How To Stop Derailments on Your Model Railway

[@primestopmotion8032]

Hello sam trains and every one is my birthday today 🌟🌟🌟so anyway Sam trains I wondered if I could get my comment pinned

[@SamsTrains]

Hey!! Happy Birthday mate - have a wonderful day!!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@ramonmercado6039]

Happy birthday

[@primestopmotion8032]

Ramon thanks

[@zackerist2]

Happy birthday lol I’m late

[@primestopmotion8032]

Is ok and thanks

[@railer5516]

Here in the US we have the NMRA (national model railroad association) and they standardized all aspects of the cars including weight and wheel gauge. They recommend that cars should weigh 4.5 oz. Plus a half oz for every inch of the car so a 6 inch car should weigh 7.5 oz

[@phil424]

That sounds very interesting.

[@SamsTrains]

That is very interesting! I didn't know they had specs for standard weights - I'll definitely give that a look! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@kramvonatik8084]

G'day Nick, I believe the NMRA INITIAL WEIGHT for HO [closest to OO] is 1oz + a 1/2 oz for every inch, so your example should weigh 4oz [113g]. Cheers

[@RichardKuivila1947]

WOW almost 1/2 Lb. !

[@yellowstonethepony7769]

I'm a car mechanic. Those lead weights aren't made from lead due to their dangerous properties.

[@SamsTrains]

Yep - you can tell they're not lead, which is why I use them! They say FE on them...but they're not Iron, or are they?! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@kinkong1961]

that's right they are made primarily of zinc and steel now which is non toxic .

[@davidwatts1871]

As far as we know at this time...Wasn't Asbestos a wonder material along with Diesel a wonder fuel?

[@raymondleggs5508]

@@SamsTrains Well When I had HO scale trains that I had from my childhood-2012 which I no longer have all the weights in the Bachman rolling stock I had begun to rust, and so did the tyco steel track I had.

[@EsotericArctos]

@@SamsTrains Fe is Iron yes. They are a plated iron. Very nice. Much better than having balls rolling around inside your coaches/rolling stock. :)

[@leokimvideo]

Best way to weigh down a model train is Gold. it's very heavy for its size. And as for not using curves near points well yeah, do you ever see a real railway set up a curve right next to a set of points?

[@trainking7973]

Very true, gold is heavy

[@ethanegan2826]

Following this video (same carriages haha) I popped down to my local tyre fitting shop to get some wheel weights and thought you might like to know that you can get them in black as well 🙂 from one young guy to another thanks for the awesome videos, has really helped in my journey into the hobby.

[@blatherskite9601]

You can also paint them before peeling off the backing strip.

[@Popunoodletest]

Your videos have helped me lots with my new track

[@SamsTrains]

That's great to hear - thanks so much for your kind words! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@xnotforhirexbrawlstars4984]

Good we want people to enjoy this hobby! 😊

[@battleshipfan3435]

@@xnotforhirexbrawlstars4984 YEAH!

[@anithashreeram5446]

@@battleshipfan3435 YYYYYYEEEEEEAAAAAAHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@lindaoffenbach]

Quite a time when you've uploaded this, but this helps a ton now that we are drawing and planning our very first layout. For the moment we've just attesting on screen by applying scale rail specifications available for 3-rail (including flexitrack). Our goals are to achieve the highest reliability / flexibility of trains passing and shunting with the least amount of points and exactly taking notice what you've pointed out for turnouts. Gauging of wheels shouldn't be a subject for 3-rail stock (never seen it mentioned) but who knows now that we are going to check. You Sir should be awarded with a medal :)

[@richardclowes6123]

Hi Sam, good video as always. I just paint mine black when they are stuck on and you would never know . . . unless you are a utttttter total geek. "never let perfection get in the way of good" is my motto !!! Otherwise live will be too short. Horah !! Keep em coming Sam. You are my railroad guru x

[@sirxavior1583]

Your advise really worked, thanks!!!. I'm running a train with 6 streamlined corrugated steel budd passenger coaches, my first car the baggage coach kept on derailing...so I took off the shell and I realized it was the lightest coach because it didn't have an interior inside it...so I added weight and fixed everything.

[@SamsTrains]

That's fantastic to hear - have fun mate!! :D Happy New Year - Sam :)

[@kellyashfordtrains2642]

The Common Case of Derailments Sam has had many a hard time trying to prevent his rolling stock from derailing. Of course, as we know, it's not just certain pieces of rolling stock that choose to misbehave. Model Steam or Diesel Engines could sometimes play up as well. But this for Sam was about to turn into a disastrous head-on collision. So far, head-on collisions were unheard-of on Sam's layout. He was fully aware that accidents can happen at any time. It wasn't any set of points that Sam had forgotten to close or open that were to blame. Yet, somehow, a new disaster was slowly beginning to unfold. Sam had accidentally set the E2 Tank Engine, with four open wagons and a Guard's Van in tow, to go a bit too fast. When he tried to slow the 0-6-0 down, he found the controller wasn't working at all. This was on the outside line. To make matters worse, he discovered he had exhausted both controller boxes altogether. On the same track, a GWR 4-6-0 Tender Engine, Resolven Grange, was running (again too fast) in the opposite direction. With four coaches in tow, that is. Shock! Horror! "AAH!" screamed Sam, panic-stricken. "I can't look!" He covered his face with his hands, waiting for a catastrophe. There came a loud and frightening smash. Both engines hit each other head-on and blew themselves to pieces! The loft shook violently under the impact. Silence settled. Shaking like a leaf, Sam uncovered his face. "Oh no," he sobbed in a whisper. "What have I done?" The two steamies were nothing more than a pile of twisted and broken metal, the rolling stock having only minorly derailed. Sam burst into tears, ashamed of the accident he'd caused. Sam's Mother and Father heard about the disaster. Instead of scolding their son, they decided to give him a wonderful surprise. Sam's birthday came along a day later. The boy was still upset over the catastrophe. However, the minute he climbed up the ladder into the loft, he noticed two new controller boxes waiting to be played with. Also, set up on the layout, replacement models of E2 and Resolven Grange stood on separate tracks. Sam looked up at his parents. "Thankyou," sniffed Sam gratefully, "but what about our holiday?" "We don't like to see you upset," answered his Mother. "So we've given up the holiday to make you feel better." Sam flung his arms around his Mother and Father in a bear-hug. Tears of joy rolled down his cheeks. Sam was left to happily play with trains.

[@SamsTrains]

Ahh here we go - it was only a matter of time!! People would think that I was disaster prone!! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@jameswhiting4913]

my mates run a wheel refurbishment business but a simple thing with the weights to hide them a little better is give them a quick spray with black or similar colour and it hides them very well

[@SamsTrains]

That's a very good tip James - yeah they'd be way better hidden if painted black! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@bafilms1567]

This is sooo helpful as I recently got points on my model

[@SamsTrains]

That's great to hear - hopefully you won't have any issues!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@perthdave100]

One trick I found years ago with lightweight flat top bogie wagons was to use the long steel weights in can't be fixed Lima locos, I glued 2 of these together and temporarily fixed them to the flat area on the wagon, helped them not derail, another was the steel pin that goes in between the handles of doors to hold them together, the Bachmann internodel wagons that I had didn't like being reversed into a siding that had a peco point at the start, no problems being pulled out of the siding over the peco point, changed those peco points I had for hornby points, solved the problem, you can get or did get small bags of steel balls to help with weight issues on rolling stock, they may be available on ebay, I think these packs of weight strips that Sam has are a good idea for adding weight to coaches and wagons, the tender on steam locos is a god place to start adding weight.

[@brianmicky7596]

Hi Sam, Yes very helpful, all the help you got will be very welcome , more tips the better, many thanks, All the Best Brian 🤗

[@SamsTrains]

Cheers Brian - really glad this helped - let me know how you go on!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@brianmicky7596]

@@SamsTrains , Hi Sam, just done two of my bad coaches, now they run fine thanks for the tip , All the Best Brian 🤗

[@martinpattison5110]

My friend from New Zealand Tom, sprayed a teak coach that had been covered in varnish. (it looked like someone just tipped a bottle over it.) I cleaned off all the runs on the side panels and i used a sharp blade to clean off all the roof and then when over them again with some 1200 wet and dry paper. He has an Airbrush and spray booth. He then resprayed them with Artist Varnish thinned with turps and the finish is great. The reason for this comment is, he said to me that the coach felt too light and we compared it with one of his North American freight cars and there was a big difference between the two. I will buy some stick on wheel weights from a local tyre dealer and save the postage. Martin (Thailand)

[@SamsTrains]

Blimey, that sounds like a real restoration project - but yes, they are indeed very light indeed - sounds like a good idea, hope they work well for you! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@datguymiller]

Having a curve one way then the other straight away is called an S-Curve, the reason it causes more derails is due to momentum, if you have a bike you can show this yourself Get going at a decent speed turn left, then turn sharply right, you'll notice it's hard to stay balanced. The same goes for the rolling stock, it still has momentum left when it goes right

[@dean9265]

Great tips Sam, I’ve used the wheel weights for years now, just be wary of running too many wagons with weights, especially 30g, that’s a lot for one carriage…6 carriages with 30g is an extra 180g, which will burn out most loco motors on an incline. I’ve stuck to 20g for carriages and 10g for plank wagons. And mark the underside somewhere of the extra weights, especially if you have a lot of rolling stock. 👍

[@Mii378]

you could paint the weights black. That way they will be even less visible if attached to the bottom. Also: thanks for the back=to=back gauge idea. It looks amazingly helpful and I just ordered one.

[@SamsTrains]

That's a very good thought - and I think they even sell blackened versions of them too! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@ianhaynes5898]

Ah, a gauging tool! I'll have to get one of those. I have re-gauged some of my things and it is a bit of a fuss without the right tool, but the results made it worthwhile. Being a Persian owner I tend to get wheels furred up around the bearings and every now and then I take the wheels off for de-furring.

[@SamsTrains]

I can recommend them Ian - they seem to work well! haha yes - I've done a fair bit of de-furring in my time too, haha! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@thepope1332]

Got a layout round the top of my room so this is very useful!! Thanks :-)

[@SamsTrains]

That's awesome!! Hope this helps mate! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@dancalmpeaceful3903]

I'm not saying cleaning fixes everything....but in general, it sure as hell makes things function SO much better. Usually, when I do a serious cleaning I : 1. Get a six pack of beer. 2. Put on some great music 3. Tell your spouse to leave the house and go shopping. 3.Start by cleaning the entire track - vacuum first, then clean those rails 4.Now- clean EVERY car and locomotive AND inspect - you never know what else you might find that is causing issues. 5. If you do #1 & #2 while doing this - it's not so much of a pain 6. After all the cleaning is done - sit back and enjoy your model railroad for you now have clean track and clean wheels! 7. Continue with the use of #1 and #2. There's no harm in cleaning cars and track as they need it either (some cars and locos you run more than others)...but it's good sometimes to just sit down and do a MASSIVE overhaul of cleaning of everything....... Lastly regarding #4 - I remember when I was an adult and I got re-interested in model railroading, I was no longer a child and I could now REALLY sit down and troubleshoot problems as I now had more knowledge. So, I spent that first 2 weeks cleaning everything, and then slowly started to use every car I had....but I held back on a couple. The couple I held back on, I waited because they had caused me trouble since the 70's...always causing derailing's. So I finally put the one hopper on the track...sure enough -within 2 minutes of running it....it derailed. I finally sat down (now as an adult)...and REALLY looked at it. I saw that it simply just had a faulty coupler that wasn't snapped in correctly! I fixed it....and it has ran fine since...which brings up my whole point - INSPECTION during cleaning is crucial. Great vid Sam! Lastly, if someone doesn't like the weights....they can always paint them black....Love the gauge tool! I think I need to get one....

[@austinbyrne9326]

Thank you for this tip Sam!

[@SamsTrains]

My pleasure Austin! :D

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

Sam, this is valuable for so many People!! As I've mentioned, I'm an Old Fart Modeler. 😜 Cleaning the Wheels, although beneficial, does little to stem derailments, unless it's dirty to the point of being bumpy. Of course clean Wheels help promote clean Track. 😉 You DID touch on the two Best mods for smooth, derailment free running... WEIGHT and GAUGE! Heavy Rolling Stock tracks better (pun intended!). Gauge prevents skipping over Points. That Oxford Hopper. Beautiful yes, hard to weight - YES! My trick for Hoppers SEEMS dangerous, but its not. I take Lead Shot (CHEAP at Sporting Goods Stores)... Wearing Gloves, I insert the Shot into the Hopper bottom, about 6-8mm deep. THEN I take two part Epoxy, and encapsulate all of Shot, sealed from any future harm! As the Epoxy is curing, I sprinkle some Coal, Gravel or other Commodity type over it. So they're all weighted, above Standards, like I like it! I just tell the nitpickers that my Loads didn't empty properly!! 😉 Of course your concerns about Lead are Valid... If you want a cheap alternative, visit a Machine Shop. They make TONNES of Iron and Steel Shavings during the course of their day. Many of them just chuck the Metal shavings in the Bin. You may be able to get a FREE Sack of Metal Shavings from one of them!! I weighted 60 Cars that way. Carmine ✈🚂🚙

[@CarminesRCTipsandTricks]

Sam, you definitely represent the next Generation of serious Model Railroaders! I've been in it since 1974. 😳 I've got nothing left to give but years of experience. You can either use it or not, but I'm happy to share my Decades of experience with you and only a few others.

[@SamsTrains]

Really glad this is some help Carmine - great ideas with the lead shots, that all sounds good! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@limeddasch382]

I have a friend, who‘s a mechanic and he works quite a lot with the weights. Obviously older cars and wheels. His phrase kills me every time: Yeah, yeah. I do it so plus minus. Mhhh, that looks about right. 🤣 Do it first and ask questions later.

[@SamsTrains]

haha absolutely - that sounds like a good motto to me, lol! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@limeddasch382]

Sam'sTrains omegalul 🤣

[@blisseyran-dom6822]

My main fix for stopping derailment first is check for bends in the axel, then check for dust, oil the bogies, then if all else fails replace them with some brand new steel wheels. Then if that fails I send it to the sidings where it lives forever.

[@SamsTrains]

Absolutely - sounds like a good system mate! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@kingorry7223]

I think if I built the layout, I would probably most likely use streamline points!

[@SamsTrains]

Yeah the express points are much better - but not always ideal for tighter spaces! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@tonyclough9844]

They derail on express points on my layout

[@bonesawarm6987]

Express points ain’t that much better at all

[@donsharpe5786]

I had that problem when I built my own wagons and they derailed on long trains. I haven't done a weight for coaches but I found the best weight for wagons was 35 gm. I am glad you mentioned back to back gauges. Back to back gauges are available commercially from Brassmasters. On older stock, I had to ream the bearing cup particularly when I changed from plastic to metal wheels. I found that I had to adjust Bachmann wagons more frequently than Hornby. Another issue I found was that couplings sometimes pull the coach in the wrong direction if the coach is too light. This is less of a problem with the large couplings present on this video but may occur when smaller couplings are used. Thank you again for another interesting video, which will help many others.

[@SamsTrains]

Duly noted Don - that sounds a good weight to me! You're absolutely right about the couplings too - they can definitely cause problems! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@michaelnaisbitt1639]

I have a particular point that really bugs me your clip has given me some suggestions. I will beat it yet. Ha ha. Thanks from down under

[@SamsTrains]

Glad to hear that Michael - don't give up!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@railenthusiast88]

As someone transitioning from firing and guarding on a steam railway to back to model railways some very good hints and tips which I'll bear in mind when I move and have a spare room. I have a combination of triang from my Dad and more recent ones when I started by own set 20 years ago. Main derailment issue I've encountered was a 2P loco which had tender drive and traction rubber tyres. It worked ok in reverse but caused no end of grief going forward. Suspect I'll need to replace the tyres with steel ones if it was to run again...

[@SamsTrains]

That's great to hear mate - that all sounds fantastic - good luck with the setup - and yes those 2Ps can be a nuisance with their tyres! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@erincb9499]

Great video mate. 😁 really useful 👍👍

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks very much Cecilia!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@cathcartmagic]

Sam'sTrains hello

[@erincb9499]

Sam'sTrains 😄😁

[@harrisongrant8558]

Thanks for making this video, Sam, it's a common, yet irritating problem that I have dealt with myself on occasions. I had this happen a lot with my 1970s American rolling stock, particularly boxcars and hopper cars, which were very light and top-heavy.

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks Harrison - yeah it is a pain with certain wagons - definitely top-heavy ones!! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@kingorry7223]

"put it in the comment section below" *Points at the coach*

[@SamsTrains]

haha!! xD

[@FarlandHowe]

I think your video is spot on. There is of course many more complications when the point is parts of a complex railway. Dead level is the most important. When you’ve cut a point into the layout as an after thought that is where many problems can arise. Some rolling stock just will not run no matter what you do. Rob

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks very much Rob - yep, definitely a lot of potential issues - but it's all good fun I suppose! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@LexusRXGuy]

Actually it is the “Hand of God” 😂🤣

[@SamsTrains]

haha absolutely!! ;D

[@marichat1256]

Leokimvideo reference?

[@kadebrown6162]

@@marichat1256 I get it.

[@jdpancoast1790]

MariChat125 lol

[@agentM1991]

This was very helpful. I have model train set but it is packed away and at a family member's house. I don't have a loco to operate it and I don't have the funds to buy one. I can't tell you how many times I lost it when my train would derail during a running session. Cheers. And your welcome for watching.

[@SamsTrains]

That's great to hear - ahh well, maybe one day you can get it going!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@davidstrains4910]

Great video Sam it's not fun when stuff derails

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks David! Yeah it wasn't much fun, haha! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@elliottsaucedo442]

Unless it’s staged and in slow motion.

[@teescottageguyproductions]

This helps a lot! I have a siding on my railway which has a curve after the point. That’ll explain why my freight wagons ALWAYS derail on it!

[@railgun222]

Hello Sam! I am currently trying to find mix-traffic engines for my railway, because my original heavy goods engine broke down. Therefore, I had to use my original mix traffic engine for heavy goods. Could you do a day out with mix traffic engines? Thanks! Sincerely, Railracer222 P.S. from time to time, I might forget to check to only set of points on my layout after my room is cleaned. Then, the running train could go onto the siding and push the other train through the buffers.

[@SamsTrains]

Hey! That's very great idea - I've never done a mixed traffic video before!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@railgun222]

Your welcome! I’m also doing a video on some model cars where I fix them up by putting in new batteries, fixing the wheels, etc,. Maybe it could help with fixing up your model trains and making modifications.

[@StaxRail]

A very good video! I will have to keep this in mind when I put out my basic loop due to my baseboard being unavailable. However, I have never had an issue with my railroad teak rake.

[@SamsTrains]

That's good to hear mate - hope this helps you in time! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@alarmmuseum]

Good video! 👍

[@SamsTrains]

Thank you! :D

[@jamesbeardsmore8913]

Great stuff Sam I always watch your videos. I find old Rolling stock and old locos don’t like Peco points, what can be done about this problem? I am 86 and don’t get out much so I look forward to Sam’s trains and Budget model railways. Keep them coming Sam.

[@gamerjosh5686]

Sam I wish you realised this vid earlier because I hade my flying scotsman derail and take a dive

[@SamsTrains]

Oooh nooo!! Was she okay?!?! :'( Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@gamerjosh5686]

@@SamsTrains yeah just a broken coupling and buffer and thanks for asking :)

[@TechandTrainsChannel]

Have you ever heard of the problems with derailing on the curve of Hornby Standard Points? If its not the wheel gauge, the plastic nose of the point needs lightly sanding down, as some Hornby points have the nose slightly too wide at the point, causing the rolling stock's wheels to go up and over instead of around. Don't sand too much, you wreck the point! Worked for me and my Class 350, which had 32 possible wheels to derail!

[@SamsTrains]

Yes I've heard people talk about that too - I might give that a try - thanks for the tip! :D Cheers, Sam :)

[@urfat2872]

Is is possible to make a video on how to do scenery?

[@SamsTrains]

haha! I'm not sure you'd want one from me - I'm terrible at scenery! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@urfat2872]

Sam'sTrains ok :)

[@Zebrails]

Black felt marker or black tape to cover that shine, or for hoppers-use false bottoms that cover the weights. One must also remember, when improving the tracking of wagons by using weights, say 10 passenger wagons... multiplied by each additional grammes or ounces... now, put those wagons back in a box for storage... over time, that collection is getting heavier by weight, not volume! Very nicely done video... first time for me to watch them. I'm John in BC, Canada.

[@SamsTrains]

That's very true - and they even do blacked-versions of the weights too, which is great! Yes that is an issue - it's important not to over-do it! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@JonatanGronoset]

How to stop derailments: simplest solution is don't run any trains. ;) All joking aside, I blame the issue on scale flanges, which is why Märklin is pretty good because their oversized flanges actually provide very reliable running even on rough uneven track, at high speed I might add. In contrast my american rolling stock with scale flanges derail on the slightest fault... And yeah, weight is very very important. Again, Märklin solves this by a heavy metal plate built into the frame of their wagons.

[@SamsTrains]

haha very true - that's a better, if more defeatist solution, lol! Yeah that's a good thought - I bet that plays a part for sure! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@MarkInLA]

How do you like that ! Decades and decades praying years and years for the demise of what are called 'pizza cutter' flanges, which in HO, scale out to be some 6" deep in the 1:1 scale , finally getting near scale flanges, and this guy wants the toyish pizza cutters to return !!! Thousands and thousands of, at least US MRRers, have excellent running RRs with scale flanges.. You're just a person who doesn't want to deal with laying track correctly...Add weight,OK. 6" flanges, NO !! M, Los Angeles

[@Mokkers_stuff]

Hi Sam, caught this video recently. I too use wheel balancing weights for light rolling stock. When mounting them where they are visible I just go over them with a black permanent marker on the edges and the top. This reduces the visibility considerably. Cheers.

[@MemphisSubRailfan]

I usually don’t watch people in the UK because I’m American but I love your videos

[@SamsTrains]

That's great to hear - glad you make an exception for me, lol! ;D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@Lamp_2155]

My class 56?...always derails on points.

[@SamsTrains]

Ahh really?? It's more tricky with locos, since you can't really mess with the wheels too much! Hope you can sort it anyway mate! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@johnedwards2696]

Informative video, I've taken this onboard next stop Back to Back gauge

[@josephdominguez2814]

They're not called wagons they're called cars in America

[@SamsTrains]

That's very true! Hopefully you still understood what I meant ;) Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@ddpeak1]

They are also called trucks, what you call trucks we call bogies also carriages get called coaches, that you call cars. There must be loads more.

[@FlyingScotsmanFan]

Thanks Sam, very helpful. I'll keep this in mind when I build mine, I've got big plans! Well done, Dylan

[@SamsTrains]

That sounds awesome Dylan - good luck with your plans!! :D Be sure to film your layout once it's ready!! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@chugwaterjack4458]

Open your new Hornby item, enjoy viewing it, and then USE the wheel gauge! After you've adjusted the wheels, now go to the track and enjoy. Nearly every piece of Hornby equipment I've ever owned, including locos, has needed wheel adjustment. Also, don't just depend on a back-to-back gauge, but check the over-flange spacing. Occasionally a wheel can be rather thick, and the flanges themselves are too far apart. [Later edit]: When possible, I'll put the 10gram weights on the bogies after coloring the edges with a black marker. That has really help the Hornby coaches, but others may need a bit of attention so as to not foul any mounting screws, or other means of attaching the bogie to the coach. Obviously, one does not want the weight to contact the wheels at all. Also, I suggest using the NMRA standard gauge tool to check the actual flange spacing AND DEPTH, along with the clearance through the guard rails on the points.

[@phillipg1588]

Another issue regarding derailing through points are couplers (but this might relate more to N scale carriages). Ensure that couplers are free to pivot (more so if they are attached to the body of the car and not the bogie.

[@ryans413]

If you are using Bachman ez track on your layout these weights can be stuck onto the bottom side of the track it really helps hold the track down. I’ve done this before. Also box cars are the easiest to ad weight just pop the shells off stick some weight in pop shell back on. The problem cars be like tanker cars there’s no where to stick weight on them

[@RichardKuivila1947]

Get you sef a Truck Spreader ! Less dicey removal/reinstall $$ but you only need ONE.

[@28RailwayVideography]

Interesting little video. I never experience issues with derailing, only locomotives. If there is a problem I just ‘rip’ out the Bogie and give it a thorough cleaning. And for cleaning the wheels I use tooth picks. They are very good for cleaning wheels

[@SamsTrains]

Glad to hear you don't have these issues - that sounds like a good tactic too - glad it works for you! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@waverleycross4231]

Hello Sam - some real sage advice there, thank you. I'll be getting a back-to-back gauge next. I did use a piece of lead sheeting cut into squares for balancing rolling stock, but was concerned about the toxicity. Your wheel weights are ideal and so easy to apply. Here's a tip I found useful: get yourself some black (goth) nail polish. Often found in discount stores for $1 as it's not really fashionable any more. This is ideal for painting weights or any undercarriage modifications and it dries in less than a minute. You can get it in matt too. Cheers ,Angus.

[@SamsTrains]

My pleasure mate, hope it helps! Yes a back to back gauge is a great idea - you can standardise all your wheels that way! Yeah I'm not keen on lead either - I've gotten rid of all of mine, just to be safe! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@patrickporter6536]

Get a tin of Humbrol matt black..

[@charlesweager1768]

Thanks for the useful info without the waving hands syndrome. My railway club advised me to get a wheel guage. It worked wonders. Your track used for illustration was slightly kinked and it looks like a first radius, always a problem. To get around this I was told to buy from a well known DIY store a thin strip of inch wide(2.5 cm) aluminium, it is about six feet(2m) long. As long as it isn't kinked it will always form a perfect curve and you use this for all curves. The wheel weights is a useful tip, I will be applying it to my Parkside and Kitmaster/Airfix/Dapol kits and my Dapol ready mades.

[@SamsTrains]

No problem Charles - yes the gauge will help a great deal! That's a good tip - I'll be sure to look into that! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@paulmichell4433]

You can buy black self adhesive balance weights. Lead were outlawed some years ago, most are steel now, hopefully coated so they do not rust; some zinc & even plastic weights have been known.

[@James_Rivett]

I got over this by trying to keep things as realistic as possible, which meant using Hornby express points, and peco large radius points. With peco points I found I had to open the gap between the rail head and guide rail. I also found wheels play a bit part, the best wheels I've found are the old Hornby ones with the pressed metal tires, such as shown on your mineral wagon. I find the flanges are slightly deeper but still thin so not to course issues. My Gresley coaches like yours are the best riders I have. The worst I've had for sometime was the Royal train coach set (mk2a and Mk3a) and even with these wheels they were bad. I run a small engineering works, so I robbed some M12 buts out of the stores, the mk3's I hid underneath the inside (not that it matters, as you cant see the inner detail on the Royal Coach set) but the Mk2a's I had to put one in the passenger vestibule, and one in the guards compartment. I also find weight helps. Having watched your video I think I will do what you have done to the bogies and the poor riding 4 wheel wagons I have. I have a Hornby lomac 4 wheeled well (I think they use the old Airfix moldings), and that wont go over any points no matter what I have done. I've also had issues with some Bachmann tenders, and ended up turning the flanges off the centre wheelsets.

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks very much for sharing - yeah that sounds like the best approach to me!! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@GarethFarnsfield]

I have the gauging tool you use, very good but I find using digital callipers set to 14.4mm are better on my Peco track. Most of my derailments are caused by mixing couplings especially between the engine and first wagon. Still all adds to the fun!

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks Gareth - yes manual measuring is the only sure-fire way to sort the problem, very true! And yes - mixed couplings definitely does cause problems too! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@mikecartlidge5355]

The stick on wheel weights can also be bought in Black which makes them less noticeable if stuck on the underside of rolling stock.

[@SamsTrains]

Yeah you're right Mike - I since found those too! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@leroyholm9075]

Hi Sam there are some great practical tips on your site, usefull. Enjoyed this!

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks so much Leroy, very glad to hear that! :D Cheers, Sam :)

[@samjohnson6128]

I check to see if the coupler limits the truck travel and dremel clearance where required,as this helps with radius turnouts and other wavy track layouts.

[@SamsTrains]

That's a good idea Sam, thanks for sharing! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@fantomita_rider477]

i am really happy that Sam actually looks at comments unlike some others :)

[@SamsTrains]

Of course!! It's a pleasure mate! :D Cheers, Sam :)

[@michaelchartres]

A VERY good tip Sam. I have added weight to a number of my rolling stock items but not with balancing weights. That is a much better idea so, thank you very much. Regards Michael

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks very much Michael - my pleasure, hope it works very well for you! They do blackened versions too - which are even less conspicuous! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@FlyingScott]

Very usefull, especially with me going to build another layout very soon! Thank you Sam!

[@SamsTrains]

That's great - good luck with the layout mate! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@sirgamer1254]

When I added weights to my carriages a while back, I always open up the coach and slid them under the interior. Just a thought so that they don't knock on anything you may have on the track.

[@SamsTrains]

Yes absolutely, if you can do that, that's a much better option! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@markdm5415]

@@SamsTrains That is precisely what I was hoping to watch you do on that passenger coach in this video!

[@jembrackett6319]

To overcome the problem glue 20thou plasicard strip into the check rail overlapping it by 5-10mm into hornby points. Peco points not a problem. This cured the problem with derailments fully for me. Not a single derailment since.

[@cakepowers]

I really needed this it happens all the time for my coaches thanks Sam

[@SamsTrains]

That's great to hear Cake - good luck!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@mrmike8782]

Thanks alot Sam. This video was so helpful. Thanks for making it Mr Mike

[@SamsTrains]

My pleasure Mr Mike, glad you found it handy! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@yorkshireman6650]

Hi sam how are you good solution i would never thought of that myself have you changed your layout there seems to be something missing great video mate has usual keep up the good work

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks very much mate!! No I've not changed anything - I just didn't show much of the scenery in this video! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@katebygrave]

I used to make weights from metal toothpaste tubes. The metal is zinc and you can melt it down and pour it into a mould. I would glue the weight to the coach or wagon and paint it black. I tried to aim for a scale weight. So for a 45t coach the scale wight is just over 100g. However you’ll need to consider the weight of the rolling stock if you like to run long rakes. For loads, say a coal wagon, I’d make a card insert and glue real crushed coal on top to hide the weight.

[@SamsTrains]

That sounds very interesting Kate - I've never heard of doing that before, well worth a try though! :D Thanks for the tip, Sam :)

[@bow-tiedengineer4453]

for the loads, you could also hide a few weights under the ballast or crushed coal.

[@bentullett6068]

Regarding adding weight without ruining underframe details to a model you could buy deluxe materials liquid gravity which is a liquid ballast into cavities of models. Alot of the railway magazines and major modelers use this stuff to keep the detailed wagons, carriages and pony trucks on locomotives weighed down to improve running.

[@SamsTrains]

Yes I've heard of that too Ben - thanks for reminding me - I'll look into getting some of that! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@bryanriopedre7335]

Hi sam the only safe place to use lead is in the boiler tube of a steamer that has traction issues with a long consist i did this with a Black 5 that now pulls 30 loaded coal hoppers (real coal) which typically slips on take off then she pulls the hoppers no probs now /keep doing the vids M8 they are great & very informative

[@SamsTrains]

Yeah that's true Bryan - definitely wouldn't want it on the outside anywhere! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@AmeryJunction]

Very good, in the hoppers you can put the weights in the actual load area and then cover it in a load material . That’s what I do and works well 😃

[@SamsTrains]

Absolutely - if you were adding loads, that would definitely be the way to go - great suggestion! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@gooniesmoonies4606]

There's a slight bump on the V part 'switch track' which is plastic, needs a little filing down. If you was to run a wagon freely on that part you'll feel the bump.

[@MyChaz2]

Excellent video. We in usa use NMRA weight classes for rolling stock,oopps wagons. But our club won't allow any wagons on layout without proper weight.

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks Chaz! Yeah I have been hearing about that... but blimey, that sounds very strict!! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@BuggleskellyStation]

Thanks for the tip RE weights. For anyone concerned about realism I've found some similar weights on eBay but painted black so they'd be less noticeable on the underside of rolling stock, Tom

[@SamsTrains]

My pleasure - yes the black versions are a very good call indeed - good one! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@rongoodwin4053]

Thanks Sam for the tip about wheel balancing weights for model trains, got some on order.

[@SamsTrains]

My pleasure Ron - hope they work well for you! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@lorenzobeckmann3736]

if there is room to use 6" of flex track to transition those curves (after T O); and proper weight, smooth track pivot. !One of my pass cars had a step which hung too low and struck the wiring screw of an powered-T O !

[@rockacraig5653]

Here's another tip, Watch out for buffer lock. My coaches often derrail and/or pull the loco off while I'm shunting. My solution is to be a bit rough with 'em to avoid the locking. And if there's any soldering check to see if it rises above the rails, I've got such a point near my turntable and it always derails my Q1's tender without fail.

[@SamsTrains]

Yes that's very true actually - I've seen that quite a lot!! :O Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@teescottageguyproductions]

Once there was a bent fishplate on one of my points and mallard went over it at full speed. The bent fishplate acted as a point and swerved mallard at full speed into carriages! The videos of it is on my channel in my hornby playlist

[@SamsTrains]

Ooh that's not good!! Sorry to hear that - I'll have to look though! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@edscoble]

I have found that the main cause of derailment was using Hornby point where the flange have a big gap, which work fine with Hornby product but not always with everything else. The Peco one so far work much better with the majority of stock, whose flange gap is smaller and thus less likely to cause derailment.

[@SamsTrains]

Yeah I bet that's true actually - it seems to happen quite a bit on Hornby points! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@robertstrainset6556]

Hi Sam, Interesting one this certainly worked on that carriage, you could use a black felt pen on the edge of the weights and you would hardly see them.If you do all of those carriages you could use them more often in your train running. Cheers Robert.

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks a lot Robert - and yes, to blacken the weights would be a very good idea indeed - I bet you could spray them black too! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@dobbsdroid]

Ah, I've had more than a few instances of derailment though I have no permanent layout. I've got a few wagons that derail when simply going over the main route on points, though one particular open wagon seems to have stopped doing it. Some of my box vans still derail on points but some have taken to just bouncing! Then there's the break vans which sometimes derail on the divergent route of the points during a shunting manoeuvre! Honestly the only rolling stock that rarely give me grief on points are coaches. I do have a few solutions though... express points, which are designed for use at high speed and loops so you can use a siding any which way and you don't have to worry about reversing. For shunting manoeuvres though I would use your solution Sam'sTrains and just stick some weights under the trouble wagons... so I'll have to get me some! Maybe I wouldn't have so many derailments if I had a breakdown train... though that would probably just derail too!

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks a lot for sharing - definitely worth looking into those! Good ideas there, thanks for that! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@silverstonestudios01]

I have a "beginner" O-scale layout, I've almost never have had trouble with derailing, except when the train goes to fast, but that's not normally an issue with having post-war Lionel Corporation trains.

[@SamsTrains]

Ahh that's good to hear - maybe these issues aren't as common in O gauge then?? Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@CorradoMella]

Rather than the B2B gauge you use to measure the internal width that, as you say, may give wrong results depending on the flange thickness, use a digital caliper measuring the external width flange to flange. A digital caliper is also useful to check if the wheels are centred on the axle measuring how far the tip sticks out on both sides, but also very useful in many other situations like verifying that the gauge of the track itself is not incorrect because of distortion. A decent digital caliper is not more expensive of the dedicated, single function gauge you use and has multiple scope of work.

[@SamsTrains]

Yes that's a good point - I will start doing that! Good advice my friend! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@tomlawton7087]

Sam, you can get black wheel weights, which are less noticeable, or you can colour them with marker pens or black paint. And the NRMA standard is 25g per axle, so weigh the existing loading and add as required. After all, making a train too heavy may introduce traction problems on gradients! And finally, you can get other Back-to-back (B2B) gauges that are set up for the track that you run, so you don’t have to do the “squeeze it a bit more” technique, with its erratic results. Regards, Tom

[@SamsTrains]

You can indeed Tom - I saw those too after this video - they'd be absolutely perfect! Duly noted - I didn't know there was an NRMA standard weight - that's very interesting! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@johnzeller1338]

You could always paint the weights under the couch black to hide them even more. Great video. 👍

[@RichardKuivila1947]

Big Shout Out to your $$$$ Patron ! I Enjoy your videos OFTEN !

[@johnmarshall2660]

Great Idea, I had some coaches given me with plasticine inside, also from other video's using mag plates and magnets underneath counld help, I will have a challenge as I am modelling a Layout on Bolton 1963 and there are 4 tracks that cross from5 "Y" points that I am making using a template and this will be a de-railing nightmare...but your video has been a great help..

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks John! Yes I've had some models stuffed with plasticine too - it was a nightmare to clean it out actually! That sounds very impressive - hope it works well for you in the end!! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@ChapelEndJunctionUK]

Hi Sam , yes I'm still watching . This is a great video covering some very common issues that we all have , nice to know that it's not just me who has fitted bends after a point and had to alter them . Kind regards .......Peter

[@SamsTrains]

Hey Peter, great to hear from you again mate! haha ditto - glad it's not just me too, haha! Take care mate, Sam :)

[@maltnz]

This is an area where a bit of flexitrack can be used to lengthen the curve and reduce the radius straight out of the point. Bit difficult on carpet though, as you cannot fasten it down to keep the shape.

[@pawloalbanskyj2487]

for weights you can paint them black or the color of the bottom and they will blend in and not be noticeable

[@marticon9286]

Thanks Sam for the tip on weights. Ive found some uk made black versions which are great and less visible.👍

[@keithpitcher8379]

Very good fix, Sam, & an especially good tip re: using the balancing weights!

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks a lot Keith, glad you liked that! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@TheWoodak61]

The back to back gauge solved my Dapol 4F-051-014 5 Plank Wagon GWR - weathered derailing issues immediately. Lovely little wagons but would they stay on. Once I "gauged" the wheels no more problems. They were all too tight. Keep up the tips.

[@SamsTrains]

Glad to hear that Alan - gauging often fixes these issues! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@AverageOhioan1903]

Nice going I would never have thought to put them on the trucks,

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks mate! Yeah it works quite well!! :D Thanks for watching - Sam :)