge drain separate from the rest of the sump www.triggersys.com/ts/ruby_sumps/ what is your opinion on having the refugium a completely separate section of the sump with it's own dedicated flow T from the return on a gate/ball valve?

[@cmason87]

how do you determine how long to make your return run with the loc lines inside the tank? for a single over flow I would think only 1 or two are needed?

[@Matrix-ed4iq]

Quick question, should I run a filter sock on each drain or just on the two main drains?

[@WoodBob]

This is a good question. I do not run the open channel through a filter sock, just the full-siphon channels. However, you could. I don't think it is necessary. This drain when operating efficiently only carries a trickle of water.

[@thxthx1977]

@@WoodBob Hey Rob, quick question for you. I'm setting this up for the first time and trying to figure out how much room I need to leave in the sump to handle the water drain from the overflows. Do you know how much water is held in each overflow chamber or at least a good guess? I want to maximize the amount of water my system holds. Thanks in advance for your help.

[@WoodBob]

The overflows on my tank probably hold about a gallon each when running maybe 2 gallons if they were totally full. Keep in mind more than what is in the overflow will flow back when the pump is off. What is in the pipes and what is above the weir opening will also flow back.

[@thxthx1977]

robc thanks Rob and yes I was thinking about the pipes and above the weir as well. Why do you think is the best way to determine the amount of room I should leave in the sump? I’m sure there is an easy answer to this, I just can’t think of it right now. Should I just fill the tank up and then test in increments turning the pump off and letting everything drain? And then repeat until water level finds the perfect point?

[@WoodBob]

That is exactly what I would do. Only install your return section divider and see how high you can go with the water and still be flood-proof. Once you determine that, put in your glass at that height.

[@sgtbehrens]

Do you think this set up would work using a canister filter instead of a sump?

[@WoodBob]

A canister filter is a closed system and does not work on a siphon principle it uses a pump to circulate the water. I don't think it would work.

[@sgtbehrens]

Got both canisters plumbed together, one side works as it should but as the one drops water level inside the overflow, the other side just stays the same. Maybe because of the intake is the same as the return flow? Thanks for any help or suggestions

[@NeilBlalock]

My tank only has 1 hole in each overflow so would I be fine just doing the full siphon instead of having both the pipes?

[@WoodBob]

No you will not be able to balance it out. It will either run too fast and "flush" or it will run too slow starving your return pump. The extra pipe is critical for balancing the full siphon. You might be able to run a full siphon in one weir and use the other one to balance. I have never tried that but it should work in theory! Good luck!

[@SuperDanTheShoeMan]

Which pump is that and how much head? Just wondering how much you're actually flowing through there.

[@WoodBob]

This is the Jabeo DC-6000 with about 4 feet of head. It is rated at around 1500gph. I am very happy with the Jabeo pumps I also have a DC-9000. Those are 1" drains so will run around 2400gph each at full siphon maximum. My estimate is they are at about 25% of max capacity each (600gph), or slightly over 1200gph total flow for both drains.

[@michaellussoro2295]

What gallon size sump Is that? And can you explain why the difference between full siphon and open please? And why do you need both ?

[@WoodBob]

It is a 40 gallon "breeder" style tank which lends itself nicely to using as a sump. Full siphon means all of the pipe has water in it with no air. All water, all the time. There is a precise flow that a full siphon maintains that is dependent on gravity, distance, pipe size and a few other variables. In a closed system like a fish tank, there is no chance you could set up a full siphon drain and maintain the exact amount of return water that is needed to maintain the siphon. Too much and your pump runs dry, too little and the siphon runs out of water and "flushes". The solution is a separate "open" channel that runs in parallel with the full siphon. With the 2 drains, you set your return water to be slightly more water volume than the full siphon requires. This extra water flows down your open channel, which is variable rate (up to a point).

[@styliestylie1169]

When the water drops below the inlets, and you start filling the overflows again. How is the air removed?

[@WoodBob]

If I understand what you are asking, it is the holes drilled in the top of the overflow bends.