How To Update and Tune Your Classic Passenger Cars.

I spent $11.00 a car to get them to perform better. I'm going to show you how to install Kadee #508 coupler conversions, install the correct metal wheel sets, disassemble and clean these Classic Beauties and have them running and looking like a expensive newer car
#rivarossi
#classicmodeltrains
E-mail me at: [e-mail]
Find me on Facebook: profile.php?...
Find me on eBay: www.ebay.com/usr/classicmodel...
Mailing Address: Classic Model Trains
1507 Old Hardin Road
Billings, Mt. 59101
@classicmodeltrains
My second channel mentioned link below.
@RonsClassicRVs

[@hopstrr]

Ron King of the scub removal and creator of new high tech terminology. Another job well done.

[@classicmodeltrains]

He He, Nibbin's was a freshly invented word for this video. Usually I would call a lot of stuff Tit's, but trying to keep the vid's family friendly :-)

[@colbymitchell1137]

Love your commentary on this video. You kill me. Have to laugh all the time.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks :-)

[@weekendrailroader]

I've installed the 505 conversion kit on a number of six wheel heavyweight Rivarossi trucks. A lot of work and a lot of close reading of the instructions the first time you do it, but it becomes easier the more you do, and gives really good results.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for sharing the 505 number with me. I don't have any "heavies" so I never had to look up or remember what number goes on them :-)

[@jimtrack3786]

I need to switch my complete fifty plus Rivarossi fleet of passenger cars to kadee couplers. Currnently they have McHenry couplers. Your video proved essential. Thanks!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Big job coming up it sounds like.

[@larmo5633]

Well done, always nice to see some of the ol classics fixed up and going..👍

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks 👍

[@steveg3981]

Very nice presentation. Good sense of humour always appreciated. Thank you

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching!!

[@tim8166]

Great video, thank you! You've given me the confidence to give older N scale cars a try.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Tim

[@13thBear]

Another great video, Ron, and another great addition to your train schedule. Can't hardly wait to see that excursion train run on a regular basis with your regular trains. Two thumbs up!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks 13th :-)

[@lynnmccurdythehdmmrc2561]

Great Video, you don't need to change a thing from Music to Layout scene. You're making me think Maybe (just maybe) I should go and check my passenger cars, for you know. Weight (maybe remove those old Lug Nuts) couplers and performance. Interesting fact. Few years ago, the Club (HDMMRC) my wife and others rented a 1949 UP passenger "Sleeper" car pulled by Amtrak from LA to San Diego. Spent the night (slept in the passenger car) and back the next day. If I can find a picture of the RR car, I'll send it to ya. Thank you for the Video.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for your kind words once again Lynn. Doing rail time in an old passenger car sounds AMAZING to me!!!

[@SantaFeBob]

Excellent demonstration video. I have some of these cars too and they definitely need a tuneup. Thank you for the “how to” on the Kadee 508 couplers. I wasn’t sure if those would be worth the investment. I was planning on body mount couplers, but you showed that was a bad idea for short radius curves. I enjoy your humorous videos.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johnbanicki7232]

Thanks for the video. Just getting ready to update some old passenger cars and this came out at the perfect time. Thanks!

[@classicmodeltrains]

You're welcome John!!

[@rwheatley0206]

Awesome job Ron. Looks great.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks 👍

[@qwincyq6412]

This is the video I’ve been looking for. Now if only I could find interiors for my cars I’d be a happy railroader

[@frankmarkovcijr5459]

Ahm used to sell Interiors for passenger cars. There was also a company that used to make Interiors for athearn passenger cars as well.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Ive seen interiors for sale on the eBay.

[@AEStudt]

Well done Ron . Great overhaul

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks!

[@chuckabbate5924]

Love these cars. In an age of super high end cars, if you put a little TLC into them they're just as good . Personally, I use small wood screws in lieu of the truck pins .

[@classicmodeltrains]

I like the way you think. A few others have mentioned better hardware than the pins. Thanks for sharing

[@whip-its_dad4239]

Thank you so much, I learn so much from your videos as I am not very experienced .

[@classicmodeltrains]

You are so welcome!

[@BriansModelTrains]

Great video. Recently did the same thing from a train show find. I used some McHenry #52 truck mount couplers. My other set of similar passenger cars use the Kadee. Thankyou for your video.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching and commenting

[@regisbraga3833]

Thank you Ron for showing us how to transform (not so) cheap - but very nice - models in very good ones! Your work with the new coupler system is really remarkable! And how beautiful your shepherds are!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching and commenting Regis. :-)

[@CCSkater100]

Thanks for another great video. The passenger cars look great! I still have the AHM/Rivarossi passenger cars I got when I was a kid. Fortunately they already have metal wheels. I really enjoyed the music and train running at the end.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching!

[@davecrosson5018]

Your videos are so entertaining! Thanks for being so funny. "That's a lot of words", haha, yes those Kadee instructions I can totally relate! Keep those videos coming :D I have subscribed!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you like them! Thanks for the Sub :-)

[@joediberardino4419]

Thank you Ron for the awesome video

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you enjoyed it Joe :-)

[@elsdp-4560]

Thank you for sharing. Very nice Ron.👍

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching

[@thomasbeutel7931]

The cars look great, especially with the silver trucks. Thanks for the how-to!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks! Hope it helps you out

[@markiannacone2103]

That turned out beautiful, great job!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you!

[@TomzTrainzandAccessories]

Great job Ron! You have a lot of patience to do what you just did. Everything looks fantastic. The spacing between the cars looks prototypical.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks, that's what I was shooting for. close cars :-)

[@markanthonyfrench5139]

Thank you for another step-by-step explanation on updating classic equipment. To add weight, glue lead or steel shot into the voids in the floor or between the underframe. For adding weight under the interiors, you can use sheet lead.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching!!

[@Crookedriverandeasternrr]

Man they look really great. Thanks for the info

[@classicmodeltrains]

You bet

[@marklinzeit]

Hey there, I actually laughed out loud at one point in your video. That hardly ever happens. Most You-tubers aren't up to the task. The exploding pumpkin was close, but the nine times to get the reading you wanted on the micrometer was great! Thank you so very much for putting smiles on people's faces 🙂

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching and commenting. Them dang cheap digital calipers get on my nerves :-)

[@DWLSOUTHERNRAILROAD]

Still loving your videos! Two very enthusiastic thumbs up 👍🏻👍🏻 Watching you whiles I’m working on a little warehouse build in the garage, wife yells in here , “what are you laughing at” ? … “oh you must be watching the guy from Montana “! 😅

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you very much! I'm the funny guy from Montana.... I LOVE IT :-)

[@maestromecanico597]

Ah, thank you for the walk down memory lane. Learnt over 40 years ago that the RPO gets the Kadee 505s just like the six-wheel trucks. I recently retired from working on the real thing so maybe I'll get the models out again. Time will tell.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Your welcome, and I hope you do get the models running again :-)

[@ufolive1]

bro i love your humor man keep up the videos

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you!

[@adamdelarozza1985]

Nice! I do like the dining cars and that yellow one really pops. I'm a Marklin man...vintage collector and the diner car is a favorite. I collect the older metal cars from Germany, the appreciating value is a plus and i like em! That is a great shelf behind you and a great idea.

[@classicmodeltrains]

It's nice to hear someones collection is appreciating!! Thanks for your kind words.

[@jeffbeitinger6565]

I'm so happy I found this channel! I've watched a bunch of them already, but this is the one that mad me discover it. I've been going back and forth on what to do with all the old AHM/Rivarossi sets my father gave to me years ago. Update and tune? Keep original? Truck mounted or body mounted couplers? But watching this video a couple times helped my finally make my decision. Thanks, Ron!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad to help you out Jeff! Welcome aboard :-)

[@kennethljungberg642]

Hello Ron, thank´s for your answer. I am 63 years old started with Märklin, know and drive Fleischman, Roco, Jouef, Rivarossi and others. Lima is like Bachman, the E 60 got Roco drive yesterday. Yes use and build in Brass also, I don´t like Plastic. Best Regards Kenneth

[@classicmodeltrains]

Sounds like you play with a lot of European brands I have not gotten my hands on yet. Have a few here, just waiting there turn for a video. Take care Kenneth!!

[@thebuzzsaw6489]

Great video, thanks!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you liked it!

[@maltnz]

Nicely done. 10 out of 10.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you :-)

[@John-op5vi]

Yeah I've got the CNW 400 Six car set from Branchline. They need your touch but I'll give it a shot. Beautiful dogs!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks! :-)

[@AK47inHOLLYWOOD]

Nice video!! I've learned a lot from your channel!! Excellent work on the coupler upgrades as I'm looking to do them on my AHM/Rivarossi/IHC cars myself!! I love that you painted the trucks silver to match the prototype however, the car ends are grey not yellow - same with the diaphragms (should you decide to add them)!! BTW, as a former UP brakie, I had the pleasure of switching a few passenger cars once!! LOL!!! 😉

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for your kind words! I never gave the car ends any though if they were the right color. Painting the ends would have been an easy upgrade. Ive heard diaphragms can cause some issues. I would loved to have had some to tryout and be able to really "complete" the visual upgrades.

[@charlesdempsey176]

Enjoyed this video very much. I learned a lot about these cars. I have some LIRR I H C cars I want to put kadee couplers on. ThNks!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad I could help Charles

[@jack002tuber]

Excellent video. I'm your new subscriber!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you and Thanks for Subbing and supporting my channel

[@MygrandpasTrain]

Say, those turned out really good! Looks good with the spiffed up TYCO pulling too. I found that the body mounted couplers will work fine on tighter radius (22") but if the couplers are mixed, that is, both truck and body mounted, that's where trouble happens. Works best if they are all one or the other.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Perhaps that was my problem when I tried to run these. Mixed bag of coupler solutions. They all run real good now forward and reverse. Thanks for watching and commenting!!

[@1Klooch]

Havin' a bunch hangin' around, not getin' em' all to connect up... I can so relate.

[@classicmodeltrains]

:-)

[@4everdc302]

It is truly a nice set now👍🚂🇨🇦🇺🇲🙋

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks so much!!

[@bruceboyer8187]

I refurbed over two dozen of these that I inherited from Uncle Lance. It was def a good project to do. Those 508s really go in nice. I just glued the 508s in. .. The new wheels make the difference. I score tire weights from a tire shop.

[@classicmodeltrains]

2 dozen? That would have been cool to see a bunch of them on the rails!!!

[@train_man5975]

Intresting. About a week ago, I found this same car and claimed it as my own. It’s kind of junk so I’ll repair it now

[@classicmodeltrains]

Good timing it sounds like :-)

[@eottoe2001]

Nice cars. Upgrading them is a good idea.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks

[@kurtstrains]

You can also replace the pins with screws to keep them from wobbling so much. The screws that come with computer cases work great.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Sounds like a good idea. There is a lot of wobble with those plastic truck pins.

[@johnschultz9023]

Your layout looks like it's perfect for signals.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks John but I would end up breaking all of them off. Unless I could get brass ones :-)

[@danielboone3770]

Impressive! 😍😍😍😍🤩🤩

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you! 😊

[@weekendrailroader]

I have body-mounted a lot of Kadee couplers on shorter passenger cars such as Varney/ Lifelike heavyweights and on shorter streamlined passenger cars, such as Athearn blue box and Lifelike "train set" cars. Yes, wider curves do help, but I found the trick is to use Kadee extended shank couplers, and mount the Box just a bit back from the end of the car. It *can* leave a bit of a unsightly gap between cars, especially if you don't have working diaphragms, but usually it's not too bad. But once you get up to the length of Rivarossi cars or Athearn heavyweights, truck mounting (or potentially using a body-mounted swinging draft gear box) is the way to go.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Sounds like some good information there!! Thanks for sharing.

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Excellent video, I have a bunch of ConCor cars to convert

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you!! Hope your project goes well

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Going to subscribe to your channel

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267 Thanks for the Sub!!

[@raquaro1]

Man, did I enjoy that! What a great set!! And a great video! I wish I had your patience. I have a Pennsylvania RR set by Rivarossi sitting in a box for the last ten years and I just need to follow your lead and do something with them. I also have a GG1 to pull them. The couplers are all broken and your video will be a great help when I finally get to them. I am 75 years old next week and running out of time!! Where do you get your weights by the way? Thanks for a great channel!!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you for your kind words Sir!! I bought 10 lbs of weights from amazon. look up "car wheel balancing weights". Good luck on getting your fleet up and running again!!

[@YourLocalRailfan]

I watched this while custom detailing a lifelike BN f7a

[@classicmodeltrains]

:-)

[@jonpowell-ov3yh]

Another great video, thanks for sharing. BTW - Play the music if you want!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks :-)

[@WWIIREBEL]

Want a challenge?. Try restoring or building one of those older wood and metal passenger coach kits from the older Walther's line, (1947-through 1970's). I recently acquired a group of them, that were either assembled and are worn out(parts missing) and or completely unbuilt original kits still boxed,lol.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I agree with you. Them wooden kits from back then........HOLY MOLY!! plan on a week or more to build them. Very involved.

[@kingfordism]

I love these older cars as they can be cleaned up and a lot of detail parts added to make them really nice but it my experience with these that if they will see a lot of run time, body mount the couplers and put aftermarket trucks on them. If you change the wheels the axles will wear the plastic trucks and the wheel will drive themselves up into the truck, lowering the coupler height.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for sharing some good information, I'm sure learned from experience :-)

[@johnburnett5624]

When painting silver try using an undercoat of high gloss black first. I haven't tried this but my friends say it gives a better finish; try on a bit of scrap first though.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Sounds like it could be a good idea!

[@kencharron7147]

First time watching and plan to watch more. Would you be interested in taking out some of those weights and adding interiors and lights instead?

[@classicmodeltrains]

Welcome aboard Ken! Thanks for watching & commenting. I would have done interiors and lights if I had some. I know interiors are out there in the used market. Lights have a ton of options. It would be coolest if the lights were DCC w/ there own decoder. Perhaps in the future :-)

[@ohiofrogman1374]

Ron I have two suggestions for this video. On my AHM passenger cars, I cut the clear plastic tabs off of the window sides that hold the roof on the car. With this done, the roof holds fine and it makes it so easy to pop the roof out. Second, for those pesky little screws, I use a magnetic screw driver to hold them in place while screwing them in. It reduces the time of "loosing your religion" or trying to find them after the floor ate it Try these methods. They help reduce the thought "and I'm doing this for fun!!!!' Conductor Dave..

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks Dave. Yes I need to get myself a magnetic screwdriver for sure

[@adventuresinmodelrailroading]

U.P. has also painted the trucks Harbor Mist Gray. It depends on the Era. Also, when painting trucks do NOT let paint get into the axle journals. It can affect the performance of the wheels. I use distilled water for a final rinse after cleaning to prevent hard water stains.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for the good info!!

[@rapcreeperproductions3269]

I have a bunch of Mantua classics 1890 passenger cars. They run pretty well, added metal wells to them just need kadees

[@classicmodeltrains]

1890's. NICE. Not to many fellers model that era. I have a couple sets to showcase and revive coming up.

[@OhioCentralModeler]

Whenever I'm washing cars, especially for painting, I like to do a final rinse with distilled water to minimize any water spots/residue the tap water might have otherwise left behind.

[@classicmodeltrains]

A few Fellers have mentioned that to me

[@halliebohan884]

Did this 20 years ago. Have to do it again than for the refresher. Hal

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for stopping by for a visit Hal :-)

[@andrewdowns3403]

well done , and give those two big puppy dogs a pat from me

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you!

[@NERRP2017]

Nice Personally im leaving my passenger equipment with body mounted couplers (except my 2 lionel polar express cars, and its easier for me because I rarely run them on my layouts, because i have smaller radius curves, and i also recently just bought that coal liner gondola off your ebay page.. plan to turn it into a construction and demolition materials gondola/scrap/trash as most of those became those kinds of gondolas and still roam the rails today, a little bit of history for ya, but those look like up cars all they need is an e8a to pull em along!

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for picking up that Coal Liner. It's a little new for the era on my layout. Love the info on what they become later in their lifecycle. I do have a P2K E8A and B that's going to get a video on them that's is the loco (s) for these passenger units. Just have to get some time to sit down and film it :-)

[@chuchuchip]

Body mounted couplers require minimum 30" radius curves. Ask me how I know? My IHC cars were converted to body mount, added moving diaphragms, tinted the windows (so no interior details). Atlas 36" (bought the bulk pack) wheels worked very well, journals reshaped (tool sold by Micro Mark). Now you just look at the car & itt rolls away. Did this on 60 trucks (2 different period cars). A cup of coffee (or your favorite beverage), TV for company, clean out the journals boxes the time went fast. I model the D&H. At the time IHC was all you can find in passenger cars. An FEF would look great pulling your excursion run. Green tint on the windows would great. I used real car tint, then I discovered Tamiya clears. Takes some practise. Your young, you have time. FYI: adding a little weight makes the cars run very reliable. Nice job.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for your kind words and some good information on detailing :-)

[@herbertrodriquez6456]

I upgraded my AHM/Rivarossi & IHC passenger cars with metal 33 wheels by Walther's along with McHenry couplers for 4and 6 wheeled cars along with American ltd diaphragms for streamline cars. The cars that came with no interiors were also upgraded with the proper passenger car interiors. For extra added realism you can add window shades making for a realistic car. 7:24

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup! That's the way we had to do it back in the "good ol days"

[@guyfranks4354]

What you call "Shammys" were actually made from the hides of the Chamois, a species of goat antelope found in the Alps mountain range in Europe.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I just knew they were something other than cow hides. Thanks for the info!!

[@rickdee67]

Polishing compound will make those windows look new!

[@classicmodeltrains]

I agree. I thought I used turtle wax on them if my memory serves.....

[@michaelmorgan7893]

Good video. Although, I haven't had the best of results using Rust Oleum on plastic, as it "melts" and crazes the plastic, giving it alligator skin look. I use Testors silver, and it seems to stay on the plastic without crazing and clogging the details.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I've never seen R.O. affect the plastics but I will start looking a bit closer. Thanks for the heads up!

[@michaelmorgan7893]

@@classicmodeltrains yes, I was using it (back in the 80s and 90s, to paint the sideframes on my Athearn Santa Fe stuff silver, and the high VOC carrier that allows it to be sprayed seemed like it "etched" and attacked the plastic. Much the way the old FloQuil lacquer would, if you didn't use a barrier first.

[@thelazyfishkeeper2730]

what a video😜

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you :-)

[@Stanf954]

What KD # conversion do you use for the 3 axle hvywght trucks? I always body mount the KD #5 or the Whisker type coupler. It works far better than using the talgo type. It makes doing a reverse move without the constant derailing an so much easier to snip of the attached talgo couple box without all the filling you showed. 1 hole drilled for a 2-56 screw into the body to mount the coupler box and done. Adding a fiber or metal washer btw the bolster pin and truck bottom will reduce the play and slop of those trucks.

[@classicmodeltrains]

I have not updated a 3 axle truck so I have no good information on that. I mentioned why I did not body mount the trucks. The few cars I had with body mount kept binding up on my radius' and derailing.

[@weekendrailroader]

Rivarossi/IHC/AHM six-wheel trucks need the #505 kit from Kadee.

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@weekendrailroader Thank you for that good information :-)

[@TimsBitsnPieces]

Please please please........ at the end when you are panning along showing us your carriages.. please please please............. SSSSSSLLLLLLLOOOOOWWWLLLYYYYY pan along so we can see the carriages, Not super fast wiz past them.. have a look at the footage yourself and you will see what I am and others are talking about.... thanks in advance... I love your videos and these kinds of update and fix-it videos are what I also do and love... keep up the great work. Tim from Melbourne Australia.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Hello Tim from Australia! Thank you for mentioning my pan speed. I really was not aware I'm racing thru the shot. Will slow 'er down in future creations. Thanks for your kind words on my Vid's :-)

[@railvidpro]

Talgo or truck mounted couplers are OK on a train being pulled Pushing a train causes the couplers to turn to the edge thereby derailling the car most modellers will tell you that Talgo trucks are not the way to go Also 4 to 5 oz per car is OK if your trackwork is good

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup. These ones backed up w/ no problems. thru switches and everything. They weigh a NMRC Recommended weight of 6 3/4 of an oz. Now I know if I was trying to pull 10 or 15 of them w/ talgos I probably would not be able to back them up.

[@stevequinn5024]

Do you have a video that shows how to make the weight vs length gauge you have?

[@classicmodeltrains]

I talked about that gauge in my how to tune up cheap cars, and how to tune up mid to high end cars video's. Its using the NMRA weight recommendations, and just taking out doing math on every car. Every car should be 1 oz and you add 1/2 oz of weight for every inch of car.

[@casstelles]

I wish that I could find link to a site who made metal replacement wheels for the old Rivarossi passenger cars. They were the same diameter as the old wheels. So, no trimming of the brake shoes was required.

[@classicmodeltrains]

they are a scale 32" wheel. perhaps someone out there is still making them?

[@casstelles]

@@classicmodeltrains Yes, there was someone make replacements, but I don't remember the website right now.

[@angeloraimonde4660]

I have a set of rivarossi O SCALE U.P. passenger car I am adding people and beds and LED lighting.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Oh WOW!! That sounds petty cool and there big enough to see all there smaller details :-)

[@sort187]

A guy got to thinking...... I remember an old Revell model tip for shining the windows: toothpaste! I ain't even kidding. Toothpaste is a polish of sorts, and it does work well for plastic window cleaning! AND it leaves em minty fresh! 🤣

[@classicmodeltrains]

Ive had a few fellers mention toothpaste polish procedure

[@STho205]

White toothpaste does work. Maguires PlastX is the absolutely best stuff for hand polishing lexan and other clear plastic. The cars often pick up a haze on the window portal exposed ...which can be fine if you want a frosted or dusted train look...however if you want it clear...plastic polish. Everyone with a modern automobile needs a bottle of that stuff for monthly headlight cleaning...even new cars. I don't interior my cars because the number of figures you have to buy and paint to make seats and corridors look realistic. I use transparencies of historic car interior photographs, diners and cafes behind the glass and light the car with the magic wand lighting kits. Print them with a color laser printer on old transparency sheets. I do the same for buildings.

[@rickmoustier1723]

I have several Rivarossi passenger cars that I’m converting to 36” metal wheels. I used the micro mark truck tuner. How much should I drill on the truck?

[@classicmodeltrains]

You put the tuner in and spin it with out squeezing the truck side frames in. It will take off just the right amount. Although I gotta tell ya, I did not have to use the micro mark on the Rivarossi trucks.

[@rickmoustier1723]

WHOOPS. I did squeeze the trucks. After I put the 36” inch wheels on the trucks weren’t rolling well. So I used the tuner. Still not roiling well. I ended up having to cut off the break shoes. They were rubbing on the new wheels. Problem solved. I’m having a little trouble opening the cars from cleaning and to add weight.

[@MosriteCharlie]

to get these apart, simply twist the upper boy like wringing out a washcloth only not so strenuously. The glazing is a poart of the roof - at least on mine they are. I got this from a factory tech.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Sounds all wrong to me. Scary in fact. BUT......... I do have a junker I shall try it out on :-)

[@majortomtogc]

"Skin an eagle"...LOL

[@classicmodeltrains]

My Mellon comes up with weird things sometimes ;-)

[@RayBoebel]

I tried to do this conversion on the 6 wheelers.....no dice. I think Ken Amos Jr is going to end up with them

[@classicmodeltrains]

Did you use the #508 kit or the kit for the 6 wheelers? I believe there is a difference. Sounds like Ken is gunna be getting a pretty good deal!! :-)

[@YourLocalRailfan]

I have some athearn b and o passenger cars

[@classicmodeltrains]

:-)

[@stevepringle2295]

Newbie question for you. Why are passengers missing from passenger seats?😊

[@classicmodeltrains]

Costs too much money to do detailed interiors from the manufacturer. ALSO......They can sell you interior kits and people and make more $$$

[@jebbohanan2626]

LOL It took me 7 years ta figure out the wheel size was wrong, on my passenger cars….LOL

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup! I didnt know until a year ago :-)

[@haroldprice7027]

Well DONE I give it a 9.5 out of 10 as I know you lost at least .5 of a Digit somewhere?🤣

[@classicmodeltrains]

He He.... too funny :-)

[@ecidaho]

Holding the card to my head, The Great Karnak says…..Maybe CA glue would be easier to mount the coupler than drilling and using small screws. Yes probably heretical, but the level of ease may be worth exploring? The Great Karnak rates this video 10 out of 10! 👍 The excursion train looked fantastic!!

[@Stanf954]

Using glue is a formula for trouble. It can cause the coupler to get frozen if any glue gets on it and the box can and will come loose over time I drill a hole thru the floor bottom for a 2-56 screw and body mount the KD #5 directly with the screw. It not going anywhere and the coupler can be changed if it gets damaged and needs to be replaced.

[@ecidaho]

I generally use gell ca glue to keep the flowing to a minimum. Takes a few secs longer to set but avoids the going “every where” issue of most ca glue. I have also found it easier to snap and break if removal is required.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for watching Erick! I though about gluing the adapter in. 3 of them old trucks had adapters that were glued in from the original owner at some time.

[@ecidaho]

@@classicmodeltrains I’m some what mechanically impaired, so I lean toward less interactions of drilling and use of adding screws. Your modifications made great sense on the Mail Car. Currently I only have a batch of Athearn and Tyco passenger cars in the works at the moment, all with horn hook. Most of my cars and locos have horn hook couplers tbh and not planning on converting them, unless forced to due to breakage ect. Your cars looked great with the silver trucks, big improvement.

[@classicmodeltrains]

@@ecidaho yup! Most of my stuff is horn hook also. They work just fine for me also.

[@kingfordism]

Beware the trucks on these with metal wheel sets. The plastic is soft and the wheels will wear themselves up into the car on high mileage club layouts or such. Like a drilled hole that walks on you. PRR Broadway modelers can take a silver sharpie to the window frames while disassembled. These cars are ok I find that I put so much work in them that it doesn’t make them worth it unless you get them for a super deal on them.

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks for the good advice!

[@ezrafreemantle1824]

Is this what you do when your not captain of the time bandit?

[@classicmodeltrains]

I wished I had Johnathan Hillstrands kind of money :-)

[@ezrafreemantle1824]

@Classic Model Trains I hear you. I basically just did what you did to some old AHM Santa fe coaches I picked up. They turned out very well. Cheers for the videos 👍

[@billeichert654]

What about adding diaphragms

[@classicmodeltrains]

I would of but could not get ahold of any

[@tmscheum]

Algorithm comment!👊👍

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thank you!!

[@reilleylawrence7248]

Six tabs on the bottom to get the car apart

[@classicmodeltrains]

Yup

[@bradleyogden5688]

You'll have to upgrade a AHM / Riverossi 6 axle passenger truck. Someday I'd like to get started on my "Virginia City" observation car in the classic SP two tone gray. But until then I'll start looking for my set of my maroon colored N & W passenger cars and the Y1b I bought to pull them. Thanks.🦡

[@classicmodeltrains]

I need to get a set of "heavies" and do an update video for them. Thanks for watching

[@theplumber33]

Nice rundown!!! I have some I need to fix up! 💯🫵✌️

[@classicmodeltrains]

Thanks

[@jeffmorgan1229]

Hi Ron, I really love the comedy aspects of your videos, I found myself laughing out loud several times during this video alone. Keep up the great work. I really enjoy the detailed information on the engines that you service and make like new again. 🚂🚃🚃

[@classicmodeltrains]

Glad you enjoyed it