How To Use an Insulation Blowing Machine, 101

[@glenngoodale1709]

Thank you for staying so real on videos . I love to watch all of them

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Thanks for watching.

[@creamofbotulismsoup9900]

Thanks for this. I plan on adding some loose fill to our attic and a small expansion. They did a very bad job on our house when it was built, as little as 3 inches of fill in spots.

[@simonac688.]

great review David just the one i was looking for cause im going to use this unit next week to do a job and the rental store hasenth any videos or links to show how this unit works...so thanks to you now i no whats what ...Thanks a Million...:)

[@greggo502]

Thanks Dave ,Very good video!!

[@mefirst4266]

DO I REALLY NEED THE BLOWING MACHINE TO DO MY YARD...... OR CAN I JUST BROADCAST IT WITH MY HANDS AND A BUCKET...........

[@melancrus]

Very didactic. Thank you very much and greetings from Chile

[@galvanizedgnome]

You frigging didactic, from west jersey over here.

[@kdo8187]

Could you post a link to the 1 1/4" tiger flex hose you use in this video?

[@petersachs764]

Am I the only person who saw the Toad chillin' at 8:37?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I was wondering how long it would take for someone to notice that. LOL

[@andycthankyouverygoodexpla588]

Hello how you doing,ibwould like if you can give idea how to make a big machine for doing 30 bags for ours operate with a gas motor. Thank you.

[@truthdealer99]

Is this machine STRICTLY for attic "popcorn " blow in? Or can this be used (maybe modified) for wall insulation (closed or open cell)?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I upgraded the blower motor in another video so that I can use it for dense-packing.

[@truthdealer99]

@@DavidPozEnergy Good morning Mr. David Poz. Thank you for your prompt and professional reply. Im both humbled and grateful 🙏. I have a few additional questions. Do you have an email address and or a website? I need to further communicate with you; of course I am willing to compensate you for your time sir.

[@4Fatherplus]

Interesting. Thanks.

[@fasteddie8762]

I have seen people doing demos on how to dense pack walls, and I'm just wondering... could I do it by inserting the hose near the top of the cavity, pushing it all the way down, and fill until the machine labors some, and pull the hose out a little at a time? Wouldn't that method dense pack pretty well?... Unless I am missing something.... ? I'm curios as I've seen just about every other scenario shown except the one I'm asking about... Good vid...

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Ben is using equipment listed as 48 volt nominal. However, his battery is a 16s lithium. Ben usually is operating at 56v-64v. 64 volts is the max his MPP PIP operates at, but is still considered a nominal 48 volt system. Thanks for watching.

[@fotobocian]

Dzięki wielkie za film :)

[@av1204]

did you use a different blower to get it at 4lbs? I am doing a pole barn home. We plan on doing 2 inches of spray foam and then fill 6.5 inch cavity with this. I like this idea better than batts because batts would leave gaps.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Yes, I upgraded to an 11 amp blower.

[@Faruk651]

I don't understad dense packing? Isn't this stuff stuff supposed to be fluffy to do it's thing? Why does the attics get loose fill and wall cavities get dense pack? Thanks.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

The job of insulation is to trap small pockets of air that don't move around. Both dense-packed, and loose-filled, cellulose has lots of small air pockets and is very good at insulating. We dense-pack walls in order to keep the insulation in place. If the wall is too loose, then over time it can settle leaving a void at the top of the wall cavity. This void looses heat fast. In an attic, a little settling is still OK, because the cellulose remains in contact with the rooms below. There is no void left. You can dense-pack an attic too, but it's not necessary. Dense-packing takes more time and material, thus costs more.

[@Faruk651]

@@DavidPozEnergy I actually got to your video because of the diy cellulose job i did on my new build house. 24'x35' no valleys etc, plain simple shed roof. I didn't read any instructions to operate the machine. So i did the blowing with a fully open gate and 50 feet of hose. The machine was a Krendl model 425 from homedepot rental. Anyways i had to buy extra bags to get avarage of 20" height. My calculation was 70-75 bags, ended up using 100 bags (25 lbs). Will this mistake affect the R value or performance? Do i still get the rated R value at 20" or is it less because because insulation wasn't broken up properly. Thanks.

[@Faruk651]

Also is there anyway to improve after job is complete? Going up in the attic with a weed wacker or mixer to fluff it up more :)

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I wouldn't worry about it. Using more bags isn't a bad thing. You can send me some pictures through FB if you want, but you are probably good. You may want to check out another one of my cellulose videos for context. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWnKaoSVlMR2gJIsi=DCUgKHBJ2mzlM8B7

[@Faruk651]

@@DavidPozEnergy I’d like to send you pictures and get your opinion. Yes, using more sounds good but I am more worried about the science of breaking up the insulation. Is there a way to tell if the insulation is broken up acceptable or not? Like getting a bucket full of sample and looking at it. I am happy with coverage even tho i had to pay extra $500. But i want to know the insulation will perform as it is supposed.

[@lesliebonoko1474]

Good morning. My name is leslie bonoko l am based in south Africa and would like to purchase the blowers from you. Thank you

[@rooseveltbear8167]

How would you recommend doing a crawl space underneath a none basement house . The let's say 30 foot by 40 foot . At a measurement between the dirt and floor panel 13 in. It's like a cottage style house old and we need to find the best way to insulat the crawl space because the cold is pushing up throw I'll bet it 40 degrees . No one can fit between the dirt and floor plus there is no entry way . What would you suggest? A professional and if we diy what type of insulation and what kind of machine? Lowes has it , if you but the insulation the machine is free no charge . What would you do ? Thanks so much the video was very informative.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I'll make a few assumptions because I don't have all the information... I'll assume this is a year-round residence, and there is in-door plumbing. I also assume you have poured concrete stem-walls. When that's the case I suggest insulating the stem-walls and dirt. No not install any insulation between the floor joists. I have personally worked on homes without enough space to fit a human between the joists and dirt. In those situations I cut open the floor for access somewhere in the house, usually a front-hall closet. Then I shovel out the dirt one bucket full at a time. Yeah, it sucks, but I get it done. After that I'm insulating the walls with typically 4 inches of XPS, the dirt with 2 inches of XPS. I cut the XPS into 2'x4' pieces. The hole I make has to be big enough for that. Also, Dense-pack cellulose into the rim joist cavity (assuming platform frame with wood joists) After insulating I install a thick membrane and tape seams. These are smaller than ideal R-values, but something doable in retrofit.

[@rooseveltbear8167]

@@DavidPozEnergy , thanks David for such a fast response. I'm not doing the work the land lords want it done and we need it don't beca6the cold from the floor is causing or k1 heater to run none stop . I figure if I cut between the floor joic about another every 6 foot he will be able to get the insulation in and it's the easiest option at this point . The floor sometime later will have carpet put down . Put they want the blow in insulation. I have a stud finder so the cut in the floor no problem and I'll just cut answer screen 2×4 on each joic to nail the square foot piece I take out. It's already winter and about 18 out so everything outside is frozen with a foot of snow on it lol. I pack snow around the footer . It's a 1963 converted small barn an back then in upstate ny well chazy to be point in . Everyone used wood and when you burn a wood stove it will heat you out lol I wish I had one now. The landlords are going to do the insulation the 1st week of December. We are broke and I'm outta work because I just got diagnosed with two brain diseases. They don't know if it's ms or als . So we are being helped by the state and can't afford the heating fuel . We get a grant but only so much and I feel guilty because others could be using it but I have a two year old daughter who won't keep her slippers on . Well thank you and I love the channel. Someday I want to go fully off grid , solar anyth6and everything I can . I'm a welder and heavy equipment operator by trade plus I love wood working . My dad and uncles thought me alot . Thanks David again

[@rooseveltbear8167]

@@DavidPozEnergy plus it's very floor in the house that's 35-40 degrees. I have a Lazer temp reader

[@LaserFur]

Someone needs to make a machine that can blow both fiberglass and cellulose insulation at the same time. fiberglass looses R value when the temperatures get below -40 due to thermal piping and cellulose insulation suffers from settling when you are trying to get over a R60. layering and mixing is the way to go, but it's a lot of work to do by hand.

[@meblake7359]

Is it possible to use a high powered leaf blower/vac (Toro 51216) to blow in dense pack cellulose?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Yes. Now for the longer answer... Back in the 60's and 70's when cellulose was first introduced to the market it was installed with just a blower, hose, and maybe a trash can used as a hopper. There were no air locks, feed gates, or agitators. So if you want to install your own cellulose using just a blower and hose you could. The downsides are several. First, all the cellulose is going to move through the blower fins themselves, which will very quickly destroy the fins and probably burn up the motor. Second, without an agitator breaking apart the bags of cellulose you will have to do it manually. So you will need to open a bag of cellulose which comes dense from the factory. Then scoop out a chunk of cellulose by hand, and roll the chunk between two hands while holding it over the trash can so that it fully breaks apart. This has to be completely loose without any chunks. Even a tiny chunk the size of a golf ball will jam up the fins of the blower. Third, to suck the cellulose into the blower you will want a short section of hose, maybe 6 feet long. This will need to be held slightly over the top of the cellulose in the trash can by someone so the blower will suck mostly air, and some cellulose. If the operator gets the end of the hose too close then the blower will bog down with too much cellulose to air ratio. So I don't recommend this, just rent a cellulose blowing machine. But if you do try it please upload a video and share. I'd love to see it. Thanks for watching.

[@meblake7359]

Hi David. Thanks for the response. Yes, I knew I would have to manually break it up finely, but didn't know about the air gap needed. I haven't found a rental place that rents the force 2 or anything similar in the Milwaukee, WI area. Home depot only has an Atticat and a standard blower. If I do try the leaf blower method, I will send you a video. Thanks again.

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Try contacting these guys. I know they rent powerful machines, but I don't know if they are outside New England or not. If they are not in your area they might know someone. www.accu1.com/blowing-machine-vacuum-rentals-s/88.htm

[@meblake7359]

Thanks for the link, but if I had to pay rental costs that high, I would just buy a Force 2 machine. I was hoping to get free use of the machine with the purchase of the insulation.

[@meblake7359]

Hi David, I found this Worx Trivac blower mulcher that has a metal blade. It looks easy enuf to attach hoses. 12 amp and 350 cfm. www.amazon.com/Worx-WG509-Electric-Multi-Stage-Mulching/dp/B00MN4YCKK If I were to put some kind of filter between the blower blade and the motor to keep the dust out, do you think that would keep the motor from burning out?

[@truedox]

Is it possible to do fill up cinder block walls with this?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

It's physically possible, but not a good idea.

[@takadesigns]

David, you said your tiger flex hose has a 1 1/4” ID. What size hose reducer do you need to connect to the tiger flex hose so it fits snug inside the hose reducer?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I used to do this full-time and bought reducers from National Fiber. But they are out of business now. The reducers are sold for mufflers, exhaust systems. Probably you can find what you need here: www.summitracing.com/search/department/exhaust/section/exhaust-pipes-flanges-and-turndowns/part-type/exhaust-pipe-adapters-and-reducers?N=part-type%3Aexhaust-pipe-adapters-and-reducers&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

[@business_agility]

Hi David, quick one: I live in Buenos Aires, Argentina. I am trying to insulate my cavity walls (25cm wide with with 5 cm air space inside) I was thinking of using cellulose but not sure if 5 cm will be wide enough for a nice insulation. Plus in the corners of the house there are columns which I am sure will not allow a continuous envelope and thus impossible to eliminate the thermal bridge, right?...any ideas? love your videos! thanks for sharing!

[@DavidPozEnergy]

You could use a hose with an outside diameter of 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) and get it in there but it will be extremely slow and the tiny hose will clog up often. If your wall is: Masonry outside, 5 cm space, then an interior finish board such as plasterboard, then I would not fill that with cellulose. Typically in masonry walls they need that drying potential to both sides. I'm speaking in very broad terms as I don't know your exact wall. The masonry walls I've worked on we will either add a ridged insulation board to the outside and render; or we remove the interior plasterboard and furring strips, add dimple membrane to the backside of the masonry, frame out the cavity deeper, and insulate that new cavity.

[@business_agility]

@@DavidPozEnergy Thanks for the quick response. outside wall is a nice looking red brick and on the inside a cheaper brick so unfortunately I cant remove the inside wall. I might have to do something on the inside (outside looks too nice to cover) like still framing and then insulation. We'll see. take care and thanks for the time!

[@whatthefunction9140]

would this work for wood chips?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

No, and wood chips would ruin the machine pretty quick. Thanks for watching.

[@williamjewell9574]

No, wood chips harm the airlock Bill Jewell INTEC

[@JarvisElian]

Can this machine do wet installs?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

No, only dry cellulose. Thanks for watching.

[@mefirst4266]

DOES INSULATING YOUR YARD KEEP THE HEAT DOWN IN THE SUMMER AND COLD OUT IN THE WINTER ?????????? DAMN I DID NOT KNOW THAT . . THANK GOD AND AMERICA FOR KZbin. P.S. HOW MANY INCHES DO I NEED IN MY YARD IN NORTHERN CALIFONIA............. ITS A GREAT IDEA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I'm sorry if I wasn't clear in the video. This machine is for blowing insulation into the walls/attic of your home. I simply wanted to demonstrate the blower outside so we could see it. There is no need to insulate your yard.

[@jskweres2]

Will fiberglass insulation work in this?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

Not as well. Fiberglass tends to have longer fibers.

[@jskweres2]

@@DavidPozEnergy thanks so much. If I already bought fiberglass should I keep the shoot opening smaller to prevent clogging?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

That's a good call on the gate. You'll get a feel for the right air to gate ratio in the first 20 minutes. Don't worry, if it clogs you clear it and make an adjustment.

[@Bugkiller666]

Mention Static and PVC pipe ... not nice at al !!

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I agree, on a dry day I would wear gloves to help with static.

[@CCCC-tq8yo]

Looks like it's snowing lol

[@dharmendersharma7926]

Hii

[@dharmendersharma7926]

We buy this product

[@ivankostin572]

Very annoying dude